How to paint OSB plate on the facade

Technology frame house construction allows you to build comfortable housing quickly and inexpensively. External walls Such buildings are covered with OSB slabs, which, unfortunately for all developers, do not have the aesthetic appeal required for the facade. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase material for cladding the house, which leads to higher construction costs.

Manufacturers of paints and varnishes have taken into account the need of developers for finishing OSB boards and are offering their own solutions to this issue. Craftsmen who know how to create masterpieces from any material did not stand aside either. Thanks to these craftsmen, appeared creative solutions For exterior finishing frame house.

Oriented strand boards (OSB) consist of several layers of chips and shavings pressed and glued together. A feature of the manufacturing technology of these types of panels is that the chips in the layers are located in different directions. This provides the material with high bending strength and allows it to securely hold the fastener. On the outer layers of the panel, the chips are located along the surface, on the inner layers - across.

But despite the longitudinal direction of the wood component, the front side of the panel does not have the smoothness necessary for high-quality painting. Both sides of the OSB board are uneven and rough. This feature has its pros and cons. The advantage is that the lack of smoothness allows you to get a surface with a spectacular texture. The disadvantage is the need for additional processing of the slab various instruments and materials.

The market offers several brands of oriented strand panels: OSB-1, OSB-2, OSB-3 and OSB-4. The latter are intended for front finishing and have a fairly smooth and effective surface. But in construction frame houses OSB-3 is most often used, since it is cheaper and has all the necessary characteristics for building walls. However, the surface of OSB-3 boards needs to be improved.

OSB - oriented strand boards

Since this material is most popular among developers, all the finishing methods proposed below take into account the peculiarities of the surface of these panels and can be applied to products of other brands: OSB-1 and OSB-2.

Choosing a method for painting OSB boards

Transparent coatings

Painting is the most inexpensive way to give panels an aesthetic appeal. Many developers like the texture of the slabs, which they would like to preserve. Uneven surfaces of panels when dropped sun rays create a certain play of light and shadow. It is this effect that is most attractive in untreated OSB.

In order to preserve and enhance it, use transparent paint with an ultraviolet filter. For example, Cetol Filter 7 Plus. This composition is intended for exterior finishing wood and is made on the basis of alkyd resins. The coating is transparent and has a semi-matte finish. The paint contains a UV stabilizer and water repellents, providing reliable protection wood from environmental influences.

clear varnishes;
azure;
transparent impregnations for wood.

Glazes are the most effective, as they have the ability to emphasize the grain of wood and give the painted surface a stylish shade and silky shine. A wide selection of these compositions is offered by the manufacturer BELINKA, whose assortment includes the “Toplazur” line, which includes 66 colors and shades.

Transparent wood varnishes will add gloss to the surface of the slab. You can use oil-based, water-based or organic-based formulations. Reliably protects wood acrylic lacquer, and yacht will give it a beautiful shade. Inexpensive and practical solution– semi-matte transparent “Drevolak”, intended for coating untreated wood and brick. This composition is easily applied to OSB and fills all its unevenness.

Tinting OSB boards

To emphasize the texture of OSB, you can use stain. For getting the desired shade it is diluted either with water, or with a solvent or acetone.

Technique OSB staining stain is as follows:

apply paint using paint brush or spray gun;
give time to dry (when diluting the stain with a solvent or acetone, the drying time is 5-7 minutes);
Apply polyurethane primer to a dry painted surface and wait for it to dry.

To obtain the effect of artificial aging, use a patina of the desired color. After it dries, sand the slab with a soft foam sponge, which allows you to remove any remaining patina. After which the patinated panel is coated with transparent varnish.

Covering enamels

In order to completely hide the protrusions of chips, thick covering enamels and water-soluble paints are used. The choice is wide:

silicone;
alkyd;
pentaphthalic (forming a dense smooth film);
acrylic (water soluble);
latex.

Oil paints have the highest viscosity. Their advantage is that they are practically not absorbed into the slab. Therefore, paint consumption is relatively low. The disadvantage of these compositions is considered for a long time drying. But they have the main advantage: a durable covering layer and good adhesion to the surface, which is important when painting OSB. However, oil paints are not recommended for use external works due to their instability to moisture and ultraviolet radiation.

Alkyd paints meet all requirements for painting facades. These compositions form a thin polymer film on the treated surfaces, which is moisture resistant and does not change its color when exposed to sunlight. Alkyd enamels can withstand significant temperature changes, therefore they are recommended for use in regions with any climate.

Silicone paints- one of the most expensive. This is the main reason for their low popularity. This is despite the fact that silicone enamels fully comply with all the requirements for facade work. These paints have good resistance to mechanical impact, are characterized by crack resistance and moisture repellency. These compounds can be applied to OSB boards that have already been painted or whitewashed.

Latex paints have high moisture resistance, therefore they are best choice for regions with a maritime climate. Due to their excellent covering ability, they are not demanding on the quality of surfaces, which is especially important when finishing OSB boards. Facade latex paints can withstand a significant number of freeze-thaw cycles.

Optimal choice for painting OSB – acrylic facade paints. They are inexpensive and have a lot of advantages: moisture resistant, withstand sudden temperature changes, vapor permeable, resistant to UV rays (do not fade in the sun). Acrylic paints can be applied at any time of the year. But in winter the air temperature should not be lower than -20°C.

Fire protection of OSB boards

The OSB board burns with the release of caustic substances, including toxic hydrocyanic acid. In the event of a fire, smoke is the decisive factor for survival. Using Soppka paints, you can solve two important problems at once: painting the panel and increasing its fire resistance several times.

Soppka - experts in OSB protection

Soppka compositions and paints are designed specifically for finishing oriented strand boards, so the manufacturer takes into account all the features of the surfaces of this material. The company's products have excellent adhesion to OSB, which cannot be said about others fire retardant compounds. The service life of Soppka coatings is more than 15 years. Paints can withstand any environmental influences.

Conclusion

OSB can be painted with any high-quality facade paint intended for fire protection wooden surfaces. Good feedback about "Valtti Color Satin" from "Tikurilla". This enamel has excellent covering ability, does not change its color when exposed to sunlight, prevents wood from rotting, and has a noble matte finish.

If you decide to give the OSB surface ideal smoothness, you will need additional processing, including grinding, priming, impregnation with antiseptic. All these points have many nuances that you need to know about in order to receive desired result. Therefore, painting the slabs OSB is better consider on specific examples applications various options finishing of these panels.

Preparing OSB boards for painting

Before painting, the oriented strand panels are prepared. First of all, they need to be primed. It's not that much simple task, as it might seem at first glance. The fact is that the front surface of the new slabs is smooth and quite slippery, so the primer will collect in drops and flow down. For this reason, experts recommend not to waste time and money on priming new slabs, but to immediately begin filling or painting them.

Panels that have stood in the open air for some time lose the smoothness of their front side. The surface becomes rough and able to absorb primer. The composition is applied with a roller on a long handle. The optimal choice is the Ceresit ST17 primer, the quality of which has been tested by time.

Technique for painting OSB boards

When applying paint with a brush or roller, you may notice that some chips swell from moisture and rise. This happens regardless of the type of composition chosen. If it is needed budget solution finishing of the facade, you can ignore these small shortcomings.

But if you intend to complete all the work with the highest possible quality, you need to adhere to the following technique:

priming the panel;
installation of fiberglass mesh over the entire façade area;
puttying with a moisture-resistant and frost-resistant composition;
coloring.

When choosing elastic paints (for example, Descartes or Emarque), the puttying step can be skipped. These paints will fit perfectly on the mesh and cover it. After applying the second layer, the OSB will acquire a smooth, glossy surface.

OSB painting with artificial aging effect

This method of processing OSB panels allows you to preserve the surface texture while smoothing out the most noticeable chip protrusions. The end result is a smooth slab, on which its natural pattern is clearly visible. Using multi-layer dyeing with compositions of different colors and purposes, they provide two stylish effects at once: colored dyeing and artificial aging.

Tools and materials that will be required to complete the work

Stages of painting OSB boards

Step 1: Sanding the Panel

Smooth out uneven surfaces of the panel using a grinder and grinding wheel P180. To obtain the desired result, work with light pressure from the tool. The panels are passed over each section with an abrasive wheel no more than three times.

Step 2: Apply the first coat of primer

OSB boards are made using a special adhesive impregnation, which includes various resins, wax and paraffin. These substances are necessary to prevent the panel from delaminating and the formation of rot and mold in it.

A primer on the sanded OSB surface is needed to ensure that the resins and paraffin continue to remain inside the slab. At this stage of work, barrier primer FI M194 is used. It is applied using an airbrush or spray gun. Material consumption is within 50-60 g/m2. TO further work start in 1.5-2 hours, after the soil has completely dried.

Step 3. Applying pigment primer

At this stage of the work, the panel is covered with primer FL M042/CO2. This is a matte white composition that dries within 2.5-3 hours. The soil consumption should be at least 100 g/m2.

Step 4: Sanding the slab

Use a grinder with a P320 abrasive wheel. They only shoot upper layer pigment primer. The result should be a smooth whitish matte surface.

Step 5. Varnishing the slab

Acrylic varnish “Pearl” JW M120 is applied to the OSB so that the weight of the wet layer is 100-120 g/m2. In order to achieve this result, each section of the panel must be covered with 2-3 layers of varnish. Then wait for the coating to dry completely for an hour.

Step 6: Patination

At this stage of work, black patina GM M048 is applied to the panel. As before, an airbrush or spray gun is used for this purpose. The weight of the wet layer should be 60-80 g/m2. There should be no gaps in the panel from the previous white layer. The patina dries within 5-7 minutes.

Step 7: Sanding the Patina

Using light pressure, sand the panel with a P320 abrasive sponge. After such processing, the result should be a surface with a clear chip pattern, the main part of which white, and the spaces between the chips are black. This provides an artificial aging effect.

Step 8. Tinting the OSB board

Tinting is the stage as a result of which the slab acquires color. To perform this task, acrylic varnish is used. The color is chosen depending on how you want the facade of your house to look. Varnish consumption is within 100-120 g/m2. Drying time according to the manufacturer's instructions, but on average 1.5-2 hours.

It should be noted that as the varnish dries, its color will change due to the gradual acquisition of dullness. IN in this example JO 00M294 zero gloss varnish is used. If you want to give the façade of your home a glossy look, you can opt for compounds that provide this effect.

Technology of painting OSB with primer-paint

This method of painting oriented strand boards was developed by Holzer specifically for façade finishing. frame buildings. Therefore, the instructions offered by the manufacturer use exclusively its products.

(OSB) consist of composite material, made from crushed wood chips glued with various resins, adhesives and polymers. To protect the OSB board from moisture, it is impregnated with a composition that repels water or painted.

OSB boards come in different chemical composition impregnations, fillers and protective coatings, so they come in 4 types:

OSB – 1 – withstands minimal humidity in dry rooms, since there is practically no moisture-proof component in the boards;
OSB – 2 – withstands average indoor humidity;
OSB – 3 – withstands high background humidity indoors and accidental wetting;
OSB – 4 – can withstand high humidity inside and outside buildings.

Why do you need to paint slabs?

OSB board coating paint and varnish materials have their advantages:

Create with paint or varnish additional protection from moisture. Water will not be able to penetrate the structure of the slab - deformation will not occur inside and on the surface of the OSB.
Modern paints mask the texture of the slabs, so large chips are almost invisible.
Painting is not as labor-intensive as sheathing with decorative panels and costs less.

It is important to know. OSB is painted and then varnished only for interior work. From the outside, the slabs are protected using more serious methods due to significant climatic influences.

Which paint to choose for interior work?

You can paint with any material, taking into account its characteristics. Since they are glued together with resins and polymers, it is better to use solvent-soluble pigments for painting for maximum adhesion of the paint and the board when the pigments penetrate into the panel structure:

Coating oil paints consider the best option due to their high viscosity and slight absorption into the slab. The paint takes a long time to dry, but provides a high-quality and reliable protective layer.
Coating alkyd enamels or special alkyd paints for wood panels guarantees long service life due to deep penetration into the structure of the material. In this case, you can refuse to apply varnish on top of the paint. This allows you to reduce finishing costs.
You can use an acrylic water-dispersed composition, but then the slab may swell from exposure to the liquid.

If there is no need to cover the texture, then use impregnations, for example, Valtti Color Satin from Tikkurila. These products create a tonic protective film with a semi-gloss or matte texture.

Zinga electrically conductive metallic paint can be used for decorative purposes, provided the substrate is carefully prepared. To protect the panel from fire, use antipyretics designed for wooden coverings: Vuprotek, SPAS and their analogues.

How to prepare the surface of the slabs for painting?

The better the sheets are prepared, the better the adhesion of the paint or varnish to the base and the more durable the protective layer. There is no point in painting OSB panels before installation, since already installed sheathing is often touched up due to fitting, sanding, etc.

Using special tool pre-treatment performed in the following sequence:

Grinding

Sandpaper is used to thoroughly sand the OSB board to mask the recognizable texture and prevent primer and paint from penetrating into it.

It is important to know. OSB-3 boards should be sanded deeply and thoroughly to remove the outer wax-varnish coating.

Alignment

Get rid of irregularities and dimples in places where screws are attached using oil-adhesive putty mixtures. You should not fill the recesses between the slabs with the mixture; the seams will still appear after painting. Decorative strips will work better. Perfect flat surface obtained after sanding dried putty.

Primer

The easiest way to prime an OSB board is to coat it with a mixture of acrylic or acrylic-polyurethane water-based wood varnish in a ratio of 1:10. Apply thoroughly to ensure even coverage. An alternative is alkyd varnish diluted with white spirit rather than water.

Adhesive primers in the form of Aqua-Filler and its analogues can thoroughly isolate slabs from layers of paint. They will not allow leakage from the slab structure essential oils, and no stains will be visible under the light pigment of the paint.

Paint application and drying

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

The primed surface is painted around the perimeter with a brush, 2-3 layers of material are applied to the edges - it will quickly be absorbed. Next, use a roller to evenly distribute the composition over the fibers of the slab;
apply the composition with a roller thin layer on the unsanded side of the slab, laying the paint in one direction;
OSB panels are thoroughly dried, avoiding drafts and sudden changes in temperature;
after 8 hours, apply a second layer, maintaining or hiding the texture.

It is important to know. When coating with water-dispersed compositions, it is necessary to distribute them over the surface in equal quantities. Since the OSB board will swell anyway, this will happen evenly over the entire surface.

Exterior paint

The outside of OSB can be painted with alkyd, acrylic, oil and latex paints. OSB trims the façade and installs it internal partitions and floor covering. For the finishing coating, paints are used as the most accessible and inexpensive method of decorative cladding.

Alkyd paint

It contains a resin welded from a mixture of acids and vegetable oil. A thin but durable film will protect the surface from moisture after the alkyd paint has dried.

Pros:

low cost of paint;
a moisture-proofing layer is created;
tolerates direct sunlight and frost up to 30°C;
dries quickly;
no toxicity.

Minuses:

the paint is prone to fire, does not tolerate alkaline exposure, and smells unpleasant when applied and dries.

Advice: The alkyd composition should be applied to the surface of the OSB after thorough drying to avoid the appearance of peeling and bubbles.

Water-based paint

It is especially popular. It consists of water and acrylics - binding elements. When dry, the water evaporates and the protection from a reliable polymer layer remains.

Pros:

easy to use;
There are all kinds of colors;
is inexpensive;
is resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes;
high fire resistance;
is environmentally friendly;
none unpleasant odors;
service life – up to 10 years.

Adviсe:

do not store water-based paint in the cold, do not pour water into the jar, as it will render the paint composition unusable;
metallic paints (Polistil) are fireproof. In the event of a fire, they can release coked foam to stop further spread of fire.

Oil paints

Drying oil-based products are used less frequently due to toxicity, smudges during application, long drying time and fragility - it quickly crumbles and peels.

Latex paint

It is a type of water-emulsion with a binder - latex. The paint is characterized by elasticity and high strength to mechanical influences, moisture insulation, resistance to atmospheric influences, household chemicals. Environmentally safe, no unpleasant odors.

The facade is the calling card of any country house. Despite the huge selection of modern and proven facade finishing options, users of our portal are not afraid to experiment.

The experience of a FORUMHOUSE member with the nickname is interesting Victor Banev, who decided to ennoble old dacha, making a facade from OSB (or OSB, oriented - particle board) with further imitation of the half-timbered layout on them.

Durability of OSB

Usually, everyone who decides to do something like this is primarily concerned with the question - what will happen to the facade in 3-5 years if it is sheathed with OSB.

Some people think that the slabs will swell, because... OSB is not a finishing material intended for outdoor use. Some people believe that this cladding option is possible and, moreover, optimal from the point of view of reducing financial costs and the possibility of independent repetition.

Victor Banev User FORUMHOUSE

Whether or not to use OSB on the facade - opinions vary. I decided that the game was worth the candle in terms of speed, ease of installation and low cost of such a facade. I just note that the facade is made ofOSB is an economical option for thrifty summer residents. To decorate a permanent structure - a cottage - more weather-resistant materials should be used.

Looking ahead, let's say that the service life of the facade made of OSB boards has already entered its third year, and what it looks like is clearly demonstrated in the following photo.

Pie wall with OSB

The result is impressive, and now let's move on to practice. There is an old uninsulated dacha measuring 6x8 meters. External skin- “inch” board. On top of the boards is painted hardboard. Place of alteration - Leningrad region, i.e. an area with higher humidity than Moscow, with frequent rains, fogs and short summers.

It is required to insulate the building from the outside and make beautiful facade. The budget is minimal. This means: work without hired workers, using relatively inexpensive materials and technology that can be done by two people. The user’s train of thought when choosing methods for finishing the facade is also interesting.

Victor Banev

I don't like finishing the facade with siding. It's boring. Block house is too expensive. A well-proven option using DSP ( cement particle board) for further painting and imitation of half-timbered wood is also eliminated. Expensive and, due to their heavy weight, difficult to lift the sheets, much less mount them at a height. Sheathing it with clapboard is also not the same. But I, as they say, fell in love with half-timbered wood and began to think about how to bring this idea to life.

After going through several options, the user decided to make the façade he liked so much as a half-timbered structure based on OSB boards. This, according to the user, is much cheaper and easier than fiddling with the DSP.

Pie wall based on OSB

As a result, the user came to such a “patty” of the wall. From inside to outside:

drywall;
wall;
insulation – mineral wool, laid in 2 layers, with a total thickness of 100 mm;
wind- and moisture-proof membrane;
counter-lattice;
OSB 3 boards with imitation of half-timbered layout.

Since total savings are at the forefront, the first thing the user of our site did was Victor Banev, I virtually laid out the slabs on the walls to minimize cutting and waste.

Moreover, sheet dimensionsOSB dictate the location of the decorative layout from boards (25x100 mm), which cover the joints of the slabs and imitate half-timbered timber.

After several intermediate layout options, we managed to come to a common denominator. A sheet measuring 224x122 cm, placed vertically, almost completely covers the wall, and overlays (boards) are needed only to protect the vertical joints of the slabs. We'll tell you how to estimate the layout (having taken all the necessary dimensions from the facade in advance) using the example of the left wall of the house.

If you look at the picture above, you will notice that 2 whole sheets of OSB are placed vertically on the left and right. Based on the results of wall measurements, it turned out that the distance (remaining gap) in the middle is wider than one sheet, but narrower than two. Those. - we need to sheathe the wall with two pieces laid horizontally, and then close the resulting horizontal seam. To maintain symmetry and overall design layouts, add horizontal strips to the outer OSB sheets and proceed in a similar manner along the entire perimeter of the building.

The layout of the slabs and boards that cover the joints depends on the size of the house, and each case should be considered and calculated individually.

Installation of slabs

Having dealt with the layout design, we move on to installing the slabs. The work is simple, but there are a number of nuances. First of all, let's not forget that curtain façade requires good ventilation to exit excess moisture. If we neglect the main ventilation ducts, (gap) with an exit in the upper part of the facade, then the moisture will be locked inside, behind the OSB boards, which do not allow steam to pass through well, and with a large thickness are practically vapor-tight. Hence - a bunch of problems in the form of mold and waterlogging of the insulation.

The user is left with a gap at the top of the façade, approximately 1.5 cm across the entire width of the panel.

We proceed directly to the installation of OSB. The thickness of the slabs in this version is 9 mm. This is quite enough, because sheets practically do not carry power load. First, on the walls, outside, we stuff a frame - a lathing made of vertically placed wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50x50 mm.

We lay mineral wool insulation between them, by surprise.

Next, we stuff the horizontal sheathing and, accordingly, lay the insulation (the so-called cross insulation), orienting it horizontally. Thus, the joints of the plates overlap. Then we attach vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane, with obligatory overlap and gluing of joints with tape (double-sided).

Then we fill vertical bars 30x40 mm for fastening OSB sheets.

Victor Banev

The installation step of the bars is 0.4 m, i.e. it turns out: 3 vertical strips per 1 sheet. The OSB was secured with self-tapping screws, 6 pieces each. for 1 block. A gap of 2-3 mm was left between the sheets. Next, the gap was carefully painted over, although I think this is not necessary, because... from direct contact with rain or dew, the ends of the slabs will be protected by wooden plates 100 mm wide.

In addition to insulation, the windows of the house were replaced, for which they were moved forward on frames made of 5x15 cm boards.

Once the sheathing was completed, we began painting the assembled walls.

Before painting, one additional layer of universal bioprotective moisture-resistant impregnation, based on varnish, was applied to the surface of the slabs. Application was carried out on 2 sides.

Next, the slabs, before installation on the walls (this makes it easier and faster to work), were covered with two layers of acrylic facade paint. At the coverage stage, the user made one mistake, which will be discussed below, but for now we suggest you look at what happened on at this stage. According to the user, the result exceeded all expectations.

If you move 1.5-2 meters away from the facade, you get the impression that the walls are finished with plaster, and it is impossible to understand from the street that this is a facade made of OSB boards.

In addition to the decor, instead of the old porch, they erected summer veranda in the shape of the letter L from timber 15x15 cm.

After this, we moved on to the final finishing – installation of the half-timbered layout. The planed layout board has different lengths. Somewhere - 2, somewhere - 3 meters.

Diagonal jibs, 2.5 m each, are made from one solid board.

The boards are attached at the edges with self-tapping screws. The result is a strong, hermetically sealed connection that does not allow moisture to enter.

For contrast, the boards were painted dark brown.

Three years of operation of the facade confirmed the correctness of the technology. The OSB boards at the ends have not swollen, the paint has not peeled off, and the quality of the façade is consistently high. The only point mentioned above: due to an error made at the installation stage (several slabs “forgot” to be treated with bioprotection), the outside of the OSB was covered with fungus, which in some places emerged from under the paint.

The slabs treated with protection were not affected by mold. This error turned out to be easy to fix. The cladding was removed and painted again (for safety, with an antiseptic additive). A year later, the fungus did not appear. What happened in the end Victor Banev, show the following photos.

Andrey Pavlovets FORUMHOUSE Member

The facade has been in use for 10 years. walked through CBPB slabs with water-based emulsion 2 times, and that’s it, since then I haven’t touched up anything in all this time. The paint holds up just fine. I did everything myself. Sawing DSP size 1200x3600x10 mm for squares with a side of 1200 mm. Otherwise you won't be able to lift it. The most difficult thing is to make the upper corner outer elements. To sheathe, you had to climb up a ladder; if you made a mistake with a cut, you had to go down and cut again. I drilled holes for the screws in advance, then attached them with fasteners and, using a system of blocks, lifted them up. It's difficult, but it's worth it.

Users of the portal will find useful articles that tell, and.

(OSB, OSB) are a multifunctional and popular material in various fields construction. There are 4 types of panels, slightly different in their manufacturing technology and thus predetermined for various construction areas.

Classification of OSB boards

Panels of the first type (OSB-1) are characterized as a material with reduced resistance to moisture.
The peculiarity of the second type (OSB-2) is that the boards can be used as solid structural elements inside buildings, with normal level humidity.
The most popular is the third type (OSB-3). The panels tolerate moisture well and can be used in outdoor conditions.
The last, fourth type (OSB-4) has very strength characteristics and is used where reliable support is needed under conditions of heavy loads, high humidity and possible mechanical stress.

What can you do with OSB boards?

The scope of application of the plates is very wide. The wood-based material is devoid of internal voids and defects, excluding shrinkage or deformation of the panel sheet during operation.

OSB panels can be used to cover the walls of a house. This will serve as additional protection from dampness and act as insulation. In this case, there will be a minimum of additional finishing work.
A moisture-resistant type of material is often used in the construction of frame-panel buildings. In addition, it is the resistance to moisture that allows the panels to be used as reusable formwork.
In addition to external finishing work, OSB boards are ideally suited for finishing walls inside the house. Sheath any surfaces, lay the floor - you can do all this yourself.
The material is easy to work with - it withstands various fastenings well and does not require additional protection. OSB boards have a special impregnation that protects the material from rotting and fungal plaque. In addition, the sheets have a light weight, which also simplifies working with them.

Panel installation

If the choice is between finishing the walls with plasterboard or, then it is better to give preference to the latter material. More rigid in its structure, it is better mounted on frame base.

Installation of OSB panels is best done on a frame base - wooden or metal. Fasten the material vertically or horizontally. The fasteners are galvanized spiral nails. If the frame is wooden, then it is recommended to use self-tapping screws, special for wood materials(length 45-75 mm).

The slabs are fastened every 30 cm, at the joints - after 15 cm, and the outer edges - in increments of 10 cm. To avoid damage to the slab (cracking), a distance of 1 cm must be maintained from the edge of the slab to the driven nail.

Very often, when decorating walls with OSB panels, wires and cables are hidden behind them, although their external installation is also possible.

Wall decoration

After the slabs are fixed, the walls are finished. Most often, putty is used, which allows you to hide the gaps that have formed at the joints. In addition, such sealing prevents moisture from penetrating under the panels.

To finishing was minimally expensive, then in the process of purchasing the material, it is necessary to select panels with a polished surface. Later, varnish or other coating will fit well on it. The aesthetic side of the general appearance Wall will only benefit from this.

To putty the slabs, you can choose colorless gypsum, acrylic or latex putty. Before applying it, the panels are sanded with fine sandpaper and covered with a primer. It is better if the latter is not water-based.

The final coating can be varnishes, paints, wallpaper, laminated film and others. Decoration Materials. Paints and varnishes are applied in several layers, allowing each layer to dry. Varnish, in turn, provides additional protection from moisture, but if the installation of slabs is carried out at home, then it is better not to choose this coating, as the excess shine will be tiresome for the eyes. When choosing a paint, preference should be given to one that does not contain water.