1. Artificial aging
2. Patina on wood
3. Detailed description of the compositions
4. Patina technology

Perfectly clean and glossy surface– a sign of the novelty of a piece of furniture or furniture. But aged wood is often valued more highly, especially when it comes to the classic furnishings of a room. Artificial patination of wood – quick way get an aged surface on any wooden surface and not only.

Initially, patina was an oxidized copper layer on furniture, mirror moldings, columns and other architectural elements in the palaces and estates of wealthy people. This effect was achieved after many years of service of the item. The film has a bluish or greenish tint.

Over time, patina began to be called any plaque that appears on metal and wooden surfaces.

Natural origin

Natural patination occurs under the influence of oxygen on the oxidized surface. Whether it's wood or metal, patina adds age and charm to an item. The effect mainly manifests itself on carved and forged textures - in these places there are many surface refractions, where abrasion of the main protective layer occurs.

Noble patina does not include heavily corroded areas, which negatively affect the integrity and aesthetic appearance of the surface.

Artificial aging

By aging wood and any other surface, designers mean creating the effect of an oxidized material, giving furniture and utensils a noble sound. But wait for the process to happen naturally incredibly long.

Modern technologies have helped with the solution - artificial patina. This is a coating with special coloring compounds using a special technology.

Materials for self-patination

1. Special paint, which often contains particles of real noble metals - silver, bronze, gold. This coating is more wear-resistant than natural patina; it protects the wood from destruction due to its dense texture with minimal porosity.
2. Any paint on a traditional basis will help create an imitation of a noble surface. The color in this case can be anything - from natural golden to unusual bright blue, purple, red, etc.

Patina on wood

Not every wood product can be covered with a natural coating without destroying the main structure - this is typical only for dense, moisture-resistant species, for example, oak or ash. Of course, the effect is arbitrarily formed only on a solid array, on modern facades Its formation from MDF is impossible.

Artificial patina is used on any surface:

• From the array;
• On slats;
• According to MDF.

To obtain the effect of antiquity, chemical effects on the surface are used in combination with mechanical ones.

Types of patina compositions

To paint “antiques,” compositions based on various substances are used:

• Bitumen;
• Acrylic;
• Wax;
• Shellac;
• Oil.

These substances create a patination different shades with individual effects:

• Fragmentary improvement;
• Full coverage;
• Craquelure effect.

Patina may vary in consistency:

1. The thick patina comes in the form of a paste. It is intended for gilding wood in shades from yellow to red, close to the color of natural gold.
2. Liquid patina for wood on a water or synthetic basis saturates the wood grain to noble shades and adds a slight shine effect.
3. Facet varnish will help create an in-depth aging effect with cracking of the coating (craquelure).

Detailed description of the compositions

Kitchen furniture with patina or a cabinet with a gilded frame - any wooden product that has a texture can be treated. It is worth noting that metal and wood are coated with compositions on different bases - they have special characteristics of stability and adhesion to the base.

stain

Almost every home has a patinated wood product. Coating boards with stain is one of the ways to refine products with the option of protection against fungi, mold, moisture penetration and rotting.

To enhance the effect work surface brushing: it is possible to preserve the longitudinal hard fibers, the soft ones are removed with a special hard brush. This is how natural wood is processed at home. True, in this case the patina color is the same - the stain is made in dark shade, you won’t have to expect gilding.

Bitumen

It would seem that a material far from art is bitumen. But the patina on wood made from it is the most pliable and easy to apply; it can be used to create rich gilding or a thin patina. Bituminous varnish blackens the recesses in the carving, highlighting the edges protruding to the surface. It is made on the basis of bitumen polymer and turpentine or white spirit, therefore, after drying, the treated surface must be secured with shellac varnish.

Acrylic

Universal material for water based for patination of surfaces made of metal, wood, plaster. It is durable, has good adhesion to substrates, and protects the wood structure from getting wet and colonizing microflora.

The technology of patination of wood does not contain any tricks: you can paint the entire surface or apply color selectively to the protruding parts of the carving. Compositions of different shades are applied in several layers - a complex color pattern is obtained.

Antique acrylic patina can be any color:

• Gold;
• Silver;
• Blue;
• Other possible shades.

Combinations of light and dark colors can give a rich aging effect to noble wood.

Wax

The wax composition leaves a pearlescent shimmer on the surface, which favorably emphasizes the relief of the carving. The coating hardens slowly and is easy to apply without special skills or tools.

Wax paint is non-toxic and safe, which makes it preferable for use in the kitchen. The durability and ability of wax to penetrate the porous surface of wood provides good resistance to humidity and cleaning.

Shellac

Shellac paint-varnish has a reddish-brown or yellowish patina. It helps to preserve the basic color and visible structure of the base if you use shellac as an independent product. In most cases, it is used as a covering layer for other compositions, in decoupage techniques and for painting.

Oil

The oil solution favorably plays up the structure of the wood with rich color. The material is similar to shellac mortar, but it cannot be used in the decoupage technique - the oil does not fix, but dissolves the paper. Used as a coating and protection for less durable paints.

Patina technology

Working with patina is not difficult; on the contrary, the process is exciting and creative. But for each type of surface there is its own algorithm for preparing the base and applying patina, which should be followed.

Surface preparation

If you decide to patina finished products with your own hands, the first thing you need to pay attention to is the quality of the surface. If the product is created from an unprocessed array, then there are no problems. It is more difficult with smooth surfaces of varnish, acrylic film, PVC - the paint does not stick to such surfaces. To correct the situation, we will take the following measures:

1. We brush the surface with coarse sandpaper or wire brush. In this way, we will get rid of the soft wood fibers hidden under a film that is unstable to such influences. The exposed structure is now suitable for further processing.
2. Use a soft brush to remove dust and degrease the surface.

MDF boards and Chipboard is better treat with primer - such preparation will help create an artificial wooden relief and ensure optimal adhesion of the base and the coloring composition.

Classic patination

It is not difficult to apply paints made from bitumen, wax or acrylic, but you need to do it correctly:

• Apply the coloring agent with a brush in an amount determined by the intensity desired result. The paint may appear only on the surface or penetrate into all the recesses of the relief.
• If desired, remove excess solution with a rag.
• If it is necessary to obtain a deep patination effect, after the first layer has dried, apply a second one and shade it in the same way.
• After the final layer of paint has dried, rub the treated area with fine sandpaper to give the product an aged look.
• We fix the finished surface with shellac varnish.

Furniture stain

The price of this method of decorating interior items is low, so everyone can afford to use this technique.

The use of stain allows you to darken the wood without adding a gilding effect, giving non-precious wood and panels the appearance of stately solid oak.

• Apply water stain to the brushed surface with a brush.
• Remove with a sponge upper layer paints to highlight the relief.
• After the layer has dried, a second one can be applied, but the composition must have a different base (white spirit).
• Rubbing wax deepens the texture of the object; rub it into the dried stain.
• We fix the result with shellac.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the technique using the example of processing staircase elements:

Craquelure

An expensive pleasure, but the effect is most impressive. To create it we use 2 components:

• Facet varnish;
• Patina.

The first stage is intensive painting of the surface with beveled varnish. The number of layers determines the depth of the coating cracks. After drying, the thick layer cracks and you can begin patination, which has already been discussed.

Artificial abrasions

The method below is universal for solid wood and MDF.

1. We take a patina of a darker shade than the main surface and apply it as the first layer.
2. We rub the protruding fragments with paraffin: carvings, forging, framing of the product.
3. Now we apply a lighter patina.
4. Remove the paraffin with a spatula and sand the wood.

This type of coating deepens the structure and most advantageously emphasizes the pattern of wood and carvings.

Publications: 66

08.08.2016

Decorative techniques: patina

Real, natural patina (Patina antica) is a greenish coating on copper or bronze products, which gives any item a noble imprint of time and antiquity. But in our time, decorators have slightly expanded the scope of application of patina and made it possible to patina not only metal, but also wood. Concerning wooden surfaces, then the color of the patina can be anything - from darkening in corners and patterns to gold or colored patina in the gutters of the product.

Types of patination compositions

Bituminous patina, or, as it is called differently - bitumen varnish, applied to patterned, carved elements of the product. The composition penetrates into the recesses of the pattern and is then wiped off the surface with a cloth, leaving carved elements noble darkening. The color of the patina can be adjusted by the amount of composition - the more of it, the darker the patina will be.

Acrylic patina- this is, in essence, just any shade of acrylic paint spilled onto the product, and then rubbed off and left in the corners or patterns. This is the simplest and safest type of patination, and you can choose the color of the patina yourself, which is limited only by your imagination. The combination of ivory and dark brown patina looks very classic, ebony and silver patina. As well as a terracotta product with a gold-colored patina.

Shellac varnish is a mixture of a special resin and ethyl alcohol, which has a pleasant warm red-orange hue. Usually varnish is used to highlight the texture of wood, but it is perfect for patination. You can adjust the shade by diluting the varnish to the desired light or dark state. This varnish looks very beautiful and natural on products painted with gold or bronze metallic paint.

Wax patina is a water-soluble wax-based paint. This patina is good because it rubs well over the surface and various reliefs for which it is best suited. Also, with this composition you can “aging” relief patterns from texture paste and rubbing over cracks from, which the ESTP Blog wrote about earlier.

Patination of metal

Patinating metal products with your own hands is quite difficult - so far they have not come up with anything better and more effective than the method in which the product is placed in a dark and damp room, saturated carbon dioxide. On average, a layer of patina appears in a month (maybe less - it all depends on the presence of copper carbonate in the metal itself), during which it is necessary to spray the product with a solution of acetic acid twice a day. This is the most difficult, but most “natural” way to obtain a beautiful patina on metal.

There is another method - chemical patination with special compounds. All compositions can be found in ordinary art stores, but the disadvantage of such patination is the causticity and toxicity of such products and special inconveniences when working with them in an apartment.

Patination of wood

With patination of wood, unlike metals, everything is much simpler. That is why wooden crafts with patina are so popular even in modern interiors. You can do the patination yourself.

We will need

Materials

• Primer.
• Acrylic paint.
• Patina.
• Varnish to fix the result.

Tools

• Sandpaper.
• Brushes.
• Dry and clean hard cloth.

Before work, it is necessary to treat the product - if there is a layer of paint on it, remove it with sandpaper, if not, simply polish and sand the surface. We remove all debris and dust and only then begin to apply the primer.

After the protective layer has dried, you can apply acrylic paint- base layer for patination. There can be several layers, but each of them will need to wait a day to dry. You can also give the paint layer a relief using special paint rollers.

The patination process itself consists of the next step - using a dry (!) brush, apply paint of a darker shade, or “metallic” paint - for example, gold. We apply it to the entire product, including corners and relief elements, which can be made darker by adding more paint. Let the patina dry, and then wipe the top layer with a dry, hard cloth or metalized cotton wool, adjusting the intensity of the patina with your movements. After this step, we coat the product with varnish.

Products with patina in the interior

Patinated products and furniture fit perfectly into any interior. For example, a bathroom in with patinated doors, a bronze sink or bathtub with patina, or a delicate children's room in style with a light patina on the cribs, or a kitchen in classic style with relief patinated facades - all this looks aesthetically pleasing, natural and invariably attracts attention.

The name “patina”, in fact, like the idea itself, comes from Italy. Initially, patina was considered to be a natural coating that formed on copper and its alloys. Such plaque appeared due to oxidative processes and not in all cases metal element looked beautiful. However, with the passage of time, a fashion appeared for metal products covered with patina. Since no one wanted to wait for the metal to be covered with an oxide-carbon film, they began to create patina artificially. To do this, various chemicals were applied to the metal, which usually included acids and oxidizing agents. Thanks to this, it was possible to patent the metal faster, and the final result looked much more beautiful.

Today, the fashion for decorating forged metal products and other elements made of this material has not subsided. Accordingly, no one forgot about the patina. The only difference is that now patina, as such, is a kind of decorative coating that creates the desired effect on the metal surface in a few seconds, without oxidizing it. Even a beginner without any experience can cover a product with patina at home. The main thing in this matter is accuracy and a sense of proportion!

Rules for applying decorative patina.

1. The most important thing is surface preparation! Since we are talking about metal and products made from it, you should definitely make sure that the surface is smooth and there are no burrs or bad, unsightly welds, unwanted holes and so on. On at this stage All defects should be removed with a file. Unforeseen depressions and holes are filled with a special metal putty. Afterwards the putty is rubbed off. This is necessary in order to remove its excess. During this process, it is best to use fine sandpaper. After all of the above, be sure to check the metal product for the presence of rust spots. If there are any, they need to be cleaned with a file or sandpaper and treated on top with an etching compound that removes corrosion and its traces. When everything is finished, the metal needs to be coated with a special primer for metal, which, firstly, will ensure good adhesion of paint and patina to the metal base, and secondly, will significantly extend the service life of the product by preventing the process of metal oxidation or, more simply put, its corrosion.

2. Before applying patina, the metal product is painted. The paint covers the primer layer and gives a beautiful appearance. Usually dark colors are chosen, in particular black. This is not surprising, since it is against a black background that both silver and gold patinas look most impressive. However, it must be taken into account that the patina will look darker against a dark background and therefore you should purchase this decorative coating with maximum color saturation. Naturally, before applying the patina, the previously applied layer of paint on the product must dry completely.

Methods of applying patina.

There are several methods and each of them is relevant in its own way in one case or another. It is important to understand that the choice of method almost directly depends on what effect you ultimately want to get. Patina can be applied either with a sponge or a brush. When applying patina with a sponge, the coating layer turns out to be very heterogeneous and light; this method is good if you only want to slightly emphasize specific place. The main thing is not to overdo it, because otherwise a trace of the foam rubber texture will remain on the product that you cover with patina. To prevent this from happening, you need to touch the metal lightly with a sponge, and apply the patina exclusively with sweeping movements. Applying a decorative coating with a brush has its own characteristics. By the way, a brush is usually used with a width of 2.5 - 3 cm. It must be dry. The patina is poured in a small portion onto the palette and rubbed there. After this, using a brush, it is applied directly to the metal itself. Just as in the case of a sponge, this is done using swinging movements. It is better to apply denser layers of patina with a brush, since thanks to the bristles there are practically no streaks left on the surface. The patina hardens very quickly, so if something goes wrong, immediately wipe off the excess with a clean cloth prepared in advance and try again.

If you have to apply patina to a forged product complex shape with various curls, etc. try not to touch unnecessary elements. For example, if a curl entwines a separately located rod, and you want to highlight this particular curl, do not paint over the rod as well - this will significantly worsen the appearance. Of course, it is not always possible to cover the desired part with patina without touching neighboring elements, so you should always keep a prepared small brush and paint that matches the background color, for example black, next to you.

Ideally, if you apply the patina properly, it will work the first time. All subsequent layers cover the texture, making a denser coating. In this case, the effect will not be the same.

And remember that before and during work, the patina in the jar must be stirred!

Usually, when talking about high-temperature dyes, people often think of special compounds that can protect the surface without particularly worrying about the appearance. However, there are also materials that, in addition to their protective qualities allow you to give the product a certain appearance. A striking representative of such compositions is Patina paint for metal, which is often used for blacksmithing.

Features and varieties

To begin with, it is necessary to say that most often such compositions are used for forged elements, which are used for fireplaces, barbecues and other parts various devices exposed to fire or heat.

At the same time, fire-retardant paints for metal Polistil can serve as excellent decorative coating, and Patina is very limited in her color scheme and is more similar to the process of gilding or silvering ().

Characteristics

• First of all, it should be mentioned that the main advantage of such compositions is their decorative property. Protective functions V in this case fade into the background, although they should not be neglected.
• It is important to note that Patina painting can be done without primary treatment. The fact is that this material itself is an excellent rust neutralizer and creates simply excellent protection against subsequent corrosion.

• Some professionals use this type of paint even after another coating has been applied to the surface. It holds up well even on a layer of raddling or bluing. However, almost all manuals that tell you how to paint with Patina strongly recommend that you first degrease the required area.

• It is believed that this type of mixture tolerates moisture well, but almost all such compositions are very sensitive to various types of acids that may be present in precipitation, which means that the use of such dyes for outdoor work is not recommended.
• Don't think about what this type paints are used exclusively for metal products. Most masters use it for design design decorative elements in the form of a baguette or stucco molding. However, it is recommended to use special primers to increase the level of surface adhesion and reduce its ability to absorb moisture.

Advice! Professional craftsmen try to use this type of dye only when necessary to save money. Otherwise, they try to resort to gold plating or other electroplating methods.

Color options

• Some craftsmen believe that Zinga conductive paint and the like are very similar to Patina. However, such an opinion is erroneous, since upon closer examination one can notice a big difference even in appearance. There is no need to talk about the physical properties of these compositions at all ().

• The most common colors are gold and silver. However, there are compositions that imitate greening and even rust, but their price is much higher than conventional mixtures.
• Dyes that are used for highly artistic works deserve special attention. They are sold in small containers and may be supplemented with natural fillers that match their color. Also, the master can introduce additional components into the mixture with his own hands, creating a certain effect and even relief.

• Considering that the number of colors of such material is very limited, and mixing is not worth it. Professional artists prefer to use the intensity and richness of this dye to create shades. However, the installation instructions indicate that this must be done very carefully, so as not to damage the basic properties in an attempt to achieve greater transparency.
• Before starting work, it is worth creating a sketch of the future product in advance, which will allow you to choose the right combination of all colors. For these purposes, you can use a special software, which allows even people without artistic skills to work.

Advice! Professional craftsmen recommend first applying a little paint to the area of ​​the structure that will be least noticeable and see how it will look after it hardens. This way you can get a visual idea of ​​the final appearance and, if necessary, make adjustments to the paint composition.

Conclusion

By watching the video in this article, you can get more detailed information about what this type of material is and in what areas it is used. At the same time, based on the article presented above, it should be concluded that such dyes are used exclusively for.

The use of such dyes for large surfaces will lead to additional expenses which could have been avoided by choosing a different coating method.

All photos from the article

Do you have old examples of wooden furniture in your house, the appearance of which has lost its presentability? There is a method that will allow you to breathe into them new life- patination. In this article we will look at how you can do it yourself at home.

Description

Patination of wood represents it artificial aging by applying alternately two layers of paint in a certain way, but let's talk about everything in more detail:

Stage No. 1: preparation of materials and tools

You will need the following materials:

Name	Purpose
Primer	Increases the adhesive properties of the treated surface
Dye	Creates the first solid layer of the finish in question, for which you can use any color, in this case you should be guided by your own preferences, practicality and compliance with the surrounding interior
Patina	The second is applied selectively, giving that very necessary scuffed effect; metallic shades of bronze or gold are best suited for this task.
Varnish	Creates a transparent protective coating

It is best to purchase acrylic paint, as it has many advantages:

Do-it-yourself patina for wood is applied using the following tools:

Stage No. 2: surface preparation

Before making a patina on wood, it must be brought into the appropriate condition:

1. We carefully process the wood with sandpaper, trying to remove as much as possible traces of the old paintwork.