Hip leg. Hip roof truss system: main structural elements

Hip roofs offer an impressive list of compelling benefits. These include an impressive shape, uniform heating and reliable protection of the house from precipitation. Due to the absence of gables, hip structures are not subject to significant wind loads. Compared to gable options, there is much less reason to fear deformation.

The list of advantages can be continued, but their flow is slowed down by a very compelling circumstance: the rafter system hip roof I'm not happy with the simplicity of the device. However, complexity will not stop an independent builder if he is familiar with the nuances of constructing a hipped frame.

Hip roofs differ from their gable counterparts in that there are no vertical gable walls in their design. The place of the pediments was taken by triangular slopes located at the ends, significantly reducing the real and visual volume of the roof.

The economic effect of reducing volume is a controversial issue. When cutting large-sheet material into hip slopes, costs, on the contrary, increase. For example, laying corrugated sheets will force you to fork out for the purchase of a covering one and a half times more than for arranging a standard pitched structure.

Purchasing piece material will allow you to reduce the construction budget, because you won’t have to spend money on cladding the ends of the roof.

By analogy with any building structure, a hip roof can be divided into simple geometric shapes. In the simplest version, without mates and valleys, it has two pairs of symmetrical slopes: two triangles and two trapezoids. On this basis, the hip roof received the parallel name “hippable”.

Viewed from the front, its cut resembles an ordinary triangular gable roof. In profile, the structure has a trapezoidal configuration, which can also be divided into a rectangle with two mirror-image triangles on the sides.

The shape of the trapezoid depends on the architectural preferences of the owner. It is determined by the ratio of the length of the eaves overhang to the length of the ridge. The part of the structure, limited by a rectangle, is constructed in accordance with hanging or layered roofing technology standards.

The hips that replaced the gables are installed at a certain angle to the horizon, because they must adjoin the inclined sides of the trapezoid. It is in their design that the main problem with the hip rafter system lies, because it will not be possible to install it using the usual pitched method. After all, the ridge run does not completely cover the slope. Therefore, the rafter legs of the hips and the triangular parts of the large slopes associated with them literally have nothing to rest their upper heels on.

The support for them will be special slanted rafter legs connecting the ridge girder with the corners of the structure. If you look at the hip rafter structure from above, the slanted rafters will look like diagonals.

The installation direction was the reason for receiving the second technological name - “diagonal”. Naturally, rafter legs of different lengths will rest on the diagonals, because They are installed perpendicular to the roof overhangs. They have their own name - narozhniki.

Summarizing the information, we get that the construction of a rafter frame for a hip roof will involve:

Ordinary rafter legs, resting with the lower part on the mauerlat or on the floor beams. Depending on the type of support, they can be hanging or layered.
Diagonal rafters connecting the corners of the roof and the edges of the ridge girder. Note that they are used not only in the construction of convex corners of hip roofs, but also in the construction of concave corners of valleys.
Narozhniki, forming the planes of the hips and parts of large slopes adjacent to the slanted rafters.

The installation of hanging and layered rafter legs is carried out according to the rules according to which it is constructed. We will deal with their diagonal brothers and the rafter half-legs.

Diagonal rafter legs

Taking into account the diagonal arrangement, it is easy to guess that the length of the slopes is longer than the length of ordinary rafter legs. In addition, they serve as supports for narodniks. As a result, sloped rafters are loaded one and a half times more than ordinary analogues. Therefore, it is customary to make them paired from two boards with a cross-section equal to the same size of material for ordinary rafter legs.

Pairing sloping rafters simultaneously solves three technical problems:

Allows you to increase the load without risk due to the double cross-section of the load-bearing element.
Provides the opportunity to obtain a diagonal structural element of any length without areas weakened by extension.
Eliminates the need for targeted purchase of timber for sloped rafters.

Due to their length, diagonal rafters require additional supports, the number of which depends on the length of the rafter leg.

Supports for diagonal rafters

Regardless of the scale of construction, any scheme for a hip roof rafter system includes supports to strengthen the diagonal rafter legs. If the design size of the slope is more than 9 m, i.e. it covers a span of equal meters, its stability is ensured by two additional supports. For smaller spans, one support located in the upper span zone is sufficient.

The following can be used to support a diagonal rafter:

Rack, installed vertically directly on the ceiling. A piece of waterproofing is laid between it and the ceiling if the rack is to rest against a reinforced concrete slab.
Strut. It is installed, as befits braced rafters, at an angle, the size of which can vary from 45º to 53º. The magnitude of the slope is not particularly important. It is important that the strut itself supports the rafters in the most loaded area. The lower heel of the strut is rested on the bed.
Sprengel. It is a T-shaped short beam made of timber, turned upside down. Used in the construction of large spans that require two or more reinforcing supports. The truss is installed so that its base is perpendicular to the rafter. It is located at the bottom of a large span closer to the corner of the roof. Instead of a truss, a regular short stand can be used.

Additional supports are made, again from a double board or block, and installed at the most loaded points.

The video review will introduce you to the nuances of installing supports for a hip roof frame:

The nuances of supporting rafters

The upper heel of the diagonal rafter rests on the ridge purlin different ways. The choice of method depends on design features rafter system:

In rafter structures with one purlin along the central axis of the roof, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the purlin consoles.
In rafter systems with two purlins and plank rafter legs, the diagonal rafters rest on a truss, which in turn rests on both purlins.
In rafter frames with two purlins and rafters made of timber, in addition to the sprengel, a sprengel is used - a short piece of board that sews together ordinary rafter legs in the ridge area. The thickness of the reinforcing short is 5 cm or more.

The heel of the diagonal rafters for landing on one of the listed upper stops is trimmed in fact. Fastening is done with nails. If necessary, you can strengthen the fixation with wire twists or metal clamps.

The lower heels of the slopes can be rested against the corner of the mauerlat or a specially installed corner beam. You can simply lean on them. The diagonal rafter legs are fastened with metal brackets, nails on top of a wooden overlay, or corners.

Narozhniki and methods of their construction

Narozhniki form the hips and triangular parts of large slopes. The top of the half-leg rests on a slanted rafter, the lower heel on a mauerlat, a mortise beam or a wooden floor beam.

Installation of spigots can be carried out:

By cutting. In slopes, nests are chosen so that the half-legs of adjacent slopes are not located opposite each other. It is recommended that the distance between cuts be at least 20cm. Therefore, during the installation step, the setters are allowed to move so as not to cut out the nests at one point.
By installing cranial bars, serving as supports for the half-legs. 50x50mm bars are built up along the lower edges on both sides of the diagonal rafter. Their presence makes it possible to avoid notches that significantly weaken the load-bearing element.

The second option is easier to work with and is preferable due to the increased rigidity of the structure. In addition, it absolutely does not oblige you to change the installation pitch of the half-rafters: they can be located opposite each other. The frames are attached to the mauerlat or beams using the same method as was used to install ordinary rafters.

Elementary hip rafter system

The easiest way to crown a country property with a hipped structure is to purchase and install ready-made roof trusses. However, it is much more interesting, useful, and cheaper to construct a hip roof and a rafter system that matches it with your own hands.

Moreover, if it is planned to be erected over a small outbuilding, gazebo or summer kitchen. On simple designs It is very worth practicing before applying efforts to more important objects.

Note that in the example below there is no ceiling, the attic is not enclosed and there is no insulation. Snow practically does not linger on the slopes, i.e. the slanted rafter legs are subject to a minimum load by their standard standards. The principle of dispersal between drug addicts has not been preserved.

All nodal connections are made with nails and metal corners. The contractor will need a 5x25cm board for making rafters and purlins, as well as moisture-resistant plywood for constructing a continuous sheathing, because the building is planned to be covered with bitumen shingles.

Stage 1: Modeling and Design

Regardless of architectural complexity building structure she needs a project. It will help you decide on the optimal shape and save you from buying unnecessary materials. A simple hip roof with a standard rafter system will not require super complex drawings, but it is necessary to make at least a simple sketch.

Instructions for simplified design:

We measure the width/height/length of the building. According to the data, we draw the profile and full face of the building on a sheet of paper on a scale, for example 1:50. This means that all sizes will need to be divided by 50. That is. house wall with dimensions 5x2.5m per homemade drawing will be depicted as a rectangle with sides 10x5cm. If it looks too small, you can choose a larger scale - 1:40, 1:25, etc. It is advisable to duplicate the finished sketch a couple of times as a reserve.
Choose optimal height roof and its pitch. To do this, on one of the duplicates of the sketch, we draw several options for the outline of the roof. We determine the most successful one and measure the angle of inclination of future slopes with a protractor.
We mark the installation points of the layered rafters on the double sketch; this is a step. We need to divide both walls into equal sections. It is not necessary that the installation pitch under the hip and pentagonal slopes be the same. In the example, the distance between the rafter legs on both walls of the building is 20 inches, which is 50.8 cm. In fact, the installation step can vary from 0.4 to 2.1 m. However, we note that too often installed rafters will increase the consumption of material many times over, and too rarely will force the structure to be reinforced with an additional counter-lattice.
Let's decide on the length of the skate. Let's draw it on a duplicate of the template, taking into account that the ridge beam must connect a whole number of pairs of rafters. Let's set equal distances from both edges of the long walls.
We transfer all the results to the main sheet and calculate how much material is needed. We calculate the length of the rafters according to external parties taking into account the length of the eaves overhangs of 40-50 cm. We calculate plywood consumption by the number of solid panels per plane of a hipped roof.

Based on the number of rafters, we calculate the amount of fasteners. We will need nails in literally all nodal fastenings. There should be a pair of corners for each rafter leg. Don’t forget to buy a board with a small reserve in case of mistakes in your own work.

To install a hip roof on brick and foam concrete walls, you will need a block for constructing a mauerlat. It is not needed if the rafter system is installed on wooden walls.

Stage 2: Construction of the main part of the hip roof

First of all, we will build auxiliary scaffolding on the basis that between the plane of a homemade stand such as a high bench and the ridge girder, a full-length home craftsman should be placed.

The start of the installation of the rafter system for the future hip roof is the installation of the ridge part of the structure:

We nail an auxiliary board to the walls of the building adjacent to the hips, one edge of which should coincide with the central axis. We stretch a string between the boards, repeating the central axis.
We try on a pair of rafters at the end of the building. They should intersect directly under the lace. We outline the cut lines of the upper heels according to the fact, not forgetting that there will be a 5cm thick purlin between the rafter legs.
Using the templates obtained, we prepare layered rafters.
We install the rafter legs in pairs according to the marks of the main part of the system. Temporarily fasten with one nail.
We install the ridge run between the upper heels, which previously rested freely on each other.
We nail the rafters to the purlin.
We attach the bottom of the rafters to the mauerlat or upper crown of the house with metal corners.

We dismantle the auxiliary boards; we will no longer need them.

Stage 3: Construction of hip slopes

We fasten the hip part of the rafter system in the same way: the lower heels are attached with corners to the mauerlat or to the upper crown, the upper heels are secured with nails. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We try on the first rafter to the slope, marking the actual cutting line. The lower part of the rafter must pass exactly through corner point markings.
We saw off the marked excess. We nail the diagonal leg to the ridge console, fixing the bottom with corners.
We do the same with the other three braids.
We fill the hip slope with spigots, having previously tried on each part in its proper place and sawed off the excess.
We install the pentagonal ramps.

At the end of the work, the rafters are screwed one by one with wire twists to the wooden plugs embedded in the walls or to the second crown, so that the structure is not torn off by a strong gust of wind.

There is a way to lay strands of annealed wire into the masonry during the construction process for subsequent fixation of the rafter system. There should be three more rows on top of the twisted wire brickwork or two rows of foam blocks.

The sheathing is laid over the finished rafter system. In case of use soft roof, as in the above case, the sheathing is made of solid sheets of inch, plywood or similar boards as a covering. A gap of 3 mm is left between the slabs or boards. For hard materials, the sheathing is constructed from a bar with the step recommended in the instructions.

Construction of complex hip roofs

The principle of constructing hip roof frames with more complex architecture is not much different from the example given. The sequence of work is exactly the same. True, it is still wiser and more reliable to fix layered rafter legs with the help of notches.

It is highly desirable to use supports for diagonal rafters. And before installing the ridge part, support frames are installed with a beam at the bottom and a ridge purlin at the top. Another change in the angle of inclination of the slopes when supported by a notch should be taken into account at the design stage.

How to build a more complex rafter system for an interesting hip roof, watch the video:

A hip-type rafter system is more complex than the frame of a conventional gable roof, but you can understand its structure. The hipped design is in many cases preferable; it looks more interesting both above houses and above gazebos and other domestic buildings. The described construction option will help you master the basics in the construction of hip structures, and if the result is successful, a continuation will certainly follow.

We have already talked about the hip roof on the site. There the roof structure was described with the rafters resting on the mauerlat. After publishing the article, I received many requests to show how to make a hip roof with rafters supported on floor beams, and also to answer the question whether it is possible to make a hip roof with different angles slope of the slopes.

Thus, I wanted to “kill two birds with one stone” with one example. Now we will look at the design of a hip roof with the rafters supported on the floor beams and with different slope angles.

So, let's say we have a house box of 8.4x10.8 meters.

STEP 1: Install the Mauerlat (see Fig. 1):

Picture 1

STEP 2: We install long floor beams with a section of 100x200 cm in increments of 0.6 meters (see Fig. 2). I won't dwell on it any further.

Figure 2

The very first to install are the beams that run strictly in the middle of the house. We will be guided by them when installing the ridge beam. Then we put the rest with a certain step. For example, we have a step of 0.6 meters, but we see that there are 0.9 meters left to the wall, and another beam could fit, but it doesn’t. We leave this span specifically for “removals”. Its width should not be less than 80-100 cm.

STEP 3: We install the stem. Their pitch is determined when calculating the rafters, about which a little later (see Fig. 3):

Figure 3

For now we are installing only the stems corresponding to the length of the ridge, which will be equal to 5 meters. Our ridge length is greater than the difference between the length and width of the house, which is 2.4 meters. What does this lead to? This leads to the fact that the corner rafter will not be located at an angle of 45° in plan (in the top view), and the angle of inclination of the slopes and hips will be different. The slopes will have a gentler slope.

It is enough to secure the stem on the Mauerlat with nails. We attach them to a long floor beam, for example, like this (Fig. 4):

Figure 4

There is no need to make any cuts in this node. Any cut will weaken the floor beam. Here we use two LK type metal rafter fasteners on the sides and one large nail (250 mm) driven through the beam into the end of the extension. We hammer in the nail very last, when the stem is already fastened to the Mauerlat.

STEP 4: Install the ridge beam (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

All elements of this structure except the struts are made of 100x150 mm timber. Struts made of boards 50x150 mm. The angle between them and the ceiling is at least 45°. We see that under the outer posts there are beams resting directly on five floor beams. We do this to distribute the load. Also, to reduce the load on the floor beams and transfer part of it to the load-bearing partition, struts were installed.

We determine the installation height of the ridge beam and its length for our home ourselves, making a preliminary sketch on paper.

STEP 5: We manufacture and install rafters.

First of all, we make a template for the rafters. To do this, take a board of the required cross-section that is suitable in length, apply it as shown in Figure 6 and make markings using a small level (blue line):

Figure 6

The height of the block that we placed on the stem to mark the lower cut is equal to the depth of the upper cut. We made it 5 cm.

Using the resulting template, we make all the rafters of the slopes, resting on the ridge beam, and secure them (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

In such structures, where the rafters are supported not by long floor beams, but by short extensions, we always place small supports under the rafters above the mauerlat, forming a kind of small triangle and relieving the attachment point of the extension to the beam (see Fig. 8):

Figure 8

There is no need to bring these supports further inside the roof, much less place them at the junction of the extension with the beam. Most of the load from the roof is transmitted through them (this can be seen in the calculation program) and the floor beam may simply not withstand it.

Now a little about calculations. When choosing the section of rafters for a given roof, we calculate only one rafter - this is the slope rafter. It is the longest here and its angle of inclination is less than the angle of inclination of the hip rafters (explanation - we call a roof slope in the shape of a trapezoid a slope, a hip - a roof slope in the shape of a triangle). Calculations are made in the “Sling.3” tab. Example results in Figure 9:

Figure 9

Yes, I forgot to say. Who has already downloaded this calculation program from my website before December 1, 2013? There is no “Sling.3” tab. To download the updated version of the program, go to the article again at the link:

This article has also been slightly adjusted thanks to feedback from some readers, for which special thanks to them.

STEP 6: We add an extension and attach wind boards (see Fig. 10). We add enough stems to leave room for attaching the corner stem. For now, we simply sew the wind boards at the corners together, controlling their straightness. Check visually to see if the corners are sagging. If so, place temporary supports under them directly from the ground. After installing the corner extensions, we remove these supports.

Figure 10

STEP 7: We mark and install corner offsets.

First we need to pull the string along the top of the floor beams, as shown in Fig. 11

Figure 11

Now we take a beam of suitable length (the cross-section is the same as for all stems) and place it on top of the corner so that the lace is in the middle of it. From below on this beam we mark the cut lines with a pencil. (see Fig. 12):

Figure 12

We remove the lace and install the timber sawn along the marked lines (see Fig. 13):

Figure 13

We attach the corner extension to the Mauerlat using two roofing corners. We fasten it to the floor beam with a 135° angle and a large nail (250-300 mm). If necessary, bend the 135° corner with a hammer.

This way we install all four corner offsets.

STEP 8: We manufacture and install corner rafters.

The hip roof that I described earlier had the same angles of slope and hips. Here these angles are different and therefore the corner rafter will have its own characteristics. We also make it from two boards of the same section as the rafters. But we sew these boards together not quite usually. One will be slightly lower than the other (about 1 cm, depending on the difference in the angles of the slopes and hips).

So, first of all, we pull 3 laces on each side of the roof. Two along the corner rafters, one along the middle hip rafter (see Fig. 14):

We measure the angle between the lace and the corner stem - the bottom cut. Let's call it “α” (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

We also mark point “B”

We calculate the angle of the upper cut β = 90°- α

In our example α = 22° and β = 68°.

Now we take a small piece of board with the cross-section of the rafters and saw one end on it at an angle β. We apply the resulting blank to the ridge, combining one edge with the lace, as shown in Fig. 16:

Figure 16

A line was drawn on the workpiece parallel to the side plane of the adjacent rafter of the slope. We will make another cut using it and get a template for the top cut of our corner rafter.

Also, when we apply the workpiece, we need to mark point “A” on the rafters of the slope (see Fig. 17):

Figure 17

Now we make the first half of the corner rafter. To do this, take a board of suitable length. If one board is missing, we sew two boards together. You can sew it temporarily by cutting an inch about a meter long onto self-tapping screws. We make the top cut according to the template. We measure the distance between points “A” and “B”. We transfer it to the rafter and make the bottom cut at an angle “α”.

We install the resulting rafter and secure it (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

Most likely, due to its length, the first half of the corner rafter will sag. You need to place a temporary stand under it approximately in the middle. It is not shown in my drawings.

Now we make the second half of the corner rafter. To do this, measure the size between points “C” and “D” (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

We take a board of suitable length, make the top cut at an angle β, measure the distance “S-D”, make the bottom cut at an angle α. We install the second half of the corner rafter and sew it to the first with nails (100 mm). We drive the nails at intervals of approximately 40-50 cm. The result is shown in Fig. 20:

Figure 20

The upper end of the second half of the corner rafter needs to be sawed down again. We do this with a chainsaw right on the spot (Fig. 21):

Figure 21

In the same way, we manufacture and install the three remaining corner rafters.

STEP 9: We install racks under the corner rafters. First of all, it is imperative to install a stand resting on the junction of the corner extension with the floor beam (see Fig. 22):

Figure 22

If the length of the span covered by the corner rafter (its horizontal projection) is more than 7.5 meters, we install more racks at a distance of approximately ¼ of the span from the top point of the corner rafter. If the span is more than 9 meters, add racks in the middle of the corner rafter. In our example, this span is 5.2 meters.

STEP 10: We install two central hip rafters. At the beginning of the 8th step, we already pulled the laces to measure them.

We make the rafters in this way - we measure the angle of the lower gash “γ” with a small tool, calculate the angle of the upper gash “δ”:

δ = 90° - γ

We measure the distance between the points “K-L” and make a rafter along it. We file the ends at the angles we have determined. After this, the upper end needs to be filed down (sharpened) again, taking into account the angle “φ”, which we also measure using a small tool (see Fig. 23):

Figure 23

STEP 11: Add offset to the corners. We make the outermost extensions, which do not reach the mauerlat, lightweight, from a 50x200 mm board (see Fig. 24):

Figure 24

STEP 12: We install spigots. I described in detail how to make spigots in the first article about. Here the principle is absolutely the same, so I will not repeat it (see Fig. 25):

Figure 25

We attach the corner rafters to the corner rafters using a 135° metal corner, bending it if necessary.

After installing all the frames, all we have to do is hem the cornices from below and make the sheathing. We have already talked about this many times.

The hipped roof is familiar to most developers. But its second name - hip - can confuse even an experienced builder. It's all about the triangular end slopes (hips), which replaced the vertical pediments.

Why did the creators of such a roof need to complicate the design of a gable roof, you ask?

There are several reasons for this:

The aerodynamics of a hip roof are better than those of a gable roof. Therefore, it steadfastly resists strong winds.
Triangular slopes make the roof rigid and reliable.
The hip design makes it possible to install wide eaves overhangs along the perimeter of the building, protecting the façade of the building from rain.
The appearance aesthetics of such a roof are better than a gable roof.

Construction and types of hip roofs

In order to understand how a hip hip roof is structured, let’s consider its main elements.

Hip impenetrable roof design

As can be seen from the diagram, the main elements of this roof are the same as those of a gable roof. There is a ridge girder, rafters and a mauerlat for attaching them to the wall, racks that support the ridge and struts that relieve the middle part of the rafter legs.

The wind beam holds the rafters together during roof installation, and the fillets extend them, forming roof overhangs. The differences begin with the diagonal rafters that form the hip slopes. Short rafter legs adjacent to the diagonal rafters are called sprigs. To reduce the deflection of long hip beams, trusses are placed under them. This is the name for short T-shaped stands-stands, embedded with their ends into the Mauerlat.

Depending on the width of the building and the presence of internal walls on hip roofs, two types of rafter structures are used:

hanging;
layered.

The name of each speaks for itself. Hanging rafters rest only on the outer walls. In the upper and lower parts they are connected by horizontal tie beams, providing structural rigidity. Layered rafters at the ridge joint are supported by vertical posts, in the middle part - by struts, and with their ends placed on the outer walls.

Structural diagrams of hanging and layered rafter systems for hip roofs

In addition to the classic hip roof, there are several varieties of it, created for reasons of aesthetic appeal:

half-hip 4-slope (Danish);
gable half-hip (Dutch);
tent (4 identical hip slopes);
hip with a broken slope.

Calculation features

The process of calculating a hip roof can be divided into three stages:

The choice of slope angle depending on the type of roofing material.
Determining the lengths of roof structural elements based on drawings cross section building and floor plan.
Selection of the cross-section and pitch of the rafters along their length, taking into account the type of wood used and the standard snow load of the construction region.

The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on the roofing material. Therefore, making the diagram truss structure, you need to take into account its minimum value recommended by the standards (in degrees):

for slate - 22;
soft tiles — 11;
metal tiles - 14;
corrugated sheets - 12;

For a roof made of a waterproof membrane, the angle of inclination of the slopes can be any. Based on the minimum permissible slope value, its actual value is chosen depending on the purpose of the attic space.

If a living space is to be built under a hip roof, its slopes should have an angle of inclination that allows for comfortable movement within the “living area.”

The easiest way to determine the actual length of the roof structural elements is by drawing the rafter system on a scale convenient for measurements.

Knowing the length of the rafters, their pitch and cross-section can be found in the table. The dependence of the geometric dimensions of the rafters on the type of wood and the snow load of the construction region is indicated here.

Selection of rafter cross-section and pitch depending on length, type of wood and snow load

This table can be successfully used in “ reverse order" By choosing the pitch and cross-section of the rafter beams, the type of wood and the amount of snow load, you can easily find the maximum rafter length allowed by the standards.

The cross-section of the Mauerlat beam must be no less than the cross-section of the rafter leg. Most often it is 10x15 cm, 15x15 cm or 15x20 cm. The cross-section of the ridge beam is usually equal to the cross-section of the rafter legs.

For the lathing, use a 25 mm thick board, filling it at intervals recommended for the selected roofing. To install a continuous deck on the roof frame, an OSB board with a thickness of 12-15 mm is used.

Installation features

There are opinions circulating on the Internet that installing a hip roof is very complicated and time-consuming. There is some truth in this, but, at its core, the assembly of this structure is not much different from the construction of a conventional gable roof.

Hip roof for a gazebo - invaluable assembly experience

The process of installing a hip roof rafter system includes several stages:

1. A Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the walls. IN in this case it is placed on threaded steel studs embedded in the masonry and tightened with nuts. At the joining areas (at the corners of the house and at the splice points), landing planes are selected on the Mauerlat, cutting off half of the beam.

2. The further sequence of work depends on the width of the span to be covered (roof area). This point must be taken into account at the stage of drawing up a drawing or diagram of the roof.

You can do without racks supporting the ridge beam if the width of the building (span) is less than 7.5 meters. With a house width of 6 to 7.5 meters, the hanging rafters in the upper part must be tied with a crossbar (a beam with a cross-section of 50x100 mm).

If the width of the building is small (up to 6 meters), then the bottom tie-downs (floor beams) will be sufficient to ensure the rigidity of the rafter system.

Having laid the Mauerlat, mark the central axis on the end walls. Two outer racks are placed along it and secured with temporary struts to the floor beams. If the building is covered with panels, then a central beam is laid on them (the cross-section is the same as that of the Mauerlat). The lower ends of the outer posts are fixed on it.

The initial stage of installation is the installation of vertical posts under the ridge

Intermediate racks are placed in increments of 1-2 meters. If the house is covered with beams, then the racks can be mounted on them, secured with staples or screws.

3. The ridge beam is placed on the racks, the installation locations of the rafter legs are marked on the mauerlat and they are mounted. To attach the rafters to the mauerlat, a notch is used (a cut is made on the rafter leg for a tighter contact).

Cutting the rafter leg into the mauerlat increases the reliability of the joint

4. Hip (sloping, diagonal) rafters are fixed with the lower end to the mauerlat, and with the other - to the junction of the ridge beam and the outer ordinary rafters.

After this, short rafter legs (springs) are attached to them.

Anyone who wants to make a hip roof with their own hands must remember that the main attention here is paid to the quality of assembly of the components. You need to take a very responsible approach to installing the ridge beam, joining the diagonal rafters with the ridge and with the ridges.

The junction of the spigot with the hip rafter

On large roofs, the standard length of timber (6 meters) is not enough to make a solid diagonal rafter. Therefore, it is assembled from two parts, securely fixing them together.

Hip roof overhangs are made by stuffing scraps of timber or thick boards (fillets) onto the rafters, extending 50-100 cm beyond the perimeter of the walls.

Having completed the installation of the rafter system, the sheathing is nailed to it and laid roofing material.

The most important element of the house, which influences the entire building, is the roof. Its design is selected taking into account the weather conditions in your area and the materials used in construction. And of course great importance It has appearance roofs. Among all the structures, the hip roof deserves your attention the most.

Features and design of a hip roof

The hip roof is especially popular because it has high strength characteristics, durability and an original appearance. It is also worth noting its unusual configuration. A hip roof will be an excellent choice when arranging a residential attic floor, as it allows you to simplify the procedure for creating roof windows.

In addition, the hip roof has a streamlined shape. And thanks to this, it is not as susceptible to destruction from wind loads as other structures. The roof ridge, in turn, is not undermined by gusts of wind. And you should pay attention to this property if you live in southern areas with strong winds.

The hip roof has four slopes. They are inclined on all sides of the building. Two slopes are side, like a classic roof design. Two more, additional ones, are located between the previous two. In a hip roof, unlike the hipped variety, there is not one peak, but two. They are connected to each other by a ridge.

Vertical pediments have the form of inclined triangular slopes. They are called hips. It turns out that the two slopes of such a structure take the shape of a trapezoid - along the long sides. And at the end - a triangular shape.

The hip roof structure consists of the following key elements:

Ridge beam. It is this element that is the top point of the roof and its main load-bearing axis. All edges are also connected at this point. Most often, when constructing a hip roof, the center of the ridge coincides with the center of the entire roofing covering.
Corner rafters. Rafter legs of the slanted type act as the basic strength elements and connect the ridge beam and the corners of the building. To cut them, boards are used whose thickness is equal to the thickness of the ridge. The rafter leg is attached to the ridge at one end, and at the other it extends beyond the boundaries of the house. You will need four pieces, depending on the project.
Short rafters. They can be different in length, but come out at the same angle. When determining their number, the roof area is taken into account. Short rafters are connected at one end by corner rafter legs. And for others they rest on the mauerlat or corner of the building and are not attached to the ridge.
Ordinary frame. The central intermediate rafters are installed at the ends of the ridge beams and extend onto the load-bearing walls of the building. Their number is six, on each side - three.
Intermediate frame. The intermediate rafters start at the ridge, and the other side rests on the mauerlat. Not installed on hips.

Types of hip roofs

Before installing a hip roof, you should understand what they are. If a structure with a hip breaks off above the level of the side slopes, then the roof is called Dutch. You can also sometimes come across the name Danish roof. Such a structure is more difficult to build than a classic hip structure. However, old houses with such a roof remain unchanged for decades, and sometimes much longer.

There are also hip hip roofs, the slopes of which take the same shape. There are simply no side slopes. The hips form the same angle. Hip roofs are installed exclusively for square-shaped houses.

You can also find various unusual broken variations of the hip roof. The design consists of slopes that have different size and diverge at different angles. Complex broken hip roofs are rare, but they have the most spectacular appearance.

DIY hip roof

The installation of a hip roof should begin with the design of such a structure. If you develop the circuit correctly, you can assemble it yourself without involving additional workers.

Roof angle

The optimal roof angle should be determined depending on the climatic conditions in the region:

The slope in windy areas should be as small as possible. This way you can protect yourself from heavy loads on external walls.
The roof slope should be increased for regions where heavy snowfall occurs. This way the snow will quickly melt off the roof.
In areas where dry and hot weather prevails, the slope should be kept as low as possible. To forget about overheating forever, choose this indicator at 2-5°.

When using inlaid material in pieces, for example, slate, create the roof at a minimum angle of 22°.
For a hip roof made of roll material The angle of inclination will depend on the number of layers. If you plan to lay two layers, the angle should be up to 15°. If you are laying 3 layers, then make an angle from 2 to 5°.
When installing a roof made of corrugated sheets, construct the roof at a minimum slope - provided that the joints are sealed from 12°.
If you decide to lay metal tiles, do minimum slope at 14°.
For soft tiles, limit the hip roof slope to 11°.
When covering the roof with ondulin, the angle reaches 6°.
If you have chosen membrane roofing, then remember that it is suitable for roofs that have any slope.

In addition, it is recommended to increase the slope of the hip roof proportionally if the total area and the amount of materials used during work have increased. Therefore, if you are interested in savings, you should take this point into account when designing a hip roof.

Hip roof area

Please note that some factors are not included in the hip roof calculation:

dimensions of the chimney pipe;
sizes of dormer windows;
folds;
overhangs and parapets not related to roofing;
slope length,
elements of bars that protrude above the roofing;
adjacencies.

The roof area is determined in square meters. To carry out such calculations, you can use a special calculator, which is easy to find on the Internet. With its help, the area of the roof hip and the amount of building materials are determined.

To calculate a hip roof, you will have to remember the knowledge gained in geometry lessons. Since a hip roof has two vertices, its total area consists of the sum of the areas of two side planes (trapezoid) and the areas of two hips (triangles):

The area of the hip can be determined using the formula of an ordinary isosceles triangle: S= 0.5*a*h, where a is the base of the hip, h is the height of the hip plane.
The area of the side plane is determined by the trapezoid formula: S = h*(a + b)/2, where a is the length, b is the base, h is the height. The area of the trapezoid can be divided into the area of one rectangle and two triangles.
In this case, it is recommended to calculate the area along the length of the eaves, and not along the edges of the house. If you plan to lay metal tiles or roofing in rolls, then reduce the length of the slope by 700 millimeters.
The carpet area can be much larger than the roof itself. This is explained by the fact that the materials are laid with an overlap. There is also a lot on the roof additional elements and adjacencies. Therefore, to calculate the amount of roofing material, add 10% to the roof area. If you are planning to build a complex roof, then 15-20%.

Calculation of the rafter system

Calculating the rafter system of a hip roof is a very important job. The rafters must withstand the roofing material and the loads created by wind and snow. Therefore, when calculating, take into account the weight of the materials used to create the roofing and finishing, the weight of the rafter system and climatic conditions in your region.

For this work, prepare a measuring rod and apply all the markings on it. This way you will get rid of inaccuracies in measurements. To make the slats, use plywood that is 5 centimeters wide. Also prepare a table showing the ratio of lengths and placement of rafter legs to achieve high precision when taking measurements.

Perform calculations in the following sequence:

The length of the rafter leg is equal to the product of the corresponding coefficient.
Mark the axis from the end of the building. Do it along the top trim.
Calculate half the width of the ridge. This way you will find out the location of the first element of the rafter system.
Place the end of the batten against the marked line. The other one should be placed along the line of the side wall. Here there will be a place for the intermediate rafter leg.
To find out the length of the rafters, install one end of the beam on the roof overhang, and place the second on the outer corner of the load-bearing wall.
Where to place the next central rafter is calculated as follows. Move the measuring rod to the edge of the side wall, leave marks on it for the future rafter system.
Similar actions need to be carried out on the three corners that remain. This is how the placement of the ridge and the ends of the intermediate rafter legs is calculated.

To calculate the angle of inclination of a hipped roof, perform the manipulations in the following sequence:

Measure the horizontal projection of the intermediate rafter using a measuring stick.
Find the appropriate roof angle in the table. Do the product of these indicators.
Measure the length of the rafter from the place where the support is attached to the ridge.
Determine the length of the overhang in the same way. Multiply the corresponding coefficient by the horizontal projection.

Now let's talk about the bevel part. Calculate the rafter leg as follows:

Measure its length from the corner of the residential building.
The projection can be obtained by making square projections of the ordinary frame.
Multiply the result by the correction. This will be the length of the corner rafter leg.

Installation of supports for rafters

First of all, install the supports to support the ridge beam:

The lower supports vary depending on the material used to build the house. In paving stones or log houses These functions are performed by the upper crowns of the log house. In buildings that are constructed according to frame technology, the support is the upper frame frame. IN brick houses slanted rafter legs rest on the mauerlat.
The Mauerlat is needed to distribute the load on the external walls. To make it, take a beam of wood that has a cross-section of 100x100 mm. This element can be laid closer to the inner edge of the wall or in the center.
To prevent the roof from being blown off by the wind, attach it using twisted wire. Maintain a step of 1000 mm.
So that you can freely inspect the mauerlat and rafters, maintain certain distances. From attic floor there should be at least 400 mm to the Mauerlat.
The upper support for the system of slanted and diagonal rafter legs is a beam, the cross-section of which is equal to the cross-section of the diagonal rafters.
The hip roof design does not have brick gables, which a gable roof has. Therefore, install racks with a cross section of 100x100 mm under the ridge beam. They are placed in increments of 3-4 m, as shown in the photo of the hip roof.
Prop the stand flat. Lay it on an internal load-bearing wall or floor slab. In the first case, a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm is used to make the bench. In the second situation - a beam with a cross-section of 150x150 mm. It is imperative to lay rolled waterproofing under the bed.

Installation of the rafter system

When installing a system of slanted and diagonal rafter legs for a hip roof, follow these instructions:

Sloping rafters are attached to internal corners walls, and diagonal ones - to the external ones. The length of the first ones is longer than ordinary rafters, since they bear one and a half times the load.
The shortened rafters of the slopes will rest on the rafter legs of the mowing type. They are called narozhniki. They are usually made paired from two row legs.
Under the diagonal rafters, supports are installed - one or two. To make them, use racks made of timber. The struts are placed at an acute angle of 45°.
The intermediate rafter legs rest on top of the ridge beam and below on the mauerlat. When installing them, adhere to a pitch of 1.0-1.2 m. The sections of such legs must be selected depending on the beam design - one- or two-span, the pitch of the rafters, the load created by the weight of the roof and snow. Remember that the intermediate rafter legs should not be too long.
Attach every second rafter to the load-bearing wall using twists. Make them from 2 wires that have a diameter of 4 mm. Connect the intermediate frame to the Mauerlat. Use a back brace for this.
Angled rafter legs are known as sprigs. They are also often called half-legs, as they have a shortened length. On one side, the narozhniki rest on the mauerlat, on the other, on the diagonal leg. To evenly distribute the load from the corner legs on the mowers, they are attached to the diagonal ones different places, according to the hip roof scheme.
For symmetrical placement of all rafter legs, make marks on the ridge beam and mauerlat. The most important point in the manufacture of a hip roof rafter system is the proper connection of all elements in the places where the central and diagonal rafters intersect. To do this, make cuts on the beams that have a double bevel.

Roof reinforcement and sheathing

To make a hip roof design durable and reliable, it is not enough to simply make a strong rafter system. It also needs to be strengthened:

To strengthen it, a sprengel is placed in the corners - a beam that is thrown between the shoulders of the Mauerlat and forms an angle. These posts are designed to support the diagonal rafter legs. If the truss is located far from the corner, then it is recommended to attach a truss to it.
Install racks on the ceiling, which are connected at the top by timber. It acts as a real support for the rafters and ensures uniform distribution of the load on the building. Such racks serve as shelves.
If the diagonal rafters have very longer length, then you should use double beams instead of a single beam, as shown in the hip roof video.
It is recommended to use wooden boards to create the sheathing. Also suitable for this purpose are bars with a cross section of 40 by 40 or 50 by 50 mm.
Pre-treat the wood protective composition, then dry thoroughly. It is better not to use damp boards for work, as they can cause deformation of the roofing.
The sheathing is placed perpendicular to the rafter legs. The rafters must be placed in a continuous layer. You can also install them in increments of 10-15 cm. The method of arranging the sheathing depends on the type of roofing material. For example, for a soft roof, only continuous lathing is allowed.

Roofing pie device

After installing the sheathing on the hip roof, you can start arranging the roofing pie:

First, lay a layer of waterproofing material to prevent penetration under roof covering water. Waterproofing will also help prevent condensation from forming. Secure it to the rafters using a staple gun. Reinforce the top with a counter-lattice, not forgetting the gaps between the roofing and waterproofing material to create ventilation.
Placement of vapor barrier and thermal insulation material will depend on the purpose of the attic. Determine whether it will be warm or cold. In a situation with a cold attic, insulate the floor because heat leakage from the living space is minimal. In the case of a warm attic space, insulate the roof as well. Place insulation between the rafters. Then cover the back surface of the hip roof with construction paper. As a result, you will get a ceiling for the attic.
A vapor barrier material is often placed under the insulation. It is placed overlapping. Therefore, you should expect a lot of material consumption.
When choosing a roofing material, consider its appearance, strength characteristics, reliability and durability. Also pay attention to the weather conditions in the region and the angle of your roof.
A hip roof is a classic design, so clay tiles that do not deform and do not fade will look great.
Take a closer look at other tile materials - bitumen and metal tiles. They have a budget price and differ simple installation, are characterized by high levels of resistance to various types of damage and noise insulation.
It is allowed to use sheet versions of roofing material made of metal profiles. To achieve the most original look hip roof, consider copper cladding. This is an expensive material that increases the price of a hip roof. However, its cost is more than justified by its environmental friendliness and great endurance.
Then start covering the ridges and eaves, finishing the chimney pipes in those places where they pass through the roof, installing gutters and dormer windows. Pay special attention to the installation of snow retention elements, drainage system and roof railings.

Thus, hip roofs are very popular. Especially if you decide to build a small country house or cottage. Take a closer look at the hip roof when constructing a representative office building. In addition, such a design will be ideal for building original architecture with elevations, projections and turrets. And a hip roof is ideal for constructing an attic floor.

A hipped hip roof is considered a rather complex and material-intensive structure, which few homeowners undertake to build with their own hands. But if you decide to self-construction, first go through the preparatory path - study theoretical materials, including those presented in this publication. Then assemble a model of the rafter system without large sizes to understand the components, the nuances of their manufacture and the calculation of the amount of timber. So, we suggest you take the first step and consider...

Design features

This type of roofing structure, shown in the photo, is a regular ridge roof, but without vertical gables. Instead, 2 additional slopes are made on the sides of the building - hips, which have a different slope angle.

Reference. If all 4 planes are tilted at the same angle, you get another type of roof - a hip roof. Since its slopes converge at one point in the form of a dome, there is no ridge as such.

The hip roof rafter system consists of the following elements (shown in the diagram):

Mauerlat, lying - a powerful strapping beam mounted on the upper plane of the walls along the perimeter of the building and internal partitions;
roof slopes are formed by inclined beams installed at calculated intervals - rafter legs;
together with stiffening elements - tie rods, racks and braces - the rafters form roof trusses;
ridge girder - a beam connecting the upper points of the trusses;
in some designs, the lower part of the rafter legs is lengthened due to an additional part - a filly.

Along the line of convergence of the planes, hip rafters are installed, resting on the corners of the building. Their slope coincides with the angle of the main slopes. But the end rafter legs, called sprigs, form steeper or flatter slopes on the sides of the house.

When constructing 4-slope roofs, 2 types of trusses are used - hanging and layered. In the first, the lower chord (tightening) rests only on the external fences of a private house, so installing them on spans that are too long is irrational due to the increased consumption of materials for the stiffeners. See the drawing for the construction of a hanging truss:

The advantage of layered structures is the ability to rest on a solid interior partition and cover large spans without increasing material consumption. Beginners in the roofing business should pay attention to these trusses, as they are more reliable and easier to install.

If it is planned to arrange on the attic floor residential attic, then the slope angle of the main slopes increases, and the farm receives 2 supports in the form of racks that form the walls of the room. These parts are usually placed on the floor beams or floor beams of a wooden house. The ceilings of the attic room are formed thanks to horizontal ties connecting the rafters at the top, as done in the diagram:

Installation of a hip roof step by step

Like any serious structure, a hip roof is erected with your own hands in several stages:

Creation of a project with calculation of load-bearing structures.
Harvesting timber and other roofing materials.
Installation of the rafter system.
Laying covering with insulation (if necessary).

Design advice. So that you do not have to worry about the reliability of the building, it is strongly recommended to entrust the design work to engineers, regardless of the financial costs. They will calculate all the parameters - the installation pitch of the rafters, their cross-section, the number of struts and ties in accordance with the weather conditions in your area.

Above, as an example, is a drawing of a hipped roof with layered trusses covering 2 spans of 4.5 m each. The length of the main rafter legs is 6 m, the height of the ridge is 4 m, the angle of inclination is 41°. This design can be taken as a basis if the width of the building does not exceed that indicated on the drawing (9 meters). Please note an important point: the more the hips are inclined, the greater the load experienced by the flanges and the central ridge assembly where they rest. IN in this example It is better to place the hips at an angle of 45-50°.

The most difficult thing in the construction of hip roofs is correct installation joints of corner rafters with the Mauerlat and the upper chord of trusses in different designs. This is another reason to consult with designers who develop junction units individually. So that you understand what we are talking about, we present drawings of the upper support unit, where the hip rafter leg is adjacent to the ridge.

Some designs do not provide for the manufacture and installation of a ridge girder between the trusses. Then the hip ribs are attached to the tie and additional struts, as prescribed in the drawing:

The lower support leg assembly on the mauerlat and splicing the rafters looks somewhat simpler, although in reality it requires careful sawing of the boards at different angles, which is reflected in the diagram.

For a visual overview of more complex system where the hip is combined with the bay window, we suggest watching a training video:

Selection of lumber

Before making a rafter system for a hip roof, you should choose high-quality and dried timber. In terms of price-quality ratio, the most suitable option– coniferous tree – spruce, larch or pine. Pronounced knots, rot and traces of insect pests are unacceptable.

We present the most popular sizes of lumber used for phased construction hip roofs:

main rafter – single board 50 x 200 mm or double board 40 x 150 mm;
Mauerlat: minimum section – 100 x 150 mm, optimal – 20 x 20 cm;
narozhniki – board 5 x 15 cm;
purlins – timber 50 x 150 or 50 x 200 mm;
struts, crossbars - boards with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm;
racks – block 5 x 10 cm.

A set of mounting plates and corners will also come in handy.

Note. If roofing structures are designed for you by design engineers, they will also draw up a specification of all materials with dimensions.

Traditionally, 25-32 mm thick boards are used for the lathing for laying corrugated sheets or metal tiles, and 5 x 5 cm bars are used for the counter-lattice.

Installation of strapping beams on walls

Unlike gable roofs, where the mauerlat is installed on the side walls, under the hips the strapping is done along the entire perimeter. Exceptions are frame, log and timber houses, where the upper wall crossbar or the last tier of logs acts as a mauerlat. Then grooves are made in it where the rafter legs are inserted, as shown in the photo.

On walls made of light cellular stone - aerated concrete and foam block - a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt is installed before laying the framing. Mounting studs are embedded into it, onto which the strapping beam is subsequently placed. The step-by-step work order looks like this:

Installation of panel formwork, tying the reinforcement cage with embedded parts and pouring the belt concrete mixture M200.
Waterproofing the concrete surface with roofing felt or bitumen primer.
Installation of timber and its fixation on studs.

The corner connections of the Mauerlat are made by cutting into half a tree. In the same way, the timber is increased in length if standard size 6 m is not enough. Also, horizontal braces are made in the corners or iron brackets are driven in to prevent the beams from moving apart under the load of the main and hip rafters.

Advice. Be sure to process everything wooden parts antiseptic and fire retardant. One protects the wood from rotting, and the second increases its fire resistance.

Assembling the rafter system

It is customary to install large roofing trusses locally, because to lift them from the ground, you will need twice as many workers. IN wooden houses First of all, all the beams are installed ceiling, and temporary flooring is laid over them. To install the high ridge, you will also need scaffolding.

The step-by-step assembly of the hip roof structure is performed in the following order:

As with the construction of a gable roof, the first step is to install the central supports where the ridge girder is attached.
The main rafters are installed, which are cut at the top and bottom at the desired angle. At the ridge, the opposing rafter legs are brought out into one plane and fastened with steel plates on self-tapping screws (yellow, not black). The beams are fixed to the Mauerlat with corners.
After installing the main trusses, strengthen them with crossbars and struts according to the drawings, using bolts for fastening.
Install the ribs - the outer hip rafters. Their connection with the ridge and strapping beam carried out according to one of the schemes proposed above.
Saw off and nail the flanges to the frame. Each of them is cut at different angles, determined by measuring at 4 points (along each edge of the board).
If necessary, secure the fillets to provide an overhang of 0.5 m, and hem the cornice with boards.

Advice. Since the hip ribs are very long, they need to be extended and additional supports installed. Make the joint near the ridge, where the load on the roof is less, and mount the supports closer to the mauerlat.

How the elements of the hip structure are attached in reality, see the following video:

Laying the finishing coating

This final operation is performed using traditional technology, which involves ventilation of the under-roof space and installation of a waterproofing layer of a diffusion membrane. The latter does not allow moisture to penetrate from the street into attic space, at the same time, the film freely allows water vapor to pass out. There is one difference from covering conventional gable roofs: additional flashings are placed along the fracture lines (on the edges of the hips).

The covering material is laid in the following order:

The rafter system is completely covered with a diffusion membrane. The canvases are rolled out horizontally with an overlap of at least 100 mm, starting from the bottom. The joints must be taped with tape.
The film is nailed to the outer edges of the rafters through counter-lattice bars with a section of 5 x 5 cm, ensuring ventilation duct under metal tiles or other material.
Sheathing boards are nailed perpendicular to the direction of the rafter legs. The installation interval depends on the chosen covering, and for soft tiles the filling is done continuously.
Roofing material and all fittings are installed at the ends of the roof, as well as around ventilation and chimney pipes.

Note. Counter-lattice bars nailed to the rafters should not become an obstacle to the ventilation air. Therefore, they are specially shortened to a length of 2-3 m and nailed down with a gap of 5-10 cm between adjacent elements.

Insulation of a hip roof is done both during installation of the covering and after it; the main thing is to assemble the correct “pie” shown in the diagram. In the first case, mineral wool is laid on top, under the waterproofing, and in the second - from the inside.

Conclusion

You need to understand that a hip roof has few advantages over a gable roof. First of all, she is beautiful architectural solution, and secondly, it reduces the wind load on the side facades of a private house. But the homeowner will have to pay for this with increased consumption of timber and increased complexity of construction, and therefore time costs. Hence the advice: take your time with the decision and think carefully about the pros and cons. But if you have already taken it, then do the roofing with high quality, for yourself, without saving money on consultations with construction engineers.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.