A wall is being blown through in a monolithic brick house. What to do with a burst wall made of foam blocks

During construction residential buildings often used concrete slabs ceilings These reinforced concrete products are used both for and in the construction of walls. They are made from high-quality concrete using a reinforced frame. The reliability and durability of buildings mainly depends on the quality of the materials used.

Floor slab structures

Overlapping with a monolithic slab

They are characterized by increased strength, which allows them to be used in places with an increased risk of sagging. Maximum protection against various deformations, but at the same time poor sound insulation. It is heavy, which is a significant disadvantage of this type during construction.

Hollow-core structures

The most popular, due to the lighter weight of the product. Thanks to the voids, these slabs have low thermal conductivity and good sound insulation. Manufacturing costs are significantly lower than in production monolithic slabs. They are often made of ribbed or cellular concrete.

Mainly manufactured in fixed sizes. And when designing a building, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of standard manufactured slabs. Depending on the requirements for future construction, the slabs are also classified by weight. Their average weight varies from 500 kg to 4 tons.

Use of concrete hollow core slabs during the construction of the foundation has been carried out for quite some time. But the installation of frost protection for floor slabs is not always thought through.

Damp and freezing walls are one of the most serious factors in the fragility of buildings.

The appearance of mold significantly affects the health of home occupants.

Wall freezing factors

Incorrect filling of joints between slabs. Poorly filled seams lead to a violation of the heat-insulating properties of the floors. Increases the chance of cracks forming. Through them the stove absorbs moisture.
Poor quality solution in the production of products. Choosing cheap or diluted solutions results in frequent moisture penetration. They usually have a very loose structure and cannot withstand pressure.
Errors in the design of the heating system. Poorly heated rooms are much more susceptible to frostbite on the walls. After moisture accumulates, they begin to freeze both externally and internally. inside.
Subcooling of metal reinforcement elements and anchors. When various cracks appear, moisture begins to enter the metal components of hollow core slabs. As a result, corrosion may occur. The structure of such slabs softens and is more susceptible to decay from low temperatures.
Exhaust pipes collect condensate. With weak draft, moisture accumulates inside the exhaust pipes, which leads to their freezing and reduced efficiency. At the same time, poor air circulation contributes to the accumulation of unnecessary moisture.
Small wall thickness. The thickness of the walls is not taken into account for their use in climatic conditions of this region.
Low thermal qualities of the materials used. When choosing materials, the scales generally tip towards strength, while often when installing insulation, the low level of thermal insulation is simply not taken into account.
Insufficient cross ventilation. In poorly ventilated rooms, the outer walls freeze much more strongly, losing their heat-shielding properties. Unsatisfactory internal waterproofing between the wall and the insulation leads to freezing of the outer surface, and then to the destruction of the masonry.
Foundations with poor waterproofing, especially in houses without basements.
Violation of the vapor barrier structure in attic floors. Poorly executed thermal insulation transfers its functions to the cement screed. The concrete surface collects moisture, accumulating condensation, and moisturizes the insulation. The heat-protective material begins to lose its original properties, which are significantly reduced, as a result of which the floor slabs begin to freeze. The insulation also increases its weight due to the accumulated liquid.
Often flooded basements.
The blind areas are made incorrectly or are missing.
Vertical waterproofing of basement walls was done incorrectly. Low air circulation leads to mold and condensation.
Bad in the production process. The frost resistance and water resistance of the structure of manufactured hollow core slabs depends on the quality of concrete compaction. A poorly compacted compound becomes too porous and the protection of the substrate is significantly reduced.
Installation of insufficient thickness of the finishing layer.

By saving on the finishing layer, you can end up with global destruction. When the air temperature fluctuates, the cladding gradually crumbles, reducing the wall's protection from getting wet and frost. And as a result, the strength of the entire structure is compromised, increasing the chances of emergency situations.

Prevention measures

To protect floor slabs from freezing, you need to take the following measures:

Carefully and airtightly fill the space between the plates.
High-quality installation of joint sealing must be waterproof (thanks to sealing mastics) and heat-protective (using insulating bags). With air protection, the distance between the plates is filled with sealing gaskets. The compression of the material of such gaskets should be at least 30-50%.
Monitor and check the operation of the building ventilation as often as possible.
Poor air circulation in rooms contributes to long-term drying of thermal insulation layers, accumulation of excess moisture and the appearance of mold. The heaving soil under the base of the foundation and the walls of the basement should not be allowed to freeze, and the air temperature should not be allowed to ground floor drop below zero.
If the building does not have a basement, then it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing between the ground and the surface of the basement.
Increase the layer of thermal insulation on the attic floors.
Maintain blind areas and drainage devices in good condition. Reducing the likelihood of freezing of hollow core slabs depends on the efficiency of their work.
During the first 3 years of operation of the building, it is necessary to clear the distance drainage systems at least twice a year, subsequently - once every three years.
Carry out drying on damp areas of the walls without worsening their condition.
Try to reduce humidity in rooms with poor ventilation. In any room, air humidity should not exceed 60%.

Fixes

Of course, it is always better to prevent a problem than to correct its consequences. But if measures were not applied on time and freezing nevertheless began, you need to start correcting the mistakes as quickly as possible. There are a number various methods fixing problems with freezing walls.

Depending on the reasons and locations

The appearance of dampness and black spots in the area of the top floors, as a rule, occurs if the installation of attic floor insulation is insufficient or poor quality. First of all, defects in the joints between the slabs are eliminated, which reduces the appearance of moisture on the internal walls. Typically, expanded clay is used as insulation in attic floors. According to the standards, for its productive action it must be at least 30 cm.

Be sure to check for ventilation problems attic space. The lack of high-quality air exchange leads to the appearance of condensation and overcooling of the floor slabs. Check the roof for leaks.
Problems can also arise due to poor-quality sealing of joints in the walls and balcony slabs. Moisture can get into the joints between the wall and the slabs, causing damp spots. You should dry the walls as soon as possible and seal any moisture ingress.

If the gap is no more than 8 cm, then you can use polyurethane foam. To use it, you must first clean the edges of the crack from concrete crumbs. Polyethylene and silicone surfaces require additional processing acetone. The foam hardens within 24 hours. Then the excess foam must be cut off, using a utility knife, and the surface should be plastered, thereby closing the bridge of cold. If the gap at the joint is more than 8 cm, then you will have to use thick cement mortar.

Check the effectiveness of balcony drains. If the sealing of seam joints is broken, it is best to re-seal it using newer and quality materials. The strength of the building structure largely depends on the quality of filling of the joints. Proper sealing should be carried out only after thorough surface preparation:

repair the external surfaces of wall panels;
dry all wet and damp areas;
Remove all damaged sealant before applying a new coat.

Under no circumstances should mastic be allowed to be applied to wet and untreated areas. It is best to carry out joint repairs in above-zero and dry weather.
If an imbalance in the thermal protection of walls is detected, insulation should be addressed by expanding them.

Wall insulation options

For example, using a layer brickwork can be veneered outside walls. This can be done without special skills. For this you will need:

bricks;
level, tape measure and order, if the wall needs to be built high;
sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 4:1 or glue solution for masonry;
drill with mixer;
trowel and solution container;
access to electricity.

You can also insulate the walls with plaster insulation on reinforcing mesh. To do this, use dowels to install the reinforcing mesh to the wall. The latter does not have to be metal. Plaster is applied between the wall and the mesh and on top. This can be a cement mortar or a ready-made dry mixture for wet rooms. They are more expensive, but last much longer than usual, since they have special additives in their composition.

Another of the highest quality methods is installation vapor barrier material and insulation on the inside concrete wall. Installation is carried out by installing a frame lined with tiled insulation. To make such a frame and fill the distance with insulation between the wall and finishing material, you can use various fasteners and hardware. These can be mounting brackets, plastic dowels, “fungi”, and glue, as in finished form, and in the form of a dry mixture that requires preparation. After that, be sure to finish it with plaster or any other finishing material.

Materials for frame and insulation:

metal profiles or wooden slats;
screws for metal or wood;
sealant and polyurethane foam;
vapor barrier membrane or aluminum foil on isofilm;
sheet insulation, mineral or fiberglass wool;
dry mixture for plaster.

Tools for installing the frame and insulation:

grinder with circles for cutting metal or special scissors;
drill with mixer attachment;
screwdrivers or screwdriver;
tape measure, level and pencil;
spatulas and graters for grinding;
solution container.

Between the frame and the wall you need to leave a space of about 50 mm and fill it with expanded clay. This material will perfectly absorb remaining moisture from the wall and stop the appearance of mold. Thus, the wall thickness increases by 150 mm. There are 80 mm foam blocks that successfully replace such frame structures. Installation is carried out on a regular cement-sand mortar (1:4).

On particularly cold and damp walls, you can install a system called “warm floor” or run it around the perimeter warm baseboard. This solution is best for corner rooms. When choosing a method for heating walls, the most suitable option is electric film or infrared flooring. You should not install it yourself. To heat the seam under the baseboard, you can use a heated floor, where heating element cable is used.

Installing a stationary wall-mounted electric heater will not completely solve the problem of poor-quality insulation between the slabs, but you can install it yourself.

For this you will need:

drill or hammer drill;
anchors or dowels;
hammer;
socket.

Whatever the reason for freezing of hollow core slabs, it is necessary to significantly reduce the humidity in the premises, be sure to check the efficiency of the ventilation and monitor the quality operation of the heating system. All work to repair the building and eliminate the causes of freezing should be carried out carefully and accurately. If you forget about some detail, you risk encountering this problem again, and very soon.

Overlap - horizontal load-bearing structure, which is created between two vertical rooms, dividing them by height. In this case, the upper part of the ceiling usually acts as the floor for the upper room, and the lower part of the ceiling acts as the ceiling for the lower room.

Conventionally, floors can be divided into:

Basement - a structure separating the ground and first floors.
Interfloor - a structure located between two floors.
Attic - separates the floor from the attic space.
Attics - separates the floor from the attic.

The ceiling can be a horizontally located structure made of such building materials, such as wood, metal, concrete, reinforced concrete, and meeting certain engineering and construction requirements. Such requirements usually include the ability of the floor to withstand permanent and temporary loads, i.e. have increased strength, and also have sound, heat and waterproofing functions.

Types of floors and their technological features

Depending on the material used, floors are divided into:

Wooden
Reinforced concrete

The above types of floors can be used depending on their purposes and design features of buildings.

Wooden floors

Installation of beams
Beam or timber floors are often used in the construction of timber or traditional single-family homes. In this case, the floor beams must be made of hardwood or coniferous species wood.

The essence of wooden floors is simple. Wooden beams or laminated wood with the following dimensions are taken:

height 150-300 mm;
width 100-250 mm,

cut the ends at an angle of 60-80°, treat them with an antiseptic and tar them. After this, the ends of the beams are wrapped in roofing felt and placed in niches with a depth of 150 mm, leaving a gap of 30-50 mm between the wall and the beam. The resulting gap is filled with mineral wool.

It should be remembered that the beams are installed on the load-bearing walls of the structure at a distance of 600 mm and up to 1.5 m from each other.

During installation, the beams are installed starting from the outer ones, having first retreated at least 50 mm from the walls of the structure. Then intermediate beams are evenly installed in the remaining space.

After distributing all the beams over the surface, it is necessary to check that they are horizontal. For leveling, tarred boards of the required thickness are usually used. It must be remembered when leveling that all beams in the horizontal plane must be at the same level.

To create additional rigidity for the future floor, beams can be strengthened using special steel anchors, nails and steel plates. This is done extremely rarely in brick houses, so we will not focus on this. But in wooden houses The beams are fastened using special connecting brackets.

After preparing the base of the floor, you can proceed to covering it.

Installation of wooden floors
Planed boards (25-45 mm thick), OSB panels or thick plywood are usually used as flooring for wooden floors.

Installation proceeds as follows. First, cranial bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm are attached to the beams, on which a subfloor is laid*. Layers of steam and thermal insulation are laid successively on top of the subfloor, and then the finished floor*. This method is used when installing a basement floor.

Installation of interfloor ceilings occurs somewhat differently. The skull blocks are attached, to which a layer of vapor barrier is attached below, and then the ceiling material for the lower floor. Next, on the inside of the cranial bars, between the beams, noise and thermal insulation material. Such a material can be mineral wool or expanded clay.

After this, another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the beams, and on top of it either planed boards, OSB boards or thick plywood.

In rare cases, when the distance between the beams is large, then before laying boards or slabs, logs are first laid perpendicular to the beams, placing them closer to each other than the beams.

The installation of attic and attic floors is approximately the same as the installation of interfloor floors. In all three cases, the thickness of the beam must be at least 1/24 of the length of the beam itself.

The floor surface resulting from the installation of a wooden floor, depending on the flooring material, is covered with a finishing coating*. If planed boards were used as the material, then the best option will cover them paint and varnish compositions, and not lay anything on top of them.

Advantages
The advantages of wooden flooring are:

The weight of a wooden floor is significantly lower than that of a reinforced concrete floor, which reduces the load on the walls and foundation of the building structure.
Comparative simplicity and speed of installation.
You can do the installation of a wooden floor yourself.
The low cost of such a floor compared to monolithic or reinforced concrete.

Flaws
There are disadvantages of wooden floors. These include:

Easy flammability of the material.
Regular treatment of wood floors with fire retardant impregnations and paints.
The instability of wooden floors.
Wood needs air circulation.
Fragility.

Make wooden floors where you need them, not where you want them.
All wooden elements ceilings should be located away from smoke ventilation ducts at a distance of at least 250 mm.
All wood flooring must be treated with fire and bioprotective agents.
Beams in places of contact with brick or concrete must be treated protective compounds and wrap it in roofing felt.
Do not make the distance between beams more than 1000 mm.
Do not exceed the width between beam supports by more than 6 m.

Reinforced concrete floors

Reinforced concrete floors - floors with reliability, durability, as well as good strength and fire resistance. Probably the most significant drawback This type of flooring is due to its high weight.

Reinforced concrete floors can be divided into monolithic reinforced concrete and prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs.

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors are floors in which a reinforced frame filled with concrete mixture is used as a base.

Floor reinforcement
Reinforcement of interfloor ceilings begins with the reinforcement being welded to the ends of reinforcement or rolled wire with a diameter of at least 10 mm released from the reinforcement belt. Of course, it is better to immediately calculate and release the ends of the reinforcement with a diameter of 14 mm. In this case, the ends of the reinforcement are released so that the subsequently welded reinforcement along the entire surface forms a mesh with cells of 200x200 mm.

The welded reinforcement is tied or welded together at the joints. The end result should be a mesh.

The diameter of the reinforcement used is calculated based on the design loads. For these purposes, there are special tables from which you can calculate what kind of reinforcement needs to be used for floors with certain parameters. However, from personal experience I’ll say, it’s better to play it safe and take reinforcement with a larger diameter than necessary. After all, all currently existing tables and building codes are interpreted based on the material, the quality of which is equal to the quality Soviet Union. But everyone should understand that the quality of current materials is far from ideal.

As my grandfather used to say: " It’s better to play it safe and sleep well than to save money and sleep poorly."

So, when pouring a floor with a slab thickness of up to 150 mm, it is recommended to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 14 mm, and with a mesh cell size of no more than 200x200 mm. If the span width is more than 4.5 m, then it is better to take reinforcement with a diameter of 20 mm or more, and leave the cells the same.

Another important point. For reinforcement of interfloor ceilings, it is advisable to use solid reinforcement bars. If the spans are large, then it is better to weld the reinforcement together.

After the reinforcement has been completed, you can begin installing the formwork.

Installation of formwork for slabs
Correct installation Formwork is the key to high-quality flooring.

For formwork work, you can use boards or boards, OSB boards or metal sheets. It is better to wrap boards, boards or OSB boards in polyethylene and attach it with a stapler, and metal sheets can be lubricated with oil or waste. This will further ensure easy separation of the formwork from the concrete, and will prevent the material from deteriorating from moisture.

We attach the prepared formwork or formwork material using wire to the reinforcing mesh. It is recommended to install formwork on the entire surface of the poured floor.

At this stage, it is worth remembering that the formwork to be attached must be suspended 30-50 mm below the reinforcement frame. For these purposes, special clamps or brick fragments of the same size are installed between the formwork and the reinforcement at a distance of 1-1.2 m. These clamps must be installed precisely at the intersections of the reinforcing bars.

Having attached the entire formwork and thus installed the clamps, we check that the wire is tightened well, without allowing the formwork to sag. To be on the safe side, the installed formwork can be additionally supported from below with spacers. After these steps, you can proceed directly to concreting the floor.

Concreting the floor
To fill the floor with concrete mixture, you must first calculate the thickness of the future floor. According to the documentation, the thickness of the slab is calculated based on the span, and is taken in a ratio of 1:30. For example, for a span width of 6 m, the thickness of the floor will be 200 mm.

The thickness of the ceiling can be determined by measuring the required 200 mm from the formwork upwards, then using a water level to make markings along the perimeter of the walls, and then highlighting it using beating and blueing.

Having decided on the thickness and made the necessary markings, you can begin concreting. In this case, the entire process must be completed in one go. If it is not possible to concrete in one go, then a metal mesh made of wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm with a cell of 10x20 or 20x20 mm is laid in the place of the break. However, this is an extreme case.

When laying concrete, it needs to be vibrated very well so that the concrete fills all the voids and lays down as tightly as possible. The quality of the concrete floor will depend on this.

For vibration, you can use a stick in the form of a shovel handle, or, if possible, special vibrators. To level concrete, it is better to use a long rule or a smooth, polished beam.

Having poured the entire surface of the floor in this way, we leave it for 28 days until it completely hardens and acquires the necessary concrete strength. You can, of course, remove the formwork earlier, it depends on the ambient temperature.

After this time, we remove the formwork by first removing the supports, and then, cutting the wire, remove the formwork panels. The resulting irregularities on the lower part of the ceiling are eliminated using a pick.

Advantages
The advantages of a monolithic reinforced concrete floor are:

Possibility to produce ceilings of various shapes and sizes.
These ceilings have no deflections, or in rare cases they are minimal and invisible to the eye.

Flaws
There are disadvantages of monolithic reinforced concrete floors. These include:

The complexity of the process.
Necessary care of the floor while the concrete acquires the required design strength.
A minimum of three people are required for pouring.
Special equipment is required, and possibly mechanisms.
High cost of work relative to wooden floors.
The need to buy ready-made concrete mix, or prepare it yourself.

For reinforcement, use reinforcement that is not of the diameter that is recommended to you, but one or two sizes thicker.
To tie the reinforcement, it is better to use a special binding wire.
It is better to use knocked down forms as formwork. wooden boards from 25 mm thick, or metal sheets, which are supported from below by boards for more reliable fastening.
Wooden formwork parts can be packed in plastic film, and metal ones - lubricate them with oil or polish. This will prevent damage to the building material, and it will be easier to separate the formwork from the floor mortar.
It is better to install the formwork on the entire surface to be poured at once.
It is recommended to fill the ceiling in one go.
In hot weather, the ceiling must be watered (not flooded) to avoid cracking, and in winter time- such a ceiling requires heating, and in concrete mortar It is better to add special antifreeze additives.

Precast concrete slabs

Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs are perhaps the most common building material used for flooring. These plates have different sizes and consist of a reinforcement frame filled with concrete on top. In most cases, these slabs are hollow.

The essence of installing floors made of reinforced concrete slabs comes down to several points:

Take measurements of the surface of the future floor (length and width).
Find optimal solution according to the size of the slabs, their location and quantity.
Find a company for the production, delivery and installation of slabs.
Pay for the delivered material and installation of the product.

That's all that is needed to install a floor made of factory reinforced concrete slabs.

Advantages
Advantages of precast concrete slabs:

High load-bearing capacity of the slabs, which can be subjected to design loads immediately after installation.
These floors have high load-bearing capacity.
No deflections.
High speed of installation work.

Flaws
Disadvantages of precast concrete floors:

The need for a monolithic belt in places where the slabs rest on the walls.
Impossibility of installation on your own.
Availability of qualified installers.
Availability of special equipment for delivery and installation of slabs.
High cost of slabs.
Cash costs for the slabs themselves, their delivery and installation.

When making floors from factory reinforced concrete slabs, consult with specialists.
Lay floor slabs only on a pre-created reinforced belt.
Do not lay reinforced concrete floor slabs on walls less than 200 mm thick.
If you decide to use precast concrete slabs for flooring, find and contact a company with knowledgeable specialists.

Summing up

Each type of flooring is good for certain structures. During the review, it turned out that wooden floors are the cheapest and least labor-intensive to install. However, this type of flooring can not be used in all types of structures, but only in wooden buildings and traditional private houses. Wooden floors can be used for any of four types of floors - basement, interfloor, attic and attic.

Monolithic reinforced concrete floor can be used in the construction of buildings of almost any design, except wooden structures. Such floors are more expensive than wooden floors and require certain material and physical costs. However, they are more resilient and have more benefits, compared to wooden floors. Depending on the type of bulk fillers in concrete mixture, this floor can be used for all types of floors.

Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs are the simplest, but most expensive type of flooring, which also has restrictions on installation on certain types of structures (wooden, with a wall thickness of less than 200 mm). They are installed mainly as a floor between the 0th and 1st floors, as well as between the 1st and 2nd floors.

* Subfloor - a horizontally flat plane that serves as the basis for the finishing coating, and made of boards, chipboard, OSB or thick plywood.
* Finish floor - finishing floor covering, such as tiles, parquet, laminate, linoleum, etc.

When constructing residential buildings, concrete floor slabs are often used. These reinforced concrete products are used both for floor coverings and for the construction of walls. They are made from high-quality concrete using a reinforced frame. The reliability and durability of buildings mainly depends on the quality of the materials used.

Floor slab insulation scheme.

Overlapping with a monolithic slab

Hollow-core structures

Drawing of a hollow core slab.

The most popular, due to the lighter weight of the product. Thanks to the voids, these slabs have low thermal conductivity and good sound insulation. Manufacturing costs are significantly lower than in the production of monolithic slabs. They are often made of ribbed or cellular concrete.

Floor slabs are mainly manufactured in fixed sizes. And when designing a building, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of standard manufactured slabs. Depending on the requirements for future construction, the slabs are also classified by weight. Their average weight varies from 500 kg to 4 tons.

The use of concrete hollow-core slabs in foundation construction has been around for quite some time. But the installation of frost protection for floor slabs is not always thought through.

Damp and freezing walls are one of the most serious factors in the fragility of buildings.

The appearance of mold significantly affects the health of home occupants.

Wall freezing factors

Installation diagram of a reinforced concrete floor slab.

Incorrect filling of joints between slabs. Poorly filled seams lead to a violation of the heat-insulating properties of the floors. Increases the chance of cracks forming. Through them the stove absorbs moisture.
Poor quality solution in the production of products. Choosing cheap or diluted solutions results in frequent moisture penetration. They usually have a very loose structure and cannot withstand pressure.
Errors in the design of the heating system. Poorly heated rooms are much more susceptible to frostbite on the walls. After moisture accumulates, they begin to freeze both on the outside and on the inside.
Subcooling of metal reinforcement elements and anchors. When various cracks appear, moisture begins to enter the metal components of hollow core slabs. As a result, corrosion may occur. The structure of such slabs softens and is more susceptible to decay from low temperatures.
Exhaust pipes collect condensate. With weak draft, moisture accumulates inside the exhaust pipes, which leads to their freezing and reduced efficiency. At the same time, poor air circulation contributes to the accumulation of unnecessary moisture.
Small wall thickness. The thickness of the walls is not taken into account for their use in the climatic conditions of this region.
Low thermal qualities of the materials used. When choosing materials, the scales generally tip towards strength, while often when installing insulation, the low level of thermal insulation is simply not taken into account.
Insufficient cross ventilation. In poorly ventilated rooms, the outer walls freeze much more strongly, losing their heat-shielding properties. Unsatisfactory internal waterproofing between the wall and the insulation leads to freezing of the outer surface, and then to the destruction of the masonry.
Foundations with poor waterproofing, especially in houses without basements.
Violation of the vapor barrier structure in attic floors. Poorly performed thermal insulation ceiling transfers its functions to the cement screed. The concrete surface collects moisture, accumulating condensation, and moisturizes the insulation. The heat-protective material begins to lose its original properties, which are significantly reduced, as a result of which the floor slabs begin to freeze. The insulation also increases its weight due to the accumulated liquid.
Often flooded basements.
The blind areas are made incorrectly or are missing.
Vertical waterproofing of basement walls was done incorrectly. Low air circulation leads to mold and condensation.
Poor compaction of concrete during production. The frost resistance and water resistance of the structure of manufactured hollow core slabs depends on the quality of concrete compaction. A poorly compacted compound becomes too porous and the protection of the substrate is significantly reduced.
Installation of insufficient thickness of the finishing layer.

Prevention measures

To protect floor slabs from freezing, you need to take the following measures:

Diagram of a floor slab with waterproofing.

Carefully and airtightly fill the space between the plates.
High-quality installation of joint sealing must be waterproof (thanks to sealing mastics) and heat-protective (using insulating bags). With air protection, the distance between the plates is filled with sealing gaskets. The compression of the material of such gaskets should be at least 30-50%.
Monitor and check the operation of the building ventilation as often as possible.
Poor indoor air circulation contributes to long-term drying of thermal insulation layers, accumulation of excess moisture and the appearance of mold. The heaving soil under the foundation and the walls of the basement should not be allowed to freeze, and the air temperature on the basement should not be allowed to drop below zero.
If the building does not have a basement, then it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing between the ground and the surface of the basement.
Increase the layer of thermal insulation on the attic floors.
Maintain blind areas and drainage devices in good condition. Reducing the likelihood of freezing of hollow core slabs depends on the efficiency of their work.
During the first 3 years of operation of the building, it is necessary to clean the drainage systems at least twice a year, and subsequently - once every three years.
Carry out drying on damp areas of the walls without worsening their condition.
Try to reduce humidity in rooms with poor ventilation. In any room, air humidity should not exceed 60%.

Fixes

Of course, it is always better to prevent a problem than to correct its consequences. But if measures were not applied on time and freezing nevertheless began, you need to start correcting the mistakes as quickly as possible. There are a number of different methods for correcting wall freezing problems.

Depending on the reasons and locations

Floor slab laying diagram.

Be sure to check if there are any problems with the ventilation of the attic space. The lack of high-quality air exchange leads to the appearance of condensation and overcooling of the floor slabs. Check the roof for leaks.
Problems can also arise due to poor-quality sealing of joints in walls and balcony slabs. Moisture can get into the joints between the wall and the slabs, causing damp spots. You should dry the walls as soon as possible and seal any moisture ingress.

If the gap is no more than 8 cm, then polyurethane foam can be used. To use it, you must first clean the edges of the crack from concrete crumbs. Polyethylene and silicone surfaces require additional treatment with acetone. The foam hardens within 24 hours. Then the excess foam must be cut off, using a utility knife, and the surface should be plastered, thereby closing the bridge of cold. If the gap at the joint is more than 8 cm, then you will have to use thick cement mortar.

Check the effectiveness of balcony drains. If the sealing of seam joints is broken, it is best to re-seal it using newer and higher quality materials. The strength of the building structure largely depends on the quality of filling of the joints. Proper sealing should be carried out only after thorough surface preparation:

repair the external surfaces of wall panels;
dry all wet and damp areas;
Remove all damaged sealant before applying a new coat.

Wall insulation options

For example, using a layer of brickwork you can clad the outside of a wall. This can be done without special skills. For this you will need:

Wall insulation scheme.

bricks;
level, tape measure and order, if the wall needs to be built high;
sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 4:1 or adhesive mortar for masonry;
drill with mixer;
trowel and solution container;
access to electricity.

You can also insulate the walls with plaster insulation on reinforcing mesh. To do this, use dowels to install the reinforcing mesh to the wall. The latter does not have to be metal. Plaster is applied between the wall and the mesh and on top. This can be a cement mortar or a ready-made dry mixture for wet rooms. Moisture-resistant solutions are more expensive, but last much longer than usual, since they have special additives in their composition.

Another of the highest quality methods is the installation of vapor barrier material and insulation on the inside of the concrete wall. Installation is carried out by installing a frame lined with tiled insulation. To make such a frame and fill the distance with insulation between the wall and the finishing material, you can use various fasteners and hardware. These can be mounting brackets, plastic “fungi” dowels, and glue, both in finished form and in the form of a dry mixture that requires preparation. After that, be sure to finish it with plaster or any other finishing material.

Materials for frame and insulation:

metal profiles or wooden slats;
screws for metal or wood;
sealant and polyurethane foam;
vapor barrier membrane or aluminum foil on isofilm;
sheet insulation, mineral or fiberglass wool;
dry mixture for plaster.

Tools for installing the frame and insulation:

grinder with circles for cutting metal or special scissors;
drill with mixer attachment;
screwdrivers or screwdriver;
tape measure, level and pencil;
spatulas and graters for grinding;
solution container.

Scheme for insulating the wall of a frame house.

On particularly cold and damp walls, you can install a system called “warm floor”, or install a warm baseboard around the perimeter. This solution is best suited for corner rooms. When choosing a method for heating walls, the most suitable option is electric film or infrared flooring. You should not install it yourself. To heat the seam under the baseboard, you can use a heated floor, where a cable is used as a heating element.

Installing a stationary wall-mounted electric heater will not completely solve the problem of poor-quality insulation between the slabs, but you can install it yourself.

For this you will need:

drill or hammer drill;
anchors or dowels;
hammer;
socket.

Foam concrete has recently been in high demand among developers. Residential buildings of various heights, outbuildings, and garages are erected from it. The material is durable, environmentally friendly, light weight, warm and easy to process. However, during the operation of a foam block house, one unpleasant defect may appear - cracks in the walls. The purpose of this article is to familiarize readers with the causes of cracks in foam concrete walls and ways to resolve the problem.

Causes of cracks

If a crack appears in a wall made of foam blocks, it is necessary to find out the cause of its occurrence. Thus, in most cases, it is possible to prevent its further spread. The wall cracks for the following reasons:

Mistakes during foundation construction. Many inexperienced builders naively believe that lightweight foam concrete does not require the construction of a powerful foundation. In fact, the service life of the entire structure depends on the quality of the foundation. It is necessary to ensure that the foundation is laid to the depth of soil freezing, and its width is slightly greater than the width of the foam blocks. In addition, under the foundation should be laid sand cushion layer 8–10 cm.
The block laying technology has been violated. For this, cement mortar was used instead of glue. The emerging cold bridges could well provoke the appearance of cracks due to temperature differences.
Foam concrete blocks were used wet. As they dry, the material shrinks, which contributes to the appearance of cracks. And if wet blocks were laid on the eve of frost, then the wet material will literally be torn when freezing.
Cracked material may indicate that reinforcement for every 4th row of blocks was not used during the laying process.
If the height of the house exceeds 1 floor, it is necessary before installation interfloor covering install reinforced concrete belts on the walls. If such a belt was not erected, then the walls crack, possibly due to uneven stress on their various parts.
The foundation is erected under external and internal walls Houses. If the depth of its occurrence under the internal walls is less than under the external ones, then a gap can easily appear.
It is necessary to use material with the same density for laying walls. That is, you need to purchase it in one place and one brand. It is undesirable to use foam blocks from different manufacturers or use composite materials for one masonry.

Attention! If vertical cracks appear predominantly in the middle of the wall, then a weak foundation is most likely to blame. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen it, and only then begin to eliminate the cracks.

In any case, if a foam concrete wall is cracked, you can restore the integrity of the structure even on your own. Below we will outline how to repair cracks in a foam block house.

Classification of cracks in foam concrete walls

Mechanical cracks. They differ from shrinkage cracks in their greater width and length. In the vast majority of cases, they arise as a result of movement or destruction of the foundation. Less commonly, they can occur due to subsidence of the entire structure on shifting soils. To eliminate the cause of the crack, it is necessary to examine the foundation under the crack. To do this, it is advisable to expose it. If there are problems, the foundation is strengthened with a concrete pad.
Shrinkage cracks. They are less dangerous. They are small in width. They are often horizontal. Sealing such cracks is not difficult.

Depending on the type of crack, they are sealed in different ways.

Methods for sealing cracks on foam concrete walls

First of all, you need to determine the reason why the wall is bursting. Then try to eliminate this reason. After this, you can begin to seal the cracks. Several methods are proposed for this.

Small cracks (shrinkage)

The place where the crack appears is cleaned of plaster, removed dust with water and primed.
The seams are being unstitched. They are expanded with a metal spatula to the required width. The length of the seam is also forced to increase.
We seal the seam with adhesive for foam concrete or a mixture consisting of foam concrete chips, water and cement.
Aged certain time required for the sealing mortar to harden.

Large mechanical cracks

To eliminate wide cracks, it is necessary to reinforce them, and seal the seams themselves with one of the following materials:

Adhesive composition for foam concrete masonry.
Cement mortar with silicate crumbs.
Polyurethane foam.
Epoxy glue.

Reinforcement is carried out over the entire area where the crack occurs with a distance of at least 40 cm from it on the sides. This can be done in several ways:

The reinforcement area is cleared of plaster. At equal distances on the sides of the seam, anchors are driven in, between which wire or mesh is stretched. You can use chain-link mesh or metal construction mesh. The mesh or wire is plastered on top. The thickness of the plaster layer is about 2–3 cm.
All plaster is removed from the crack area. A reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass is glued onto the crack. For this purpose it is used adhesive composition, used for laying foam concrete. The reinforcing mesh is sealed on top with the same solution. After it dries, the wall is puttied and plastered.

The appearance of cracks on the walls in a house built from foam blocks is a common occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, this phenomenon does not pose a danger, since it is a natural process of shrinkage and drying of building materials. It is recommended to adhere to certain building codes during the construction of houses to prevent the appearance of cracks. Well, if they occur, take measures to eliminate this unpleasant phenomenon using one of the methods described above.

When designing, and especially implementing a house, that is, construction, there are many nuances that generally affect the strength of the entire structure. Floor assemblies were no exception, because they are entirely responsible for exactly what load the laid structures will withstand.

Between the end of the wooden floor beam and brick wall you need to make a ventilated air gap.

So, let's look at what the nodes of these systems are and how they are mounted.

Some characteristics

The floors themselves are usually made of reinforced concrete slabs, which are produced in a special way in factory conditions.

According to the type of material from which they are made, they can be divided into:

cellular concrete;
multi-hollow;
made of heavy concrete;
as well as prefabricated monolithic structures.

In each case of construction, the floor material is selected individually, in connection with the tasks assigned to the planned device, as well as the span width, etc.

Based on their design, similar products can be divided into:

interfloor;
attics.

Scheme for sealing the ceiling in outer wall: 1 - wall; 2 - lining; 3 - end of the beam to be sealed; 4 - floor slab.

In brick houses with more than two floors, it is planned to use precast reinforced concrete floors. The indisputable advantage of such reinforced concrete structures is their enormous strength and bearing capacity. When using reinforced concrete elements, you can safely create a basement.

Interfloor systems located at different heights may have small design features related to the need for heat or sound insulation. For example, if the element is located between an unheated attic and a living space or between a basement and the first floor of a residential building.

The ceilings separating the attic from the living quarters do not bear heavy loads during operation, which means their design is lightweight.

During installation, reinforced concrete slabs must be laid close to each other, and the seams must be filled with cement mortar.

Return to contents

Features of these systems

In order for the floor to hold tightly and be able to withstand large and even excessive loads, it is necessary to correctly calculate the support unit for the floor slab on brick wall. Depending on how it is implemented, it will be possible to place a certain load on a given floor of the building. By the way, please note: a slab support unit cannot be constructed based on lintels rather than load-bearing walls.

Scheme for embedding a wooden floor beam into a brick wall: 1 - wooden beam; 2 - the end of the beam, coated with resin and wrapped in roofing felt;
3 - waterproofing; 4 - brick wall; 5 - air gap between the wall and the beveled end of the beam.

In construction, just like in any industry, there are special regulatory documents regulating the standards for installing support units on various walls, including brick ones.

In order to accurately determine the “depth of support”, it is necessary not only to take into account the immediate length of the selected slab, but also the material itself on which this slab will rest. Therefore, all products, as a rule, are marked, that is, they indicate the maximum load-bearing capacity, as well as the level of minimum seismic resistance.

Construction control authorities carefully monitor exactly how these structures are laid and what the supporting area is. load-bearing wall buildings.

This is of great importance, since an incorrectly installed unit on a brick wall will be a violation that will lead to a ban on construction or reworking a completely already constructed part of the building.

At the same time, regulatory authorities are guided by modern, currently existing GOSTs, as well as a series project documentation, where the amount of support is precisely indicated. In accordance with the existing GOST 956-91, which regulates the depth of support of a ceiling of any length on a load-bearing brick wall, this value is 10 mm, excluding the length of the device itself. Therefore, when choosing a reinforced concrete slab for an organization, you need to carefully study the markings applied to it, as it will give all the necessary information about this reinforced concrete product.

As a rule, the marking of slabs consists of a group of letters and numbers. For example, PC slab 42.15-8T. The letters PC are the name of the product itself, in in this case this is a floor slab with round voids; numbers 42.15 indicate the dimensions of reinforced concrete products in decimeters (structural length is 4180, and width is 1490); the number 8 indicates the maximum load on this slab - 800 kgf/sq.m; the letter T is an index for the heavy concrete used in the manufacture of the slab.