Constantly gurgling water in the tank and, as a result, money that is paid for water supply flowing into the sewer - a typical picture of a broken toilet. To solve this problem, you need to change the fittings for the flush tank. How to do this and how to choose the right one will be discussed in this article.
Everyone is familiar with the sound of water running in the toilet. This sound indicates that it is time to repair the toilet. At first glance, the problem is very serious and insoluble without the appropriate knowledge and skills. However, this is only at first glance. In fact, toilet repair most often means repairing or replacing broken cistern fittings. This procedure is simple and will not take you much time.
How is the flush cistern constructed? In fact, it contains two devices independent from each other - a fill valve (through which water enters the tank) and a drain column (it ensures the flow of water from the tank into the toilet and, accordingly, flushing). The combination of these two devices forms the fittings for the toilet flush cistern. Various manufacturers offer their models with some unique designs, in different forms and colors. Despite such diversity, it is important to understand that almost all of them are universal (the probability that a universal fitting purchased in a store will suit you is about 95%). That is, knowing your type, you can easily buy the fittings you need at any plumbing store. This article does not cover fittings for built-in tanks at all. The fact is that they just do not fall into the above 95% of universal options.
And so, all that remains is to find out what types of fittings there are and how you can independently determine which one is needed in your case.
Types of fittings for flush cistern
Since the fittings, as mentioned above, consist of two independent devices, the classification can be carried out according to:
- Fill valve type:
- with side supply - the valve is mounted on the side wall of the tank. Accordingly, the filler liner ( flexible hose from water pipe to the tank) fits from the side;
- with bottom supply - the valve is mounted on the bottom wall of the tank. In this case, the liner is connected from below.
- Type of drain column:
- with a button - to flush, you need to press the button on the tank lid;
- with a rod - to flush, the rod with the decorative element at the end.
It should be noted that push-button speakers, in turn, are also divided into two subtypes:
- With single flush - one button. When pressed, all the water contained in the tank is drained.
- With dual flush - this type of speaker has a button divided into two parts. Pressing one flushes using only half of the water contained in the tank, while pressing the other causes a full flush.
Fittings for a dual-flush tank are considered more economical - you can choose the desired mode yourself. Columns with single and double flush are interchangeable, that is, nothing prevents you from buying and installing the one that suits you most, but it should be noted that the tanks have different capacities. For small volumes, a half flush may not be enough.
A hole of a larger diameter was made in the tank lid for the push-button fittings than for the rod fittings. Therefore, in most cases, replacing a column of one type with a column of another will not work.
So, taking into account all the above, we get six types of valves: with a stem with a side connection, with a stem with a bottom connection, with a single button with a side connection, with a single button with a bottom connection, with a double button with a side connection and with a double button with a bottom connection .
Separately, it is worth dwelling on the old-style fittings. Nowadays there are still many cisterns installed on the toilet with such fittings, or cisterns mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet by a pipe, in which old-style fittings are also mounted. It consists of a column with a rod (vertical or lateral) and a side fill valve. In force design features and more relaxed requirements for efficiency, the drain column from such fittings cannot be replaced with a modern one. All that remains is to either repair and adjust the fittings for the tank so that it does not allow water to pass through, and this is very difficult to achieve, or simply buy a toilet with a modern tank, which is more preferable, especially if you have a water meter installed.
To summarize, we illustrate all types of fittings:
Fill valves. From left to right: bottom supply, side supply, old style
Drain columns. From left to right: push-button, with a rod, old style
How to choose fittings for a tank
Now let's move from theory to practice. When the question arises about purchasing new fittings for a flush cistern, a completely natural desire arises to save some money. It often leads to some typical errors:
- Despite the fact that fittings are universal, their designs from different manufacturers can differ greatly. Therefore, it is wrong to try to look for only one broken part. Chances are you won't succeed and you'll just be wasting your time. Conclusion - buy only the whole thing. As a last resort, bring the entire fitting element (column or valve) with you to the store. There is a small chance that such a spare part will be found, for example, from defective fittings.
- It is wrong to look for fittings for your specific tank, that is, exactly as it was. This is where it is important to remember that they are universal, which means that knowing your type, with a high probability any universal the right type will suit you.
This raises the question, how to determine the type of your fittings?
To determine the type of fill valve, just look at your tank, namely, where the flexible water supply hose is connected to it. If it’s on the side, then you have a valve with a side inlet. If there is no hose on the side, then the valve has a bottom supply. Look under the tank and see for yourself.
To determine the type of drain column, pay attention to what action is performed when flushing. If you press a button, then it’s a push-button one, if you pull the rod, then it’s a column with a rod.
Determine the type of your fittings and choose the name that corresponds to yours (one of those listed above) - this is what you will need to tell the seller when purchasing.
Most likely, the store will offer you several options from different manufacturers and, accordingly, with different prices. What to choose?
The price range is quite wide - from 150 rubles. up to several thousand. To choose a quality one without overpaying, you should pay attention to several nuances:
- All connections of parts to each other must be strong. Detachable ones, as a rule, snap into place, should fit tightly into each other with a characteristic click. One-piece ones should not have any backlash.
- The gaskets must be good quality. Feel them. Soft, plastic and at the same time elastic, speak about the quality of both the gaskets themselves and, accordingly, the fittings as a whole.
- Equipment - fittings of acceptable quality include all the parts necessary for installation, including bolts securing the tank to the toilet. In some cases, the fittings are equipped with spare parts (usually gaskets). Pay attention to the quality of small items. Unscrupulous manufacturers do not pay due attention to it. The result is low quality components. This should alert you.
Generally speaking, you need to know that the price of rod fittings of acceptable quality starts from 10 USD. e., for push-button ones - from 15 USD. e. At a price of 30 USD. That is, you can buy very good fittings with an increased service life (as a rule, this is reflected in an increased warranty period).
So, the fittings have been purchased, all that remains is to install them.
Replacement of fittings
Replacement of fittings begins with dismantling the old one. In some cases, there is no need to completely change the fittings. It is enough, for example, to change only the drain column or fill valve. If you change the column, you will have to completely remove the tank. Replacing the fill valve will not require this. In any case, you must first dismantle the old elements. Let's consider this process in full step by step at specific example. Let's take this toilet as an experimental sample:
It can be seen that it has a one-button fitting with a bottom supply. The procedure for replacing any other one, including a rod one, for example, with a side supply, will differ little from that described. Differences in operations will be noted.
All work begins with shutting off the water at the inlet to the tank or the entire water supply branch. After this, you need to flush the water in the tank into the toilet.
1. Remove the button. In our case, it turns counterclockwise. It happens that the button is attached to the tank lid. The cover will then be removed without dismantling it. Then just move on to the second step. For rod fittings - unscrew the decorative knob on the rod and unscrew the cover that covers the hole in the tank through which the rod passes (of course, if it was screwed on).
2. Remove the cover and see this picture. In the center is a drain column. On the side there is a fill valve. If the length of the supply hose is sufficient to remove the tank and place it on top of the toilet, then move on to the next point. Otherwise, turn off the eyeliner.
3. The drain column is collapsible - consists of two parts. To make it easier to carry out work, we dismantle the upper part. To do this, turn it 90° (it will detach from the bottom part with a snap):
and take out:
The bottom of the column will remain inside. On the sides of it you can see the heads of the bolts securing the tank to the toilet.
4. Unscrew the fastening nuts under the tank. As a rule, this can be done simply by hand.
After draining, a small amount of water will remain. When the nuts are unscrewed, this water will flow out. So put a rag on it.
5. Now nothing prevents you from lifting the tank up and placing it on the toilet for the convenience of subsequent work.
There is a sealing gasket left at the landing site:
6. In our case, dismantling the tank could be done without first disconnecting the liner. If it is necessary to change the filling valve, then we perform this operation now.
Flexible hoses can be twisted and unscrewed by hand. The key is used only when absolutely necessary.
7. Unscrew the column mounting nut:
and valve mounting nut:
8. Take everything out of the tank. Here, in fact, this is the dismantled fittings:
Now you can begin installing the new fittings. All operations are carried out in reverse order, the only caveat is that for convenience, it makes sense to put the gasket between the tank and the toilet on the fastening nut before installation.
The entire operation takes five to ten minutes. Threaded connections, as mentioned, are screwed in by hand and only if necessary are tightened with a wrench.
You can endlessly try to repair old leaking fittings, every month being surprised by the huge bills for consumed water, or you can spend 10 minutes and radically solve the problem for a long time by simply replacing the fittings completely. Now you know how to do this.
Even the most reliable plumbing fixture can break down. It is especially unpleasant if this product is used daily by all family members. If the toilet cistern fittings have failed, you don’t want to wait a couple of days for a plumber to come, don’t you agree? Moreover, such a problem can be successfully solved on your own.
Before you begin the repair, you need to understand the design of the tank, the structure of the drain mechanism and understand the principle of operation of the drain. The article discusses in detail all of the above points, and also describes possible breakdowns of the toilet fittings and how to eliminate them.
The toilet occupies a central place in any bathroom. If you can do without a shower or bathtub using a tray for ablutions, then the toilet is an indispensable device not only for every family member, but even for some pets.
Therefore, it is simply necessary to know its features and structure so that on a Saturday morning you do not find yourself face to face with such a breakdown.
You can repair or replace the tank fittings yourself. The main thing is to turn off the water before starting work and read the manufacturer’s recommendations for adjusting the structure
Features of cisterns
Toilet tanks differ in the material they are made of, the method of installation and connection to the water supply, and the type of button/lever location. Yes and price range This type of plumbing fixtures is very wide - from inexpensive domestic models to exclusive design options renowned manufacturers of plumbing fixtures.
Based on the material of manufacture, the following types of toilet cisterns are distinguished:
- earthenware;
- plastic;
- cast iron.
The drainage fittings used for toilets are mainly made of plastic. This applies even to expensive models.
Only in exclusive options plumbers use metal fittings. Moreover, it is made of brass and bronze alloys
Earthenware tanks received recognition and wide spread throughout the world. It is this material that can most often be found in bathrooms where a pair of toilet + cistern is installed.
Earthenware products are produced by both domestic manufacturers and famous Western companies. Choose the most best option for your bathroom will not be difficult
Plastic models drain tanks have a flattened shape. This is due to the specifics of their application - the so-called when the flushing device is installed in the wall. The design is reliable, easy to maintain and long term services.
Plastic toilet tanks must have an inspection window after installation. It is usually located behind the flush button
Cast iron tanks– this is a relic of the past. Heavy, bulky and unpresentable designs are still used by many zealous residents of our country. But during renovations, old cast iron products are often replaced with beautiful modern plumbing fixtures.
Depending on the method of connection to the water supply, there are toilet tanks with upper and lower connections. The latter are more preferable - they look more presentable and create less noise during operation.
The option with top liner is produced by many Russian plumbing companies. To reduce noise when filling the container after draining, the fittings have been improved
There are three possible ways to install the cistern:
- top mount;
- installation in a false wall;
- on the toilet shelf.
Top mount- This is a retro option. This arrangement drain device used in bathrooms made in retro style.
Retro-style toilet cisterns are very popular among owners of large bathrooms. In a modest bathroom such a product would be inappropriate, and its price is very high
Toilet installation used for hanging models when the tank is hidden in the wall. This allows you to save space in the bathroom and harmoniously fit the plumbing into the overall style of the bathroom/toilet room.
The tanks built into the installation, hidden by a false wall, differ more at a high price compared with inexpensive domestic plumbing fixtures made of earthenware
Installation on the toilet shelf- traditional solution. These are the usual models of a plumbing pair, when the drainage system is attached to the shelf of the toilet bowl.
Advantages: simplicity and affordability. And the choice is very wide - you can choose both a domestic version and elite plumbing fixtures from Italian, French or German manufacturers.
A flush cistern on the toilet shelf is the most convenient option to maintain. If there is a need for repairs, it is easy to get to the fittings
Internal structure of the tank
Inside each flush cistern there is a shut-off valve to control the operation of the toilet. For many models, the fittings come complete with all the necessary fasteners and nuts.
Based on the method of water supply and installation location in the tank, the following types of fittings are distinguished:
- top eyeliner;
- bottom eyeliner;
- universal.
Top connection design built into the collection tank. Flexible tube for water supply it is connected from above. This must be taken into account, because such fittings are not suitable for every model of cistern. Basically, only domestic manufacturers provide top connections in their plumbing products.
Fittings with bottom connection comes included with most cisterns Western production. Moreover, the design is plastic, but the quality of all components is high.
Most often you may encounter the following problems:
- filling does not occur;
- water constantly flows into the toilet bowl;
- lack of response when pressing a button/lever;
- leaks at joints;
- weak drain pressure.
Problem #1. Filling does not occur if the inlet membrane is severely clogged. Then you cannot do without cleaning or replacing it. If the membrane is in working condition, but the tank is not filled with working fluid, then you need to check the correct functioning of the float. Perhaps it's coming.
In built-in models, inspection, adjustment and repair of fittings passes through an inspection hole hidden behind decorative panel with button
Problem #2. Water constantly flows into the toilet, increasing the meter readings cold water. This problem occurs when large debris or other objects get into the tank. Anything unnecessary interferes with the normal operation of the tank’s filler fittings. It is also necessary to remove foreign objects from it.
It can also cause misalignment, loosening or breakage of the float. You can repair the float valve without much difficulty with your own hands:
Image gallery
Before we begin repairing the float valve that controls the water supply to the tank, we turn off the water supply to it
We flush all the water from the toilet tank by pressing the key, button or handle intended for this purpose.
Unscrew the screws attaching the valve to the float located around it
If necessary, move the device holding the toilet tank float
Remove the membrane or washer from the valve locking mechanism. If they are damaged, replace them with similar ones.
Using vinegar and a brush (or an old toothbrush), remove calcium and rust deposits around the float valve.
Reinstall the membrane or washer, assemble the plumbing fixtures, and close the tank with a lid.
We check the operation of the repaired float valve. If everything is in order, we proceed to operation
Step 1: Turn off the water supply to the tank
Step 2: Flush all water from the sanitary cistern
Step 3: Unscrew the fasteners around the valve
Step 4: Offset the Float Holder
Step 5: Removing the Valve Washer or Diaphragm
Step 6: Remove any sediment around the float valve
Step 7: Reinstalling the Washer or Diaphragm
Step 8: Check Float Valve Operation
If everything is in order with the float, you need to check the condition of other plastic parts of the fittings - the rod, the diaphragm lever or the float spoke.
Problem #3. When I press the flush button, nothing happens. Here you have to check for gaps in places where they should not be - at the joints. Also, the plastic parts of the fittings may be broken, which is especially common in cheap models that have served for more than 3 years.
A frequent cause of a disruption in the water supply to the tank is the inappropriate length of the drain and fill tubes or their damage. To combat the situation, we take the following steps:
Image gallery
If the water flows into the tank too weakly or splashes when entering, check the condition of the drain-overflow mechanism. The overflow tube should be approximately 1 cm below the drain button or handle
If splashing occurs when draining water from the tank, shorten the filler tube to the required length
If damage is found on the filling tube or its condition does not inspire confidence in long-term service, cut off a tube of equal length. It should be equal in diameter to the worn tube
Insert a new piece into the seat of the old filling tube and, if necessary, adjust it to length
Step 1: Checking the Overflow Tube Position
Step 2: Check the condition and length of the fill tube
Step 3: Cutting a new filler tube for replacement
Step 4: Putting the New Tube in Place
Problem #4. Another problem that arises with the toilet cistern is leaks in places threaded connection. To eliminate this problem, you will need to replace the sealing gasket. If this part has not yet worn out, then you need to check whether the nuts are tightened well and whether there are any distortions.
Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014
AB 69.57.55.3
Purpose of the product
Designed for filling the flush tank (popularly a cistern) with water and supplying it for flushing into the toilet.
Security measures
The materials used for the manufacture of fittings are not emitted under operating conditions. environment harmful substances and do not provide harmful effects on the human body through direct contact. Working with fittings does not require special measures precautions.
Specifications
- Operating pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
- Filling time for a 6.0 liter tank, no more than 2.5 minutes
- Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
- Diameter of the hole in the tank lid, 38…44 mm
- Installed resource is not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
- Connection size G1/2-B
- Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg
Completeness
The fittings kit includes:
Product storage and care
The fittings should be stored in packaged form in dry, closed rooms at a distance of less than 0.6 m from heating devices.
Not allowed to use detergents, which include abrasive, acid-alkali-containing substances, and organic solvents.
Manufacturer's Warranty
The guaranteed service life of the fittings is five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of production. The service life of the fittings is 6 years.
The product warranty does not apply in the following cases:
- its mechanical damage;
- installations in violation of the requirements of this instruction;
- improper maintenance during operation:
- water inconsistencies technical requirements GOST 2761-84.
To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.
Installation of fittings
The fittings are supplied in assembled form, equipped and configured for a specific type of tank
After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other or the walls of the tank.
When connecting the water hose to the inlet valve, hold the valve from turning.
To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the wing nuts evenly on both sides.
Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the push-button assembly inserted all the way into the thread of the release valve (without screwing it in).
To reliably center the threads, before screwing in, make 1 - 2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click is heard, which will indicate that the thread has “sat” into place.
- If the distance between the reservoir cap and the push-button assembly is beyond
limits 3...19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the release valve in height
(see Fig. 2 and the table for setting the height of the fittings), Disconnect rod 23 from
overflow housing 12. Press out the cup latches 10 and move
racks 6 up and down, achieve a gap of 3...19 mm.
Attach the rod to the overflow body.
- To adjust the water level in the tank
disconnect rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move
float up or down and reattach
craving for him. Minimum distance between
water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.
- After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7
(see Fig. 2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cap 9 and move the pipe
overflow to a position where the mark on the pipe corresponds to the level
water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.
* For fittings with extended post
** when adjusting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7
Reinforcement height adjustment table
| Division on the rack scale | Height H, mm | Division on the rack scale | Height H, mm |
| M** | 285-304 | 15 | 360-379 |
| 1 | 290-309 | 16 | 365-384 |
| 2 | 295-314 | 17 | 370-389 |
| 3 | 300-319 | 18 | 375-394 |
| 4 | 305-324 | 19 | 380-399 |
| 5 | 310-329 | 20 | 385-404 |
| 6 | 315-334 | 21 | 390-409 |
| 7 | 320-339 | 22 | 395-414 |
| 8 | 325-344 | 23 | 400-419 |
| 9 | 330-349 | 24* | 405-424 |
| 10 | 335-354 | 25* | 410-429 |
| 11 | 340-359 | 26* | 415-434 |
| 12 | 345-364 | 27* | 420-439 |
| 13 | 350-369 | 28* | 425-444 |
| 14 | 355-374 | 29* | 430-449 |
Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
| Fault name | Probable Cause | Remedy |
| Valve does not close | ||
| Valve does not open | Clogged hole in the slider 5 - guide 3 assembly | Disconnect guide 3 and wash the assembly with the slider |
| Slow tank filling | Filter 11 clogged | Unscrew the water supply hose, remove filter 11 from housing 8 and rinse |
| There is water leaking into the toilet | The bottom valve 13 is installed incorrectly on the overflow body 12 | Adjust the bottom landing! valve 13 on overflow body 12 J by rotating around its axis |
| Nut 21 is loosely tightened | Tighten nut 21 | |
| Overflow pipe 7 is incorrectly positioned | Adjust | |
| Thrust 23 is set incorrectly | Adjust | |
NOTE: Due to the presence of various impurities in the water, the operation of the release valve may deteriorate over time due to sediment deposited on its parts. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the valve from the seat, wash it and reinstall it.
Valve drawings
Intake valve (bottom connection) | Rice. 1
Release valve | Rice. 2
Fittings for cistern | Video instructions
Video courtesy of uklad.net
To write this article, I used the instructions included with the fittings and tank.
I also bring to your attention:
Toilet lid installation | Video instructions
The video provides extensive instructions for assembling and installing toilet seats.
With adjustable plastic, non-adjustable plastic fasteners, microlift and metal fasteners.
I wish you successful installation!
Looking at the ingenious interweaving of sewer, water pipes, hoses, having “talked” enough with gentlemen plumbers from the housing department who arrived on a regular visit regarding an extraordinary blockage or leak, after a superficial study of the structure of the toilet, having re-read a bunch of responses and advice from experienced people, you come to Volence-Nolens I conclude that a toilet with a bottom water supply is the best option.
The undoubted advantages include:
- neat, aesthetic appearance a toilet, thanks to which sewer and water pipes are not visible;
- the bottom line is practically silent and economical - the water does not “run”, since the water flow comes from the bottom of the drain barrel;
- The lower line is reliable and rarely requires repairs.
There are also disadvantages:
- this type of liner is difficult to install;
- difficulties when replacing parts - it’s easier to completely replace the system.
The efficiency of sanitary equipment directly depends on the quality of cleaning sediment from the outlet pipe elbow; this function is performed by the fittings for the toilet flush cistern.
Tank drain device
The flush cistern consists of:
- a reservoir containing water;
- fittings;
- drainage systems;
- water flush buttons.
How to choose fittings for a cistern
Initially, the diameter of the water intake pipe is measured with a tape measure or ruler. At 1.5 cm the eyeliner is 3/8 inch, at 2.0 cm it is ½ inch.
It is better to buy fittings of the same model as the old one. To do this, dismantle the failed mechanism and show a sample to the sales consultant. Nowadays, fittings are often sold already assembled, which does not require additional effort. 
How the fittings for a toilet cistern with bottom supply are arranged
The materials from which the fittings are made are plastic, metal, bronze. Plastic is the most popular, but fragile material, the cost of a product made from it is low, bronze is a correspondingly more durable material and the cost of a product made from it is quite high. There is nothing complicated in the structure of the cistern fittings. Despite the variety of models, the principle of constructing reinforcement is the same. 
The fittings intended for the lower supply are divided into:
- The drain mechanism is secured in the tank with a union nut. To seal the joint, special seals are put on the drain pipe before installation, and a gasket is placed between the drain tank and the bowl to prevent water leakage. Water is drained by pressing a button or with a rod drain device, by lifting the lever up.
The push-button device, in turn, is divided into:
- a one-button device that provides complete drainage, that is, the entire tank is emptied;
- a two-button device in which complete and partial emptying of the tank is possible; accordingly, such a drain device has two valves.
- Also different designs could be a float:
- With a piston - a float is attached to the piston, when pressure is applied to the lever, the drain opens, when water fills, the valve closes;
- With a membrane, the mechanism of action is the same as with a piston.
- The shut-off valves consist of: a float, a water overflow tube, a push-button mechanism for draining water, a rod, a glass, and a membrane valve. Draining occurs as follows: after pressing the button, water flows out of the tank, the float goes down, the diaphragm valve opens with a pull, and water flows from the water pipe, which fills the flush tank. The float rises to established level, which limits traction. The diaphragm valve closes, preventing further water flow.
Materials and tools required for installation and replacement of fittings
- Tape measure, you can get by with a regular ruler.
- Adjustable wrench No. 1.
- Wrenches.
- Fittings.
Installation of fittings
Even a non-professional can install the mechanism in the flush cistern. Initially, you should read the instructions included with the kit; you shouldn’t neglect to study them.
- First, the filling valve is installed; adapters and gaskets are used for this. For some toilet models, the filler and inlet valves are installed simultaneously.
- The system can be installed in a cistern up to complete installation toilet, to do this, place a rubber gasket on top of the drain system. Place the mechanism directly into the flush tank and secure it with a nut.
- All fasteners intended to secure the mechanism are equipped with rubber gaskets on the inside and plastic gaskets on the outside. Rubber gaskets can be treated with sealant. It is advisable to carry out this procedure even for new membranes and gaskets. Replacing a failed gasket or membrane by disassembling and assembling the device.
- If the toilet is not monolithic, then the gasket located between the tank and the bowl is also treated with sealant.
- Parts of the fittings should not touch the inner walls of the tank; a gap of 0.5 cm should be left.
- Upon completion of installation, the flush tank is installed on the toilet.
- Place the lid on the tank and screw on the flush button.
- Add water and test the drain.
How to adjust toilet fittings
If the drain test gives poor results, adjustments should be made. The rod from the overflow pipe is disconnected, the drain system lock is released so that the glass can move easily. The position of the fittings is carefully adjusted to the required level - about 5 cm to the top of the cistern, fix it, insert the rod so that the water overflow tube is immersed in water by 2 cm. The flush mechanism can have the function of draining a full or half of the cistern. The system for draining half of the tank is adjusted by adjusting the float for the smaller drain. 
Dismantling of fittings
- Turn off the water and drain it from the tank.
- Unscrew the button counterclockwise, if it is attached directly to the tank lid, remove the lid.
- Unscrew the nut connecting the system to the water supply hose using a wrench.
- Remove the old mechanism.
Causes of valve failure
- The appearance of a leak outside when draining means the gasket is leaking. The nut connecting the pipe and the tank should be tightened. If the leak does not stop, then the access to water is blocked, remove the nut, pull out the pipe, remove the gasket and either replace it with a new one or wrap it with FUM tape. Ten windings of tape will be enough.
- The water stopped draining. First check the water level in the container. If it is lower than required, then adjust the float.
- Water has stopped flowing into the tank. The reason is a clogged valve. To eliminate it, drain the water, remove the valve, use a needle or thin wire to clean the hole through which water enters the tank, and then rinse.
- Water is constantly flowing. Check the float for distortion and depressurization. You can check the integrity of the float by removing it and lowering it into a container of water. If it starts to take on water and sink, then replace it.
- The drainage is uneven and jerky. Check the fasteners of the flush mechanism lever. If the rod does not rise, then most likely the fasteners have become loose. Tighten the bolt and adjust the lever.
- The release lever does not work and needs to be replaced.
- Appearance limescale– purchase special means to remove it or use citric acid.
Regardless of the model and brand of toilet cistern, the fundamental purpose of the cistern shut-off valve remains the same:
- open the water supply if it is empty;
- turn off the water when filling it.
The cistern fittings kit consists of the following elements:
- drain mechanism (it includes a siphon with a lid and a sealed gasket between drain pipe and tank);
- jet adjustment lever (connected to the water pipe via a ball valve);
- float (adjusts the filling level of the tank). Connected to the drain mechanism with a spoke.
The design of the tank draining and filling mechanisms depends on the type of installation.
Type 1- a cistern suspended high above the toilet. This type is familiar to almost every resident of our country. Not too pretentious in appearance, it nevertheless has undeniable advantages:
- simplicity of design (which makes it easy to repair it yourself);
- the high speed with which the flow of water rushes from a height into the toilet bowl.
Type 2– a flush cistern installed on the toilet shelf. In the majority modern apartments and public institutions this type of device is used.
Type 3– a tank built into the wall. It looks more like a thick-walled polyethylene canister.
All manipulations to replace the fittings of such a tank are carried out through the drain button hole.
In order to successfully install a toilet or bidet, you need to know what it should be like, this is necessary so that the pipes do not become clogged and wear out ahead of time. The most important and up-to-date information.
If the toilet “does not leak”, then the water consumption is minimal. However, in addition to paying for water, it is necessary to regularly check water meters. There is a lot here about the cost, conditions and frequency of this procedure. useful tips, how to save on checking meters!
Drain mechanism ^
It is unlikely that the device should be considered in our time drain fittings For suspended structures: They have long lost their relevance.
Therefore, in the future we will only talk about shut-off valves The most common types are cisterns installed directly on toilets.
According to the method of activating the drain device, the mechanisms are divided into two groups:
- exhaust (rod). In order to activate the device of this group, you need to use the handle to lift the top of the rod that locks the drain hole.
IN modern models Such a mechanism is practically never found in tanks. It is preserved only in fairly old models;
- push-button (push-button). The mechanisms of this group are divided, in turn, into two subgroups:
- Croydon valve. It consists of a body, a float lever axis, a piston and a seat. The float lever drives the piston.
The piston movement in Croydon valves is vertical. This design is installed in old-style tanks.
- Piston valve. In this design, the axis of the float lever is secured in a cotter pin, split in two.
By moving, the lever forces the piston to move in a horizontal direction. The piston, periodically in contact with the seat, regulates the flow of water into the tank.
A gasket is mounted at the end of the piston, which blocks the water flow when the piston presses on the seat. Tanks with piston valves are found in many Russian apartments.
- Diaphragm valve. In this type of design, a membrane (rubber or silicone) is installed instead of a piston gasket.
The plastic piston, moving under the action of the lever, also moves the membrane. It blocks the water inlet. The diaphragm valve is the latest advancement in the production of cisterns.
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Summer water outages are not a problem if you have a water heater. One of the most popular companies in Russia is the Termex company, read about its water heaters with a capacity of 80 liters or more, let your home always be comfortable.
Method of filling the tank ^
The tank can be filled in two ways:
- through a side water supply;
- through the lower water supply.
A tank with a side inlet fills with water noisily, while with a bottom supply, water fills the container almost silently.
But many manufacturers began to supplement the tank fittings with a side inlet with an outlet pipe. It is made of soft plastic and delivers a stream of water into lower zone containers.
Thanks to this addition, The flush tanks with side inlet stopped making noise.
In what cases does the question of replacing fittings arise?
Drain cisterns supplied to retail chains are, as a rule, equipped with the necessary set of fittings.
And the majority of users are not interested in exactly what mechanisms ensure the normal functioning of the device.
But time passes, and the tank ceases to cope with its task. It is at this moment that the user has to get acquainted with his device and solve the problem of purchasing spare parts.
Moreover, the problem is not that they are difficult to buy, but how to buy a quality product.
Quality of cistern fittings plays a huge role in its normal functioning.
It is faulty mechanisms that cause various problems. For example, water begins to seep into the toilet bowl, causing the snow-white surface of the toilet bowl to become covered with red streaks.
Read more about the types, costs, sizes of toilets and bidets, what is typical, installation methods and selection tips only on our website.
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Or the flushing mechanism ceases to control the volume of water released. Such troubles can happen due to various reasons, but the most common ones are the following:
- low quality of plastic elements of mechanisms leads to their curvature. The same effect can be produced by too sharp a change in water temperature, even if high-quality fittings are installed in the tank;
- many imported production mechanisms(they use diaphragm float valves) cannot withstand the quality of our water: hard, containing a large amount of impurities (for example, chlorine). For protection imported equipment sometimes has to be installed coarse and fine filters at the entrance of the water pipe to the apartment;
- when using low quality materials for the manufacture of fittings for flush tanks, it is subjected to premature aging and abrasion.
So, in what cases does it become necessary to replace fittings:
- continuous flow of water into the tank. Such an “accident” can happen due to a misalignment of the float lever.
But if after adjusting it nothing has changed, it means the float is damaged: it lets water in, becomes heavier and sinks to the bottom. In this case, you will have to purchase a new float.
It's very inexpensive - just about 4 rubles. But in practice, if the float malfunctions replace the entire float valve. This node costs on average 200 – 300 rubles.
- Continuous flow of water into the toilet. There is only one reason for this - the siphon membrane of the drain tank is damaged. In this case, there is only one way out: replacing the membrane.
The cost of this element depends on the method of its manufacture:
- stamped membranes cost 6 rubles;
- molded with vulcanization – 30 rubles.
Many users often wonder: is it worth replacing individual elements of tank fittings?
After all, if the mechanism begins to wear out, then one breakdown will be followed by others. It is safer to replace the entire set of fittings.
In addition, it is very difficult to find, say, a membrane or a float for an imported flush tank. A Replacing a part with a non-original one often does not lead to the expected result.
If you decide to replace a set of fittings in the drain tank. Issue price ^
The cost of a set of fittings for a Polish-made Cersanit tank with a bottom water supply is 650 rubles. The kit includes:
- exhaust valve;
- filling valve;
- sealing ring;
- plastic fitting BAS 24;
- metallized button and sleeve.
The fittings for the Vidima tank are 1250 rubles. But for products of this brand You can order the membrane separately. It will cost 300 rubles.
Hybner cistern drain with stop function 1800 rubles.
The tank drain valve made in Spain by Jika costs 2800 rubles. The product is available in two versions:
- button height is short;
- The button height has been increased.
The Jika flush valve can be used in the ROCA and JIKA collection cisterns:
- dama senso;
- victoria;
- vega, etc.
Domestic-made fittings are much cheaper. For example, fittings "Way of life"(produced in Pskov) will cost the buyer from 250 to 340 rubles.
Moreover, the manufacturer states that all plastic elements are made from virgin polypropylene, and shut-off valves are produced with the addition of natural rubber.
Interesting options are offered by the Ryazan company "Center heating equipment and plumbers." They produce brand fittings "RBM" with three types of valves:
- direct action;
- membrane;
- back pressure.
They can be used in tanks with both side and bottom water supply. They have models with rod and push-button start mechanisms.
Universal design:
- with rod mechanism from 99 rubles;
- with back pressure diaphragm valve (push button) from 205 rubles.
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11 reviews per article“ What you need to know about fittings for a toilet cistern: characteristics, companies, prices”
- Oksana
It’s even strange that now a cistern suspended high above the toilet is not in fashion, yet it seems that it really is the most efficient, after all, the speed of water flow is quite important factor. I even wanted to make something like this at home, I’ll have to find out if it’s possible to do this now, otherwise I was recently in a plumbing store, but I didn’t see anything like it.
- Anna
I really like the hidden toilet flush barrels that are built into the hay. There is only one button visible on the face. Unfortunately, such a system is very expensive, and not everyone can afford it. Recently I began to think about the economy of the toilet flush barrel. Today this is a very pressing question for everyone. Are there systems that allow you to save water?
