The appearance of yellow leaves on tomatoes indicates a violation of the rules for growing plants. There are several explanations why tomato leaves turn yellow. This includes disruption of the microclimate when growing tomatoes, lack of fertilizers, and the spread of diseases and pests.
Causes of yellowing leaves
Microclimate disturbance
For normal growth, tomatoes require maintenance of certain climatic conditions. Typically, leaf drying is associated with improper temperature conditions and non-compliance with watering rules. If the tomatoes turn yellow and the leaves dry out, what to do depends on the cause of the microclimate disturbance.
Temperature
For normal growth, tomatoes require a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees Celsius. daytime. At the same time, at night its value should remain at 18-20 degrees. Sharp temperature fluctuations negatively affect the condition of plants.
When temperatures rise above normal, plants wilt. The first sign of this process is yellowing of the leaves of the tomatoes. If measures are not taken in a timely manner, the tomatoes’ inflorescences will begin to fall off.
Important! Regular ventilation will help reduce the temperature in the greenhouse. To do this, its design must have vents.
Glass in a greenhouse can be covered with lime to reduce exposure to sunlight. To reduce the temperature, containers of water are placed between the bushes.
If tomatoes grow in open ground, then you can build a canopy over them. Its functions will be performed by fabric white.
Watering tomatoes
Violation of the moisture regime also leads to drying of plant leaves. Tomatoes require abundant but infrequent watering. Due to the developed root system, tomatoes can receive moisture and nutrients from a depth of up to one meter.
Advice! It is best to water your tomatoes twice a week. Each bush requires 3 liters of water.
With sufficient rainfall in open ground, plants will require less watering. Moisture should be applied at the root. It is not allowed to get on the stems and tops of tomatoes. Otherwise, it will cause the leaves to burn.
To water tomatoes you need warm water. Best to use rainwater, which warmed up in the sun. Plants should be watered in the morning or evening in the absence of direct sunlight. The intensity of watering increases during the flowering period of tomatoes.
Mulching will help maintain the required level of soil moisture. To do this, straw and compost are placed on the soil surface. Mulch avoids loosening and reduces the number of weeds.
If tomato leaves turn yellow, this is the first sign of lack of moisture. Therefore, it is imperative to review the irrigation scheme and make adjustments if necessary.
Fertilizer shortage
The appearance of yellowness on plant leaves is often associated with a lack of nutrients in the ground. This is usually observed on tomatoes in open ground or large greenhouses, where it is difficult to control the quality of the soil.
Nitrogen
With a lack of nitrogen, tomato leaves turn yellow, after which the dried tops fall off. If timely measures are not taken, the bush will begin to stretch out, and the young shoots will become pale and small.
Important! Nitrogenous fertilizers are necessary for tomatoes after transplantation. permanent place. The second fertilizing with nitrogen is carried out when the first ovary appears.
Due to nitrogen, plant growth improves and green mass increases. Tomatoes can be fed with urea. A bucket of water requires 40 g of this substance. The resulting solution is used for spraying plantings.
When using nitrogenous fertilizers, the dosage of the substances must be observed. Frequent fertilizing with nitrogen will lead to increased growth of tomato tops. If after fertilizing the condition of the plants has improved, then further application of nitrogen should be stopped.
Potassium
When there is a deficiency of potassium, the old leaves of tomatoes turn yellow and dry, and the young tops curl into a boat. Small spots appear along the edges of the leaf plate, after which they merge into a single line. As a result, the tomato leaves dry out.
You can fertilize plants with potassium at any stage of the growing season. This microelement is especially important for adult tomatoes when the fruits ripen.
Advice! You should choose fertilizers that do not contain chlorine.
One of the feeding options is the use of potassium sulfate. After its use, the content of vitamins and sugars in fertilized vegetables increases, and the plants become resistant to diseases.
To feed tomatoes, 40 g of potassium sulfate per bucket of water is required. Plants are watered at the root or sprayed on the leaf.
Magnesium
With a lack of magnesium, yellowness first appears between the veins, then the leaf blade curls.
Magnesium sulfate will help compensate for the deficiency of this element. 40 g of the substance are diluted in 10 liters of water, after which they are applied to the roots of plants. For spraying tomatoes, the specified rate is halved.
Magnesium allows plants to better absorb nitrogen, calcium and phosphorus. As a result, the development of tomatoes is activated, productivity increases and the taste characteristics of the fruit improve.
Sulfur
Sulfur deficiency is determined by the light green tint of the leaves, which gradually turn yellow. In this case, the veins become red. With a prolonged lack of sulfur, the stem weakens and becomes brittle.
Ammoniated superphosphate will help compensate for the deficiency of this element. This substance is highly soluble and provides tomatoes with sulfur and potassium.
Iron
Lack of iron causes chlorosis. This disease is characterized by the appearance of yellow leaves, with the veins remaining green. Over time, the tops of the tomatoes lose color and the plant stops developing.
Iron sulfate, on the basis of which a solution for spraying is prepared, will help fill the deficiency. 5 g of the substance is added to a bucket of water, after which the treatment is carried out. A week later the procedure is repeated.
Development of diseases
The cause of yellowing of tomato tops is often diseases. Most of them develop when excess humidity, dense plantings and other violations in plant care. Special drugs are used to combat diseases.
Fusarium
The spreader of fusarium is fungal spores. The lesion covers the roots, stems, tops and fruits of tomatoes. Signs of the disease can occur at any stage of plant development, however, most often they can be detected during fruit formation.
With fusarium blight, tomato leaves turn yellow, which then curl and wither. A section of the stem reveals brown vessels. The disease occurs from below, after which it moves to the apex.
When fusarium appears, it is recommended to remove and burn the plant to avoid the spread of infection. To prevent the disease, you need to treat the seeds and soil with fungicides before planting, plant the plants at a distance of 30 cm from each other, remove weeds, and loosen the soil.
Late blight
If the leaves on tomatoes turn yellow, this may be a sign of late blight. This fungal disease, which is characterized by the presence of brown spots on yellowing leaves.
When late blight appears, all yellowed leaves must be removed. The humidity level in the greenhouse should be reduced by ventilating it.
Healthy bushes are treated with biological preparations (Fitosporin, Trichophyte, etc.). After using them, the fruits must be thoroughly washed and only then used for food.
If there is more than a month left before the harvest, it is allowed to use chemicals(“Ridomil”, “Quadris”, “Hom”). They are also used after harvest to disinfect the greenhouse and soil.
Additionally, tomatoes are treated with a solution based on iodine and milk (15 drops of iodine per 1 liter of milk and 9 liters of water). The procedure is carried out by spraying the plants. As a result, a film is formed on the surface of the tops, which prevents the penetration of harmful bacteria.
Pest Spread
The main pests of tomatoes are whiteflies, aphids, spider mites. If these insects are detected, the plantings must be sprayed. Pests feed on the sap of plants and draw vitality from them. As a result they turn yellow upper leaves, and the plants gradually wither.
If there is more than a month left before the harvest, then the preparations “Inta-vir” or “Iskra” are used. These drugs have a paralytic effect on nervous system insects The preparations do not harm tomatoes or the environment.
When the harvest time is less than a month, the drug “Biotlin” is used. This remedy has a quick effect.
Other reasons
Seedlings may turn yellow if there is insufficient lighting. Installing a white fluorescent lamp will help solve the problem. For tomatoes, the daylight hours should be 8-10 hours.
If tomatoes turn yellow lower leaves, then this indicates damage to the root system. This usually happens during deep loosening or during transplantation of plants to a permanent place. In this case, the color of the leaves will be restored when the tomatoes develop adventitious roots.
Conclusion
Why tomato leaves dry out depends on the condition environment and application of fertilizers. If the temperature rises above normal, you can completely lose the crop. Be sure to adjust the watering scheme for tomatoes and, if necessary, fertilize the plants.
If signs of disease or the presence of pests are detected, the tomatoes are treated. For this purpose, special preparations are used, on the basis of which a solution for spraying is prepared. You can process plantings traditional methods, which are as safe as possible for plants.
When gardeners first encounter changes in leaf color, they do not think about the fact that there are many reasons for this. That is why you should carefully and thoughtfully examine a tomato bush on which yellow leaves have appeared. Correct “diagnosis” is the key to further success. In this article we will tell you why the leaves of tomatoes in open ground turn yellow and consider the main reasons.
Various signs of yellowing tomato leaves
When an uncharacteristic color appears, there is no need to panic, but you should not be indifferent either. The main thing is to establish the characteristics of yellowing by shape, shade and its location on the leaves. Often there are symptoms that should not be feared, because the plant’s normal reaction to certain conditions:
- “Paleness” may occur soon after seedlings are planted in open ground. This occurs due to the adaptation of plants to more extreme conditions for them.
- Yellowing and drying of the lower leaves during fruit ripening. This is normal because the plant is sending nutrients to the crop. In this case, there is no reason to worry, you just need to remove the leaves. But not all at once, but the lowest ones and only one every week. Unfortunately, there is no complete certainty that they do not contain any pathogens, so it is better to burn them, just in case.
- If the leaves turn yellow and dry out during growth, this may be due to lack of moisture.
Reasons for discoloration due to lack of nutrients:
| Title nfoodmeltingelement | External signs of shortage | Remedies | |
| Nitrogen | An abnormally light green or sulfur color that appears shortly after planting tomatoes in open ground. | Apply nitrogen fertilizers, but only before the buds appear. (Ammonium nitrate – 15 g/m2). |
|
| Potassium | The leaves turn yellow and immediately dry out at the edges. | Fertilizing with potassium salt - 15 g/m2 or ash. | |
| Phosphorus | The main plate changes color to brown, only the tips turn yellow. | Use superphosphate - 40 g/m2 or ash - 300 g/m2 | |
| Zinc | The edges of the leaves quickly dry out and curl | Application mineral fertilizers, which contain microelements. If fertilizing is carried out on time, the yellowing will stop. Leaves that changed color before fertilizing will not return green; they must be partially or completely removed. | |
| Magnesium | Yellowing occurs at the leaf veins | ||
| Molybdenum | Yellow drop-shaped spots that never affect the veins | ||
| Bor | Only the upper leaves lighten and the growing point dies. | Spraying leaves with a solution of boric acid 5g per 10 liters of water | |
| Sulfur | Reminiscent of nitrogen deficiency symptoms, but young leaves turn yellow first, not older ones. The difference from nitrogen is the fragility and brittleness of the leaves. | Magnesium sulfate – 1 g per 10 liters of water |
|
| Iron | The pallor extends from the leaf petioles to the tips. The growth of the entire bush slows down sharply. | Spraying with a weak solution of iron sulfate - 5 g per 10 liters of water | |
| Chlorine | Small spots appear on the veins. Withering sets in quickly | Eliminated by foliar feeding with potassium chloride 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water | |
Tip #1. Before you do anything, you need to make sure that the cause of the yellowing of the leaves is determined correctly.
Yellowing of leaves due to diseases
Often the external symptoms of nutrient deficiency are similar to tomato disease.
When the leaves acquire bright color, which artists call ocher, means that the tomatoes are infected with fusarium. This is one of the common diseases caused by a fungal pathogen. Fusarium appears only on mature plants in hot and humid weather. Feature– the disease spreads from the lower leaves, since the pathogen overwinters in upper layers soil. The entire bush is gradually affected. If measures are not taken, the plant will die.
Late blight appears after prolonged rains or prolonged cloudy weather. It is especially dangerous for fruits and can destroy the entire crop. Having discovered a fungal disease, you need to take immediate action. A proven remedy in this case is copper-containing preparations. Still popular copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture. Proponents of environmentally friendly control methods successfully use the following mixture:
The bushes are sprayed with this mixture after all affected leaves are removed and burned. The action of this product is based on the proliferation of lactic acid bacteria, which suppress the growth of pathogenic fungi.
Preventive methods to prevent yellowing of tomato leaves
Grow a rich harvest of tomatoes good quality without flaws and diseases, it is possible when the conditions for planting tomatoes are provided in advance. The best option– autumn soil preparation for planting seedlings in the spring of next year. If the soil contains all the necessary substances, then the appearance of the tomatoes and the quality of the fruit will be excellent. In the fall, they choose a place for tomatoes; you should not plant them after potatoes or eggplants. These crops have common diseases and pests. They also need the same nutrition, so after them the soil is not suitable for tomatoes.
Soil preparation is carried out in the following order:
- Optimize soil structure to light loam or sandy loam. This is the state that is most favorable for tomatoes. In heavy natural soils contribute coarse sand at the rate of 20 kg/m2 or lowland peat 10 kg/m2. Read also the article: → "".
- Check soil acidity. If necessary, neutralizes the pH to 6 – 6.5. To do this, add slaked lime to the acidic lime - 400 g/m2. In addition to lime, you can use chalk, limestone and dolomite flour. Good results ash provides, it also serves as a rich source of phosphorus and potassium, substances that are necessary to strengthen the plant and a high-quality harvest.
- Improve soil fertility adding organic fertilizers, compost or humus – 5-6 kg/m2. When preparing soil for tomatoes, do not use bird droppings, since a large amount of nitrogen provokes strong growth of stems and leaves. As part of traditional soil cultivation, autumn digging is used, thanks to which pathogenic flora and pests that appear on the surface freeze out during the first cold snap.
Supporters of organic farming rightly object that not only harmful microorganisms are destroyed, but also those without “ healthy image life” of tomatoes is impossible. To maintain the natural balance in the soil, organic fertilizers are applied in the fall, and in the spring, EM are preparations that are used when stable heat sets in at an average daily temperature of + 12 0.
Tip #2. EM preparations are used no later than 2 weeks before planting seedlings in open ground. These substances improve soil fertility and suppress pathogenic microorganisms. Tomatoes grown in such conditions are fully supplied with nutrition and independently withstand adverse factors.
Preparations against yellowing of leaves
Chemical preparations that replenish the lack of nutrients successfully replace organic substances and EO preparations. To strengthen tomatoes and obtain a high-quality harvest without yellowing of leaves, environmentally friendly products are used.
- Sodium or potassium humate– an environmentally friendly substance obtained from peat, plant residues, and humus. Contains humic acids, microelements and vitamins.
“Sodium humate” improves soil fertility and ensures the survival rate of tomato seedlings. Strengthens plant tissue, thanks to which tomatoes cope with unfavorable conditions. - "Vermisol"– an extract from vermicompost obtained as a result of the vital activity of Californian worms. Used as organic fertilizer and growth stimulant. Improves general state plants and harvest quality.
- "Baikal - EM - 1"- a concentrate of living cultures that synthesize humus. It is used in the warm season 2 - 3 times a week, ½ liter of a solution of two tablespoons per 10 liters of water is added to each bush.
"Baikal EM - 1" is a concentrate of living microorganisms for the synthesis of humus. In addition, it increases plant immunity, which significantly increases the yield and quality of fruits. These and other similar products provide complete nutrition to the plants, so the leaves on the tomatoes do not turn yellow. Perhaps only when the fruits ripen, but this is a natural process.
Caring for tomatoes in open ground to prevent yellowing of leaves
To avoid unwanted yellowing, take the following: preventive measures when planting tomatoes and caring for them during flowering and fruiting.
- Fertilizer application. The choice of nutrients depends on whether the gardener prefers to use mineral or organic products. In early spring when digging the soil, add complex NPK fertilizer, for example, “Fertika. Universal. Garden. Garden".
If you observe yellowing of tomato leaves, this is not necessarily a cause for concern. In some cases, you don't need to do anything. But in order not to worry and not miss the onset of the disease, you should determine why the leaves of tomatoes turn yellow.
Some reasons for yellowing leaves are common - both when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse and in open ground.
For example, sometimes tomato leaves turn yellow when the roots are damaged during transplantation of seedlings to a permanent location. Sometimes the seedlings are cramped in the containers in which they were planted, and the roots are damaged during growth. And root system may be damaged already in the garden due to careless loosening or weeding.
In some cases, tomatoes are difficult to tolerate transplanting. Especially if the conditions for growing them have changed significantly - temperature, humidity, soil characteristics.
Nature arranges it in such a way that in such situations all forces are directed towards the growth of shoots, and the first leaves, having served their purpose, turn out to be superfluous and turn yellow from a lack of nutrients.
In these cases, you don’t need to do anything: the tomatoes will adapt to the new place, straighten their roots and grow additional ones. They will need strength for this process for some time. Tomatoes may drop yellow leaves that are starved of nutrients. Their condition is quickly restored.
To help seedlings take root faster, you can spray them with compositions to stimulate growth - “Kornevin”, “Epin”, “Zircon”.
But there are many situations when plants need help.
In the greenhouse
Most often, greenhouse tomatoes begin to turn yellow due to errors in care. The following conditions are unacceptable to tomatoes:
- Little light. This may be due to weather conditions, dense film covering, high plantings in the neighborhood, or non-compliance with the requirements for the distance between tomato bushes.
- High humidity. The maximum permissible air humidity for tomatoes is 60–70%.
- Acidic soil. Acidity should not be higher than 6.2–6.5 pH.
- Depleted soil. Lack of nutrition is detrimental to tomatoes. Actively saturate the soil with minerals complex fertilizers: “Agricola”, “MultiFlor”, “Zdraven”.
- Mistakes when watering. Tomatoes do not require excess water, especially constant ones. Tomatoes need to be watered once every 7-10 days, about a bucket of water for each bush. In hot weather, you can water more often to prevent the soil from drying out.
- Diseases. Diseased tomatoes need to be treated urgently using special medications. These may be Trichodermin, Fitocid-R, Quadris and others.
In an open garden
Although in most regions tomatoes do better outdoors than in a greenhouse, outdoor tomatoes are more dependent on climate and weather conditions.
Therefore, the causes of yellowness may be:
- Heat. In the scorching sun, tomatoes can get burned. On such days, it is better to cover the tomatoes with light, breathable material.
- Cold weather. When the temperature drops significantly, the roots of tomatoes stop delivering nutrition to the stem and foliage, as a result of which the plant’s metabolism suffers. Therefore, in cold weather, plants also need to be covered.
- Dried soil. Tomatoes cannot receive nutrition from such soil, which can cause the plant to die.
- Excess water. In rainy weather or when there are nearby groundwater small roots rot. Mulching the soil with mowed grass or pine litter, as well as fertilizing with potash fertilizers will help. You can build a canopy over the plants to prevent excess water from getting into the soil.
- Pests. Tomatoes can be attacked by aphids, mole crickets, cutworms and whiteflies. Sometimes the larvae of the cockchafer live in the ground in a tomato bed. To get rid of them, insecticides are used: “Ratibor”, “Akarin”, “Tomato Rescuer”.
What to do if the foliage of tomatoes turns yellow
Based on some signs, you can determine the exact cause of yellowing and eliminate it.
Nitrogen deficiency
When there is little nitrogen in the soil, tomato leaves first lighten, then turn yellow. The ovaries fall off. Not only the leaves become small, but also the fruits.
It is necessary to water the plantings with urea - 60 grams per bucket of water. This volume of solution is enough to treat 10 m2 of soil.
An infusion of comfrey will also help - leave a kilogram of herb in a bucket of water for 4 days. Suitable for both root and foliar feeding. This composition is diluted with water 1:3. Consumption - a bucket per 2 m2. But you need to take into account that with an excess of nitrogen, the greens will grow rapidly, and the fruits will not set.
You can use mullein - 1 liter of fermented infusion per 10 liters of water or bird droppings diluted with ash - 0.5 liters per bucket of water.
Lower leaves
The lower leaves of tomatoes often turn yellow for reasons unrelated to disease or poor care. This is exactly the case when yellowness is a consequence of the fact that the tomato is getting rid of old leaves when adapting to a new place after transplantation or the roots are slightly damaged. In such a situation there is nothing to worry about.
Upper leaves
The plant tries to save the upper young leaves, so nutrition is primarily delivered to the tops. But if they turn yellow, this indicates the weakness of the plant. The main reason is a lack of nutrients.
|
Microelement |
Signs |
Spray solutions |
| Iron | Spots along the vein and in the center | Iron sulfate - 1% solution. Iron chelate - 5 grams per 8 liters of water |
| Calcium | Yellowness and blossom end rot on leaves and fruits | Calcium nitrate - 20 g per bucket of water |
| Sulfur | The leaves turn yellow to white, become thinner, may break, and their veins turn red | Magnesium sulfate - 10 g per bucket of water |
| Bor | The leaves bend at the base, later turn yellow or orange, become brittle, and fall off. Pollination does not occur, the stalks dry out | Boric acid - 5–10 g per bucket of water |
| Manganese | Yellow-green spots in the center | 1% solution of potassium permanganate |
Spraying is carried out in the evening in cloudy weather.
The edges of the leaves turn yellow
Yellowing and deformation at the edges of leaves also indicates a lack of nutrition.
| Microelement | Signs | What to do |
| Phosphorus | The leaves become smaller and the edges curl. The stems and leaves turn purple on the underside. Later, the old leaves fall off and the young ones stop growing. The fruits ripen slowly, their color becomes bronze | Add “Superphosphate”, “Diammophos”, “Nitrophoska” - according to the manufacturer’s instructions |
| Potassium | Old leaves turn yellow at the edges, young leaves curl into a tube and become smaller. The stems become woody. Fruits ripen unevenly | Treatment with potassium nitrate (1 tbsp per bucket of water), humate or potassium sulfate. Potassium chloride is treated until fruiting begins |
Treatment should be started as early as possible, at the first signs of the disease.
The foliage turns yellow and dries out
Tomato leaves may turn yellow and dry out if the air is too dry. The stem becomes limp, the flowers and tops dry out, and the tomatoes drop their buds. In this case, you can place containers of water next to the yellowed plants. This technique is especially effective in a greenhouse.
Tomatoes pre-fertilized with phosphorus are more resistant to such conditions.
Often, drying of tomato foliage is a sign of bacterial spotting. The leaf blade is covered with brown spots with light edges. It is cured by copper sulfate, copper sulfate or copper chelate.
The lower leaves dry out and curl, and the tops wither when infected with fusarium. This is a fungal infection that is especially active in moist soil. Fusarium is difficult to treat. You can use “Benazol”, “Strekar”, “Fundazol”. But this must be done no later than 3 weeks before harvest.
Curl up
If the leaves curl upward, one of the reasons may be pests: aphids or mite larvae.
You can use commercial insecticides or, if there are not very many pests, use folk remedies:
- Onion peel. Pour a glass of husk into 10 liters of liquid and leave for at least a day. The bushes need to be sprayed with this solution every 5 days.
- Potassium permanganate. Spraying with a 1% solution.
The leaves turn yellow and curl upward due to lack of moisture: tomatoes try to reduce evaporation by reducing the area of the leaf plate.
Curling and yellowing occur when there is a lack of light: the midrib stretches, but the plate does not. In this case, it is necessary to provide each tomato bush with a sufficient amount of sunlight.
Sometimes the leaf blade curls if many stepsons were removed at the same time. In this case, the plant does not need help: after a while the leaves will straighten out on their own.
The same happens with a lack of microelements. Complex fertilizers will help. In addition, it is useful to sprinkle the ground with wood ash. You can use potassium nitrate - 10 liters of water will require 2 tbsp. l.
With a lack of zinc, the leaves become covered with gray-brown spots and curl upward. Over time they die. New leaves grow small and spotty. Spraying with zinc sulfate - 5 grams per bucket of water will help.
Rolling leaves inward
If tomatoes lack magnesium, young leaves turn yellow and curl inward. The veins remain green. Old leaves become spotted Brown, fall. The fruits ripen before they have time to grow.
Treatment - spraying with magnesium nitrate.
Appearance of spots
Stains different shapes and flowers, wilting and death of foliage and fruits may indicate damage to the plant by a fungal or bacterial disease.
For treatment, the drugs “Fitosporin”, “HOM”, “Mikosan” and others are used.
Preventive measures
It is important to comply with planting deadlines. If the seedlings have outgrown them while still in the cassettes, and their roots begin to die due to crowding, the dying process can continue when the tomatoes are transplanted to a permanent place. Such a plant cannot be saved.
Water the tomatoes at the root, being careful not to get on the stems and leaves.
In order for tomatoes to be strong and able to withstand unfavorable conditions, you need to strictly adhere to the feeding schedule.
To prevent diseases, tomato beds are treated in advance with potassium permanganate or preparations containing copper.
Any work with tomatoes should be carried out carefully, trying not to damage the plant through careless actions. All tools must be sharp and clean.
Caring for tomatoes determines their development. What do seedlings or adult tomato seedlings lack if their leaves begin to turn yellow? What can be done for this and what can I water the tomatoes with so that their leaves don’t turn yellow? We have selected key information to help your planted tomatoes recover.
Experienced gardeners react to yellowing of leaves, for example, in tomato seedlings, in one way - they increase the amount of lighting, because they know that the reason for leaf modifications may lie precisely in this. As you know, tomatoes are preferred open areas with plenty of lighting, but not with direct sun rays. Insufficient light for tomatoes can cause the leaves to turn yellow, they may become spotted and wilt.
In this case, given the sharp yellowing and lack of sunlight, tomatoes need to be watered with liquid nitrogen fertilizers and expose it to the sun. The lack of nitrogen will quickly be replenished and the leaves will reappear green color.
Absence useful substances affects the yellowing of tomato leaves
Gardeners often encounter the problem of tomato chlorosis, which occurs due to low magnesium content in the soil. Then yellowish-green spots begin to appear on the tomato leaves, which soon turn brown. As the damage increases, the leaves begin to fall off, after which the entire bush dies. It is necessary to feed the tomatoes with magnesium so that they do not turn yellow. 
Please note the shortage:
- Bora, due to which stepsons stop forming,
- Copper (in peat soils), which makes tomato leaves faded, lifeless, and shoots weak and underdeveloped,
- Calcium, which causes the top leaves of tomatoes to turn yellow. You can often notice deformation of still young leaves - they are covered with dots.
- Potassium, the symptoms of a deficiency of which are reflected in the yellowing of the leaves at the edges, subsequently they fall off.
- Phosphorus, when growth slows down, and the leaves curl at the edges and begin to turn yellow and then purple.
In this case, what should the gardener do to restore the tomato crops and rid them of yellow leaves? First of all, having determined which element is missing in fertilizing, we place bets on it. Can be applied either individually or as a complex.
Helps well in the fight against yellow leaves To restore tomatoes, use nitrogen and potassium fertilizers or potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in combination, after which you can water the tomatoes with microfertilizers. Organic tinctures and solutions for watering tomatoes to prevent their leaves from turning yellow can help, but they will not eliminate the main cause of the yellowing. Only mineral complex fertilizing after the main course of tomato restoration can bring significant results.
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