Installation of plumbing equipment is carried out in strict accordance with building regulations and norms. Home craftsmen are often afraid of such work. They take advantage of this service companies, which ask for very decent money for performing fairly simple operations. Meanwhile, attaching the toilet to the floor is an activity that can be done independently. It is only important to carefully read existing technologies works, choose the most suitable one, and follow all instructions exactly.
Regardless of the chosen method of attaching the toilet, installation work begins with assembling the flush cistern. The device is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed in the place intended for it. Also, before installing the toilet, water supply and drainage units must be prepared. There are several methods for attaching devices. The main selection criterion is the floor material on which the equipment will be installed. Let's take a closer look at the most common methods.
Method No. 1: installation on dowels
The most practical method that allows you to install the device with the least amount of effort and time. It is optimal for use on a flat, smooth base, since the slightest differences in height negatively affect the quality of flushing. It is preferable to use this fastening method for lightweight compact structures, since the fixation may not be entirely reliable. Plumbers advise installing the equipment on a special gasket, which you can easily make yourself from old linoleum or a sheet of thin rubber. The toilet bowl is installed on the workpiece and traced along the contour with a marker. After which sharp knife or simply use scissors to cut out the gasket of the desired shape.
The device is fixed to the floor using dowels or special plumbing fasteners. Fasteners are usually included with new equipment. It can also be purchased in specialized stores
Now you need to mark. We “try on” the toilet in the place prepared for the equipment and trace it along the contour. We remove the device. Apply thin layer sealant and glue the gasket onto it. This design will be the most reliable, although some craftsmen prefer to do without a substrate at all. You can start drilling holes for fasteners. As practice shows, if you glue the gasket well and choose the diameter of the drill so that the holes for the fasteners are slightly larger than it, then further installation will be much easier. This is due to the fact that the rubber backing acts as a kind of “contact spot” for the floor and the device.
It happens that you need to not only fix the toilet to the floor, but also raise it a little. This is relevant if there are several devices in the apartment. Then the last one in the system needs to be raised by about 3-4 cm. In this case, use a piece of a two-inch board, which is used as a stand. It is cut exactly along the contour of the toilet and laid on the floor, with a rubber backing placed on top of it. All this is held together with sealant and forms a reliable and robust construction. We drill holes for fastenings directly along the gasket.
You need to tighten the fastening on the base of the toilet very carefully. Excessive force may damage the ceramic material from which the device is made.
Long metal dowels or special plumbing fasteners can be used as fastenings. The latter usually come complete with new equipment. Their quality of fastening is approximately the same, so you can use both options. We hammer the dowels into the holes prepared in the floor. We install the toilet and carefully screw it on. It must be remembered that if over-tightened, the ceramic from which the device is made may be damaged.
Now you need to connect the device to the sewer. At this stage we pay special attention to the corrugation. Generously lubricate both edges with silicone. We insert one of them into the sewer socket, and put the second one on the toilet outlet. All areas of the connection should be carefully pressed with your fingers to ensure a good seal. As additional measure You can use metallized tape to seal the joints. We connect the water supply and the device is ready for use. There is a similar fastening method, which is presented in detail in the video.
Method No. 2: glue installation
Of all the methods for fixing a toilet to the floor, this is the simplest, but at the same time the most time-consuming. For hardening epoxy mixture, which is used as glue, takes about 12-15 hours. This method can only be used on a smooth surface. It is most often used to secure equipment to floor tiles. The method is very simple to implement. First, both surfaces to be glued must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Floor tiles can be sanded to make them rougher. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces are degreased with any solvent or acetone.
Prepare the glue. You can buy ready-made epoxy composition or cook it yourself. To do this, you need to take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy resin, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of hardener. The sequence of adding components to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, then a hardener and, at the very end, cement. The composition must be constantly stirred to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.
To ensure the toilet is securely locked in place, flooring prepare: clean for better adhesion and coat with a small layer of glue. Excess composition released under the weight of the equipment is immediately removed with a damp cloth.
A properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within one and a half hours. We apply it to the base of the toilet so that the solution covers an area of at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, aligning the sewer socket with the outlet, and forcefully press it to the floor. After which we leave the device for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the adhesive to harden. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage.
Method No. 3: fastening with taffeta
This method is most often used to install toilets on wood floors. Taffeta is a pad of durable wood to which the equipment is attached. The thickness of the board from which the element corresponding to the shape of the toilet support column is cut should be 28-32 mm. To protect the part from dampness, it must be carefully treated with drying oil. To securely fasten it to the floor, anchors are installed at the bottom of the taffeta. The simplest option is nails driven in in a checkerboard pattern, which should protrude 2-3 cm from the part. The recess prepared for installing the toilet is filled cement mortar. Taffeta is sunk into it with anchors. As a result, it should be flush with the floor.
After approximately 12 hours, during which the solution completely dries, you can begin attaching the equipment. The device is fixed with screws. Rubber washers must be placed under their heads, which will prevent possible damage to the toilet frame when tightened. Experts advise lubricating the screws with grease or graphite before work so that later, if necessary, they can be easily unscrewed. Wood taffeta can be replaced with a rubber backing. She's cut out of sheet material thickness from 5 to 15 mm, possibly even from an old rubber mat. Such a substrate should be 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support stand.
Fastening the toilet to taffeta involves the use of a special wooden insert. The diagram shows all the elements of such fastening
The methods for attaching a standard toilet to the floor are varied. They differ significantly in complexity and time spent on installation work. It is important to choose the correct fastening method. It depends on the material from which the floor in the room is made. You can carry out the installation work yourself, but if you have no experience or desire, it is better to turn to professionals. They will quickly and competently carry out all the work, guaranteeing long and flawless service of the new equipment.
Installing a toilet is a responsible process that is best left to the professionals. However, this is not always possible, so it will not be superfluous to know how to install this important item in the toilet room yourself. At first glance, the procedure is optimally simple. You just need to connect the toilet to the water and sewer pipes and securely fasten it. What this whole procedure actually looks like will be discussed below.
Process Features
In fact, the correct installation of a toilet is, of course, a complex matter. However, if you understand its technology, you can install a toilet efficiently and save on the services of a plumber. At the same time, you will be able to grow in your own eyes. Recently, the number of toilet models has increased significantly; if you wish, you can find one that will not seem difficult to install.
Along with them, in addition to the traditional installation method, other fastening methods appeared. For example, now the method when the tank is hidden in the wall has become especially popular. Wall-mounted toilets, which are attached directly to the wall, completely freeing up the floor, have also become widespread. Such models look very interesting; they are no more difficult to mount than models with floor fasteners.
The installation of the toilet is also influenced by the type of fastening, flushing, sewer pipe supply, and its dimensions. Special attention Pay attention to the evenness of the surface on which it is planned to install the plumbing fixtures. That is why it is better to think in advance about the model of the toilet and the type of room in which you will have to install it yourself. This is especially true for toilets and bathrooms in new buildings. It is worth considering the size of the room so that installation is easy and correct.
When installing toilets in apartments or houses where there is already a toilet, you should also consider dismantling the old product, as well as repairs. Another point that is worth thinking through in advance is the availability of all necessary tools, including hammer drill, screwdrivers, dowels. By purchasing new toilet, you should carefully inspect the bowl and tank before packing it. The product should not have chips or cracks. They can cause the new product to leak.
Particular attention should be paid to the internal cavities, as well as the toilet outlet. It would not be superfluous to clarify what it consists of complete set. For example, when buying in a store, you should ask the seller if it contains a seat, fasteners to the floor or wall. If something is missing, it is better to immediately purchase all the missing elements. This will allow installation without any problems.
Types of structures
There are now a huge variety of types of toilets, as well as the parameters by which they are divided. This often causes buyer confusion. From all this variety you need to choose one toilet. At the same time, it is desirable that it fits perfectly into the toilet room.
By size, toilets are divided into:
- universal, the most common model;
- children's, which with their small size are very convenient for children;
- for people with disabilities, differ in different designs.
There are two types of toilets based on the type of installation.
- Floor-mounted, fixed to the floor. This type is divided into corner and wall.
- Hanging. Such models are mounted on the wall using special fasteners (installations). They are called wall-mounted or built-in.
An important point is the compatibility of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation. The dimensions of the installation should be selected based on its location. In addition, the installation allows you to install not only a toilet, but also a bidet.
Installations are:
- block, which are mounted only on a load-bearing wall;
- frame, which can be mounted anywhere.
There are also several separate types for connecting the toilet to the sewer system.
With horizontal outlet
Such toilets are connected to the sewer exclusively at an angle of 95 degrees. Such models are especially convenient when the sewer pipe runs through the wall. However, using a corrugated pipe, the toilet can be equally easily connected to the floor. This type initially became widespread in Europe, and not so long ago here.
With vertical
These designs are the most common; this name hides the most ordinary toilets, which are connected to a sewer socket in the floor. Most often, such models are found in Stalinist buildings built in the mid-twentieth century.
With an oblique
Such toilets will be attached to sewer pipe at an angle of 45 degrees. These structures can be seen in all houses that were built at the end of the last century.
Flushing the toilet is one of the main points.
Based on how the cistern is installed, toilet designs are divided into three types.
- Wall mounted, mounted on the wall.
- A tank installed on the toilet. This model can be called traditional and immediately recognizable. It is easy to install from above.
- A hidden tank is built into the wall, thereby freeing up the room and making it even more attractive.
Based on the location of the drain hole, plumbing products are divided into two types.
With rear drain
In such models, water from the tank flows down the back wall of the bowl. The advantages of such a drain are that the water flow is stronger, which means it cleans the bowl better. It is worth considering that the back wall will always be dirtier, and there will be more splashes on the front. The bowls of such toilets have to be cleaned exclusively using household chemicals.
With circular
Water enters the toilet bowl through several holes, so the entire surface is washed more evenly. Of course, in these models, cleaning the back wall is worse, but in general, there is less splashing.
The water supply to the tank is in different ways and also affects the installation of the toilet. It can be bottom, side and rear.
Based on the position of the water surface, three types can be distinguished.
- Funnel-shaped, when the water mirror is exactly in the middle of the bowl. This model has 1 significant drawback in the form of splashes of water during its use.
- With a shelf, it is distinguished by the presence of a visor in front of the water mirror. This design leads to the spread of unpleasant odors.
- With a sloped rear wall, the water surface is brought to the fore, minimizing splashes and unpleasant odors. Experts recommend choosing this particular model.
Based on the drainage in the upper tanks, toilets can be divided into three main types.
Bell
The bell is a cast iron tank, which is connected to the toilet using steel pipe. Inside, it is made of a lever, a chain, and a bell (cast iron plug with a gasket at the bottom). As the bell rises, it allows water to flow into the drain pipe. As soon as the chain is released, the plug drops. Among the disadvantages of this model, we can note the need to replace the gasket every few years. Another unpleasant moment is the accumulation of rust and deposits, which impair drainage.
Corrugation
The corrugation works when a rope attached to a lever is pulled. The corrugation tilts, water is sucked in. While the rope is released, the bell of the corrugation is tilted until all the water in the tank is completely consumed. Among the problems with this design, it is worth noting a leak at the base of the corrugation, which forms after several years of use.
Pear
The pear is typical for all modern drain systems. The operating principle of the design is based on the fact that a lever or button is pressed, the rod rises up, the bulb leaves the saddle, and water flows. Despite the variety of saddle and pear shapes, the disadvantages of this design are common. The most basic problem is a decrease in the elasticity of the rubber, which leads to leakage. Another drawback is that the seat becomes contaminated with deposits, which also causes leakage.
Toilets can be classified by seat material(plastic), body material (san faience, san porcelain, metal, natural stone), design and even color. Some models are equipped with a microlift. This is one of the convenient features.
Selecting a location
The layout of the toilet room should begin with the choice of toilet. It is necessary to take into account all its features. Only after this should you start further actions. Of course, if there is an old toilet, it must be dismantled. Most likely, the room will still have to undergo major renovations. And it includes updating the sewer lines, floor screed, and cladding.
Before installation, you need to evaluate the dimensions of the new plumbing fixture. This will allow you to understand how best to place it: in the center of the room or closer to the wall. It might be better to mount it on the wall or move it close to the bathroom. It is necessary to decide on the height at which it is better to install the toilet. Today modern models are able to satisfy any whim in this regard.
The unconventional location of the sewer pipe can be a difficult task. Therefore, it is worth foreseeing the most best options. It may be worthwhile to expand or extend the pipe itself, or maybe it would be better to choose a non-standard model of plumbing fixtures. Of course, it is ideal if the toilet can be connected vertically at an angle of 90 degrees. It is worth remembering that it is better if there are as few intermediate parts between the toilet and the sewer as possible.
You can draw a diagram of the location of the toilet and other items in the toilet. This will make it more clear whether angular placement of the structure is necessary or whether the generally accepted standard can be used. In modern new buildings everything is simple. After all, here the toilet is installed from scratch, all communications are connected taking into account a variety of models. In the old Khrushchev buildings everything is clearly more complicated.
Dismantling the old
When the new toilet has already been selected, the location is known, as well as its main characteristics, it is worth moving on to the next stage in the form of dismantling the old toilet. Most often, you have to clean floor-mounted toilets that are attached to the floor. You can easily and quickly handle this task yourself. There is no need to contact a specialist.
You should start by turning off the water and draining it from the tank into the toilet bowl. Then you need to unscrew the hose that comes from the drainage system to the tank. Next, unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they do not lend themselves, it is worth using by special means. They are applied to the fasteners (for about 6 minutes), completely dissolving lime or rust during this time.
Of course, you can do without such funds. For example, using an adjustable wrench or a screwdriver makes it easier to remove the mounting bolts. If you plan to throw away the old toilet, then the problem of poor tank disconnection can be solved with a hammer. After the tank fastenings are unscrewed, you should move on to the toilet fastenings. They often look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To facilitate the unscrewing process, you can use the methods described above.
When all fasteners are unscrewed, it is necessary to disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer. In old toilets, as a rule, the place where the drain is attached to the sewer pipe was coated with cement. If this is the case, you will have to remove the cement using a screwdriver and hammer. Moreover, you need to start with the coating running across the seam.
Next you should swing the drain, but leave it in place. The toilet needs to be moved in different directions to finally drain the water remaining in the knee. It is necessary to disconnect the neck from the sewer pipe. This is not always easy: sometimes the toilet may end up glued to the floor with cement mortar. In this case, use a chisel and a hammer to chip off the pedestal in parts.
The toilet should now come off easily and can be taken to the trash. If desired, you can chop it with a sledgehammer to make it easier to remove. Another important point- it is necessary to plug the sewer hole with a plastic or wooden plug. This will allow you to work without unpleasant odors.
After the old toilet is dismantled, you should evaluate the condition of the pipes. For example, before installing a new structure, experts recommend replacing cast iron pipe new plastic. Modern pipes can significantly facilitate the installation of a toilet. It may be better to replace the uneven pipe with a straight analogue to make it easier to install the toilet to the sewer drain.
How to install: step by step guide
Installing a toilet yourself is not at all difficult if you follow a few steps. step by step guide. Moreover, for installing a toilet on the floor and wall, the most important thing is a flat and prepared surface for fastenings. For installation, it is worth preparing a number of tools in advance.
The main list includes:
- perforator;
- adjustable wrench;
- wrenches;
- hammer;
- sealant;
- screwdrivers;
- roulette;
- flexible hose.
The toilet tank is supplied complete assembled form or disassembled. In the second case, it will need to be assembled before installation. It is best to start installation by laying out all the parts to make sure they are present. Following the instructions from the toilet manufacturer, you need to assemble the insides of the tank. The steps may vary depending on the type of drain system. It is worth double-checking the reliability of fastening the parts, but without extra effort especially when tightening screws and bolts.
To the floor
Floor standing toilets Installation is somewhat easier than wall-mounted ones. Yes, and so far they remain even more popular. Determine the coverage and evenness of the floor in the toilet room. Installing a toilet on the floor differs depending on the floor covering. For example, on tiled floor there is no need for additional alignment.
If there are tiles on the base, but it is not completely level, better installation carried out using chokes and screws. If the toilet is installed in a new building where there is no finishing, it is better to fill the screed and then lay the tiles. If under the old toilet there was wooden stand, it should be dismantled. The resulting empty space should be filled with cement (preferably one that hardens quickly). If the floor cannot be completely leveled, you can strengthen the tightness during installation using sealant.
They clean the sewer pipe from debris and sediments, install a tap on the water supply (if it is not there) to shut off the water to the tank. Connect the toilet flush to the sewer pipe. This can be done in one of several ways.
It is better to seal the junction of the toilet bowl with the sewer using silicone sealant. This will provide protection against water getting under the toilet when washing the floor. If the toilet bowl is connected to a cast iron pipe, it is best to use an adapter collar with a diameter of 110 mm. Before use, sealant is liberally applied to it, then it is inserted into a cast iron pipe. It is worth emphasizing that before doing this, the pipe must be cleaned of contaminants.
You can do this using a corrugated cuff. The main advantage of this method is cost-effectiveness. However, the toilet cannot be attached tightly to the socket. This method better not to choose for small rooms. Using a straight cuff, you can ensure a strong and tight connection between the bowl and the sewer. Using an eccentric collar is possible if the centers of the toilet and sewer connections are shifted. Follow a predetermined toilet installation method.
For dowels
Try on the product again. Particular attention should be paid to the angle of inclination, as well as how the height of the sewer coincides with the neck. If inconsistencies are identified, they should be eliminated. Use a pencil or marker to outline the seat.
They make markings. To do this, determine the central axis of the toilet. It is best if it coincides with the center of the room. With a guide to the axis, you need to install the bowl at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Make marks for the holes using a marker, which is inserted strictly vertically into the holes for the fasteners.
Prepare mounting holes. To do this, you need to move the toilet to the side and use a puncher to make holes according to the marks. Then you need to clean the holes from debris and pour silicone into them, which is in this case waterproofing agent. Then you need to insert the dowels.
Install the bowl. A special layer is placed on the outlined area for planting. rubber gasket or a layer of silicone. Then they put the toilet in place and press it to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the mounting holes, the screws are tightened without unnecessary effort, securing everything with plugs. Excess silicone is removed with a rubber spatula or a damp cloth.
For adhesive
You can use silicone glue, liquid sealant, epoxy resin. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. Carry out markings. To do this, place the bowl in the required place and trace the outline with a pencil.
Prepare the base. You need to start by cleaning the floor and base of the bowl from various contaminants. For better adhesion to the glue, it is necessary to make the surface rough. To do this, it is cleaned with sandpaper. It is also necessary to degrease the base of the toilet and the floor with acetone or solvent.
Prepare the adhesive for use according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply glue to the bottom of the toilet and inner part contour on the floor. It should not be applied in too large a layer. Place the bowl in place. Be sure to press it firmly to the floor.
Wait for the glue to dry completely. This usually takes at least 12 hours. During this time, it is better not to touch the toilet or sit down. This will avoid location shifts. The fastening will be more durable.
For taffeta
Taffeta is a gasket made from durable wood. A plumbing structure is attached to it. This method Ideal when installing a toilet on a wooden floor. However, it can also be used on floors with other coatings. In addition to wood, a rubber backing with a thickness of 5–15 mm is sometimes used for taffeta. For example, you can use an old rubber mat.
Prepare taffeta. To do this, take a board, the thickness of which is 2.8 - 3.2 cm, and cut a blank from it. Next, it is treated with drying oil or a solution that can prevent rotting. For reliable fastening, anchors are fixed into the workpiece. You can also drive the nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they stick out 2 - 3 cm.
They make a hole in the floor to install the toilet. The size and configuration of the recess must fully correspond to the dimensions and shape of the taffeta. Fill the hole with cement. Take the taffeta and turn it with the anchors or nails facing down. Then they lower it into the cement on the floor. If everything is done correctly, the board will be flush with the floor.
Wait for the cement to completely harden. Installing a toilet. To do this, place the bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws, which are pre-lubricated with grease or graphite. Rubber washers must be placed under the screw heads so that the ceramic remains undamaged.
After the toilet is fixed, follow simple instructions.
- Place the tank directly on the toilet bowl and fasten it using the plastic screws included in the kit. It is important not to forget to install an O-ring gasket between the tank and the toilet.
- Connect flexible liner. It is advisable to choose a long hose for this. Particular attention should be paid to the diameter of the inlet holes so that the mount is strong. When tightening the union nuts, do not use excessive force.
- Install the cover with the seat and the release button. Recommendations for installing them are included in the instructions. The operating technology is extremely simple and understandable to everyone.
- Do a test run of water. If there is a leak anywhere, the connections should be tightened.
- Set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions.
On the wall
You can install toilets on the wall in a private house or apartment. Connecting modern models to the sewer system is completely simple.
It is worth noting that such structures can be used even with a vertical sewer outlet.
- Assemble the installation frame itself according to the instructions.
- Install the upper stops, which look like rods. They are adjusted using a screwdriver and a socket wrench.
- Install lower stops that look like plates. They are adjusted using a socket wrench.
- Adjust the height, for which purpose already assembled frame pushed towards the wall. The center of the frame should be positioned exactly above the middle of the sewer pipe.
- The installation height is adjusted using a bubble level. There is a mark on the frame that should be lowered or raised to the required height. Most often it is 1 m.
- Adjust the height of the stops, and also set the distance from the wall specified in the documents.
- Fix the exposed frame reinforcement to the wall. To do this, make marks in the required places with a pencil or marker. After this, you need to drill holes and install dowel bodies in them. Then the fastener itself is installed, having previously placed it on the sealant.
- Install the pipes, as well as couplings, into the fixed installation. They are fixed in place.
- Install metal rods. The toilet bowl will be attached to them. They are screwed into special sockets, then silicone seals are put on top.
- Pull out the sewer pipe to required distance and secure with a staple. It must be inserted into the groove until it clicks.
- Connect the water supply to the tank. To do this, open the tank lid and remove the plug on the side surface. Insert into the resulting hole corrugated pipe. It is connected to the internals with a patch nut. You need to tighten it extremely carefully, since most often the nut is made of plastic.
- A tee is installed inside the tank, to which a pipe is connected using an American connection and an adapter. A flexible hose from the tank is also connected to the tee. It is attached with a union nut.
- Cover the toilet installation with a false wall, for example, made of moisture-resistant plasterboard. As a rule, drywall is attached to the frame and profiles.
- Finish the wall and hang the toilet bowl. Install decorative panel For drain device.
- The toilet bowl is placed on the pins, and the bowl outlet fits hermetically into the plastic sewer socket.
Before installing and before purchasing a toilet, you should read the recommendations of experienced plumbers.
By following some rules, you can avoid many problems.
- The first thing experts advise you to pay attention to is the type of drain. This is especially important if the sewerage supply will not change. Using adapters, it is especially difficult to make a quality connection between a toilet and an inappropriate type of sewer outlet.
- You should not put off purchasing plumbing fixtures until the last minute, or purchase them after renovation. It is better if the space in the toilet room is prepared for a certain model toilet in advance. This will simplify the installation of plumbing.
- You should stop saving on bolts and anchors. It is better to choose nickel-plated fasteners. They do not rust. This will protect the product from unsightly drips in the future, as well as sticking of bolts.
- An eccentric collar, called a corrugation, will help compensate for the difference in floor height before and after repair. It is better to use a flexible hose to supply water to the tank.
- In the case where the sewer pipe goes through the floor, it is worth using a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff.
- An ideal installation option when the toilet flush will be connected to the sewer without any cuffs or other additional elements. For sealing, you can use a ring with a rubberized edge.
At uneven floor In the toilet room, the toilet should be installed using silicone sealant.
Plumbers recommend using small wedges made of wood or plastic. However, with them it is also necessary to use a sealant to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet. When installing a toilet on old cast iron It's better to use sealant.
If the water line is old, it should definitely be replaced. When choosing a liner, you need to know the distance from the connections on the water pipe to the mount with the toilet tank. Then you need to replace the old flexible water line. And you should add 15 - 20 cm to it. Adapters for threads at the joints or FUM tape should be purchased in advance.
When installing a toilet on tiles, the surface must be sealed to avoid cracks.
To do this, make marks in the right places. They put a self-tapping screw on it and hit it with a hammer several times. After this, you can drill the tiles with a perforator or drill, but only without impact mode.
If sewer riser made of cast iron, it must be stripped down to the metal, then thoroughly washed and dried. After this, dry and clean metal surface sealant is applied. Moreover, you need to put it down a little more. After this, it must be connected to the corrugation.
You can also apply sealant outer part connections.
- To easily and without damage remove the corrugation connecting the toilet and the sewer, its outlet and the outlet of the toilet are lubricated with wet soap. And only after this procedure is the sewer socket put on.
- Before you make marks with a marker through the holes in the sole of the bowl, you need to sit on it and check how comfortable it is. If necessary, you need to immediately correct the position.
- Should not be used plastic dowels, coming in combination with toilets. They break quickly, so it is better to give preference to other fasteners.
An additional insert in an old cast-iron sewer pipe can be removed using a hammer drill or burned out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. You can burn it if the cavity was filled with sulfur or clogged with a heel. Before burning, it is necessary to ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and remove all flammable products and materials.
Inserts that are too strong are best cut using a grinder or electric welding.
To properly install the toilet on tiles follow our step-by-step instructions, complete with photos and videos.
Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Total time: ~ 24 hours.Preparing the room for installing a toilet
It is better to install a toilet in a completely renovated room, so as not to damage the plumbing. You must have a hole ready for the outgoing sewer pipe, as well as a water outlet for the drain tank.
Tools and materials required for proper installation
To install the toilet we will need the following tools and materials:
- Adjustable wrench
- Flexible hose
- Fum tape
- Pencil or felt-tip pen
- Measuring tape
- Hammer
- Dowels and bolts (must be included with the toilet)
- Plumbing grease
- Liquid silicone
- Rubber spatula
How to properly install a toilet with your own hands
Step 1. Connection to the cistern
Shut off water access to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A faucet must be connected here. You can use an angle or straight tap according to your choice. Seal the threads on the tap with fum tape and screw the tap into the water outlet. If using an angle tap, screw it so that it faces down. Turn off the faucet valve.
Screw the flexible hose to the tap outlet. It is not necessary to use fum tape, since the design flexible hose The eyeliner is provided with a sealing rubber band.
Step 2. Marking the toilet installation guide
To install the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along two marks. This line will be our guideline, determining the direction correct installation toilet.
Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain
If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening faces the toilet outlet pipe at a smoother angle.
Advice: To make it easier to connect two pipes, use plumber's lubricant. Apply it to inner surface drain hole (lubricate the rubber O-ring) and onto the outside of the corner pipe that will fit into the hole.
The sewer drain can be connected to the toilet outlet in two ways:
- hard plastic adapter;
- flexible corrugation.
In both cases, when inserting the connector, use plumber's lubricant as indicated above.
Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor
Advice: Do not pre-connect the tank to the toilet. You will learn later in the article when and how to connect the tank to the toilet.
Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the toilet support must be smooth and free of defects. Clean it if necessary with a sharp knife.
Place the toilet base on the floor at the installation location. Refer to the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to position the toilet correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distances from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.
Connect the toilet pipe to the drain system adapter and outline the perimeter of the toilet base with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help you install it in the future without additional measurements. Also mark the locations of the mounting holes on both sides.
Step 5. Attaching the toilet to the tile floor
Move the toilet aside and drill holes in the tile for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Drive plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tiles.
Reinstall the toilet along the lines you drew and connect it to the sewer drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet into both mounting holes, but only halfway.
Step 6. Additional fastening of the toilet with liquid silicone
Raise the toilet 0.5-1 cm, place some supports in two or three places (use what you have on hand - plastic, pieces of tile, etc.). In the gap between the base of the toilet and floor tiles very carefully introduce the white liquid silicone. Do this around the entire perimeter of the toilet base. Lift the edges of the toilet with your hands and add silicone as you remove the stands. The silicone should be distributed evenly around the entire perimeter of the toilet base and create a generous “cushion”.
Lower the toilet and tighten the mounting screws completely by hand (without excessive force). Remove excess silicone that appears on the outside with a plastic spatula moistened with soapy water. Form a beautiful edging around the entire perimeter of the base.
You need to wait a few hours (see the silicone hardening time on the packaging), and only then continue to install the toilet.
How to install a toilet flush mechanism
Place a gasket on the threads of the main drain device and insert it into the technological hole of the drain tank. On the reverse side, tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.
Advice: We recommend installing a shut-off device that controls the flow of water into the flush tank after installing the flush tank on the toilet. This will make tightening the mounting screws more convenient - you will not be disturbed by the extra mechanism inside the tank.
When installing the shut-off device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose fits. Remove any rough edges to ensure a tight connection. Insert the shut-off device into the hole provided for it in the tank and tighten it on the reverse side with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools; tighten the nut by hand.
How to install a flush cistern on a toilet
After the silicone has completely hardened and the flush mechanism of the tank has been assembled, you can begin installing it on the toilet.
Between cistern and the base of the toilet you need to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (included with the toilet). Then slide the tank onto the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet line up with the holes on the tank. The connecting screws should have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone washer. Insert the mounting screws into the holes in the drain tank and use plastic nuts (horns) to tighten them on the other side. When tightening the screws, make sure the tank is horizontal.
Screw the flexible hose supplying water to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of fum tape, since the connection will occur through a rubber gasket.
The installation of the flush tank on the toilet is completed, you can open the tap and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.
Place the lid on the drain tank so that all elements of the trigger mechanism fit into the hole. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this stage, the installation of the toilet cistern is complete.
How to install a toilet seat and toilet seat
The simplest thing remains. Place the seat on the toilet and insert the mounting screws into the holes. Without special effort tighten the screws on the back of the toilet with nuts. The toilet seat installation is complete.
Video lesson: How to properly install a toilet on a tiled floor in a toilet
The work is completed. You installed the toilet yourself and rest assured, you did it right!
By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be installed in the traditional way or in a more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
H h h1 L l l1 B b With a solid cast shelf, mm 370 and 400 320 and 350 150 Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) 330 435 340 and 360 260 Without solid cast shelf, mm 370 and 400 320 and 350 150 460 330 435 340 and 360 260 Children's 335 285 130 405 280 380 290 210 Set for work
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
If a toilet is installed on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
Removing the old toilet
First step. Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or an open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer.
In older buildings, drains are usually secured using cement coating. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, it is necessary to clean off the wax ring
Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
Getting ready for installation
The base for installing the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and has no differences in level, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- If the floor is tiled and is not level, we install the toilet using choppers. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, the choppers are driven into them at a level, and then the toilet is attached to the choppers using screws;
- if it is planned to replace the tiles, dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed if the old one has differences in level;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
Installation procedure for a regular toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners
Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet
Prices for components for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:
If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:
Useful advice! If the toilet connection is drain pipe is carried out using corrugation; in most cases, sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms are usually sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly procedure may vary slightly for different models).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.
Modern version installations. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
We install a wall-mounted toilet on the installation
Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is installation of the frame
We carry out installation metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- Place the drain button at approximately a meter distance from the floor;
- between the fastening points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- wall-mounted toilet hang at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between the cistern and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost all modern tank models allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it!
The best way to connect is to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. We clarify these points separately and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
For this we use moisture resistant drywall thickness from 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
- screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet (included in the kit);
- We close the drain holes with plugs (also included in the kit) so that they do not become clogged with dust and debris;
- We make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Useful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be done in reverse order, whatever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (a gasket can be installed instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure the plumbing product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installation wall model toilet.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is fine, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article - and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Happy work!
Video - DIY toilet installation
