For summer residents and owners of private houses, the question of how to insulate a house from the outside and with what remains one of the most pressing. How to properly insulate a house? Proper insulation external walls not only creates a positive microclimate inside the home, but is also very economically beneficial. After all, the need to constantly use heating systems in cold weather is eliminated - therefore, you pay less for electricity. The second aspect is the constant “correct” temperature inside the room, the absence of humidity and, as a result, the elimination of the appearance of fungus, mold, and putrefactive processes.
You can insulate the outside of your house with your own hands using various modern materials. Initially, you need to look at what the walls of the house are made of, and then decide on the choice of insulation. Each insulation has its own fastening technology. External thermal insulation is also good because it does not reduce the volume of the room, does not provoke the accumulation of moisture, and prevents “sweating” of the walls. Let's consider the most commonly used insulation materials and the specifics of their installation, methods of insulating a house from the outside.
Foam insulation
Insulate the house from the outside with polystyrene foam - rational decision. This home insulation is good for everyone: it is lightweight, inexpensive, and does not require the use of any special technologies or tools.
Installation steps:
- First you need to prepare the surface, level it well. Polystyrene foam is produced in the form of slabs, therefore, the smoother it is outer part walls - the better the fit (no voids), the less labor costs it will be possible to insulate the house.
- The surface should be thoroughly cleaned and primed to eliminate any remaining glue or whitewash.
- Next comes the installation of external window sills (sills).
- Installing a starting bar - a base that will prevent the foam slabs from sliding down. This element also helps to lay the slabs evenly (keep the line).
- To insulate a house, laying foam insulation begins from the bottom of the wall; the accuracy of the installation of the bottom plate is responsible for the evenness of all subsequent rows. Universal adhesive for facade work is suitable for fastening the slabs, silicone sealant, glue for tiles, other varieties. Some craftsmen recommend securing the slabs with nails for greater reliability (3 days after installation). However, in this case, one should take into account the characteristics of the material from which the walls of the building were erected, whether it will be possible to use nails in this case.
As for houses made of timber, before insulating a wooden house from the outside, carefully examine the surface for holes and cracks, and then seal them with mineral wool, polyurethane foam or ecowool. There should be no drafts or air pockets.
Before we begin to describe the characteristics of another insulation material, it is worth clarifying some nuances regarding foam plastic. To the frequently asked question: is it possible to use it to insulate a house from the outside, the answer will be positive - yes, it is possible.
It is characterized by fairly good thermal insulation parameters, but there is an opinion that it is short-lived, has high flammability, and is environmentally unsafe.
Let's look at these factors in more detail:
- Polystyrene foam contains polymer additives that are truly flammable. However, danger can only arise when the installation of the slabs was carried out incorrectly, safety requirements and operating rules for a particular material were not followed. It is quite successfully used on different stages construction of houses, if all stages of the insulation “pie” are carried out correctly, then everything will be fine. Its combustion temperature is 491 degrees, which is almost twice as high as that of wood or paper-containing materials. Thus, in terms of flammability, it is no more dangerous wooden furniture or gender.
- It is difficult to voice an objective opinion regarding the durability of polystyrene foam, for the reason that it is relatively young. When choosing, pay attention to its manufacturer, as well as its quality. Most manufacturers guarantee its service life as insulation up to 70 years, taking into account temperature fluctuations from -40 to +40°C.
- Polyfoam is not poisonous, non-toxic, biologically neutral. There has never been a single case where a builder or a person constantly working with him became poisoned or fell ill. When contacting it, you do not need to wear respirators or protective gloves. It has a “breathing” effect - this allows you to maintain an acceptable level of humidity indoors.
- On forums dedicated to construction topics, you sometimes find information that foam insulation does not provide heat gain. This opinion is correct, but we should not forget that it perfectly retains heat in the house. If you decide to insulate the walls with it, then approximately 30% of the heat that previously “went” outside will remain indoors. It is very important, before insulating the outside walls of a private house with penoplex or polystyrene foam, to determine its thickness required specifically for your home.
Comparative characteristics of materials for insulation
Very often you can hear the question, what is the difference between polystyrene foam and penoplex? These thermal insulation materials are indeed practically the same: both have light weight, moisture resistant, do not rot, afraid of solvents, acetone. Both have a “related” origin - the method of foaming polystyrene. In appearance, their difference lies in different colors– penoplex has a yellow-orange color. But when the question arises, what is the best way to insulate the outside walls of a house with foam plastic or penoplex, the latter demonstrates higher density, moisture resistance, and air tightness.
If you live in an area of high humidity, then when choosing insulation for external walls it is better to opt for penoplex. The same mineral wool in such conditions is completely unsuitable for insulating walls and foundations.
A short list of penoplex characteristics:
- higher density, respectively, slightly reduced thermal insulation performance;
- higher moisture resistance;
- higher degree of flammability;
- It is treated with fire retardants, which is why its environmental friendliness suffers.
In turn, foam plastic:
- lower density (fragile);
- higher thermal stability (due to the loose structure);
- the degree of moisture resistance is lower (again, due to looseness);
- low sound insulation performance;
- performs better in combination with other more durable building materials.
Otherwise, they are almost the same, the choice is yours with what to insulate.
Now let's look at what is better to insulate the house from the outside, foam plastic or mineral wool? Again, the choice is always determined by many factors: price, climatic conditions, the material from which the house was built. For example, for wooden house Mineral wool (stone wool, glass wool) is optimal; it is a non-flammable building material. When working with mineral wool You should wear protective clothing, gloves, and a respirator.
If we consider the characteristics of both insulation from manufacturers, approximately the same thermal conductivity parameters will be indicated. In fact, this is not entirely true - foam plastic when insulated shows best results. It can only be compared with dense balsalt wool in slabs - one of the varieties of mineral wool. In terms of ease of installation, foam insulation also wins: no protection when working with the material, low weight, no dust during processing. Plus, insulating with polystyrene foam is cheaper than using mineral wool.
Mineral wool performs better at joints, cold bridges are practically eliminated, while polystyrene foam suffers from this. The problem is solved if for certain stages of work you choose sheets with an L-shaped edge. How to insulate the outside walls of a house if they have an uneven surface? Mineral wool is good because it can be cut into fragments of any shape and size - this is very convenient for insulation uneven walls. For foam insulation, the surface must be flat.
Sometimes they are used together, this technique is called multi-layer thermal insulation. In such cases, the foam should be located under the mineral wool. Mineral wool should act as the top layer.
How to insulate a block house from the outside?
Some modern building materials used to build houses initially have high thermal insulation properties. Often the manufacturer assures that a house built from this material will not need additional insulation. This is not always the case; let’s take, for example, aerated concrete - an excellent environmentally friendly building material with a cellular structure. It really has high thermal insulation performance, but it also needs insulation.
How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside? Due to their high vapor permeability, polystyrene foam or penoplex should be immediately excluded. If the air exchange between the interior and the exterior is disrupted, condensation collects at the boundary of the wall and the insulating material (which is why it is constantly wet). If aerated concrete gets wet, it will develop mold, fungi, and putrefactive processes. In this situation, polyurethane or mineral wool in the form of mats would be appropriate as insulation.
Initially, the surface of the wall is cleared of debris, then primed. Any unevenness is plastered with a special mixture.
Installation steps:
- Mineral wool in mats is attached to the treated surface with suitable adhesive mixtures, but in no case with dowels.
- Fiberglass is laid on top (silicate glue helps), it acts as a reinforcing layer.
- To insulate those places where window or doorways, insulation material mounted with reinforcing mesh or corners.
- Then comes the turn of plaster and finishing, for example, coloring.
The presence of high-quality waterproofing is extremely important for walls made of aerated concrete, since the porous structure actively absorbs moisture. When insulating such a house, you should exclude dowels and self-tapping screws, since any minor chips or cracks can lead to disastrous results for the entire structure. Suitable adhesive mixtures or chemical anchors may be used.
How to insulate a house made of timber from the outside?
Now let's look at how to insulate a house from wooden beam 150x150 outside. In theory, it would also be possible to use polystyrene foam or penoplex here, but there is one “but” - for wooden houses they are not suitable due to ventilation requirements. Mineral wool allows air to pass through well and at the same time is thermal insulation. In turn, polystyrene foam provides a reliable barrier to cold, but does not allow free air exchange, which is important for houses made of timber. If wooden walls insulate them, then after some time fungus and rot will appear on them, especially since in winter there will be nowhere to escape the condensation.
In addition to mineral wool, you will need waterproofing, a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with anchors, protective antifungal agent, which will need to pre-treat the surface of the walls.
The installation steps are as follows:
- wall preparation;
- laying the first waterproofing layer;
- installation of sheathing;
- laying mineral wool;
- installation of the second waterproofing layer;
- how to cover the insulation on the wall outside the house? The last stage is decorative plaster or sheathing with siding (or other suitable material).
Mineral wool should be placed tightly, without through gaps. Vents should be left below, near the foundation and above, under the eaves of the roof, to ensure air circulation and steam removal (so that condensation does not settle on the vapor barrier layer).
Base insulation
What is the best way to insulate the basement of a house from the outside? The base also takes over precipitation This means that the insulation for it must have reliable waterproof qualities. This part of the house can be insulated using foaming agents, mineral wool, and polystyrene foam. Each of them requires an individual approach and installation features. However, the best and easiest to work with is polystyrene - durable, strong, and moisture-resistant. By all parameters this material most beneficial among other insulation materials.
Before installing polystyrene boards, the surface must be treated with a primer. Fastening is carried out on top of the waterproofing layer, polyurethane glue or using bitumen-polymer mastic. It is important that the adhesive mixture does not contain solvents - this destroys the material. The thicker the slab you choose, the better the insulation will be.
Any house, no matter what it is built from, needs proper insulation. The answer to the question of how to insulate a house from the outside and with what will depend on many factors: the original material of the building, the atmospheric characteristics of the region, the cost of the insulation. In any case, it is better to spend money on high-quality insulation outside, rather than giving away heat to the street for years and heating the house around the clock.
If you have even the slightest opportunity to insulate the walls from the outside, do it. This is the most best option, because insulating walls from the inside is a headache. There are only two correct and more or less acceptable options, and one takes up a lot of space, and the second requires significant costs during the winter. There is also a method suitable for insulating balconies and loggias. And that's all for now. All other options with polyurethane foam, liquid-ceramic thermal insulation, penofol and other materials only bring dampness and mold.
Insulating walls from the inside: what is the problem
Anyone who insulated the external walls of a house or apartment with inside- from the premises - they are faced with the problem of the appearance of fungi, mold and high humidity. These consequences are natural and appear regardless of the type of insulation that was used. You can get rid of moisture and fungi only by removing the internal insulation, making major renovation walls, treating them with antifungal compounds and plastering.
Let's look at the reasons. The so-called dew point is to blame. This is the line where warm and cold air meet and where condensation results.
The figure on the left shows the situation with the dew point if the wall is not insulated. It is located somewhere in the thickness of the wall, depending on the temperature and humidity, it shifts first to one side, then to the other, but is always quite far from inner surface. In this case, moisture accumulates in the wall and freezes. In the spring, as it thaws, it evaporates, and evaporates into the atmosphere. If dampness is observed in the room, it is for a short time and at the level of sensations.
The photo in the center shows a situation where the wall is insulated from the inside. In this case, condensation falls in the insulation, or, if this is not possible (expanded polystyrene is used, for example), at the boundary of the insulation and the wall. Even if the wall freezes and the condensation turns into ice, in the spring it will begin to melt, the insulation, wall material and finishing will become wet. Since there is a large distance to the outer surface facing the street, moisture dries very poorly in this case, which “comes out” in the form of dampness, mold and all the accompanying delights.
And the third option is to insulate the wall from the outside. In this case, the dew point is located in the insulation. How to get it out of there is another story (make a ventilated facade or choose the right vapor permeability of materials), but for our topic it is important to understand that in in this case the wall inside the room will definitely be dry and warm.
To summarize, we can say, if possible, insulate from the outside. Insulation of walls from the inside of premises has to be done only in a few cases:
- if they are not allowed to be insulated from the outside (the building is a historical monument or prohibited by local authorities);
- if the wall goes into the joint between two buildings;
- the wall opens into the elevator shaft.
But before you start this work, thoroughly inspect the floor, ceiling, and windows. Sometimes most of the heat escapes not through the walls, but through these surfaces, and it is easier to insulate them (in the sense of less hassle with the dew point).
Correct internal insulation of walls in a house or apartment
There are only two ways to insulate indoor walls from the inside and avoid problems with dampness:
- recreating multilayer wall(place a half-brick wall with insulation at some distance);
- Heat the wall and then insulate it.
These options work, but, as you can see, they “eat up” a significant amount of space and cost a lot of money. In each specific case, it is necessary to consider what kind of insulation and how much is needed, but the wall pie remains the same.
Second wall
At some distance from the main wall, a second wall 10-12 cm thick is installed. Between the two walls, a layer of insulation, which is required for these conditions, is attached to the inner wall. At the same time, up to outer wall There should be a ventilation gap of at least 3 cm. In total, this entire structure will be 20-25 cm away from the main wall. It will “eat up” a considerable area.
As you can see, in this case the dew point can be located inside the insulation or on the inner surface of the wall facing the street. To be able to remove the formed moisture, you can do forced ventilation by installing one or two exhaust fans.
Since in this case the insulation will get wet, it is necessary to choose one that is not afraid of moisture. These are polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, foam glass. You can also use some types stone wool, but only those that are not afraid of moisture (there are some).
Thermal insulation material must be fastened simultaneously with the construction of the walls. They laid it out to a certain height and secured the thermal insulation. It’s inconvenient to work, but there is no other choice.
Electrical heating
The idea of this method is that when internal insulation concrete or brick wall move the dew point inside the wall. To do this, it must be heated. The easiest way is to attach an electric heated floor mat. At some distance from it, insulation is installed, on top of which there is a finishing layer.
In this case, there are no problems with moisture removal, and much less space is required to install the system: from 8 cm (with a ventilation gap of 3 cm and an insulation thickness of 5 cm).
With this method, the thermal insulation material can be of any kind. To install it, first a sheathing is made, then a counter-lattice, and then a suitable insulation is attached to it.
Option for insulating a balcony from the inside
In the case of a loggia and a balcony, the situation is often completely different. If the authorities do not allow the installation of a wall, they demand that the existing reinforced concrete screen be left, it is cut off from warm air thorough thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS).
In this case, it is better to make the insulation excessive than at least slightly insufficient. The total thickness is divided into two layers. They are laid without a gap (preferably with locks), and so that the seams of the first layer overlap the sheet of the second. There should be no through access of warm air to the screen.
It is necessary to approach the issue of insulating the floor and ceiling of the loggia/balcony very carefully and ensure tightness at the junction of them with the walls. Also pay attention to how the glazing will be installed: there may also be problem areas: joint with the screen, walls, insulation of the part above the frames. All of them must be well finished, excluding the possibility of contact of warm/cold air. In this case there will be no problems. Even if .
You can learn how to insulate a house from many sources; construction teams specializing in this will also tell you a lot of things in detail. But all this - thermal insulation according to the rules - requires a lot of money.
Very often it is necessary to insulate old house or country house perhaps not so durable, and not very beautiful, but as cheaply and quickly as possible. The most cheap insulation, by the way, from natural materials that were used by our grandfathers...
Cheap home insulation does not mean poor quality
You need to decide to what extent to insulate the house. For example, to make it a little warmer, or noticeably warmer, or to insulate it so that heating becomes 3 times cheaper (for example), and in winter the temperature inside rises to +25 degrees without stress on the heating side. Those. thermal insulation measures will be economically feasible and will quickly pay for themselves.
It is advantageous to insulate using the latter option, i.e. the highest quality. And half-hearted solutions are a waste of time, effort and resources.
Therefore, you will have to forget about all sorts of old blankets, bedding, and 5 mm thick penofols as insulation. The thickness of the insulation should be measured in tens of centimeters, then it will be warm, and saving on energy resources will “inflate your pocket.”
But how can you insulate a house at an extremely low cost? If you buy cotton insulation in hypermarkets, it won’t be cheap; if you replace windows and doors, it will be even more expensive. Let's try to make sure that the insulation is as inexpensive as possible.
Everything that opens and is transparent should be sealed and thermally insulated first.
The lion's share of heat can escape through windows and doors due to cracks and drafts. Insulating a house should begin by installing seals where anything opens. Nowadays it is not difficult to choose an adhesive-based sealant. 
It is possible that there are simply gaps in the frames, trays or along their perimeter. Then all of them need to be sealed with sealant or in combination with fabric, and from the street side too.
Very often there are gaps where the glass meets the frames. Scotch tape won't help much here, although you can use it. But it’s better to take out the glass and put it on sealant.
New windows and doors are the best solution
The issue of windows and doors is the basis of heat conservation. The best solution is to insert modern frames with double-glazed windows, but this action will be the most expensive. 
You need to think about which windows can be closed from the outside for the winter. plastic film so that illumination and visibility to the street are not greatly affected. The film turns into a “homemade double-glazed window” if you stretch it 1.5 - 2 cm from the glass, and at the same time make the connection with the frame airtight. To help - glazing beads, small nails, possibly sealant, after which heat leakage through this window will be reduced significantly.
Old doors, especially metal ones, are a serious bridge of cold (a place where heat escapes from the house). And if the outline of the door is already sealed, then all that remains is to stick 5 cm of dense foam plastic on top of the door leaf. As a last resort, nail a cotton blanket or felt at least 3 cm thick.
Natural heat insulators can be stored on the ceiling
You shouldn’t bother with wall insulation if the issue with attic floor and floors. Walls are not so decisive, and besides, they won’t work out cheaply. And on a horizontal surface you can put any insulation. 
To insulate ceiling and floors as cheaply as possible, all that remains is to collect fallen leaves from all over the area, and also, if possible, straw and hay.
But these organic materials must be mixed with crumbly lime to prevent biological destruction and reduce rodent cravings to settle in such a comfortable environment. However, it is no secret that the hayloft in the attic has been used since ancient times as...
Inexpensive - polystyrene foam for the attic
A layer needs to be stored in the attic natural insulation at least 35 cm thick to get the effect. Can it be replaced? Yes, the cheapest option is to replace it with polystyrene foam with a layer of 15 cm or more for a temperate climate.
You can use the cheapest one with the lowest density. But it needs to be laid in several layers, with offset seams between the sheets in the layers, so that cold bridges do not arise along the cracks. If you cover the foam with plywood and then a board, you can walk on it...
When insulating the ceiling of a house, a vapor barrier is needed. Otherwise, we risk getting the insulation, even the foam, wet, because the steam will condense just inside its layer. Therefore, first of all, the attic needs to be completely covered with plastic film. The same goes for any layer in the attic.
Placement of floor insulation
Carrying out work on floors is not fundamentally different from ceilings. First, a vapor barrier on the side of the house, then 10 cm of polystyrene foam or 25 cm of natural insulation. Just how to place it all? 
The insulation of finished floors depends entirely on their design. The low underground is covered with insulation on waterproofed soil. Otherwise, the insulation is placed between the joists on the panels, ventilated from below, and insulated from the side of the house by water vapor.
If it is not possible to open the floors, then all that remains is to lay something on top of the existing wooden floors. Then make a double floor? But it will be more expensive. "Rags" won't help. Even felt 1 cm thick will help little. But in a desperate situation, this also applies.
The cheapest and easiest way is to simply lay polyethylene on the existing floor, then the same foam plastic but with a higher density of 30 kg/m cube 5 cm thick in two layers with bandaging of the seams, and simply lay a platform on it from tongue-and-groove joined boards. But at the same time, the lower old floor will quickly dry out, especially if the ventilation from below is poor...
If the loss of room height when laying a new layer on the floor is not acceptable, then maybe it’s still worth doing major insulation of the floors from underground, at least in one room to begin with...?
What is a pile?
Why did they make the pile? At least a quarter of the heat leaving the house was saved by heaps - stored hay, straw, under the boards around the perimeter of the house. This reduced heat loss through the walls, foundation and floors of the house. Now the rubble can be partially replaced by a blind area insulated with extruded polystyrene foam.
Thermal insulation of the ground around the house and the foundation itself is not only a reduction in heat loss, but also measures aimed at preserving the house and increasing its durability. You can learn more about measures against soil heaving on these pages.
All that remains is to insulate the walls, but how?
If we are talking about wooden house, then it’s most likely not worth insulating the walls. 20 cm of dry wood is equivalent in thermal insulation to 5 cm of polystyrene foam. Almost the norm for walls in temperate climate. But if the walls are stone, brick, reinforced concrete, then you need to insulate them.
The problem is that you won’t be able to build walls cheaply—you need modern insulation, which needs to be fixed to vertical surface and protect from atmospheric influences. The insulation must be more vapor-transparent than the wall, therefore, for wood and foam concrete, mineral wool is needed, and for brick and concrete, ordinary polystyrene foam can be used.
You can insulate the walls yourself, so you will only have to spend money on materials. If you don't rush, you can insulate the walls in more than one season. But it needs to be done efficiently, in compliance with technology.
You can find out how the walls of a house are thermally insulated on this resource. Here, for example, let us recall key points How to inexpensively cover a wall with foam.
Sequence of fencing walls with foam plastic
A short review about inexpensive home insulation provides only primary knowledge about the technologies used. During the work process, many questions will arise that cannot be addressed in one article. You need to know that thermal insulation measures in themselves are not complicated, so you can take on the task yourself, which means saving at least half of the money costs.
The process has its supporters and ardent opponents. In their own way, both of them are true, it all depends on the situation. But before choosing this particular type of insulation, you need to know which insulation is suitable and study the nuances of performing insulation work.
Insulating the walls indoors means making your home comfortable and cozy for living. This type of heat saving is unconventional and is usually used. But there are situations when there is no other way out.
This option can also be considered in apartment building when insulation interior walls the only way to insulate a room. This process will help prevent the formation of fungus in the room.
Disadvantages of internal thermal insulation
This method has its drawbacks, which is why it has many opponents.
Problems with internal thermal insulation walls, the following arise:
- with external thermal insulation, the walls of the building are protected from the cold, which cannot be achieved with insulation from the inside. The base is in contact with environment, cracks may appear on it;
- the occurrence of condensation. With internal heat conservation, it moves behind load-bearing structure and is formed between the insulator and the surface. The result may be the development of fungal formations that will be difficult to notice;
- reduction in area. Modern heat insulators have excellent characteristics, but have not yet come up with such material that would take up little space. At the moment, with insulation work, the room will become 10 cm smaller on each side.
Before making a decision on internal insulation, it is worth weighing all the disadvantages and considering the advantages; this is the only way to avoid errors and shortcomings during installation.
Thermal insulation materials
This technology allows the use of various thermal insulation materials for walls, which have their pros and cons.
The most popular thermal insulators:
- wood fiber board;
- ecowool;
- glass wool
These insulators are available everywhere and are inexpensive. Let's look at the characteristics of each type of insulator that can be used as insulation from the inside.
Penoplex and foam plastic
A productive and affordable heat insulator, which is very often used for insulating apartments and high-rise buildings. It is enough to take a slab 5 cm thick. No need special tool, and installation is not difficult.
But this material has disadvantages:
- flammability;
- low strength;
- vapor tightness - if not done working ventilation in the apartment, otherwise it will turn into a greenhouse.
Ventilation must be forced - this may require additional costs.
This thermal insulation option is only suitable for concrete, brick, and foam block structures, since wood covered with this heat-insulating material loses its ability to “breathe.”
Mineral wool
A very common heat insulator. It is widely used in apartments and industrial buildings; in addition, it is used as a filler in plasterboard partitions, as it has excellent soundproofing properties.
Mineral wool is inexpensive and has excellent vapor barrier. For an apartment or house, it is better to purchase rigid basalt wool slabs; they are easy to install. Another advantage of the material is its non-flammability.
But you should use this material with great caution if the walls in the apartment are damp, basalt wool is hygroscopic, and when wet it completely loses its insulating properties. Therefore, before laying it on the walls, you need to arrange a waterproofing layer, and before finishing cladding, tighten the vapor barrier.
For waterproofing work, it is better to use membranes; they are vapor permeable and will not interfere with the “breathing” of external walls.
Wood fiber boards
This material has a number of positive characteristics:
- good heat conservation and sound insulation;
- not afraid of temperature changes;
- moisture resistant;
- easy to process and install;
- Rodents are not bred in it.
Often this material is used specifically for exterior finishing, it is treated with special impregnations that can be harmful to human health.
Foil insulation
Technological processes do not stand still, so innovative developments in the field of insulation and construction are constantly appearing on the market. This new product is a foil insulator.
The material is a layer of foamed polyester, onto which a layer of thin aluminum foil is glued. The property of this material is that heat is reflected from the foil layer and directed into the house.
Many manufacturers produce polyester with a self-adhesive layer, so it is very convenient to work with this material; just carefully prepare the surface and stick the insulation onto the wall.
Ecowool
The material appeared on the market quite recently, but immediately gained popularity among ordinary people due to a lot of advantages:
- naturalness and safety. The thermal insulator is produced by processing recycled cellulose and is therefore non-toxic;
- excellent thermal insulation performance;
- air tightness;
- fine-fiber structure;
- durability;
- does not shrink.
But, despite positive characteristics, the material has several significant disadvantages that prevent its widespread use:
- impossibility of installing it yourself. The material is applied by wet spraying using special equipment. For insulation you will have to invite specialists;
- when vertical spraying, the laying of the material must be carried out in stages, since there is a possibility of the layer slipping;
- flammability;
- the hardening time of the mass is 24 hours, subject to good ventilation;
- price;
- the need to equip the frame.
Internal thermal insulation of walls using ecowool is carried out strictly on wooden lathing, the pitch of which can vary from 60 cm to 1 meter. The frame is constructed so that when sprayed the material does not slide off the vertical surface.
Glass wool
This heat insulator has been used in construction for a very long time. The main component of this material is fiberglass.
The use of glass wool is due to the following characteristics:
- high sound insulation qualities;
- flexibility - due to its structure, glass wool can take any shape;
- fire resistance;
- immunity to chemical influences;
- affordable price;
- breathability.
But it’s worth talking about the disadvantages:
- the material is not resistant to mechanical stress, therefore it is mounted only on the frame;
- has a high degree of shrinkage over time;
- service life is 10 years, then glass wool loses its thermal insulation properties;
- destroyed by sun exposure.
Despite the disadvantages, the material is very often used for insulating rooms, as it is low cost and easy to install.
When working with glass wool, you need to use protective equipment - glasses, a mask, gloves and thick clothing, since small, sharp particles of the material cause severe itching when they come into contact with the skin.
How to choose the right material for indoor insulation
Before installing wall insulation from the inside with your own hands, we select the right insulator that meets the following requirements:
- safety for humans;
- environmental friendliness;
- durability;
- fire resistance;
- vapor permeability;
- low thermal conductivity;
- moisture resistance.
When internal insulation of the house is installed even before installation begins, a good ventilation system, otherwise the indoor microclimate will become unfavorable over time.
Comparative table of thermal insulation materials:
| Name of material | Density | Thermal conductivity coefficient | Vapor permeability | Moisture absorption |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Foam plastic | 40 | 0, 037 | 0,05 | 2 |
| Penoplex | 28 | 0,028 | 0,006 | 0,2 |
| Wood fiber | 250-400 | 0,045-0,09 | 1 | 12 |
| Minvata | 30-220 | 0,07 | 0,38-0,60 | 70 |
| Ecowool | 35-65 | 0,032-0,042 | 0,67 | - |
| Glass wool | 10-50 | 0,029-0,052 | 0,5-0,6 | 10-15 |
Technology for insulating walls from the inside
Experts advise using insulation of the room from the inside only in special cases, For example:
- if the apartment is located above the second floor, and industrial climbers need to be involved for external insulation;
- in new buildings, if it is not possible to rent facade finishing and make external thermal insulation;
- if the insulation of the facade disrupts the architectural ensemble.
Methods for insulating walls from the inside:
- on the frame;
- on glue.
The first method does not require careful leveling of the bearing surface. Besides this facing material It’s very easy to attach to the frame, so if you plan to build walls from plasterboard after insulation, then you don’t need to install the sheathing. If after insulation you plan to plaster the surface, then there is no need for a frame. In any case, the method of fastening the material directly depends on the further finishing of the walls.
Insulation on the frame
Like a wall from the inside of a room on a frame? This thermal insulation of walls from the inside is a labor-intensive process, but more reliable. Thanks to the frame, fragile material is not exposed mechanical impact, this is especially true if thermal insulation material foam is selected.
There is no need to level the wall, but before installation it is worth clearing the surface of the plaster, if it has peeled off, dirt, dust and covering it with an antiseptic compound.
The frame is being constructed aluminum profiles or bars. Fastening is done using dowels or self-tapping screws, depending on the material from which the base is made. The pitch of the racks should be equal to the width of the material, for example, if soft insulation is chosen for walls inside the walls, then the distance is reduced by two centimeters; when using polystyrene foam or polystyrene, it is exactly 60 cm.
If a decision is made to use wooden elements, then they should be treated with impregnation, which will prevent rotting and the formation of fungus.
As soon as the frame is ready, a heat insulator is placed in the gaps, and all seams between the material are sealed with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, it is cut flush. After this, you can begin the final finishing.
Thermal insulation of indoor walls on the frame is made with the following materials:
- glass wool;
- basalt insulation;
- foam;
- wood fiber.
Any of the above materials can be mounted using lathing on the walls, except for foil insulation.
Installation of insulation with glue
This type of installation requires careful preparation of the wall plane before insulation.
They are cleaned of dust and contaminants and degreased. Further work proceeds according to the following algorithm:
- After cleaning, the walls must be leveled and repaired. The cracks are filled with putty, large protrusions are knocked down, and the depressions are sealed with mortar;
- all surfaces are treated with an antiseptic or primer with antimicrobial action;
- the primer is applied in two layers;
- after drying, you can begin installing the slabs with glue; it is applied to the wall and to the material using a notched trowel;
- the glue will dry for 2-3 days;
- as soon as the surface dries, you need to perform additional fixation with umbrella dowels.
Do not forget that the installation of layers of material is carried out offset. In this case, it is necessary to waterproof the base surface and vapor barrier the insulation itself after installation.
The installation of insulation with glue has its limitations, since only dense pits are used for this, for example:
- foam;
- wood fiber;
- penoplex;
- forged insulation.
As soon as all the installation of the heat insulator is completed, finishing begins.
Finish coatings
Usually, when installing heat-saving boards with glue, they are plastered using a forming mesh for gypsum composition, and fiberglass for putty. These measures will prevent cracking of the finish coating.
After all the plastering and putty work is completed and the walls have dried, we clean the surface with a fine abrasive mesh and paint it with a water-based emulsion of the desired shade.
The mistake of many novice, inexperienced builders or too economical owners of premises is the desire to ensure the preservation high temperature V winter period by insulating the house from the inside.
Before starting work, craftsmen are obliged to warn the owners why it is impossible to insulate the house from the inside, and what consequences await them in the end: unpredictable climate change in a confined space, high humidity and violation of the integrity of the walls, fungus, mold and even small puddles from large amounts of condensation.
Why can you insulate a house from the outside but not from the inside?
Preserving living space and reducing the difference between external and internal temperature fluctuations, preventing dry air and the formation of increased moisture makes external insulation more expedient. Why is it better and how to insulate a house from the outside:
- polystyrene foam Retains heat, prevents moisture, but is vulnerable to direct sun rays. Highly flammable;
- fibrous mineral wool. Good vapor permeability, sound insulation and fire resistance;
- penoplex. It has minimal thermal conductivity, is not susceptible to moisture and is resistant to combustion;
- liquid polyurethane foam insulation. Prevents the formation of condensation and humidity, does not form cracks, the material is resistant to mold and fungal infections;
- basalt slabs. Contain a sufficient amount of formaldehyde, which repels small rodents and quickly covers required area, not susceptible to sudden temperature changes, eliminates rotting and inflammation. Provides warmth and sound insulation.
The outer surface of log cabins is treated a little differently. Eco-friendly natural material quickly absorbs moisture, which means it requires more careful and reliable protection. To insulate a house made of timber from the outside, glass wool, modern polymers and felt are sufficient.
But even qualified specialists in some cases refuse to work because of customers who have absolutely no idea why you can’t insulate a house from the inside:
- the area of the room is reduced;
- danger of high humidity interior space and insulation. The heating temperature of the walls may differ from room temperature, condensation begins to form, fungus and mold appear;
- ventilation disturbance;
- decrease in strength and thermal insulation characteristics walls
Improperly carried out insulation will entail changes in the facade of the building, large expenses, and an insufficiently ventilated room will also provoke diseases of the respiratory system.
Is it possible and why not to insulate a house from the inside?
Do any work yourself construction work, which relate to changes in premises, should not be done. Only an experienced specialist will determine how to insulate a house from the inside:
- warm seam Ideal option for a wooden house. The sealant is placed only between the logs on the ceiling and facade. Linen tape and felt are also used. As a last resort, the seams can simply be caulked;
- mineral wool. An environmentally friendly and inexpensive product, it provides noise insulation and retains heat in houses made of log house, not affected by fungus. Among the disadvantages, one can note the need for additional installation of a special vapor barrier on top of the mineral wool. It provides quick drying when the internal material gets wet, but does not eliminate the associated problem of shrinkage when the humidity is high;
- expanded polystyrene. A lightweight and moisture-resistant polymer analogue of synthetic foam. It is susceptible to fungal diseases, so before using it, the walls are pre-treated with protective agents. Walls and ceilings are cleaned and leveled, joints are foamed. TO wooden surfaces and does not apply to log houses;
- liquid polyurethane foam. Requires a pre-fabricated frame, which will fill the material. After insulation, you will need to plaster the ceiling and walls using a special mesh.
All materials that are usually used to insulate a room before the onset of cold weather have a lot of disadvantages and side effects. It is a pity that many people do not want to accept why it is impossible to insulate a house from the inside.
