Lathing made of timber under PVC panels. Expert advice on installing lathing for plastic panels

Finishing walls with plastic panels has a number of advantages, which include high installation speed, excellent technical specifications material, no need to pre-level the walls. It is quite possible for people who do not have professional construction and repair skills to carry out such work. But if the installation of PVC lamellas does not cause any particular difficulties, then during the installation of the lathing a number of questions arise. How to make a sheathing for plastic panels will be discussed in our article.

An example of a wooden sheathing for plastic panels

Required materials and tools

To avoid downtime during the installation process due to searching for missing parts, you should prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. For work you will definitely need:

The following materials are used for installation of the sheathing:

  • wooden blocks;
  • galvanized profile;
  • plastic guides.

Each of these samples is quite easy to install and has proven itself during operation. There is no single recommendation on how to choose the right material for installation; preference should be given based on your financial capabilities or available remnants from previous repairs.

Calculation of materials for the frame


Don't forget to calculate in advance required quantity materials

Any construction installation work begin with preliminary calculations of the required materials and drawing up an estimate. Regardless of the materials used, the installation process and layout remain unchanged.

To assemble the sheathing, on which the panels will not bend and sag, you will initially need to install profile frames (bars) along the perimeter of each wall, and only then install the transverse slats.

Please note that the installation of slats around the perimeter of window and door openings is also a prerequisite.

  • Before making the sheathing, measure the height and width of the walls, as well as the perimeter of the doors and windows. You will also need these measurements to calculate the required number of plastic panels.
  • Specific gravity panels allows you to assemble the sheathing with a pitch between slats of 50 cm or more. The distance between them depends on the quality and thickness of the plastic. The more durable the material is supposed to be used, the larger the gap can be left.
  • On a wall 250 cm high, you will need to fill the frame around the perimeter and place 4 transverse slats in it every 50 cm or 3 slats every 62 cm.
  • To attach the slats to the wall, use self-tapping screws (for wooden or adobe surfaces) or dowels and nails (for concrete and brick bases) with a pitch of 20 - 30 cm between them.

Based on the measurements obtained, you can easily calculate the required amount of consumables.

Marking and installation

Be sure to use a level when marking

The lathing, made in a single plane, is the key to a high-quality plastic-lined wall.

The most significant advantages of finishing walls with plastic panels include the ability to carry out installation without first leveling the rough base. The wall and ceiling may have significant unevenness and roughness. However, this does not mean at all that you will not have to carry out high-quality measurements and bring the sheathing into a single plane.

IN multi-storey buildings the same height of the walls at all points in the room, as well as right angles, is the exception rather than the rule. Therefore, with the help of panels it is necessary not only to decorate the surface, but also to give the room the correct geometric shape.

Ceiling

Attaching panels to the ceiling sheathing

To begin installing the sheathing, start from the lowest corner. The first mark is left at a distance from the ceiling equal to the width of the profile used. If you plan to install built-in spotlights, then take into account the height of the soffit. In cases where there is a need to lower the ceiling, thereby reducing the height of the walls, a mark is placed at the desired point.

  1. Using a hydraulic or laser level, additional markings are made, drawing marks on each wall, retreating 10 - 15 cm from the corner.
  2. Connect the marks using a beating cable (a strong thread richly painted with dry powder).
  3. Mark the ceiling in increments of 50–60 cm.

The resulting lines serve as a guide for screwing the sheathing to the base.

Walls

For walls, it is extremely important to assemble a frame with right angles 90 degrees. There is no way you can do this without a laser level or a construction angle.

Example of wall lathing

  1. First of all, bars or profiles are filled in the corners of the room. If necessary, additional gaskets are placed under them. It is important at this stage to position the slats so that the angle formed between the mating surfaces is straight. Check the resulting connections using a building angle.
  2. The profiles are fastened along the ceiling and floor coverings.
  3. Pull the cord between the upper and lower profiles, and, focusing on it, install the horizontal strips of the sheathing.
  4. Along the perimeter of window and doorways Profile slats must be installed.

When installing a frame under a plastic structure on a balcony or loggia, they use the same calculations and methods. However, it makes sense to insulate the room by placing a layer of thermal insulation in strips between the profiles.

Features of a wooden frame

Ceiling sheathing for plastic lamellas, assembled from wooden blocks, is distinguished by its relatively low cost and insignificant weight. She bears weight perfectly plastic construction. The only drawback of wood is its ability to actively absorb moisture from the environment, which leads to its deformation during use. Based on these features, this material is not recommended for use in very wet areas. However, it is quite acceptable to assemble wooden sheathing in a residential area where it is installed ventilation duct and there is sufficient air exchange.

Example of a wooden frame in a bathroom

Wooden structures are often affected by infection mold fungi, and not infrequently it becomes a place of residence for all kinds of bugs. To minimize the likelihood of unpleasant consequences, the wood is pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial compounds. In addition, today there are many products on the market with a hydrophobic effect; after coating, the wood loses its ability to absorb moisture.

If you want to maximize the service life of a wood structure, do not neglect and treat individual elements with special preserving impregnations.

  1. To make installation easier, mark the wooden blocks location of the screws, and drill them with a wood drill.
  2. IN concrete base Drill holes for the dowel using countersunk nails.
  3. Align the holes in the slats and the base of the walls, and attach with hardware.
  4. In case of attachment to wooden base use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm.

Features of installation of galvanized profile lathing

Galvanized profile frame

Lathing made of galvanized profiles is installed extremely rarely; this is largely due to significant financial costs. However, in cases where there is a need to omit ceiling, it is the metal frame that is assembled.

When purchasing metal profiles, pay attention to their markings. Depending on their purpose, they are ceiling-mounted, rack-mounted, or guide-mounted.

To mount the frame on the ceiling, use UD profile guides, which are placed around the perimeter of the room, securing them with their back to the rough base. After installation, the frames are inserted into the grooves of the CD profile.

When the profile is attached directly to the rough base, self-tapping screws or dowel nails are used. If there is a need to maintain a gap between them, use U-shaped hangers or anchors.

If for the installation of plasterboard ceilings it is necessary to install a cellular frame, then for fastening PVC panels a rack frame is sufficient.

Plastic frame

Wood and metal are not the only materials used for assembling sheathing. PVC guides have been in great demand in recent years. Such structures are durable, not affected by high humidity and corrosion, easy to install, and have a low weight.

Plastic profiles are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws or dowels with nails. But the panels are fixed with special clamps, reducing assembly time to a minimum and significantly saving time.

Instead of a conclusion

Despite the apparent complexity, installation of sheathing under plastic panels can be done independently with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. You just need to be patient and have a standard set of tools in your arsenal. The most important thing in this work is to make an accurate calculation of the required materials and assemble the structure in a single plane, observing right angles. We hope that after reading the material, you were able to get an answer to the question of how to make your own sheathing for installing plastic panels.

We recommend video: Finishing bathroom walls in 1 day with plastic panels

Plastic panels are a popular finishing material used to create modern decor in various rooms of an apartment or house. In most cases, such products are attached to wall or ceiling surfaces using lathing - an easy-to-install frame.

The frame under the PVC panel makes it possible to qualitatively fix the finishing material even on uneven surfaces. In addition, the lathing allows installation of plastic products in any type of premises - unheated, with unstable temperatures, with high levels of humidity. The frame can be easily installed independently, without the help of specialists. It is made of metal slats, plastic strips or wooden beams. The choice of one of these materials should be made taking into account:

  • the magnitude of elevation differences on the treated surface;
  • humidity level in the home;
  • experience of working as a home craftsman with wood, plastic, metal.

Plastic profiles are quite rare

Plastic lathing for various PVC panels can be installed in rooms of any humidity level. This design is created quickly enough, even by very inexperienced craftsmen, and it has an affordable price. PVC frame elements are characterized by low thickness. Therefore, it is recommended to install them in rooms with low ceilings. In such cases, the height of the room after installing the skeleton under the cladding will decrease slightly.

It is worth noting that plastic profiles for sheathing in construction stores Selling quite rarely. Sometimes you have to work hard to get them. Plastic products also have one more drawback. It lies in the fact that they can only be used in rooms with smooth walls and ceilings. The plastic frame is installed on the surface with minimal irregularities and curvatures. If the base defects are more significant, achieve high-quality finishing you won't succeed.

2 Wooden and metal frames – guaranteed strength

If the surface to be treated has noticeable differences in height, it is better to use wooden blocks for lathing. They make it possible to create reliable frames for plastic panels. The cost of wood is affordable, the installation process itself does not cause serious problems. IN in this case It is only important to use well-dried bars that do not have noticeable bends.

Wooden sheathing is installed exclusively in dry rooms. In rooms with high humidity It is prohibited to install such a structure!

Metal profiles ensure maximum reliability of the frame. They can be installed in rooms of any temperature and humidity level. And most importantly, metal lathing under PVC panels can be mounted on any ceilings and walls with significant curvatures and height differences. Another advantage of metal structures is the possibility of safely installing built-in lighting equipment in them.

The metal frame is the most reliable

The disadvantages of metal profiles include the following:

  1. 1. Certain complexity and labor intensity of frame installation ( home handyman must have some skills in working with metal).
  2. 2. High price products and hardware for their fastening.
  3. 3. Large consumption of material to create the sheathing, which increases the total cost of the work.

The lathing for modern plastic panels is selected taking into account all the above facts. We hope it will be easy for you to choose the optimal material.

3 How much material is needed to create a base for PVC panels?

Having decided on the material that you will use to build the skeleton for cladding, you need to figure out how many profiles and additional elements will have to purchase. Everything is quite simple here. The lathing, in fact, is a flat base made of wooden, metal or plastic parts onto which PVC panels are attached. Therefore, you can calculate the amount of materials required to create such a base in just a couple of minutes.

The distance between the individual frame strips is taken to be within 45–60 cm (if you plan to cover the wall surface) or 35–40 cm (ceiling finishing). This is the main rule that you need to know when calculating the required material. Let's say you want to make a lathing on the ceiling with dimensions of 170 by 250 cm from plastic or wooden planks. How to perform the calculation? Elementary.

The distance between the slats is usually 45–60 cm

To install the frame on such a surface, you will need strips 170 cm long (professionals recommend installing PVC panels along the long side of the ceiling). The number of these elements is determined as follows. You need to take the length of the ceiling (250 cm) and divide it by the recommended distance between the individual slats (take the value 40 cm). And then add one more bar to the obtained result. That is, total number slats should be: 250/40 + 1. Simple mathematical calculations give us the required number of slats made of wood or plastic - 7 pieces.

If metal profiles will be used, you will additionally need to purchase two special hangers for each of the slats. For a ceiling of the specified dimensions, 14 additional elements will therefore be required. Suspensions are needed to hold the sheathing on the ceiling base. You will also need special metal parts - guides in the shape of the letter P. They are placed around the perimeter of the ceiling. With its dimensions of 170x250 cm, you need to buy 8.4 m of guides. The latter have a standard length of 3 m. This means you will have to buy three pieces of guides.

Calculation of the number of planks for lathing on a wall is carried out in a similar way. Only the distance between the slats is not 40 cm, but more (up to 60 cm), and the length of the slats is determined based on the length of the wall base.

4 Making a skeleton from metal - difficult, but reliable

Lathing the ceiling using metal profiles for plastic panels is the most difficult option for creating a frame.

Let's look at it step by step:

  1. 1. Draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the walls. The frame will be mounted on it. If you plan to install external lamps, the marking is carried out below the ceiling by 3 cm, in the case of installing built-in lighting - by 7 cm.
  2. 2. Fix the metal guides strictly along the line. They are usually pre-attached to the wall. drilled holes dowel-nails (hardware parameters – 6x40 mm).
  3. 3. Insert the frame strips into the fixed guides. Do not forget about the distance between them of 40 cm!
  4. 4. Attach the hangers opposite the profiles to the ceiling surface.
  5. 5. Connect the metal slats to the hangers, constantly checking the accuracy of the horizontal installation using building level.
  6. 6. Bend the excess parts of the hanging elements towards the ceiling.

The frame is ready. You can start installing PVC panels.

Metal sheathing is mounted on the walls according to the same principle. Experts advise placing profiles at the level of the shoulder, lower back, knee and ankle of a person of normal height. If you or one of your guests accidentally leans against a wall trimmed with PVC panels, damage to the finish (for example, its deflection) will not occur. Due to the described arrangement, metal profiles will support your weight and keep the plastic cladding in its original form.

5 Other types of lathing - everything is much simpler!

Now let's see how to make a frame out of wood. For these purposes, it is advisable to use slats with a cross-section of 3x3–5x5 cm. They must be treated with an antiseptic (just apply it with a spray bottle or a brush to the slats) and left to dry for a day. Then you need to install four prepared strips around the perimeter of the wall or ceiling, creating a kind of base for the entire sheathing. This preliminary structure must be perfectly aligned. Use a level to check that it is positioned correctly. If necessary, place additional wooden blocks under the frame you have made.

A wooden frame is the easiest to install

Next, attach additional guides to the mounted base every 0.35–0.4 m. They should be attached to the ceiling (wall) with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. If this is not done, the frame will sag after a couple of years of use. Don't skimp on fasteners. If necessary, perform additional fastening of the sheathing elements using extra slats and hardware. The frame should be as strong and reliable as possible.

There are even fewer problems with plastic skeletons under PVC panels. Their installation diagram is as follows:

  1. 1. Mark the base.
  2. 2. Install plastic strips, attaching them to the walls with dowels.
  3. 3. Mount the panels on the guides. The latter are equipped with clips - special fasteners.

Pay attention! All guides must be mounted strictly perpendicular to the plastic panels. If you do not fulfill this condition, you will not be able to line the wall (ceiling) with PVC products. Clips simply won't work. This feature of plastic frames discourages novice craftsmen from using PVC guides.

Choose the method of arranging the frame for plastic panels that suits you. Create original interiors in the house, admire the perfectly smooth walls and ceilings in your home. Good luck.

The lathing for PVC panels or the frame is the basis for the further finishing of ceilings and walls with plastic panels. Lathing for PVC panels can be made from wooden beams, plastic strips or metal profile. Each of these building materials has its own application and installation features. When choosing a material to create a frame for finishing with PVC panels, it is worth considering the humidity in the room, the size of the differences in height for the ceiling and unevenness for the walls, and the availability of skills in working with the material from which it is planned to be assembled.

Wooden lathing for PVC panels

It is advantageous to use wooden blocks in the manufacture of frames for plastic panels, since they are the most inexpensive and widely available material. However, it should be remembered that building a wooden frame is only possible in dry rooms. We must also not forget that despite the simplicity of manufacturing such a frame, the selection of bars should be approached with particular pickiness. It is not recommended to use curved, bent, or poorly dried bars.

Lathing for PVC panels made of plastic profile

Plastic profile is a very convenient material for making a frame. It can be used in rooms with any humidity. In addition, the plastic profile has the smallest thickness of all materials that can be used for sheathing. This allows you to minimize the inevitable loss of space when finishing with plastic panels. The plastic profile is very easy to install. However, it also has its limitations. Firstly, due to its flexibility, its use is possible only in rooms where the ceiling and walls have slight curvatures and unevenness. Secondly, and this is the main drawback plastic profile- this is its availability for sale. That is, plastic profiles are very rarely found in construction stores and markets.

Lathing for PVC panels made of metal profile

The metal profile is the most reliable material for making bases for plastic panels. It has proven itself when used in any room. This is the only material that will allow you to install lathing on walls with very large curvatures and ceilings with a significant difference in height. In addition, this frame allows you to install built-in lighting fixtures. However, lathing made from this material is more expensive in cost. This is due to the higher cost of the profile, as well as the higher consumption of material for assembling the sheathing. In addition, installation of such a frame is more labor-intensive and requires skill in working with metal profiles. If you do not have such a skill, and there is no time to acquire it, you can invite a trusted master to do such work.

Free selection of a sheathing installation specialist in your city!

Calculation of material for sheathing.

Lathing for PVC panels is nothing more than planks attached to a surface that is finished with plastic panels. Calculation of the material required for the assembly of the frame consists of determining the number of these planks. It should be taken into account that the distance between them should be in the range from 35 to 40 cm for the ceiling, and on the walls from 45 to 60 cm. For example, for lathing on a ceiling measuring 170 cm by 250 cm, the following amount of PVC profile or wooden beam will be required . Since it is more economical to place PVC panels along the long side of the ceiling (that is, 250 cm), you will need strips 170 cm long. Their number is determined as follows:

Ceiling length, cm/Distance between planks, cm + 1

It turns out 7 planks 170 cm long. This way the required amount of PVC profile and wooden beams for constructing a frame on the ceiling is determined. When determining the amount of metal profile, you should add suspensions to the above calculation - elements that hold the structure on the ceiling. In this case, you will need 2 of them. on the bar. That is, the total number is 14. And also the guides are a U-shaped metal strip fastened along the perimeter of the ceiling. That is, the total length is 8.4 meters. Considering that the length of the metal guides is 3 meters, you will need 3 pieces.

To calculate the material required to assemble the frame on the wall, we take into account that the length of the planks is equal to the length of the wall. And it is not recommended to make a distance of more than 60 cm between them. In this case, the amount of timber, PVC and metal profile is the same. The only thing is that when installing a metal frame on a wall, metal hangers will be required.

Lathing for PVC panels on the ceiling.

Installation of sheathing for PVC panels involves attaching bars, PVC or metal profiles to the surface to be finished. Moreover, the fastening must be made perpendicular to the direction of installation of the plastic panels. The most labor-intensive is the installation of lathing from metal profiles on the ceiling. To do this you will need the following tool:

Ladder;

A drill with an impact mechanism, but a hammer drill is better;

Scissors for cutting metal;

Level (laser, water or regular with a length of at least 60 cm);

Screwdriver;

Indicator screwdriver with the ability to detect hidden wiring;

Drills or drill for concrete;

Pliers;

Hammer;

Roulette;

Construction pencil.

Instructions for installing lathing for PVC panels on the ceiling.

Decide on the installation of built-in lighting fixtures. When using them, apply a strictly horizontal line at a distance of 7 cm from the ceiling along the perimeter of the walls of the room. When using outdoor lamps, the distance can be reduced to 3 cm.

Fix metal guides along the perimeter of the walls strictly along the marked line. It is convenient to fasten them using dowels - nails measuring 6 by 40 mm. When drilling holes in the wall, first check with an indicator screwdriver for the absence of hidden wiring.

Insert profiles into the installed guides and distribute them at a frequency of no more than 40 cm between each other.

Fasten the suspensions to the ceiling opposite the profiles with a distance of 45 to 60 cm between each other.

Attach hangers with profiles. When performing this operation, regularly check the horizontalness of the surface of the frame using a level. Bend the excess parts of the hangers towards the ceiling. The lathing is ready for installation of PVC panels.

Lathing for PVC panels made of metal profile

When using wood or PVC planks, installation of the sheathing is performed as follows. The planks are attached to the surface of the ceiling with dowels - nails with a size of at least 6 by 60 mm. The horizontal alignment of the wooden frame is carried out by placing pieces of timber between it and the ceiling.

Lathing for PVC panels on the wall.

The lathing for PVC panels on the wall is mounted in the same way as on the ceiling. The difference lies in the frequency of installation of profiles or bars. So, it is not advisable to make a distance of more than 60 cm between them. In practice, craftsmen attach profiles or bars in this way.

They are mounted at the level of a person’s ankle, knee, pelvis and shoulder. And in this case, if someone leans against a wall made of plastic panels, they will not bend or be damaged.

You should also check with a level or plumb line the verticality of the frame and the formation of right angles.

Dear readers, I hope this article provides practical advice. site will help you choose the right material for making the frame, and the lathing for PVC panels will be reliable and even.

Read also:

What and how to attach plastic panels to the sheathing?

What is the most convenient way to cut PVC panels?

Installing a ceiling from PVC panels in a bathroom with your own hands.

All methods - how to carefully drill tiles in the bathroom.

Home » Walls » PVC lathing for PVC plastic panels: photos and videos

PVC lathing for PVC plastic panels: photos and videos

Thanks to the lathing, the panels can be installed even in rooms with high humidity, unstable temperatures, or even unheated rooms. Plastic sheathing for PVC panels lasts longer than they themselves because they do not deform under the influence of a negative environment. It is often used for new panels after dismantling old ones.

Plastic and wood

The structure may consist of wooden or plastic slats. The latest PVC panels are attached to special clips, which is very convenient. A design made from a metal profile is rare, but it is not yet very popular among craftsmen. The metal base has its drawbacks, including heavy weight compared to plastic.

Experienced experts say that wood is far from the most best material for such structures. Wooden sheathing can be deformed, which entails changes in the appearance of the panels. Ideally, they should fit very tightly - without visible joints. Therefore, changes in the design of the sheathing are immediately reflected in the panels themselves, which only shift slightly, but this already greatly spoils the aesthetic perception.

Advantages of plastic over wood:

  • thanks to fastening with clips to the rail, installation becomes easier and faster;
  • not subject to the negative influence of a humid environment, therefore it is not a concentration of mold and fungi;
  • often used as a wiring conduit;
  • fireproof.

Thanks to these undeniable advantages, plastic sheathing for panels clearly has an advantage when choosing a material.

Preparation before installation of the sheathing

To create the sheathing yourself, you should follow some recommendations from the masters:

  • There must be a certain distance between the slats. It is better if it turns out to be the same, this way it is much easier to calculate the amount of material for the entire structure. Optimal distance– 30 cm, but the norm is up to 50 cm;
  • The installation of the slats should be perpendicular to the panels. Vertical panels are attached to horizontal slats, and horizontal panels, respectively, to vertical ones;
  • The strips must be located at the beginning and at the end of the entire surface on which installation work is carried out. Don't forget about window and door openings.

The wall surface does not need to be further prepared before installing the sheathing structure. You just need to stock up on the necessary tools in advance:

  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • electric drill;
  • building level;
  • plumb line;
  • hacksaw for wood;
  • miter box;
  • square;
  • roulette;
  • a drill with a tip suitable for dowels;
  • screws;
  • dowels;
  • chalk for marking.

For the design itself you will need:

  • slats or timber made of wood - 30×10 and 30×20 (for interior and facade work);
  • metal or PVC profiles.

So that everything you need is at hand and you don’t have to be distracted while working.

Lathing for PFC panels – installation

The most responsible and important stage in installation - this is the installation of the frame. How straight and correct the lathing is, the panels themselves will acquire an aesthetically attractive appearance after their installation is complete. It will not be possible to hang finishing elements beautifully and evenly on a crooked base.

If wooden slats are used, their humidity should not exceed 18%. Select all parts of the future structure as solid, straight and without knots. When using this material, you should know that this type of lathing is not suitable for a bathroom or kitchen.

Marking the perimeter for the frame is done from the most protruding area. Based on it, it will be possible to make the finishing layer of panels as even as possible. Using chalk, tape measure and slats, outlines are drawn to which the sheathing for the panels will correspond. To install the slats, use a plumb line with an electric drill and a level. The elements are fastened to each other and to the wall using screws and dowels.

The space between the slats should be:

  • on the wall – 400-500 mm;
  • on the ceiling - 300-400 mm.

On a curved wall, the panel sheathing is leveled using wood or plywood spacers. The building level checks how level the structure is. The space between the wall and the panel sheathing is filled with insulation. It is not necessary to do this, but you need to keep in mind that this place can easily be used for its intended purpose. Thanks to the insulation, it will not only become warmer, but also increase the sound insulation of the room.

Installation of the panels begins only after the installation of the sheathing has been completed.

We make lathing for PVC panels

  • Interior decoration
    • Ceiling
    • Walls
    • Doors, arches
    • Stove, fireplace
  • Interior decoration
    • Kitchen
    • Bathroom, toilet
    • Corridor, hallway
    • Balcony, loggia
    • Other rooms
  • Finishing of buildings
    • Country and private houses
    • Wooden houses
    • Baths, saunas
  • Finishing materials
    • Drywall
    • Cladding panels
    • Wallpaper, cork
    • Tile
    • Laminate, linoleum
    • Decorative plaster
  • Finishing work
    • Plaster
    • Primer
    • putty
    • Painting, whitewashing

Many who are faced with floor renovation for the first time are intimidated by laying laminate flooring with their own hands. This material counts.

In private households and dachas, which you want to make habitable all year round, but there is no opportunity to do so.

Slope finishing front door can be done in various ways. Each of the available options has its own advantages.

Wall decoration with PVC panels

During renovations, you don’t always want to deal with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There is a simpler technology - decorating walls with plastic panels. You can cope on your own even without much experience construction work and in a day or two carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony/loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This view finishing material made from PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is squeezed into a mold. A drawing is applied to the finished panels. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a smooth, but a textured surface. The design applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but similar materials cost about twice as much.

Several samples of laminated PVC panels for wall decoration

Another technology is to apply the design directly to the plastic, and then cover it with two layers of varnish. More cheap technology, but the service life and quality of the drawing are lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those intended for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, while those for walls have a thickness of 5 mm and more thin partitions, from 8 to 10 mm. You can determine which species is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material is distinguished by the fact that it has a smooth surface and, when joined tightly, the seams are not very noticeable.

Plastic panels for wall decoration

There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges that are more characteristic of plastic lining. If you decorate the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

The width of plastic wall panels is most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are others not standard sizes, but these are the most common. There is quite a wide variation in price - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the design, etc.

Thin PVC wall panels

Above we discussed products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for refusing to use them. Therefore, thin plastic wall panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and there are no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950 * 480 mm or so.

Their installation method is different - they are glued to the walls. Due to the fact that this finishing material has a very small thickness, it is cut with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But to avoid any difficulties during the installation process, you need to keep track of some points when purchasing:

  • Inspect the cut of the selected plastic panel. The thicker the lintels and the front and back layers of polymer, the stronger the finish. You can also focus on weight - the greater it is, the thicker the panels will be.
  • The thickness of the plastic is the same everywhere, without thickening or more thin places. This is a sign of normal quality.
  • Pay attention to the geometry. The cells should not be wrinkled, the edges should be absolutely smooth. Even if everything is packed, it doesn’t hurt to unpack and inspect it so that there are no problems later.
  • Inspect the front surface. The pattern should be applied evenly, clearly, without blurry spots.
  • If you choose panels from different packs, but of the same color, carefully look at the colors - they may differ.

To ensure beautiful wall decoration with plastic panels, check the quality in the store

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. You need to take one plank so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, examine it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

The correct technology for installing plastic panels on walls

The good thing about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself and it takes a little time. Well, one more plus - you need the usual tools:

  • drill with drills (install dowels) and a wood bit (drill holes for sockets, etc.);
  • a screwdriver or screwdriver, a construction stapler, glue - depending on what type of fastener you prefer;
  • saw with a metal blade - cut plastic panels;
  • building level;
  • sharp knife - cut to width.

Lathing for wall panels must be in the same plane

This is all you may need when PVC installation panels on the walls. The time required is one to two days, depending on the availability of experience and the area being repaired.

What to make the sheathing from

Installation of PVC panels on walls according to the technology should be done on the lathing. The sheathing is made from:

  • Wooden bars. The optimal cross-section is 40*20 mm. Before installation on walls, it is advisable to treat wood with antiseptic compounds. If finishing the walls with plastic panels is planned in a damp room, then special treatment against mold is also necessary. The panels are attached to the wooden planks using wood screws, nails with a wide head, and staples from a construction stapler.

Wooden planks for lathing under PVC panels

Metal profiles. Wall profiles for plasterboard with a width of 40 mm are used. In damp rooms it is better to use galvanized metal. In this case, the fasteners are metal screws. The disadvantage of this type of lathing is that it takes up too much space - at least 3-5 cm on each wall, which is critical in a small room.

Metal profiles (galvanized)

Plastic mounting strips and clamps (mounting plates). This type of fastening is designed specifically for PVC panels. The fastening is quick - the plastic is simply snapped into the groove on the profile using clamps. There is no need to use any additional fasteners. If necessary, the entire trim can be quickly disassembled - you just need to pry the clamp with a screwdriver (using a little force) and it will come out of the groove. Another good thing about this type of lathing is that it takes only 1 cm (this is the thickness of the profile).

This is what mounting strips for PVC panels look like

Of the three listed materials, it is best to use plastic for installing plastic panels in the bathroom. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Galvanization feels good in a humid environment, but it must be good quality, otherwise it will rust anyway. The most unimportant material is wood, but even with proper processing, they also last for years. And for this to happen, carefully follow the recommendations for applying an antibacterial composition. In some cases, it is enough to brush it a couple of times, in others it is enough to soak it for a while and then dry it.

How to make lathing

Before installing the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and anything that might fall off. If there are large recesses on the surface, it is better to seal them, and strongly protruding parts can be trimmed off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After this, you can begin installing the sheathing.

Basically, plastic panels are mounted horizontally or vertically

The sheathing strips are positioned perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you attach the panels vertically, the sheathing – horizontally and vice versa. Install the sheathing strips at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. The optimal distance is 30 cm (the “walk” panel will be smaller). The strips are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The sheathing is attached at the bottom and top of the wall, around window and door openings. In between, the step of installing the planks is 30-50 cm

The sheathing under the plastic panels is most often secured with dowels. 6*40 mm are placed in a concrete wall (so that a piece does not fall out from the back side of the concrete partition), in a brick wall - 6*60 mm. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be smooth and beautiful, the lathing must be aligned in the same plane. For this purpose, under wooden planks installed where necessary wooden spacers(you can use pieces of plywood), but they also need to be treated with a composition against fungi and mold.

Wooden slats can be mounted on hangers

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when placing metal profiles in one plane, but they can also be used when installing wooden blocks.

If you decide to make a sheathing from plastic mounting profiles, then it is worth considering one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals/horizontals very carefully. One more point: it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as the plastic guides along the perimeter of the walls, doors and windows: we will attach the starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the actual wall plastic panels in the store, you will need to buy some more accessories - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary to give the finish a finished and neat look.

What besides wall panels is needed for installation

At the floor and ceiling level, you can use either a starter or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product with a characteristic cut.

Decorating walls with PVC panels begins with installing selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top/bottom. They are attached to the installed sheathing strips. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the sheathing. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert the panels into it.

The problem point is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same at the bottom)

Next, cut the first panel to the length or height of the wall. Plastic wall panels are cut with a saw and a metal blade. When working with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean on it - push. To ensure that the strip fits into its designated place without any problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

The protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which the cut side is inserted into the corner profile, tucking the edges into the top and bottom. Lightly tapping with your palm, push the bar all the way, check the verticality of the level, applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they fix the lathing to each plank.

This is what a plastic wall panel looks like inserted into a ceiling plinth

Having installed and secured the first strip, cut off the second, join it to the first, secure it, etc. No difficulties. Problems may only arise with the last panel on the wall. You usually have to cut it to width, and then try to tuck it directly into the groove of the previous plank and into the corner or starting profile. It doesn't always work out neatly - the plastic often gets jammed. This situation can be avoided by not securing the second corner profile. Then a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, the whole thing is joined together with the previous plank and only then the corner profile is secured. This is not entirely correct, since only one half of the corner profile is attached, while the second remains unfastened. But after you've been tired of trying to do it right, you don't pay attention to it anymore. Then everything is repeated - further finishing of the walls with plastic panels occurs in exactly the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If we are accustomed to the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall, then not everyone likes the corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or stationery knife. If you cut a strip of plastic from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. This will not be visible from the front side, and you will be able to avoid suffering with the last panel. And outwardly, many people like this solution better.

Wall decoration with plastic panels: how to do without corner profiles

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel and secure it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is located. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, and try it on. If everything is fine, we use this piece as a template, moving the exact location of the cut. This is also not a technology, but it seems to me that decorating the walls with plastic panels looks better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls?

Although the method described above for decorating walls with plastic panels is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly smooth after plastering with beacons or leveling the walls with plasterboard. It is clear that lathing is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they violate technology - they glue plastic panels onto silicone or polyurethane foam.

In this case, the starting profiles will still have to be installed, but they will need to be secured to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone is applied to the back side of the panel (islands in increments of 10-15 cm), the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, and fixed in one or two places with appropriate fasteners. They continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is that it is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on smooth (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the finish without destroying the plastic panels.

Sources:

Plastic lining is used for both internal and external finishing works. Recently, the material has begun to go out of fashion due to the emergence of new finishing options. However, a wide range, availability and low cost leave it quite in demand.

A distinctive feature of the lining is its simplicity and ease of installation, which can be easily handled by one person, even if he is doing it for the first time. To create a sheathing, you need a hammer drill, a screwdriver level, a foam gun, an angle grinder, a silicone gun or liquid nails, construction stapler, molar knife, corner, tape measure and pencil.

Types of panels

Based on their appearance, the panels are divided into three types.

  • Seamless– products whose standard dimensions are 250-350 mm in width and 3000-2700 mm in length. They form a beautiful cast surface. The thickness of the products varies from 8 mm to 10 mm. Panel options differ in the method of applying paint to work surface and, accordingly, in price. All of them are easy to clean with soapy water. Laminated panels are resistant to mechanical impact, do not fade in the sun.
  • Curly– products whose edges are shaped, which gives the assembled surface the appearance of a lining. The width of such models is most often 100 mm, less often – 153 mm. They have a single color, usually white (matte or glossy) or beige. The panels have a lattice structure with air cavities, which can also vary in density and thickness.
  • Ceiling– more easy option. Such panels have a thickness of 5 mm. They wrinkle easily by hand and are the cheapest. They must be installed and operated very carefully. It is recommended to use this material only in places protected from physical and mechanical impact.

There are only two installation methods for PVC panels:

  • directly onto the base plane;
  • using lathing.

To install panels without using sheathing, you need a flat base plane with the least differences. Suitable glass brickwork, concrete, OSB boards, plywood, plasterboard, paving surface. For fastening, silicone, liquid nails, and polyurethane foam are used.

If it is not possible to obtain such fasteners, you can glue the panels onto hot bitumen or oil paint, mixed with sand or cement. They are applied to the base dotted or zigzag, gradually assembling the slabs and pressing them. If necessary, spacers are used. Fastening to a wooden or wood-containing surface is made in the classic way– using nails with wide heads, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler.

Installing panels on uneven surfaces is a more labor-intensive process. For this you need a sheathing.

It can be made from:

  • plastic guides;
  • wooden blocks or slats;
  • metal profiles.

The uniformity of the material used during construction gives many advantages. Therefore, it is best to use special plastic guides. They are durable, light in weight and do not require additional processing because they do not rot. They also have special fasteners for panels (clips), which simplifies installation.

Fasteners are made directly to the base plane, starting from the most convex point. This frame needs more careful assembly. The guides must be mounted strictly parallel to each other. Only in this case will the clips fully fulfill the role of fasteners. The first plastic panel is installed strictly at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the sheathing. Installation is a little more complicated because the elements bend easily, so achieving an ideal plane can be difficult.

For fastening to the plane, not simple 6/60 dowels are used, but anchor bolts. It is best to work together, this applies even to masters. The cavity inside the guides is used for wiring electric cable. Sockets and switches are made overhead, lighting fixtures are made external. Other types of installation of electrical accessories require additional preparatory work with base.

Most often, inexpensive and accessible wooden sheathing is used. The material for its manufacture can be slats or timber. They are pre-treated with an antiseptic drug against fungus and mold. If necessary, fireproof impregnation can be done.

It is worth considering that a plane assembled from PVC panels does not breathe, and such lathing needs to be ventilated. To do this, cuts are made in the bars if they are mounted close to the base. The slats can be attached with small gaps. Decorative plastic grilles will not interfere. If there is a hood (as, for example, in a bathroom, toilet, loggia or kitchen), then a built-in fan can be a good help in maintaining the desired climate.

The frame for the panels is mounted on dowels and leveled using pads at the place of its attachment. The distance between the frame guides is chosen arbitrarily; a step of 30 cm is sufficient. If there is a shortage or saving of material, the distance can be increased to 50 cm. For a high-quality result of installing the panels, the wooden components of the sheathing must be even and smooth. However, they are hidden behind the front covering, so using first-class blanks for these purposes is very wasteful. In this case, a semi-edged board or used board (for example, old trim or even baseboards) is suitable.

The frame is assembled around the perimeter. They go around the door and window openings, technical holes. In corners where two planes meet, perpendicularity must be maintained.

The next component of the sheathing and at the same time the front finish is additional plastic fittings. Geometrically, space is three-dimensional. Therefore, only three planes can meet in one corner. For a uniform transition between planes and to hide gaps, there are various plastic profiles. The starting strip borders a single plane around the perimeter; the ceiling plinth is also used for the same purpose.

The connecting profile is used to distinguish between two panels of different types or colors in one plane or building them up. To meet two planes, strips are designed in the form of an internal and external corner. An F-shaped strip is used to end the plane of panels and hide the technical space between it and the base of the wall.

The profiles are attached to the corners and around the perimeter of the frame in the classical way. After this, the panel is cut 3-4 mm less than the measured distance. This must be done, otherwise the plastic fittings will “swell.” Then the panel is inserted into the grooves of the profiles. Secure it to the rest of the guides. The distance on the panel is marked using a corner, and cut with a hacksaw with a metal blade or a jigsaw with the same blade. Plastic can also be cut easily and quickly with a grinder, but it should be taken into account that this process generates a lot of construction dust.

Molding

You can refuse to use plastic fittings, and use molding to seal the seams. Using molding made from various materials(wood, foam plastic) on PVC panels is irrational, because it will require additional processing (painting, varnishing). It is best to glue shaped strips, that is, molding made of the same PVC material.

The element can be attached using special glue, which you will be offered when purchasing molding in a store, as well as liquid nails or super glue such as “Moment”. There are PVC corners of different sizes, which are just as easily glued to the panels. There is less hassle with this type of finishing, and the process itself takes less time, but after this it is impossible to disassemble the panels without damaging them.

Metal profile

For very uneven surfaces, to create a multi-level plane or a plane with different inclination angles, for applications various types built-in lamps, as well as for creating exhaust duct metal profiles are used, mainly used for installing drywall. Such a frame weighs more and requires more special components for its installation. But it is reliable, does not require special care, and is perfect for both interior and exterior work.

The frame is assembled as easily as a Lego set., only during assembly you will have to perform more various manipulations (trimming, measuring, tightening, bending). However, there are no difficulties here. A person who has assembled such a frame at least once can cope with this task very quickly.

This version of the sheathing makes it possible to use insulation, which at the same time acts as a sound insulator. Possible option interior partition. At the same time, the W-shaped aluminum guide (also called the ceiling) is reinforced with a 40/50 mm wooden beam. Such reinforcement is necessary to create a doorway. If desired, you can strengthen the entire frame, but this is not necessary.

Such racks are attached to the ceiling and floor using reinforced or simple metal corners, tightened with self-tapping screws. The cross members are attached in the same way and can be reinforced in the same way. Their number depends on how the PVC panel will be mounted - vertically or horizontally.

The sheathing is attached to the wall or ceiling in the standard way. A U-shaped guide is mounted around the perimeter at the planned distance from the base. If the area of ​​the surface to be covered is small (about one meter wide), then an W-shaped profile is inserted into it and tightened with a screw (nine with or without a drill).

If the width is greater, then hangers are mounted to the plane using a hammer drill and dowel nails 6/40, 6/60 or a screwdriver, depending on the material of the plane. Suspensions (crocodiles) fix the guide profile in one plane with the same nine. Instead of a nine, you can use ordinary short self-tapping screws with or without a press washer. The option with a press washer will be more expensive, but it fits best on the plane and does not interfere with the installation of the panels.

First, determine in which direction the panel will be mounted. For ceilings, it is better to lay seamless panels perpendicular to the penetration of the light source into the room. The quality of the material varies, and no one is immune from installation defects, and this method will reduce the external manifestation of these defects.

In order to save material, you can consider both options for installing panels(lengthwise and crosswise) and determine which method will produce fewer scraps. After you know the direction of the load-bearing guides of the sheathing, divide the distance of the plane by the pitch of the guides. So you will get their number plus one more piece. This is the minimum amount of material required to install the panels.

To perform more voluminous work, you need to add the perimeter of each plane, technical, window and doorways. When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account the molding of the purchased products. If possible, you can make the components of the sheathing to order.

For information on the types of sheathing for PVC panels, see the following video.

PVC panels are at the peak of their popularity today. And in private homes, and in educational institutions, and in commercial establishments - these panels can be seen everywhere. Modern technologies have made them completely harmless and very light, which is an obvious advantage compared to other materials for finishing work. Their popularity is also associated with a number of advantages:

  • reasonable price;
  • aesthetic appearance;
  • variety of textures and colors;
  • ease of installation.

Types of lathing

Plastic panels are durable, and this is another reason to choose them. In addition, you can order panels on which any photograph or drawing will be applied. This will make your interior truly unique.

Installing such panels is not a problem. Lathing for PVC panels will help you with this.

The type of lathing for them will depend on the room in which the panels are installed.

Finishing materials for the ceiling are presented in a wide variety, so choosing the preferred option is easy. To do this, be guided by your own preferences, interior style and requirements for quality and reliability indicators. One of the popular options is PVC panels.

They are distinguished by their versatility and ease of use, including for wall surfaces. The installation process is simple, so everyone can do it with their own hands, starting with creating the frame. The main thing is to create a durable sheathing for the structure made of PVC panels. It will guarantee that ceiling structure it will be reliable and durable.

Attention! Pay attention to all the details when creating a structure that acts as a frame, strictly following the instructions on the video, which will show the stages of the process.

What is sheathing or frame?

The sheathing is the basis of the structure. It implies the ability to mount panels on the ceiling and walls of rooms. Frames are made from various materials, including plastic.

Among the advantages of this option are the following:

  1. Resistant to temperature changes.
  2. Easy to install on any surface, including walls.
  3. Resistance to moisture.
  4. Possibility to use repeatedly, saving money.
  5. Resistance to deformation.

Frames are also made from other materials. Among them are metal profiles or wooden slats. Wood is not resistant to moisture and temperature changes, which will negatively affect the operation of the sheathing for walls and ceilings. The result is visible deformation. Metal structure not always suitable for PVC, as it becomes too heavy an option.

When compared to these materials, PVC frame has advantages. Among them are the simplicity and efficiency of installation, including for wall surfaces. The panels are easily attached to each other, eliminating the formation of gaps or cracks. Additionally, clips are used to ensure a secure fit to the wall or surface.

One more positive trait– resistance to mold and mildew. Plastic structures are fireproof and easily tolerate moisture and dampness, which cannot be said about their wooden or metal counterparts. If required, a plastic frame is used as a cable for organizing wiring.

What will be useful during the creation process?

You can create it yourself. This process is simple, and everyone probably has the tools needed for this at home. If desired, you can call the command experienced craftsmen who will quickly cope with the task assigned to them. But doing it yourself will give you a reason to be proud of your own successes.

Prepare the following tools:

  1. Screwdriver.
  2. Drill.
  3. Tape measure or ruler.
  4. Construction level, optimal choice– water option.
  5. Hacksaw.

This is enough to create a PVC frame. Despite the fact that the cost will be more expensive than a wooden one, the result will pleasantly surprise you. There is no need to use antiseptics, and the installation itself is based on the use of special clip-fasteners, which facilitates the process.

Remember that decorative elements are attached to the plastic frame in a perpendicular position relative to the structural elements. Compliance with this simple recommendation guarantees the quality of the fastening and the absence of problems later.

Stages of installation of the structure

To ensure successful installation of PVC lathing, follow the recommendations of professionals. The first thing people pay attention to is the distance between the slats. This is true for both ceilings and walls. The optimal distance is a step of 30 cm. The PVC slats themselves are placed in a perpendicular position to the panels. In other words, if the panels are mounted in a vertical position, the slats are fastened horizontally and in the reverse order.

An important point is the marking. It is carried out at the initial stage. Without this, it will not be possible to create a high-quality frame for the ceiling or walls. If you find it difficult to mark yourself, watch the video. It will introduce you to the details of the marking process for the ceiling and walls.

The frame is fastened along the perimeter of the room; to do this, measure the length of the walls, finding the lowest angle, draw a horizontal line from it, along which they begin to mount the frame. Panels made of PVC material are joined together using a hacksaw and a miter box. These tools will allow you to get a good cut on the panels with minimal dimensions. The material is fastened every 25-30 cm.

If desired, you can make this process easier. To do this, pull the fishing line along the marking line. This makes installation easier and reduces the likelihood of errors.

If you have been able to appreciate the advantages of PVC lathing and lining the ceiling and walls with plastic panels, carefully prepare for the installation process. To perform the steps correctly, watch the video. It will allow you to understand the intricacies of the ceiling creation process and avoid common mistakes. Video is the best assistant that guarantees that the cladding is done correctly.

In addition to commercial and residential premises, lathing makes it possible to mount panels in rooms with high humidity, in places where temperature fluctuates and unheated rooms. It is not subject to deformation and can be reused, as there is no damage left on it.

You can make a sheathing from wooden slats or purchase a plastic one, on which the panels are fixed using special clips. In addition, now many people have begun to use a metal profile to install the frame.

In practice, it became clear that wood is not the best material for sheathing. Since the joints between the PVC panels are almost invisible, any gap will become very noticeable when the frame is deformed.

Differences between plastic and wooden sheathing:

  • allows for quick installation; panels are snapped onto the rail with clips;
  • resistance to dampness, mold and fungi do not form;
  • can be used as a cable channel for wiring;
  • fireproof.

Creating a sheathing - preparatory instructions

In order to make the sheathing, you need to follow some tips.

  • It is necessary to maintain the distance between the slats. Ideally it should be 30 cm, but not more than 50 cm.
  • The slats must be installed perpendicular to the plastic panels. If the panel will be mounted vertically, then the bar must be positioned horizontally, and vice versa.
  • It should be placed not only at the beginning and end of the working surface, but also around window and door openings.

To install the frame, there is no need for preliminary surface preparation. To make a sheathing for PVC panels, you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials: an electric drill, a screwdriver or screwdriver, a construction level (for leveling the slats in vertical and horizontal planes), a hacksaw, a plumb line, a square, a miter box, and a tape measure.

Material should be next: straight wooden slats or timber 30x10 (for interior work) and 30x20 (for facade work), metal profiles or special PVC profiles, drill with a tip for the diameter of the dowel, screws, chalk (for marking).

Lathing for PVC panels - let's get to work

Installation of the frame for fastening the panels is the most critical stage of the work. The type of room will depend on the straightness and correctness of the supporting structures. If wooden slats are used, they should be chosen without knots, the straightest ones, and the humidity should be no more than 18%.

If there is high humidity in the room, then small cuts need to be made in the slats so that air can circulate. After everything is prepared, you can begin marking the perimeter. It should be performed in the same way as for another type of frame, starting from the most protruding point.

Using chalk, a tape measure and a straight batten, it is necessary to draw the contours along which the sheathing will be installed under the PVC panels. Next, using a plumb bob, an electric drill and a level, the slats are mounted and secured with screws and dowels to the working surface. The distance between the planks on the wall should be 40-50 cm, on the ceiling 30-40 cm.

If the wall is uneven, then the sheathing is leveled using wooden or veneered spacers. Usually there is a space between the wall and the frame, which can be filled with insulation if desired. It will provide the room with heat and sound insulation. After completing the installation of the frame, you can begin installing the panels.

Thanks to the lathing, the panels can be installed even in rooms with high humidity, unstable temperatures, or even unheated rooms. Plastic sheathing for PVC panels lasts longer than they themselves because they do not deform under the influence of a negative environment. It is often used for new panels after dismantling old ones.

Plastic and wood

The structure may consist of wooden or plastic slats. The latest PVC panels are attached to special clips, which is very convenient. A design made from a metal profile is rare, but it is not yet very popular among craftsmen. The metal base has its drawbacks, including heavy weight compared to plastic.

Experienced experts say that wood is far from the best material for such structures. Wooden sheathing can be deformed, which entails changes in the appearance of the panels. Ideally, they should fit very tightly - without visible joints. Therefore, changes in the design of the sheathing are immediately reflected in the panels themselves, which only shift slightly, but this already greatly spoils the aesthetic perception.

Advantages of plastic over wood:

  • thanks to fastening with clips to the rail, installation becomes easier and faster;
  • not subject to the negative influence of a humid environment, therefore it is not a concentration of mold and fungi;
  • often used as a wiring conduit;
  • fireproof.

Thanks to these undeniable advantages, plastic sheathing for panels clearly has an advantage when choosing a material.

Preparation before installation of the sheathing

To create the sheathing yourself, you should follow some recommendations from the masters:

  • There must be a certain distance between the slats. It is better if it turns out to be the same, this way it is much easier to calculate the amount of material for the entire structure. The optimal distance is 30 cm, but the norm is up to 50 cm;
  • The installation of the slats should be perpendicular to the panels. Vertical panels are attached to horizontal slats, and horizontal panels, respectively, to vertical ones;
  • The strips must be located at the beginning and at the end of the entire surface on which installation work is carried out. Don't forget about window and door openings.

The wall surface does not need to be further prepared before installing the sheathing structure. You just need to stock up on the necessary tools in advance:

  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • electric drill;
  • building level;
  • plumb line;
  • hacksaw for wood;
  • miter box;
  • square;
  • roulette;
  • a drill with a tip suitable for dowels;
  • screws;
  • dowels;
  • chalk for marking.

For the design itself you will need:

  • slats or timber made of wood - 30×10 and 30×20 (for interior and facade work);
  • metal or PVC profiles.

So that everything you need is at hand and you don’t have to be distracted while working.

Lathing for PFC panels – installation

The most responsible and important stage in the installation is the installation of the frame. How straight and correct the lathing is, the panels themselves will acquire an aesthetically attractive appearance after their installation is completed. It will not be possible to hang finishing elements beautifully and evenly on a crooked base.

If wooden slats are used, their humidity should not exceed 18%. Select all parts of the future structure as solid, straight and without knots. When using this material, you should know that this type of lathing is not suitable for a bathroom or kitchen.

Marking the perimeter for the frame is done from the most protruding area. Based on it, it will be possible to make the finishing layer of panels as even as possible. Using chalk, tape measure and slats, outlines are drawn to which the sheathing for the panels will correspond. To install the slats, use a plumb line with an electric drill and a level. The elements are fastened to each other and to the wall using screws and dowels.

The space between the slats should be:

  • on the wall – 400-500 mm;
  • on the ceiling - 300-400 mm.

On a curved wall, the panel sheathing is leveled using wood or plywood spacers. The building level checks how level the structure is. The space between the wall and the panel sheathing is filled with insulation. It is not necessary to do this, but you need to keep in mind that this place can easily be used for its intended purpose. Thanks to the insulation, it will not only become warmer, but also increase the sound insulation of the room.

Installation of the panels begins only after the installation of the sheathing has been completed.

Finishing walls with plastic panels has a number of advantages, which include high installation speed, excellent technical characteristics of the material, and no need to pre-level the walls. It is quite possible for people who do not have professional construction and repair skills to carry out such work. But if the installation of PVC lamellas does not cause any particular difficulties, then during the installation of the lathing a number of questions arise. How to make a sheathing for plastic panels will be discussed in our article.

Example of wooden lathing for plastic panels

Required materials and tools

To avoid downtime during the installation process due to searching for missing parts, you should prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. For work you will definitely need:

The following materials are used for installation of the sheathing:

  • wooden blocks;
  • galvanized profile;
  • plastic guides.

Each of these samples is quite easy to install and has proven itself during operation. There is no single recommendation on how to choose the right material for installation; preference should be given based on your financial capabilities or available remnants from previous repairs.

Calculation of materials for the frame

Don't forget to calculate the materials in advance

Any construction and installation work begins with preliminary calculations of the required materials and drawing up an estimate. Regardless of the materials used, the installation process and layout remain unchanged.

To assemble the sheathing, on which the panels will not bend and sag, you will initially need to install profile frames (bars) along the perimeter of each wall, and only then install the transverse slats.

Please note that the installation of slats around the perimeter of window and door openings is also a prerequisite.

  • Before making the sheathing, measure the height and width of the walls, as well as the perimeter of the doors and windows. You will also need these measurements to calculate the required number of plastic panels.
  • The specific gravity of the panels allows you to assemble the sheathing with a pitch between the slats of 50 cm or more. The distance between them depends on the quality and thickness of the plastic. The more durable the material is supposed to be used, the larger the gap can be left.
  • On a wall 250 cm high, you will need to fill the frame around the perimeter and place 4 transverse slats in it every 50 cm or 3 slats every 62 cm.
  • To attach the slats to the wall, use self-tapping screws (for wooden or adobe surfaces) or dowels and nails (for concrete and brick bases) with a pitch of 20 - 30 cm between them.

Based on the measurements obtained, you can easily calculate the required amount of consumables.

Marking and installation

Be sure to use a level when marking

The lathing, made in a single plane, is the key to a high-quality plastic-lined wall.

The most significant advantages of finishing walls with plastic panels include the ability to carry out installation without first leveling the rough base. The wall and ceiling may have significant unevenness and roughness. However, this does not mean at all that you will not have to carry out high-quality measurements and bring the sheathing into a single plane.

In multi-storey buildings, the same height of walls at all points of the room, as well as right angles, is the exception rather than the rule. Therefore, with the help of panels it is necessary not only to decorate the surface, but also to give the room the correct geometric shape.

Ceiling

Attaching panels to the ceiling sheathing

To begin installing the sheathing, start from the lowest corner. The first mark is left at a distance from the ceiling equal to the width of the profile used. If you plan to install built-in spotlights, then take into account the height of the soffit. In cases where there is a need to lower the ceiling, thereby reducing the height of the walls, a mark is placed at the desired point.

  1. Using a hydraulic or laser level, additional markings are made, drawing marks on each wall, retreating 10 - 15 cm from the corner.
  2. Connect the marks using a beating cable (a strong thread richly painted with dry powder).
  3. Mark the ceiling in increments of 50–60 cm.

The resulting lines serve as a guide for screwing the sheathing to the base.

Walls

For walls, it is extremely important to assemble the frame with the correct 90 degree angles. There is no way you can do this without a laser level or a construction angle.

Example of wall lathing

  1. First of all, bars or profiles are filled in the corners of the room. If necessary, additional gaskets are placed under them. It is important at this stage to position the slats so that the angle formed between the mating surfaces is straight. Check the resulting connections using a building angle.
  2. The profiles are fastened along the ceiling and floor coverings.
  3. Pull the cord between the upper and lower profiles, and, focusing on it, install the horizontal strips of the sheathing.
  4. Profile slats must be placed along the perimeter of window and door openings.

When installing a frame under a plastic structure on a balcony or loggia, they use the same calculations and methods. However, it makes sense to insulate the room by placing a layer of thermal insulation in strips between the profiles.

Features of a wooden frame

Ceiling sheathing for plastic lamellas, assembled from wooden blocks, is distinguished by its relatively low cost and insignificant weight. It perfectly withstands the weight of the plastic structure. The only drawback of wood is its ability to actively absorb moisture from the environment, which leads to its deformation during use. Based on these features, this material is not recommended for use in very wet areas. However, it is quite acceptable to assemble wooden sheathing in a residential area where a ventilation duct is installed and there is sufficient air exchange.

Example of a wooden frame in a bathroom

A wooden structure is often affected by mold infection, and it is not uncommon for it to become a place of residence for all kinds of bugs. To minimize the likelihood of unpleasant consequences, the wood is pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial compounds. In addition, today there are many products on the market with a hydrophobic effect; after coating, the wood loses its ability to absorb moisture.

If you want to maximize the service life of a wood structure, do not neglect and treat individual elements with special preserving impregnations.

  1. To facilitate the installation process, mark the locations of the screws on wooden blocks and drill them with a wood drill.
  2. Drill holes in the concrete base for dowels using countersunk nails.
  3. Align the holes in the slats and the base of the walls, and attach with hardware.
  4. When attaching to a wooden base, use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm.

Features of installation of galvanized profile lathing

Galvanized profile frame

Lathing made of galvanized profiles is installed extremely rarely; this is largely due to significant financial costs. However, in cases where there is a need to lower the ceiling, it is the metal frame that is assembled.

When purchasing metal profiles, pay attention to their markings. Depending on their purpose, they are ceiling-mounted, rack-mounted, or guide-mounted.

To mount the frame on the ceiling, use UD profile guides, which are placed around the perimeter of the room, securing them with their back to the rough base. After installation, the frames are inserted into the grooves of the CD profile.

When the profile is attached directly to the rough base, self-tapping screws or dowel nails are used. If there is a need to maintain a gap between them, use U-shaped hangers or anchors.

If for the installation of plasterboard ceilings it is necessary to install a cellular frame, then for fastening PVC panels a rack frame is sufficient.

Plastic frame

Wood and metal are not the only materials used for assembling sheathing. PVC guides have been in great demand in recent years. Such structures are durable, not affected by high humidity and corrosion, easy to install, and have a low weight.

Plastic profiles are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws or dowels with nails. But the panels are fixed with special clamps, reducing assembly time to a minimum and significantly saving time.

Instead of a conclusion

Despite the apparent complexity, installation of sheathing under plastic panels can be done independently with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. You just need to be patient and have a standard set of tools in your arsenal. The most important thing in this work is to make an accurate calculation of the required materials and assemble the structure in a single plane, observing right angles. We hope that after reading the material, you were able to get an answer to the question of how to make your own sheathing for installing plastic panels.

PVC panels are a practical and durable material, and therefore are widely used in. They are suitable for any room, and the variety of textures, shapes and colors allows you to make the interior not just cozy, but also very stylish. The fastening technology is quite simple, so decorating walls with plastic panels is great option for the beginning master.

Selecting panels for finishing

The range of plastic panels is so large that it is very difficult for an inexperienced buyer to understand. To avoid mistakes, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics in advance of this material and its varieties. You should only consider certified material, because low-quality panels do not have the required strength and quickly fade.


The main advantages of plastic panels:


The disadvantage of this material is its low impact resistance, so the panels should be handled with care during transportation and installation. Depending on the coating, the panels are divided into matte and glossy, and according to the technology of applying the pattern - into film and printed.


Standard sizes:

  • width from 200 to 350 mm;
  • length from 2700 to 3000 mm;
  • thickness from 8 to 10 mm.

The strength of the material depends not only on the thickness of the walls, but also on the number of stiffeners located inside the panel. To check how durable the material is, you need to press your finger on the surface - if the plastic bends, the panel will not last long.


Besides, You should not buy panels if:


Comparison table characteristics of PVC panels (for comparison, plastic panels with a flexo printing coating type, 0.25 m wide and 3 m long, are taken)

Indicator/panelPVC panel TM DecomaxAverage Chinese panelAverage European panel
Front surface thickness, mm2,5 1,5 2,0
Number of stiffeners, pcs.29 20 29
Condition of the stiffenerssmooth, without deformationsmooth, there are minor deformationssmooth, without deformation
PVC panel weight, kg/sq.m2,2 1,7 2,0
AppearanceThe coating is smooth, but with obvious gaps in the stiffening ribs, there are slight deformationsThe coating is smooth, without the appearance of stiffening ribs
Raw materialsafter slight pressure the panel becomes deformed, which proves the high chalk contentafter slight pressing, the panel returns to its original appearance, which indicates a low chalk content

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Preparatory stage


Preliminary calculations

You need to start by calculating the amount of finishing material so that you don’t have to overpay or go to the store for an additional batch. The panels can be mounted both vertically and horizontally, depending on the wishes of the apartment owners. When mounting vertically, the number of panels is calculated as follows: measure the length of the perimeter of the room, subtract the width of the openings and divide by the width of one panel. To the resulting number add 2-3 lamellas in reserve.

At horizontal installation measure the area of ​​the room minus doors and window openings and divided by the area of ​​one panel. Here the margin should be at least 10%, since the consumption of material for trimming increases. Additionally, you need to calculate the number of slats for the sheathing and fasteners. First, the height of the walls is divided by the sheathing pitch, which is usually 0.5 m, and multiplied by the perimeter of the room. The resulting number indicates the length of the slats in linear meters. By measuring the height of the corners and multiplying it by their number, we obtain the total footage of the corner profiles; to this number you need to add the perimeter of window and door openings.

Methods for attaching lamellas

There are three ways to secure the panels to the wall - using glue, self-tapping screws and clamps. The first method is suitable for very even and smooth walls; glue is used special for PVC, universal “Moment-installation” or “liquid nails”.


Application this method facilitates and reduces the cost of the installation process, since there is no need to attach the lathing. Disadvantages: it is impossible to replace a damaged panel; during subsequent repairs it is difficult to remove the covering from the wall.



Fastening with self-tapping screws is a reliable and convenient option that does not require a perfectly flat surface. To screw in the screws, you definitely need a screwdriver, otherwise the installation process will take a long time. Disadvantages of this method: it fits better with self-tapping screws wooden frame, therefore additional time is spent on cutting the timber and processing it


The third option is the most optimal. The clamps are conveniently and quickly attached to the sheathing and securely fix the panels to the wall. The lathing is mounted from a metal profile, assembly of the covering is carried out effortlessly. A damaged lamella can be easily replaced with a new one; dismantling the finish also does not take much time.


Tools and necessary materials

During the work process, everything should be at hand, so materials and tools for installation are prepared in advance. You will need:

  • fine-toothed hacksaw;
  • pencil and tape measure;
  • level;
  • square;
  • plastic panels;
  • slats or plastic profile;
  • dowel-nails, screws or clamps;
  • screwdriver;
  • perforator;
  • antiseptic composition;
  • sealant;
  • ceiling plinth.

Preparing the walls

Before covering the walls with panels, you need to clear the old coating, seal every single crack, noticeable defects and treat the surface with an antifungal agent. Thanks to this, dust will not accumulate under the plastic and mold will not develop, which negatively affects the microclimate in the room. If installation will be carried out on a frame, it is not necessary to additionally level the surface.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Installation of plastic panels


Step 1. Marking the walls

The sheathing should be fastened strictly according to the level, this will help to avoid distortions. In order not to measure out each rail, you should make markings on the walls. The bottom row of the sheathing should be located 1-2 cm above the floor, so mark a point at this height on the wall with a pencil, and then use a level to draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter. Exactly the same line is drawn under the ceiling or along the edge of the trim if the walls are not sheathed to the full height. Next, measure 40-50 cm upward from the bottom line, place a beacon, and so on until the very top. Strictly parallel lines are drawn through the beacons along the perimeter of the walls. The marking is ready.

The panels must be attached to the sheathing perpendicularly, so the horizontal frame is sheathed vertically, and vice versa. To make markup for vertical sheathing, the first line is drawn in the corner from ceiling to floor using a plumb line. Next, mark the second corner, and then draw the remaining lines in increments of 50 cm.

Step 2. Installation of the sheathing



If wood is used for the sheathing, all slats must be primed with an antiseptic agent in advance. Along the marking lines, holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill at a distance of 50 cm, then slats are applied, leveled horizontally and secured to the wall. Where the walls are uneven, wooden wedges are placed under the sheathing. If wiring runs along the wall, it must be hidden under the trim. To do this, take measurements, drill holes in the wall and secure the wires with clamps so that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing.



Step 3. Attaching the slats

The first lamella is installed in the far corner from the entrance, which is considered the most noticeable.


Take measurements and, if necessary, cut the panel to length with a hacksaw. One edge of the panel is inserted into the side molding, applied to the corner and secured to the sheathing from the back.

The second lamella is inserted into the fastening groove of the first, the joints are pressed tightly and fixed to the frame slats.



To achieve maximum sealing of the joints, the side edges are lightly coated with silicone before insertion. All subsequent elements are mounted in exactly the same way.



For switches and sockets in panels sharp knife cut holes, and after installation close these areas plastic boxes. The last lamella most often requires cutting in width, so first try it on the wall, mark the cutting line with a pencil and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

Step 4. Installing moldings

After installing all the elements, the surface should look monolithic and smooth, without gaps at the seams and around the perimeter. To do this, all corners, joints and connections are covered with special plastic moldings. Their design allows you to carefully insert the edges of the panels on both sides, making the corners look much more attractive.


Finally, decorative molding is installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and plastic molding is attached around the perimeter of the floor. At this point, finishing the walls with PVC panels is considered complete. With careful use, the panels do not lose their attractiveness for a long time and do not require repairs.

Video - Wall decoration with plastic panels

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