How to properly install slopes on a balcony door. DIY slope installation

The window installation process is coming to an end and you are already looking forward to the new appearance of the room? However, do not forget about the slopes, without which you obviously cannot get an aesthetic picture. How to make slopes on plastic windows? How difficult is it to do it yourself? You will get answers to these questions by reading the article.

As a result of reading our article, you will have the same beautiful window

Why plastic slopes

Currently, plastic slopes are becoming more and more in demand. A one-piece design that fits quite harmoniously into any interior, low cost and ease of installation, allowing you to do all the work yourself - these are the main competitive advantages panels made of plastic.

There are two ways to make plastic slopes with your own hands:

1. by using starting profiles;
2. without using a starting profile.

Method using a starting profile

Method without starting profile

The starting profile allows you to install slopes as smoothly as possible, which, in turn, will affect correct form windows in general. In addition, its use when constructing slopes allows you to obtain a strong, sealed connection. However, there are times when using a starter profile is quite difficult or even impossible. For example, if the distance from the wall to the frame is too small.

Advantages

The advantages of plastic slopes include the following factors:

• low cost;
• quite long service life;
• a wide range of colors and, as a result, the ability to decorate any room;
• easy to maintain, because dirt can be easily removed from plastic with a damp cloth;
• speed and ease of installation;
• Possibility of use both indoors and outdoors.

Flaws

On to the cons plastic slopes exposure should be considered high temperatures. In addition, if for some reason a crack or hole appears on the plastic, you will have to replace the panel completely.

Selecting the thickness of panels for slopes

For clarity of the process, we have prepared for you a “sectional” diagram of finishing the slope

If you have made your choice in favor of plastic slopes, let's figure out how to make them yourself. The first thing you will encounter is purchasing the panels themselves. You should not choose them with a thickness of less than 8 mm. Based on the dimensions of your window opening, take panels with a small margin, especially if this will be your first slope.

In addition, you will also need the following materials:

• polyurethane foam;
• wooden blocks that will be attached to the side and upper sides window opening;
• self-tapping screws and dowels for fixing the starting profile and wooden blocks;
• the starting profile itself and the F-shaped bar;
• silicone in the color of plastic panels;
• decorative corners;
• liquid Nails.

Do not forget that slopes can be made only 36 hours after the installation of the window is completed. It is during this period that the polyurethane foam finally hardens.

Installation of slopes using a starting profile

Procedure (photos can be enlarged by clicking on them):

What to do if the distance from the panel to the wall is too large

If the distance from the wall to the future slope is quite large, it is reasonable to make another frame from wooden blocks along the outer perimeter of the window opening:

1. We attach an F-shaped strip to it, also using construction staples.
2. We insulate the space between the wall and the future slope, and then insert the panel with one edge into the starting profile and the other into the F-shaped strip.
3. After this, we fix each panel to the F-shaped strip using staples in increments of 20-30 cm at an angle of 45 degrees, install decorative corners and seal all joints with silicone.

Working with polyurethane foam, you should know a few features. If the surface is smooth, the level of adhesion will not be very good. In order to avoid this, the surface that will subsequently face the wall should be treated with sandpaper and primer. In addition, for complete polymerization of the foam, the surface must be slightly damp. For this reason, we spray the slope wall with minimal water.

Installation without using a starter profile

The procedure, the first steps are the same as in the first method:

1. We completely clean the walls of debris and foam that interferes with work.

2. Also, do not forget to protect the glass and frame from possible damage, for example, with mounting tape.

3. We measure the size of all external window openings and cut out wooden blocks of the required size.

The slats are fixed around the perimeter

4. We fasten the bars evenly on each side using self-tapping screws. We recess the screw caps a few mm into the wood.

A cut in the foam along the width of the panels

5. We measure the width of the plastic panel and cut out exactly the same amount of foam around the entire perimeter of the frame.

6. We carefully mark the panels (taking into account 1 cm, which will go into the foam and a little should be taken as a reserve) and cut them out. For greater convenience, you can use cardboard or old wallpaper as a stencil. If the cut edge is uneven, it should be processed using a file or sandpaper.

Insert the top panel

7. We insert the panel with one edge 1 cm into the cutout prepared in the foam, and fix it with the other to a wooden block. The easiest way is to use a construction stapler, driving staples every 20-30 cm at an angle of 45 degrees.
Final view

As you can see, there is nothing difficult about making plastic slopes yourself, even if you have not worked with such material before. It all depends on availability the right tool and what is especially important is good preparation before work and accurate markings.

Video

1. Video method for installing slopes on plastic windows with a starting profile:

2. Installation method without starting profile:

In this article I will describe the process of installing slopes for a balcony door.

What we have: we have already installed a metal-plastic balcony door. On the side of the room we will make slopes from sandwich panels, and on the side of the balcony we will plaster and paint.

Tools we will need:

• Level;
• Construction tape;
• Corner;
• Electric jigsaw (hacksaw);
• Pencil.

Finishing of internal slopes

This is what sandwich panels look like. The front side is covered with a blue protective film. I had to buy 1.5 meter panels, since no other sizes could be found. We'll connect them. The cost of such panels is 150 rubles/piece.

Initially, we will make slopes inside the room.

This is what the door looks like ready for finishing.

First of all, we will cut off the excess foam that may interfere with us when installing the sandwich panels. At the junction of the panels we will make a small groove of 0.5-1 cm.

First of all, we will measure and cut out the panel for the upper slope.

We will fasten the panels using polyurethane foam. For this operation, I bought Soudal Professional 60 polyurethane foam (250 rubles), foam removal liquid (80 rubles) and a foam gun (300 rubles).

The process of attaching the slope is as follows. Before applying foam, wet the surface with water. Filming protective film with sandwich panel. Insert the panel into the groove and bend it back.

When fastening panels with foam, the rule is this. More foam in the places where it joins the frame (so that when the foam expands, it presses the panel against the frame), and not too much in the places where it joins the corner of the wall. There is no need to completely fill the distance between the panel and the concrete slopes with foam, but only in two places: adjacent to the box and adjacent to the corner of the wall. The fastening must be done level. To secure the panel I used masking tape.

We cut the other panels in the same way and fasten them. The main thing is not to screw up with pruning. After all, the slopes come with a gap, and they will not connect to each other at right angles. In a word, measure 7 times - cut once. Small gaps between the panels and the frame are allowed, as we will then seal them with sealant. But ideally it is better to achieve a minimum gap gap.

To level the panels, I placed folded paper and secured the panel masking tape to Wall. Then I glued the panel and concrete slope together with foam.

This is what the joint between the panels looks like where it had to be extended.

After the foam has risen, we proceed to sealing the seams between the panel and the box. For this task, I used white Macroflex sealant (RUB 120).

Before starting work, clean the gap from possible foam. Apply the sealant directly along the crack in a continuous line. Then, once the sealant was applied, I simply ran my finger along the seam to give the sealant a finished look.

The next step is optional, but I did it. Plastering the opening between the panel and the concrete slope. I did this to secure the panels more firmly. However, this opening will be hidden under a plastic corner. Those whose opening is larger than the width of the corner will have to plaster it in any case.

Also, do not forget that we attach the panels only on three sides: at the top and on the sides, and the bottom will also need to be plastered and painted.

On at this stage We are done with the internal slopes and are moving on to the external ones.

Finishing of external slopes

We will close the gap between the concrete and the frame using plaster mixture Rothband. First of all, we will remove the excess foam between the box and the concrete quarters and make a groove about 1 cm deep so that we get a more or less normal layer of plaster. When everything is ready, we move on to plastering. It is important that the plaster fits tightly to the box (so that there are no gaps). After the plaster has dried, we will go over it with sandpaper to give the slopes a smoothed look.

From the author: Hello, our dear readers. In one of our recent articles we talked about installing plastic windows on the balcony. We hope that you have already successfully completed this task or will do so soon. But, you see, if you take a critical look at the balcony after installing PVC windows, you will notice that something is missing.

Of course, I'm talking about slopes now. Oddly enough, many sincerely believe that this is not a necessary detail. Even companies involved in window installation consider slopes on loggias separately from the main package. Accordingly, they include this in the price list as additional service, and at a fairly high cost, which also scares off customers.

Well, okay, we won’t discuss others’ desire to make money now. I’ll just tell you what slopes are needed for, how to make them yourself, and then I’ll tell you about some of the nuances of the work. And then decide for yourself whether you should take on this matter yourself, or entrust it to specialized workers.

Why are slopes needed?

Slopes are installed both indoors and outside outside plastic windows. In the first case, they perform rather an aesthetic role. A window framed on three sides with neat trim looks much more advantageous and pleasant than surrounded by bare sections of the wall.

But there is another factor that is much more important than the aesthetic component. This, of course, preserves the quality and durability of windows. Here we are talking about slopes installed on the street side. I'll explain in more detail.

During the installation procedure for plastic windows, all seams and joints are filled with polyurethane foam. This is necessary both for more reliable fastening of the profile in the opening and for high-quality sealing. Polyurethane foam - good material, perfectly copes with its functions. But, like many other means, it is not able to withstand the destructive effects of the external environment.

There are several types of influences that gradually spoil this sealant: Sun rays and humidity. When water gets into the pores of the polyurethane foam, the latter loses part of its thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, water behaves differently depending on climatic conditions. Subzero temperature air contributes to its expansion, positive - on the contrary. By compressing and unclenching, moisture purely mechanically spoils the polyurethane foam.

The same problem is dangerous for the window opening itself. During the installation of windows, very often some damage occurs: cracks, chips, etc. And here moisture also has its destructive effect.

So, that’s why slopes are needed, to reduce possible troubles to a minimum. They protect both the window opening and the installation sealant, while looking very aesthetically pleasing. Their design options are very diverse; you can come up with and create a design to suit any interior.

The best part about all this is that the slopes are, in general, quite easy to do yourself. There are quite a few options. We will talk about three main ones.

Plaster

Many people are accustomed to the fact that window slopes need to be puttied or plastered. They did this until plastic panels appeared, since then installation window slopes doing it yourself has become much easier.

Installing window slopes with your own hands - choosing panels

After windows have been installed in your home, the main and main problem slopes remain. And no matter how carefully and efficiently the installation team works, chips and cracking on the slopes will always happen. In addition, a plastic window is much thinner in size than an old wooden one. For this reason, after installation there remains a strip of unplastered wall, which in any case must be sealed. For these purposes, it is best to arrange plastic slopes.

It should be immediately noted that installing panels is a very labor-intensive process. If you have very little idea about this, it is best to turn to professionals for help. But if you have made a firm decision to do everything yourself, we will tell you about it in detail.

It is important to know that high-quality PVC slopes are quite thick. 8–10 millimeters of thickness is enough so that the slope does not sag and has a rigid fixation near the window frames. In addition, PVC slopes of this thickness have high thermal insulation properties, and if you use mineral wool during installation, then your home will not be afraid of the most severe frosts.

Plastic slopes are easy to wipe, for this reason they are recommended to be installed in rooms with high humidity, for example, in kitchens, loggias, balconies, etc. Plastic products do not “collect” any mold or dampness on themselves. This is their undeniable advantage.

Plastic panels have other advantages:

• Ideal appearance. Plastic slopes have a smooth, uniform surface.
• When using these products, no streaks or stains are formed. And you can clean them with water and any detergent.
• Plastic panels have long term operation.
• Installation is quick, after installation there is a minimum of dust and debris, they do not require puttying or painting.
• Excellent moisture resistance of the material used.
• High vapor permeability.

How to install slopes - preparation for installation

Before you start installing the window slope, you must check the evenness of the installation of the inserted window. This is necessary in order to immediately correct all inaccuracies (if any). If the window is installed incorrectly, the plastic panels will clearly show all the flaws in the installation of the window unit. Before you begin installing window slopes with your own hands, you need to carry out a whole range of preparatory work:

• trim off excess foam;
• if necessary, knock down the remains of the plastered slopes;
• test for strength brickwork in the area of ​​the window slope for integrity;
• punch a hole for the window sill;
• cover the foam with a vapor barrier material;
• seal through holes (if any) with foam or cement mortar;
• Remove the protective film from plastic windows.

The installation of plastic slopes must be approached with full responsibility and knowledge of the matter, otherwise the installation of window slopes will be done incorrectly, which will affect the heat transfer of the room and visual perception. Plastic panels are installed only after the window sill has been installed. It is important to understand that installing slopes and window sills are two interrelated processes.

Plastic slopes, as a rule, are installed using a U-shaped profile (starting profile). It is screwed to the edge of the window block with metal screws, the step of which is 1 cm. It is recommended to perform this operation along the marked line on the window profile. There are a variety of starting profiles that are snapped into place before installing the window on plastic frame. If you decide to use this type profile, then when purchasing it is recommended to clarify whether the starting and window profiles.

How to install slopes on windows - practical methods

There are several options that are most often found in the practice of builders. One of them is foaming. This method good because the foam, which is in the body of the slope, significantly increases the strength plastic product for deflection. Polyurethane foam is also an adhesive and thermal insulation material. Installation is quite simple - foam is applied to the underside of the panels, and they are installed in place. If you are installing slopes with your own hands, you must remember that the main task is to correctly align the slope with a plumb line.

There is one caveat - so that the foam, as it expands, does not deform the panels, they must be pressed against the wall for some time with something heavy.

Another method of attaching plastic panels, which is strongly recommended by manufacturers of this product, is screwing to the profile on the outer edge of the slope. By choosing this option, you must understand that you will need to close the corner of the end. To do this, you need to cut strips of the required width from PVC panels. Using a specialized rail that has a snap-in corner, the plastic panel must be firmly fixed in the desired position. If you decide to use a regular mounting rail, then in this case the panel is secured to the rail with a stapler.

After you have secured all the panels, the top and sides of the ends between the wall and the slope must be closed with special ones. These corners will “extend the life” of your wallpaper in the window area.

A method for simple plastering of slopes

Initially, the surface is primed, then a layer of plaster is applied, and the corners are leveled. Rules are used to level the surface. Each new layer can be applied only after the previous one has dried. By the way, this is where it lies main drawback method - time is spent not so much on work as on waiting.

A special flat strip is installed to the top of the panel. It serves as a beacon to ensure that the slope is perfectly level. On the sides of the slopes, the slats are installed vertically. To achieve maximum accuracy when installing, use a plumb line. It is best to level the applied solution with a special mortar. After using the plaster mixture, the final step is to apply fine putty and rub it in after drying.

I would also like to note the fact that installation of slopes is not a type of service for which the price is so high that you can save money. Therefore, many people prefer to hire specialists who, in exchange for your money, will save your time. All you have to do is enjoy beautiful view and cleanliness with a minimum of costs. However, even masters need supervision, so this knowledge will certainly be useful to you.

After installing plastic windows, the window opening looks far from in the best possible way: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster stick out, wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closing different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic with polypropylene foam between them). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given with step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to attach slopes to plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a starting profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually from the hinge side - completely impossible.

After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.

The installation of slopes for plastic windows begins with preparing the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a stationery knife. It is easy to cut, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold up well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - the foam will slide less.

Then, around the perimeter of the window we nail (we place it on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side facing the slope.

Usually they don’t level it, they nail it as is, but if you want, you can make it level by placing pieces of plywood, thin boards, etc. in the right places.

Now you need to cut the plastic panels correctly. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, crimp, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on the plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut it off than to cover it up later.

We cut it with a hacksaw and a metal blade, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up straight, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even; where necessary, we trim it with a file.

Having removed the tried-on and adjusted strip, along the outer edge that will be nailed to the plank, we drill holes according to the thickness of the nails, retreating about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to attach and will not damage the plastic.

We put it in place again, take a balloon with mounting foam and short “sprays” to fill the gap with foam. We try to get as deep as possible, but don’t pour too much: when it swells, it can distort the plastic.

There are several points to consider when working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not have a very good grip on it. To improve it, either treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and/or prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it should be swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

Then we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Using the same technology - cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge smooth it is easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a smooth block, a file or a sharpening stone (half a circle, as in the photo).

We adjust it until it matches perfectly (as best as possible) at the top and bottom, and install it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge to the same level as the wall plaster. You can do this with a stationery knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.

Having removed it, we also drill holes for nails along the outer edge. We install the panel in place, take foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam is not good here either, as it can bend the plastic. Therefore, we fill it in short portions, trying to fill it as deeply as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: apply foam to the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which goes under the frame, before installation. The strip is made continuous or applied as a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, and the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to wet the wall before installation). Once filled, press, level, and secure with nails into the bar.

To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during the polymerization process, tape the joint at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard you try to adjust the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small ones, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in foam-type tubes and placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the gap, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wiped carefully - completely clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from the top - right away - horizontal panel slopes, then joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to be sealed are the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be pulled into the seam - this is if the cracks are large. Go through all these places a second time using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are any roughness or unevenness, they can be smoothed out with fine-grain sandpaper, folded in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is still wet, otherwise you may scratch the plastic.

That's it, the plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveling with the surface of the walls. After this, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed propylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are pressed through quite easily, to same thing If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then the jumpers are visible in the light. In sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and there are no jumpers even for clearance.

Photo report 2: installing plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, fasten wooden block. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face is equal to the installation angle of the slope. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless there is a circular saw with adjustable angle.

We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. Another point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.

At the top when joining the vertical and horizontal profiles you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.

Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.

Width plastic panel there should be more than a slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner— we carry it out from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little. Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the cracks between the slope and the wall, white nails are glued onto liquid nails. plastic corner. The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press it, moving your hand along it, hold it for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.

Video

For an option for installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame, see this video.

Video version of installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.

And another way in this video. Here pay attention to the finishing of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.