If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.

Window system components

Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. IN plastic systems This insert is made of plastic; metal is used in metal-plastic ones.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of a window unit is the frame

The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:

frame – the main structural part;
if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
double glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture generated by differences temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself?

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

dismantling the old window unit;
installation of a new window.

Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, the first stage will require approximately an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.

If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from the manufacturer, who for a long time works in the market, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single chamber or two-chamber windows in winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that carries out installation work, then the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. At self-installation You can obtain a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order for the windows to be installed in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure.

Before you start measuring, don't miss important point– what type of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.

Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which components your design will be made: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same; you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located from the floor to at different distances . In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.

How to correctly measure windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.

The base will need to be cleaned before installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

Ready plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and leveled horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in.

Places for attaching anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that when significant loads wind, the frame structure may warp or sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or windows will be installed at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.

Installation on anchor plates

There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose correct depth installations

The installation sequence must be followed:

Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
then attach it to the wall;
after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms; to do this, open and close the window;
after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and the external environment, the material loses its properties and is destroyed. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

To be fulfilled correct installation both on windows and, follow simple rules:

we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has long term uses:

you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
It is imperative to protect the polyurethane foam from direct contact sun rays to avoid its destruction;
it would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only polyurethane foam: It is imperative to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all installation rules, you can successfully install window design yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.

A load-bearing wall seems like an insurmountable obstacle, but modern technical means make it quite easy to make an opening for a door or window. We will talk about the technology of forming openings using hand tools and the rules for strengthening them.

General technology

Making an opening is a responsible technological operation associated with the risk of destruction building structures and danger to life and health. Therefore, all work should be performed in strict accordance with the regulations. The process of cutting the opening itself consists of three stages:

Marking, and, if necessary, coordination and approval of the redevelopment plan.
Direct dismantling of part of the building structure.
Strengthening the opening when it comes to working with a main wall.

A professional approach involves the use of special wall-cutting equipment, but you can make an opening yourself, using only hand tools: a hammer drill, an angle grinder and additional equipment for them, it is also advisable to have a construction vacuum cleaner. The complexity of the process will be higher, however, with the right approach you can achieve a neat design of the perimeter, subsequently spending a minimum of effort on finishing.

The main difficulty of working with hand tools is the inability to complete a cut line in one technological operation. The cutting depth of an angle grinder is 60-80 mm, so to make an opening in interior partition requires at least trimming on both sides. If we are talking about a permanent wall, we have to remove the material in steps, each time developing a wide groove for the power tool to access the cutting area. When a through cut is made along the perimeter of the opening, the core is felled, fragmented and removed in pieces weighing 10-15 kg.

Wall material

There is a huge difference in what material the wall is made of. When cutting and crushing, brick, concrete and gas silicate behave differently; this must be taken into account when dismantling.

If you have to deal with aerated concrete, the impact method of destruction is not very good; using a hammer drill you can only make a chaotic system of holes. It would be much more correct to make a large hole in the corners of the opening, and then cut along the marking line with a regular hacksaw or aerated concrete tape.

Brick chips well, so The best way work - cutting grooves along the contour of the opening, followed by crushing the core. It’s better to do the same with hollow, thin-walled materials like cinder blocks: a preliminary cut will make it easy to refine the opening after making the passage.

It is most difficult to make an opening in monolithic concrete walls. For apartment partitions up to 100 mm thick the best way— contour cutting with a diamond disc along combined markings on both sides. Cutting is carried out “in a running start” to create technological gaps that allow free removal of the core. The main problem is the reinforcement, for cutting which the gap can be expanded to 80-100 mm. It is worth noting that cutting openings in structural concrete of strength class B30 and higher can only be done with special wall-cutting equipment; the impact method of dismantling is prohibited in such cases.

Openings in interior partitions

Partitions up to 100-150 mm thick are easier to cut, but careful alignment of the markings is required, because cutting is carried out on both sides. To align the markings, two control points are enough - the upper corners of the opening, in which through holes are drilled. When working, you need to carefully monitor the perpendicular position of the drill.

The control points must be connected with a horizontal line, and two vertical ones on both sides must be dropped using a plumb line. Afterwards, cutting lines are drawn with an indentation of 15-20 mm on both sides of the contour markings. In the room where it is planned to remove and disassemble the core, the marking should be 10-15 mm larger to form a wedge-shaped gap.

Along the outer marking lines, a cut is made with a grinder to the entire effective depth of the disc. You can chop the core of the groove with a chisel or even with a hand, hammering it into one of the cuts. To select material from the groove, we can recommend crushing it by drilling 20-24 mm holes in the central part of the cut in increments of 10-15 cm - such fragments are easily removed with a hammer.

Openings in load-bearing walls

Difficulties when working with capital structures mainly lie in their significant thickness: even with a two-sided approach, overlap of the cuts is not ensured. Therefore, there are only two options for making an opening in a load-bearing wall: contour drilling and step trimming.

It is reasonable to drill an opening around the perimeter when the wall thickness is over 250 mm, when the cutting method becomes irrelevant due to the large number of steps. For contour drilling, it is necessary to temporarily attach two 40x40 mm bars to the wall, the gap between which is the same throughout and is 14-18 mm. Using a drill of the same diameter, it is necessary to drill in increments of 20-30 mm, holding the tool strictly horizontally. Next, drilling is done at an angle of 30-45° to weaken the walls between the holes. For the same purpose, you can first expand the holes with a larger diameter drill.

Removal of the remaining bonds is carried out with a hammer drill - percussion work to clear the cut is allowed even in structural concrete, however, it is impossible to cut reinforcement in this way. It must be cleared of concrete and cut using a bolt cutter, or cut with a hacksaw. Before the reinforcement ties are cut, it makes sense to split the core with several drill lines to make removal easier.

Important! Unlike professional household tool is not intended for continuous long-term operation, it must be given rest in accordance with the set duration of activation.

Strengthening the opening

Please note that the manufacture of openings in the load-bearing walls of apartment buildings is permitted, but only subject to the approval of the reconstruction and approval of the project to comply with technical conditions. One of the mandatory requirements in such cases is to strengthen the opening to restore the load-bearing capacity of critical structures. And although it is not necessary to develop a project for the reconstruction of a private house, strengthening must still be carried out.

It is made with angle steel, the width of the shelf being at least 1/4 of the wall thickness. The upper crossbar is inserted into a pre-made cut. Along the plane of the wall, sections of steel strip are welded to it, which are fastened with a through or anchor fastening into the wall pillar at least 20 cm from the top of the opening. The length of the horizontal jumper must be at least one third greater than the width of the manufactured passage on each side. Once the top rail is installed, vertical cuts can be made to remove the core. After this, the corners of the lintel are fastened together with inserts made of steel strip, butt-welded to the corner. In the same way, the side edges are strengthened by installing the corners in the support of the lintel.

In some cases, when the dimensions of the opening exceed normal ones, as happens when two rooms are combined, it is reinforced not with rolled materials, but frame structures and farms. After this, the strengthening system is sheathed with gypsum board, due to which it is possible to completely conceal the metal structures without disturbing the interior.

Video on the topic

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What you need to know about window openings - 4 important rules for a novice builder

In modern housing construction, few people adhere to established standards and restrictions on window openings, so each owner of a home under construction tries to choose their shape and size based on their own taste and personal preferences.

In some cases, this approach leads to the fact that a ready-made window suddenly turns out to be too small or too large, and sometimes even turns out to be installed in the wrong place.

In order to avoid such situations, in this article I propose to consider the main issues regarding the correct choice of the type and location of windows, as well as common standard sizes window openings for residential and utility rooms.

Rule 1. What criteria should a window meet?

For those homeowners who want to install window openings in their future home in accordance with GOST, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the regulatory and technical document GOST 23166-99 “Window blocks. Are common technical specifications" At the same time, I would like to warn you right away that this document contains a lot of specialized technical information, which in most cases may turn out to be incomprehensible and useless for many private developers.

So that the reader does not rack his brains over this question, I will further try accessible language explain the main provisions of the current State standard on windows:

When choosing technical characteristics for a future window opening, first of all, you need to be guided by the room in which the window will be located and for what purposes it will be used;
The total glazing area of one or more window openings must provide free transmission required quantity natural sunlight, which should be sufficient to avoid the use of artificial lighting during daylight hours;
All dimensions of window openings according to GOST are, in principle, standardized, however, in accordance with current standards, they can vary within fairly wide limits. Therefore, in the next section I plan to pay more attention to this issue.

Sound insulation class, air permeability and water resistance class, light transmission coefficient, heat transfer resistance value, and sound insulation value must be within the established limits of this regulatory and technical document;
Estimated service life of wooden and plastic frames must be at least 20 and 40 years, respectively, the service life of fittings and double-glazed windows must be at least 20 years, and the service life of a set of rubber seals must be at least 5 years.
The number of opening/closing cycles of swing or sliding sashes, while maintaining normal operation, must be at least 20,000.

During the design and construction of a house, I recommend using standard sizes window openings for plastic windows, since the production of double-glazed windows is of irregular shape or non-standard sizes may cost significantly more.

Rule 2. Typical sizes of window openings in apartment buildings

Window and door openings in apartments of multi-storey buildings are part of the external load-bearing walls of the building, therefore changing their dimensions or making any other changes to the design is strictly prohibited by the current Construction Norms and Rules (SNiP). At the same time, to replace or install new windows, homeowners need to know at least the approximate size of the external glazing in all rooms of the apartment.

In most cases, each type and each series of multi-story buildings has standard windows, and to make it easier for the reader to navigate, below I will give approximate sizes of window openings in typical residential apartments:

Houses of the old housing stock, built at the beginning of the last century, are distinguished by elongated rooms, thick walls and high ceilings, so the window openings in such houses most often have a rectangular vertical shape and are quite large in size:

In such apartments, the width of a single-leaf window can range from 850 to 1150 mm, and the height on average is about 1900 mm, but sometimes can reach 2100 mm;
The two sashes usually have the same height, but their width can be from 1200 to 1500 mm;
Triple-hung windows are rare, but they are maximum dimensions can reach 2400x2100 mm.

The so-called “Stalinist houses”, which were built in the period from the 30s to the 60s of the last century, in addition to high ceilings, differ in large and spacious rooms With separate layout, so single-leaf windows are almost never found in such apartments:

Double-leaf windows have two standard sizes: 1150x1950 mm, and 1500x1900 mm;
For three-leaf windows at that time there was one standard - 1700x1900 mm.

Typical five-story residential buildings, which were built from the early 50s to the mid-80s of the last century, are usually called “Khrushchev buildings”. They have cramped, uncomfortable layouts with small kitchens and small walk-through rooms, and the standard ceiling height is no more than 2500 mm. For the manufacture of windows in such apartments, two standard sizes were used, and they can be easily determined even without a tape measure, by the shape and width of the window sill:

If the window has a wide, massive window sill, then its dimensions are, for a double-leaf opening - 1450x1500 mm, and for a three-leaf opening - 2040x1500 mm;
In apartments with a narrow window sill, which practically does not protrude beyond the plane of the wall, the dimensions of double-leaf and three-leaf windows are 1300x1305 mm and 2040x1350 mm, respectively.

Newer "Brezhnevka" apartments were built in the 70s and 80s, along with the "Khrushchevka" apartments, and their main positive difference is the improved layout and larger kitchen area. Typical projects There are several series of such houses, and in each series the window sizes are slightly different:

Of all the Brezhnev cars, the 600 series is distinguished by the most large windows, since in such apartments the double-leaf opening has dimensions of 2380x1420 mm, and the three-leaf opening has dimensions of 2690x1420 mm;
In the 602 series, the double-leaf window has a size of 1210x1450 mm, and the three-leaf window has a size of 2100x1450 mm;
The 606th series has the smallest windows: double-leaf - 1450x1410 mm, and three-leaf - 1700x1410 mm.

Modern new buildings are considered to be apartment buildings, which were built from the 90s of the last century to the present. Typical projects modern houses are presented in more than 40 different series, so I will give the window opening sizes for several of the most common typical series:

137th series two doors - 1150x1420 mm, three doors - 1700x1420 mm;
504th series two doors - 1450x1410 mm, three doors - 1700x1410 mm;
504D series two doors - 1420x1100 mm, three doors - 1420x2030 mm;
505 series two doors - 1410x1450 mm, three doors - 1410x2030 mm;
600.11 series two doors - 1410x1450 mm, three doors - 1410x2050 mm;
The 600D series has only two sashes, and in this case the dimensions of the window openings can be 1420x2680 mm, 1100x2360 mm or 1420x2360 mm.

I would like to remind you that all sizes shown are approximate and are intended to approximate calculation the cost of making new windows. I strongly do not recommend using the specified values when ordering window frames, since in each specific case, all measurements for a plastic window must be carried out directly at the installation site.

Rule 3. Sizes and location of windows in private houses

When designing and building private houses, I advise you to choose the size and shape of window openings taking into account the requirements of the same normative document GOST 23166-99 “Window blocks. General technical conditions". At the same time, I should note that private developers have more room for maneuver, since this document does not establish any strict boundaries and restrictions:

In order not to disrupt the conceptual style of the residential building project, when developing the size and number of window openings, you need to take into account the height of the ceilings, the total number of floors, the area and width of each room, as well as other architectural features of the building;

The optimal height and width of windows should be determined based on the total area of the room and the required level;
The glazing area and standard sizes of window openings in private houses are regulated by SNiP P-A862. According to the requirements of this standard, in living and sleeping areas the total area of the light opening must be at least 1/8 of the total area of each room;
For glazing of non-residential and utility premises, these dimensions in a private house can be reduced up to 4 times. Thus, in a toilet, bathroom, storage room or boiler room, the window area can be no more than 3% of the total area of the room;

In regions with a cold climate and short daylight hours, it is best to orient the windows towards the south or southwest side of the house;
In hot climates with a large number of sunny days a year, to reduce the influence of the sun on the internal microclimate, windows should be located on the north or east side of the house;
The ease of use and functional qualities of windows in various rooms largely depend on the height at which the window sill is located relative to the level of the finished floor. From my own experience, I recommend using the following values:

In the living room, bedroom or children's playroom optimal height from the floor level to the window sill is 700-900 mm. This size provides a good panoramic view and the most efficient transmission of natural sunlight;
For the kitchen, the height of the window sill can be from 800 to 1200 mm. This is due to the fact that the window sill should be located on the same level as the sink and kitchen countertops;

In a toilet, bathroom or bathhouse, the height of the window sill is usually made at least 1600 mm. This is done in order to ensure quality natural ventilation, and at the same time make it as difficult as possible for strangers to spy on residents during intimate procedures;
On insulated balconies, verandas and closed summer terraces, the window sill board should lie on top of the side railing, and its height can range from 700 to 1100 mm.
In utility and utility rooms, the light opening is usually made in the form of a low window or a wide horizontal window, which is installed at a level of 1600-1800 mm from the floor.

When choosing a location for installing windows in country house, I advise you to pay attention not only to technical aspects, but also to the aesthetic side of the issue. There are no trifles in this matter, for example, neat beautiful masonry brick and stylish exterior decoration window openings have a significant positive impact on the appearance of the facade, and on the aesthetic appearance of the entire house as a whole.

Rule 3. Features of the installation of window openings in a brick house

To install a window in the wall brick house, in accordance with technical project, starting from a given height, several rows of bricks are not laid, resulting in brickwork a window opening is formed.

In order not to go into technical details of the work of masons, below I will talk about what a quarter is in window opening, what it is used for, and how to make an opening for a wooden or metal-plastic window in a brick house.

I want to say right away that the width of the opening is inside houses should always be made a few centimeters wider than the design dimensions of the window frame. Thus, in the top view, a ledge is formed in the side walls, which is called a quarter;

During installation, a wooden or plastic window frame is installed from the inside of the house into the extension of the slope, and rests its front part on the rear edge of the quarter;
This ensures high-quality thermal and waterproofing of the window. This is achieved due to the fact that cold wind and slanting rain from the street will not be able to directly penetrate into the gap between the outer slope and the window frame.
After the laying of the side walls is completed, the top row of bricks must be laid top floor window. It is a horizontal lintel, which must bear the load from all other rows of bricks and ceilings located above the window opening;
A thin reinforced concrete beam with a width of 250-300 mm, a metal channel or a thick-walled steel angle with a cross-section of at least 120x120 mm is most often used as a lintel;

The main disadvantage of steel lintels is that the metal has high thermal conductivity, so so-called cold bridges are formed above the windows. To minimize the chance of low temperatures entering your home, decorative finishing the outside of the house should be made using thermal insulation materials;
The lintel must be of such length that after installation it completely covers the window opening, and extends from above onto the side brick walls by at least 100 mm on each side;
After installing the lintel, I advise you to once again check the size of the window opening, and then proceed to further laying the next rows of bricks above the window opening;
Installation of window blocks, sealing the remaining cracks and fine finishing the inside is usually done at the very end, after the entire house has been built and the roof has been installed, so I plan to talk about installing windows separately in the next article.

To make an arched window of a semicircular or oval shape with your own hands, I recommend using two metal corners or a channel of a suitable cross-section as a ceiling. To do this, you need one of the shelves in each corner, or two narrow shelves channel, using a grinder, make many deep cuts at a distance of 50-100 mm from each other. After this, it will be easy to bend any profiled metal into an arc along the required radius.

Rule 4. Arranging a window opening in a house made of aerated concrete

The manufacture of window openings in an aerated concrete house is generally carried out according to the same principles as in brick houses. The exception is the load-bearing elements and the upper horizontal lintels, since they are cast from monolithic reinforced concrete directly at the installation site.

For the manufacture of vertical load-bearing elements special hollow ones are used at home aerated concrete blocks. After they are installed on top of each other, a vertical cavity in the form of a well is formed inside them;

Such blocks perform the functions of permanent formwork. A reinforcement bar is installed inside the resulting well, and then liquid is poured to the very top concrete mortar;
After the concrete solution hardens, a monolithic structure is formed inside the aerated concrete blocks. reinforced concrete column, which has a high bearing capacity. I recommend initially including such columns in the project, and placing them in the corners of the house, as well as along the edges of wide window and door openings;
The upper window coverings have a similar internal structure, only U-shaped open-top blocks made from heavy grades of aerated concrete are used as permanent formwork for pouring concrete mortar.

Inside the finished window opening, you need to install and firmly secure vertical supports from scraps of thick bars or steel pipes;

Fix a thick, flat board flat on top of them, and then lay out U-shaped blocks so that with their lower plane they form the upper edge of the window opening;
You need to lay a reinforcement frame in the resulting hollow gutter, weld its ends to the protruding reinforcement bars of the vertical columns, and then fill the entire gutter to the top with liquid concrete mortar;
After the solution hardens, a rigid lintel of monolithic reinforced concrete is formed above the window opening, closed on all sides with aerated concrete blocks.

IN aerated concrete houses preparing window openings for PVC installation windows can begin only after the final hardening and maturation of the monolithic concrete mixture. Depending on the brand of concrete solution, this period can last from 14 to 28 days.

Aerated concrete has an open, finely porous structure, due to which it strongly absorbs moisture, therefore, under the influence of precipitation, it can crack and collapse over time. To prevent this from happening, I advise you not to waste time, and immediately after construction, carry out protective and decorative decoration on the outside of aerated concrete houses, using hydrophobic, moisture-repellent finishing materials.

Conclusion

In this article, I talked about installing windows in brick and aerated concrete houses, and deliberately did not mention wooden log houses here, because installation of windows and sealing in wooden house– this is the topic of a completely separate article. The fact is that when building log cabins and frame-panel houses made of wood, you need to take into account a lot of specific points that are not inherent in houses made of mineral building materials.

To visually consolidate the information received, I recommend watching the attached video in this article, and if you have any comments or suggestions, I am ready to discuss them in the comment form.

September 22, 2016

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One of the most important stages in the construction of a building is the laying of windows; in this case, a certain amount of brick will be required, which will depend on the size of the window. Since the window opening violates the integrity and strength monolithic wall, the reliability of operation of the entire house depends on the quality of its implementation.

The window opening must be reliably supported, because... violates the integrity of the structure of the house.

A window opening in brickwork begins to be formed with an element called a purlin, which is the basis of a brick window. It is fixed on folded brick walls. Purlins are made from several types of material:

concrete lintels made at a company that produces construction products or independently;
metal channels;
standard metal corners.

The material for creating the purlin is selected depending on the expected load on the wall of the house in which there will be a window, or on the convenience of the organization construction work on its installation. The dimensions of the purlin, according to the standards indicated in SNiP, are determined by adding 1.5-2 m on both sides to the width of the window opening in brick walls.

Channel purlins

A metal channel is one of the popular ways to create a lintel that forms a brick window with a small purlin. A channel is a device that is a corner made of metal, usually 12-14 centimeters in half-brick piers and 24-27 centimeters in whole-brick piers.

A condition for the strength of a structure using a channel with standard dimensions of 100 × 100 mm (100 × 75 mm) is the reliability of the connection between the masonry of the main walls and the walls above the window of the house under construction.

The channel must be laid so that the material laid out on it fits very tightly to its edges. A channel lintel is usually no more than 150 cm long. Compliance with these requirements for the channel dimensions ensures that the window span will not bend and the brickwork above it will not sag. When finishing windows with facing bricks, the outer surface of the channel will be closed, and the channel will be visible only from inside the building.

Concrete lintel

Brick windows are laid in two types:

factory-produced jumpers;
jumpers made independently by the installer at the construction site using the pouring method.

Installation of a finished factory concrete product is carried out very quickly, and its reliability is guaranteed. But purchasing a ready-made concrete lintel with the required dimensions, which are most often non-standard in the individual construction of a low-rise building, may not be possible. In addition, the weight of the finished industrial product is more than 100 kg, and therefore requires the use of special equipment at an additional cost.

Making concrete runs for non-standard windows made of brick is independently organized according to the following algorithm:

The surface must be thoroughly cleaned for future masonry of the opening.

thorough cleaning of the brickwork surfaces from cement mortar residues on both sides of the future window;
high-quality soil coating of the sides of the window opening;
assembly of wooden formwork for installing the lintel;
installation of reinforcement in a future run;
pouring a small layer of concrete mortar into the formwork so that it does not leak through the formwork boards and so that these boards do not sag;
laying a mesh of reinforcement into the poured layer of mortar;
continuation of filling the lintel;
installation of a second reinforcement filling in the concrete solution;
completion of pouring the concrete solution;
dismantling the formwork (it must be borne in mind that it is not always possible to remove the lower part of the formwork).

Using this method of work, pour the concrete solution slowly so that it has time to set evenly.

Expanding the window opening

If you need to expand window openings in brickwork by a quarter of a brick (6 cm), this can be easily done without preparatory work to strengthen the lintel. If you need to significantly expand a window opening or doorway in a finished wall or connect 2 window openings, you need to follow important rules. To do this, the entire window unit is completely dismantled, the existing window lintel is removed and reliable supports are created for a new one. One of several ways to carry out such construction work is to install a steel lintel that reinforces the opening, or a reinforced concrete product.

Let's look at how to increase the width of a window opening in a brick house. If old masonry If it is fragile, you can remove part of it in the place where you plan to expand the window and lay out the slopes again. If the masonry of window openings is strong, then they use the technique of undercutting the side walls of the opening, after which they cut out grooves for a new lintel, the wall in the place of which is then carefully leveled with a high-strength cement solution. After the cement has completely hardened, a beam is inserted into the cut-out grooves, under which special devices are placed to support it from below, from the outside of the building and from the interior.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_0pYSMDgJk

Then they dismantle the partition where it is planned to expand the window opening in the brick wall. Remove the racks, fill all the gaps in the wall cement mortar, installing a new window frame. After this, the old slopes are dismantled and new ones are installed, maximum quantity dressings with load-bearing wall. Then the lining is done with facing materials.

Cladding brick windows

Decorating windows with facing bricks is an excellent method of decorating window areas.

It emphasizes the contour, adds volume and highlights the windows on the façade of the building. Cladding a window with contrasting or relief brick allows you to almost completely change the facade. Facing brick gives the building a more neat and elegant look. Finally, you can make beautiful cornices from decorative bricks.

The surroundings of the windows must be carefully calculated and symmetrical in relation to the masonry of the main walls and the corners of the building. Original beautiful windows will complete the appearance of the facade provided that the cracks are carefully sealed using special masonry or the use of brick platbands.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uewkMRhsqY

The harmonious appearance of the facade directly depends on the size and shape of the windows, or more precisely, on how symmetrical they are relative to the corners of the building and the width of the partitions. It is necessary to comply with certain standards when constructing the walls of buildings, but in practice it is often possible to observe inconsistencies that it is advisable to eliminate before laying facing bricks.

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Cladding window openings with bricks: 3 popular methods

Greetings. Today you will learn about how to lay window openings from facing bricks. The topic is not easy, since cladding through finishing masonry is carried out by highly qualified specialists. Our task is for you to carefully familiarize yourself with the technology, look at photo reports and get a general idea of how this work is done.

A few words about facing the opening with brick

Framing windows with bricks - This is an essential step in building a house.. The quality of the cladding determines the appearance, strength and durability of the facade itself, as well as the heat-saving characteristics of the slopes around the perimeter of the windows.

Laying brick window openings can be done in two ways:

rough masonry for subsequent plastering - there are no special requirements for aesthetic characteristics and accuracy of execution
finishing masonry - requires professional execution, since the accuracy of the gaps, the accuracy of applying the masonry mortar, etc. are important.

Of course, having seen what the instructions are for performing these works, you will not become professionals. But, you will know the main steps that will have to be completed, you will know how and with what tools these steps are performed, which means you can try to repeat what you saw during the construction of a dacha or country house.

Method one - covering a rectangular opening

I bring to your attention a photo report with the technology of covering a window opening with masonry bricks in two rows, which differ in color.

The following materials and tools were used to carry out construction work:

Steel corner 200×25 mm (equal flange);
Ceramic hollow masonry brick;
Cement-sand masonry mortar;
Anti-corrosion primer for external work;
Bulgarian woman with cutting disc for metal and with a disk for cutting bricks
Water level on the short and long bars;
Master OK;
Chisel for forming a seam.

The instructions for preparatory and construction work are as follows:

We measure the width of the opening and add to this number 2 times 2/3 of the width of the brick;
We measure the resulting distance on the corner and cut it to this size;

We treat the prepared corner with a rust converter or anti-corrosion agent if there are obvious pockets of corrosion;

We drill through holes at the ends of the corner, through which we fasten it with anchor bolts in the upper part of the opening;

Since the aesthetic qualities of the facade are important, we place the corner so that the vertical shelf is directed into the house. As a result, the exterior will be finished with clean masonry, and the interior will be leveled with leveling plastering one way or another.

We count the number of bricks that will fit along the length of the fixed square, provided that they are placed on a spoon (edge);

We prepare required amount brick of a dark color and cut it to length so that the butt comes out flush with the side masonry, and so that there is a protrusion at the back that will lie on the corner shelf;

We pull the cord along the level of the front part of the side masonry;
We lay the prepared brick on the corner along the cord, while maintaining the same gap;

In order to maintain an equal gap, we use a template. The easiest way is to use a flat metal rod 10 mm thick as a template. We insert the rod into the gap between adjacent bricks for the entire length and make sure that the side of the bed on one side and the other is equally tightly adjacent to the surface of the rod.

After the layout is completed, take chalk and place marks on the corner in accordance with the location of the vertical seam;
Prepare masonry mortar;

We lay the brick so that the gaps are filled with mortar;

We set the poke of the brick according to a tense level, and level the spoon in the upper part according to the spirit level by tapping the surface of the masonry with a hammer.

Using a narrow chisel or a specially made scraper, we form a masonry joint so that it is located 3 mm, not reaching the surface of the brick;
After the seam is formed, sweep the front surface with a brush to remove the adhering solution;
According to the size of the upper part of the dark brick, which was laid in the first row, we cut the light brick;
We stretch the cord in the opening as was done in the first row;
We make the layout of the second row according to the template;

It may be that the bricks of the first and second rows differ in thickness, as, for example, happened in this photo report. In this case, it is not necessary to ensure that the gaps match. Let the gaps in the first row be thicker, and in the second top row they will be a little narrower, since the brick is wider there.

Prepare masonry mortar;

We lay the brick on edge in the same way as in the first row;
After the masonry is separated, we form the seam of the second row.

So, I talked about how to lay brick over the windows and, as you can see, there is nothing particularly difficult about it, although the work in the photo report is carried out by a high-class master. Try it, maybe this stage of construction work will turn out no worse than in the photo.

To ensure that intractable questions do not arise during work, I offer explanations to the instructions.

Comments on construction work

How to make masonry mortar?

Because we use hollow bricks special requirements there is no requirement for the strength and adhesiveness of the solution, that is, adhesion will be ensured in any case. Therefore, we prepare a mixture with traditional proportions - 3 parts sand to 1 part cement.

Mix the mixture by gradually adding water and stirring. As a result, the solution should not drain, but should not fall off the trowel.

By the way, after the solution has been mixed, let it sit for about five minutes, and then mix again. This is done in order to achieve a uniform consistency.

How to apply the solution to a brick so as not to stain the poke, which will be visible on the facade?

Take the bar and apply it as shown in the photo. After this, we scoop up the solution with a trowel and apply it to the bed. The bar will not allow the solution to drain onto the poke, which must be left clean.

After we have learned how to make a ceiling in a rectangular opening, it’s time to learn how to make a round window out of brick.

Method two - laying a round opening

This time we are not interested in how to cut a window in a brick wall, since the opening is completely made, moreover, the wall is insulated and only needs external cladding. And if the previous photo report showed work on the upper part of the opening, now let’s look at how it’s installed facing brick around windows with a round shape.

To complete the planned work you will need:

Hollow ceramic brick;
Metal profiles (beacons);
Board;
Cement-sand masonry mortar;
Grinder with cutting disc;
Spirit level and plumb line;
Trowel, hammer and other accessories commonly used in construction work.

In our case, the finishing masonry is brought to a level one row below the edge of the window. That is, all that remains is to complete the cladding in a circle. We do it this way:

Laying it down metal profiles on top of an already laid row with an indentation from the opening half the width of 1 brick;

Attention! When laying out, make sure that the seams in the laid row coincide with the seams every other row. That is, you need to ensure that the bricks are laid in a staggered pattern along the entire wall. This is necessary both to ensure high bond strength and to provide an attractive appearance finished masonry

We make the layout for another two or three rows up to approximately half the height of the opening;
After the layout is completed, we determine the center of the round opening and, as shown in my drawing, fasten the board so that it coincides with the center.

Where the board intersects the center of the circle, we screw a piece of the beacon onto it, so that when rotated, the beacon coincides with the perimeter of the opening at all points;

We insert a pencil into the perforation of the improvised lighthouse compass so that it runs along the edge of the opening and draw a circular line on the front side of the layout;

After the circle has been drawn, we number the bricks in the order in which they are located in the layout;

Next, we make a cut along the drawn circular line;
Let's analyze the layout;

We prepare the masonry mortar and lay the brick in the cladding based on the numbering applied;
We draw the radius of the circle, which is laid out with bricks on a flat surface;
We count how many bricks will fit around the perimeter of the circle, provided that they are placed on the edge;
We prepare half of the required number of bricks and cut them in half;
Next, to make the cladding look beautiful, we give the pieces of brick a trapezoidal shape when viewed from the edge;

We begin to lay out a circle of prepared halves, maintaining a distance of 10 mm along all seams;
After we have reached just above half the height of the opening, we take a break for a day to allow the solution to set;

If there is a circle left that was cut out of the opening, we set it up as a support on which we will lay out the brick halves along the perimeter of the circle;
Next, we continue to lay out the rest of the circle and also take a break until the solution sets;

Then we pull out the support, since the circle itself is strong; in addition, the shape of the bricks used makes it even stronger;

The circle is so strong that additional rows can be laid on top of it without the threat of collapse

After this, we lay out horizontal rows of bricks to the very top.

Before laying a new row on the mortar, do not forget to try on each brick so that the resulting seams match and all the gaps are the same.

So, we looked at another method by which windows are faced with brick. And finally, I suggest you briefly familiarize yourself with the method of cladding an arched opening.

Method three - construction of the ceiling of the arched opening

Arched window openings in brickwork are faced in the same way as round windows, but everything is much simpler, since there is much less work.

So, in the photo you can see the side parts of the opening, between which a support made in the shape of an arch is assembled. The support frame is made of a 50×25 mm block and pieces of plywood 13 mm thick.

On initial stage The brick layout was carried out in order to determine the required quantity, taking into account the same gap.

After this, solid brick was laid along the entire top. After the entire row was laid out, a seam was formed at all the gaps. Then there was a break necessary for the mortar to set, after which the rest of the wall was laid out.

The supports from the opening can be removed only after complete polymerization of the masonry mortar or during the installation of frames for installing glazing.