This smart accessory will prevent you from drilling crookedly. Drill a vertical hole with a drill How to drill a hole evenly with a drill

Hello my friends and colleagues!
We continue to talk to you about how to make some manipulations easier when working with wood. In this article I will tell you how to correctly, accurately and evenly drill a hole in a part (not only in the facade, but also from the end). Of course, this will require some equipment, but it doesn’t matter because all this is sold in stores.
When we intend to assemble a wardrobe, bedside table or some other furniture, we need all the holes in the pieces to be as equal and accurate as possible. Because it is precisely from accuracy and evenness drilled holes assembly accuracy depends. So, let's begin.
In order to make holes from the front of the workpiece, a screwdriver or drill is enough. Today we will take a drill as a basis. You will also need a device that is mounted on a drill and allows you to drill a hole as accurately and evenly as possible.
The drill is placed in the top mount of this device and is tightly clamped with screws. A hex wrench is useful for tightening the mother screws. This device can be purchased at any construction hypermarket. You just have to run a little, because... the cost of this thing varies from 500 rubles to 2000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and the impudence of the store itself.
We twist the handle-holder and leave it to the side, because It's not very convenient to use. The guide is held perfectly by hand. I still don’t understand why the central red part is needed, although I have already replaced a couple of such devices. Yes, most importantly, never drop this thing, otherwise it will bend and become unusable. The two guides must be aligned on a plane.
In order to drill a hole from the facade, mark the drilling location as accurately as possible and install the device with a drill directly above the mark, then carefully release the drill down and aim at the center of the mark. Then carefully drill a hole. This is how we got a smooth hole from the facade.
In order to make a hole at the end, you need to loosen the bottom screws. Then lower the guides below the plane by 2-3 cm. Then tighten the screws back. Places the plane of the device on the end of the workpiece, and we rest the extended guides against both facades at the same time. Thus, we get the center of the end of the workpiece and drill a hole.
But this method of drilling a hole in the end of the workpiece is not very good, because... the workpieces have to be held between the legs and are generally difficult to secure somehow well. And the holes turn out, let’s not say, even and precise. They are not accurate because the texture of the wood or the unlaminated end of the chipboard leads the drill to the side and makes it difficult to hold it.
In this case, an additive milling machine comes to the rescue. When I discovered it for myself, the work became easier and faster. The good thing about the filler mill is that it does an excellent job of drilling holes in the end. I won't go deep into specifications and I will only say one thing: this tool makes the work very easy and drills holes very accurately. It's also very nice to collect drawers using this tool. But this is in another material.
Read also.

In the process of drilling recesses, a situation often arises in which it is not easy to obtain a perfect straight corners. How to drill a perpendicular hole of a certain depth? To do this, you should use these tips experienced craftsmen. They offer several options for getting out of this situation.

There is practically no carpentry work that does not involve the use of a drill and fasteners. During the drilling process, it is worth knowing about the important principles of this activity:

• you only need to drill a hole at a given point;
• the hole has a set size;
• at the time of drilling, the tool should be positioned at a right angle.

If all of the above requirements are clearly met, we can speak of success in the work:

• use of special drills;
• clear fastening of the material will help to secure the work and make it significantly easier;
• uniform pressure on the drill.

So, for these purposes you can use a wooden block square shape, press the drill and drill bit firmly against its base and perform the desired action.

Another method also involves using homemade device, only it looks like the letter “T” with internal corner at 90 degrees.

Drilling methods: partial holes in products in pairs (a); using an attachment plate (b); c - holes in the corner; g - in planes located at an angle; d - on a cylindrical surface; e - in hollow parts.

The drill is placed at one of these points and placed on the mark, after which drilling is performed. Taking into account the length of the drilling device, the depth of the groove is determined.

To get an accurate hole at a right angle, you can use a guide. Its strictly fixed position will allow you to avoid mistakes and deviations from the given angle. Certain varieties of such tools help to make grooves not only vertically, but also while maintaining other angles.

The nozzle has a depth-limiting device, adjustable with a stopper and a spring. The purchase of such a tool will protect against damage to workpieces and furniture.

Using a Conductor

You can drill a deep hole in a perpendicular sample using a special device - a jig. Moreover, such activities are carried out not only on a flat base, but also on the rounded parts of the workpieces, in corner points.

Components of the conductor:

1. A core that allows you to make markings for a drill.
2. Plastic stencil.
3. There are 6 guide bushings, the diameters of which correspond to 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm.

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Features of the position of the jig for drilling in different areas of workpieces

1. For rounded parts, a recess without corners is used, located on the bottom of the device.
2. At corner points and on cylinders it is worth using the V-shaped element included in the kit.
3. To fix the middle end line of the part, you need to install 2 nails in the corresponding grooves at the corner points of this device. The jig is rotated so that the fasteners connect to the edge of the element. The central part of the sleeve, intended for drilling a hole, is placed in the middle of the end part of the part.

A core is taken to mark the center point of the groove.

1. Place the named element in the middle of the hole and fix the stencil on it.
2. Place the bushing on this post with the flared part up, its diameter corresponds to 4 mm, and insert it into the template. Such a part must be centered and pressed against the material using a clamp.
3. Remove the core along with the bushing from the template, which should not move.
4. The guide sleeve is placed in a stencil of a certain cross-section.
5. Using a drill, a hole of a certain depth is made.

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Making a homemade device

Devices for drilling wood: a - use of a stop for drilling holes in round blanks; b - use of a stop for drilling holes in a vertical plane; c - template for drilling the end and plane of the workpiece: 1 - workpiece; 2 - template; 3 - holes in the template; 4 - clamp with which the template is attached.

In practice, drilling a groove at a right angle can be very difficult. Often, many craftsmen use special devices for this. However, these options are often designed for specific types of drilling equipment. Some are suitable for hand drills With seats for additional pens, and others for rechargeable pens.

Meet and universal options, however they are expensive. People who make furniture cannot do without this device. For a person who makes something on rare occasions, the cost will be quite high.

You can make such an assistant yourself, from the remains of chipboard. The initial blank of such a device looks like bars stuffed on the base of this material.

Here later you need to help the drill find the correct point and angle of inclination. A small part of the material is installed end-to-end on the main panel.

Before assembling the device, it is worth making a mark for 3 holes with different sections.

Take 3 screws, the diameters of which correspond to 5 mm, 6.3 mm and 7 mm. According to these dimensions, grooves are drilled at 3.5 mm, 4 mm and 4.5 mm.

Next, the device is assembled. Holes are drilled for the first holding component, which is immediately secured. Afterwards, a groove is made for another holder. At the time of drilling, a chipboard block is placed between these two parts to create more accurate results for the second element. The device, made independently, must be strong and should not move in all directions.

Such a device will allow you to make grooves only as a drilling device to create right angle at the end of the panel. To center the drill and drill a hole on a flat base, an additional device is made from this material. To do this, 3 holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm, 4 mm and 4.5 mm are drilled in a chipboard block. Next, marks are fixed on the prepared panels, the drill must pass through the object, and a groove is outlined.

As soon as the markings are made correctly, you need to lower the device onto the panel and place the drill, maintaining a right angle. Now you can drill.

The grooves in the end part are made in the same way. The drill passes through the assistant, the hole is marked, the structure is firmly connected to the side of the manufactured object, after which the drill can be used.

In a home craftsman's workshop, an electric drill takes pride of place. This is the first power tool invented in the world. An indispensable assistant for drilling holes continues to surprise with its application possibilities. A real lifesaver that is very easy to use. Below we will talk about how to work with this tool, how to insert or remove a drill, and what else is possible.

Main functions of the tool

The main purpose of an electric drill is to drill holes in materials. It was for this purpose that Wilhelm Fein invented it in 1895.

Inside the plastic case there are components:

• electric motor;
• starting switch;
• gearbox;
• reverse;
• retainer;
• capacitor;
• impact mechanism.

A chuck for attachments is attached to the shaft (spindle) of the drill using a thread and a fixing screw.

The fixed drill rotates both to the right and to the left. For this purpose, a reverse switch is placed on the housing. In this mode, you can only remove the drill from the hole or unscrew screws and screws. Turn on short term at lower speeds.

Drill operating modes

Many had to hammer into the wall with a bolt in order to hang a cornice or a picture. Now this is done with a drill, installing correct mode work.

1. Unstressed. Carpentry and plumbing work is carried out in this mode.
2. Shock. For working with concrete, brick or stone foundations. The rotating drill moves in the longitudinal direction and makes translational (impact) movements.

The speed of the drill differs for different tasks and is adjusted in two ways.

1. Mechanical. The desired position is set on the scale. As speed decreases, torque increases. The output power does not change, even under load. You can set the speed while the drill is running.
2. Electronic. The speed is controlled by a built-in rheostat. When you lightly press the switch key, the drill rotates at low speed. As you press harder, the speed increases until it reaches the set limit. The extreme value can be limited by a special wheel on the button. The output power with this method is reduced.

Drill fixation mechanism

It is difficult to work with a drill that is inserted incorrectly. It breaks or flies out, resulting in an uneven hole.

The drill has a jaw chuck. An adjusting ring moves along the surface of the hollow cylinder. The chuck is mounted on the drill shaft with a base with a threaded or tapered hole.

How to insert a drill into a chuck

Step 1: The chuck jaws are closed.

Step 2. Rotate the adjustment ring counterclockwise by hand. The jaws inside the chuck diverge to a distance slightly larger than the size of the drill.

Step 3. Insert the drill into the chuck to the full possible depth. The diameter of the clamped tool is allowed 2 - 13 mm.

Step 4. By rotating the adjusting ring clockwise by hand, tighten the drill.

Step 5. Insert the drill key into the hole on the chuck body so that the teeth on the key and the chuck are closed.

Step 6. With slight pressure, turn the key clockwise until it stops to securely fix the drill. There are 2 - 3 key holes, we insert them into each one in turn for uniform clamping.

Step 7. The drill is ready for use.

Before carrying out any maintenance work, remove the plug from the socket.

To avoid losing the key, craftsmen secure it with electrical tape to the drill wire.

Less commonly used is a quick-release jaw chuck, which is tightened without a key. It comes with one or two adjusting sleeves with anti-slip notches. If there is only one sleeve, hold the drill body motionless. If there are two sleeves, the part fixed to the spindle remains motionless. The moving part is turned by hand: when securing the drill clockwise, when removing it counterclockwise.

How to remove a drill from a chuck

The drill can only be removed from a disconnected tool.

While rotating, the drill and chuck become very hot. Do not touch them with bare hands immediately after switching off.

If there are no problems with the drill such as jamming or breakage, it is easy to remove it from the chuck. Operate in reverse ok.

1. The key is inserted into the holes of the cartridge one by one and turned slightly counterclockwise. The clenching of the fists weakens.
2. The adjusting ring is manually turned counterclockwise. The fists inside diverge.
3. Take out the drill.

If the drill has a locking mechanism, first press the locking button.

How to use a drill: basic rules

Beginning of work

1. Before turning on, check the plug and cord. If damaged, do not use the drill. The plug must fit tightly into the socket.
2. The side handle (if present) is put on the spindle and secured in any direction. It gives additional control over the instrument.
3. The drill is tightly fixed in the drill.
4. Set the switch to drilling/drilling mode.
5. To limit the depth, set and fix the position of the limiter.
6. The regulator sets the maximum speed.
7. There are drills with a drill diameter recognition function in the range of 3 - 13 mm. In this case, the automation takes into account the size of the drill and the material being processed. The optimal speed is determined by the autopilot. Automation cannot be used if the drill diameter is larger than the shank. Then the required speed is set manually.
8. Press the switch key. If the speed control is electronic, it is changed by smoothly pressing the trigger.

How to make a vertical, horizontal, corner hole in wood

During drilling, the workpiece or part is tightly clamped in a vice on a workbench or with clamps to the work table.

Under no circumstances should you hold the part with your hands; both hands must be free.

Holes with an electric drill in any material are drilled only at an angle of 90 0.

How to drill a vertical hole

1. Put the drill in drilling mode.
2. Select speed: the thinner the drill, the higher. The diameters of the drill and the screw shaft must be equal. Otherwise, the screw is difficult to insert and the wood will crack.
3. If the hole is through, it is good to place it under the workpiece wooden block. This will prevent the edges of the hole from splitting when the drill comes out.
4. If the hole is blind, its diameter and depth should be the same as that of a screw for screwing in. Even if you screw in self-tapping screws, light pre-drilling will make the job easier.
5. The drill enters the surface only at a right angle. Having fixed the tip of the drill in the wood, turn on the maximum speed. The higher the speed, the more accurately the drill moves and cuts the wood fibers.

Video: how to drill a perpendicular hole using homemade products

For a horizontal hole, only the workpiece is moved. If a hole at an angle is required, the desired position of the part is set in a vice. It is clamped rigidly and skewed so that the drill enters perpendicular to the surface.

If a hole is needed in a part non-standard shape(for example, cylindrical), prepare one or more gaskets. They fix the desired position of the workpiece in a vice and guide the drill (preferably with a centering tip) to the drilling point.

The drill only goes into a flat surface. Professionals use a jig device for drilling at an angle, which is attached to the part.

You can make the simplest conductor yourself.

1. In a block 50 - 60 mm thick, drill a hole at an angle of 90 0 with a depth of no more than 5 mm.
2. Without removing the drill from the hole, change its direction to the desired angle. Pre-drilling will prevent it from slipping out. Drill the block to its full depth.
3. The primitive conductor is ready. The drilled hole will serve as a guide for the drill.

If craftsmen do not want to use conductors, they come up with convenient devices for themselves.

Video: angle drilling device

How to drill holes in concrete and brick foundations

If perpendicular holes drill at construction work, the support stand will ensure the precise direction of the drill. The drilling depth limiter will tell you when to stop. If it is not included with the drill, do it yourself. A wooden cube is “cut” onto the drill that will be used to work. The free area of ​​the drill is equal to the required depth. Or they wrap electrical tape around the drill in front of such a section.

Only a rotary hammer can withstand a long load in shock mode. But for short-term work, a drill is suitable. To do this, set the shock mode and operate at high speeds. It is important to make sure that there is no hidden wiring or fittings.

When drilling such surfaces, a lot of dust and debris gets onto the drill; it needs to be cleaned in a timely manner.

At the end of the work, the cartridge is blown out with a stream of compressed air.

Drills marked “for concrete” with a carbide cutting part will quickly drill through walls or ceilings. It is optimal if they have a hex shank. The maximum drilling diameter in concrete is 16 mm. If the holes are up to 8 mm, it is easy to work with diamond drills.

Video: hole in a concrete wall under the baseboard

To drill a hole large diameter(For electrical outlet) use a ring nozzle.

When drilling brick, choose carbide drills with pobedit tip. Drill at high speeds in impact mode. It is important that no electrical wiring runs inside the masonry. The drilling site is marked with a center punch, and the tip of the drill is placed in the hole. Drill perpendicularly so as not to break the drill. The process requires gentle pressure on the drill and regular cooling of the drill in cold water.

When using a drill in impact mode, safety glasses are required. They will protect your eyes from dust, pieces of concrete and brick.

How to drill metals

The maximum permissible drill diameter when working with steel is 13 mm.

For steel, choose drills marked “for metal”. If the part is small, secure it in a vice. Use a center punch to determine the drilling location and hit it lightly. A small depression is formed, and the end of the drill is placed into it at a right angle. Drilling metal with constant pressure. If the metal is hard, drilling is slow. Soft metal is processed at medium speeds.

The drill is removed from the drilled metal without turning off the drill. It is turned off when it completely comes out of the hole.

When working with metal, wear safety glasses and tight-fitting clothing with long sleeves to avoid harm from sparks and prickly metal shavings.

For of stainless steel use drills marked “for stainless steel”. A simple drill immediately overheats during operation, and the viscous metal melts. For cooling, special compounds based on sulfur and machine oil are used. The drill is set to minimum speed (100–600). If not smooth adjustment, drill gradually: start the tool for 1–2 seconds and immediately turn it off.

Video: how to drill metal correctly

After long work At low speed, the drill is switched to maximum speed. Let it idle for 2-3 minutes to cool down.

For cast iron, use drills “for cast iron” with special sharpening. But they are difficult to find, so they choose carbide drills for metal. Cast iron is a hard material, but if handled carelessly, it splits easily. The selected place is cleared. Drilling begins with a small diameter at low speed, constantly cooling the drill with kerosene or water-based solution. Haste and increased pressure will only do harm.

Excessive pressure damages the instrument. It is better to start drilling with small drill diameters or with less pressure on the drill.

For the channel, you need metal drills from 3.5 mm to the required one in increments of 2–3 mm. The holes for the drill are filled with a center punch. Drill with light pressure, starting with a smaller diameter, gradually drilling out the hole. Drills are constantly lubricated with machine oil. Diamond drill bits are easier to use.

How to make a groove in wood

The workpiece is securely secured in a vice or clamp to avoid twisting and prevent accidents. It is strictly forbidden to hold it in your hands.

You can make a clean, smooth, even groove only with a milling cutter. In the absence of a milling machine, craftsmen attach a cutter from a router with a shank with a diameter of 8 mm into a drill. The spindle speed of the drill is not enough for serious machining. This option is only suitable for rough work.

An attachment for drilling wood will help you make gutters and channels. The six-edge serrated drill drills at high speed. The wood does not split, the surface remains smooth. Drilling takes place in three directions and is successful where simple drills fail.

For small rough grooves, a special drill bit with longitudinal cutting edges and transverse cuts is used.

Video: drill bit in action

DIY method

They are used when there are no cutters or such a drill.

Markings are made on the workpiece and a furrow is simply drilled, controlling the depth. If the drill is electronically controlled, start at low speeds. When this function is not available, special wood drills are used. They are spiral, made of high strength steel and have a point for centering. The tip of the drill is fixed in the wood and the maximum speed is turned on.

Jumpers remain between the holes, which are then removed with a chisel and cleaned with sandpaper.

For holes with a diameter of 10–32 mm, ring drills are used.

How to drill tiles

Sometimes you need a hole in a lined wall tiles. Tiles, tiles and other materials that crack should not be drill in impact mode. If the hole is small, use a drill for glass and tiles to drill ceramic tiles all the way. Then insert a concrete drill and continue working in hammer drill mode. For big hole They drill out the tiles with a diamond-coated core drill, then continue working on the concrete.

Why are sparks in a drill dangerous?

An electric drill, like any other power tool, requires systematic maintenance. Spare parts wear out during operation and the lubricant dries out.

Drill brushes require regular replacement. One of the manifestations of the problem is that at normal network voltage the electric motor does not work. A bright signal is the formation of a circular fire on the collector. The spectacle is beautiful, but dangerous. In order not to ruin the anchor of the drill, they are changed. It is advisable to buy original ones, not Chinese ones. With them the tool will last much longer.

Please note: brushes are not universal. If you don't know what size you need, take an old one with you as a sample.

The design of the drill allows you to replace the brushes yourself. There are models in which there are installation windows for brushes on the body. Replacement is simple:

1. The plugs are unscrewed from the installation windows.
2. Remove worn brushes.
3. New brushes are installed.
4. Screw in the plugs.

Other models require minimal disassembly of the drill:

1. Remove all screws on the housing. Remove the cover. It is more convenient to leave the screws in their “native” places.
2. Take out the brush holders and remove the worn brushes from them.
3. Insert new brushes, pushing the spring firmly into place.
4. Insert the brush holders into place, tighten the electrical contact of the supply wire well.
5. Close the housing cover and tighten the screws.

Video: how to replace brushes

Nozzles: saving effort and money

If we make a rating of power tools for which manufacturers produce additional attachments and accessories, the electric drill is the leader. The drilling tool turns into a multifunctional machine for repair work. She saws, cuts, mills, grinds and does much more. In terms of performance, it will not fully replace every tool, but short-term tasks home handyman decides.

To operate, the shank of the attachment is clamped in the drill chuck, like a simple drill, and the drilling mode is set.

Sanding and polishing

For grinding, use an attachment for wheels with Velcro, where abrasive wheels of different grain sizes are attached. Metal and wood are polished with cups or discs. IN hard to reach places use a fan nozzle.

A file attachment is a pin that is attached at one end to a chuck. On the other it has a solder in the form of a cone, bullet or ball. They are called rollers. The holes are bored and polished using a nozzle. For rough grinding and deburring, rasp attachments are used.

The drill becomes an electric sharpener with special attachments. The sharpening angle is adjustable, you can sharpen anything: drills, chisels, disc blades.

Properly sharpened drills provide quality drilling, are less likely to jam, and preserve the tool.

Polishing attachments: soft felt, special for cars, polishing leather ends and others. To work with rotation in any direction, select a speed of 1000 revolutions.

Scissor attachment for drill “Cricket”

With this attachment, the drill becomes a nibbler for thin sheet metal, corrugated sheets and plastic. The shank is attached to the drill chuck. It has two cutting heads that are set at the desired degree. At a rotation speed of 3000 rpm it produces a burr-free cut. You can sharply change the direction of the cut to make shaped parts.

Video: Cricket attachment in action

Attachments that make it easier

Corner. Works in hard-to-reach places as a drill and a screwdriver.

Drywall cutters. Used when installing sockets and distribution boxes.

Flexible shaft. One side is attached to the drill chuck, and the drill chuck is on the other end. Drills where a drill cannot cope without such an attachment.

How else to use a drill

Like a drill press

A well-equipped home workshop must include a stand for an electric drill. Only using this guide attachment, they make complex work. For example, a hole is drilled with extreme precision, down to tenths of a millimeter. Drill stand with attached drill turns into drilling machine.

Necessary when working with hard materials that are difficult to process. Without a strict direction, the drill does not plunge into depth, but only scratches such a surface.

A stand with a rotation of the working head or clamping device by 90 0 or 360 0 is preferable.

If the movable tripods are firmly fixed on the work table, they drill both perpendicularly and at the desired angle to the surface of the workpiece. In addition, tripods keep the drill from moving to the side. The set screws will help you accurately maintain the specified drilling depth.

The drill is clamped into the stand - a compact home drilling machine with a smooth feed is ready for work. Manufacturers allow the use of only tools marked “professional”.

Video: homemade stand for electric drill

If you attach a milling machine with an overhead spindle to a stand, you will get a home milling machine.

Like a screwdriver

A drill easily replaces a screwdriver. To work with screws, screws, or remove jammed attachments, turn on the reverse stroke. Screws and bolts are tightened at low speed.

Be careful, the drill may slip when tightening long screws.

The directions of rotation are switched using the reverse lever after stopping the drill.

Drill as a mixer

Manufacturers produce mixer attachments for drills that mix liquid and powdery materials from the bottom up. The drill will handle a volume of no more than 10 liters. It is better not to practice this regime for a long time. Not suitable for heavy concrete mixtures.

It is better to use special drill mixers. Their design has additional handles. The intended purpose is precisely mixing mixtures. It comes with attachments and works for a long time without overheating. Like a drill, it only supports drilling mode. The price of such units is much higher.

Drill: Unexpected Use

An electric drill is bought for drilling. Then they discover new wonderful application ideas.

• Cut steel cable, copper and aluminum cable with a sector nozzle.
• Remove dust by connecting the dust extraction attachment to the vacuum cleaner.
• Cut threads in blind holes without fear of breaking the tap, using minimal torque.
• Calibrate PP-R pipes using a calibrator attachment.
• Pump and pump out liquids using a pump attachment.
• Pluck the bird. The soft striking fingers of the attachment do not damage the skin.
• Cream the honey using a stainless steel attachment similar to a mixer.

Video: interesting homemade products for electric drills

Proper handling prolongs life

In order for a home electric station wagon to help for many years, a number of rules must be followed.

• Do not allow mechanical damage (impacts, falls).
• Constant overload mode is dangerous. When the light is on, the power tool is operating at its maximum capacity.
• Avoid prolonged continuous work. A non-professional instrument needs frequent rest. The temperature of the body is periodically checked: if you cannot hold your palm on it, the drill is turned off. They recommend 15 minutes of work, then a break until the temperature of the drill matches the ambient temperature. Total time work per day is 4 - 5 hours, the intervals of switching on and respite are approximately the same.
• Do not use in rain or snow, or in very dusty rooms.
• Rooms with an aggressive or explosive environment can have a dangerous effect on drill parts. The power tool generates sparks and may ignite dust or fumes.
• Work with caution in the area of ​​electrical wiring.
• The drill is turned on and off at idle speed.
• The drill is not released from your hands until the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped, so as not to lose control over it.
• After work, remove dirt and dust from ventilation holes on the motor housing.
• During long breaks in operation, the chuck and spindle are covered with a layer of preservative lubricant (technical petroleum jelly).

How do drills usually differ from each other? Power, modes, speed and dialing additional functions. They are different: miniature and large, battery-powered and powered, made of cheap plastic and with fancy anti-slip inserts. But each of them is a queen in the kingdom of home power tools.

Drilling deep holes has always been a problem. This little tool is designed to help hand and electric drills drill deep holes through the center of a piece of wood, which you know is very hard. And the deeper the hole, the more difficult it is to drill. The problem often occurs in the hole itself and drilling
holes along the axis to the end of the bar. IN in this case, this simple device will help you confidently hold the drill in one direction and avoid the wandering center. Such drills tend to follow the path of least resistance. To solve this problem, use a special device, which is shown in the photo above. The device will keep the drill from changing direction in the wood. These drill bits are good enough to drill holes in coniferous trees wood, but they are not so good in deciduous trees and require frequent sharpening of the drill. Drill bits are available for sale in stores and come in a variety of diameters and lengths, allowing you to drill holes up to 400mm deep.

How to drill deep holes correctly.

Minor drill change. Modification auger drill, start by stripping the guide screw. Then blunt the edges as shown in the photo below. This modification will provide a slight “bite” and without being too aggressive helps to drill deep holes in a straight direction.

Alignment. Straight metal rod, aligns V-block with inspection hole.

Start with the pilot hole. Another problem is drilling deep holes, setting a straight hole as a guide. A drill press is a seemingly logical tool that can be used to drill straight holes, but it has a limited drilling depth. However, the drill press still plays a big role in this operation and serves to drill the pilot hole. I start drilling the hole with a drill of a smaller diameter and gradually increase the hole to the diameter that I plan to use.

When the drill chuck rests on the V-block, remove it and drill a hole the full length of the drill bit or the depth of the hole.

Keep the drill straight. Once the pilot hole is ready, install the drill bit into the drill required diameter, secure the workpiece on the workbench with clamps. Remember that even if you have a good and tight hole, moving the drill bit from the center while drilling will not save it. To help guide the drill into the hole along the axis line, a V-block is made. To adjust the alignment, take a long metal rod and insert it into the pilot hole as shown in the photo above, align the V-block in line with the rod in the block and secure with a clamp. I start drilling holes with a drill at low speeds. Don’t be lazy and often clean the drill from sawdust clogging the auger, this gives easy rotation to the drill and helps to guide the drill correctly. Once the drill chuck rests against the V-block, remove it and continue drilling the hole. Doing these simple and not complex techniques allow you to get excellent results.

When building a house from timber, among the tools there must be a drill for drilling timber for dowels. Without it, it is simply impossible to build a strong, unshakable wall.

If at wood construction logs are used, their position relative to each other is fixed by grooves. Groove - a notch selected along the entire length of the log. With this groove, the upper log seems to cover the lower one and thereby creates immobility of the logs. But timber with smooth edges must have additional clamps.

Construction from timber has whole line benefits. The wall remains flat, which is very convenient for subsequent finishing. The thickness of timber walls will be the same everywhere, unlike log walls. A house or bathhouse is built directly on the foundation, that is, there is no such additional problem as transporting and installing a log house made elsewhere. But the issue of fastening the timber to the wall must be taken extremely seriously. The strength of the structure depends on this.

Some would-be craftsmen solve this problem simply by using nails, staples and similar gadgets. It is strictly not recommended to do this! Wood is a living material. It is subject to drying out and shrinks. A nail firmly driven into 2 beams prevents this shrinkage, and 1 beam seems to hang over the other, forming a gap. A wall with cracks is not a wall, since heat escapes, but frost, on the contrary, sneaks into the house.

To prevent this from happening, it would be correct to drill holes for dowels in the timber. A dowel is a wooden rod with chamfers. It is made from hardwood such as birch.

Dowel large sizes, replacing a nail, is often called a dowel. Both names are correct and mean the same thing. The dowel can be either homemade or industrially produced. Recently, it has become convenient to use rake handles for dowels, which are sold in every hardware store. This is due to the successful correspondence of the diameter of such a handle, 25 mm, with the diameter of the wood drill. The size of 25 mm is optimal for fastening timber 150x150 mm, which is usually used in construction.

How to fasten timber

In order to work with timber easily and without problems, optimal solution will buy a twist drill. Its design is such that it fits into the wood with the effect of a self-tapping screw, without the need to put pressure on the drill. The price of such a drill is higher than a feather drill, but the quality of the hole is worth the cost. The edges are not torn, there is no axial deviation, the diameter is strictly the same throughout the entire depth. The length of the drill must exceed the thickness of the timber by at least one and a half times. This will make it possible to drill 1 beam through, and the second halfway. You must follow a simple rule: the holes for the dowels should be 2-3 cm larger than the dowels themselves. Thanks to this, when the wood dries out, there will be a headroom and the beam will not hang.

The drill for drilling holes for dowels must be powerful enough. Experience shows that when using a 25 mm twist drill, holes in pine beams can be easily handled by a drill with a power of 800 W. True, we mean a low-speed drill. The fact is that power is proportional to the number of revolutions and torque, which means that the more one, the less the other. When drilling large holes, torque is much more important than speed. Therefore, a low-speed drill is more suitable for such work. In this regard, when choosing a drill, you should pay attention to its reduction gearbox. It is advisable to use a tool that has several speeds. At first speed the torque will be maximum.

How to drill a hole? There are several technologies. You can do them when trying on timber, after all plumb lines, levels, and dimensions have been checked. After this, the beam is removed. Batting, jute or other similar material is laid. The spaces above the holes are cleared in advance. The beam is laid in place and dowels are inserted into it. They can be knocked out, but the impact force should be small. Otherwise, the dowel will either break or it will not match the diameter of the hole made. A dowel driven too tightly will prevent the timber from shrinking when it dries.

Some use a different sequence. The timber is laid directly on the batting, leveled, and then drilled. This allows you not to remove it from the wall again. But this method also has its drawbacks. The quality of batting, linen and jute sold in stores varies. They often contain long fibers that, once under the drill, begin to collect the batting and wrap it around the drill. This entails a number of problems. The drill gets hot and loses its technological properties, so turning it out even using reverse is not so easy. The drill for drilling timber for dowels is overloaded and may fail. Not to mention the fact that in this case you will still have to remove the timber in order to restore the batting layer.

Technologies are different, often they have to be changed due to the characteristics of the materials used. But it is necessary to follow 2 rules in any case: the diameter of the dowel and the holes for it must correspond to each other, and the drill must be low-speed and powerful.