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I rarely had to deal with acrylic materials.
First of all, these were acrylic varnishes, which were positioned as varnishes that, unlike polyurethanes, do not turn yellow over time. In principle, this is how it turned out. But there were also disadvantages: acrylic materials were more expensive and took longer to dry, which is critical when painting deadlines are tight and the painting area is poorly heated. And if the varnish has not dried properly, then problems arise with polishing it, the varnish begins to roll off.
Secondly, I had to work with acrylic paints when problems arose with metallic paint, which was made on the basis water paint. The paint supplier suggested making a metallic paint based on acrylic paint and, as time has shown, this was the right choice.
There is the following misconception about what it is acrylic facades. Acrylic facades are called furniture facades, which are covered with acrylic plastic, plastic and paint are two different things. So, don’t be confused about what acrylic facades are.
When you take on the renovation of your apartment yourself, you should have an idea of the materials that you will use. When doing any major or cosmetic repairs, you cannot do without paints and varnishes.
If you come across a knowledgeable salesperson in a store who also doesn’t mind helping you choose paint, you’re in luck. But not everyone is always lucky. Therefore, you often have to choose for yourself, and there is plenty to choose from.
In terms of their constituent components, paints are not always compatible with each other and with other coatings to which they are to be applied. Therefore, it is better to immediately choose paints that are compatible with each other, so that you do not have to bitterly regret wasted money and time.
On the label of any paint you can see its composition, but usually this is an alphanumeric code, which we will look into.
Paints and varnishes based on polycondensation resins
AU - alkyd-urethane
UR - polyurethane
GF - glypthal
FA - phenolic alkyd
KO - organosilicon
FL - phenolic
ML - melamine
CG - cyclohexanone
MP - urea (carbamide)
EP - epoxy
PL - polyester saturated
PE - unsaturated polyester
ET - ethrifthalic
PF - pentaphthalic
EF - epoxy ester
Paints and varnishes based on polymerization resins
AK - polyacrylate
MS - oil-alkyd styrene
VA - polyvinyl acetate
NP - petroleum polymer
VL - polyvinyl acetal
FP - fluoroplastic
BC - based on vinyl acetate copolymers
HS - based on vinyl chloride copolymers
HV - perchlorovinyl
KCH - rubber
Paints and varnishes based on natural resins
AC - alkyd-acrylic
BT - bitumen
SHL - shellac
KF - rosin
YAN - amber
MA - oil
Paints and varnishes based on cellulose ethers
AB - cellulose acetobutyrate
NC - cellulose nitrate
AC - cellulose acetate
EC - ethylcellulose
The first digit after the letter code indicates the purpose of the paint or resistance to certain conditions:
1 - weatherproof
2 - resistant indoors
3 - for preservation of metal products
4 - resistant to hot water
5 - for non-hard surfaces
6 - resistant to petroleum products
7 - resistant to aggressive environments
8 - heat resistant
9 - electrical insulating
0 - varnish, primer, semi-finished product
00 - putty
Sometimes to clarify specific properties paint coating After the number they put a letter index: B - high viscosity; M - matte; N - with filler; PM - semi-matte; PG - reduced flammability.
For putties and primers, after a zero or zeros indicates what drying oil it was made with:
1 - natural drying oil;
2 - drying oil "Oxol"
3 - glyphthalic drying oil
4 - pentaphthalic drying oil
5 - combined drying oil
Compatibility of paint materials
Having information about the composition of the paint, it is easy to select the primer and putty that are suitable for the binding components. But if you don’t have one at hand, there are options for compatibility of unlike connecting components:
Paint - Compatible Old Coatings
AS - AK, VL, MCH, PF, FL, HV, EP
MS - AK, AS, VG, GF, PF, FL
AU - VL, GF, FL, EP
GF - AK, VL, CF, PF, FL, EP
KF - VL, GF, MS, PF, FL
CC - VL, FL, HV, HS, EP
KO - AK, VG
MA - VL, CF, MS, GF, PF, FL
ML - AK, VL, GF, CF, MS, MC, PS, FL, EP, EF
MCH - AK, VL, GF, CF, ML, PF, FL, EP, EF
NC - AK, VL, GF, CF, PF, FL
AK - VL, GF, MC, FP, EP, EF
HV - AK, VL, GF, CF, ML, MS, PF, FL, HS, EP, EF
UR - AK, VL, GF, PF, FL
PE - VL, GF, KF, ML, MS, PF, FP
PF - AK, VL, GF, KF, FL, EP, EF
HS - AK, VL, GF, KF, PF, FL, HV, EP
EP - AK, VG, VL, GF, PF, FL, HS, EF
EF - VL, CF, ML, FL
ET - VL, GF, MC, PF, FL, EP
Primer - Compatible putties
AK - GF, MS, NC, PF, HV
AU - GF, PF
VL - GF, CF, MS, PF
GF - KF, MS, NC, PF
KF - GF, MS, NC, PF
ML - GF, MS, PF
MCH - GF, MS, PF
NC - GF, CF, NC, PE
PF - GF, KF, MS, NC, PF, PE, HV
FL - GF, CF, MS, NC, PF, PE, HV
HV - HV
HS - XV
EP - GF, CF, MS, PF
EF - GF, MS, PF
Paint - Compatible putties
AS - GF, CF, MS, NC, PF
AU - GF, CF, PF
GF - GF, CF, MS, PF
MA - GF, CF, MS, PF
ML - GF, MS, PF
MS - GF, CF, MS, PF
MCH - GF, MS, PF
NC - GF, NC, PF
PF - GF, CF, MS, PF
PE - GF, KF, MS, PF
HV - PE, HV
HS - PE, HV
EP - GF, PF, EP
ET - GF, MS, PF
Of course, you don’t have to comply with the compatibility requirements described above, but then get ready for the fact that the repair will have to be redone very soon.
If except decorative effect If you need to protect surfaces from the destructive effects of various aggressive environments, it is better to buy high-quality Belinka paint. This acrylic ceiling paint fits perfectly on almost any surface - from perfectly prepared to old coatings.
All photos from the article
In most cases, the compatibility of wood varnishes is determined by the location. painting works, that is, it can be painting lumber structures outdoors, or it can be painting indoors. The difference is that the outside is exposed to natural atmospheric phenomena - these are temperature changes and precipitation, including hail, so the finish during operation constantly experiences various thermal and mechanical loads.
The construction market offers a fairly large number of such varnishes, and we will look at some of them, and also show you a video in this article.
Types and characteristics
How are they classified?
Note. Since there are quite a lot of varnishes, the instructions recommend using them according to the place of application, according to the degree of gloss and composition.
- According to the place of application, such compositions are classified as those used for parquet - these are the most wear-resistant coatings that must withstand the loads even from walking in heels with metal heels. Furniture paints and varnishes are also very popular - they are very often used in household for various crafts and the same furniture.
Less applicable are compositions for boats (they have very high water resistance), as well as for decorative works, where strength is not so important.
- You can always determine the level of gloss visually - it’s not difficult and the coating speaks for itself. So, such paintwork materials come in high-gloss, glossy, semi-gloss, matte and semi-matte, but the price does not depend on this.
- And finally, the compositions, which are the main basis in the classification of paints and varnishes. So, they are acrylic, water-based, alkyd, polyurethane, epoxy, or they can be nitro varnishes.
Compositions
The production of alkyd varnishes is carried out on the basis of alkyd resins, hence the name of the classification, and organic solvents; they can be used for external and/or interior works, that is, they can be universal.
This varnish for external woodwork is very durable and resistant to moisture, so it is used not only outdoors, but also indoors. high humidity, for example, in the bathroom. The main disadvantage of this composition can be called long term drying - this lasts up to 72 hours, but if a special hardener is used, the process is reduced to 24 hours.
The cleanest and safest is odorless acrylic varnish on wood. water based, which has a high strength rating during operation; in addition, it is quite elastic and is able to preserve the natural color and structure of the wood.
In order for crystallization to take place in normal mode, the humidity must be within 50%, and it is applied using spray guns and paint rollers. This type of varnish in wood spray cans is made with a hardener, which significantly increases not only the hardening process, but also increases the operational strength of abrasion.
Perhaps the most waterproof varnish among all analogues can be called epoxy - it not only has very high moisture resistance, but, in addition, it is resistant to chemically aggressive substances and mechanical damage, that is, abrasion and shock. It is used for both internal and external work, and its final hardening time will not exceed 12 hours.
Nitrovarnish can be a mixture of varnish colloxylin, and different brands, resins and plasticizers - all this is presented in a solution of volatile organic solvents - it is used mainly for internal finishing works.
Such paints and varnishes are generally distinguished by their low cost, which is why they have gained wide popularity, although high mechanical strength to impacts and friction, as well as very rapid drying of the surface, depending on the air temperature.
But the whole problem with such paints and varnishes is that they are produced on the basis of toxic solvents that are extremely harmful to human health and you need to work with them only with gloves, goggles and respirators.
Probably the most popular among professional craftsmen and repairmen is a group of polyurethane-based varnishes - all of them are abrasion-resistant, mechanically strong and resistant to aggressive chemical influences.
It is noteworthy that the range of such paints and varnishes is not limited by the number and brand of manufacturers, but is determined by the scope of their use, for example, it could be parquet finishing, but it could also be painting musical instruments, where quality requirements are at the highest level.
The method of applying such a composition is interesting - most often it is applied to the surface to be treated using a metal spatula and thereby seals all the cracks and irregularities, but to create good adhesion, the rough surface must be well cleaned and dried - this largely determines the quality of the coating.
Note. It should also be noted that there is such a category as food grade varnish on wood, for example, XC-46, which is characterized by increased resistance to chemical reagents and substances that may be contained in food. It contains a solution of vinyldenchloride copolymer and vinyl chloride elastomer in solution with organic solvents. Such compositions are used mainly for the kitchen sector.
Conclusion
Of course, do-it-yourself painting work with varnishes of any composition does not pose any exceptional difficulty for the artist if everything is done according to the manufacturer’s instructions. But besides technical aspect The manufacturer always indicates precautions that should not be neglected under any circumstances!
paints and varnishes are applied to the surface to be protected, as a rule, using multi-layer systems, which can consist of primers, putties, enamels for various purposes. At the same time, the paint and varnish materials included in the system can be heterogeneous not only in the pigment part, but also in the film-forming base, but they must be compatible with each other. The ISO 12944-5 standard defines compatibility of coatings as the ability of two or more coatings to be used in a coating system without causing undesirable effects. The use of materials with incompatible binders and solvents that do not provide the necessary interlayer adhesion or high-quality uniform layer-by-layer coating leads to the need to remove the poor-quality coating and repeat preparatory and painting work.
When creating coating systems, it is best to use materials with one type of binder. This is especially true for chemically cured materials (epoxy and polyurethane). To ensure the necessary interlayer adhesion when applying these materials to them, it is necessary to very accurately follow the recommendations for interlayer drying time. Epoxies and polyurethanes contain very active solvents (xylene, acetone, cyclohexanone), so these materials cannot be applied over reversible physical curing coatings (chlorinated rubber, vinyl, copolymer-vinyl chloride, nitrocellulose, etc.), because Dissolution of reversible coatings and the formation of defects may occur. When applying epoxy or polyurethane coatings to materials that cure with oxygen in air (alkyd, oil), swelling and sub-dissolution of these coatings and peeling of the entire coating from the metal may occur.
Polyurethane enamels can only be applied over polyurethane, polyvinyl butyral or epoxy primers and enamels, observing the requirements for interlayer drying conditions to ensure interlayer adhesion. Epoxy enamels can only be applied over epoxy, polyvinyl butyral, zinc silicate and ethyl silicate primers and enamels.
Organosilicon and silicate paints and varnishes are not recommended to be applied over any other types of paints and varnishes, because most of them are heat-curing materials.
Alkyd and oil enamels can be applied to almost all physically curing paints and varnishes, except bitumen and pitch. In the case of using alkyd and oil enamels on coatings containing bitumen and pitches, the latter may migrate to the upper layers and change their color.
Vinyl, copolymer vinyl chloride and chlorinated rubber materials can be applied over polyvinyl butyral, acrylic, epoxy ester, zinc silicate and epoxy materials.
When choosing paint and varnish materials for repairing coatings after use, first of all, it is necessary to clarify the paint and varnish materials used in the previous painting.
When making repairs, it is better to use the same paints and varnishes as for the previous painting or similar ones (using the same binder).
To eliminate errors, it is best to use the experimentally verified recommendations given in technological instructions or other documents on this material.
Generalized experimental data on the compatibility of coatings on various film-forming bases are presented in table. 1.
|
Previous coating (base) |
Subsequent coating designation |
|||||||||||||
|
MA |
Alc. |
BT |
HB+bake |
HV |
VL |
CC |
EF |
EP |
EP+ pitch |
UR |
KO |
ZhS |
||
|
Oil, oil-resin |
||||||||||||||
|
Alkyd |
||||||||||||||
|
Bitumen and pitch |
||||||||||||||
|
Vinyl-pitch and chlorinated rubber-pitch |
||||||||||||||
|
Vinyl |
||||||||||||||
|
Polyvinyl-butyral |
||||||||||||||
|
Chlorine rubber |
||||||||||||||
|
Epoxy ester |
||||||||||||||
|
Epoxy |
||||||||||||||
|
Epoxy-pitch |
||||||||||||||
|
Polyurethane |
||||||||||||||
|
Krenium-organic |
||||||||||||||
|
Zinc silicate on liquid glass |
||||||||||||||
Notes:
“+” - can be applied
“-” - cannot be applied
“digital” - can be applied with the following restrictions:
1. In case the epoxy ester film-forming agent is diluted
white spirit;
2. If bitumen and pitches do not penetrate (do not migrate) to the surface
3. When applying anti-fouling enamel, it is advisable to use
intermediate layer to prevent diffusion of toxins into bitumen
(pitch) underlying layers;
4. After adhesion testing due to the variety of incoming solvents;
5. After roughening or tack coating;
6. After use for at least 3 months.
When choosing shop-grade primers, it is necessary to take into account their compatibility with the coating systems used in the future. For the right choice should be guided by the table. 2. (recommendations of the ISO 12944-5 standard).
Table 3.2
Compatibility of shop-floor (factory) primers with paints and varnishes based on various film-forming agents
|
Factory primer |
Compatibility of the primer with paints and varnishes |
||||||||
|
Binder type |
Anti-corrosion pigment |
Alkyd |
Chlorinated rubber |
Vinyl |
Acrylic |
Epoxy 1) |
Polyurethane |
Silicate / with zinc powder |
Bituminous |
|
1. Alkyd |
Mixed |
||||||||
|
2. Polyvinyl-butyral |
Mixed |
||||||||
|
3. Epoxy |
Mixed |
||||||||
|
4. Epoxy |
Zinc powder |
||||||||
|
5. Silicate |
Zinc powder |
||||||||
Notes:
“+” - Compatible
“(+)” - Check for compatibility with the participation of the paint manufacturer
“-” - No compatibility
1) - Including combinations with epoxies, for example, based on coal tar varnish.
Alkyd and acrylic paints are among the most common types of paints when it comes to serious painting projects: painting walls, metal products etc. Perhaps due to the similarity of the name, they are often confused. Do these types of paints really have anything in common?
Compound
In fact, the only similarity is that both are paints. They are completely different in composition.
Alkyd type can be called a more modernized option oil paints. They are characterized by a similar mechanism of hardening and formation of a surface film (which, by the way, is somewhat stronger, but less elastic). Alkyd paints consist of polyhydric alcohols (for example, glycerin) in combination with orthophthalic acid. Actually, the word “alkyd” comes from a combination of the words “alcohol” (alcohol) and “acid” (acid).
Unlike alkyd paints, acrylic paints are made on the basis of acrylic, a polymer better known as plexiglass. Paints may contain various additional components designed to improve certain properties (add elasticity, speed up drying).
Basic properties
- Life time. Unlike alkyd paint, the surface of acrylic paint retains its original appearance much longer. It is advisable to renew alkyd paint about once a year, since oxygen and ultraviolet radiation intensively destroy surface layer paints. Acrylic coating, subject to the technology of surface preparation and paint application, can last from 8 (wood) to 20 (plaster) years.
- UV resistance. Acrylic practically does not change the properties of the surface film when exposed to sun rays, that is, it does not fade, does not turn yellow and does not acquire a “matte” appearance. Alkyd compounds are not so reliable in this regard.
- Drying process. But the alkyd film dries relatively quickly, and after just a couple of days it fully performs its protective and decorative functions. The acrylic film completes its formation approximately a month after application to the surface. In this case, the coating should be protected from mechanical influences until it is completely dry.
- Mechanical stability. The longer process of forming the acrylic film is compensated by more high level resistance to mechanical stress(deformations, scratches).
- Decorative properties. Alkyd compositions are distinguished by a more diverse range of shades and undertones, as well as generally more bright colors. On the other hand, acrylic paint lasts longer and does not require regular updating.
Are acrylic and alkyd paints compatible?
Is it possible to apply alkyd compounds to acrylic or vice versa? Neither one nor the other is recommended, especially if the painting of the base occurred relatively recently or we are talking about metal surface. The fact is that the specific composition of the paints may not be completely clear to us. Alkyd compositions may contain components that will appear as dark spots through the acrylic paint layer. If alkyd paint is applied over acrylic, then it may not adhere to it, that is, it may peel off.
The only option for applying such paints to each other is to apply it to an old coating from which all the volatile components have already evaporated. However, even in this case, apply upper layer paint should only be used after treating the surface with a similar type of primer (that is, acrylic paint on acrylic primer and vice versa).
There are several types of acrylic paints:
a) water-based acrylic paints (interior or facade paints);
b) two-component acrylic enamels (car acrylic paints in a can).
They contain two components: paint and hardener, and polymerize due to chemical reaction with a hardener, and this reaction is irreversible.
c) one-component acrylic enamels (used in aerosols). They dry in air due to the evaporation of solvents.
Acrylic two-component paints cannot be applied to alkyd and acrylic one-component paints, as they behave aggressively towards the latter. It is possible to apply alkyd and one-component acrylic paints to two-component paints, since the polymerization reaction is irreversible and the coating is durable.
Aerosol paints use a one-component base.
All aerosols dry in air due to the evaporation of solvents. Therefore, it is possible to combine the application of acrylic and alkyd aerosol paints. But you need to apply the paint no later than 30 minutes after applying the last layer of paint (acrylic or alkyd).
8. Is it possible to apply acrylic paint to alkyd paint and vice versa?
Also, the solvent plays an important role. If the solvent is aggressive, it can dissolve alkyd paint. Typically, more aggressive solvents are found in acrylic one-component paints. Therefore, when applying acrylic one-component paint over alkyd paint, you need to be careful and first make sure that the coating is not adversely affected.
In the case of applying alkyd one-component paint to acrylic, subject to temporary recommendations (no later than 30 minutes after applying the last layer of paint), there is no reason to be afraid, since solvents in alkyd one-component paints are less aggressive.
Repairing painted surfaces is an inevitable process. Even if the finishing was previously done competently and with high-quality materials.
Before repainting the walls, you need to make sure that the new and old coating will be compatible.
At the moment, there are many ways to remove old paint.
- Mechanical methods. Acrylic enamel and acrylic paint or other coating is removed with sharp objects or power tools, for example, a drill with an attachment.
- Thermal methods. In this case, the paint is softened, for example, with a hair dryer, and then removed.
- Chemical methods. The finish is removed using a variety of removers.
However, the process of removing the old coating is long and labor-intensive. And the price is quite high, especially if you need to remove paint from a large area or complex surfaces. Based on this, many of us prefer to apply new finishing directly onto the old one. At the same time, the question of compatibility of coatings often arises.
In this article we will talk about whether acrylic paint can be applied to enamel and vice versa. However, first we will understand the basic concepts.
Types of paints and varnishes
The composition of paints and varnishes includes binders, fillers, pigments, solvents/thinners and additives. In order to competently use paint and varnish materials during repairs, you need to know exactly their composition.
Main Components
Oil paints based on drying oil.
All paints are divided according to the type of binder used and the type of solvent.
- The binder determines the main qualities of the paint, the service life of the coating and the speed of its drying. There are 4 common types of binders used for paints and varnishes: alkyd and epoxy resins, oil-based (on drying oil), latex, acrylic polymers.
- Solvent components are divided into solvents and diluents.. The former reduce the fluidity and viscosity of the material. Thinners only reduce the viscosity of the paint.
- To improve the characteristics of paints and varnishes, additives are added to their composition.: stabilizers, emulsifiers, fungicides, antiseptics, etc.
- Special paints belong to a separate category. This anti-corrosion coatings, for example, Zinga conductive paint. Analogs with antiseptic properties that protect the base from mold and rot. Compositions for removing small defects (irregularities, scratches, cracks), etc.
Oil and enamel compositions
The photo shows acrylic enamel.
For materials based on alkyd and acrylic resins include oil and enamel paints.
They are suitable for painting metal, wood and plastered surfaces.
After drying, they are non-toxic, light and moisture resistant.
- Oil paints are produced on the basis of drying oil. White Spirit, gasoline, turpentine or solvent naphtha are used as diluents. The compositions are not expensive, but they take a long time (up to several days) to dry. The main disadvantage is that the coating turns yellow over time.
- Varnish is added to enamel compositions as a binder. It gives the coating gloss and aesthetics. The instructions recommend using such paints for external and internal finishing work on metal, wood, concrete, and plaster.
Differences between alkyd and acrylic paints
Enamels are moisture and light resistant. They also have anti-corrosion resistance.
Emulsion and dispersion materials
Water-dispersed composition.
Such paints are diluted, but not soluble with water. In them, the binder and pigment particles are distributed in a liquid medium, creating a stable emulsion.
When the coating dries, it is not washed away by water.
- Emulsion compositions are economical, environmentally friendly and fire safe.
- They fit well on almost any substrate.
- They dry quickly and do not have a pungent odor.
Many people think that water-based and water-dispersion formulations are the same.
However, they are different.
- Matte emulsions wash off over time. The dispersions are waterproof and suitable for use in damp areas.
- Water-dispersion compositions are usually white; water-based analogues have a variety of colors.
- Dispersions cannot be used at temperatures below +5 degrees. However, with the addition of modifiers, they are thermally stable. Such, for example, are fire-retardant paints for metal Polistil.
Note!
The best analogues from water-based paints - based on acrylic resins and polymers.
They have high elasticity and strength.
- Such compositions are frost-resistant after they are completely dry.
- They are vapor permeable.
- Suitable for alkaline substrates (concrete, plaster).
- These paints are tinted very well.
- Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, retains its original color for a long time.
- They have the ability to repel water.
- They have high mechanical stability.
About paint compatibility
First, you need to apply epoxy putty to the old coating.
Based on everything written above, we will answer main question article - is it possible to paint on enamel with acrylic paint and vice versa.
- Based on their composition, acrylic paints and varnishes can only be applied to the same old coating. They cannot be applied over alkyd enamels due to incompatibility of thinners/solvents. The new coating will simply curl (raise) the enamel.
- In addition, it is not advisable to apply emulsion and dispersion compositions to old glossy and adhesive paints. The same applies to varnished bases.
- But after emulsion and dispersion materials, you can use any enamels and paints.
Now let’s talk about how to apply a coating of acrylic paint with your own hands without removing the enamel.
Note!
To do this, you need to create an intermediate layer that is resistant to both acrylic and organic solvents in a stable state.
It should consist of polyesters (for example, epoxy resin, polyurethane) with amine hardeners.
Such compounds are dissolved with acetone.
After puttying, acrylic primer is applied.
Nowadays many liquid putties and primers with the described composition are sold.
One of the best materials is "Inter Troton Spray".
- First, apply liquid putty over the enamel.
- Next, cover the surface with acrylic primer.
- Then you can paint the base.
Conclusion
If you are unable to withdraw old paint, then a new coating can be applied to it. However, there are nuances here. Some types of paints and varnishes are incompatible, so between them it is necessary to create an intermediate layer of neutral compounds. By watching the video in this article, you will expand your knowledge base.
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Alkyd or acrylic primer: which one to choose?
Surface preparation before finishing with any materials is extremely important. Priming helps save you money, significantly improve the quality of your repair and extend its service life. How to choose the right one Construction Materials and get the work done?
The primer is used for all types of substrates: metal, wood, concrete, brick, plaster, drywall, putty. Its main purpose is to provide a strong “grip” finishing materials, be it wallpaper, paint, varnish or tile, with a base. Paint and varnish technologies do not stand still, now you can find a primer that will protect wood from rotting and fungus formation, metal from corrosion, give plaster or putty special strength due to deep penetration or even color.
The choice of primer should be based on the type of substrate and the properties you want to give it. Available on store shelves today a large assortment acrylic and alkyd materials.
What is the difference between alkyd paint and acrylic paint?
The former are used for almost any reason. Their main advantage is that they are odorless. When repairing in small spaces acrylic primer is indispensable. However, if you need to carry out work on metal, then only alkyd material will help. It reliably protects iron from rust. Experienced builders prefer alkyd primers over acrylic primers for outdoor work.
The most common alkyd primer is GF-021. Its anti-corrosion properties can significantly extend the service life of metal products. In addition, the primer is often and successfully used for other types of substrates, for example, wood, drywall, brick, plaster. Specifications, which manufacturers indicate on the labels, give the right to call the GF-021 primer universal. In particular, this term appears on the jar of the Yaroslavl Color brand. If you are in doubt about which primer to buy, then you can safely choose GF-021 primer. Technical characteristics, including consumption per 1 m2 and drying time, vary across all product lines. Before purchasing, be sure to read the instructions for use.
Traditional flowers for alkyd primer are brown, red-brown and grey. The palette of this material does not always play great importance, since most often it is applied under finishing materials. As the primer absorbs and dries, it becomes dull, but can affect the color of the future coating. If you choose a primer for light-colored wallpaper, then alkyd will not suit you.
Among acrylic materials primers stand out deep penetration. They are designed to strengthen loose and fragile foundations. These may include concrete, plaster, wood, cement, gypsum, plasterboard, and previously painted surfaces. This type of primer penetrates as deep as possible into the base and reduces its absorption capacity, allowing significant savings on subsequent painting works. You will find such soil in the “Yaroslavl Color” and “Norma” lines.
The Braska line also includes a deep penetration primer, but it has additional properties that are valuable for repairs. It contains a fungicide - a chemical substance to combat fungal diseases. The primer is ideal for woodworking, protecting the base from the formation of mold and harmful bacteria.
Acrylic primers, unlike alkyd ones, are colorless, some of them are used as an independent coating. This is your option if you are looking for a primer for gluing light wallpaper. This type of primer can be used both indoors and outdoors.
You don’t have to worry about the quality of the coating formed by the primer if you choose it taking into account the existing base and finishing materials. In this case, the soil will responsibly fulfill all the duties assigned to it.
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Alkyd primer is an excellent analogue of imported primer. It can be used in cases where the surface to be treated does not need to be pre-impregnated.
Advantages of alkyd primer.
— high soil strength;
- resistant to abrasion after drying;
— reliably covers resinous knots. They are not visible even after several years;
— any paints (acrylic, alkyd, enamel, latex and nitro paint), glue (wallpaper, universal, PVA) and putties (acrylate and acrylic) lie smoothly on it;
— in addition to metal surfaces, alkyd primer is suitable for priming wood, plastic, plaster, laminated surfaces, chipboard, fiberboard, concrete, as well as surfaces previously painted with any paint;
- can be used when negative temperature;
- low toxic chemical composition. Can work without using special means protection, it is enough that the room is simply well ventilated;
— you can dilute the alkyd primer or clean the surface from it using white spirit. Inexpensive and accessible chemical.
Disadvantages of alkyd primer.
- long drying period;
— if the alkyd primer has not dried completely, some paints may curl upon contact with it;
- only the upper part of the surface is processed. That is, the alkyd primer does not penetrate deep into the material and cannot be used as a fixative for crumbling and loose materials. For them it is necessary to use acrylic primers;
- construction bandage from synthetic material that are not completely bonded to the surface should not be wetted with an alkyd primer. Because the bandage will bubble and stretch;
— despite the fact that white spirit is not a highly toxic substance, it is still quite harmful.
Is it possible to apply alkyd paint over acrylic primer?
Therefore, until the alkyd primer dries completely, the room must be well ventilated;
— the tools used for priming (brush or roller) must be stored wrapped in a rag moistened with white spirit. To prevent air from entering, they are additionally wrapped in polyethylene. This way the tools can be stored for a week. Then they can only be cleaned with special means.
