One of the most difficult jobs when renovating a home, as recognized by both craftsmen and amateurs, is bringing the ceiling into proper shape. Unevenness of tile floors, mismatch of angles, different level ceiling etc. It is sometimes very difficult to eliminate all these defects. And it’s not only difficult, but also expensive, for example, using stretch ceiling technology.
In this article we will look at the technology of plasterboard suspended ceilings. Its advantages are obvious: the low cost of a plasterboard suspended ceiling, ease of installation and relatively short time spent on its arrangement. At the same time, the technology is quite simple, and you can do the installation yourself. Let's look at how?
Tools and materials
Having decided to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to make preparatory work, namely: stock up on the necessary tools and purchase all the necessary building materials. Let's look at them in order.
To install a plasterboard suspended ceiling, we need the following tool:
- a water level, we need it to accurately mark the installation location of the guide profile (due to its low cost, our choice fell on it; if financial capabilities allow, you can also acquire a household laser level, its price is on average 50 USD);
- a two-meter level to determine the evenness of the installation of drywall sheets;
- hammer drill - for drilling holes for profile fastening dowels;
- drill or screwdriver - fastening the profile and gypsum board;
- a five-meter tape measure, a mechanic's knife with a set of blades, a pencil for marking;
- “grinder” with a circle for metal or hand saw, good metal scissors.
Having collected the necessary tools, let's look at what building materials we need to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling structure:
- Profile. It is of two types: guide (attached along the perimeter of the area, its function is reflected in the name itself) and ceiling (C-shaped). The brand and shape are not particularly important; it is only necessary that both profiles be from the same manufacturer. How much is needed? The guide profile is calculated along the perimeter of the room. For example, the total area is 20 m2, the length of the walls is 5 and 4 meters, respectively. The length of the profile is 3 and 4 m, respectively, for a three-meter profile we will need 7 pieces + 1 reserve, just in case it gets damaged. For this example you can take a 4 meter one, we will need 5 pieces of it, i.e. the perimeter is divided by the length of the profile. If the ceiling is two-level or has an intricate design, then we add the length of the additional structure to the above figures. The C-shaped profile is calculated as follows, since the plasterboard sheet has a width of 1250 mm, ideally it is fastened in increments of 600 mm. Thus, for our example, it is better to take a 4-meter one (there will be less waste), divide a five-meter wall by 60cm and get 8 ceiling profiles. We have given the calculation principle for each room and complex design the suspended ceiling is identical, it is only important to add additional length to the structure.
- Drywall. There are three types: regular, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant. IN ordinary apartment, if this is not a bathroom, a regular sheet will do, it makes no sense to overpay. To install the ceiling, there is also no need to take plasterboard higher than 8 - 10 mm in thickness. The weight of the structure will increase, but there is no practical benefit for the ceiling. And during installation, this increases the complexity of the work, since the weight of the sheets increases. The amount of drywall can be calculated using the following formula: divide the ceiling area by the area of one gypsum board and get the amount we need. The area of a standard sheet is, if rounded, 3m2. If we divide the area of the room from our example by 3, then we get 6.6 sheets, i.e. 7. We recommend taking a small supply just in case; one sheet of supply will be enough.
- Fastening. We will need a direct suspension, it is not expensive, so we don’t have to count exact quantity pieces, for an area of 20 m2 with a simple one-level design we will need about 40 - 50 pieces. If the design of the suspended ceiling is complex and you are going to use sheets with a large thickness, you will need a larger amount of suspension. Depending on the design, you will have to calculate the quantity yourself, taking into account the distance between them of 600 - 700 mm. If your design does not provide for a large number of ceiling profile connections, you can do without “crabs”; such connections can also be mounted using direct hangers. If you don’t like this idea, you can purchase longitudinal connectors in quantities equal to the intended profile connections. You will need dowels for attaching the guide profile and suspension; usually dowels with dimensions of 8x10 are sufficient. You will also need a pack of self-tapping screws to connect the profile. In addition, stock up on self-tapping screws 25 mm long for attaching drywall sheets to the profile.
When everything is assembled, you can begin installing the frame.
Frame installation
To mark the installation location of the guide profile, use a water level. Having achieved the same water level in the containers on opposite walls, we apply marks. How much to retreat from the ceiling is up to you, but for ease of installation of the entire structure, especially when laying thermal insulation wool and/or spotlights, retreat at least 10 cm. Having made markings on all four walls, we proceed to drilling holes for dowels using a hammer drill. We attach the guide profile to the wall at intervals of 30 - 40 cm, in the corners at a distance of 10 - 15 cm.
After installing the guide profile along the perimeter, using a tape measure, we make marks on the wall at intervals of 60cm. Thus, we mark the installation locations of the ceiling profile. For a simple single-level design, we do not need to install C-shaped profiles in two directions, i.e. We mark on two opposite walls.
After this, we proceed to attach the suspension to the surface of the ceiling. For convenience, focus on a distance between them of 60 - 70 cm; for example, it will be easier to lay insulating wool. But if there is a difference of a couple of centimeters, the tragedy will not happen.
After installing all the direct hangers, we begin to install the ceiling profile itself.
In our example, this is very simple, since the length of the wall is 4 m and the length of the profile is 4 m, we do not have to join it. If this is not suitable for your version, then install two additional suspensions to the ceiling at the joints of the profile, and using the suspension itself or a longitudinal connector, as you prefer, we screw them together with self-tapping screws. Using a drill or screwdriver, we connect all the joining points of the ceiling profile with the guide, as well as the suspensions with the C-shaped profile.
One important nuance when twisting a suspension with ceiling profiles: using a 2-meter level, make sure that the profile is attached evenly, without bending or sagging. If you do not keep an eye on this, then after installing the gypsum board you may find that the newly installed ceiling surface has a wavy nature.
After connecting everyone metal elements frame, use a level to make sure that the surface of the profile is even, place the level in different directions along the ceiling profile. If there are deviations, correct them.
So, the frame of the plasterboard suspended ceiling is ready, then we conduct wiring to the places of the lamp/s and, if desired, lay thermal insulation wool. After this, our structure is ready to accept drywall sheets
Sheathing with plasterboard sheets and putty
Let's start installing the drywall sheets. There is nothing complicated in the fastening itself; we lift the sheet to the profile and fasten it using self-tapping screws. An interval of 10 - 15 cm between screws will be sufficient. We “sew” along the perimeter and in the center, and our center is a notch on the wall. When joining sheets of drywall, it is necessary to monitor the ends at the joints. As you can see, the sheets themselves have rounded ends, this is done so that there are no putty cracks at the joints, where the layer will be thicker. So, when joining entire sheets or pieces, it is necessary to use a knife to also create a small depression at the edges where there is none.
You should also pay attention to the heads of the screws; they should be “recessed” into the gypsum board by about 1 mm. If they protrude, press gently; this will make it much easier to putty the ceiling when the work is completed.
In the places where lamps or any other communications are installed, use a knife to cut out all the necessary holes. For these works, you can also purchase a special attachment for a hammer drill or drill, whatever you like.
If the sheets of drywall are fitted tightly to one another, the joints are “trimmed” and all the necessary holes are cut out, you can begin to putty the surface. For this except gypsum plaster You will need a special adhesive mesh to process the joints of the gypsum boards. If everything is available, we proceed to putty. And we start from the joints. Let them dry a little and you can putty the entire surface of the ceiling with finishing plaster.
Let it dry for a day or two, take 100/120 sandpaper, a lamp to illuminate the side of the unevenness and make a flat and smooth surface. After this, your ceiling is ready for any type of decoration.
We looked at the installation of a simple single-level plasterboard suspended ceiling. And if you have not installed such a ceiling yourself, we strongly recommend starting with something simple. When you gain experience in such work and know the nuances of such a design, you can already assemble the next two-level ceiling. And not only that, you will be able to model and think about the design yourself, since you will understand the main part of the structure of a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard.
Below are drawings of suspended plasterboard ceilings, possible options
Possible decoration methods
In fact, it is very difficult to describe decorating methods. The first thing is that, as they say, there are no comrades for taste and color. And secondly, the modern construction industry produces such a huge amount of all kinds of decorative, and not only, materials that the volume of the article simply does not allow us to consider them. Here everything will depend on your tastes, desires and financial capabilities. Some people like to decorate the surface using plaster casting, for some it is enough to use foam baguettes in decoration. Some will apply a design to the ceiling, while others will simply hang wallpaper and replace the chandelier.
In fact, don’t pay attention to all sorts of “fashionable” trends and other nonsense. You live in this room, so think about what kind of ceiling will give you comfort and joy. Once you understand what you want and you can afford it, go to the nearest hypermarket building materials and take what will make your idea come true, do it for yourself.
There is nothing very complicated in the technology of plasterboard suspended ceilings, it is only important to remember folk wisdom: “Measure seven times and cut once.” And everything will work out for you, believe me.
Installation of suspended ceiling made of plasterboard video
In this article we will try to explain in detail how cladding is performed. Having carefully familiarized yourself with this material, you can easily assemble any structure from plasterboard slabs.
Introduction
First, you need to find out what elements the pendant consists of. Like any building structure, plasterboard ceiling consists of a base - a frame and a cladding (or filler) - a plasterboard gypsum board.
The frame is made of galvanized profile different sizes and sections. The design is very light and practically does not exert any special pressure on the floor slabs.
Below is a list of components and materials for a suspended plasterboard ceiling:
- Plasterboard ceiling sheets
- Wall guide profile UD-27
- Ceiling bearing profile CD-60
- Straight U-shaped suspension
- Connector for cross-shaped profile (crab)
- Straight profile connector
- Plastic dowels and self-tapping screws (quick installation 6 x 40 mm is recommended)
- Self-tapping screws for metal with a 12 mm drill (seeds)
- Black 25 mm self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to the frame
Thickness 9.5 mm. They are lightweight and simplify the process of assembling the entire ceiling structure. To putty the ceiling you will need the following materials:
- Self-adhesive mesh (serpyanka) for gypsum board joints 50 mm wide
- Primer (any liquid will do)
- Finishing gypsum putty
- Putty for joints (you can use Fugenfüller or something similar)
- Grinding mesh
- Fine-grained sandpaper (zero)
Undoubtedly, the question naturally arises of how to accurately calculate the quantity of each structural element and finishing materials. To do this, use the method presented below.
Calculation of materials for plasterboard ceilings
There are simple rules for calculating materials:
The quantity of the UD-27 profile guide is equal to the perimeter of the room (add the length of all 4 walls)
The supporting profile is mounted on plasterboard in next order: the first and last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the remaining profiles is 600 mm (possibly less). The remaining profiles are attached to the ceiling at intervals of 600 mm. The number of TsD-60 profile is equal to the number of rows multiplied by the length of the room
The TsD-60 bearing profile is suspended on U-shaped hangers with a pitch of 1 m. Between the supporting profiles, jumpers from the TsD-60 profile are installed in increments of 0.6 m. A cross-shaped connector (crab) is used for connection.
The number of plasterboard boards is equal to the area (to do this, you need to multiply the width of the room by its length). When calculating, add 5% to the resulting figure. This is necessary to compensate for material consumption when trimming
Important to know! To make accurate calculations, it is recommended to draw a floor plan (top view). Mark on it all the dimensions (length, width, level of the future ceiling), the axes of the location of the supporting profiles, the attachment points of the U-shaped suspensions, the location of the crabs and lintels.
To finish a plasterboard ceiling, gypsum putties and deep penetration primers are used. Important to know! To ensure that cracks do not appear at the joints of gypsum board slabs, the joints are reinforced with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh and puttyed with a special putty for joints.
The consumption of gypsum putty from different manufacturers is approximately the same. It is 0.46 kg per 1 square meter of ceiling with a layer thickness of 1 mm. A primer is pre-primed. Consumption liquid primer about 200 – 300 grams per 1 sq.m.
Expensive tools can be rented at a specialized construction tools store. Every home craftsman will probably have everything else.
Before hemming the ceiling with plasterboard using water or laser level Mark a horizontal plane on the walls. The minimum height at which the ceiling is hemmed with plasterboard is 3 cm. If built-in spotlights, then the ceiling level is lowered by 10 or 12 cm depending on the size of the lighting fixture.
If only a chandelier is used, then the plasterboard ceiling frame can be lowered to the thickness of the CD-60 ceiling support profile. At the place where it is attached, an embedded plywood piece 40 x 40 cm and 10 mm thick is mounted to the existing ceiling.
The marks on the walls along the perimeter are connected using painting and dyeing thread. On the ceiling, axes are also marked for attaching direct hangers and load-bearing profiles.
Installation of the guide profile
Along the marked line along the perimeter in increments of 35 - 40 cm, the UD-27 guide profile is fastened using dowel-nails for quick installation. This operation is performed using a concrete drill bit with a diameter of 6 mm and a hammer.
Direct hangers are attached along the lines on the ceiling with a pitch of 600 mm using dowels and self-tapping screws. Their perforated ends are lowered at an angle of 90 degrees.
The profile has a length of 3 or 4 m, so if necessary, they are joined using a straight connector. Sometimes it is made from the same supporting profile.
The profile is attached to the U-hanger mustache with galvanized 12 mm self-tapping screws, two on each side. This is done with a screwdriver.
Installation of crabs and fastening of crossbars
Crabs are attached to the supporting profiles at 600 mm intervals. Between the parallel profiles, jumpers are mounted to the crabs. For this purpose, sections from the same supporting profile are used. They are connected between the crabs and the guide profiles with 12 mm self-tapping screws.
Finishing the ceiling in most cases is associated with many doubts. Wide range of materials and colors, diversity design solutions– all this does not in any way contribute to making it easy to choose something specific.
Why drywall?
| Type of drywall (brand) | Scope of application | Leaf color | Marking color |
|---|---|---|---|
| Regular (gypsum plasterboard) | Finishing walls and ceilings; construction of non-load-bearing partitions | Grey | Blue |
| Moisture resistant (GKLV) | Finishing walls and ceilings of kitchens, bathrooms; construction of partitions in rooms with high humidity | Green | Blue |
| Fire resistant (GKLO) | Finishing of air ducts and communication shafts; finishing metal structures in civil buildings | Grey | Red |
| Moisture-resistant (GKLVO) | Finishing of structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet rooms (kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.) | Green | Red |
Among the variety of finishing materials, experts advise choosing plasterboard. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments, has recently acquired such qualities as resistance to moisture and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:
The popularity of the material is due to numerous advantages, including:
- no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
- low cost;
- ease of processing and installation;
- wide range of applications;
- low maintenance (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth every few months).
But there are also disadvantages:
- lack of elasticity (in which plasterboard is inferior to PVC film);
- susceptibility to moisture (if the material is not moisture resistant);
- flammability (if not fire-resistant, respectively).
Prices for drywall and sheet materials
Drywall and sheet materials
Stage 1. Drafting
To work you will need a project. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get a ready-made diagram and the required volumes consumables. If you do everything the old fashioned way, you will have to spend much more time and effort.
Step 1. Using a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the room dimensions are, for example, 5x4 m):
(5 + 4) x 2 = 18 m (P)
It turns out that the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the obtained data is displayed on graph paper.
Pay attention! If the lengths of opposite walls are different (this happens quite often), then a larger figure is taken for calculations.
Step 2. After this you need to start calculating the frame profile. The work will use 6x2.7 cm profiles - they will be fixed in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (400 cm) must be divided by the pitch (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66 (the amount is rounded to 7.0).
The first and last slats are attached 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the rest - according to the above step.
Pay attention! The step of 60 cm was not chosen by chance. The fact is that the standard width of plasterboard sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.
The mounting locations for the slats are transferred to the project.
400/60 x 7 = 47 pieces.
The first and last suspension is attached 30 cm from the surface of the walls. The attachment points are indicated in the diagram by crosses. We also note that it is preferable to use spring hangers, while straight ones are acceptable only in two cases:
- with a completely flat ceiling surface;
- with a structure height of more than 12 cm.
Step 4. After this, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will add rigidity to the structure.
((400/60) – 1) x 7 = 40 pieces.
Step 5. All that remains is to determine required quantity self-tapping screws and plasterboard sheets. Given the known area of the room (20 m²) and the sheet (3 m²), this is quite easy to do - you will need almost five sheets of material.
There shouldn’t be any difficulties with self-tapping screws either:
- “thirtieth” self-tapping screws will be used to fix the drywall (step length – 25 cm);
- 60x6 products will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
- LN11 screws will be used for fittings: 4 pcs for crabs and profiles, 2 pcs for hangers and profiles.
You also need to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the electrical wiring.
Stage 2. Preparing equipment and consumables
Of course, the list necessary tools Each master has his own, because in this matter a lot depends on dexterity and the ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely that the work will be completed successfully:
Pay attention! Depending on the characteristics of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with clamps for joining profiles located at different heights (if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.
Stage 3. Guide frame
After preparing everything you need, you can start working.
Step 1. First, use a tape measure to determine the lowest corner of the room. It is marked with:
- 5 cm from the ceiling, if you do not plan to install built-in lighting fixtures;
- 9 cm, if planned.
Step 2. Using a level, mark the same height in the remaining corners. After this, several more marks are placed along each wall at the height of the first point; all marks are connected to each other with a pencil, using a stretched cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to mark these lines pointwise.
Step 3. A guide profile is attached to the walls. If connecting seams are planned between the corners (and in large rooms there is no way without this), then it is necessary to further strengthen the structure in order to avoid the elements “driving apart” under its weight. Any dense material is suitable for this - tin, plastic or plywood - which must be placed over each seam and secured to the wall with strong dowels.
Pay attention! A special sealing tape (“serpyanka”) is more suitable for this, but it is not sold in all stores. construction stores.
After this, the corner joints of the profile are strengthened.
Stage 4. Main ceiling profile
Step 1. As noted above, most often the plasterboard sheets have dimensions of 120 x 250 cm, which is why it is advisable to fasten the ceiling profiles in increments of 40 cm - this way each sheet will be fastened at the edges and twice in the middle.
The ceiling is marked with parallel lines in forty-centimeter increments.
Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, at the transverse joints) jumpers from the same profile are attached. Of course, if the sheet sizes are different, then the distance is determined individually. “crabs” are installed at the joints.
Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the hangers. The first of them is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent ones - in increments of 50 cm. Anchors are used to attach the suspensions (ordinary dowels will not work, because they do not have threads, and the structure can be “pulled out” from the ceiling under the influence of gravity).
Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to the suspensions. You need to start from the corners of the room. That's it, the frame for the suspended ceiling is ready.
Stage 5. Thermal insulation
If desired, the suspended ceiling can be insulated using a special fastening system, which is popularly called a “fungus”.
Prices for popular types of insulation
Insulation
Stage 6. Installation of plasterboard sheets
First we need to understand a number of important nuances: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and also to deformation. Therefore, the material must be stored exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, it must be moved to the room where the repairs are being carried out so that it can rest. This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.
Further actions must be carried out according to the instructions.
Step 1. First, material for those places where less than a whole sheet is needed.
Step 2. The chamfer on the edge is removed using a mounting knife - this will provide more deep penetration putty material in the crack.
Step 3. Fastening the drywall begins from one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.
Pay attention! The screw heads must be recessed. It is also important that the screws on “adjacent” sheets are not located opposite each other, but at random.
Step 4. The following sheets are installed. There remains a small gap around the perimeter (approximately 2 mm); the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. You need to make sure that each sheet is attached both in the center and at the edges.
Video - Installing a suspended ceiling
Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling
Particular attention is paid to seams, since the aesthetics of the future structure directly depends on the quality of their sealing.
Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a result, absorb the putty better. After this, you need to wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dry.
Step 2. Putty is applied to the screw heads and seams between the sheets. To do this, you need to use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.
It must be special, intended for seams (this point needs to be clarified in a hardware store or in the manufacturer’s instructions).
Step 3. When the seams are completely dry, they should be taped with seam tape. It is typical that the joints are sealed with an overlap. The tape is treated with putty, and all detected cracks are sealed at the same time.
Step 4. After drying the drywall with your own hands, do not forget about the means personal protection. Use goggles and a respirator - they will keep you healthy.
Operating rules
- The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the plasterboard used. The average indoor humidity is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
- To increase the service life of the suspended ceiling, you should clean the surface on time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the second case, you need to add a small amount of cleaning agent to the water).
- Application abrasive materials strictly prohibited!
- To ensure that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the temperature in the room, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-tight material is laid (even if insulation was previously laid).
- Pencil stains can be removed using a regular eraser.
- The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for which a gap of approximately 2 mm must be left around the perimeter.
As you can see, installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple, but only if you have the appropriate tools and detailed instructions.
Today we will show you how to install the simplest single-level ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. It is also often called differently suspended ceiling. We will consider in detail the advantages and disadvantages of drywall, what is needed for its installation, marking the ceiling, the procedure for installing the frame and its cladding, how and how to seal the joints of plasterboard sheets, and also how to avoid the appearance of cracks. Let's go!
Pros and cons of plasterboard as a material for finishing the ceiling before plastering
Main advantages of the material:
- Drywall allows you to level surfaces of any curvature, while the maximum layer of plaster on ceilings cannot exceed 15 mm;
- Civil Code allows you to easily hide (or at least disguise) existing communications and structures: wires, pipes, beams;
- A plasterboard ceiling allows you to realize almost any of your fantasies in terms of lighting arrangement;
- Design: countless shapes, two, three levels, niches for lighting;
- Relative lightness of construction;
- Possibility of using heat and sound insulation;
- No “wet” processes during installation - no need to wait several days for the surface to dry.
Disadvantages of drywall:
- A serious reduction in the height of the room (depending on the curvature of the original ceiling and the possible need to install recessed lamps) by at least 5 cm;
- The relative complexity of installation and the need for tools such as a hammer drill and a screwdriver (read how to choose a screwdriver);
- The potential for cracks to appear at the joints of sheets in the future (we will look at how to avoid this);
- Need a partner's help.
Knowing all the pros and cons of drywall, it is impossible to definitely recommend it or not recommend it. Everything follows from the analysis of a specific room, but in most cases, its use is still preferable.
In this article we will look at the most common method of installing a suspended ceiling with your own hands - in one level on direct hangers.
Tools and accessories
Necessary accessories for installing a plasterboard ceiling:
- Guide profiles PN 28×27 mm.
- Ceiling profiles PP 60×27 mm.
- Sealing tape.
- Anchor wedges.
- “Dowel-nails” (ordinary dowels and screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than the heads of the screws - 8 mm, and there is more fuss with them).
- Cord release device.
- Hydro level / laser plane builder.
- Bubble building level 2 m.
- Aluminum rule 2.5 m.
- Drywall sheets.
- Putty for joints GK (Uniflot).
- Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka).
- Roulette.
- Hammer.
- A stationery knife (or a special knife for cutting HA).
- Hammer + drill.
- Screwdriver.
- Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent pitch).
- Self-tapping screws with press washer.
- Acrylic primer.
- Single-level connectors CRAB.
- Metal scissors.
- Heat and sound insulation materials (if required).
- Profile extensions (if required).
- Set of spatulas (narrow, wide and for corners).
In the picture, all accessories are in order:
It should be noted right away that much of what is now sold in construction stores under the guise of profiles and hangers is just foil. We suggest choosing Knauf products - you can find out their profiles and sheets by the corresponding stamp.
A few words about the hydraulic level. It consists of two small flasks with water connected to each other by a thin tube. The principle of its operation is based on the law of physics about communicating vessels, which makes horizontal marking with its help extremely accurate. When installing a ceiling, you can’t do without it (unless, of course, you have a laser level), because marking the entire perimeter of the room with a bubble level is not a quick or easy task.
With a hydraulic level, we will only need to mark the corners, and then connect them using a “breaker” (this is the simple name for a cord breaker). There are many types of drywall sheets. You and I only need to know two: regular and moisture-resistant. It is unnecessary to say anything additional about the first type, but the second is used in rooms with high humidity, that is, in kitchens and bathrooms due to reduced moisture absorption achieved through the use of hydrophobic additives in plaster. It is very simple to distinguish these two species from each other - by color. Regular drywall has the color of simple cardboard - gray. Moisture-resistant sheets have a greenish color. For ceilings, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are most often used.
Now about the sealing tape. It is self-adhesive, made of porous polymer material, width - from 30 mm. Necessary for tight coupling of frame elements with load-bearing structures, it also improves the acoustic properties of our ceiling. In addition, it is believed that it plays a significant role in protecting against cracks, allowing the structure to expand/contract slightly.
Marking, fastening guides
First we need to determine the lowest corner of the room. We take a tape measure and measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling in each corner, it is advisable to do this in the center of the room, just in case - you never know, the ceiling might sag. We found the lowest angle, retreated 5 cm (if recessed lamps are not planned) or 8 cm (if planned), and put a mark. From this mark, using a hydraulic level, set the horizontal line to all other corners. Now all that remains is to connect the marks with a beat. Together with an assistant, pull the cord tightly between the marks on one wall, pull it with your free hand and quickly release it. The cord, hitting the wall, will color it - here you have the finished horizontal line. We do the same on all walls. This is what we get: 
It's time to fix the guide profiles on the walls. To do this, first attach one of them to the wall along the line and mark future holes with a marker along the finished holes (if the holes on the profile are located far from the edge, you need to make additional ones with a puncher, stepping back from the edges by 5-10 cm), then set it aside for a while. We drill holes in the marked places. We take the profile again and glue the sealing tape onto it, after which we again apply it to the line and fix it to the wall with dowel nails. There must be at least three attachment points per profile. Here's what you get in the end:
Next, you should mark the axes of the main profiles. But first, let's decide what profiles to call. The main ones will be those profiles that are attached to the base with hangers, and the load-bearing profiles will be those that are attached only to the main ones. It is more logical to place the main profiles across (this makes it less likely that they will have to be built up). The width of the sheet is 1.2 m, the pitch of the profiles should be smaller by an integer number of times. Usually this is 40 cm. Mark:
Important: mark their position (both main and load-bearing) not only on the ceiling, but also on the wall below the horizontal line.
Bearings (with such a pitch of the main ones) are needed only at the transverse joints of the gypsum boards, that is, their “step” is 2.5 m, which means that the pitch of the suspensions should be smaller by an integer number of times. 50 cm suits us, but the first row of hangers will be spaced from the wall not by 50, but by 50/2 = 25 cm, the next row by 25 + 50 = 75 cm, etc.
To mark, take a suspension, apply it to the ceiling in the right points and mark with a marker the locations for the holes for the anchor wedges. For one suspension you need at least two of them.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a suspended ceiling frame with your own hands
We wait for the dust to settle, fill the pockets with anchor wedges and attach the hangers. Don't forget to stick sealing tape on them first. After securing the suspension, carefully pull its ends down; when subsequently attaching the main profiles, they should not bend. 
Now let's start installing the main profiles. If the width of the room is less than 3 meters, we simply cut them to the length of the room minus 1 cm and insert them into the guides. If the room is larger, we lengthen each profile so that the resulting profile is again 1 cm shorter than the room. Moreover, the connections of neighboring ones should not be on the same line! And there should be a suspension near the extension cord. You need to start attaching profiles to the hangers from the corners of the room. Your assistant will need to apply the rule to the guides on the walls forming the corner, using a grip as wide as possible so that the rule does not bend (this is very important!). Thus, it will support our PP, and it will be level with the guides. Your task is at this moment to secure it to the suspension on both sides with four (2 per side) self-tapping screws. It is better to take self-tapping screws with a press washer without a drill. It will take you longer to do, but everything will come out very strong. So, we fastened it near one corner, and we also fasten it near the second. If it is not possible to secure the middle of the profile in this way, you should simply apply a rule from below along it, then we will secure it without any problems. We bend the excess length of the hangers upwards (or pre-cut them, as in the pictures). We control the process with a two-meter level.
Using the same method, we hang the second profile, relying only on the guides for now. Then we move to the opposite wall and install 2 more main PPs. If there are more between these four, we set them up, relying on the ones already fixed. But if the room is very large, we continue to go from the edges to the middle and, as soon as possible, we use the already fixed profiles to display the rest.
You can pull the cord and align it, but the cords tend to sag, and in this case it is much more difficult to hold the profile when vibrating from the screwdriver. Let's look at our result:
Now we hang the CRABs on the places where the profiles will be joined, and fix them with four self-tapping screws, two on each side. If you lower the ceiling slightly, keep in mind that then you will have to insert the CRABs into the main PP BEFORE installing them. In general, make sure the connectors go over the profiles. 
As soon as all the CRABs are in place, we cut the supporting profiles (remember the 1 cm margin) and insert them into them, securing them with four screws, each. Please note that we do NOT attach the carrier to the guide below with a self-tapping screw, but simply insert it. They will be held together when we sew on the sheets. If it is necessary to soundproof the ceiling, they usually use mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles more sizes frame cells and simply pushes into them, additionally clinging to the curved suspensions. That is, roughly speaking, it hangs on a frame. When working with it, use gloves and a respirator - it is extremely unpleasant, but you will be surprised how well it absorbs sound. It will be useful to study the article about soundproofing an apartment with your own hands.
Video: Suspended ceiling made of KNAUF sheets
Installing drywall on the frame
Important: before starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, they must undergo acclimatization in the room - a couple of days, at least. In addition, storage of civil ledger sheets is allowed only in a horizontal position.
Before installation, it is necessary to process the edges of the sheets - use a knife to chamfer them at an angle of 22.5 degrees. to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness (of course, approximately); this applies to the end edges that are not covered with cardboard. The sheets should be fastened from the corner, the recommended pitch of the screws is 17 cm, on adjacent sheets the screws must be screwed apart. We try to maintain a distance of 10 mm from the factory edge of the sheet and 15 mm from the one we cut. The heads should be slightly recessed, but not pierce the cardboard, check by touch. It is very important to sew the sheets apart, at least by the pitch of the main profiles (40.2 cm), and leave a small gap between them (2 mm), by the way, between the sheets and the walls - too . If the self-tapping screw stubbornly does not pierce the frame, throw it away and screw in another one, moving 5 cm away from the hole.
We also attach it to the guide profile. Surely there will be people who believe that this should not be done - they say, so says Knauf technology, for this it was necessary to insert the supporting profiles close to the guides. Indeed, in the materials of this company there is a drawing where there are no screws through the guide profile.
Therefore, for the purity of the experiment, let’s turn to the Giprok materials, and there we see the following: 
The self-tapping screw is in place! But here the other one is missing - the one that should be in the supporting profile! But with Knauf it’s the other way around!
So, we attach the sheets to the PN. Another important detail. Do not allow sheet joints near the outer corner:
This rule also works in the case of multi-level ceilings in the absence of a wall:
The joint must be at least 10 cm away from the corner. Violation of this rule threatens an almost inevitable crack.
Let's summarize what we have done so far. Here is the plan for the main ceiling of our virtual room: 
Now we know all the technology for installing a plasterboard ceiling and can calculate how much material we actually need. According to the drawing, we used: 99 hangers, 8 HA sheets, at least 19 ceiling profiles, 8 guides, at least 24 CRABs.
Sealing seams
Before sealing the seams, they must be primed and wait until the primer is completely dry. When sealing, special, especially strong putties are used. Mix a little, following the instructions on the bag. We fill in all the seams with the first layer: both “ours” and the factory ones (first we fill in the space between the sheet and the wall, then we apply a layer), as well as the recesses from the self-tapping screws. For factory ones you will need a wide spatula. You should especially carefully fill the factory seams near the walls; now the main thing is that the putty does not stick out. 
We are waiting for the putty to set, and this will happen in a matter of minutes (in the case of Uniflot). For high-quality reinforcement of joints, a special paper tape Knauf Fugendeckstreifen Kurt. At the factory edges, the tape is laid in a layer of Uniflot, after which it is covered with it. You can also use Uniflot on cut edges, or you can glue the tape on PVA so that it doesn’t stick out so much. If you are gluing on Uniflot, first moisten the tape in water, otherwise it may turn out that you will not be able to remove a certain amount of putty from under the tape, and you will get a bump. And if the tape is wet, the putty will glide over it well. We recommend using a special spatula on the corners - everything will work out faster and better with it. The Kurt tape has a fold line in the center, especially for ease of gluing on internal corners. On seams with cut edges, the tape will give small protrusions, but that’s okay - this can be corrected by subsequent puttying of the entire surface.
Ready. We have a surface ready for subsequent puttying. We have minimized the possibility of cracks appearing on the plasterboard ceiling, but to completely eliminate this possibility we use. It is glued to the entire area, which has already been previously plastered, puttyed again and painted. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, yes, the price is high. But the ceiling is guaranteed not to crack.
That's basically all. Now we can make a plasterboard ceiling at home with our own hands.
To properly make a ceiling from plasterboard sheets with your own hands, you will first need to prepare tools and materials. In addition, it is important to clearly imagine how the sheathing of profiles will be located, and how to prepare sheets and pieces of drywall for it, which will make up a solid structure.
To install the ceiling correctly and quickly, you will need the following tools:
- level (water/laser);
- screwdriver/drill (choose a drill with a hammer drill and attachments for making holes, mixing the solution and drilling);
- roulette;
- sandpaper;
- construction knife for cutting sheets;
- spatula for applying putty.
For quality work, you still need to choose the right facing material.
This role is played by plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 9.5 to 12.5 mm. If you are going to make a suspended ceiling in the bathroom or kitchen, then give preference to material marked “moisture resistant”.
As for fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard, this material is practically not used for residential buildings/apartments, since it is not cheap and it makes no sense to use it in an ordinary apartment.
Besides facing material you will have to purchase:
- profile marked UD-27 (guide);
- profile marked CD-60 (ceiling);
- direct suspension (it is not necessary to purchase, you can make it yourself from a profile);
- connectors for planks (called “crab”);
- dowels (plastic) and screws.
In addition, you will need an assistant, since doing everything yourself, without help, aligning and aligning the surfaces evenly and correctly will be problematic.
It's much easier to get the job done with a partner Execution of work
Profiles allow you to do plasterboard structures in one or more tiers. Whatever method is chosen, the installation process is the same, with the exception of the decorative form.
How to make a frame:
- The first step is to determine the height at which the sheathing will be located. On at this stage The location of communications that can pass inside is also taken into account: heating pipes, ventilation, electrical wiring for sockets and lamps, etc.
- If built-in lighting is planned, then the distance from the surface of the real ceiling to the sheet is maintained at least ten centimeters. This is done for two reasons: firstly, the lamp itself will not fit into a smaller gap, and secondly, the lighting devices require cooling. When using a regular chandelier, the gap is made equal to 5 centimeters. The minimum height of the structure is 3 centimeters.
- Using the level, the reference point is determined. A line is drawn along the perimeter of the walls. The guide profile (UD-27) is attached to the drawn line. As fastening elements dowels protrude. To do this correctly, you will need both a drill and a hammer.
Marking the structure - They begin to work with the ceiling profile (CD-60). To do this, notches are made on the guide bar. IN in this case They also observe a step of 0.6 m. A ceiling strip along the entire wall is attached to the marked places.
To prevent deformation of the frame due to temperature changes, it is not fixed close to the wall or ceiling.
- Fastening begins with the installation of hangers, which are mounted on ceiling covering at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Next, a ceiling profile is attached to them, for which self-tapping screws are used.
- By means of transverse jumpers they give strength to the frame. The fastening is carried out using “crabs”, while taking steps of half a meter.
As for the multi-level system, its installation is similar to the single-level one, which was discussed above, it’s just that additional strips are used to create it, which create the levels.
The exception is the form multi-level ceiling. It is difficult to give a wavy outline to a structure, to create which you will have to wet the sheet with water and gradually form a curved element.
How to work with drywall correctly: sheet cutting and fasteners
This is done step by step like this:
- The sheet is cut. To do this, it is cut with force with a mounting knife to create a deep groove along which the plaster is broken. After this, cut the second half of the cardboard.
- The ends of the cut sheet are treated with sandpaper.
- If you plan to install recessed lighting fixtures on the ceiling, then make holes for them.
- Next, lay the sheets of drywall. It is important to alternate panels correctly. First put the whole one, then the half.
- To attach the sheet to the frame, fasteners are used - self-tapping screws.
When the above work is completed, finishing begins. Please note that this process is not easy, so you should not relax at this stage.
Surface preparation: sealing seams and holes Finishing work
They start by inspecting the plasterboard structure. Look for depressions, bumps, cracks and other gaps. They are covered with putty. The seams and screw heads are puttied.
When it's your turn finishing works, then complete freedom of action begins here - the plasterboard ceiling is painted, covered with wallpaper, or you choose an option - it depends on personal preferences.
When choosing paint, keep in mind that any composition you like will do. But there are still points that need to be taken into account.
If you are going to paint the ceiling with matte paint, then remember that it is only placed on an unputtyed surface. This composition is applied in several layers to cover up defects.
When using a glossy paint composition, the ceiling is first puttied.
Regardless of the type of paint, the surface needs a primer.
If you are going to hang wallpaper, then in this case you will also need to apply a layer of primer. It should be noted that acrylic primer – best option under the wallpaper.
There is another question that concerns many people: what wallpaper to choose for drywall. The answer is simple - it can be covered with any type of wallpaper, regardless of structure, thickness and quality.
What types of plasterboard ceiling projects there are can be seen in the presented photos:
Metal frame under the cladding 
Draft version of the ceiling with wiring for lamps 
Finished ceiling with your own hands
