Deep impregnation primer. The best deep penetration primers according to builder reviews

It is difficult to name at least one type of finishing work that does not require a deep penetration primer, except perhaps compositions from the “2 in 1” or “3 in 1” series, which already include a primer component. The priming process solves several problems at once - improves adhesion, strengthens the base, holds the finishing lining, regulates the degree of absorbent component and increases the service life.

Name	Price, l/rub.	brief information
		Used for cellular concrete, wood, gas blocks. Penetrates up to 10 mm, consumption on average is 150 ml per square. Without smell. Dries in 2 hours.
		Acrylic, strengthening the base. Used for concrete, wood, exterior and interior work, wallpaper, ceramic and facade tiles, paints and varnish.
		On acrylic base only for interior work. Moisture-resistant, antiseptic, wear-resistant, gas-permeable, odorless. Can be used under paint, wallpaper, tiles, wood.
		Universal composition, including antibacterial and antiseptic additives. Recommended for all porous surfaces before painting and covering.
		Compatible with OLSTA paints and textured coatings for exterior use. It strengthens the base well, levels it and reduces paint consumption by 25-30%.
		For preparing dense surfaces for high-quality finishing. Creates a rough, sandpaper-like layer that greatly increases adhesion to the finish.
		One-component waterproofing mastic with the addition of siloxane. The composition improves the hydrophobic properties of aerated concrete, provides high vapor permeability, and evens out absorbency.
		Adhesive with the addition of quartz sand. For deep processing of aerated concrete indoors.
		Suitable for aerated concrete, foam concrete, plasterboard, heavy concrete. Can be used as a modifying additive for the preparation of concrete.
		Universal. Contains antiseptics and antibacterial additives. Suitable for all types of rooms, including those with high humidity.
		For pre-treatment and preparation for painting various surfaces from unevenly and highly absorbent wood species (pine, spruce).
		Protective impregnation of wood outside and inside. Eliminates rotting, mold, and destruction by woodworms.
		Epoxy primer 1 l + 0.2 l hardener. For active protection of metal and fiberglass from water, salts and chemicals.
		Levels the surface, fills the voids of cracks and chips, improves adhesion, and prevents the formation of corrosion.
		Intended for anti-corrosion protection(phosphating) of the car body.

Specifications

Any deep penetration primer includes 3 main components - water, acrylic resins and polymer components. Their proportion may be different, but the basic composition is similar, where resins are responsible for viscosity and adhesion, and polymers provide truly deep penetration.

Depending on the variety, the multicomponent composition may contain:

antiseptics (anti-fungal primer of deep penetration on concrete) - eliminate the appearance of mold and the development of fungal strains;
silicones (water-repellent) - for outdoor use to increase resistance to precipitation;
latex or acrylic - to increase adhesion and extend the service life of the finish coating.

Important! If the composition contains various components, the composition is called “universal” and can be used with equal success for finishing different substrates - wood, metal, concrete, brick, etc. Most often, Lakra and Volma use universal formulations.

The compositions are used on almost all surfaces, but this is especially necessary on highly absorbent, porous, crumbling and unstable substrates. Metal, for example, must be primed so that the paint applies evenly and does not roll off or crack in the future. Wood and concrete are very porous substrates, in the case of which the soil literally sticks together into a monolithic surface (film), and the paint and varnish coating lies neatly on top, without penetrating into deep capillaries.

Characteristics and composition requirements are regulated by GOST R 52020-2003 “Water-dispersion paint and varnish materials”, a certificate of conformity is required.

Each composition shows its own characteristics that must be taken into account when processing the base, including how long it takes for one or another option to dry. Below is a rating of the best deep penetration primers from different manufacturers. It was compiled based on customer reviews and assessments of professional builders, and also took into account the cost.

Concrete is the most popular building material, known for its density and strength. Along with such characteristics, it is also known for its porosity, which complicates its finishing, increases the consumption of materials and contributes to paint peeling. Deep-penetrating agents for concrete are water-soluble compositions based on polymers and latex, which penetrate deeply and bind together into a monolithic film. These qualities contribute to deep diffusion and strengthening of concrete.

Ceresit CT 17

A water-dispersible composition for strengthening the surface, binding dust particles and reducing the absorbency of concrete. Penetrates up to 10 mm. Convenient tinting - the composition is light yellow, thanks to which you can easily distinguish the treated surface from the untreated one.

Ceresit CT 17 10 l

Specifications:

Ceresit ST 17 contains no solvents; it can also be used for interior work. Most often used to work with cellular concrete, having the highest porosity. The price of a 10-liter container is 610 rubles.

It is characterized by increased penetrating and strengthening ability to all substrates, with the exception of metal. Can also be used as a primer for metal products, but only inside - the Optimist will not protect against corrosion. Contains antiseptic and silicone additives. Eliminates the appearance of mold.

Specifications:

It contains a color indicator - it is convenient during work; unpainted areas are clearly visible. Apply different ways, the main thing is that there are no “bald spots” left on the surface.

Prospectors

Suitable for exterior and interior finishing work in all rooms, including those with high humidity. Recommended for dense, poorly or highly moisture-absorbing substrates, fragile ones, plasterboard and foam-aerated concrete.

Specifications:

Kinds plastering works, requiring mandatory priming:

putty;
laying tiles of different formats and materials;
coloring;
wallpaper sticker;
applying decorative plaster, including “liquid wallpaper”;
laying parquet, carpet, linoleum.

Before application, the base must be prepared - debris, dust, paint and oil stains are removed.

For almost any type exterior finishing required preliminary preparation bases for improving adhesion to the finish coating, performing antiseptic, antibacterial and water-repellent tasks. This is very important when treating surfaces exposed to precipitation, sun rays and wind.

TEX 2 in 1

Designed for preparing concrete, plastered, plasterboard, brick and wooden surfaces before subsequent painting with water-dispersion paints, puttying, tiling, porcelain tiles, siding and other finishing materials. Penetrates up to 6 mm inside layers, strengthens the base, improves the adhesion of the coating to the surface, and evens out the absorbency of the substrate.

Specifications:

The versatility of the composition is explained by the inclusion of antibacterial and antiseptic components. Doesn't work on metal - won't protect against corrosion. Can be applied by anyone in a convenient way- roller, brush, spray. Reduces paint consumption by a third.

The primer reduces moisture absorption, which enhances the adhesion of the base and prevents cracking of the screed or leveling coating. It is recommended to use in conjunction with adhesive mixtures on cement based, self-leveling compounds. Used for treating surfaces such as: screeds and plasters made of cement-sand and gypsum compositions. Optimal for outdoor concrete work.

Specifications:

Can be used on previously painted acrylic paint surfaces. Not suitable if alkyd and oil enamels were previously used.

Used to strengthen and prepare weak, porous substrates for further facade finishing. Thanks to the active components, the primer composition penetrates into the pores of the base, impregnates and glues. After use working surface gains strength, low water consumption, uniformly high adhesion to plasters, leveling compounds and tile adhesives over the entire area.

Specifications:

Apply using standard methods. Although it does not contain solvents, it is of little use for interior work. The main purpose is the processing and preparation of the facade.

The basis of any finishing work, especially when it comes to such a porous material as aerated concrete. Its water absorption coefficient is simply enormous - reaching 35% of its own weight. Only if the primer is first applied, the coating will not crack, will not crumble, the paint will not roll off, but most importantly, the walls will not become wet and all the negative consequences associated with this will be eliminated.

Eskaro Aquastop Facade

A concentrated mixture with the addition of siloxane is a one-component waterproofing mastic intended for external and interior decoration foam and aerated concrete, gas silicate blocks. Fundamental difference from other primers - improving the hydrophobic properties of the surface and ensuring high vapor permeability. Otherwise it works in the same way - it evens out absorbency and reduces the consumption of finishing materials.

Eskaro Aquastop Facade

Specifications:

Presented in the form of a concentrate. Diluted with water in the following proportions:

1:5 - for wallpaper;
1:3 - before painting highly absorbent, porous surfaces;
1:4 - before painting surfaces with normal porosity.

It cannot be used undiluted - a high percentage of dry residue forms a slippery film to which no coating, especially paint, will “stick.”

Prepares aerated concrete surfaces for high-quality finishing. It does not penetrate deeply - a maximum of 4-5 mm, its purpose is slightly different - to increase the adhesive properties of the porous surface. After drying, a rough layer is formed, which has high adhesion to the applied layers of dry mixtures. Betocontact consumption is on average 0.25-0.4 kg/m2.

Specifications:

Objectively, the price for such a composition is very high, but reputation and brand largely justify such a tariff.

Polimin Super-Grunt AS-7

to strengthen the top layer of various materials, reduce the coefficient of water absorption, to improve the adhesion of the base to subsequent layers. Thanks to the small particle size of 0.3-0.1 microns, maximum penetration is achieved even on dense concrete blocks.

Polimin Super-Grunt AS-7

Specifications:

The composition is designed specifically for use on substrates with increased water absorption.

Necessary when processing wooden surfaces with a loose structure, which is typical for old wood. Due to this treatment, the surface is protected from moisture, fungus, rot, and mold.

Tikkurila Euro Primer

Water-borne reinforcing acrylic group for interior and exterior use. Suitable for use in dry and damp areas, including bathrooms and kitchens. Contains additives against mold and bacterial growth. Strengthens well wooden bases, including those with a loose structure.

Tikkurila Euro Primer

Specifications:

Used under paint and varnish. Supplied as a concentrate. For interior decoration, the composition is diluted in a ratio of 1:3 (1 part concentrate to 3 parts water). For external and heavily chalked surfaces, use undiluted.

Intended for processing wooden, stone, metal and cork coatings only inside. Penetrates very deeply - at least 10 mm, due to which it reliably protects the tree from bacteria, bugs, rotting and the destructive effects of moisture. In the line it is considered the best for highly absorbent surfaces.

Specifications:

It is mandatory to use for soft wood species - spruce, pine, as they absorb paint unevenly and the base turns out spotty. Apply with a brush or a special brush. One liter is enough to process 16 squares. Once dry, intermediate sanding with a random orbital sander, machine or cloth is required until no excess remains on the surface. Only after this can varnish or paint be applied.

Made on the basis of alkyd resin and organic solvents. It is used for external and internal work to protect wood - floor coverings, furniture, walls that are not in contact with the ground, from all negative factors - bacteria, fungi, insects.

Specifications:

Shake thoroughly before application. Apply in the usual way. It is diluted with white spirit, so the room must be thoroughly ventilated during operation.

In auto repair, to prepare the body, a mandatory stage of work is priming. As a rule, this is a resin-based composition and chemical reagents, creating a thin film on the metal surface that is resistant to mechanical damage, reagents and prevents the formation of corrosion.

All types of primers can be divided into 3 groups:

epoxy;
acrylic;
acidic.

Epoxy They work only with metal and form a dense film during application and drying. It protects against damage, fills small chips and repels water.

Acrylic used for all types of surfaces - metal, plastic, alloys, etc. Their task is to level the surface, fill shallow scratches and chips, increase adhesion and protect against corrosion.

Acidic- a basic composition that prevents the destruction of the body from chemicals and salts. Cannot be used as a base for painting; application of epoxy or acrylic primer.

APP 2K Grund EP

Two-component epoxy primer containing 2K zinc phosphate. Used to protect metal, aluminum, steel and fiberglass from aggressive chemical environments in winter time. It is applied both as an adhesive coating and as an insulator for thermoplastic substrates.

Before application, the surface must be degreased and treated with abrasive (P240). The main composition is mixed with the hardener in a ratio of 1: 5 by weight. Viability 7 hours.

Acrylic two-component product is used as a high-density filler for repairing individual areas in concentrated form and as a filler for repairing large surfaces (diluted in a ratio of 5:1 with the addition of 10% thinner).

Forms a thick layer that fills unevenness, cracks, pores and chips. It has good covering ability and can be dried in air, in a chamber or using infrared drying.

Anti-corrosion acid coating designed to protect the metal body and all elements of the car made of aluminum, steel, metal from chemical components and salts used as road reagents.

It cannot be used as an independent composition before painting, only as a base for epoxy or acrylic primer, after which the body is sanded and painted. Diluted with hardener 1:1, applied in 2 layers.

VIDEO: Primer: types, mistakes, how do sellers deceive? Secrets of materials and advice from a professional

Wallpaper primer is one of the essential elements repair. Many craftsmen ignore the need to prime the walls, moving directly to finishing. However, in practice, neglecting this stage negatively affects the result and service life of the wallpaper.

Why prime walls - let's trust the experience of a pro

If for liquid wallpaper If a primer containing quartz dust is used, then before using it you should first level the walls with an acrylic composition. This way you will be protected from roughness and tears, and the material will lie more evenly on the prepared surface. To summarize, it can be noted that liquid wallpaper also needs a primer. Moreover, to apply this type of finish, it is worth monitoring the color and consistency of the impregnation. Otherwise, you may ruin the appearance of the surface.

Why not everyone uses impregnation - let's weigh the pros and cons

Ignoring the need to use soil is primarily explained by a reluctance to spend money. Plus, most manufacturers of adhesive compositions guarantee high-quality adhesion of wallpaper to their products. In fact, the use of a primer is not always considered a necessary measure.

Firstly, you don’t have to use impregnation when performing temporary home repairs, or when the wallpaper itself is not initially designed for long-term use. Secondly, you don’t have to use primer if you want to hang light paper wallpaper. At the same time, the primer significantly increases the adhesion of materials. As a result of its use, the finish will be fixed to the base faster and more reliably. Impregnation easily and quickly penetrates even the smallest pores of the wall, thereby preparing perfectly flat surface for applying glue.

The primer strengthens the surface of the base, improves adhesion to the finishing coating, and also reduces the consumption of building materials. There are mixtures that have antiseptic and moisture-resistant characteristics. The vapor permeability of the material is completely preserved. Primers are used not only for interior finishing of floors, walls or ceilings, but also for external works. They can cover any material that can absorb liquid (plasterboard, brick, wood, aerated concrete).

Purpose and composition

Primer mixtures must be used before:

applying paint,
wallpapering the walls,
laying tiles,
plastering works,
parquet or linoleum flooring.

A universal look is also suitable for treating a brick wall or concrete ceiling, but still, it is better to choose taking into account the finishing coating so that it really holds up well. The composition of deep-penetrating primers is basically the same, the only difference is in the additional components. Almost all contain water; there are rarely concentrates that require dilution (the proportions depend on the manufacturer). The main component that strengthens the surface of the material is acrylic resin, and various polymer additives make deeper level penetration. A primer mixture containing a fungicide has antiseptic properties. C latex is used for surfaces with a small number and size of pores to increase adhesion. Mixtures with silicone make the material water-repellent. It is recommended to work with all types at temperatures from 5 to 35 °C.

Operating principle and consumption rate

After application, the deep penetration primer is absorbed into the material. The depth of impregnation is influenced by its characteristics and the condition of the surface being treated, but generally it ranges from 1 to 10 mm. As soon as all the water has evaporated, the resin particles will stick together, thereby forming a single layer. The time for complete drying is influenced by the composition of the water dispersion, environmental conditions and the structure of the surface being treated.

The primer consumption per 1 m2 also depends on the characteristics of the material and its condition. At the same time, this amount varies among different manufacturers, for example, Tiefengrund from Knauf has 70–100 ml/m2, and Grunt from Dufa has 100–200 ml/m2. Russian soils have similar properties, but you can buy them at a lower price (10–25%).

Overview of types of deep penetration primers

All primer mixtures are divided according to composition and area of application:

acrylic - the most popular, well suited for both brick and drywall,
alkyd - used purely for coating metal and wood,
epoxy - protect the metal from oxidation and significantly increase the adhesion of concrete surfaces,
shellac - prevent the resin from escaping from the wood,
silicate - suitable for processing brick (silicate, aerated concrete, gas silicate) and plaster (external),
aluminum - protect wood from high humidity.

To choose the right primer, it is necessary to take into account not only the condition of the surface being treated, but also the composition of the finishing layer, the characteristics of the room and operating conditions. It is very good if the primer mixture and finishing material produced by the same company.

Deep penetration primers are often used in rooms with high humidity - in the bathroom or kitchen. Due to water, mold appears on the ceiling and in the corners, which ultimately deteriorates the appearance and peels off the coating. For such conditions, VGT VD-AK-0301 with an antiseptic is perfect, according to affordable price(100 rubles per 1 liter). The main thing is to thoroughly clean the surface of contamination with special products (containing chlorine) before applying the mixture. It should be coated with a primer composition at least 2-3 times, and it must include fungicides so that the ceiling does not turn black from mold.

Before choosing and purchasing a primer for the floor, you need to carefully examine its condition, because this part of the room is subject to loads more than others. Therefore, it is best to use a deep penetration mixture, as it provides maximum protection. Such a floor will perfectly withstand both static and dynamic loads, such as the movement of a transport machine. After application, the composition must dry completely and become stronger, only then further repairs can be made.

If the floor is concrete, then a deep penetration primer is better than others, because it makes the surface more durable and significantly reduces the cost of finishing material, especially if it is paint. Tiefengrund from Knauf will cope well with this; Ceresit CT 17 also has many positive reviews. If the concrete floor has already been painted or for some other reason has poor moisture absorption, then you should choose a composition with high adhesive properties.

If it is coated with deeply penetrating mixtures, it will last for many years, while any finishing materials will fit perfectly and last a long time. High quality primer will strengthen the entire sheet and significantly reduce moisture absorption, protect against mold and pathogenic bacteria. Since drywall quickly absorbs water dispersion, it is recommended to choose quick-drying products.

The primer is applied with a roller, brush or spray; the main thing is that all sheets must be perfectly clean so that it is absorbed evenly and as deeply as possible. The entire surface of the drywall, as well as joints and fastening points, are processed. After covering all the seams, it is primed again before wallpapering or painting. If you miss even one area, the paint will peel off or the wallpaper will peel off. Work is carried out only with protective equipment: masks, goggles, gloves.

Table of prices and consumption of deep penetration primer:

Which deep penetration primer is best to choose?
Features of choosing a primer for brick, wood, aerated concrete and other materials. Why is it necessary to use protective compounds?

FOR LOOSE SURFACES

The primer is designed to strengthen weak, loose, crumbling bases, porous, dusty and chalking surfaces, and improve the adhesion of the base to finishing materials.

Application area:

The primer is used to strengthen highly absorbent loose substrates: plasters, bricks, asbestos cement, foam concrete, gypsum, particle boards and plasterboards, concrete. Used to prepare surfaces before gluing ceramic tiles, plastering, puttying, painting, gluing wallpaper various types. Can be used as an additive to solutions of sand-cement compositions to impart greater strength and ductility.

Has high adhesive and penetrating ability
Impregnates and strengthens crumbling and loose substrates to a depth of 10 cm
Cures quickly after application
Significantly improves the adhesion of finishing materials to loose substrates
Does not isolate water vapor indoors, the surface “breathes”
Prevents mold growth
Significantly reduces the consumption of subsequent coatings
Manufactured in accordance with European standards
Does not contain organic solvents
Environmentally friendly, odorless material
Can be produced in frost-resistant modification down to -45 C

Preparing the base:

The surface should be dried and cleaned of dust and dirt, and other substances that prevent the material from penetrating deep into the base (including fats, oil, wax, bitumen, etc.). Easily peeling layers must be completely removed mechanically.

Application method:

Apply the primer using a brush, roller, or sprayer. Work according to the “wet on wet” principle. The 2nd layer of primer is applied immediately to the wet 1st layer. Do not allow excess soil on the surface to avoid “glazing”. To strengthen weak, crumbling surfaces, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:2 – 1:3, for priming durable dusty surfaces (for example, drywall), dilute in a ratio of 1:4 –1:5. Subsequent work should be carried out only after the surface has completely dried. Stir before use. Work at air and surface temperatures not lower than +5°C. Do not treat frozen surfaces.

*A trial application of primer to the surface is necessary to determine the optimal degree of dilution, since the absorbency of various surfaces depends on their structure.

Instrument care:

Immediately after finishing work, rinse tools with plenty of water. Dried primer can be removed with an organic solvent.

Precautionary measures:

In case of contact with eyes, rinse with water. In case of contact with skin, rinse with water or clean with a damp cloth. Dispose of as household waste. Fire and explosion-proof material.

1 l up to 10 sq.m. single layer coating. The exact consumption depends on the absorbency and structure of the base.

Drying time:

After 1-2 hours at t +25° C and humidity 65%.

Storage conditions:

Keep out of the reach of children. at temperatures above 0°C in a tightly closed container, do not allow freezing. Attention! Store the diluted concentrate for no more than 1 month.

Best before date:

1 year from date of manufacture

Thin-layer acrylic binder, modifying additives, antiseptic, water.

Deep penetration strengthening primer
Monolith – universal acrylic primers with deep penetration for loose surfaces

To increase the service life of the coating, before laying tiles, wallpapering, plastering or painting the walls, you need to thoroughly prepare the surface. A high-quality base for performing various works is called a primer. It is also called a primer - a strengthening primer is a type of primer.

When is priming required?

Primer coating of the surface has recently become part of the renovation. For a long time, wallpaper glue, diluted paint, and PVA glue were simply applied as a priming material. On modern market building materials The choice of primers is huge. Their tasks are very diverse:

protect surfaces from corrosion,
give an insulating effect,
improve the adhesion of paint layers to the base.

Primers are distinguished by type and purpose. The depth of their penetration into the base, the strengthening of this base and the quality of adhesion of the subsequently applied material to the surface depend on this. The use of priming materials reduces paint consumption, which allows significant savings, promotes uniform application of paint and glue, and protects surfaces from fungus and mold.

Features of choice

To choose the right primer, you need to know the type of surface being treated, the characteristics of the given room, and the properties of the material that you plan to subsequently apply. Based on their properties, primer coatings are divided into deep penetration primers and strengthening primers.

Deep penetration soils can saturate the base up to 10 cm deep. This is achieved using components whose components are ten times smaller in size than those of strengthening primers. Strengthening primer mixtures work closer to surface layers grounds.

The strengthening primer has an effect on the material similar to deep penetration primers, but its composition differs in a large amount of adhesive. It glues loose particles of surfaces that tend to crumble.

Strengthening primer can be distinguished by the appearance of the resulting coating. It leaves a noticeable varnish film.

Acrylic as a base for primer

The best known among strengthening primers is acrylic primer. This is a water-dispersion primer containing small particles of artificial resins. It does not contain solvents or plasticizers. It does not wash off, has no color and dries quickly.

deep penetration into the treated base,
the coated surface “breathes”, can allow steam to pass through,
fireproof,
glues dust and holds it together,
has low consumption, allows you to save paint.

Due to the fact that soil materials can be used for interior and exterior work, they are considered universal.

Application of acrylic primer:

Used for processing seamless floors and finished products. Compatible with plasterboard, cement-fiber, gypsum fiber boards.
When used on gypsum structures, it gives them moisture-proof properties.
It is used for treating substrates coated with lime, lime-cement and lime-gypsum plasters, as a primer before applying paint, wallpapering and laying tiles.
Used for deep priming of plaster before painting.

The primer coating is traditionally applied with a brush to the walls and floor; for the ceiling, a roller is used. Work is carried out at a temperature not lower than +5°C. After completing the work, all materials used are washed with plenty of water. Mechanical tools must be used to remove dried mixture.

Safety regulations

When performing work, it is necessary to ventilate the premises. In case of contact with eyes, rinse them immediately with water. The storage method is usual: places inaccessible to children. The container is classified as household waste and is disposed of in the standard way.

Storage and movement

Move and store in sealed containers from the manufacturer at temperatures up to +40°C.

If the primer is frost-resistant, then short-term storage, no more than one month, is allowed at temperatures not lower than –30°C. Primers can withstand five freezing cycles. It is necessary to defrost the primer naturally at room temperature. The primer retains its properties for 24 months from the date indicated on the box.

Tips for choosing the right primer

In order to prevent cracks, peeling of paint and putty, and wallpaper from coming off on the coated surface during operation, you need to choose the right primer, which should ensure reliable adhesion of the base and finishing material.

Below are some criteria that influence the choice:

The presence of one base for the primer and finishing material will subsequently ensure good performance characteristics coverings.
The extent to which the treated surface is capable of absorbing the primer is taken into account when selecting a primer.
Strengthening primer is applied to substrates that do not need to be treated. Treating the entire surface with a deep penetration primer will cost more.
If the ceiling is used in conditions of high humidity, it is necessary to use special universal primer coatings that protect against mold.

The leaders in the production of primer coatings are companies such as Knauf, Ceresit, Primer. The process of applying a primer coating is easy and does not require special skills.

How to choose a strengthening primer?
Strengthening primer is used on surfaces that are prone to crumbling. A high-quality primer mixture will protect the surface well and increase adhesion for better application decorative covering.

Well-known “diseases” of plaster are peeling and cracking, and if the second depends on correctly selected components and drying conditions, then the first can be prevented by such a “medicine” as priming walls for plaster. Without knowing the specifics of wall finishing, you can wonder for a long time why a primer is needed if plaster mixture and itself has sufficient viscosity. Turns out, Preliminary processing The surface for subsequent plastering is not only needed, it is extremely necessary to increase the adhesion of the coating to a particular wall material.

Priming walls for plaster, why is it used?

It must be said that despite the fact that the plaster is very similar in its composition to putty (there is a noticeable difference in the grain size and fillers), the adhesion of the latter is much better, which allows you not only to spread it with the thinnest layer, but also to polish it by sanding. With plaster, this number will not pass while it is in its raw form, its viscosity is quite high, but over time, the wall covering may peel off in large areas.

This is due to the rapid absorption of moisture from the finishing mixture by the material making up the surface of the wall, as a result of which in some places the dehydrated composition does not have time to set. Therefore, after thoroughly cleaning the walls, it is advisable to generously treat them with a special compound - a primer, using a roller or paint brush. There are different types this finishing composition, differing from each other by the result of surface treatment.

Thus, one primer for plaster can penetrate deeply into the thickness of concrete, providing it additional protection from dampness and at the same time increasing the adhesion of the surface, another mixture, once on the wood, acts as an antiseptic. For the most part, priming walls under plaster, regardless of composition, stabilizes the porosity of the substrate for wall covering materials, allowing the plaster to be applied in an even layer. That is why any finishing work, especially on complex surfaces, should begin with priming the prepared surfaces.

There are primer primers used for pre-impregnation, as well as compounds to ensure adhesion between layers of the same coating.

For what surfaces is plaster primer used?

Beautiful, smooth walls can be achieved not only in cases where they are made of tongue-and-groove slabs or if plasterboard was used, an excellent result can be achieved with the help of simple plaster, and if it is also a decorative mixture, no further finishing is needed. However, not every material from which a wall is made is ready for plastering, and primer for plastering is not the composition on which you should skimp.

You should stock up on different types of soil in advance if you used different wall materials in your premises. What compositions and what surfaces can and should be coated:

loose (porous) or unreliable surfaces - strengthening soil;
freshly plastered surface, asbestos cement walls - deeply penetrating primer;
metal structures, cleaned and with traces of corrosion - anti-corrosion primer;
lumber and other wooden surfaces - antiseptic impregnation;
surfaces with household stains of organic and inorganic origin - anti-stain primer.

Any of the above substrates must be primed before plastering the walls. In particular, loose and porous surfaces include concrete and brick. Freshly laid plaster, primer and putty, which have already been applied before application, still require additional priming if wallpaper is to be glued on top. There is no need to additionally treat the following surfaces:

Primer for plaster and tiles – treatment if necessary

Wallpaper can be glued to bare concrete only in exceptional cases, for example, if it has a high density and the walls are fairly smooth, which is generally rare. Therefore, plastering the walls before gluing them is a completely normal step. repair work, which can only be avoided with the help of drywall. However, and having achieved ideal smoothness of the walls in the room, you should not rush and measure out the wallpaper; a primer on the plaster will be useful.

For this purpose the composition is used general purpose, there is no need to look for deep penetration liquids. When treating a plastered surface, on the contrary, try not to moisten it too much to prevent the finishing layers from getting wet. Thus, you will use two different types of liquids: a primer before plastering and after it.

There are also special compositions for coating ceramic tiles; they may be needed if you suddenly decide to stick glass wallpaper on the walls in the kitchen without removing the previous finish. This type of primer is intended for surfaces that do not absorb water, which means it can be used, if necessary, for glass or laminate. Although, it's hard to imagine that you'll ever need to wallpaper glass.

What kind of primer should the walls be used for plastering? Video

The wall covering in the living room, where the plasma screen hangs for watching videos, will be smooth and reliable if you used a wall primer for plaster.

Priming walls before plastering - nuances that everyone needs to know

This time I decided to devote an article to such an important topic as priming walls before plastering. The durability of the finish largely depends on this procedure. Therefore, next we will look at what and in what cases the walls should be primed, and how to do it correctly.

Is primer necessary at all?

Many beginners mistakenly believe that the primer's job is simply to improve the adhesion of plaster to smooth surfaces such as concrete. Therefore, they doubt whether it is necessary to prime the walls before plastering if the base, for example, is brick?

So that you can answer this question yourself, below I will talk about all the functions that primer performs, in addition to improving adhesion:

strengthens the surface by gluing dust, grains of sand, loose pores, etc., thereby preventing its delamination;

Lack of soil under the plaster can cause it to swell

ensures uniform absorption of plaster into the surface of the base;
prevents the appearance of mold and also protects them from other biological influences, thanks to the content of antiseptic compounds;

The primer will prevent the appearance of mold

prevents the appearance of salt stains on the surface.

To summarize all of the above, primer increases the durability of the finish, regardless of the type of base. I hope that now you will not think about whether it is necessary to prime a brick wall before plastering.

Soil selection

Before you begin priming, it is extremely important to choose the right primer. Let's figure out what primers exist and what primer to use before plastering the walls.

So, on sale you can find the following compositions intended for priming:

Universal primer

The name of these primers speaks for itself - they are universal. They can be applied to any type of wall, except wood and metal.

Universal compositions have all the functions necessary for a primer:

increase adhesion;
strengthen the foundation;
have an antiseptic effect.

Universal primer for walls under plaster Dufa Putzgrund 10l

It should be noted that universal primers are performed on water based, due to which they have the following properties:

Therefore, these types of soils are most often used before plastering.

Scheme of action of deep penetration soil

Deep penetration

Deep penetration compositions are capable of penetrating into the porous structure to a great depth (up to 10 cm), while they glue the pores together. Thus, the main task of a deep penetration primer is to strengthen the surface of the walls.

This composition can be used if the surface of the walls, for example, is shingles covered with clay. You will also need a deep penetration primer if you plan to apply new plaster on an old layer of plaster that is “dusty” and crumbling.

Deep penetration primer Perfekta “Expert” 5l

Deep penetration compositions, like universal primers, are made on a water basis, so they have the same advantages - lack of odor and high drying speed.

Adhesive primer allows you to apply plaster even on tiles

Adhesive

As you might guess, these compounds are designed to improve adhesion between materials. Therefore, they should be used on smooth surfaces that have poor adhesion, such as concrete, old paint or even tiles.

The principle of operation of adhesive primers is based on the fact that they impart some roughness to the surface due to the presence of quartz sand and other abrasives in the composition. Thus, after treatment with an adhesive primer, smooth surfaces feel like sandpaper to the touch. As a result, plaster, putty and other coatings adhere well to them.

Operating principle of adhesive primer

It should be noted that adhesive primers are both water-based and organic solvent-based. The latter contain alkyd resins. They can be used to treat wooden walls.

Adhesive primer for wall plaster Tikkurila Otex

Priming technology

So, we figured out how to prime the walls. Now let's get acquainted with the technology of wall processing.

This procedure can be roughly divided into several stages:

Stages of priming walls for plaster

Preparing primer and tools

First of all, you need to decide on the amount of soil. To do this, you need to know the square footage of the walls and the composition consumption.

Consumption depends on the surface of the walls and the type of primer itself. Therefore, manufacturers usually indicate this parameter on the packaging.

Consumption of adhesive primers from different manufacturers

Also, don't forget to add 10-15 percent margin. When you buy back-to-back soil, you most likely won’t have enough.

Long nap paint roller

In addition to the primer itself, you also need to prepare the following equipment:

paint roller – the choice of roller depends on the type of surface you will be treating. So for brick walls It is better to use a roller with long or medium pile. Concrete walls can be treated with a foam rubber or velor roller;
roller cuvette;

In the photo - a cuvette for a roller

paint brush – will be needed for treating hard-to-reach areas.

Removing old plaster with a hammer drill

Preparing the walls

You need to start working with your own hands by preparing the walls. This procedure is carried out as follows:

If the wall is not prepared for plastering, you need to get rid of the old coating. To remove plaster, you can use a hammer drill with an appropriate attachment.

It should be noted that you can only partially clean the walls of old plaster, i.e. remove only those areas that are peeling off. In this case, be sure to “grab” a few centimeters of plaster around the perimeter, which holds well;

The walls need to be cleaned of dust with a brush

then the walls must be cleaned of dust using a brush or even a vacuum cleaner;
Walls cleared of dust should be wiped with a damp cloth and dried.

This completes the preparation.

Padding

Instructions for priming walls look like this:

First of all, you need to prepare the primer by reading the instructions for use on the package. If the composition is ready for use, you just need to shake it thoroughly.

Only clean water can be added to the primer.

Some primers are sold concentrated and therefore require dilution before use. In this case, add water to the soil in the proportion indicated on the package;

Pour the primer into the cuvette

Next, pour the primer into the special compartment of the tray. The rolling platform should not be covered with liquid;
then dip the roller into the soil and roll it lightly on the site so that excess liquid drips off;

Wet the roller in primer

Now roller the wall. Roll it out so that the soil lays down in an even thin layer. There should be no streaks or areas with large accumulations of liquid on the walls.

Apply primer in an even, thin layer

Treat hard-to-reach areas with a primer using a paint brush;
After this you need to wait for the soil to dry. IN normal conditions, i.e. at a temperature of 20-25 degrees, it will take 3-4 hours to dry. If the room is cold, drying may take 12 hours or more;
After the walls have dried, the primer must be reapplied according to the same scheme.

If it turns out that you do not have enough soil, you can increase its amount by adding water. The only thing is, do not add water in the amount of one part to two parts of soil.

Now wait for the second layer to dry. To make sure the priming is done properly, run your hand over the wall. If your hand remains clean, you can safely begin applying plaster.

Priming walls before plastering: what compositions to use for brick surfaces, video, photo

How to choose the right primer for different surfaces

The use of primer mixtures during repairs is quite justified, because any finishing material must adhere to the base very firmly and reliably. A primer is used for this, and this article will help you choose which one for the walls and flow.

Types of modern primer

Modern manufacturers offer a huge number of primer mixtures. Choose required types Primers for concrete, plaster, putty are not always easy. For this purpose, you must first of all know the varieties. You cannot use one type of primer for both paint and wallpaper.

types of primer

Depending on the area of application, types of primers for walls and ceilings are divided into the following groups:

Alkyd: used only for wooden surfaces and metal structures;
Acrylic: have universal properties and are therefore suitable for different surfaces. Primers from this group penetrate 1 cm deep. This property allows the use of acrylic primers for deep impregnation grounds;
Aluminum: used only for wood. With their help, the wood is completely isolated from moisture, thereby minimizing the occurrence of such unpleasant phenomena as mold or mildew;
Polyvinyl acetate: used only when using paint of a special composition for priming concrete, wood, metal, plaster;
Shellac: helps prevent wood from releasing resin and is therefore used as a type of primer for ceilings and walls;
Epoxy: suitable for deep impregnation of metal and concrete surfaces. Their main advantage is corrosion protection and sufficiently strong adhesion.

Based on the classification presented above, before choosing a primer for walls, it is necessary to determine the material of the surface to be primed and only then purchase the mixture.

Tip: when choosing a primer, pay attention to the manufacturer, price and technical specifications. The deeper the level of soil penetration into the base, the better it is for any purpose.

All about acrylic primer

The most common primer you can choose in different cases is acrylic. It is universal and makes the final finish high quality and durable. In turn, the types of acrylic primers also have their own classification and, depending on the conditions of use and purpose of the primer, are divided into:

1. Universal: used on all surfaces and in all conditions. This primer is equally suitable for both interior and exterior finishing work. If you don’t know how to choose a primer for wallpaper, what to use for subsequent tiling or just painting, take a universal one. The solution of this mixture is slightly cloudy, almost colorless. Special place Among the wide range of universal acrylic primers, primer-paint is very popular today. Its use helps solve several problems at the same time: securely fasten surfaces, get rid of the possible appearance of mold and fungal bacteria, and apply a layer of paint. The composition is white and the surface is not only primed, but also painted.

Tip: you can buy primer-paint at any store. You can achieve the desired color by adding dye to the soil. For example, after priming the wall is planned to be painted Blue colour. Add blue dye and the first layer of paint is ready.

2. Types of deep penetration primers have all the characteristic qualities of acrylic primers. However, primers of this type penetrate much deeper into the surface being treated, smoothing it, thereby bonding the base more strongly.

The absorption length reaches 1 cm. In the question of whether to choose a deep penetration primer or a regular universal primer, primacy should be given to the first group. The smoothing effect makes the surface perfectly smooth, as small particles, sand and dust stick together. This is an excellent option for priming walls under wallpaper, plaster and even tiles.

3. Adhesive: the composition contains a quartz impurity, which makes the surface a little rough, which, in turn, glues heavy finishing materials much stronger. This is a good solution when you don’t know what to prime the walls with before plastering.

Methods of applying primer: when and how to do it

The method of applying primer is no fundamentally different from the methods of applying other finishing materials. The surface is cleaned, sanded, sanded and degreased if necessary. The question of how many times you need to prime the walls or ceiling requires an individual approach, but at least twice.

The following tools are used for application:

Roller.
Brush.
Pulvezer.

primer roller; brush;

In each specific case, the tool is selected individually. For example, applying a primer to brick surface It’s better to use a brush, but on a flat ceiling or drywall - with a roller. A spray bottle is used less often, since it is not easy to clean the entire room after using it.

Ceiling primer

When starting to repair the ceiling on your own, you need to study information on how to properly prime the ceiling. Indeed, despite the apparent simplicity of the work, there are certain rules:

Having determined what to prime the ceiling with, try to do it evenly. Incorrect distribution will be immediately visible after painting. The area where the primer is applied thicker will be darker than the entire surface.
Before priming the ceiling before painting, choose the direction in which the fastening material will be applied. With one layer of primer, this is done along the room, perpendicular to the wall with the window. When applied in two layers, the first layer goes parallel to the wall with the window, the second – perpendicular to it.

Primer of walls

It is necessary to prime the walls in any case. Another question is what is the best way to prime the walls, but more on that later. Before priming, the surface requires mandatory preparation: it is necessary to remove the old coating, smooth out uneven areas, fill cracks, remove dust and dirt.

When working, you should adhere to technology, and not do everything in haste. The first coat of primer must be dry before a second coat can be applied. It must be distributed evenly. Special attention It’s worth focusing on the moment when you need to prime the walls for heavy wallpaper. In such cases, you cannot use wallpaper glue as a primer (as many people advise).

Of course, one might argue, why do you need to prime the walls if they will be sealed anyway? First of all, the wallpaper will hold tighter and will not bubble when glued. And in the future, no dirty tricks in the form of mold or mildew will appear on such walls.

How and what to prime walls for painting

Priming the walls is mandatory, and when asked what to prime the walls with before painting, we can safely say - a universal primer. It has all the necessary properties and is suitable for different situations.

Very often you have to decide whether to prime before painting? Some people think not: when the primer mixture dries, it leaves streaks that stand out clearly after painting. Dust and dirt can be removed with a vacuum cleaner. Others, on the contrary, argue that this must be done. Here you will have to decide for yourself. If you want a practical repair, prime it; if you want to save money, don’t prime it.

Often the walls are made of plasterboard, as it is an affordable and practical material. Usually it is perfectly flat and, accordingly, many are interested in whether it is necessary to prime drywall? Yes, it is necessary, because the priming process not only levels the walls, but also serves as an excellent factor in the adhesion of the base to the finish.

In this case, again use a universal primer, performing the work in the following sequence:

Only after complete drying do they begin to paint the surface.

Tip: when working with primer, the room temperature should be between 5-20 degrees Celsius, air humidity up to 75% and no drafts.

How and what to prime walls for plaster

Plaster is used on brick, concrete or foam concrete surfaces. They, as a rule, have high looseness and absorbency, and the question of whether it is necessary to prime before plastering is beyond doubt. In these cases, choose a deep penetration primer. It not only perfectly adheres, but also has antiseptic properties.

It is necessary to prime in several layers before plastering. It is better to use a brush or roller. Each layer dries for about an hour and during this time it is necessary to protect the walls from dust and dirt. The temperature indicators of this type of primer are the same as the universal ones. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions and follow them.

Exactly the same requirements are presented when the question arises whether it is necessary to prime before puttying. Everything is the same, even more, because not a single finishing material will stick to a clean layer of putty.

Thus, to summarize all of the above, we must note the most important thing: it is necessary to prime surfaces, this must be done in accordance with the rules, choosing which primer to prime the ceiling or walls with.

How to choose the right primer for walls and ceilings, application methods

Many people are interested in whether it is necessary to prime surfaces during repairs. The priming process is mandatory and is used before painting, puttying, or plastering walls.

When planning to decorate walls, ceilings or floors, you want to do the work as practically as possible, even if the work surface looks old and porous. Masters can easily cope with this, since the secret of success is concentrated in the use special means for surface treatment. Let's look together at the purpose of deep penetration acrylic primer and the technology for its application.

Peculiarities

Acrylic primer deep penetration is a special material for surface treatment before finishing work, in finished form consistency similar to milk.

The color can be different: most often it is transparent, sometimes white, pinkish, light gray. This primer is one of the varieties of acrylic primer. She is not universal remedy, therefore, the purchase of material should be based strictly on the intended use of the drug.

Today, not a single type of finishing work can be done without such soil. The material is a little sticky, and if you don’t wash it off your hands right away, it’s difficult to remove.

Sold mainly in jars and cans. The volume depends on the manufacturer's standards. More often such compositions are produced in a volume of 10 liters.

If it gets into your eyes, rinse them immediately with plain water. Does not corrode the skin of the hands, depending on the base it can be environmentally friendly, odorless or with a slight specific aroma, which does not interfere with the workflow.

This material is sold in the form of a dry mixture and a ready-to-use solution. In the first case, it is a powder that must be diluted with water according to the instructions.

Use cool water: hot water will affect the performance of the building product. This is convenient, since such material is usually enough to treat the floor, walls and ceiling of a spacious room.

Leftovers can be stored for 12 months, tightly closing the lid and putting the raw materials in a dark place. It is unacceptable to store it in the cold. The shelf life of deep penetration acrylic primer is 2 years from the date of release. Experts do not recommend using it after the expiration date has expired.

Advantages and disadvantages

Deep penetration acrylic primer has a lot of advantages. This product strengthens the base, making its structure quite strong. This composition can be used for external and internal work. It is suitable for the most unreliable foundations, which outwardly do not inspire confidence in the success of the cladding. This primer has a high viscosity. Its convenience is water solubility.

Using acrylic primer allows you to save on quantity adhesive composition or paint: the treated surface no longer absorbs liquid in large quantities, so it does not dry out quickly and allows finishing work to be carried out carefully, without haste.

After treating dark surfaces with this primer, the paint applies evenly without unpainted areas, stripes or other defects. At the same time, the surface gloss is more pronounced. Regarding the remaining components of the finishing, it can be noted: the application of tile and wallpaper adhesive after applying the primer becomes more uniform, which simplifies the finishing.

Latex primer is inherently vapor permeable. Despite the fact that it penetrates deep into the base and strengthens even porous surfaces, microorganisms and mold will not appear on it. At the same time, the primer itself does not slow down the facing work after application: it dries quickly even at normal room temperature. Drying time may vary, as it depends on the type of solvent used (fast, slow, classic).

The disadvantage of acrylic primer is that it is somewhat inconvenient to dilute the concentrate, which not everyone likes. This is mainly complained about by beginners who are afraid to accurately recreate the desired consistency, which leads to increased soil consumption.

Despite the fact that primer can treat different type surfaces, not every composition is suitable for processing dark metals. Therefore use this tool when facing it is permissible only if desired type surfaces are in the list, marked on the package.

What is it for?

Acrylic (or latex) primer is suitable for surfaces different composition. The effect of the material is based on imparting high adhesion to the processed plane with the subsequent applied material. It is needed to ensure that the finish stays on the surface for as long as possible.

This soil not only treats upper layer bases for finishing: it penetrates to a depth of 5 to 10 cm into the plane on which it is applied.

The action is based on penetrating ability, which allows you to strengthen walls made by the developer in violation of technology. It's more common concrete walls or plaster, in which there is noticeably more sand than normal. Such surfaces crumble, which complicates the finishing process and can affect the final result. The action of acrylic primer allows you to penetrate deep into cracks and problem areas surfaces.

The material binds not only microcracks: it binds dust and forces all surface areas at risk of poor strength to hold as much as possible facing material. It doesn’t matter at all whether it’s wallpaper, ceramic, ceiling tiles or self-leveling floor. An interesting feature is the formation on the surface during the hardening process of a rough mesh, which levels the base, preparing it for subsequent processing.

Acrylic primer is suitable for treating cement-concrete screeds; it can be used to treat wooden, plastered surfaces, and limestone. It will glue together the smallest particles of the base and help prevent the formation of blue stains and rotting.

Application technology

Applying primer to the surface is easier than it seems at first glance.

When working you will need:

foam roller;
flat brush;
small flat brush;
gloves;
flat container for primer.

In the case of a dry concentrate, it is worth adding to this kit a container for diluting the material, which is diluted strictly in the proportions specified by the manufacturer (usually 1: 4).

Stirring is carried out until the composition becomes homogeneous. In this case, you may need a mask to prevent the dry composition from getting into your lungs.

After cooking necessary equipment and the primer itself, they begin to treat the surfaces. The soil is poured into a flat container, covering approximately 1/3 of the volume of the roller placed in it. You should not pour more: the solution will flow off the roller in large quantities, which is inconvenient when treating the surfaces of walls or ceilings. The roller is convenient because with its help the time spent on surface treatment is halved.

There is no need to fill the walls: The primer already has high penetrating ability. However, you shouldn’t save money either: the main thing is that there are no splashes when rolling the surface. Movements should not be sudden: this is especially true if the renovation of the room is partial. If soil gets on, say, wallpaper, stains may remain on it.

The solution is taken onto a roller and rolled onto the surface for further cladding. Since any work cannot do without processing the corners of joints and inconvenient places, the working tool is replaced with a brush of the required size. The roller cannot cope with neat processing of corners: usually in this case it is impossible to avoid drips on the walls.

The brush will allow you to avoid unnecessary consumption and make processing more accurate.

When all surfaces have been processed, you must immediately remove any remaining primer from the tools and containers. If you leave this until later, the foam and bristles of the brush will become oak. After they harden, the brushes and foam coat will have to be thrown away. During work, the material should be poured into the container little by little: it will not be possible to pour the remainder back into a common canister (they will contain tiny dust particles or microfragments of cement screed).

Prime the surface twice. Wherein reuse soil is possible only after the first layer has dried.

What to consider?

To ensure that the finishing work is not complicated due to the choice of the wrong primer or its incorrect application, it is worth considering several recommendations.