When the house is built, you should also take care of the decoration of the facade, which should be not only beautiful, but also functional. Today there is a huge variety of materials that protect the walls of a frame house from moisture, natural precipitation, and wind. The most common material today is façade panels.
Installation of facade panels
The surface on which the facade panels are attached must be clean (free from fungal and mold formations), as well as smooth and free of cracks - they must first be eliminated.
A sheathing made of treated or treated with an anti-corrosion spray metal, such as zinc, is installed around the perimeter. 
The formed frame creates and provides a flat surface. Insulation or insulation is added to the resulting voids. This is necessary for the so-called heat shield effect; it effectively retains heat indoors.
Installation of the first façade panel
WITH 
the tartar strip is attached at the lowest point of the building; it is necessary to leave 10 cm on each edge of the wall in order to mount the outer corners there. It is important that its position remains horizontal, since the remaining panels will be oriented towards it.
Sometimes you need to trim the panels of the 1st row; for this you can use circular saw, in such situations the starting profile is not used: the panels are only fastened through the front side with 5 nails or more, if necessary. A separate hole is drilled for each nail.
Subsequent rows facade panels should be installed with close spacing to allow the material room to expand.
Often the top row also needs trimming; do not violate the integrity of the protective layer in this case, otherwise the facade panels will not only look ugly, but also their specifications will get worse.
Types of facade panels and specifics of their installation
- Fiber panels and Japanese fiber panels
Consist of reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are characterized by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.
Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we are talking about 14 mm panels), or to the supporting frame of the building (16 mm panels and larger). Thin panels are fastened with galvanized screws, thicker ones are secured with clamps.
Fiber panels are installed on a frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall with brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on frame structure at the time of precipitation). Between the cells of the frame is placed, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
Additional workflow levels: the base ebb is fixed to the frame (5-10 cm above the blind area);
Clamps for installing slabs are placed on all vertical guides.
A joint strip is made to correctly position the slabs relative to each other.
Fiberboards are put on the clamps located below and secured with fasteners. All joints are processed and painted in the color of the panels.
- Installation of plastic panels.
To install them, it is also necessary to remove the previous finishing of the house and remove any unevenness. Then the walls need to be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. It can be wooden or metal, it is reinforced in the area and. The grid cells are also filled with insulation and film.
The specificity of the work is that plastic panels mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting locks and attaching them to self-tapping screws.
- Installation metal panels. Facade (siding)
They are distinguished by an increased level of strength and polymer protective coating. requires a metal sheathing, which is attached to the walls with perforated hangers.
Insulation is placed in the cells, but it is necessary to provide for such an aspect as the possibility of a facade, otherwise the condensation formed under the metal will begin to destroy the wooden surface.
Mounted from the bottom corner.
Installation begins from the left corner in the starting profile, the clamps are fixed onto the spikes, to which the next thermal panel is attached.
- Sandwich panels. Installation. Frame house facade
This name is no coincidence, since the panel contains 3 layers, one of which is insulation.
Such panels are not easy to install alone: first, a U-profile is attached, into which the first panel is inserted, and a frame from the corner of the building. Everything is leveled, the slab is attached directly to the frame.
Among well-known siding manufacturers, the Deke Extrusion company is distinguished high quality products traditional for German manufacturers. The division operating in Russia consists of 3 factories that successfully produce various facade and roofing materials.
One of the most promising materials that is gaining popularity and is actively developing in production is, or, as it is more often called recently, facade panels.
They have high functional and decorative potential, making it possible to make the appearance of the house completely updated without adding significant changes into the design. The growing popularity of the material deserves a detailed discussion of its qualities and installation procedures.
Docke façade panels are an external cladding material, which was created for finishing the plinths or lower levels of buildings. In practice, it turned out that basement siding looks much more attractive if it is used to decorate the entire facade of the house.
The result is a high-quality imitation of natural stone finishing that can radically transform the appearance of the simplest home. Such qualities prompted the name to be changed basement siding, which for some time now has been called “facade panels”.
The main distinctive quality of facade panels is the imitation of brick or stone masonry, whereas it repeats different variants wooden walls.
The level of imitation turned out to be very high, since casts from natural fragments of walls made of one or another type of finishing or building stone, brick, etc. are used to make molds.
The company's product range includes several lines of material:
- BERG (rock). The material replicates the masonry of blocks hewn by hand from natural rock. The line has 6 color options, from light gray to dark brown.
- BURG (castle). The basis for the development of this direction was ancient legends telling about knightly castles. The material was created to imitate the appearance of fortress walls, solid and durable. The collection has 10 color options.
- STEIN (under the stone). There are 5 color options for the panels, representing the masonry of the hewn sandstone walls.
- EDEL (noble). The panels have the texture of rock masonry of heterogeneous size, the line is made in 5 color options, repeating the color of noble stones - jasper, rhodonite, quartz, onyx and corundum.
- STERN (star). Set of realistic looking blocks different sizes, adjusted to each other. High accuracy transferring the texture of the stone, there are 6 color options.
All lines have their own panel configuration, since this is required by the specifics of the simulated stone. The differences are not too significant; they are mainly small differences in linear dimensions and, as a consequence, in the area and weight of the panels.
Features of panel installation
Polypropylene facade panels Deke have technical characteristics close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.
Accordingly, the conditions installation work, in particular, the mandatory observance of thermal clearances is equally relevant for Deke panels.
The fact is that a solid sheathing sheet, being tightly assembled without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and go in waves. In some cases, destruction of nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base using nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.
To avoid damage or disturbance appearance sheathing must comply with temperature gaps - gaps between all contacting elements of the sheathing. This condition is especially relevant for elements that require longitudinal joining (for example, starting strip, J-bar, etc.).
For the same reasons, nails and screws cannot be driven in/tightened all the way. About 1 mm is left between the head and the part to allow movement when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips have an oblong shape.
The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated - installation of vertical elements (for example, corner strips). For them, a self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The remaining screws are arranged according to the general pattern.
NOTE!
The size of the temperature gap depends on the installation temperature. For a hot summer day, 2-3 mm is enough, for a cold winter day - at least 6 mm.
Accessories
In addition to ordinary panels, installation of cladding requires additional elements. Components, or, as they are also called, additional elements, without which it will be difficult to sheathe a house (photo below):
- Starting bar. This is a special rail with a groove for installing the bottom row of panels.
- J-bar. Serves to complete the cladding fabric, or for any design of the junction of the fabric to other planes (for example, when decorating window openings, it limits the window frame from the side of the window block).
- Corner profile. Element used for finishing external corners. For Deke panels, installation of corner profiles is much easier, since they are mounted on top of the panels on both sides of the corner and cover them. They do not have a typical groove into which the sides of the panels are inserted. To ensure reliable installation, there is a starting corner profile that serves as a reference point for the corner profile.
- Border. Used to decorate the end sections of the canvas, overhangs or other areas. To install it use
- Base bar. Used for decorating internal corners, attaching borders, etc.
- Facade window profile. Serves as a support strip when finishing window or doorways.
- Internal corner. Used to decorate the internal corners of the surface.
The list of additional elements for Deke façade panels is much shorter than is the case with conventional types of siding, and the installation technology is simpler and clearer, which is also an advantage of the material.
Tool preparation
To install the panels you will need certain tools:
- Tape measure, metal ruler, folding meter.
- Building level.
- Screwdriver, screwdriver.
- Pliers.
- Hacksaw with small tooth, Bulgarian.
- Metal scissors.
Installation of a ventilated facade
A ventilated facade is a method of cladding a house in which an air gap of at least 3 cm is provided between the outer layer - the cladding - and the inner layers - the wall, insulation and waterproofing.
This lining device has an important property - water vapor is removed from the thickness wall materials, has the ability to freely exit the insulation. To put it simply, there is a constant opportunity to dry the wall and insulation.
This option allows you to increase the service life of all materials that make up the thickness of the wall and ensures high-quality performance of the insulation. For facade panels, a ventilated facade is the usual type of installation, although installation without it is possible, directly on wooden walls.
Selecting lathing for panels and its installation
The lathing for the panels is load-bearing structure . Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, the material chosen for the work is sufficiently strong and durable.
The traditional type of lathing is a system of wooden planks. This option is acceptable, but requires straight, dried planks, which should be soaked with an antiseptic immediately after installation to avoid rot, mold, etc.
More a good option the construction of metal sheathing is recognized. Metal guides are used for plasterboard sheets. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden blocks.
In some cases, metal and wooden planks, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.
Installation procedure:
- Cleaning the wall outside the house, complete surface preparation— putty, (if necessary), primer, drying the surface.
- Marking the wall under load-bearing elements — brackets or straight guides.
- The sheathing for Deke panels has both horizontally and vertically directed strips. Therefore, if you need to install insulation under it, you need to build your own sheathing. It is needed to install supporting strips for panels on top of it.
- Installation of insulation is carried out between the strips of the primary sheathing. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
- A load-bearing frame is installed on the primary sheathing strips. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure the required size ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners and sides of panels. Horizontal ones serve as a supporting surface for starting and J-bars, upper sides panels, other elements of the canvas.
- The pitch of the horizontal strips corresponds to the height of the panel, the pitch of the vertical strips corresponds to half its length.
The main task when installing the sheathing is to ensure that the sizes of the panels and the distances between the planks match, and also to ensure the presence of a flat plane, which allows you to obtain the correct geometry of the sheathing sheet.
How the panels are fastened
The panels are attached to the sheathing strips taking into account temperature changes, i.e. not tightly, but with a gap between the screw head and the part of about 1 mm. Right installed element Can be moved freely left and right within the width of the mounting holes.
The screw head must be at least 10 mm in diameter, its length must be at least 30 mm. You cannot drill holes for self-tapping screws yourself; you must use standard mounting holes and components.
CAREFULLY!
When joining panels, they should be inserted into the grooves until they come into contact with special stops, they ensure thermal clearances. Installation work must not be carried out at temperatures below -15°, since the material becomes brittle and can break under load.
DIY installation instructions
Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:
- Installation of the starting bar. The lowest point of the canvas is determined, a horizontal line is drawn along the level, all corner starting strips are installed along it, after which the ordinary starting strips are installed.
- Internal corners, if any, can be formed using a J-bar or a specialized internal corner profile. To do this, pre-install the base strip with a shelf to the corner so that the panels on one side of the corner fit into the groove, and on the other they are attached over the nail strip. When the panels are installed, the inside corner will be inserted into the groove of the base strip and cover the joint of the planes.
- Facing is carried out in the only possible direction - from left to right and from bottom to top.. the first panel is trimmed to obtain an even side line, inserted into the groove of the starting strip, aligned with the corner and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next panel it is inserted into the side grooves of the previous one, from below into the starting strip, and secured from above with self-tapping screws. The entire row is laid in this way. The following rows are mounted in a similar way.
- Frames of window and door openings are mounted in the same way as corners. A J-bar is used to connect the design of the slopes and the window (door) frame.
- The canvas is completed by installing a J-bar, forming the top edge of the panels.
Installation of facade panels for exterior finishing At home it is simple and can be done independently. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for carrying out work and constantly remember the need to maintain temperature gaps between parts, and do not tighten the screws all the way.
Fulfilling these requirements will allow you to complete the work with high quality and obtain a solid and stylish appearance of the house, imitating masonry at a relatively low cost.
Useful video
Technology for installing façade panels using the example of Docke products:
In contact with
One of the most practical ways façade finishing is panel cladding. Their main advantage is ease of installation, which means that Finishing work everyone can. Facade panels perfectly protect walls from wind and rain, help retain heat in the house, and at the same time have a very attractive aesthetic appearance.
Nowadays there are a lot of cladding panels and slabs made from a variety of materials on sale. Siding is very popular, and the demand for polymer, fiber cement and porcelain tiles is growing. There are even wooden options with enhanced protective properties.
| Name | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Manufacturing material – sheet aluminum, galvanized steel. Base thickness 0.5-0.6 mm, panel width 226 mm. Polyester is used as a protective coating. Service life is about 30 years. The panels are fireproof, waterproof, and do not fade in the sun. |
| Manufacturing material – polyvinyl chloride. Panel width 200-250 mm, base thickness 1.2 mm. The panels are waterproof, rot-resistant, non-toxic, and do not fade in the sun. Service life is about 30 years. Wide variety of colors and textures, imitation of natural materials. |
| Polyurethane foam base and outer layer of clinker tiles. Panel thickness from 30 to 100 mm, low water absorption, high frost resistance, resistance to aggressive substances and rot. It has low thermal conductivity and a service life of up to 50 years. |
| The material used is cement with the addition of cellulose fibers and mineral fillers. Panel thickness 8-12 mm, the average size 1220x2500 mm. The service life is about 20 years, the panels are resistant to rotting, sudden temperature changes, and have low thermal conductivity. |
| Plates with a thickness of 7-30 mm, sizes from 300x300 mm to 600x1200 mm. Durable frost-resistant material, non-flammable, environmentally friendly. Service life more than 50 years, undemanding in maintenance. The only drawback of such slabs is their heavy weight, so when cladding a facade you cannot do without a strong and reliable frame. |
| Facade panels made of natural wood with a thickness of 18-45 mm. The wood undergoes special treatment, as a result of which it becomes resistant to moisture, decay, and ultraviolet radiation. In addition, the flammability of the material is reduced. The disadvantages include the high cost of wood and a shorter service life compared to other types of panels. |
| The panel consists of two sheets of metal and a thin layer of polyethylene between them. Metal has additional anti-corrosion coating. The thickness of the panels is from 3 to 6 mm, the service life is up to 20 years. The material does not fade in the sun, does not require maintenance, and is highly resistant to damage and weathering. |
| The material used is impact-resistant glass up to 6 mm thick. The panel can be transparent, matte, mirrored, with patterns and grainy texture. The material is durable, weather resistant, and very attractive. Disadvantages: high cost, difficult installation. |
Facade siding technology
The most popular finishing material for facades is siding. It is lightweight, conveniently attached thanks to the locking system, and does not require special skills or equipment.
The cladding process consists of four stages: preparing the walls, installing the sheathing, insulating the facade and attaching the panels themselves. For unheated buildings, insulation is not used. The durability of the coating and the appearance of the facade depend on the quality of surface preparation.
All work can be completed independently in 2-4 days, depending on the area of the walls. But first you need to correctly calculate the amount of material so as not to overpay, and in the process of work not to be interrupted by the purchase of missing material.
Prices for different types of siding
We calculate the amount of material
So, for calculations you will need a schematic drawing of the building with all the main parameters - height, width and length of the building, dimensions of openings (windows/doors). After taking measurements, you should determine the total area of the sheathed surfaces: to do this, first calculate the area of each wall separately and sum up the resulting figures. Then the total area of windows and doors is taken away.
For example, you need to line a bathhouse 3x4 m, 2.5 m high, with two windows 0.6x0.9 m and a door 0.7x1.8 m. The area of the side wall is
- 3x2.5= 7.5 m2,
- façade area – 4x2.5= 10 m2.
Total wall area:
- 7.5 + 7.5 + 10 + 10=35 m2.
Now we calculate the total area of windows and doors in the same way:
- 0.6x0.9= 0.54 m2 (window);
- 0.7x1.8= 2.5 m2 (door);
- 0.54x2 + 2.5= 3.58 m2 – total area of openings.
We subtract the second value from the first and get the size of the working area:
- 35 – 3.58 = 31.42 m2.
Now all that remains is to divide the resulting value by the area of one panel. It is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, next to other siding parameters.
Siding - dimensions
For example, let's take vinyl siding Block House: its width is 0.232 m, length 3.66 m, area 0.85 m2. We divide 31.42 by 0.85 and get the number of panels - 37 pieces. Since waste is inevitable during the work process, the material must be taken with a reserve of 7-10%. There are 10 panels in a package, so for cladding you need to buy 4 packages of siding, and the extra three panels will be just such a supply.
The starting profile, which is used to fasten the lower tier of panels, is measured in linear meters, therefore, for calculations it is enough to know the length of the bathhouse perimeter. In our case it is 14 m (3+3+4+4). Since the profile is attached with an overlap, you need to add another 0.5-0.7 m for the length of the joining sections and 30-40 cm for waste when fitting.
Corner profiles are also measured in linear meters, and usually have a length of 3 m. For buildings with complex configurations, two types of profiles are required - for external and internal corners. To calculate the number of elements, the height of the building should be multiplied by the number of corners and divided by three. For example, if a bathhouse with a height of 2.5 has a rectangular shape, then the total length of the corner profiles is 10 m. Dividing by the length of one profile, we get 3.3, that is, you will need 3 whole profiles and a piece 30 cm long. This means you need purchase 4 profiles for external corners. Elements for internal corners are calculated separately according to the same principle.
To join the panels, you will need H-shaped and T-shaped connecting profiles.
They are produced in lengths of 3 m and are calculated individually. Since the length of the siding does not exceed 3.8 m, it is not difficult to determine the junction of the panels. Mark these areas on the diagram and calculate how much profile you will need to connect along the entire height of the facade.
The finishing strips are attached horizontally above and below window openings, so calculating their number will not be difficult, as well as the number of window and door frames. The dimensions of these elements are necessarily indicated in the price lists and catalogs of the manufacturer, and it will not be difficult to select the necessary components for the panels if you have measurements of the building.
For convenience, you can use an online calculator, this will provide more accurate calculations and will save time.
Surface preparation
The wall under the cladding must be strong, without cracks or breaks. Any defects reduce the strength and durability of the skin, and therefore preliminary preparation surface is very important. First, remove the trim from the windows and doors, then remove everything that protrudes beyond the plane of the wall - decorative elements, lighting fixtures.
Carefully inspect the walls, base, corners, sweep the lower part of the building around the entire perimeter with a broom. Sometimes small cracks and chips can be hidden under a layer of dust and dirt on the base. Peeling plaster must be cleaned off with a spatula so that it does not interfere with the tight fit of the sheathing. Large cracks are expanded along the length and sealed with a cement solution, small cracks are simply rubbed with the same solution.
If the walls are wooden, be sure to check the integrity of the logs, especially the lower rows. It is recommended to caulk the dried crowns and treat the wood with an antiseptic. Rotten areas need to be replaced, because the fungus will develop under the sheathing, damaging an increasing area of the wall. If the wood is in good condition, simply priming the entire surface is enough.
Processing technology wooden house| Treating your home with an antiseptic
Lathing. Installation instructions
The lathing for fastening siding panels can be made of metal or wood. In the first case, it is recommended to use galvanized profile SD-60, in the second - dry timber 30x40 mm or 50x60 mm. To fasten the frame elements, you will additionally need U-shaped metal hangers, screws and dowels (if the walls are concrete or brick).
First you need to determine how the panels will be located - horizontally or vertically. The location of the profiles depends on this: they must be perpendicular to the siding panels. That is, with horizontal cladding, we attach the frame profile vertically to the walls, and vice versa. For example, let’s look at horizontal cladding.
Prices for galvanized profiles
galvanized profile
Step 1. Make markings on the walls: step back from the corner 5-7 cm and draw a vertical line along the entire height of the wall. Then retreat 40 cm and again draw a vertical line, and so on until the end of the wall. The extreme line should be no more than 5 cm from the corner. The remaining walls are marked in the same way.
Step 2. Perforated hangers, which are also used for plasterboard profiles, are screwed to the wall along the marked lines. Perforated elements must be fastened in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 40 cm. wooden wall The hangers are screwed with self-tapping screws, and to the concrete/brick wall with dowels, having previously placed a paronite gasket in the space between the hanger and the wall. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Step 3. Now you need to lay the insulation. Mineral wool slabs 50 mm thick are perfect for this. The first layer is placed tightly between the frame posts, the second is attached on top of the profiles. The slabs are fixed to the wall with mushroom dowels. The hanger lugs must be threaded through the insulation by cutting small holes in the slabs. Thermal insulation must be fixed around the entire perimeter of the building.
Prices for mineral wool
mineral wool
Step 4. Stretch the thermal insulation over windproof membrane, through which the protruding edges of the suspensions are also threaded. The membrane is overlapped and secured at the joints with construction tape.
Step 5. Counter-lattice. Along the bottom of the wall, along the base, and along the top, a horizontal narrow profile is fixed into which the ends will be inserted vertical racks frame. Both profiles must be strictly in the same plane. Next, at the corners of the wall, the outer profiles are attached to the hangers and screwed with self-tapping screws. A cord is pulled between the profiles to level the plane of the future frame. After this, screw all the other vertical profiles and install horizontal lintels at the top and bottom of the window opening. The frame is also strengthened at the junction of the planks horizontal jumpers with a vertical step of 40 cm.
Step 6. The sheathing posts at the corners need to be connected to each other: to do this, take a piece of the same profile, cut it into pieces 15-25 cm long, bend them in the middle at a right angle, and then overlap them corner posts frame and fixed with self-tapping screws. The distance between the fasteners is 40 cm. In this way, all corners of the sheathing are strengthened.
Installation of wooden sheathing is carried out in almost the same way: the timber is cut to the height of the wall, and markings are made for attaching brackets. Next, the beams are leveled and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-60 cm. The insulation is inserted between the cells of the sheathing. If you do not plan to use insulation, the timber can be attached not to the brackets, but directly to the wall, leveling the frame using mounting wedges.
Video - Installation of a frame for siding
Facade cladding with siding
When the sheathing is ready, you can begin installing the panels. You need to start by installing starting strips, corner elements and opening framing parts.
Step 1. Determine the lowest point of the wall and use a water level to set the horizon, marking with a pencil in each corner of the building. Next, measure the width of the starting bar and mark this distance from the bottom point of the angle upward. To make marking easier, you can drive a nail into one of the corners. required height and tie it with strong thread. Going to next corner, check the horizontal level, drive the nail in again and tighten the thread. As a result, a nail will be driven into each corner, and a thread will be stretched around the perimeter at the desired level.
Step 2. Apply the starting strip to the marking with the upper edge and fix it with self-tapping screws every 35-40 cm. The ends of adjacent strips are attached at a distance of 5 mm from each other, this is a prerequisite for high-quality installation.
The starting strip is mounted around the entire perimeter of the sheathed surface. When its installation is completed, you can attach the corner elements.
Step 3. The corner profile must be positioned strictly vertically. Its lower edge is lowered 8 mm below the starting strip, the upper cut is 6 mm below the cornice. Screw it in with self-tapping screws on both sides of the corner, in increments of 40 cm.
Step 4. Next, they begin finishing the openings: they screw starting strips around the perimeter of the windows so that their corners do not touch. Each trim is cut at the edges at an angle of 45 degrees and installed on top of the starting strip. The sections are combined with each other, leaving an even, neat joint without gaps. The doorway is decorated in the same way.
Step 5. Now you can bet cladding panels. Start from the bottom - from the starting bar. The panel is applied to the wall, the bottom edge is inserted into the bar and the horizontal level is checked with a level. If the first panel lies unevenly, the entire subsequent cladding will also be skewed, and it will not be possible to level it during installation. After making sure that the panel is positioned correctly, screw the screws into the holes and install the next element. The ends of the facing strips are inserted into the corner profiles or between the corner and H-shaped profiles.
The fastening step with self-tapping screws is 40 cm; after installation, each part must be moved from side to side. If the panel moves with difficulty or does not move at all, the fasteners should be loosened. A connection that is too tight contributes to deformation of the canvas and the formation of a wavy surface.
Step 6. Before laying the top row, you need to secure the finishing strip.
It is located at the very top of the wall horizontally and is fixed, like the other elements, with self-tapping screws. Next, measure the remaining space between the panel and the strip, and cut the siding for the top row according to the measurements. The cut edge is brought under the fold of the plank after fastening to the penultimate row.
The final sheet of siding is cut to size and fastened without screws - from below with a lock behind the previous panel, from above it is inserted into the finishing strip
Gable trim
Very often, when facing a facade, the pediment is also sheathed with siding. This way the building looks more neat and aesthetically pleasing. The sheathing process is quite simple, although you have to work at heights. Before starting work, install reliable, durable scaffolding to protect yourself from falling.
Step 1. Using a level, markings are made for a triangular frame. Next, two guide strips are attached on the sides along the roof overhang, screwed vertical profile on the sides of the doorway in the attic.
Step 2. The opening is reinforced with horizontal lintels at the top and bottom. The profile is cut to the height of the pediment and attached to the base using hangers in increments of 40 cm. In the lower part, the profiles are reinforced with a horizontal strip. All elements of the sheathing must be located in the same plane.
Step 3. The ebb for the pediment is installed on the press washers, the metal sheets are laid overlapping by 10-15 cm. Then the starting strips are screwed into doorway and slats above low tide.
Step 4. Siding panels are cut so that the cut is transverse on one side and at an angle on the other. Since the pediment has a triangular shape, the ends of the panels must correspond to it. The panels are attached in the manner described above, trying to accurately align the seams on both sides of the doorway. Be sure to leave gaps between the elements at the edges for expansion.
Step 5. After securing the siding panels, the roof overhangs on both sides and the eaves are hemmed. Here the panels are located not lengthwise, but across, so the cladding looks more attractive.
The cuts on the edges are covered with wind strips, which are superimposed on one side roof covering and are fastened with self-tapping screws and press washers.
Video - Pediment cladding (part 1)
Video - Pediment cladding (part 2)
At this point, the façade cladding is considered complete. Correctly performed installation will ensure durability and aesthetic appearance of such cladding, as well as additional protection walls of the house. Caring for siding is not difficult: dust and any dirt can be easily washed off with plain water. Other types of facade panels are mounted in a similar way: the surface is prepared, a metal or wooden frame, the casing is attached. Of course, each material has its own characteristics, so you should first study all the nuances of the cladding in order to avoid annoying mistakes in work.
Video - Facade cladding with panels
If you decide to use for cladding external walls façade panels for your home, then you made the right choice.
Main advantages
Before installing façade panels with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the specifics of the work. It is important to take into account the characteristics of this finishing material, which is created on the basis of polymers using casting technology. During the production process, the panels are subject to pressure. They are able to imitate a variety of textures and natural materials that fit well into any exterior. Among the additional advantages, expert reviews highlight durability: the service life of such finishing is 50 years or more. The products do not bend, as they have a stiffening rib. This ensures geometric stability of the entire surface during installation and during further exploitation. The finish is resistant to wind loads and mechanical deformation. One cannot help but highlight environmental friendliness, which involves the use insulation material in tandem with finishing. During the installation work, technology will be used. At the same time, the outer walls breathe, which creates a comfortable microclimate inside the building. Judging by customer reviews, you can count on easy installation, because the material is quite light and does not place additional load on the foundation. On sale you can find a wide range of products that will allow you to choose the color scheme that suits you. During the maintenance process, the finishing is not at all demanding, and upon purchase you will be pleasantly surprised at the affordable cost.
Work technology
The instructions for installing façade panels were drawn up taking into account the need to saw the products, for which you will need to instead use a saw that has fine teeth. May be needed electric jigsaw, knife, as well as scissors designed for working with metal. When marking, you will need to use a plumb line, tape measure, pencil, level, coated cord and square. A screwdriver and a screwdriver are useful for installation work.
Facade preparation
The installation instructions for façade panels provide for the need for preparatory work. These manipulations can be carried out at any time of the year, but the external temperature should not be below -15 degrees. The material for the sheathing can be galvanized or wood. The distance between the elements is determined by the dimensions of the panels. The sheathing must be mounted vertically if the panels will be installed horizontally, and vice versa.
Basic installation rules
The installation instructions for façade panels provide for the use of self-tapping screws, which are installed in the central part of the technological hole, while ensuring that the element is horizontally positioned. There should be a small distance between the fastener head and the surface of the panel, the width of which is 1 millimeter. It is important to install the products inside each other, leaving a gap. This will provide a thermal gap.
Installation of starting strips
During the work, you must follow the instructions for installing facade panels. Using this, you need to measure the base of the building around the perimeter. If the foundation is perfectly level, then starting corner elements need to be installed in the corners. Starting bars are installed between them according to the level. If the foundation is not level, then with a slight slope it is important to make a blind area, which should be located parallel to the horizontal line. At the next stage, starting profiles are installed; they should be abandoned if the slope is too large. In this case, the height of the next row of products is determined. It is important to set aside the required size from this level, and adjust the lower part of the profile so that it has certain dimensions. Facade panels should be installed using the fixation method in the vertical horizontal and side upper fastener holes. You can also make additional holes, which are most often located in the seam. You should not screw in fasteners outside the holes; you should not do this directly into the panel, as this may cause irreversible deformation.
Installation of a universal j-profile
How is installation carried out if, for example, FineBer façade panels are used? You should be familiar with the installation instructions before starting work. The panels are used in combination with j-profiles when finishing the joint of walls located inside. To do this, use the two mentioned elements of the required length; they are installed in inner corner. A self-tapping screw must be screwed into the hole located at the top in the upper part. The remaining screws are installed in the central part. The distance should be 200 millimeters. The J-profile is used as an edging for the upper part of the profiles. In this case, it is fastened to the sheathing, at the top point, or under the roof overhang, which is done to complete the finishing. In order to insert such a profile into the slab, it needs to be bent.
The installation instructions for Deke façade panels provide for work to be carried out from bottom to top, as well as from left to right. The lower part of the plate must be installed on the starting profile, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The next element is installed on the starting profile, and then inserted into the previous panel. The old slab is fixed to the sheathing, the installation of all subsequent profiles is carried out using the technology that was described above. The installation instructions for Alta-Profile facade panels are drawn up taking into account generally accepted technology. The last slab is introduced after preliminary cutting to the required size. After the first row is ready, you can begin the second.
To protect the facade of the house from exposure atmospheric precipitation Various facing materials are used. A classic is considered to be cladding made of brick or natural stone. But such finishing is very labor-intensive and costs a lot of money. More affordable and in a fast way is the installation of facade panels.
There is an assortment of facade slabs on the market to suit every taste. They are made from a variety of materials, different color range and textures. It is thanks to this that you can select panels with the necessary properties for any facade.
Advantages of finishing with facade panels
Today, facade panels have become widespread and have gained the trust of consumers. This became possible thanks to high operational characteristics material. Let's look at the advantages that cladding a house with facade slabs provides:
- The absence of “wet” processes allows installation to be carried out in a short time, with a minimum of construction waste.
- More low price façade panels than cladding with natural materials.
- Wide choice of material, color solutions and simulated textures.
- Presentable appearance that is easy to maintain: most structures just need to be washed with water from a hose.
- As a rule, facade panels have low moisture absorption, which makes them durable and resistant to the formation of mold and mildew.
Another advantage of such cladding is the possibility additional insulation facade of the house. For this purpose they are used modern insulation materials from expanded polystyrene.
Types of facade panels
Facade slabs are made from several materials. Let's look at the main types of such cladding:
- Products made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
- Steel sheets with a protective coating of polymer materials.
- Sandwich panels with insulation between the sheathing sheets.
- Wooden panels (block house).
- Fiber cement boards.
- Thermal panels: a combination of a decorative layer of clinker tiles and polyurethane foam insulation.
- Glass panels.
- Porcelain stoneware slabs or natural stone, granite or marble.
Advice! Fiber cement boards or thermal panels are most suitable for cladding a private house. They imitate brick and stone masonry, which is the best solution For small house and a respectable mansion.
Installation technology
Facade panels are distinguished by the seasonality of installation work: installation can be carried out in any weather, even at subzero temperatures. This feature is due to the fact that installation is carried out according to frame technology, mechanical fastenings. Let's look at the stages of work in more detail.
Installation of sheathing
Depending on the chosen cladding material, the lathing is installed:
- Wooden frame for light panels (plastic, steel sheets).
- For heavier ones facade slabs(for example, from fiber cement), a frame is constructed from galvanized profiles or profile pipes.
Installation of the frame is carried out in the following sequence:
- Vertical guides are installed. The step between them should be kept at 50–60 cm.
- Then horizontal strips are installed in the places where additional elements are attached: external corners, J-profile and other parts.
Advice! You can lay between the frame slats thermal insulation material for additional insulation of the facade of the house. Best to use sheet materials based on polystyrene foam or basalt wool slab.
Installing the starting bar
After the frame is mounted, they begin to install the starting profile. Its installation makes it easier to install the first row of panels and allows you to accurately maintain the horizontal line. When installing the initial strip, you need to carefully check its evenness using building level. Also, you need to retreat about 10 cm from the corners of the house to install external corner elements.
Panel installation
An important rule for installing any facade panels is that installation is carried out from left to right. Exist various ways installation finishing slabs, different from the material of manufacture. Let's look at the main options:
- PVC structures are attached using a construction stapler or small screws and nails (on a wooden frame).
- The steel panels are attached to the sheathing using metal screws.
- For installation of most heavy structures, metal clamps are used. They are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.
Having completed the installation of facade panels, additional cladding elements are installed:
- external corners;
- installation of a J-profile for edging door and window openings;
- installing a finishing strip to prevent rainwater from getting behind the skin.
All these additional elements add completeness to the cladding and serve to create an aesthetic appearance.
Advice! To install thermal panels, there is usually no need to install a frame. Due to the thick layer of elastic insulation, such panels perfectly hide minor irregularities in the facade. Fastening is done using long screws with plastic dowels directly to the outer walls of the house.
Installing panels is an excellent choice for cladding the facade of a house. In addition to their wonderful appearance, such slabs allow you to insulate the house and reliably protect the walls from moisture. Great popularity for this facing material gives lightness and speed installation process, a huge range of textures and a variety of shades.
