The machine itself consists of aluminum profiles and 3D parts that I created and printed myself. I chose 3D parts because I don’t have a variety of tools and equipment that would allow me to create accurate and high-quality elements crafts. Therefore, my 3D printer and simple hand tools for final assembly.
Step 1: Materials
- support for guides ∅ 2cm – 8 pcs.
- guides ∅ 2cm x 30cm – 2 pcs.
- guides ∅ 2cm x 60cm – 2 pcs.
- worm guide 30cm – 1 piece
- worm guide 60cm – 1 piece
- Z axis for CNC
- caliper with internal thread
- smooth bushing
- bracket for router
- stepper motors
- adapter coupling for the motor shaft (from 1cm to 0.6cm)
- microswitches – 6 pcs.
- crimp connectors
- contact connectors with fastening nut – 4 pcs.
- plugs for contact connectors – 4 pcs.
- cable
- aluminum profile with T-slots 60x30: for frame and top – 65cm, for table – 315cm (profile with holes in the end), vertical – 61cm (+ 4 end caps)
- aluminum profile with T-slots 120x30: sides – 61cm (+ 4 end caps)
- M6 T-bolts
- M6 bolts and nuts
- bearing 1cm x 2.2cm
Step 2: 3D details
In 3D design software, I created mock-ups of the brackets that will hold the guides, as well as a mock-up of the bracket for the stepper motor that secures it to the frame. The big advantage of 3D printing is that the parts are very accurate and there is no need to adjust them or drill holes. So, having designed the necessary details crafts in this program, I then printed them on my 3D printer.
Step 3: Worm Guide Holes
I drilled holes in the side end profiles for the worm guide; they should be slightly larger than the diameter of the guides themselves (1cm).
Step 4: Assembly
Using T-shaped and regular bolts, I assembled brain parts together.
Step 5: Limit Switches
On assembled structure secured limit switches that will turn off the movement of the router carriage at the end points.
The cable was conducted according to the “normally closed” principle, that is, when short circuit homemade will go to safe mode. To do this, I had to modify the power supply to the control unit and install an emergency shutdown button.
Step 6: Configuring Mach3 Parameters
To set the axis motion values I used this useful site and got:
Motor pitch angle - 1.8°
Gear ratio of motors and worm guide 1:1
CNC controller value is ¼ step
for Z axis: worm gear 9.53mm (2.11mm drive), stroke in mm 379.47
for X and Y axis: worm gear 9.53mm (5.08mm drive) x 381mm, stroke in mm 157.48
Step 7: Final Step
As a final modification I cut and installed work surface made of MDF, on which it is easy and quick to place/change processed elements.
Well, the very last step was connecting brain machine to the computer and launch it, although it still took a lot of time to read the instructions for Mach3 :)
Step 8: Refinement - Body
The first thing I did after all the main work was a housing for the electronics, which will protect the electronic parts from dust and other troubles.
Step 9: First tests
Testing brain machine went well, but revealed several shortcomings:
— Y-axis backlash. The Y-axis worm is installed in conventional calipers, but later I plan to install backlash-free calipers.
— when the carriage moves quickly along the Y axis, there are slight frame deviations. The reason is that the frame is not balanced, and I plan to solve it by installing an additional aluminum profile, which at the same time will strengthen the entire frame.
— false alarms of limit switches. The possible reason is the pickup from an unshielded cable. I had to make changes to the code to reconfigure their operation.
Step 10: Refinement - speed control and emergency shutdown button
The router that I installed on mine brain machine, has a fixed rotation speed of the cutter, so we had to install an additional rotation speed controller, namely an AC control module.
Even in the gap in the supply wires, I installed an emergency stop button, which, if necessary, turns off both the router and the movement of the carriage.
This is how my first CNC machine turned out! Thank you for brain attention and good luck in your creativity!
Now a little more detail about the main assembly.
So, to assemble the frame you will need the following components:
- Profile sections 2020 (two longitudinal, 5 transverse, 2 vertical parts)
- Corners for profile 16 pcs
- T-nuts M3 or M4 for groove - 6mm
- Screws for installation with T-nuts (M3 or M4, respectively, 8...10 mm, plus M3x12 for mounting motors)
- Spacer (45° angle)
- Tool (screwdriver)
Since I started talking about the profile, just in case I’ll repeat about the purchase and cutting of the profile from Soberizavod
This is structural.
I immediately bought a profile kit for 2418 cut to size.
There are two options - an uncoated profile (cheaper) and a coated profile (anodized). The difference in cost is small, I recommend coated, especially if used as guides for rollers. 
Choose desired type profile 2020, then enter “cut to size”. Otherwise, you can buy one piece (whip) per 4 meters. When calculating, keep in mind that the cost of one cut varies depending on the profile. And that 4 mm is allowed for the cut. 
Enter the sizes of the segments. I made the 2418 machine a little larger, these are seven sections of 260 mm and two vertical sections of 300 mm. The vertical one can be made smaller. If you need a longer machine, then two longitudinal sections are larger, for example, 350 mm, and transverse sections are also 260 mm (5 pieces). 
We confirm (must be added to the cutting map) 
Checking the cart 
The profile is obtained for 667 rubles together with the cutting service. 
Delivery is carried out by TK, you can calculate the cost using a calculator, since you know the profile dimensions, the weight is very well calculated in the cutting chart. For the calculation, you need the option “cargo pickup from the supplier.” Delivery via Business lines will cost less, about 1000 rubles.
You can pick it up in Moscow. 
In one place there is an office, a warehouse and a workshop where profiles are cut to size. There is a showcase with samples, you can select a profile on the spot.
So, let's start assembling the frame of the 2418 table saw.
Here is the already cut profile.
In this design, I increased the Z axis (a little more by a couple of cm than the others) in order to use the machine as a CNC drill.
In the original, the Z axis is the shortest. You already decide this according to your goals. To lengthen working field, you need to buy two sections of the profile (longitudinal pair) larger by the required length (for example, +10 cm), the guides are lengthened accordingly (+10 cm for a pair of 8mm shafts) and the screw (+10 cm for a T8 screw). In terms of money, the stated +10 cm comes out very cheap: the cost of a 10+10 cm profile is about 40 rubles, the guides and screw will cost plus $6 (check).
Here are the corners prepared for assembly 
This is how the T-nuts should be installed into the slot. You can not thread it from the end, but install it directly into the groove of the profile sideways, but then control the rotation and installation of the nut, since this does not always happen, some skill is required. 
The profile cut is clean, there are no burrs 
The profile is twenty, that is, from the 2020 series, with corresponding dimensions of 20 mm x 20 mm, a groove of 6 mm. 
So, first we assemble the U-shaped part of the frame, attach two longitudinal parts of the profile and one outer cross member. Great value There is no question on which side to assemble, but keep in mind that there is a central crossbar that is moved closer to the back. It is part of the vertical plane, and the size of the offset depends on the offset of the Z axis and the spindle. Place it so that the spindle rotation axis is in the center of the machine (Y axis).
Next we assemble the middle cross member. It is more convenient to first install both corners on a section of the profile and fix them, and then install them to the frame.
We apply a section of the profile, measure the same distance with a ruler, and tighten the screws. The screws must be tightened slowly, allowing time for the T-nut to turn and take its position in the groove. If it doesn't work the first time, loosen the nut again and repeat. 
We install the last part of the horizontal frame. It's easier to access with a long screwdriver. Don’t be lazy and check the right angles of the resulting structure with a square and the diagonals with a ruler. 
Since the corners of the structure are directed towards each other, it does not matter in what order they are assembled. I did the same as in the basic CNC2418 design. But intuition suggests that it makes sense to increase the distance between the profiles, especially with a higher portal height. Okay, that can be done later. 
Next we begin to assemble the vertical portal mount 
We install the assembled portal on the horizontal part, fasten it with 6 corners (installed in three directions from the vertical profile). 
We establish and maintain the perpendicularity of the segments (along the square). Then I tightened all the screws one by one. 
In the original, a special extrusion angle at 45° is used to strengthen the vertical. I couldn’t find a similar one on sale, so I replaced it with a 3D printed one. The link to the model is at the end of the topic.
Update: It turned out that the original was 3D printed too.
If anything, you can replace it with perforated fasteners from stores, or furniture corners. This will not affect the quality in any way. 
At first glance, the structure turned out to be solid, not shaky. It can be seen that the plate with the engine is shorter than the KP08+SK8 caliper set. I'll spread it wider. 
In fact, this frame is a copy of a similar design of the CNC2418 machine, except that I didn’t directly copy the dimensions, I made it a little larger in order to have less scraps from guides and screws.
The frame assembly is complete, now you can start installing the engines. I use 3D printed flanges to mount the motors. It is advisable to make the upper ones assembled with guide holders, the lower ones - without holders, since the Y axis should be wider. It is advisable to install the Y axis on supports SK8 and KP08, as in the original machine. The calipers themselves can be printed on a printer or purchased (links are at the end of the topic, and were also in the first post).
For one of the axes (the X and Y axes are the same length), I took a “sighting” one. I didn’t yet know my “wants” for the size of the machine. As a result, the scraps from the screw will go to the Z axis; you will only need to purchase a T8 brass nut. 
It was packed in a cardboard box, inside each part was in a bag separately. 
The kit looks like this: a motor with a short wire, a T8 lead screw, two KP08 calipers and two 5x8 couplings. 
There is a similar one, and also without an engine (with calipers and a nut).
If you take without a large margin, then the 400 mm option will work well for the “enlarged version” of the machine
Additional information - photos of the set separately
Engine marking RB Step Motor 42SHDC3025-24B-500, seat Nema17 
A short wire for connection is included. Conveniently, you can simply increase the length without touching the connectors. 
T8 screw, nut 
KR08 calipers. 
Convenient to attach to the profile. If you use a wide flange for installation, then it is better to use the KFL08 version of the caliper; it allows you to attach the screw not to the profile, but to the flange. 
5x8 coupling is a split coupling for connecting the motor shaft to the propeller. 
This is how the engine is originally mounted on the X-axis. On a small aluminum plate.
I did the same thing, only with a printing plate. At the same time it will be a support for the guides.
I have already cut off the extra length of the screw for the Z axis (the Z axis is still in process, the information will be separately, most likely also 3D printed).
Most likely, you will need to lengthen the motor wires in order to carefully route it along the profile to the upper part to the electronics board (most likely there will be a CNC Shield). And it wouldn’t hurt to install limit switches for extreme positions.
The basic information on the assembly is already there, you can start estimating costs))))
Costing
Now, as requested in the comments in the first part, I propose to discuss costing. Naturally, I spent less than indicated, since I had the engines and most of the components in stock. Strongly cheaper it will be if you use homemade printed corners for the profile, calipers, flanges, and so on. For the operation of a machine for drilling printed circuit boards and milling soft materials this is unlikely to have any effect. More a good option- use of perforated plates from construction/hardware stores. Suitable for strengthening corners, including vertical ones, and for installing an engine, provided that the central part is drilled for the shaft. Instead of perforated fasteners, you can use homemade ones made from aluminum sheet or plywood.
Definitely a must buy profile 2020, otherwise it will be a completely different type of machine. You can do the same from an aluminum corner or rectangular pipe, but only for the love of art))) There are more optimal designs in terms of rigidity for assembly from a corner/pipe.
Definitely needed for the profile T-nuts. You can buy T-bolts, but T-nuts are more universal (since any screw length can be used).
But the rest can be changed at your discretion, you can even replace the chassis T8 screw use hairpin made of stainless steel. Unless the number of steps per mm will have to be recalculated in the firmware.
Engines can be removed from old devices/office equipment and planned seats already for a specific type.
Electronics almost any (Anduino UNO/Anduino Nano, CNCShield, Mega R3+Ramps, A4988/DRV8825 drivers, you can use an adapter board for Mach3 and TB6600 drivers. But the choice of electronics is limited by the software used.
For drilling, you can use any engine DC, which allows you to set collet and has decent revs. IN basic version there is a high-speed 775 motor. For milling, you can use 300 watt non-reactive spindles with an ER11 collet, but this greatly increases the cost of the machine as a whole.
Approximate cost calculation:
profile 2020 (2.5 meters) = 667r
profile 2080 (0.5 meters) on desktop = 485 RUR
Two 300 mm 2х$25
. A lot of 20 pieces comes out to $5.5 with delivery
approximately 4r/piece if you take a large package. You need at least 50 pieces (mounting engines, calipers). I don’t count the screws for them, usually a few kopecks per piece depending on the quality. Total about 400...500 rub.
Engines 3 pcs $8.25 each
Electronics $2
$3.5
A4988 three pieces for $1
The machine comes out to about $111. If you add a spindle:
$9
$7.78,
That total cost about $128
I do not evaluate 3D printed parts. Can be replaced with perforated plates/corners from crepe market and similar stores. I also don’t estimate the wires, electrical tape, or time spent.
Let me remind you that not all CNC2418 configuration options have such good 775 engines and, especially, an ER11 collet.
Options cheaper.
Article on the topic self-built small machine for woodworking (engraving, milling, drilling) with CNC, also suitable for other soft materials, such as plastic. Well suited for milling printed circuit boards and similar work. This and the following articles describe general components and techniques for assembling not only CNC machines, but also 3D printers, engravers and similar equipment. There is a lot of information, a lot of links and photographs, the project is open, advice and criticism (on the case) are welcome.
Here are some photos appearance assembled CNC2418 machine from sellers' lots from Ali
Examples of lots from Ali with a laser and ER11 collet (DZT store, Jack's store, IRouter store).
So, I’ll tell you about a fairly popular Chinese machine under the simple name CNC2418, which means work area 24 mm by 18 mm. As a spindle, it has a simple (collector) high-speed DC motor type 775. It is controlled via GRBL compatible programs, but first things first.
As a rule, it sells for around $250 (from $170 to $300) in different configurations. There is a version with different spindles ( various variations 775 engine), with different collets (from simple for drills to ER11), can be equipped with a laser module. Usually sellers include consumables, cutter bits, etc.
Characteristics of the machine 2418:
- Working field - 240 mm x 180 mm x45 mm
- Frame size (bed) - 260 mm x 180 mm (aluminum profile)
- Overall size - 330x340x240
- Stepper motors: 3pcs Nema17 1.3A 0.25Nm
- Spindle: Diameter 45mm, model 775, 24V: 7000 r/min
- The maximum diameter of the cutter shank depends on the installed collet
- Power: 24V 5.6A
Here's a photo of the average $250 kit (including the laser engraving kit)
The lot usually has a choice of collets: a simple “drill” or an ER11 type collet. More expensive lots have both options plus cutters.
Seriously speaking, then market price such kits for assembly are greatly overpriced. I'm not ready to pay under $300 for such a set. But assembling it with your own hands is three times cheaper - please! Below is a selection of components with Chinese stores, on the basis of which you can easily assemble a similar machine or a machine with a larger/smaller working field.
For assembly you will need to buy a set of guides: rails or polished shafts; lead screws (most often T8, since GT2-6 type belts can be installed in laser engravers; their use in a milling cutter is not advisable), Nema17 motors, spindle (most often a DC motor type RS775 or more powerful) and various small things such as bearings, calipers , hardware.
The issue of electronics is separate: some use Arduino Nano/Uno+CNC Shield boards, others Mega+Ramps, there are options for more serious kits for Mach3.
Please note that the original kit contains 3D printed components.
The use of such plastic parts is clearly visible in user photographs from the Internet, and in lots from sellers
The printed kit includes an angle spacer (2 pcs), a screw holder X, a screw holder Y, bearing holders LM8UU (or rather their imitation) 4 pcs, a nut holder T8.
I will separately highlight the spindle holder assembly, and at the same time the XY carriage.
It comes complete with the engine installed.
Inside you can see pressed LM8UU bearings and somewhere a T8 nut. The shafts are drilled from the end and secured at the ends. At the same time they serve as additional support for the structure.
I’m providing links to the kit from Banguuda, because I’m tired of buying 1 lot each from different sellers from Ali and waiting for a bunch of parcels arriving in different time. The prices are comparable to Ali, in some places they are cheaper, in others it is more convenient to use points, in others you can wait for a promotion or coupon. As a result, I received one large parcel with a complete set. I also provide keywords for independent search, if you need to find something similar on Ali or Tao.
Now, in order. I received a parcel of various components for machine mechanics.
Guide shafts polished.
Linear Shaft (Rod). Still found Optical Axis(polished axis). There are 5-6-8-10-12-16-20 mm. Current diameter 8 mm. For 16-20 mm it is better to use round rails like SBR16 or SBR20, as they have support. Shafts of different diameters are used, for example, in the Ultimaker printer (6-8-10 mm). By the way, 12mm shafts can be useful for the Z axis of the ZAV 3D printer and the like.
In the photo 6 mm, 8 mm, 12 mm.
Shafts 8 mm. I took some to size (they are chamfered), and cut some myself
There is a large lot with a choice of shafts from 5 mm to 12 mm and lengths 300-600 mm
Individual lots are a little cheaper. I try to take the length either the same size or much larger, so that I can independently cut 2-3 pieces of the required size from one shaft.
Here is the cut with a miter saw. It is advisable to then clean and chamfer.
Shaft 8x600
Shaft 8 mm with lengths 300...500 mm
Shaft 8 mm with lengths 100… 350 mm
Comfortable if you choose the right size. And from time to time they offer promotions for different lots; if you don’t rush to assemble the machine, you can save money.
Shaft 6x400
Shaft 6x300
Shaft 6x500
Shaft 6x600
6mm shafts can be used in small laser engravers, delta printers, Z-axis desktop CNC machines. For example, a 6x300 shaft, sawn in half, went to the “head” of the Z axis of a small router.
Shafts 12 mm. I bought it for ZAV 3D.
Shaft 12x500
Will be installed in ZAV 3D housing
There are several options for mounting the guides. The simplest one is to cut threads at the ends and tighten them. You can install flanges type SHF08 or calipers SK8. In this case, the length increases by 2 cm for each guide (one flange covers 1 cm of the shaft).
I printed it myself, I won’t say it’s a big difference, but I saved about $12. Here is a link to a lot for installing normal metal flanges SHF08, not plastic ones. Another good option is to mount it not with flanges, but with calipers, directly on the 2020 profile. This is the SH08 (SF08?) caliper.
There is also a “Chinese” fastening option, when a hole is drilled in the center of the shaft and tapped internal thread M3. In this case, the installation of such guides is as easy as possible.
Flange supports for mounting shafts from SHF8 to SHF20
Flange SHF8
Caliper SK8
Another SK8 shaft support for mounting on a profile
Shaft bearings
Lot with a choice of sizes of short linear bearings LMххUU 6/8/10 mm
Key words: Bearing LMxxLUU (xx mm, long), LMxxUU (xx mm short), in the housing, respectively: SC8LUU and SC08UU.
Extended lot with a choice of type SCSххLUU from 8 to 20 mm.
Also extended by 8 mm
Bearings in SC8UU housing
6 mm LM6LUU extended and regular LM6UU
Here is a photo of a tabletop machine for an electronics engineer with 8 mm shafts, LM08LUU and SC08UU bearings
Here are interesting sets of axles with guides and bearings
500 mm with extended bearings
The same, plus a T8 screw with a caliper for 200mm, 300mm and 400mm
T8 lead screw ( Lead Screw T8, screw T8 Nut) is a screw with a multi-start thread. It's better to take it right away with the nut.
If you cut, you will additionally need to buy more brass nuts
At 100 mm
At 200 mm
At 250 mm
At 400 mm
Lot with a choice of T8 from 100 to 600 mm with a special nut
I usually take more, plus one nut. Cut to size, remainder still coming somewhere
Flange support KP08 for attaching a T8 screw to the Mount Bearing KP08 profile. For assembly you will also need a structural profile, 3D printed parts (holders, corners, etc., links at the end of the article), as well as electronics.
Profile components:
corners 2020 Corner Bracket.
To assemble a type 2418 machine, a minimum of 16 pieces are required. Take with reserve)))
There are options for reinforcement plates; it would also be nice to install them in the main corners and on the portal (6-8 pieces in total).
And here is the 2020 profile itself.
Since I started talking about the profile, I’ll tell you in detail about the purchase and cutting of the profile from Soberizavod.
This is a structural aluminum profile from Soberizavod. This is probably the most cheap option, since a profile from China will cost more, and there is a limitation on maximum length parcels by Chinese post (500mm).
I immediately bought a set of profiles of standard size 2020 for CNC2418, cut to size.
There are two options - an uncoated profile (cheaper) and a coated profile (anodized). The difference in cost is small, I recommend coated, especially if used as guides for rollers.
Select the desired profile type 2020, then enter “cut to size.” Otherwise, you can buy one piece (whip) per 4 meters. When calculating, keep in mind that the cost of one cut varies depending on the profile. And that 4 mm is allowed for the cut.
Enter the sizes of the segments. I made the 2418 machine a little larger, these are seven sections of 260 mm and two vertical sections of 300 mm. The vertical one can be made smaller. If you need a longer machine, then two longitudinal sections are larger, for example, 350 mm, and transverse sections are also 260 mm (5 pieces).
The question of how to make a CNC machine can be answered briefly. Knowing that a homemade CNC milling machine, in general, is a complex device that has complex structure, the designer would like to:
- acquire drawings;
- purchase reliable components and fasteners;
- prepare a good tool;
- have a lathe on hand and drilling machines CNC machined to produce quickly.
It wouldn’t hurt to watch the video – a kind of instructional guide on where to start. I’ll start with preparation, buy everything I need, figure out the drawing - here correct solution novice designer. That's why preparatory stage, preceding assembly, is very important.
Preparatory stage work
To make a homemade CNC milling machine, there are two options:
- You take a ready-made running set of parts (specially selected components), from which we assemble the equipment yourself.
- Find (make) all the components and start assembling a CNC machine with your own hands that would meet all the requirements.
It is important to decide on the purpose, size and design (how to do without a drawing homemade machine CNC), find diagrams for its manufacture, purchase or manufacture some parts that are needed for this, acquire lead screws.
If you decide to create a CNC machine with your own hands and do without ready-made sets of components and mechanisms, fasteners, you need a diagram assembled according to which the machine will work.
Usually, having found schematic diagram devices, they first model all the machine parts, prepare technical drawings, and then use them to produce components from plywood or aluminum on lathes and milling machines (sometimes it is necessary to use a drilling machine). Most often, working surfaces (also called a work table) are plywood with a thickness of 18 mm.
Assembly of some important machine components
In the machine that you started assembling with your own hands, you need to provide a number of critical components that ensure the vertical movement of the working tool. In this list:
- helical gear – rotation is transmitted using a toothed belt. It is good because the pulleys do not slip, evenly transferring forces to the shaft of the milling equipment;
- if you use a stepper motor (SM) for a mini-machine, it is advisable to take a carriage from a larger printer model - more powerful; old dot matrix printers had fairly powerful electric motors;
- for a three-coordinate device, you will need three SDs. It’s good if there are 5 control wires in each, the functionality of the mini-machine will increase. It is worth assessing the magnitude of the parameters: supply voltage, winding resistance and motor rotation angle in one step. To connect each stepper motor you need a separate controller;
- using screws, rotational movement from SD is converted to linear. For achievement high precision, many people consider it necessary to have ball screws (ball screws), but this component is not cheap. When selecting a set of nuts and mounting screws for mounting blocks, choose them with plastic inserts, this reduces friction and eliminates backlash;
- instead of a stepper motor, you can take a regular electric motor, after a little modification;
- a vertical axis that allows the tool to move in 3D, covering the entire X-ray table. It is made from aluminum plate. It is important that the dimensions of the axis are adjusted to the dimensions of the device. In the presence of muffle furnace, the axle can be cast according to the dimensions of the drawings.
Below is a drawing made in three projections: side view, rear view, and top view.
Maximum attention to the bed
The necessary rigidity of the machine is provided by the bed. A movable portal, a rail guide system, a motor, a working surface, a Z axis and a spindle are installed on it.
For example, one of the creators of a homemade CNC machine made a supporting frame from Maytec aluminum profile - two parts (section 40x80 mm) and two end plates 10 mm thick from the same material, connecting the elements aluminum corners. The structure is reinforced; inside the frame there is a frame made of smaller profiles in the shape of a square.
The frame is mounted without the use of welded connections ( welds poorly able to withstand vibration loads). It is better to use T-nuts as fastenings. The end plates provide for the installation of a bearing block for mounting the lead screw. You will need a plain bearing and a spindle bearing.
The craftsman determined that the main task of the self-made CNC machine was the production of aluminum parts. Since workpieces with a maximum thickness of 60 mm were suitable for him, he made the portal clearance 125 mm (this is the distance from the upper cross beam to the working surface).
This difficult installation process
Collect homemade CNC machines, after preparing the components, it is better to strictly according to the drawing so that they work. The assembly process using lead screws should be performed in the following sequence:
- a knowledgeable craftsman begins by attaching the first two motors to the body - behind the vertical axis of the equipment. One is responsible for horizontal movement milling head(rail guides), and the second for movement in the vertical plane;
- a movable portal moving along the X axis carries the milling spindle and support (z axis). The higher the portal is, the larger the workpiece can be processed. But at a high portal, during processing, the resistance to emerging loads decreases;
- For fastening the Z-axis motor and linear guides, front, rear, upper, middle and lower plates are used. Make a cradle for the milling spindle there;
- The drive is assembled from carefully selected nuts and studs. To fix the motor shaft and attach it to the stud, use a rubber winding of a thick electric cable. The fixation may be screws inserted into a nylon sleeve.
Then the assembly of the remaining components and assemblies of the homemade product begins.
We install the electronic filling of the machine
To make a CNC machine with your own hands and control it, you need to operate with correctly selected numerical control, high-quality printed circuit boards and electronic components (especially if they are Chinese), which will allow you to implement all the functionality on a CNC machine, processing a part with a complex configuration.
In order to avoid management problems, homemade CNC machines have the following components among the components:
- stepper motors, some stopped for example Nema;
- LPT port, through which the CNC control unit can be connected to the machine;
- drivers for controllers, they are installed on a mini-milling machine, connecting in accordance with the diagram;
- switching boards (controllers);
- 36V power supply unit with a step-down transformer that converts to 5V to power the control circuit;
- laptop or PC;
- button responsible for emergency stop.
Only after this, CNC machines are tested (in this case, the craftsman will make a test run of it, loading all the programs), and existing shortcomings are identified and eliminated.
Instead of a conclusion
As you can see, it is possible to make a CNC that is not inferior to Chinese models. Having made a set of spare parts with the right size, having high-quality bearings and enough fasteners for assembly, this task is within the power of those who are interested in software technology. You won’t have to look for an example for long.
The photo below shows some examples of numerically controlled machines, which were made by the same craftsmen, not professionals. Not a single part was made hastily, with an arbitrary size, but fitted to the block with great precision, with careful alignment of the axes, the use of high-quality lead screws and reliable bearings. The statement is true: as you assemble, so will you work.
A duralumin blank is processed using CNC. With such a machine, which was assembled by a craftsman, you can perform a lot of milling work.
Purelogic R&D company offers to purchase structural aluminum profiles on favorable terms. It is a durable and lightweight material to create engineering systems of any complexity and purpose. The machine profile is used to manufacture the bed of CNC machines. In addition, it is used for assembling personnel workstations, motion axes, coordinate tables etc.
Structural aluminum profiles are manufactured using hot extrusion technology. It is obtained by extruding the material through a special extruder die. Various aluminum alloys can be used as feedstock.
The most important advantage and main difference of a product made from a machine profile is the ability to quickly change the design, its extension, rebuilding and modernization.
This section presents:
- structural aluminum profile;
- type-setting aluminum work tables of various sections;
- aluminum corners;
- cable channels.
The guide profile can be supplemented with various components:
- vibration supports;
- end and groove plugs;
- wheel supports;
- end mounting plates.
Features of using a structural profile
Products made from high-strength aluminum alloys and having a complex cross-section, provide:
- possibility of rapid assembly and disassembly of structures. This allows you to quickly renovation work, various modernization activities, as well as moving equipment to a new location. It is possible to make changes to the created object at any stage of its readiness, which is especially important in the manufacture of special-purpose devices and various non-serial machines;
- high strength of joints without welding;
- optimal combination of low weight and strength characteristics. This is achieved due to the aluminum-based wrought alloys used and the complex cross-sectional configuration;
- minimal labor and financial costs, efficiency of execution when designing and creating structures of any complexity.
