How to build the roof of a house with your own hands in 3 stages

I won’t deceive you, building a roof with your own hands is a very troublesome task, but still real. The whole process is divided into 3 fairly extensive stages - preparation and calculation, installation of the rafter system and arrangement of the roofing pie. And then we will go through all the stages of installation step by step, plus I will talk about some of the pitfalls that await you during the construction process.

Stage No. 1: selection of design and calculation details

The structure of the roof of a private house directly depends on the type of structure, because not every building is within the capabilities of an amateur, even if this amateur is fluent with any tool.

Types of structures

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Shed roof. With the construction pitched roof As a rule, there are no difficulties. But in Russia such structures are relevant only for small outbuildings up to 6 m wide. Shed roof good home often unable to withstand snow and wind loads. And she looks very mediocre.
	Gable roof. This design can rightfully be called a queen. For people without experience, a gable roof is considered the best option. The technology here is accessible, plus the frame is quite stable, the main thing is to choose correct angle tilt gable roof, But more on that later.
	Hip sloping roof. People call this structure an attic, but in reality an attic is a living space in the attic and this concept is indirectly related to the type of roof. From a practical point of view, such a roof is perhaps the most convenient, plus the technology here is not much more complicated than that of a gable structure.
	Hip roof. The hip roof is somewhat similar to a gable roof, only at the ends it has 2 more gentle slopes. Calculation and installation here are already more complicated, and roofing material it will cost more.
	Half hip roof. This model is suitable for those owners who want an original and relatively simple attic.
	Gable roof. The gable model is a symbiosis of several gable structures. In appearance everything seems simple, but installation of this design is very problematic.
	Tent structure. The hip roof is a hipped prism. It only makes sense to install it on square houses with a large area and without an attic, since it will be miniature there.

There are also conical, spire-shaped, multi-level, vaulted and other complex structures, but it is impossible for a craftsman without experience to assemble such structures with his own hands.

How to calculate a roof

Gentle slopes of 20–35º, on the one hand, are easier to equip, but on the other, the roof trusses need to be seriously strengthened, since the snow does not fall off such slopes on its own.

To avoid problems with snow, the slope angle should be about 60º, but such a steep roof has a large windage and in windy areas special fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat is required.

The topic of accurate calculations when designing a roof is worthy of a separate story; the video in this article partly shows this process, but you can take a simpler route.

In the “basement” of our website (below the article) there is a section “ construction calculators", there you will find programs with which different types roofs are calculated simply, quickly, and most importantly accurately.

Stage No. 2: installation of the truss structure

This stage also consists of 2 subsections:

arrangement of the Mauerlat;
installation of the rafter system on the Mauerlat.

We fasten the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is, figuratively speaking, a gasket between the walls of a house and the roof. The design is quite simple, it is a square wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm, which can be solid or stacked, but there are nuances in installing the Mauerlat.

For wooden house The Mauerlat as such is not needed; its function is performed by a beam or log in the outermost frame. In this case, it is not advisable to attach the floor beams to the upper frame. Most often they are placed under this harness, that is, they are mounted on one of the previous rows;
For walls made of cellular concrete (foam and aerated concrete) under the Mauerlat, you must first install a reinforced reinforced concrete belt and lay timber on it. Otherwise, the distribution of the load from the roof will be uneven and the walls will begin to crack;
IN cinder block houses It is also advisable to fill the upper reinforced belt under the Mauerlat. You can do without it only if the walls are laid out with one and a half or more cinder blocks;

In brick houses it is not necessary to pour a reinforced belt under the Mauerlat; such walls can easily withstand the pressure of the roof;

Keep in mind - under no circumstances should you place the Mauerlat on a bare wall. On top load-bearing wall A two-layer gasket made of roofing felt must be made.

If a reinforced concrete belt is poured on top, then during the construction process, vertical metal studs or simply reinforcement with a cross-section of 12 mm or more are walled up in increments of no more than 1 m, and timber will be attached to them;

To the walls where there is no reinforced belt , the timber is secured with anchors in increments of 50–70 cm.

Rafter system

Any rafter system is mounted directly on the Mauerlat, but the mount can be rigid or floating. It's easy to figure out, the floating connection is mounted only on wooden houses, it is necessary to compensate for the shrinkage of the structure.

There is another important point - there are layered and hanging rafter systems. In the layered version, in addition to the side external walls, the load is also distributed on the internal walls, and the hanging system rests only on the external walls. So, if possible, try to arrange a layered structure, it is more reliable.

The designs of rafter systems vary and it is important to understand the terminology; the diagram below shows the main elements in such systems. The only one important detail, which is not well marked there - this is a ridge beam or ridge girder, it is mounted at the top connection point of the rafter legs.

People often wonder how difficult it is to lift finished roof. Theoretically, this is not difficult, you just need to untwist the anchors holding the mauerlat, after which jacks are placed under it, and the entire structure is gradually raised. But it’s worth doing this only if you are confident in the strength of the old roof.

Stage No. 3: roofing

When installing a roof, the most important thing is to properly arrange the sheathing for the roof covering. There are 2 types of lathing:

Continuous sheathing mounted under standing seam roofing, as well as roll and soft roofing, for example, bitumen shingles. Previously, such lathing was made from planed boards 100x20 mm. Now craftsmen prefer to sheathe rafters with OSB sheets;

Sparse wooden sheathing used under sheet materials (ceramic tiles, slate, ondulin, etc.).

The arrangement technology is simple, the main thing here is to do the workpiece correctly, and the insulation can be installed later. By the way, solid sheet sheathing can be installed directly on the rafters; everything shown below applies only to the loosened options.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Rafter system. The rafter system is installed first.
	Wind protection. Roll out and staple to the rafters waterproofing film. It is popularly called wind protection. Such a film is vapor-permeable on one side, but steam should only escape in the direction from the house to the street.
	Counter rake. A counter rail made of a 50x50 mm block is placed on top of the wind protection.
	Sparse lathing. The sheathing strips are placed on counter slats. The pitch of the under-roof sheathing is selected depending on the type roofing covering, after which you can begin installing the roofing itself.

Mineral wool insulation is laid underneath the rafters. I don’t recommend saving on cotton wool; you only need to take thick cotton wool slabs. Soft mats under the roof quickly become unusable. A complete diagram of the arrangement of the roofing pie is given below.

Conclusion

Of course, each type of roof has its own arrangement nuances, but the stages I described are suitable for absolutely all structures. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

November 1, 2017

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

A gable roof or gable roof is a roof with two slopes, i.e. having 2 inclined surfaces(slopes) rectangular in shape.

Gable roof frame in effect design features ideally combines simplicity of design and maintenance with reliability and durability. These and many other parameters make the construction of a gable roof practical and rational decision for private and commercial housing construction.

In this article, we will look at how to make a rafter system for a gable roof with your own hands. For effective perception of the material, it is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions from A to Z, from selection and calculations, to installation of the Mauerlat and sheathing under the roof. Each stage is accompanied by tables, diagrams, drawings, drawings and photos.

The popularity of the house roof is due to a number of advantages:

design variability;
simplicity in calculations;
naturalness of water flow;
integrity of the structure reduces the likelihood of leaks;
efficiency;
preservation usable area attic or the possibility of arranging an attic;
high maintainability;
strength and wear resistance.

Types of gable roof

The installation of a gable roof truss system depends, first of all, on its design.

There are several options for gable roofs (types, types):

The most common roof installation option due to its simplicity and reliability. Thanks to symmetry, a uniform distribution of loads on the load-bearing walls and mauerlat is achieved. The type and thickness of the insulation does not affect the choice of material.

The cross-section of the beam makes it possible to provide a reserve of bearing capacity. There is no possibility of rafters bending. Supports and struts can be placed almost anywhere.

An obvious drawback is the impossibility of arranging a full-fledged attic floor. Due to sharp corners, “dead” zones appear that are unsuitable for use.

The arrangement of one angle of more than 45° leads to a reduction in the amount of unused area. There is an opportunity to make living rooms under the roof. At the same time, the requirements for calculations increase, because the load on the walls and foundation will be distributed unevenly.

This roof design allows you to equip full second roof floor.

Naturally, a simple gable rafter roof differs from a broken line, not only visually. The main difficulty lies in the complexity of the calculations.

Design of a gable roof truss system

Building a roof of any complexity with your own hands requires knowledge of the purpose of the basic structural elements.

The locations of the elements are shown in the photo.

Mauerlat. Designed to distribute the load from the rafter system onto the load-bearing walls of the building. To arrange the Mauerlat, a timber made of durable wood is selected. Preferably larch, pine, oak. The cross-section of the timber depends on its type - solid or glued, as well as on the expected age of the structure. The most popular sizes are 100x100, 150x150 mm.
Advice. For a metal rafter system, the Mauerlat must also be metal. For example, a channel or an I-profile.

Rafter leg. The main element of the system. To make rafter legs, a strong beam or log is used. The legs connected at the top form a truss.

The silhouette of the roof truss determines the appearance of the structure. Examples of farms in the photo.

The parameters of the rafters are important. They will be discussed below.

Puff- connects the rafter legs and gives them rigidity.

Run:

Ridge run, is mounted at the junction of one rafter to another. In the future, the roof ridge will be installed on it.

Side purlins, they provide the truss with additional rigidity. Their number and size depend on the load on the system.

Rafter stand- vertically located beam. It also takes on part of the load from the weight of the roof. In a simple gable roof it is usually located in the center. With a significant span width - in the center and on the sides. In an asymmetrical gable roof, the installation location depends on the length of the rafters. With a broken roof and arrangement of one room per attic attic- the racks are located on the sides, leaving free space for movement. If there are supposed to be two rooms, the racks are located in the center and on the sides.

The location of the rack depending on the length of the roof is shown in the figure.

Strut. Serves as a support for the stand.

Advice. Installing the brace at an angle of 45° significantly reduces the risk of deformation from wind and snow loads.

In regions with significant wind and snow loads, not only longitudinal struts are installed (located in the same plane as the rafter pair), but also diagonal ones.

Sill. Its purpose is to serve as a support for the rack and a place for attaching the strut.

Lathing. Designed for movement during construction work and fixation of roofing material. Installed perpendicular to the rafter legs.

Advice. An important purpose of the sheathing is to redistribute the load from the roofing material to the rafter system.

Having a drawing and diagram indicating the location of all the listed structural elements will help in the work.

Advice. Be sure to add information about the passage of the ventilation shaft and chimney to the gable roof rafter system diagram.

The technology of their installation is determined by the type of roof.

Selection of material for rafters

When calculating the material for a gable roof, you need to choose high-quality wood without damage or wormholes. The presence of knots for beams, mauerlat and rafters is not allowed.

For sheathing boards, there should be a minimum of knots, and they should not fall out. The wood must be durable and treated with the necessary preparations that will increase its properties.

Advice. The length of the knot should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the timber.

Calculation of the rafter system of a gable roof

Calculation of material parameters important stage, so we present the calculation algorithm step by step.

It is important to know: the entire rafter system consists of many triangles, as the most rigid element. In turn, if the slopes have different shapes, i.e. are an irregular rectangle, then you need to divide it into separate components and calculate the load and amount of materials for each. After calculations, summarize the data.

1. Calculation of the load on the rafter system

The load on the rafters can be of three types:

Constant loads. Their action will always be felt by the rafter system. Such loads include the weight of the roof, sheathing, insulation, films, additional roofing elements, finishing materials For . The weight of the roof is the sum of the weight of all its constituent elements; such a load is easier to take into account. On average the value constant load for rafters is 40-45 kg/sq.m.

Advice. To make a safety margin for the rafter system, it is better to add 10% to the calculation.

For reference: The weight of some roofing materials per 1 sq.m. presented in the table

Advice. It is desirable that the weight of roofing material per 1 sq.m. roof area did not exceed 50 kg.

Variable loads. Valid in different periods and with different strengths. Such loads include: wind load and its strength, snow load, precipitation intensity.

In essence, the roof slope is like a sail and, if you take into account the wind load, the entire roof structure can be destroyed.

The calculation is carried out according to the formula: wind load is equal to the regional indicator multiplied by the correction factor. These indicators are contained in SNiP “Loads and Impacts” and are determined not only by the region, but also by the location of the house. For example, on a private house surrounded by multi-story buildings, there is less load. Standing separately Vacation home or the cottage experiences increased wind loads.

2. Calculation of snow load on the roof

The roof calculation for snow load is carried out according to the formula:

The total snow load is equal to the weight of the snow multiplied by the correction factor. The coefficient takes into account wind pressure and aerodynamic influence.

The weight of snow that falls on 1 square meter. roof area (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85) is in the range of 80-320 kg/sq.m.

Coefficients showing the dependence on the slope angle are shown in the photo.

Nuance. When the slope angle is over 60 ° the snow load does not affect the calculation. Because the snow will quickly slide down and will not affect the strength of the beam.

Special loads. Accounting for such loads is carried out in places with high seismic activity, tornadoes, and storm winds. For our latitudes, it is enough to make a safety margin.

Nuance. The simultaneous action of many factors causes a synergy effect. This is worth considering (see photo).

Assessment of the condition and load-bearing capacity of walls and foundations

It should be borne in mind that the roof has significant weight, which can cause damage to the rest of the building.

Determining the roof configuration:

simple symmetrical;
simple asymmetrical;
broken line

The more complex the shape of the roof, the greater the number of trusses and rafter elements needed to create the necessary safety margin.

The angle of inclination of a gable roof is determined primarily by the roofing material. After all, each of them puts forward their own demands.

soft roof - 5-20°;
metal tiles, slate, corrugated sheets, ondulin - 20-45°.

It should be noted that increasing the angle increases the area of space under the roof, but also the amount of material. What affects the total cost of work.

Nuance. The minimum angle of inclination of a gable roof must be at least 5°.

5. Calculation of rafter pitch

The pitch of the gable roof rafters for residential buildings can range from 60 to 100 cm. The choice depends on the roofing material and the weight of the roof structure. Then the number of rafter legs is calculated by dividing the length of the slope by the distance between the rafter pairs plus 1. The resulting number determines the number of legs per slope. For the second, the number must be multiplied by 2.

The length of the rafters for the attic roof is calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.

Parameter "a"(roof height) is set independently. Its value determines the possibility of arranging a living space under the roof, the convenience of being in the attic, and the consumption of material for the construction of the roof.

Parameter "b" equal to half the width of the building.

Parameter "c" represents the hypotenuse of the triangle.

Advice. To the obtained value you need to add 60-70 cm for cutting and moving the rafter leg beyond the wall.

It is worth noting that maximum length timber - 6 m.p. Therefore, if necessary, the timber for the rafters can be spliced (extension, joining, joining).

The method of splicing rafters along the length is shown in the photo.

The width of the roof rafters depends on the distance between opposite load-bearing walls.

7. Calculation of the rafter cross-section

The cross-section of the rafters of a gable roof depends on several factors:

loads, we have already written about it;

type of material used. For example, a log can withstand one load, timber - another, laminated timber - a third;

rafter leg lengths;

the type of wood used in construction;

distances between rafters (rafter pitch).

You can determine the cross-section of the beam for the rafters, knowing the distance between the rafters and the length of the rafters using the data below.

Rafter cross-section - table

Advice. The larger the installation pitch of the rafters, the greater the load on one rafter pair. This means that the cross-section of the rafters needs to be increased.

Dimensions of lumber (timbers and boards) for a gable rafter system:

thickness (section) of the Mauerlat - 10x10 or 15x15 cm;

the thickness of the rafter leg and tie is 10x15 or 10x20 cm. Sometimes a beam of 5x15 or 5x20 cm is used;

run and strut - 5x15 or 5x20. Depending on the width of the foot;

stand - 10x10 or 10x15;

bench - 5x10 or 5x15 (depending on the width of the rack);

thickness (section) of the roof sheathing - 2x10, 2.5x15 (depending on the roofing material).

Types of gable roof rafter system

For the roof structure under consideration, there are 2 options: layered and hanging rafters.

Let's consider each type in detail in order to make an informed choice.

Hanging rafters

They are used for roof widths of no more than 6 lm. Installation of hanging rafters is carried out by attaching the legs to the load-bearing wall and the ridge girder. The design of hanging rafters is special in that the rafter legs are under the influence of a bursting force. Hanging rafters with a tie installed between the legs reduce its impact. The tie in the rafter system can be wooden or metal. Often the puffs are placed at the bottom, then they play a role load-bearing beams. It is important to ensure reliable fastening tightening on the rafter leg. Because a bursting force is also transmitted to it.

Advice.
The higher the tightening is located, the greater strength it should have.
If the tightening is not installed, the load-bearing walls may simply “move apart” from the pressure created by the rafter system.

Layered rafters

They are used for arranging roofs of any size. The design of layered rafters provides for the presence of a beam and a stand. The bench lying parallel to the Mauerlat takes on part of the load. Thus, the rafter legs are, as it were, inclined towards each other and supported by a stand. The rafter legs of the layered system work only in bending. And the ease of installation also tips the scales in their favor. The only drawback is the presence of a stand.

Combined

Due to the fact that modern roofs are distinguished by a wide variety of shapes and complexity of configurations, used combined view rafter system.

After choosing the type of rafter system, you can accurately calculate the amount of materials. Write down the calculation results. At the same time, professionals recommend drawing up drawings for each roof element.

Installation of a gable roof rafter system

After the gable roof rafters have been calculated, installation can begin. We will divide the process into stages and give a description of each of them. It will turn out to be unique step-by-step instruction, containing additional information for each stage.

1. Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

The beam is installed along the length of the wall on which the rafters will rest.

In log houses, the role of the mauerlat is played by the upper crown. In buildings built from porous material (aerated concrete, foam concrete) or brick, the Mauerlat is installed along the entire length of the load-bearing wall. In other cases, it can be installed between the rafter legs.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Since the length of the Mauerlat exceeds standard sizes lumber, it has to be spliced.

The connection of the Mauerlat to each other is done as shown in the figure.

How to connect the Mauerlat?

The beams are cut only at an angle of 90°. Connections are made using bolts. Nails, wire, and wooden dowels are not used.

How to attach the Mauerlat?

The Mauerlat is installed at the top of the wall. The installation technology provides several ways to attach the Mauerlat:

strictly in the center of the load-bearing wall;
with a shift to one side.

Advice.
The Mauerlat cannot be placed closer than 5 cm to the outer edge of the wall.

To protect the timber for the Mauerlat from damage, it is laid on a layer of waterproofing material, which most often is ordinary roofing felt.

The reliability of the Mauerlat fastening is an important aspect of construction. This is due to the fact that the roof slope is like a sail. That is, it experiences strong wind load. Therefore, the Mauerlat must be firmly fixed to the wall.

Methods for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall and rafters

Anchor bolts. Ideal for monolithic structures.

Wooden dowels. Used for log houses and beams. But, they are always used with additional fasteners.

Staples.

Stud or fittings. It is used if the cottage is built from porous materials (aerated concrete, foam concrete).

Sliding mount (hinge). Tying in this way allows for the displacement of the rafter legs when the house shrinks.

Annealed wire (knitting, steel). Used as an additional mount in most cases.

2. Manufacturing of trusses or pairs

Installation is carried out in two ways:

installation of beams directly on the roof. It is not used often, since it is problematic to carry out all the work, measurements, and trimming at height. But it allows you to completely do the installation yourself;

assembly on the ground. That is, individual elements (triangles or pairs) for the rafter system can be assembled below and then raised to the roof. The advantage of such a system is faster performance of high-altitude work. The disadvantage is that the weight assembled structure roof truss can be significant. To lift it you will need special equipment.

Advice. Before assembling the rafter legs, you need to apply markings. It is very convenient to use templates for these purposes. The rafter pairs assembled according to the template will be absolutely identical. To make a template, you need to take two boards, the length of each of which is equal to the length of one rafter, and connect them together.

3. Installation of rafter legs

The assembled pairs rise to the top and are installed on the Mauerlat. To do this, you need to make a gash at the bottom of the rafter legs.

Advice. Since the slots on the Mauerlat will weaken it, you can only make cuts on the rafter leg. To ensure that the cut is uniform and fits tightly to the base, you need to use a template. It is cut out of plywood.

Methods of fastening the rafter leg are shown in the figure.

You need to start installing rafter pairs from opposite ends of the roof.

Advice. To correctly install the rafter legs, it is better to use temporary struts and spacers.

A string is stretched between the fixed pairs. It will simplify the installation of subsequent rafter pairs. It will also indicate the level of the ridge.

If the rafter system is mounted directly on the roof of the house, then after installing the two outer rafter legs, the ridge support is installed. Next, the halves of the rafter pair are attached to it.

It is worth noting that the opinions of professionals differ on this issue. Some advise using a staggered fastening pattern, which will allow the increasing load to be distributed more evenly on the walls and foundation. This order involves installing one rafter in a checkerboard pattern. After part of the rafter legs is installed, the missing parts of the pair are mounted. Others insist that it is necessary to mount each pair in a sequential manner. Depending on the size of the structure and the configuration of the truss, the rafter legs are reinforced with supports and racks.

Nuance. Connect additional elements structures using cutting. It is preferable to fix them with construction staples.

If necessary, you can lengthen the rafter leg.

Methods for splicing rafter legs are shown in the photo.

Advice. The method by which the Mauerlat is extended (cut at 90°) in in this case cannot be used. This will weaken the rafter.

4. Installing the ridge of a gable roof

The roof ridge unit is made by connecting the rafter legs at the top.

Roof ridge structure:

Method without using a support beam (see figure).

Method using rafter beams. Timber is needed for large roofs. In the future, it can become a support for the rack.

Method of laying on timber.

More modern variety The method shown in the photo can be considered for making a ridge assembly.

Cutting method.

After the rafter system is installed, we perform major fastening of all structural elements.

5. Installation of roof sheathing

The sheathing is mounted in any case, and is intended for more convenient movement on the roof during the work process, as well as for fastening roofing material.

The sheathing pitch depends on the type of roofing material, for example:

for metal tiles - 350 mm (the distance between the two lower boards of the sheathing should be 300 mm).
for corrugated sheets and slate - 440 mm.
under soft roof We lay a continuous sheathing.

Rafter system of a gable roof with an attic - video:

Conclusion

As you can see, despite its apparent simplicity, the installation of a gable roof rafter system contains many pitfalls. But, based on the recommendations given, you can build without any problems reliable design with your own hands.

The strength of the house and comfort largely depend on the reliability of the roof. Let’s look at how to make a roof with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals and third-party organizations, and what tools will be needed for its construction in stages.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools (the list is approximate and depends on the type of roof and material for covering the structure):

hammer (cutting, figured, handbrake hammer, with a curved end);
wooden mallet with chisel and chisel;
jack;
center punch and tape measure;
roofing and special shears for cutting metal, if you plan to use metal sheets and steel elements;
circular or band saw;
axe;
roofing mites;
putty knife;
hacksaw;
file;
joiner's staple;
zenzubel;
folding belt;
countersink;
riveter

The roof can be built from the following materials (again, the list is approximate and the materials depend on the preliminary design of the roof, as well as on the cost construction site):

tiles;
asbestos-cement slabs (slate);
metal roofs;
slate nails if the roof is made of slate;
steel seam roofing;
insulation;
slate roofing;
rolled roofing material;
roofs made of natural materials (straw, wood, reeds);
wooden beams (15,12,10), unedged boards, boards 40–50 mm by 150 mm;
steel seam roofing;
wire for stretch marks;
bitumen slate;
copper and aluminum seam roofing;
profiled flooring;
water barrier and other materials, depending on the roof and plan.

Stages of building a house roof

Roof construction work can be divided into several stages: fastening the Mauerlat, installing the frame, strengthening the roof, lathing, ventilation, installing drip edges and underlayment, internal insulation roofs.

Whatever form is chosen for the project, the main requirements are strength and lightness. The future roof must be strong enough to withstand heavy weight roofs with snow, but do not put pressure on the walls of the house, which could cause the foundation to sag. Therefore, we will highlight the main components of the roof - these are strong supporting structures, the base and the covering.

Rafter system

The base of the frame, which determines the shape and strength of the future roof, is made from rafters, and they are made from edged boards at least fifty millimeters thick. The width of the boards depends on the type of rafters. If layered rafters are used in the construction of the roof, then the width should be from one hundred and fifty millimeters.

For hanging rafters, boards with a width of one hundred and eighty millimeters are used. The edged board must be dry and High Quality, otherwise the roof will deform over time.

In order to evenly distribute the load on the internal supports of the house, you need to install a block beam with a section of fifteen by fifteen along the axis of the wall.

Then a cornice of beams is installed, with a projection of 39–51 centimeters and short beams. The entire structure is attached to the Mauerlat with self-tapping screws and nails.

Then you need to install the ridge beam. The paving board should be fifty by one hundred and fifty centimeters. The height of the ridge beam and the height of the 1st floor must be equal.

After the timber, a rafter truss is installed. Depending on the size of the house, three methods are used: overlapped joint, end-to-end rafter joint, installation on a ridge beam.

In all three options reinforcement is done, and racks and crossbars are installed under all non-outer rafters.

Installation of gables - the final stage of roof construction

First you need to install the racks that will serve as the frame and plan window openings. If you plan to have a balcony, then you need to plan a doorway to access it.

Now the gable can be sewn up with an inch board and a water drain can be created, after which a hundred-millimeter strip of moisture-resistant material, which will protect from snow and water.

And the last stage, in the construction of the pediment, the eaves boards are sheathed, and the drainpipe holders are attached to the rafters.

Lathing

Depending on the angle of the roof and the roofing material, the required frequency of sheathing is selected. For example, staggered sheathing is performed for laying roofing material with a large weight, and if used soft material, then you can make a double sheathing. The main thing is to maintain an even distance between the battens and secure them tightly to the supporting structures.

It remains to complete the installation of the front overhang and ebb.

Roofing

The installation of the roof is completed by laying the roof.

Slate, stamped tiles, steel sheets are laid in the form of a single-layer structure. The sheets are joined into a lock, and the natural material, roll and strip tiles are laid in a multilayer structure, in the longitudinal or transverse direction, with an overlap.

To prevent the penetration of moisture, cold, drafts and other weather surprises, waterproofing and thermal insulation layers are laid on top of the rafters.

So, we figured out how to make a roof, from the stage of the rafter system to the roof. All that remains is to select the design, material and apply the above instructions in practice.

What makes four faceless, cold walls a cozy home for a person? This difficult question was answered long ago by our ancestors, who spoke of their home as “a roof over their head.” When people built houses with my own hands, they knew not from experience that neither a hut, nor a barn, nor even a cattle shed could be built without this structure. The roof of the house protects from wind, cold and rain, harsh nature, which inhospitably tests a person’s strength. Even now, when construction is carried out by professional craftsmen, the creation reliable roof is considered a difficult task, the implementation of which affects the comfort and ease of use of housing.

Roof functions

The roof is an integral element of the structure of the house; this term refers to the upper part of the structure installed on the walls top floor, to protect against atmospheric precipitation, wind and cold. Roofs perform the following functions:

Waterproofing. the main task every roof is to protect interior spaces houses from the penetration of rain, snow and melt water. Therefore, materials that do not allow liquid to pass through are used for the arrangement. To guarantee reliable waterproofing, they create it like this: roofing pie”, a complex of moisture-proof layers that complement and enhance each other’s qualities.
Thermal insulation. The roof acts as a barrier between the interior of the house and the cold air outside. The structure is built in such a way as to retain heat inside. To maintain livable temperature regime houses use fibrous roofs during the construction process thermal insulation materials. IN summer time, during periods of solar activity, all types of roofs create shade, protecting from harmful ultraviolet radiation.
Aesthetic. The roof is an integral element of home design. Architects use different varieties roofs to create an original appearance of the structure, giving it a recognizable style and charm. The wrong choice of roof turns a representative cottage into a squat shack, so more often than not this decision is made together with an experienced builder or designer.

Important! Appearance and the shapes of the roofs are closely intertwined with the national architectural tradition. This can easily be explained by the fact that the structures were given a geometry suitable for climatic conditions habitat region.

Eg, distinguishing feature residential buildings middle zone Russia has a steep triangular roof, from the slopes of which snow layers easily slide off. For Scandinavia with little snowy winters, chateaus with flat roofs framed by a wide overhang are common. In Pomeranian cities, blown through by winds, pitched and hipped roofs are common, the design of which has a smaller sailing effect.

Roof types

Types of house roofs were born in different historical eras And various countries. The appearance and design were modified and improved, moving along the path of constant complication. In an open world with a high speed of spread of information and technology, roofing is no longer a clearly zoned standard, but is built according to taste preferences and practical tasks. Therefore, in private construction all types of roofs are used:

Important! Two gable roofs with different slopes and slope areas, roofing material, overhang width, different placement dormer windows, “cuckoos”, bay windows have a distinctive, incomparable appearance. Working with an experienced architect and using the capabilities of modern roofing materials, developers are erecting amazing structures with semicircular, multi-level, fantasy roofs. Yes, it is expensive and difficult, but there will always be people willing to pay for style and originality.

Creating a Project

During the construction of the roof there are no unimportant works; all stages of construction affect strength and durability future design. However, designing and creating a project is a crucial moment that requires certain experience and knowledge. Typically this process is performed in the following order:

Important! All stages of ventilation must be performed by a competent architect, whose services are not cheap. If we are talking about a simple single or double slope attic roof, for calculations they use special calculator programs that take over the calculations, simplifying the task of builders. You can also use ready-made standard projects, which thousands of homeowners have tried before you and were satisfied with.

The process of building a roof with your own hands

The beginning of the construction of a roof is a joyful moment for every homeowner, as it means that the construction of their own home is approaching its logical conclusion, with housewarming. Indeed, most often after finishing the roofing work, all that remains is to connect the communications and finish the interior decoration. But, without getting ahead of ourselves, let’s describe the process of arranging the roof from the beginning:

Construction of a roof is a responsible, difficult and long process, on which the microclimate and comfort of living in the house depend. Naturally, more than 90% entrust this task to experienced, proven craftsmen. But you should not avoid participating in the creation of the roof of the house, letting the process take its course. You need to actively participate in the discussion possible options and decision making. To ensure that your vote is thoughtful and you don’t have to regret it, our website will provide you with useful and relevant information that will facilitate communication with builders.

Before we start describing step by step construction roof, you need to understand its structure as a whole. As a rule, all roofing systems include three separate parts, which together constitute a single roofing structure:

1. Yourself main part roof you can call it load-bearing frame, which consists of a rafter system, sheathing and ridge board. Materials such as reinforced concrete, metal and wood can be used to construct a supporting frame.

However, when building a private house, wood is most often used, which not only has low price, but also, in principle, easy to construct a roof. It is this option for roof construction that will be discussed below.

At the same time, we note that for constructing a rafter system it is best to use boards 5 cm thick and 10 cm wide, and for constructing sheathing, boards 2.5 cm thick and 10-12 cm wide are suitable.

2. The second part of the roof is an insulating layer, on which the service life of the roof depends.

As practice shows, one of the main problems of the roof is evaporation and the appearance of condensation, which has a significant impact on load-bearing structure in general and can simply render it unusable. And to prevent this from happening, you should choose the right insulation layer for the roof structure. For this purpose, roofing felt is mainly used, as the most cheap material, but you can also very often find the use of steam-waterproofing film or glassine.

3. And the last but not least important part is the roofing material, which can also be of different types.

The most common and cheapest roofing material is, of course, asbestos-cement and bitumen slate. The second place in popularity is most likely occupied by ondulin, very similar to wavy slate and having excellent resistance to negative impacts. Metal tiles are less in demand, although they are considered the most practical material, but it causes some difficulties during installation.

All these parts of the roofing system must be made of sufficient quality, since the reliability of the entire finished structure depends on them. And the roof, no matter what type it is, must be able to perform the following functions:

the roof must withstand wind and snow loads;
must be waterproof;
the roof structure should not accumulate condensation;
the roof should provide the house normal humidity and even temperature;
must have good resistance to temperature changes and chemical influences;
Lastly, the roof must be constructed in such a way that it can be cleaned and repaired.

Roof Construction Steps

As we have already mentioned earlier, we will consider the load-bearing frame of the roof structure made of wood, which is most often used in the construction of private houses; we will take the cheapest materials – roofing felt and slate – as insulating and roofing materials.

Note that there are two methods of attaching the lower part of the load-bearing roof frame to the wall of the house: the frame is either attached to a floor beam, or the frame is attached to a special Mauerlat, which is a thick wooden beam measuring 15x15 cm in cross-section, laid along the axis of the wall.

Mauerlat helps to evenly distribute the loads in places where the roof structure is supported along the entire wall of the building, however, most often you can do without it, that is, use the first option, but keep in mind that the strength of the beams and walls of the house themselves must be so high as to withstand the entire roof.

When describing the construction stages, the load-bearing roof frame is attached to the floor beam.

Step 1 Installation of rafters

We begin to build the supporting frame. To do this, first of all, using nails 1.5 cm long, you need to fasten the rafters together at the top point in the form of an end connection. Then, stepping back a little lower from the top point, about 60-65 cm, you additionally need to fasten the rafters together with a board, you should get a structure in the form of the letter “A”.

Next, first of all, the outer rafters are installed, while their lower ends are laid on the wall of the house with an extension of about 20 cm. The outer rafters are also attached to the house using nails 20 cm long, and are additionally strengthened with two bevels - one edge, which is fixed to rafter board, and the other to the ceiling beam.

Then you need to install the rafters in the center of the house and mount a ridge board on top, which will give the rafters a stronger connection to each other. After all this work has been done, you can install the remaining rafters according to the same principle as they did before. It must be remembered that ideally the distance between the rafters should be no more than 50 cm.

Step 2 Lathing installation

Before moving on to this step, we note that the lathing system can be of two types, which have their own specific design features and are designed for a specific type of roofing material.

The first and most labor-intensive is considered to be a continuous type system, which, as a rule, consists of two continuous layers, the seams of which intersect in each row. The first layer of such a system is mainly made from edged boards, and waterproof plywood is used as the second layer.

The second, most common and most simple type sheathing is a thinned system that is commonly used for rigid roofing material. And in our case, we will use exactly this type of lathing. To do this, the sheathing boards are laid at a distance of approximately 5 cm from each other with an extension of approximately 25 cm beyond the outer rafters. The sheathing boards are also fastened with nails, that is, two nails to each rafter leg.

Step 3 Insulation

To organize insulation on top of the sheathing, it is necessary to lay rolls of roofing felt vertically with an overlap of at least 15 cm. You can fasten the roofing felt to the sheathing with medium nails with a wide head.

At this step we should also mention insulation. If it is assumed that the house will be without an attic or with a residential attic, then it is recommended to also lay insulation material between the rafters, which is most often used polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

Step 4 Roofing

The last step in building a roof is laying down the roofing material, in our case it is 6-wave slate. You should always start laying slate from the bottom. At the same time, when laying the first three rows, you must check how even these rows are, otherwise, if one of the rows of slate has even the slightest deviation from a straight line, you will have to re-cover the entire roof.

When laying, it should also be taken into account that the overlap of the second row of slate onto the slate of the first row when laying longitudinally should be at least 10-15 cm, and when laying transversely, the overlap of one sheet of slate onto another should be at least one “wave”. The slate sheets are fastened using special slate nails.

Conclusion

As you can see, building a roof consists of just a few simple steps, and the proposed option for installing a roofing system is good for reasons such as:

The construction of such a roof does not require a huge amount building materials, and, consequently, large material costs;
The roof installation described above is so simple that you can easily and quickly do it yourself, and, therefore, you can save on hiring a team of builders.
And lastly, by building a roof with your own hands, you will always be sure that all the work has been done efficiently and the roof will not let you down in inclement weather.