When you look at the price tags of furniture made from chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials for designing furniture with your own hands. Fortunately, everything is on sale now necessary fittings. And furniture projects, whether on the Internet or in “paper” magazines, can now be found to suit every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to carefully cut the chipboard.
The most suitable household tool for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But even when cutting chipboard with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow strictly in a straight line, the saw wobbles; 2) chips form.
Are there ways to solve these problems? Eat. We will talk about them today. By the way, all these tricks also apply to cutting plywood.
Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support
Full support cutting means that when you reach the end of the saw, the cut chipboard sheet will not disappear immediately.
If you want to get a very smooth and clear cut, Chipboard is better Just cut on the floor. This way you will 100% get a solid, stable base. The chipboard will not move even if you sit on top of it to complete the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, crack or fall.
Place 5x10cm pieces of wood under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, since the saw will pass through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.
Tip 2: Adjust the cutting depth
The appropriate cutting depth affects the quality of the cut.
Adjust the depth so that beyond the bottom chipboard edges or plywood protruded no more than half of the disk tooth (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of the cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material rather than chopping it, and also stabilizes the saw so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make saw marks on a chipboard cut less noticeable.
Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, lift the guide and look from close range to install correct depth cutting By the way, at the same time it would be good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. One more point: the saw is designed so that its stroke goes in the upward direction, so chips most often form on that chipboard surfaces, which faces upward, and the cut from the side of the surface, looking downward, turns out cleaner. Therefore, place the chipboard with the good side facing down when cutting.
Tip 3: For longitudinal cut use a hard, long, straight object as a guide
As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need to do is tighten its ends with a clamp.
The main difficulty is to position it in the right place for an accurate cut. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).
Add this to your cut width, mark the chipboard on both edges, and apply a guide board. You will also need to factor the thickness of the saw blade into your measurements.
It is usually best to have the metal base plate of the circular saw rest against the edge of the guide to ensure maximum stability of the saw while cutting.
Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut
This is fine tuning, so to speak. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5 cm long, thus determining the width of the part to be cut. Then start the saw, press down support platform saw to the guide and cut the chipboard. Make sure that the saw blade begins to rotate in the air before it even touches the sheet to be cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the cut to make sure that you have done everything and calculated it correctly. It’s better, as they say, to measure seven times...
Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping
Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, it will leave a mark on the chipboard or plywood.
Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw and blade sharpness, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disc passes through a sheet of chipboard with little resistance, as if it were melting wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, it means either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Cutting too quickly tears the chipboard fibers and leaves noticeable marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.
Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. This is why it is best to cut on the floor when you make a long cut. You can crawl on your knees right along the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, without the need to reach or bend.
Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.
Tip 6: Get a blade with more teeth
The more teeth on the disc, the sharper the cut will be. And, naturally, the disk must be sharp.
In principle, all the disks from the picture above are capable of making a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the downside of the 140-tooth blade is that it becomes dull faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a 40 or 56 tooth disc. It's better to keep one more in reserve. A 56-tooth blade is commonly used for cutting.
Tip 7: Cross section best done using duct tape
The cross section runs perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the most sharp blade easily leaves behind chips. This big problem, best solution which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, which we wrote about above. However, you can perform this task using other drives. To do this, place adhesive tape on both sides of the cut line. It will prevent the formation of chips.
You need to remove it carefully, pull it in a direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the laminating coating of the chipboard.
And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front side, cover the saw platform with adhesive tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.
How to cut laminated chipboard without chipping
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping .
There is a fairly fair opinion that clean sawing of laminated chipboard can only be done using professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.
Of course, if you decide to make a cabinet with your own hands. then it’s better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE OFF. I don’t want to drag myself back to the workshop, but I need to cut.
This article aims to answer this question. The review of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (please forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with text????
Method 1 - Scratch
The old-fashioned way. Previously it was used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard coated with a thick layer of varnish. Nowadays it is rarely used. Using a ruler, use an awl or a simple nail to scratch a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.
After that, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not go past it. You can cut with either a jigsaw or a hand hacksaw.
In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.
Detailed tutorial on this method 
The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly along the line. Very slow.
Short cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple jigsaw. To do this, several conditions must be met. 
Firstly, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and a new one. In this case, on one side (where the teeth enter the material) the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.
Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. The speed should not be set to maximum (slightly above average.
The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to maintain the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.
Method 3 - Circular saw
To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with small tooth). It is more convenient to make long straight cuts with circular saws than with a jigsaw. But in this case, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. Pieces break off from the opposite side (bottom)).
You can cut like a free-flying saw (it’s quite difficult to guide exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - there is a lot of hassle with markings. 
Same with a saw fixed to the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the cutting accuracy and allow you to stamp identical parts.
Even if you use a finishing disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.
Method 4 - Sawing with trimming
This is a modification of working with a circular saw. Ideally, this will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can get by with an ordinary circular saw. To work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed to the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (in the photo there is a simple circular with a homemade tire). 
The whole trick is to, by analogy with a cutting machine, make two cuts strictly along the same line.
Cutting along a tire (long ruler) will help us with this. The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, about 6-10 mm deep. In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without tearing out pieces of it. 
If you enlarge the photo it will look something like this
The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the point where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut and there is nothing to prick.
This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.
Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, suitable size). The cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing. 
Very clean cut. The ability to carry out curved cuts, that is, to produce many radius parts. including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.
http://ruki-zolotye.ru
As practice shows, it is very difficult to make high-quality cuts of chipboard with a durable melamine coating. Rough tools often leave nicks in the cuts. You will no longer be able to assemble a neat door or shelf with such defects. Cutting laminated chipboard at home usually occurs when repair work or furniture making.
How to cut chipboard without nicks and chips?
Special equipment
Of course, the most best option- use a special formatting machine. With its help you can get any cut. But you can’t buy such a tool for private needs, and at a manufacturing enterprise that provides sawing services, such a procedure will cost good money. A cheaper method is a circular saw. There are even special saws for chipboard. But they will also require the use of special tools. However, many should have in their arsenal milling machine, which will correct the rough cut with a milling cutter. If you have experience working on such a machine, it will not be difficult to obtain a satisfactory appearance cut.
Handy tools
You can cut chipboard with a jigsaw, but this will be a rough cut. The edges may turn out not straight, but sinusoidal, and in the worst case, the edge will not be perpendicular to the front surface.
When cutting, you must be prepared for the fact that the jigsaw file will begin to “walk” due to the bend. You need to cut with a margin of 4 mm, and then level the edge.
Cutting laminated chipboard at home using a jigsaw reduces the formation of chips. When cutting, you need to increase the speed and reduce the feed, setting the pumping to 0. Only sharp saw blades designed for special cutting of chipboard should be used. Only by following these rules can you achieve good result. After cutting, the end that will be visible can be sanded down. Additionally, before cutting, as already mentioned, you need to cut a line along which the cut will take place. But we do not move the file along this line, but near it - then the chips will not touch the limits you need. In the end, all that remains is to finish the edges with sandpaper.
Indents from the contour can be up to 4 mm. Then these few millimeters are removed cylindrical cutter using a hand-held electric router with a bearing. The bearing is guided along a long level fixed to the back of the sheet.
In addition, if the chips are in a non-working, low-visibility area, they can be disguised with a marker or felt-tip pen matched to their color.
The most undesirable way to cut chipboard- with a file (oddly enough, in old textbooks a lot of material is devoted to this method). You can use a plane, but preferably an electric one with carbide knives. But here we must take into account that dust from under the plane will scatter throughout the room.
And the most comfortable way- by using hand router along the guide. The end should be smooth and at 90 degrees, there will be no chips, and when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, there will be almost no dust.
Craftsmen recommend using a hacksaw for such cutting. If you have a saw with a fine tooth, then the operating procedure is as follows:
1) Draw a cutting line with a knife. Sharpen your saw before starting work. The knife should be applied with slight pressure so that the laminated top layer is cut.
2) Glue a tape with an adhesive base along the intended cutting line. It will help keep the decorative layer from cracking. You can also use paper tape.
3) The tool should be held at a very sharp angle. In this case, the angle should not be higher than 30 degrees - this will reduce the likelihood of chipping. During the cutting process, you need to apply light pressure on the saw. If the work is performed with a power tool, such as a jigsaw, then there is no need to rush and press it
4) After finishing cutting, the cut can be cleaned with a file. But in many cases this is not necessary, since the small teeth of the saw prevent the laminate from being deformed. If torn edges have formed, then delicate work with a rasp will bring the cut into proper shape. The grinding tool must be guided towards the center from the edge - this will minimize possible damage to the top layer.
5) The glued strip of veneer will give the final beauty to the cut.
Of course cutting laminated chipboard at home does not imply professional quality and high speed. For those who are in a hurry, you can offer sawing of chipboard with a grinder. A wood disc is used as a cutting element. A strip is attached to the chipboard with clamps so that the grinder can be guided along it for an even cut. After cutting, possible chips are processed with the same grinder, only with a different attachment - for grinding. But a more gentle option is to use sandpaper.
The electric hand-held circular saw will celebrate its centenary in just a few years. During this time, the “circular” or “parquet” reached technically, if not perfection, then very great heights. Despite all the complexity of the mechanism and settings, the tool has very high safety measures!
It would be strange if a circular saw only served for cutting wood and derivative materials such as plywood, fiberboard, chipboard. Replacing disks and exposing required quantity rpm, this unit can easily cut blanks for laminate, plastic, organic glass and even slate. In a word, he can handle almost all sheet materials, literally and figuratively. Perhaps you shouldn’t experiment with concrete and brick - other tools will handle them, the same circular saws, only for the appropriate purpose.
In choosing a tool, the most important role, oddly enough, is the diameter. cutting disc. After all, if you think about it, it turns out that the diameter of the cutting disc is the parameter that manufacturers have to comply with. Increasing the diameter simply won’t work - you need to increase the motor power in order to spin the tool to the required speed, and therefore, you will need more torque to maintain this speed. Following the torque, it is necessary to improve the stabilization system, which will protect the tool from noise and vibration.
But simply focusing on the diameter of the circle is not enough, because this indicator in fact can have a completely different meaning in the maximum depth of cut. Developers must indicate these parameters in the data sheets accompanying the tools. The most versatile are saws with a cutting depth from 50 mm to 65 mm. Smaller diameter tools are suitable for sawing sheet materials, while units from 65 mm are professional. You should choose among them based on your needs.
Circular saws for wood are no longer possible without reliable and sophisticated electronics. Of course, the more complex it is, the more finances you will have to spend when choosing. However, the costs will be recouped when working. What is the cost of the system for maintaining a constant frequency - during operation, the device itself controls the speed of revolutions, and if this indicator drops sharply, for example, when hitting a higher density of material, then the feed power automatically increases. This will prevent the disc from jamming in the cut, and the quality of the cut itself will noticeably improve.
From network overload when starting the tool, almost all powerful circular saws equipped with a system soft start, which significantly extends the life of instruments. Not all saws are equipped with a preset idle year, which plays a big role if you have to work with various kinds materials. But all high-quality models are able to independently protect themselves from overloads if the operator does not count the time spent at work.
A sensitive system will react to excess temperature of the motor winding and turn off the power, thereby saving a decent amount of money. Unlike most tools, which are equipped with protection against accidental activation, the safety button, without which it is impossible to press the trigger, does not allow the trigger to be held on. Such a “beast” as a circular saw must always be under control. The functionality of the circular saw largely depends on the base plate.
It is precisely this element of the tool on which its versatility in terms of working from different angles depends.
The adjustment of an inclined cut, for example, is set precisely by the positions of the platform. Usually it is possible to set the desired tilt within 45°, although on professional devices this parameter is increased by another 10 times. Pay attention to how tightly the platform parts are fitted to each other, because the slightest play can affect the result. A well-thought-out platform allows you to get from manual unit stationary circular saw, a kind of machine without a table. This function is good for any unit, but for especially powerful ones it is doubly good, because a table circular saw significantly expands the list of tasks that can be performed using the tool. Don't forget about safety and ergonomics!
Today, a spring-loaded casing is a mandatory part of all circular saws - it completely hides the disc when the unit is idle, and releases it only when there is a stop against the workpiece. Since you will be dealing with hand tools, the issue of its convenience is very important. There are even models for left-handed people! First of all, pay attention to the location of the handles and their shape - as practice shows, if you need an approach from different sides, a mushroom handle is much more convenient, since a straight handle allows you to work comfortably only by cutting in a straight line away from you.
Preparing circular saws for work - sharpening and setting
New tools and discs do not require preparation, however, different manufacturers may have different wishes in this regard. Over time, it won’t hurt to check the shape of the disc for any deviations from flatness, as well as straighten, sharpen and set the cutting teeth. Flatness can be checked with a special straight edge or a special device. If you find irregularities in the shape, mark the areas with chalk and correct them using a hammer.
