In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or simply learn a new construction skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will be useful.
What you need for installation
Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to make sure you have a number of tools:
- hammer drill or impact drill;
- a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the toilet dowel);
- tile drill (if installation is carried out on a tile or ceramic slab);
- adjustable wrench;
- set of wrenches;
- hammer;
- sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
- screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
- adapter sleeve made of rubber 123x100 (if you need to connect to a cast iron socket);
- a set of fasteners for installing a toilet (if it is not included in the kit);
- rags and a container to drain the remaining water from the old toilet.
Before installing the toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide what exactly to connect new toilet with a sewer socket. The following options are possible:
- Pleated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case it is impossible to attach the toilet close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
- Straight cuff. Firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
- Eccentric cuff. Convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are shifted.
Next, it is advisable to replace the old one flexible liner for water. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the pipe with cold water before connecting the toilet filler mechanism. 15-20 cm should be added to this length.
If necessary, you need to purchase adapters in advance for threads at the connection points made of flax or FUM tape.
In the case where it is preserved under the old toilet wooden stand, it must be removed. A nail puller or hammer drill will help with this. You can fill the resulting void cement composition, preferably quick hardening, and a spatula.
Video - Self-installation of a toilet
DIY toilet installation
- First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose and flush the toilet.
- Then you need to unfasten the drain tank. You can carefully, or you can use a hammer (if old toilet is no longer needed).
- You can quickly remove the toilet using a hammer and a hammer drill.
Carefully, so that fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet is attached to the floor and where the device meets the sewer. Then you need to remove the old bowl by pouring out the remaining water.
Removing the wood plank and leveling the floor
- After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer pipe from dirt and rust. Install a rubber adapter sleeve 123x100 into the socket, having previously covered it with sanitary sealant.
- Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
- Next you need to delete wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair composition.
- Level with the floor using a spatula.
Marking and installation of dowels
- Place the bowl of the new toilet in the planned location. Make markings through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
- Once the markings have been made, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked locations and insert dowels.
Securing the toilet cistern
- In accordance with the instructions supplied with the toilet, you need to install the fittings cistern. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
- The drain and fill valve nuts must be tightened by hand, while at the same time holding the valve itself, thereby protecting it from turning and possibly damaging the gasket.
- The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other or the walls of the tank.
- If you are unsure about the quality of the tank walls and gaskets, sanitary sealant should be used.
The drain mechanism is available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.
Installing a toilet bowl
- The connecting cuff is attached with the petal part to the transition cuff 123x100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the transition collar until it stops.
- You should turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl is in a level position and all the mounting holes are aligned.
- The bowl is secured to the floor surface with screws and plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, you need to use shims made from pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.
Connection between bowl and drain tank
Before installing the drain tank on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.
After securing the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After this, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then secure the flexible liner.
Checking the functioning of the system
At the end of all work, you need to carry out a check - fill the tank with water and do a test drain. The amount of water drained can be adjusted; how to do this is written in the instructions.
Inspect all elements for any leaks. If they occur, check the tension strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat it with sealant, then tighten it properly.
If the reason is a faulty part, purchase a new part and replace it.
Final stage
Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.
Doing such work with your own hands is not particularly difficult if you adhere to the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!
Completion involves: 1. Selecting and purchasing a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Preparing the surface for fastening; 4. Installation of a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of the above points are interconnected, they can be said to be inseparable.
I will analyze each separately in detail. You must read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result turns out to be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude towards completing the task.
So, first things first.
Choosing and purchasing a toilet
Toilets are divided:
By purpose
- children's (small size, decorated) different colors, application is common in preschool institutions)
- for people with disabilities(added handrails, armrests, have a wide bowl, adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).
By size
- height
- width
- length
By installation
- hanging
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.
By release
- oblique (at an angle)
— horizontal (into the wall)
— vertical (to the floor)
By design
- retro
- modern
- hi-tech
According to case material
- San faience
- san porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone
To install the tank
- mounted
- on the toilet
- hidden
The tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.
And finally by color
Here, as they say, “it depends on the taste and color...” The color scheme presented on the market today exceeds all expectations; if you wish, you can even find burgundy grey.
I will not dwell on all the parameters; we will consider the most important in my opinion for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl release, and the dual tank flush mode.
Toilet outlet direction
Look at how your sewer pipe intended for the toilet is located; it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model whose release is most coaxial with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free space of the bathroom.
In the photo, visually what I’m talking about: 
Agree that in in this case A toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable; it would be closer to the wall by two hundred to three hundred millimeters, at least. I have encountered such situations more than once, and not even twice; during my career I installed a “car and a small cart” toilets. You come to order, and there the toilet has already been purchased, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is completely impossible to turn it into the position you need. The customer shrugs, saying, “I didn’t even think about it.” What to do in this case? He really shouldn’t run to change. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - usable space.
But if you are reading the article, you should not make such a mistake.
Attention
In the store, when purchasing, unpack the box and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities of both the tank and the toilet.
Inspect the toilet outlet, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller whether the kit includes: a seat, mounting to the floor (wall). If the configuration does not include a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.
If a defect is visually detected, refuse the purchase; believe me, it will be very disappointing to notice puddles gathering on the floor after installing the device. Consider all the work to be a waste.
Here, buy a flexible connection (hose) to connect to the water pipe. If you do not have a tap that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend purchasing and installing one.
Toilet cistern
Basically, cisterns come complete with a toilet, I think you can decide for yourself which option is most suitable for you - mounted, mounted on the toilet, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the drainage of water. I don’t see any point in explaining when which displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The efficiency of water consumption is obvious.
Removing an old toilet
The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it’s a burden to do without it for a long time, so this work It is advisable to start in the morning, in order to have time if you need to purchase any part; stores are open until a maximum of nineteen hours.
First thing— make sure the water supply is turned off, unscrew the liner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On toilets, you don’t have to remove the compact, but we’ll send it to the trash heap as is. We inspect the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the outlet neck of the toilet is usually embedded with concrete, make sure that there are no cracks; if they are present, we dismantle them with caution.
We unscrew the attachment of the toilet to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more common) and try to loosen it. It’s not possible to loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of a hammer in close proximity to the socket, the blows are not strong, but there’s no point in being liberal here.
We split it, removed the pot, and took out the whole thing. To avoid injury from fragments of earthenware, sweep the bathroom.
Second step— caulking of the cast-iron socket, that is, we remove from it the remains of the neck and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Wearing safety glasses, we get rid of foreign materials using simple manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly you clean inner surface socket, the less likely there is a leak in this place during operation of the newly installed toilet.
We strive for this result:
But what if such a “surprise” awaits us - an additional rise? And you need to remove it, well, it’s a “bleed from the nose,” but we are pursuing the goal of installing the toilet professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.
I’ll say right away, get ready to sweat and be nervous. But... the eyes are afraid, but the hands do.
Attention
Under no circumstances should we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it can easily burst in any other place, but not where we would like it to. Violating this rule can lead to costly and time-consuming problems.
To help, we take a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “drill-drill” mode we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the socket of the tee and the pipe - the stand-in.
Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow for free drilling, in this case we cut it off with a grinder and position it in close proximity to the socket, but remember: by cutting it off you lose the opportunity to loosen it, so to speak, therefore we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill it and burn it out.
Burning is appropriate if the cavity was caulked or filled with sulfur; if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.
Before starting burning, we ensure that the room is sufficiently ventilated and that there are no flammable products or materials nearby. The video will clearly show how this is done:
If it doesn’t help, then there is only one option left to get rid of this damn stick: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder) or electric welding.
The technology is as follows: we cut off the stand at the bell itself, visually find the thin place of the “remainder” and aim specifically at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. Two cuts located close to each other in the very thin spot you try to do it along the entire length of the “remainder”, that is, there, deep down. You can cut out a fragment like a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then, by tapping with a hammer, tear off the remaining piece from its “home” place. If you continue to have difficulties with removal, you can also make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the caulking is over.
Guys, if anyone has encountered such difficulties, but does not have the skills to use an angle grinder, then here is a link to a photo gallery, found on the Internet, everything step by step:
Disassembling cast iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And what awaits us next step.
Preparing the surface for fastening
The toilet was installed on a hard surface - great, but we will look at the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor; in the old days, it was on it that the toilet was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it is rotten, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a hammer drill, in general, you will sort out this issue. Remove the taffeta and clean the released cavity. Place the involved instrument aside.
We mix a solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part cement to four parts sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part cement to three parts sand, the goal is faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution evenly with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait for it to set, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed practically every hour.
Each apartment has a stove, be it electric or gas, take the baking sheet out of the oven and place it on top of the cemented area.
Have a broom handy? We sweep away the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next stage.
Toilet installation
Our goal is to install the device as close to the sewer as possible, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This doesn’t always work out, just below I’ll post pictures of fittings that you can “play with.” For now, let's look at the connection directly. 
We will connect it with the pipe shown in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or just water, put it on the outlet neck, put a mark on the outlet to what depth the pipe has sat and remove it.
We place the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using our imagination, draw the trajectory of the coaxiality of the toilet outlet and the inlet sewer. By moving the device further or moving it closer, we achieve the best compatibility - this is especially true when the bell is at an angle. Have you achieved it? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without resting against the wall. 
We take a tape measure and place the beginning deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was placed from the fitting of the pipe on the neck there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, chamfering the place where the cut was made. All, connecting piece We're ready.
Now we need a transition cuff marked 110*123, coat it on the outside, and coat the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer and hammer the cuff inside the socket.
There is another point: before applying the cuff, place the cuff in place and make sure that it will fit; it may be necessary to cut out a small fragment from it; the full size will not fit. If this is the case, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the socket.
Next: coat the cuff driven into the tee from the inside with sealant, press the pipe until it stops. We coat the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All the pot is in place.
He promised a picture of the parts used for misalignment, this is what they look like:
If it’s impossible to do without this, then head to a specialized store that sells plumbing fixtures. There are also corrugated pipes for toilets on sale, there are reinforced and non-reinforced, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not an ideal connection option.
At the beginning of the article I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it to the exit water pipe for the tank, if not, now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints; if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it by at this stage. We achieve tightness.
Let's move on to the next step.
Complete set and installation of the tank
The new toilet comes with instructions, study it and assemble the tank in accordance with it; if all the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure it is tight and tighten it if necessary. Don’t be too zealous; after all, you’re dealing with plastic.
I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of different manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drainage device (some have dual-mode and are adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, assemble according to the instructions. I’ll just tell you one thing: at the junction of the tank with the toilet there is a gasket, so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially we don’t smear it. We put the tank on and tighten it to the toilet with the mounting bolts provided for this purpose, tighten it alternately, with uniform force.
Here is a video in which the guy explains the setup in detail various fittings tank:
Crimping
Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible line, tightening the hose fitting on the tank inlet device and hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent the fittings from touching both each other and the walls of the tank.
Open the tap and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and float are adjusted, using simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float shuts off the water until it reaches the overflow limit.
By pressing the release button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the connections:
— flexible connection with an inlet device
— intake valve with tank body
- cistern with toilet through gasket
- bolts securing the tank to the toilet using conical gaskets
— outlet (neck) of the toilet with a pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with cuff
- cuffs with sewer tee socket
- toilet and baking tray
If you conscientiously follow the steps described above, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If the presence of leaks and puddles has been visually determined, it is natural to eliminate them.
Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:
1. I, and many plumbing gurus, advise not to apply sealant initially rubber gasket located between the cistern and the toilet. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of getting everything dirty or “hand-to-hand” - nonsense. The explanation is simple: when coated, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its proper place.
So, if a leak is detected from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface where the gasket adheres to the toilet and the gasket itself. Coat one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put it in place, lightly press down along the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to “set” - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and carefully place the tank in its place and tighten it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.
2. A thin stream of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Having looked inside the tank, we make sure that the edge of the water does not reach the upper boundary of the overflow tube; if this is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
— the cone gasket located under the pressure nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
— the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the seat gasket contact areas are rough; coating the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- crack in the seat body;
— uneven fit of the “pear” to the plane of the saddle;
3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.
Well, let’s not talk about the sad things, they pressured us, everything is fine with us. The only task left is to secure our toilet to the floor.
You will have to do this after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before this, of course, we use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
Turn off the water, lower the tank, slightly lift the toilet, and pull out the baking sheet. We position the toilet, if it has been accidentally moved, mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We move the toilet to the side, drill holes with a hammer drill, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and screw them on. We attract without using much effort.
In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is an excellent piece of linoleum.
To avoid unsanitary conditions - accumulation of small particles of debris, coat the area where the toilet bowl meets the floor along the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.
Tools used during installation:
So, theoretically, we have completed the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
— hammer drill with 5-6 mm drill
— for those who do not have the skills to use, we replace the grinder with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape
The following articles may be useful for successfully completing the work described:
Well, that’s all, dear reader, do you still want to install the toilet yourself? I told you how installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with this, maybe it’s easier to pay a plumber a third of the cost of the pot, and calmly drink beer in front of the TV??
And then I see tons of articles on the Internet, like, install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should mind their own business and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.
If you have any questions or have something to add to the article, you are welcome to add them to the comments section.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles; the form will open when you scroll to the bottom of the page, I assure you there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that’s all for me today, good luck with the installation, best regards
If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. Moreover, it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new one.” earthenware friend» or before the start finishing in the toilet room.
The fact is that modern toilets are so different that they have very different types of fastening, flushing, sewerage, etc. So, ideally, you should start planning which toilet you will install with your own hands already at the toilet design stage.
What to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it without a global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, step by step guide and a few tips from the experts will help you save money and install the toilet yourself without any problems.
It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet that will be installed there.
To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:
- Is it necessary to dismantle a toilet that has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and installation of sewer lines and floor screed);
- what are the dimensions new plumbing– will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
- what type of mounting does your future toilet have?
- what is the method of flushing the toilet;
- at what height do you want to install the plumbing?
If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet.
Let us remind you that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.
Classification according to bowl shape:
- funnel-shaped;
- disc-shaped;
- visor.
Toilet bowls have an outlet flush:
- horizontal oblique;
- vertically designed.
The flush cistern can be combined with the toilet bowl or independent (wall-mounted).
Toilet bowls are attached to the floor: for 2 and 4 attachment points, for corners.
Down with the old toilet!
Surely your toilet that needs to be dismantled is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. You can remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.
- Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.
- Unscrew the thin hose that goes to the tank.
- Unscrew the tank fastenings. If they are rusty or “sticky”, you can water them, leaving for 5-7 minutes, special means which will dissolve the lime. Or you can simply rip the bolts off using a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to yield, you can spray the mount with “WD”, kerosene compound, etc., in advance.
- Next to the cistern bolts, you need to unscrew the toilet mountings. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To make the process easier, use the same techniques as when working with the tank mounts.
- Next you need to unhook the toilet flush from sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably coated with cement for strength. You need to beat it off with a hammer and a screwdriver. First you need to crumble the coating across the seam, and then you can mechanically destroy the cement. The drain should swing for now, but remain in place.
- We tilt the toilet several times in different directions, thus draining the water remaining in the knee.
- Ready. You can unhook the old toilet and proudly carry it to the trash, not forgetting to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plug made of plastic, fabric or wood.
If there are no plans for the old toilet, and you are seeing it off on its last journey, then after rocking it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to take it out. You will have to do the same if the fastenings of old plumbing fixtures are cemented.
After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron creates many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also plastic pipes They greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet and routing sewer drains (by the way, you can also read about installing plastic pipes with your own hands on our website).
Self-installation of plumbing “step by step”
For normal operation, the toilet needs a flat, tiled or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.
- First, we connect the toilet flush with a corrugated pipe to the outlet of the sewer riser pipe. You can also use a rigid pipe. The best option– if the toilet flush enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.
Toilet installation - cuff
- To introduce water, you need a flexible, fairly long hose that connects the tap that supplies liquid from the water supply to the tank of your plumbing. Pay attention to both inlet diameters to select a hose with two suitable fasteners. Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4” thread onto a pipe with a diameter of 1/8”.
We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe
- If the drain is securely connected, you can begin securing the plumbing.
We fix it to the floor: 3 types of fasteners
You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, just using resin. However, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue sticks better. When using epoxy, it is important to allow the newly installed plumbing fixtures to dry thoroughly and adhere to the floor surface.
Mounting the toilet to the wall
Wall-hung toilets are being used more and more often. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame that is attached to the load-bearing wall. In this case, the toilet tank and pipes are located behind a false plasterboard wall. If the wall-hung plumbing fixture has an open tank, then you can fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be held in place by the same anchors embedded in the wall or supporting frame.
After fixing the toilet bowl to the wall or floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fastened, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is connected to it.
All that remains is to check if the toilet works and if there are any leaks. Turn on the cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. We wash it off and see if there is any leakage from the drain.
The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you can probably handle it yourself.
- Before purchasing plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the sewer riser supply, you need to choose the same type as in the used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to properly connect a toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
- Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet until the final stage of the renovation: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
- Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that unsightly drips and sticking of bolts are excluded.
By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be mounted traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With a solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Children's | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Set for work
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
In the case of installing a toilet on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
Removing the old toilet
First step . Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer.
In older buildings, drains are usually secured using cement coating. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
Getting ready for installation
The base for installing the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and does not have differences in level, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- If the floor is tiled and is not level, we install the toilet using choppers. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, the choppers are driven into them at a level, and then the toilet is attached to the choppers using screws;
- if it is planned to replace the tiles, dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed if the old one has differences in level;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
Installation procedure for a regular toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet
Prices for components for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:
If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:
Helpful advice! If the connection of the toilet bowl to the drain pipe is made using corrugation, in most cases sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms are usually sold already in assembled form. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (assembly procedure for different models may vary slightly).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.
Modern version installations. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
We install a wall-mounted toilet on the installation
Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is installation of the frame
We install a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- Place the drain button at approximately a meter distance from the floor;
- between the fastening points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- wall-mounted toilet hang at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between the cistern and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost everything modern models tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it!
It is best to use plastic pipes for connection. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. We clarify these points separately and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
For this we use moisture resistant drywall thickness from 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
- screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet (included in the kit);
- We close the drain holes with plugs (also included in the kit) so that they do not become clogged with dust and debris;
- We make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Helpful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be done in reverse order, as you prefer. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be covered with a layer of silicone sealant(you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated location. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure the plumbing product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installation wall model toilet.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article - and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Good luck!
Video - DIY toilet installation
If you have started a major renovation of your bathroom, or the plumbing has broken down, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.
Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or contact private craftsmen who will provide professional installation. But installing a toilet yourself will not only save you money, but will also allow you to understand the whole process, which means choosing the most suitable installation option.
In this article, we'll walk you through everything you need to renovate your toilet to help you do the job yourself.
The first thing you need to decide is which toilet to choose.
Replacing a complete toilet is part of a comprehensive package, so it includes:
- selection of a new toilet, taking into account the mounting and drainage methods;
- dismantling the old toilet;
- renovation of the toilet room, including replacement of pipes, screeds, cladding and other things;
- installation and connection of a new toilet.
You should buy a new toilet in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.
Floor-standing toilets are divided into several types according to their design. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.
- The shape of the outlet drain can be horizontal, vertical or oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees.
- The toilet bowl can be visor-shaped, plate-shaped or funnel-shaped.
- The models also differ in the type of cistern: it can be combined with the base of the toilet or installed on the wall, and at different heights.
- The fixings of the toilet to the floor vary. This may be an option with two or four fastening points, or a design in which the toilet is installed on special corners attached to the floor.
Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of drain. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection to a toilet with a vertical and direct outlet.
The method of connecting the tank will determine the types of further facing works in the toilet room. For example, if you choose to mount it to a wall, you will need a prepared place and anchors for installation.
- First of all, the water supply inside the drain tank is shut off, the water is drained from it and the underwater hose is unscrewed. After this, the fastenings of the tank are unscrewed. If they are rusty or covered with lime deposits, you need to hold the bolt head with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Use kerosene or aerosol lubricant - these products significantly soften rust and lime deposits.
- After the tank is removed, unscrew the fastenings that hold the toilet - dowels or nuts screwed onto the anchors.
- Now you need to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If your house is still an old building, then most likely the drain will be fixed. In this case, you will need a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel across the caulk and carefully prick the cement in two places. Rock the toilet with force so that the drain rotates and becomes loose. Tilt the toilet without disconnecting it to drain the remaining water.
- After dismantling the toilet is completed, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden plug or fabric stopper.
Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because you are unlikely to reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement coating is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer to make the work easier, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod there as a lever to make it easier to loosen the drain.
Please note: if you have installed drain pipes made of cast iron, it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. Exploitation PVC pipes much simpler, both for the initial wiring and when connecting all drain points.
DIY toilet installation process
After you have dismantled the old toilet or completed all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and begin installing the toilet installation.
- Attach a rigid pipe to the toilet flush or corrugated pipe, for connection with the sewerage outlet pipe. The optimal option would be one in which the toilet flush goes directly into the pipe outlet. Use a rubber seal with a border. Do not seal the transition of the drain into the sewer inlet with cement.
- Prepare water input. Good for this flexible hose, screwed onto the inlet of the tank and water supply tap. Please pay Special attention to the diameter of the hose fasteners at both ends.
- After the connection is made, you can fix the toilet to the wall or floor. Below we will look at this process in more detail.
- Assemble the toilet. Place the tank on the pre-fixed base. If your tank is suspended, secure it to the wall and run a pipe. Now you can check whether the tank settings are correct and the toilet is operational. Turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled. While the water is filling, you can adjust its level. You can learn more about this from the instructions for the tank.
- The last stage is attaching the toilet seat. There are holes on the top of the toilet bowl for mounting it, and the necessary parts are supplied in the kit.
Now we will look in more detail at the methods of attaching the toilet, as well as the features of each of them.
How to install a toilet correctly, taking into account every little detail
There are usually three options for attaching the toilet to the floor:
- installation using anchors embedded in the screed or dowels;
- fixing the toilet with screws to a wooden base previously mounted in the screed;
- installation on epoxy resin.
If you decide to change the toilet due to overhaul, then suitable option will anchorage or prepared wooden base. In this case, the anchors for attaching the toilet are placed on the floor when forming the screed. They should be installed so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The excess can then be cut off.
Select taffeta (wooden board) to match the size of the toilet base. Drive nails in a checkerboard pattern over its entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and install it where the toilet will be located. Fill the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.
There are also certain rules for attaching a toilet to a tiled surface. Be sure to wear rubber gaskets under the nuts and on the dowels: they will prevent the toilet from cracking when tightened and will prevent rusty streaks on the ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts; they can be easily unscrewed even after their service life has expired.
Advice: when installing the toilet on, to prevent damage to it appearance, use epoxy resin or dowels.
Under the dowels you will need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put a rubber gasket on the screw. It would be best to place the toilet on a sealant pad and then press it down with screws.
What other options are there for installing a toilet?
When installing a toilet, you can completely do without such parts as anchors, dowels and screws. will come to your aid epoxy resin. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet and the floor surface according to all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on a wall, since it represents half the weight of the complete structure.
- First, run sandpaper or an abrasive stone over the surface of the floor so that the epoxy resin will set and adhere well.
- Apply adhesive to the floor and base of the toilet in an even layer of a few millimeters. Install the structure, level it and wait for the resin to dry completely.
Recently, wall-hung toilets have become popular. They are installed on the wall, without any contact with the floor. For installation you will need to do metal frame and attach it to the load-bearing wall, and directly fix the toilet on it if you plan to hide the pipes and tank behind a plasterboard wall.
You can also attach wall hung toilet with tank open type straight to the wall, but in this case you will need to move the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The structure is secured by using anchors built into the frame or wall.
Video about installing toilets yourself
Having become familiar with the process self-installation toilet, you can easily determine how much money you were able to save without involving a plumber or a private craftsman. We are always happy to help you in any endeavor. In the comments you can leave your questions, comments and examples from your own experience. Comfort to your home!
