Greetings, brain engineers! PVC pipes are the equivalent of Lego for adults, so having a small supply of such pipes at home is not bad at all brainidea!
In this brain leadership We with your own hands Let's create three things from plastic pipes - a foam cutter, a hacksaw and a selfie stick. For this we need an industrial hair dryer and a pipe bending spring.
And also to create a cutter:
- PVC pipe and two plugs for it
- nichrome wire (I took 26 gauge)
- universal power supply (similar to the one I used)
- heat shrink tubing, wires and terminal washers.
For a hacksaw:
- PVC pipe
- hacksaw blade
- steel wire
- Grover washers.
And for the selfie stick:
- PVC pipes of two diameters (one pipe should fit fairly tightly into the other)
- steel wire
- PVC plug
- the correct size bolt for your camera.
If the presented video with the process of this brain guides does not play on your smartphone, then go via alternative link.
Step 1: Foam Cutter - Pipe Bending
Always wear a RESPIRATOR before heating plastic tubing!
We take a bending spring and place it in a PVC pipe. We heat the place of the future bend and carefully bend it. We repeat brain procedure until the pipe takes the desired shape.
Step 2: Foam Cutter - Holes for Wires
We cut off the excess and drill holes for the power wires.
Step 3: Foam Cutter - Plug Holes
We drill holes in the PVC plugs for the eye bolts and insert them ourselves brain chatter, We attach terminals to the wires and secure them with eye bolts. And then we put plugs on the ends of the prepared pipe.
Step 4: Foam Cutter - Power Supply
We take a power source (I used a universal power supply) and solder wires to its output homemade products, the polarity does not matter, and to insulate the connection, and for a neat appearance, we use heat-shrinkable tubes. We glue the prepared power wires at the input to the tube with black hot glue.
Step 5: Foam Cutter - Finishing the Handle
For greater tube reliability brain pens glue them together.
Step 6: Foam Cutter - Nichrome String
We tighten between the eye bolts nichrome wire. Due to the fact that the tube brain games an elastic, taut wire will always be in a tense position - both in a heated and cold state.
Step 7: Foam Cutter - Setup
By adjusting the power supply, we adjust the desired level of filament of the string. And now this homemade You can cut through foam like butter.
Step 8: PVC Hacksaw - Shaping
We insert a spring into the tube and heat the bend. Next, bend the PVC pipe until you get the desired shape in the shape of the letter "C".
Step 9: PVC Hacksaw - String for Coils
Down the pipe of the future brain hacksaws We insert a spring of smaller diameter, wrap the bending area with steel wire, the ends of which are fixed, this is how I attached them to the table.
Step 10: PVC Hacksaw - Coils
To prevent the ends of the hacksaw workpiece from diverging when the pipe is heated, we fasten them with electrical tape. Next, we heat the area wrapped with wire and create tension in the wire so that turns are formed. After the pipe cooled, I moved the wound wire and repeated the procedure.
We repeat the same steps from the other end brain dumps.
Step 11: PVC Hacksaw - Blade Cutouts
We trim the ends to the required length, and then make cutouts in them for subsequent installation of the hacksaw blade.
Step 12: PVC Hacksaw - Blade
We insert the hacksaw blade, and that’s it, the hacksaw is homemade ready.
Just like with a cutter, the blade will be taut.
Step 13: Selfie Stick - Coils
At one end of the blank tube for a selfie stick we form curls.
Step 14: Selfie Stick - Slots
At the other end of the workpiece we make 4 slits.
Step 15: Selfie Stick - Small Tube
In a tube of smaller diameter we drill a through hole brain foramen. Then we heat this end and “flatten” it.
Step 16: Selfie Stick - Fixing Screw
In a vice, we clamp the selected bolt and put a PVC ring on it, which we then heat with a hairdryer and squeeze from two opposite sides with two pliers, thereby creating a “T”-shaped screw fixing the camera.
Step 17: Selfie Stick - Screw Installation
Insert a screw into the hole in the “flattened” end; it will fix the camera to brain work. I also decided to bend this end so that the camera would be at a right angle.
Step 18: Selfie Stick - Tube Connection
We paint the “lamb” clamp in the color of the tubes and put it on the end of the large tube, then insert a smaller diameter tube into this end with the slots. This design allows you to adjust the length of the selfie crafts.
Step 19: Selfie Stick - Dummy
AND finishing touch- glue a white plug to the free end of the large tube of the selfie stick.
That's all, good luck in creating yours brain craft!
Assemble a greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands (photo different models presented on the Internet) you can have any size.
Taking into account the higher elasticity, different lengths and diameters of pipes, various ways fastenings, it is also possible to give the greenhouse any desired shape. The following constructions are more pressing:
Greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes
Reviews:
DOKTOR LEKTOR writes: so bring the AFTOR FIVE record book to you, we sell these in the store, only more expensive...., minus the truth.... could have been soldered, but maybe there was no iron.... then I saved on bolts
Andrey Babichev writes: he correctly named the video - PP pipe, but you keep saying PVC), and it’s expensive, professional pipe 20x20 is cheaper, and then it turns out that you’re ready to buy almost the same price.. This is the situation
TAISIA POVALII writes: UNTIL THE FIRST SNOW
DOKTOR LEKTOR writes: yes polypropylene is destroyed under the influence sun rays, but the process is long and it will last for a lifetime, while you are being clever here the man is harvesting the harvest and NAGGING ON YOUR STUPID COMMENTS, nothing lasts forever, your brain and liver are also destroyed under the influence of moonshine, but how soon the paragraph will come is something only one knows...
Motorized towing vehicle Hurricane writes: Interesting, I should try making one for myself. What region was it filmed in?
Plastic pipes used to make greenhouses can be purchased in sizes from 2 to 7 meters. By choosing a long pipe, you can actually avoid additional connections.
The diameter and wall thickness of the pipe are selected taking into account the size of the structure. For medium-sized personal plots, it would be appropriate small greenhouses made of PVC pipes, which are quickly and easily assembled and disassembled. Do-it-yourself photos of greenhouses made from PVC pipes clearly demonstrate the variety of structural shapes.
Greenhouse made of PVC pipes with your own hands for little money
Another undeniable advantage of polycarbonate for covering do-it-yourself greenhouses is its durability and strength. Having installed the structure well, you can forget about the hassle of setting up a greenhouse on your site for many years to come. When choosing polycarbonate, pay special attention to its density - less dense sheets sag more under the weight of snow, so they will require more care. Greenhouses made of PVC profiles are the best option for placement on small summer cottages and local areas.
Their construction takes little time and requires minor physical and financial costs. This type of greenhouse is characterized by low weight, high reliability and durability.
How to Build a Greenhouse
Reviews:
Lenya Ku writes: There is enough film for the season, but the pipes are eternal
Sasha Kampo writes: Good idea
Jansch Pro writes: By the way, it holds the wind. Additionally, I placed a fishing net with a large mesh over the film. The film was not damaged in any place by any wind. As I already said, the pipes were bent due to the heat.
denis fedorov writes: what diameter is the pipe? PVC or polypropylene
Jansch Pro writes: I did as you did. It was summer and the pipes bent from the heat. Although the idea is worthy. Maybe you just need to put fittings in the pipes. And it worked out so well for me. The harvest is normal. After 2 months of operation it justified itself. He sold what he grew at a wholesale price. If you traded it yourself, you would have paid it off in a month. Good luck.
Today, any hardware store is replete with a huge assortment of building materials that can be used in the construction of water supply and heating systems, as well as their periodic replacement. However, products made from polyvinyl chloride are the most common raw materials, due to their resistance to aggressive substances. In order to correctly install PVC pipes with your own hands, you will need to take into account the properties of the material and a number of important features when connecting elements.
Main advantages of PVC are:
- resistance to chemicals and environmental factors;
- perfectly smooth surfaces of products eliminate the formation of growths, blockages and other deposits;
- a wide selection of components allows you to build any pipeline structure;
- resistance to corrosion and premature destruction;
- huge period of operation;
- ease of installation;
- low heat conductivity;
- small specific gravity and flammability coefficient;
- hermetic pipe connection allows for use on floating soils.
Flaws:
- temperature restrictions;
- availability of special fittings.
In general terms, the installation of plastic pipes is the connection of individual PVC elements, fittings and components into a single sealed network. It is carried out through three technologies:
- bell method;
- “cold welding” method;
- by using special couplings.
Installation using the first method in most cases is used in the construction of sewer systems, since it is the simplest and involves the usual fixation of the end of the connecting pipe in rubber gasket another.
The second method is to use a special chemical composition that ensures reliable contact of all elements. The third method is used when connecting pipes of different nature, for example, made of metal and polymers.
Preparation
Carrying out preparatory work is an extremely important procedure, which provides for a clear organization of actions and the availability of all necessary tools. The first step is to draw up an approximate diagram that will fully reflect the number of fittings, pipe sizes and their number. Before cutting PVC pipes for adhesive joints, preliminary measurements should be taken on a dry surface. The ends of the connecting elements must be cleaned and degreased. Cutting should be done using a regular hacksaw or a special cutter. Do not forget that the pipes are secured using special brackets attached to the wall.
In order for the cut to be smooth and airtight, it is necessary to first outline the pipe at the site of the future cut. Cutting is carried out strictly at an angle of 90°. The remaining irregularities are smoothed out using a knife and sanding paper.
The connecting pipe must fit at least 2/3 into the fitting device. Then the cut areas should be treated with a cleaner, which will not only remove all dirt from the edges, but also somewhat soften the future attachment point. The inner space of the fitting and the end part of the pipe are covered with a small layer of glue, and then clamped tightly for 1 minute. A uniform adhesive ring should form at the junction of the elements, which should be cleaned with a dry cloth.
Having finished with everyone preparatory activities, it is worth installing future design. When constructing a sewer system, all work leads from the risers to the plumbing fixtures. The connection of sewer pipes with a fitting is carried out by simply securing a piece of product in the rubber gasket of the fastening device. The main thing is to insert the pipe without bevels until it stops. Loose contact can subsequently lead to the appearance of an unpleasant odor.
Before performing this procedure, it would be useful to check the place of the future connection and the rubber layer for the presence of dirt and dust. To ensure a more reliable connection, it is necessary to lubricate the end of the attached segment and the rubber of the fitting with a soap solution or glycerin lubricant.
After the main communication is ready, it is worth starting to connect all the plumbing fixtures, not forgetting to equip sinks and bathtubs with siphons. The next main step is to test the system for leaks. In this situation, it is necessary to turn on all the plumbing in the house and check all connections for leaks. In addition, you should see how the design will behave in critical situations - fill a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the sink or washbasin. If there is no moisture on the floor, it means that the work was done efficiently and effectively, but if there are leaks, then the “problem” areas should be dismantled and re-fixed using various adhesives. Then repeat testing.
Any water supply system is subject to high pressure, so installing water supply pipes will require the use of a special welding machine(ironing). Having completed all the preparatory activities, we proceed to assembling the entire structure, which, as when installing a sewer system, should begin from the riser. Before use welding equipment Be sure to read the attached technical documentation. Depending on the power of the heating element, the heating time of the connecting elements may vary.
After heating device ready to use must be inserted connecting pipe and fitting from different sides into the heated nozzle and wait about 15–20 seconds. Next, carefully remove them from the device and immediately insert them into each other, while maintaining the required connecting angles. Then you should fix it in this position for 10–15 seconds so that the plastic elements have time to set. The resulting connection will function effectively for a long time due to the fact that the structure of the two component parts will become unified.
Never neglect safety precautions: safety glasses and gloves are included with the welding machine. The slightest contact with heating element can cause severe burns.
The financial benefits of using PVC pipes can be tracked at almost every stage self-construction– from planning to launch. The use of this material will allow you to avoid calculating transition coefficients at the stage of arranging a metal pipeline. During operation, such communications are unpretentious, since they do not require preventive maintenance or additional painting. At the same time, the material is environmentally friendly, which allows it to be laid in the ground, thereby speeding up the launch of the water supply system.
Video
This video shows the adhesive method of connecting PVC pipes:
There are a lot of ways to create such a thing as a bow from PVC pipes; you can find the most sophisticated methods on the Internet, but first of all, you want the manufacturing process to be simple, convenient and not troublesome, including not taking a lot of time and effort. These are the methods that are worth getting acquainted with. Let's look at the three simplest and most understandable ways to make onions yourself.
Method number 1.
Using the first method, it is quite possible to make an interesting bow, the design of which cannot be disassembled. Compared to multiple tips and concepts for the manufacturing process, this option is perhaps the easiest. The main nuance in creating a bow is the presence of construction equipment, such as a technical hair dryer.
For the manufacturing process you need to arm yourself with:
1. A polyvinyl chloride pipe with a length of about one and a half meters and a diameter of about 2.5 cm.
2. Technical device hair dryer.
3. Narrow hand saw, felt-tip pen and measuring tape.
4. One long piece of wood and two pieces about 80 cm long.
5. A device for the drilling process with a metal rod and aluminum paper (see).
6. Dyeing agent to impart decorative properties.
7. Adhesive tape and gloves of any kind.
So, at the initial stage of making the bow, it is necessary to mark the polyvinyl chloride pipe. Using a measuring tape, you need to measure a section of 30 cm and 60 cm in length from the two ends of the pipe, followed by marking. For these purposes, for the convenience of the process, you need to use a bright-colored felt-tip pen. Next, it is necessary to determine the central point of the pipe with maximum accuracy; for this you need to measure 75 cm from either end of the pipe. Fix the mark with a felt-tip pen. Then, to determine the area that will be allocated under the handle, you need to measure 8 cm in both opposite directions from the central point. Naturally, fix the marks with a felt-tip pen.
The next stage of making a bow involves creating a deformation of a polyvinyl chloride pipe. To do this, for convenience, it is necessary to create an auxiliary element that will help heat the pipe. A piece of aluminum paper needs to be bent so that two perpendicular planes. Simply put, create a 90 degree angle.
Next, the process of deformation and bending occurs. To achieve what you need, you need to take a PVC pipe and cover one end with a foil corner piece. Showing care and accuracy, focusing on the pipe markings, you need to heat a section of the pipe, which is located at a fixed point of 30 cm. Using a technical hair dryer in this case, the heating process will be quick and trouble-free. It is necessary to take into account in order to obtain good result, you must try to heat the entire intended section of the pipe with uniform movements. When heating, you need to rotate the pipe.
Permanent bow made from PVC pipe - Step 4 After it is visually visible that the pipe section has become soft, to ensure that it does not lose the desired temperature and simply does not cool down, you need to wrap it in aluminum paper. Without wasting time, in order to prevent cooling, you need to do all the same actions with the other end of the pipe. If it becomes visually noticeable and sensitive to the touch that the first heated section of the pipe has begun to cool, you must definitely heat it additionally, using the same technical hair dryer.
It is very important to understand that during the heating process of a polyvinyl chloride pipe, you must try to prevent the surface of the pipe from starting to become covered with bubbles, black deposits or lose its color. Otherwise, this will indicate that the heating process occurred too quickly and unevenly.
After dividing the end part of the pipe into equal parts, followed by marking with a felt-tip pen, it is necessary to draw a line from the center point of the pipe to one of the edges of the deformed end. The correct tilt is considered to be the position inside the bow from bottom to top.
Having retreated a distance of 3 cm from each end of the pipe, you need to fix it with a marker and draw a rounding of the ends of the future bow. According to the drawn rounded line, you need to trim off all excess. By analogy with the process, do the same with the second end of the pipe. 
To hide unsightly cuts using a technical hair dryer, you need to heat them up and, after they become sufficiently elastic, bend the edges of the pipe into inner part future bow. The other end needs to be processed in the same way. Alternatively, the cuts and their edges can be refined with sandpaper.
In order for the transition area between the deformed edges and the base of the bow to be smoother, it is necessary to warm up the transition area quite slowly, focusing on the 30 cm mark and about 4 cm on both sides. As the pipe heats up, it should gradually expand and the transition section will become smooth by itself. This time can be used (while the area is heated) to create a bend in the ends of the product. Relative to the base of the bow, the bends should protrude forward. In the same way, it is necessary to create a bend at the second end of the pipe. In the end, upon completion this stage, you should get a straight pipe with ends bent forward.
Next, you need to heat up a section of pipe from the 30 cm mark to the starting line of the handle. After the procedure, you need to bend it to the inside of the bow and let it cool. On the opposite side you need to repeat the procedure. As a result, the features of the future bow should begin to be visible.
And at the final stage it is necessary to bend the handle. This process is necessary for ease of use of the bow. According to the already familiar principle, it is necessary to heat the area reserved for the handle with a technical hair dryer and press it between the legs, creating the appearance of an ellipse. The tapered parts of the ellipse should be perpendicular to the person holding the bow. At the same time, you need to lift the opposite parts of the bow, while achieving a change in the position of the handle, it should bend into the inner plane of the bow.
We complete the production of the bow by creating places for tightly stretching the nylon thread or twine. Having retreated about 2 mm from each end of the bow and about 1 cm from the front part, you need to make the corresponding holes in the intended mark with a drill. The diameter of the holes should be about 5 mm. After that, with a special saw it is necessary to cut a groove at an angle, located from the edge of the bow to the drilled hole. Naturally, the process must be repeated at the other end of the bow.
To give the onion a beautiful appearance, you need to apply a layer of dyes to the surface of the onion, thereby decorating it. You need to choose the color according to your desires. If you lightly sand the surface of the onion before applying paint, you can ensure ease and quality of application. coloring texture. You need to wrap tape or another tape around the ends of the bow (focusing on the 30 cm mark) and the area under the arm.
Now you can use the product you created with your own hands.
Method number 2.
As has already become clear, this place will be intended for the handle. We must not forget that all sizes are approximate; if the palm is much larger, then the markings should be carried out, taking into account the size of the person’s palm. Otherwise, holding the bow will simply be awkward.
Using construction equipment, you need to heat one side of the pipe from the starting line of the handle to the very end. After the polyvinyl chloride pipe has become softened and flexible, you need to lay it in a pre-created structure made of boards.
If you use a polypropylene pipe, the boards will not help create a clamp and deform it. In this case, in addition to boards, you need to use more rigid and durable materials and devices, for example, iron angles and a tool with which you can clamp the pipe. After clamping one part of the pipe, it is necessary to bend it. All of the above actions must be done with the second part of the future bow. 
Next, you need to start shaping the handle. Having protected your hands with gloves or any rag, after warming up the desired part, you need to create a comfortable place in which you are supposed to hold the bow. In the case of using polypropylene pipes, to create a handle it is necessary to repeat the steps using more rigid tools. You need to try not to overdo it, flatten it just a little. 
Then it is necessary to measure a section 15 cm long from each end of the pipe. Using any tin can, you need to place one end with the measured point on it so that the point defining the 15 cm segment is located strictly in its center. From this moment you can start working with a technical hair dryer, bringing the pipe to flexibility. Having brought it to the desired state, the softened section must be twisted around the circumference of the container. 
It is important to note that you need to be careful and not overdo it. In case of severe overheating of a polyvinyl chloride product, it will begin to change color, turn yellow and lose its quality properties. If you overheat a polypropylene pipe, it will simply spread.
When constructing a mount for the tension thread, you need to cut double-sided recesses at the ends, while controlling the depth. You shouldn't make them end-to-end. The same rope made of polypropylene and nylon is suitable as a bowstring. Alternatively, you can try cotton. If you have any other rope available that does not have the ability to stretch, you can use it without any doubt. 
To make arrows for a bow, you can purchase factory-made narrow wooden slats. To feather an arrow, it is recommended to use a natural feather; when fired, it will not injure your hand. The length of the slats must be selected so that when tensioning the product it is enough. To prevent the arrows from sliding along the thread, you need to cut indentations at their ends. To ensure good penetration into objects, the opposite ends of the arrows must be well sharpened and veiled with hard material. Now you can use it for pleasure.
All three methods of making a bow from PVC pipes are considered, and the choice of the simplest and most convenient is up to you.
Greenhouse on suburban area Not only is it a decoration, but it also allows you to get a harvest of environmentally friendly vegetables for the whole family.
To achieve this goal, a PVC greenhouse built with your own hands is ideal. The standard designs offered on the market are not always suitable for the site in size and shape.
One of the popular ways to arrange this simple structure is to make it yourself. For this, various materials, designs, and installation methods are used.
Don't need a greenhouse? We invite you to read the article -.
Types of greenhouses
Devices for organizing closed ground can differ significantly from each other. This depends on many factors, including the shape of the structure, materials for its manufacture, seasonality of use, the presence of heating and its type.
When using PVC pipes, the following designs are usually suitable:
- wall-mounted - the structure is adjacent to one or two walls of a building, residential or technical;
- a greenhouse with two slopes in the shape of a house;
- polygonal, having broken roof;
- arched - with a round dome.
Wall buildings
They are usually installed against a wall on the southwest or south side of the building. In this case, it acts as a kind of accumulator of thermal energy, heating up during the day and releasing it during the cool night time.
This allows you to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations, which has a beneficial effect on plants.
The disadvantage of such greenhouses is the constant exposure of the wall to air of increased humidity in the internal atmosphere, which can contribute to its premature destruction.
This can be avoided by plastering the surface and painting it waterproof paint. To attach the greenhouse frame to the wall, you can use tubular brackets in the form of a glass.
The internal size of the pipe must correspond to the outer diameter of the plastic pipe of the frame so that it fits freely into it. The connection must be secured with a screw perpendicular to its axis. The metal bracket must be painted to protect it from corrosion.
As a covering for such a greenhouse it is advisable use monolithic polycarbonate. It is transparent, which makes the building an additional decoration of the exterior of the site.
Gable types
This is the most common form for closed ground devices. The popularity is explained by the simple shape of the frame, which can be made by hand using standard PVC pipes and fittings.
This frame is strong, durable and quite resistant to wind and snow. Such frames provide a low reflection coefficient, and this contributes to optimal heating of the PVC greenhouse under the influence of sunlight.
If you install the ramp under more acute angle, you can achieve random removal of snow masses from the roof, which eliminates the need for periodic cleaning in winter.
But this is only possible on a hard surface that does not sag under load. Window glass or cellular polycarbonate has this property.
Gable greenhouses are equipped with doors and vents for ventilation. They release warm, moist air that accumulates under the roof.
If the side walls of such a greenhouse are installed with a slope, the illumination in the morning and evening hours will be higher. This complicates the design somewhat, but in mid-latitudes such a solution will be justified.
Arched structures
Without a doubt, they are the most popular forms of structures for constructing closed ground. The design is durable, good stability and incredibly simple to install. In addition, preparing the site for its installation does not require complex decisions.
Thanks to the use of lightweight PVC pipes, the greenhouse frame is light enough to be moved to another location without disassembly, which improves the ability to optimize crop rotation.
The versatility of the material allows you to choose any size and configuration of the structure.
The arched shape of the greenhouse is demanding regarding its location in space. The building must be oriented its axis from south to north. In this case, in the morning and evening hours there will be maximum amount sunlight.
In the daytime, the dome part of the greenhouse is most illuminated, where the refraction of rays is not so significant.
Dome buildings made of PVC pipes
This design can be considered a variant of the arched design. This shape ensures unhindered removal of snow from the blood, which facilitates maintenance in winter period.
In addition, this form is better suited for growing tall plants. Ventilation in a dome greenhouse is much more efficient, given the reduced volume of space in the upper part of the building.
Making a greenhouse from PVC pipes with your own hands is not difficult, since the installation uses proven assembly technologies for both plumbing systems. The same fittings are used.
Site selection and site preparation
The efficiency of its use largely depends on the choice of location of the greenhouse. We have already pointed out the importance of orientation in relation to the cardinal directions. But it is also important that it is in a well-lit place, without being obscured by bushes or trees growing nearby.
In addition, the site on which the structure made of PVC pipes is installed must be on a strictly horizontal platform. The durability of the structure depends on this. If it becomes distorted, conditions are created for the polycarbonate or glass coating to shift, which may be followed by its destruction.
With a greenhouse made of PVC pipes up to 6 meters in length, it can be installed on a base made of wooden beam. It needs to be placed on a level surface in the fall, and in the spring it must be additionally checked for horizontalness and compliance with its shape.
As a rule, this is a rectangle and it is enough to ensure that the diagonals are equal. After performing this operation, the base must be additionally fixed to the ground with anchors.
When installing a wooden base, you need to add a drainage layer under it from sand and gravel mixture 10-15 centimeters thick. This will allow excess water to be more actively drained from under the greenhouse.
To install a greenhouse made of PVC pipe longer than 6 meters, it is preferable to use capital strip foundation . This is especially important for soils subject to seasonal swelling.
Calculation of the need for materials for a greenhouse made of PVC pipes + drawings
To determine the amount of materials, you need to develop a drawing of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes for making it yourself.
In order not to perform tedious calculations for each part separately, it is better to use graph paper to complete the drawing. This will allow, with a certain scrupulous execution, to obtain the true dimensions through measurements. The accuracy with this method of execution is sufficient to perform the calculation.
Please note that all moldings are available in standard lengths. Therefore, when designing, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of their rational cutting in order to avoid unnecessary waste.
Standard sizes some materials:
- Pipes PVC size 20-25 millimeters are produced in lengths of 1, 2, 3 and 6 meters.
- Wood beam coniferous species– 4 or 6 meters;
- Polycarbonate cell thickness 4, 6, 8 millimeters are produced in sheets with a width of 2.05 and a length of 4, 6 or 12 meters.
- Polyethylene film with a thickness of 90-200 microns is sold in rolls, the width ranges from 1 to 3 meters. When installing, welding along the width is allowed. All you need is a household iron and aluminum foil.
The distance between the arcs of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes is selected depending on the coating material. For film it should be 0.7-0.75 meters.
If the coating is made of polycarbonate with the sheets overlapped by 10-12 centimeters, then it is necessary to provide for each sheet a support of at least 3 arches, that is, the distance between them should be: (2.05 - 0.1) : 2 = 0 .97 meters. The number of sheets is determined by the given length of the greenhouse.
The amount of materials for the end walls is calculated separately. The supporting structure is made of a wooden block measuring 50 x 50 millimeters and covered with the main covering material using planks 15-20 millimeters thick.
The design of the end walls should provide a door passage about 90 centimeters wide and a height of 1.8-2.0 meters, so that it is convenient to use a garden wheelbarrow. A window should be provided in the upper part of the end wall.
If polycarbonate is used for the coating, it is fastened in two ways:
- By applying a screed across the greenhouse body. This part is made of galvanized steel strip with a width of at least 40 millimeters and a thickness of 0.7-1.0. The length of the strips should exceed the outline of the frame by approximately 0.5-0.7 meters, which are needed to form the clamp. Tensioning is done with an M10 pin, the length of which is 20-25 centimeters, using two nuts and washers.
- Fastening to the arches with cutting screws with special compensating washers with an installation pitch of 250-300 millimeters.
To install doors and windows, you will need 2 canopies for each part. Below are the drawings various options frames with dimensions.
Connecting pipes and fittings when assembling a greenhouse
To assemble the greenhouse, PVC pressure pipes and corresponding fittings are used - couplings, angles, tees and crosses.
When a set of parts is selected, they need to be checked for compatibility. A normal fitting should be put on the pipe, immersing no less than 2/3 of its length.
Adhesive connection
Adhesive compositions for PVC contain this material as the main component, diluted with a special solvent, which keeps it in a fluid state. Additives are also used as additives various kinds to improve adhesion and give the composition the desired consistency.
After applying the glue to the parts, long chains of PVC molecules are mixed, and as a result of the evaporation of solvents, the mass thickens. The material of both parts is mixed to form a monolithic, durable unit.
When purchasing glue for PVC, you need to carefully read the instructions for use, which contain instructions on how to prepare for gluing and proper implementation process.
At room temperature The glue setting time is about 4 minutes. At a temperature of 40 degrees it is reduced to one minute.
The full-size part is cut from the pipe with special scissors. They are designed in such a way that they do not leave burrs at the end.
Watch the video
Cutting can be done with any saw with fine teeth(with a hacksaw), but after this you need to carefully remove burrs, which may adversely affect the alignment of the parts when gluing.
Before gluing the surface, the parts to be joined must be prepared in a special way. The main goal is degreasing. Gluing can be done outdoors, weather permitting. The air temperature should be within 5-35 degrees.
It is important to remember that the brush for applying the adhesive mass must be made of natural bristles, otherwise synthetic material will also be dissolved and this may damage the strength of the connection. Often, adhesive manufacturers include a brush in the package.
The parts are glued in the following order:
- Test the pipe and fitting for compliance. Mark the boundaries of glue application with a marker.
- Clean parts from burrs and gross damage.
- Degrease the surfaces to be bonded.
- Apply glue with a special brush.
- Align the parts by sliding the fitting onto the pipe. Rotate the parts at an angle of about 90 degrees and install them in the desired position. This operation should ensure uniform distribution of the glue over the surfaces.
- The parts must be held firmly for 15-20 seconds.
- Depending on the temperature environment The drying time and final setting of the glue will be up to 4 minutes.
- Excess adhesive mass from the surface of the parts must be removed with a rag.
- Glued parts cannot be moved for 15-20 minutes.
Watch the video
When gluing PVC parts, the following defects may occur:
- Partial non-gluing occurs when the glue is applied unevenly and when there is gross damage on the surface of the parts. This can also be caused by an overdried layer of glue - the time after application until the parts are aligned is no more than 12-15 seconds.
- When performing work under conditions of minimum permissible temperatures, it can lead to soft non-gluing, which indicates insufficient polymerization of the glue.
- A porous adhesive layer is formed when the glue is applied unevenly. The reasons for this may include contamination in the gluing area, poor mixing of the adhesive mass before application, and involuntary displacement during drying.
Gluing is the main method of assembly. However, when constructing greenhouse frames, there is no need for tight connections. Therefore, when performing such work, an assembly method using metal fasteners is often used.
Assembling a frame from PVC pipes with screws
The nature of the loading of greenhouse frame elements made of PVC pipes allows its assembly using fasteners. This method even simplifies the assembly process. A sloped surface is not an obstacle to drilling if you use a simple jig.
During installation, drilling may be required at the installation site. With PVC pipes this is not a problem. In the right place, it is enough to leave a deep mark, which is easily made with a sharpened triangular pin made of any metal. In this case, the drill will not slide to the side along the sloping surface.
To assemble the greenhouse, it is enough to use standard M6 bolts with a convenient head shape. To install them you will need holes with a diameter of 6.5 millimeters. Along with the bolt, you will need a corresponding nut, a standard washer and a spring washer - a lock washer. Care must be taken when tightening - PVC pipe does not have high compressive strength.
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Do-it-yourself foundation pouring
A supporting base for a greenhouse is also necessary, as for any other structure. Only in this case it works a little differently.
The greenhouse itself, especially one made from lightweight PVC pipes, has low weight and high windage. If it is not properly strengthened, it may well go “for a walk” in neighboring areas.
Watch the video - the advantages of a concrete foundation
How to build a foundation for a greenhouse:
- A support base made of wooden beams is installed if it is planned to keep the greenhouse in this place for 2-3 years. However, without displacing this structure, it is possible to simply replace wooden base.
It uses timber 150x50 or 120x100 millimeters. Before laying it, you need to level the area and remove the turf from the locations of the supporting base.
It is necessary to arrange a drainage layer of a mixture of sand and gravel 120-15 centimeters thick. Lay waterproofing made of roofing felt in one or two layers on top of the drainage.
Lay the timber along the contour of the frame. Check the resulting rectangle for equality of diagonals, secure the sides together. Before laying, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, this will increase its service life.
It should be noted that treatment with antiseptics does not guarantee a long service life of the greenhouse; it will either have to be moved after a few years or the support must be changed.
The base can be secured to the ground different ways. Most often, pieces of reinforcement 80-90 centimeters long, driven into the ground, are used. But screw anchors are more reliable. It's more expensive, but more reliable.
A layer is poured over it concrete mortar, into which the first corner block is installed. It must be carefully aligned to the horizon using building level. Then pull the cords and lay out the rest of the blocks along the perimeter. Setting time masonry mortar is about 7 days, after which you can continue to install the greenhouse frame from PVC pipes with your own hands.
- Brick foundation on concrete base installed in the presence of loose soil on the site. To install a support for the greenhouse, you need to dig a trench in the ground 40 centimeters deep and 20 wide. Along its bottom you need to make a drainage layer 15-20 centimeters thick. It needs to be compacted and watered for better compaction. Install reinforcement in the amount of two cores 5 centimeters from the bedding, using stands made of broken bricks. It is advisable to install the formwork, leveling its upper edge horizontally.
Concrete pouring should be done in one go, continuously. In this case you need to install anchor bolts M12 at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters from one another.
After the concrete has completely hardened, place a brick belt in two bricks around the perimeter.
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After a week, you can begin installing the greenhouse frame.
Other methods of making a foundation for a greenhouse using other materials are also used. Their choice most often depends on the presence and type of remains from the main construction on the site.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a greenhouse frame
Greenhouse kits various sizes sold on construction markets. The included instructions provide complete instructions on how to assemble and install them.
But their designs and sizes do not always satisfy the buyer in terms of compliance with the installation location. Then greenhouses from PVC pipes of the required sizes are made by hand.
But the basic assembly and installation techniques do not depend on this, since the components are the same.
Watch the video
The following connecting elements are used during assembly:
- A glass is a plastic product with internal diameter, corresponding to the outer size of the pipe. Attached to the base with a self-tapping screw through the bottom. The tip of the arch is inserted into the hole and secured with a screw.
- A tee is a connecting element with three holes. When assembling the arch, perpendicular coaxial holes are used, intended for installing longitudinal ribs during the installation of the frame. Used only for making outer arches.
- The crosspiece is used for the same purpose when installing intermediate arches, to which longitudinal ribs are connected on both sides.
The mating parts can be fastened with glue or screws. The second method is more often used, since greenhouses are usually installed in early spring, when the outside air temperature may not be sufficient for reliable adhesive connection.
When installing the greenhouse directly on the ground, the arches can be installed on pins.
For the manufacture of pins, reinforcing steel is used, the diameter of which is selected depending on internal size used for pipe frames. Their length is 0.6-0.8 meters, they are driven into the ground to a depth of about half a meter.
After installing all the arches, wooden box boards are installed around the perimeter of the frame. Their size is 40-50x120-150 millimeters. Fastening is done directly to the arches using a metal strip with self-tapping screws.
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Installing the frame on a prepared base is practically no different from the described procedure for greenhouses made of PVC pipes when installed on the ground.
Installation of a door for a greenhouse
A normal greenhouse requires two doors, which are installed on both end walls. Their main purpose is to provide convenient service internal space structures.
Therefore, the width of the opening must be at least 90 centimeters, which allows the free passage of a garden wheelbarrow. The height should be about 1.8-2.0 meters.
In addition, the passage structure must be sufficiently sealed to ensure the preservation of the microclimate at night.
In addition to the door, the greenhouse is equipped with several windows for ventilation of the room. They are needed to remove warm, moist air that collects in the upper part of the building and is harmful to seedlings and greenhouse plants.
To make the door, a wooden block measuring 50x50 millimeters is used. The rectangular door frame is divided by a cross member. A mandatory element is the jib, which gives rigidity to the structure. The joints of the parts are additionally reinforced with corners made of galvanized steel.
The door leaf is made of the same material as the main covering of the greenhouse - film, polycarbonate or window glass.
Watch video - door installation
Installation of the door at the place of application is carried out using standard door canopies in the amount of two pieces.
The doorway on the end walls is formed during the manufacturing process of their cladding. For this purpose they are most often used wooden blocks, even if the main frame material is PVC pipe.
Installation of coating - polyethylene film or monolithic polycarbonate
To separate the room from the outside space, it is done in several ways:
- installing a cell phone or monolithic polycarbonate thickness 4 – 8 millimeters;
- coated plastic film thickness 90-200 microns.
It should be noted that using film is several times cheaper, but it usually has to be changed annually.
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But polycarbonate, if it is of high quality (you need to be wary of Chinese counterfeits), can last up to seven years, after which the material begins to become cloudy due to wear on the outer surface.
Before installing polycarbonate sheets on the upper ends of the arches, you need to install a self-adhesive sealing tape.
The sheet is installed in such a way that the internal cavities are located vertically. In this case, moisture does not accumulate in the voids.
For installation, special fasteners are used, taking into account the properties of the material, for working with which you only need a standard tool.
Watch video - installation and fastening of polycarbonate
A thermal washer and an elastic sealing ring are installed under the screw, and its head is protected by a cap. It should be remembered that this material has an increased coefficient of thermal linear expansion. Therefore, the hole for the screw should be 1.0-1.5 millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw.
The distance between the fastening screws should be no more than 400 millimeters.
Joints and abutments of polycarbonate coverings are made using additional elements.
The procedure for installing polycarbonate is as follows:
- The end walls of the greenhouse are covered with sheets.
- The excess parts are cut out along the frame generatrix. To do this, you can use an ordinary construction knife.
- Openings for doors and windows are cut.
- The first sheet of polycarbonate is applied and secured. In this case, you need to make an overhang of 8-10 centimeters.
- Next, the remaining sheets are sequentially applied and fastened.
Installation of the film coating is carried out in the following order:
- The end walls of the greenhouse are covered with film. In this case, at the edges of the door and window openings, it is fastened with strips of 15-20x40 millimeters and nails 60-70 long.
- The film is fastened along the frame generatrix with a construction stapler as a temporary measure.
- The film is installed over the frame after sealing the ends. It is positioned in such a way that there is an overlap on the lower wooden base, to which they are attached with planks. If the greenhouse is installed directly on the ground, the edges must be tucked under the base of the frame and covered with earth.
- The edges of the film on the end sides are wrapped and secured with strips along with the previously installed film on the end wall.
Pros and cons of PVC
The material has a range of positive qualities, consisting of the following:
- Quick and easy installation and dismantling of structures.
- The disassembled structure takes up little space and has little weight.
- The construction of a greenhouse from this material does not require any special skills or abilities and can be built with your own hands.
- Availability and low cost of materials for greenhouse construction.
- High strength and impact resistance external factors.
- The service life of a PVC frame is estimated at at least 10 years.
Even with a strong desire, it is not easy to find obvious flaws in the design of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes. It is considered dangerous to place them in regions with strong winds.
But this applies equally to any materials. And there is only one solution - installing additional braces and stiffeners. For durability, it is also not recommended to use in such conditions. soft material for covering.
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