Toilet installation - installation tips. Attaching the toilet to the installation: step-by-step installation instructions How to sheathe the installation

The invention of drywall revolutionized finishing works. Plasticity, lightness, environmental friendliness, fire resistance and ease of installation have provided the material with well-deserved popularity. Drywall in the country, in the apartment, production premises will help you quickly and correctly make repairs yourself.

A plumbing installation system is a design that provides the ability to conceal the installation of appliances, when only the toilet and drain panel remain in sight. Everything else - the frame, the cistern, the pipes and the hose - is hidden in the wall.

The plumbing installation system also guarantees reliable fastening wall hung toilet Thanks to this, the device can withstand loads of up to 400 kg.

The main advantage of a wall-hung toilet is its compactness. Compared to a floor-standing counterpart with a bulky cistern, the installation structure is 2 times smaller, so it can be installed in a wall covered with gypsum board.

After such installation of a wall-hung toilet, free space remains underneath, making cleaning easier.

Sheathing the installation with plasterboard is done using different materials, but the simplest of them is double GKLV.

To properly install the installation yourself, you first need to check the serviceability of the installation system. To do this, fill the toilet bowl, open the valve, fill the tank with water and drain it.

If there are no leaks anywhere, you can safely proceed to the sheathing:

Sheathing the installation with plasterboard begins from the front. The marking is carried out according to the template, which is shown on the packaging of wall-hung plumbing fixtures or in the instructions for the system or toilet.
A restrictive cuff and a protective cover, which protects the tank from foreign objects, are installed in the front cutout of the tank. Now you can do the cladding.
The installation must be covered with plasterboard on each free side.
First, you need to drill holes in the system frame (you can use self-tapping screws with a drill tip), and the casing is secured through them. After laying to the system frame, the drywall is fixed with screws.
On the sides and top, it is necessary to provide an overlap from the frame stand of 3 cm or more, then a wall profile is attached to the wall and the gypsum board, on which the side fragments and the top are fixed.

How to sheathe the inside of a house

To cover the inside of a house with plasterboard yourself, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

profiles (ceiling and guides);
suspensions for them;
plasterboard sheets;
scissors or grinder for metal;
knife for cutting drywall;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
screws and dowels;
drill or hammer drill;
marker, level, plumb line and tape measure.

A master class on covering the inside of a house with plasterboard looks like this:

First you need to make drawings of the type of walls and ceiling indicating the dimensions of the planes.
Then they prepare a calculation of the amount of gypsum boards for cladding. When making calculations, it is necessary to avoid horizontal gypsum board joints; it is best to place them in a checkerboard pattern.
Next, mark the walls, floor and ceiling under the guide metal profiles. The plumb line and level must be constantly monitored to ensure that the structures are positioned correctly vertically and horizontally.
Using a grinder, the guide profiles are cut into the necessary parts, which must be secured with dowels in increments of 60 cm.
In accordance with the plan, a guide profile for the ceiling is marked. Attach the ceiling profile starting from the wall.
After marking all the vertical profiles on the floor, you need to project all the marks onto the ceiling. For control you need a plumb line and a level.
Now determine the position of the hangers with which the vertical profile is secured to the wall. To do this, the ceiling profile must be placed in the guide, aligned with the marks on the ceiling and floor, and a suspension must be applied. There should be a vertical gap of 80cm between the hangers. Holes are drilled using a puncher or drill and the hangers are secured in them using dowels.
The next step is to attach it to the hangers and guides. vertical profiles. The center of the profile is aligned with the mark on the guide. Align the profile with a thread stretched horizontally.
You can proceed to fixing the horizontal profiles. They are attached to pieces from the guides or to special fasteners - “crabs”.
When the frame is secured, you can cover the house with plasterboard. The thickening of the first sheet is cut off along the edge and placed in the corner.
Correctly position the first gypsum board sheet so that it covers half the width of the profile.
Fix the drywall with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 cm at the edges and 20-30 cm in other places. To prevent the edges from breaking off, the screws are screwed in with an indentation.

Using this method, all whole sheets are secured, then inserts are cut out from the scraps and secured.

It’s easy to cut gypsum board correctly: the master draws a cut line on the sheet and breaks it along it on the work table or on the edge of the beam.

After the entire surface is covered, the seams and screw heads are puttied with a special putty for working with drywall. The minimum width of the seams that remain during sheathing should be 5 mm.

How to cover a staircase

Craftsmen choose to cover stairs with plasterboard in houses where the steps are mounted so that the railings are built into the wall or where it is necessary to hide a stair ledge or flight into the interior.

In order to sheathe the staircase of a gypsum board house, at the first stage a metal frame is prepared according to the dimensions of the future sheathing of the span.

When fastening the frame and gypsum board with screws, if cracks and irregularities appear, they must be eliminated immediately to avoid deformation of the cladding.

stairs ( outer side staircase opening) is usually decorated with a balustrade. If the interior allows, you can do the cladding with your own hands and without a balustrade, closing it perforated corners both from below and from the side.

To avoid moisture getting on the stairs and subsequent deformation of the gypsum board joints and internal corners glued with non-woven fabric.

If the steps are wooden or covered with laminate, drywall will help with additional sound insulation.

Durable material can withstand any decor – lamps, paintings, etc. “Windows” look great - niches built into the staircase from the inside where you can place accessories or a collection.

How to make a ledge

Tools and materials:

aluminum profile;
spatula;
drywall;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
roulette;
plumb and level;
pencil;
Bulgarian;
special glue;
reinforcing tape;
putty.

Step by step instructions:

Where do serious repairs begin? Of course, from design. First you need to choose a place and take measurements, taking into account the thickness of the frame and gypsum board. If the niche is intended for household appliances, in order to design it correctly, you need to take into account the space for free air circulation and laying communications.
Now they calculate the amount of material, purchasing it with a small margin.
Prepare a drawing of a niche in any scale and transfer the actual dimensions to the wall. Mark the place where the frame is attached. Don't forget to design space for cable, lighting and other communications.
Then you need to set aside the distance for the ledge and make markings on the floor for the profile and gypsum board.
Using a plumb line, the resulting markings are transferred to the ceiling. Assemble the frame from the profile, securing the guides according to the markings.
Using a grinder, cut the profile into the required pieces and attach it with self-tapping screws to the vertical posts opposite the horizontal markings.
Mount the base of the niche, connecting the wall with the vertical posts with a profile and checking the result with a level.
When the assembly of the frame is completed, they proceed to covering it with plasterboard. They begin installing the sheets from the sides, securing them with self-tapping screws.
Then the openings are measured again and pieces of plasterboard are cut out. The plasterboard installation can be secured to the base wall with a special adhesive.
The remaining parts are secured to the front part of the frame. After installation, finishing is carried out. To hide the joints, you need to lay down reinforcing tape and cover it with putty. Then a sickle mesh is laid and dried. After drying, apply a second layer of putty and a decorative layer (wallpaper, paint).

Master class on drywall (video)

Recently, toilets and bidets with installations have become increasingly popular. Yes, and there are reasons for that. In fact, the installation itself is not visible after all the work is completed in your bathroom. But her presence gives the room a very, very remarkable appearance. Lack of visible cistern- this is truly a breakthrough in the field of plumbing and, most importantly, design.

Easy-to-install installations quickly began to be used after they appeared on the market. Prices for this product are now becoming more and more reasonable. Installing them is actually easy. Some, however, had questions about how to build a frame in order to sew the installation into the wall. Someone tried to mount such a frame on top of the installation frame, right next to it, and then there was real agony in order to install the toilet after installation tiles. Let's now consider how to properly mount the frame for installing a toilet and hide it.

The most important point is that the frame is mounted in the same plane as the installation body itself. To build it, you need to use a regular 27*28 guide profile, which is used for the frame when installing drywall. We take this profile and sew it directly to the installation body using metal-to-metal screws and a drill. Definitely with a drill. There is no other way to attach the profile to the frame. You can't beat metal without a drill.

This profile will be located on the sides and on top of the installation itself, so that its groove is directed towards the walls and ceiling, that is, outward. Then, applying a level or plaster rule to the installation plane, we will use them to visually extend this plane to the wall and make marks on the wall that will indicate where the edges of the frame will go.

Using these marks, we nail the same profile to the wall, but now with a groove turned inward, towards the installation. Now we have the basis for the frame. Then we insert 27*60 profiles cut to size into this base, in increments of 40 centimeters. In general, the frame is ready. All that remains is to secure the inserted profiles to the wall. So-called direct hangers are usually used here. But if the body of your installation was initially installed at a sufficiently large distance from the back wall, then the length of such a suspension may not be enough. Then we use the profile trims and make a mount from them. (See photo above.) The frame is ready.

What to look for

If you plan to have two installations next to each other on one wall, for a toilet and for a bidet, then you need to display them very responsibly and carefully. If both installations do not fall on the same plane, then the frame will subsequently fail.

When the frame is built, we can begin to hide everything that we have already done under the gypsum fiber sheets.

We will use moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard; drywall will not work here, even if it is resistant to a humid environment. Firstly, no matter how easier it is to work with gypsum board, a moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheet will in any case be more resistant to moisture. In addition, gypsum fiber board is denser and will create a more solid base for the false wall, which will subsequently serve to some extent as a support for the toilet.

The main support, of course, is the installation frame, but still. At this stage, it will be difficult to cut several technological holes in the bottom of the sheet. If your installation will hold a toilet after the repair is completed, then you will need a window for the button body, for two working outlets (the drain from the tank and the sewer hole), and two studs on which the toilet itself will subsequently be attached.

If you are installing a bidet, then everything is simpler. A couple of holes for hairpins, two more for cold and hot water, well, and the sewer hole, which here will be much smaller than that of the toilet.

To make it neat, you need to measure everything very accurately with a tape measure, make marks, and then, using a drill with a drill inserted, drill holes along the marked contours required sizes. Cutting it any other way will be problematic. Using a knife is very difficult, and using a jigsaw, for example, is also inconvenient. It is very difficult to position the gypsum fiber sheet for such an operation, and there is a danger that it will break.

Once the holes are drilled, you can sew them up. Remember that the body of our installation will also be part of the frame for the gypsum fiber sheets. The only nuance is that we sew gypsum fiber board into these different parts of the frame using different self-tapping screws. We fasten it to the profile with a regular self-tapping screw for gypsum plasterboard. But let’s re-screw the metal screws with a drill into the installation frame. Others are impossible to screw up.

Before this operation, we will do two more important things.

Using a tape measure, measure the distance from the walls to profile pipes, from which the frame itself is welded. And we will apply these distances to the prepared gypsum fiber sheet. Otherwise, we will miss when screwing in the screws.
Let's make holes in the sheet so that the heads of the metal screws do not stick out on the surface. Otherwise, it will be impossible to glue the tiles later. But it is necessary to attach the sheet to the installation body!

Well, that's actually all. We built a false wall and hid the installation from prying eyes. Now you can lay out the tiles.

Designers' quest for improvement appearance toilets, the creation of stylish bathrooms contributed to the popularization of block and frame structures with a hanging bowl.

The installation itself is not cheap, and you will also have to pay extra for its installation. Therefore, many home craftsmen hone their plumbing skills and carry out installation work on one's own. Agree, would it be nice to save money by attaching the toilet to the installation yourself?

We will help you resolve this issue. In the article we describe in detail the device, operating principle and types of structures, and also provide step-by-step technology and photo instructions for installing the toilet.

If the appearance of the external elements of the installation depends only on the designer’s imagination, then its structure internal structure can be divided into 2 options: frame and block.

Image gallery

The drain button frame is secured with latches and can be easily removed. Underneath there is a hole for connecting a water hose with a compact tap. Within this “installation” window on the front wall of the tank there is and, which can be unscrewed from the tank by hand and repaired without dismantling the box.

Myth No. 3. A wall-hung toilet takes up minimal space.

Block and frame installations require an additional 20-25 cm of bathroom space. Therefore, these structures take up even more space than a floor-mounted toilet. The only option for reducing space is to place the installation in a wall niche.

Myth No. 4. There are no spare parts for block installations.

The sizes of components are standardized by most manufacturers, because repairable models have priority when purchasing. In plumbing stores, picking up a broken part will not be difficult. In addition, you can do it yourself.

Step-by-step installation of the installation and toilet

Installing a plumbing installation yourself is not difficult. The main danger is the leakage of the joint between the sewer pipe and the toilet pipe after final installation.

To avoid such problems, you must follow all the rules step-by-step installation installations. Next, installation schemes for toilets with various designs will be considered.

Required Tools

To install the installation and attach the toilet to it, the following tools and materials are required:

Screwdriver.
Adjustable wrench.
Hammer drill with drills.
Pliers.
Dowels and bolts.
Hammer.
Level.
Roulette with marker.
Silicone.

The minimum tools and materials that will be useful when installing the installation itself are listed. When installing the box, other devices are needed, but this work is best left to professionals.

Installing a block installation

There are two ways to install a block installation:

In a specially prepared niche in the wall.
On a concrete slab, which is then covered with plasterboard.

Regardless of the type of installation, the list of steps to assemble the installation remains the same.

Step one. Applying markings in the bathroom. In small narrow rooms The toilet is installed along its axis, and in large ones it is better to place the bowl along the axis of the drain.

First you need to draw a line with a marker or chalk from corner to corner of the room along the wall where you plan to install the installation. Then, along the axis of installation of the bowl, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the first one, using a construction corner.

Step two. Formation of attachment points. In accordance with the intended installation axis of the bowl, the locations for fixing the block structure are determined. If the axis of the bowl and the wall is distorted, you can place wooden or plastic spacers under the fastenings to achieve an angle of 90 degrees.

In loose concrete slabs, preference is given to fastening with dowels, which provide maximum area contact of the fastener with the wall

It is necessary to center the location of the dowels relative to the middle of the toilet drain hole. If the distance between the places where the block is attached is 60 cm, then each hole for the dowel should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from the axis of the bowl.

After marking, you need to drill holes with a drill and insert the fasteners supplied with the product into them.

Step three. Fixation of block structure. The drain tank is screwed on with screws or anchor bolts to the wall. After this, a water hose is connected to the structure, and pipes are connected that will connect to the toilet bowl.

Inside the “mounting” window is usually located the included flexible hose, into which water is supplied through an adapter with a tap

Step four. Screwing in the bowl support pins. After fixing the block mechanism, the toilet bowl is attached to it. Metal rods are inserted into the holes for its fastening and the places for their fastening on the wall are determined so that the height of the toilet seat is 40-48 cm.

The rods are made of ultra-strong, rigid steel and can withstand loads of up to 450 kg without deformation. It will not be possible to change their location later without dismantling the decorative box.

After this, the toilet is removed and holes are drilled in the concrete slab under the rods, which are then fixed in the wall with fasteners.

Step five. Installation of sewer drain. The toilet bowl is hung on support pins and a pipe for draining water from the tank is inserted into it. After this, the sewerage scheme is determined and its installation is carried out with rigid fixation of the 110-mm outlet pipe.

Rigid fixation of the sewer line is mandatory, because when installing the toilet bowl, the pipe should not change its position

Step six. Covering a block installation and installing a toilet bowl. After installing the sewer system, the toilet bowl is removed and decorative cladding of the entire plumbing structure with tiles or moisture-resistant plasterboard begins.

The drain button and its frame are installed last. But the operation of the drain mechanism should be tested only after the sealant has dried at the sewer joint.

When the cladding work is completed, the drain button is installed, and the bowl is placed on drain pipes and supporting metal pins. After this, the toilet is attached to the wall with nuts.

Instead of lining the drain hole of a block structure, support rods and sewers, they are sometimes filled with concrete.

When mixing concrete for pouring, it is necessary to buy only certified materials, and also follow the technology, because the structure will experience heavy loads

To do this, after the fifth step, a common wooden formwork is installed around these structures, and its internal volume is filled with concrete. 5-7 days after pouring, the formwork is removed, and the toilet bowl is docked with support pins rigidly fixed in concrete, sewer pipes and a cistern drain.

Installation of a toilet with frame installation

The installation of a frame installation with a toilet can be carried out in any place in the bathroom. Single-frame structures are attached simultaneously to the wall and floor, and installations with a double frame can be installed in the middle of the room in a special partition.

The installation of both design options differs only in the location of the metal frame and the shape of the decorative cladding, so their installation will be discussed in one step-by-step instruction.

Step one. Assembly of the frame structure. Installation installation begins with collecting metal frame. To compensate for uneven floors and walls, the frame design includes retractable legs. After adjusting the position of the frame according to the level, the legs are rigidly fixed in the required position.

There is a special mechanism to regulate the distance between the wall and the frame. The position of the foot must be fixed firmly to avoid possible distortion of the frame

The installation is applied to the installation site, and a marker marks the places where it is necessary to drill holes for dowels.

Step two. Installing the tank on a metal frame. The height of the water tank can also be adjusted, but not in all installation models. The recommended height of the release button is 1 m from the floor surface.

The height of the drain button is not of fundamental importance for the operation of the mechanism, but surveys indicate that 100 cm is the best option

Based on this parameter, the level of location of the drain tank inside the metal frame is selected. Fittings for draining water are installed together with the tank.

The frame structure often has a height-adjustable horizontal metal strip. It has holes or clips for attaching the support rods of the toilet bowl, pipes for draining water from the tank and sewerage.

Step three. Sewerage installation. A 110 mm sewer pipe is laid to the frame.

Step four. Fastening the frame structure. Holes are drilled to attach the metal frame, and then it is screwed with screws or anchor bolts to the wall and floor at the designated points. Optimal distance from the frame frame to the wall – 140-195 mm.

It will not be possible to screw the frame close to the wall, because a sewer pipe measuring 110 mm must still be placed behind the metal legs

The sewer pipe is fixed to the frame using available fasteners.

After the frame installation is completely assembled, it is necessary to ensure that the supporting heights of the pins and pipes are adjusted correctly. To do this, a toilet bowl is hung on the structure.

Step five. Checking for leaks. A water pipe is connected to the drain tank and the tap is opened. After filling the tank, a test drain is performed. If there are no leaks, the toilet bowl is removed and the installation begins.

Step six. Forming a box around a frame installation.

There are two ways to close a metal frame:

sew up with plasterboard;
cover with bricks and tiles.

Before insulating the installation, it is necessary to close its pipes with plugs or plastic bags. For covering it is necessary to use moisture resistant drywall 12.5 mm thick sheet. The box will be decorative element, which bears no supporting load.

The front panel of the box must be reinforced at the back with a metal profile so that if you accidentally press the drywall with your hand, it will not burst or fall through

When covering, it is necessary to provide in advance the formation of holes for the pipes and support pins of the toilet bowl.

Step seven. Attaching the toilet to the installation frame. You can begin installing the toilet bowl on the installation immediately after plastering and painting the plasterboard box. If the metal frame was lined with bricks and tiles, then the toilet should be installed on it 10 days after completion of the work.

Instead of silicone, you can place a 1-2 mm thick insulation gasket between the bowl and the wall to prevent cracking ceramic coating under loads

Before placing the toilet on the support pins, it is necessary to lubricate it with silicone. rubber gaskets sewer pipes and tank drain hole. Also, a layer of sealant is applied to the back wall of the toilet at a distance of 5 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter of contact with the wall.

The bowl is fixed to the wall with two bolts screwed onto metal pins. After a day, you can perform a test drain to check the operation of the entire installation.

Block and frame installations do not necessarily require the installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl. It can be installed classically on the floor. Installation diagram floor-standing toilet differs from the above methods only in the location of the fastening elements and the sewer pipe.

When installing the toilet on the floor, it is fixed both to supporting horizontal rods and screwed to the floor. Bowl manufacturers choose the type of fastening based on the shape of the product.

When fixing the toilet to the floor, it is necessary to mark and drill in floor tiles two holes for mounting. After covering the installation with a box, the toilet bowl is mounted to the sewer and cistern drain pipes, and then screwed to the floor using the existing fasteners.

After final fixation of the toilet, it is necessary to coat the perimeter of the base silicone sealant so that water and dirt do not get under the bowl

You can additionally use it to connect the sewer pipe and the toilet bowl.

The frame must be bolted in at least 4 places.

The water supply pipe must have a separate shut-off valve in a convenient location for access.

Following the proposed instructions will protect the apartment from flooding and prevent the need to dismantle the decorative box during the first years of operation of the toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The videos will allow you to put together a complete puzzle of the toilet installation assembly diagram in your head in just a few minutes. After viewing them, the step-by-step instructions described above will become more understandable and meaningful.

Frame installation assembly process:

Installing a block installation in a niche:

Attaching the toilet to the installation frame:

The proposed step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet with frame and block installations take several hours of work, if you do not take into account the time to create a decorative box.

The essence of the installation comes down to smooth and strong fastening of the frame, connecting the pipes and docking the toilet bowl with the flush block. This can be accomplished by every business person who knows how to handle the necessary tools.

Do you have practical skills in attaching a toilet to an installation? Share your own installation experience or ask questions about the topic of the article. The comment block is located below.

Renovating a bathroom is quite a troublesome task. The room is often very small and there are passages on the walls here and there. water pipes, risers, sewerage. Someone wants to install a wall-mounted toilet and so on. In general, all together this greatly interferes with tiling - it has to be trimmed in huge quantities (and figuratively too).

Finishers have long found a way out of this situation - all complex and hard to reach places covered with plasterboard, which is an excellent base for tiles. Today we will talk to you about how to cover an installation with plasterboard - a process that is not very complicated, but requires knowledge of certain details and points.

Properties of drywall as a material for tiles

So, what are the advantages we get when we close communications with an installation:

Firstly, we will have a level base on which we can lay tiles efficiently and beautifully;
Secondly, we will make the repair technologically advanced, getting rid of incorrect angles of joints and abutments of planes.
Thirdly, new designs can act as interior decorations.
And fourthly, such structures may also have an additional functional purpose in the form of shelves for shower accessories or cleaning products, which in conditions limited space very helpful.

However, you shouldn’t take everything so unambiguously positively, because you also need to take into account some negative aspects.

Covering any communication line makes it very difficult to reach.
As a solution, inspection hatches are installed, but these measures can be called partial, since they provide access mainly to taps, meters, filters and other things.
Many connections, especially corner ones, remain out of reach, and, as you know, accidents sometimes happen in these places - the plumber could have soldered the pipes poorly.
As a result of an accident, to get to problem area, you have to break both tiles and drywall. Sometimes together with the frame.

Otherwise, there are no downsides as such, and if you are confident in the quality plumbing work, then you can safely take up the instrument.

Drywall and water

Many people probably know that drywall strongly absorbs moisture. Yes, they exist special types for installation in damp rooms, but they also quickly become unusable when in contact with water.

The reason for this is that the main strength of the sheets is given by the cardboard layers on the sides, which become limp when wet.
Moisture can get into the sheets not only from the pipes, but also when laying the tiles themselves, so you should be very careful when you try to tear off these tiles. At the same time, it is very easy to remove the cardboard layer, but you cannot leave the wall in this state.

Only competent finishing can save you from moisture, and now we are talking not so much about laying tiles, but about sealing the seams between them.
Otherwise, drywall can be called an ideal material. He has a very high degree adhesion, the sheets are not very expensive, despite the fact that they have an area of 3 square meters.
The price of such finishing will be acceptable for many, but ideally smooth surfaces will allow you to lay tiles much faster, more accurately and with better quality.
Covering walls with plasterboard is a procedure that is easy enough for even home craftsmen to master. The work does not require expensive and specific tools, with rare exceptions.
The process does not stir up much dirt and is much faster than plastering walls.

As you can see, there are a lot of advantages, and it is not surprising that most craftsmen choose this particular preparation of walls for tiles.

Advice! By the way, plasterboard installations are often combined with plastered walls, which means you can install such a structure in any case.

Types of plasterboard installations

Those installations that we mentioned before are closely related to the bathroom, but they are not the only options for these designs. We offer you several photographs to view so that you can understand the variety of technical solutions and capabilities of this material.

We see a hood assembled from plasterboard. You can place ready-made equipment inside the structure or install powerful fans and lighting separately. This solution is good because it fits perfectly into the kitchen interior, because you are free to give the design any shape and size.
The outside of the hood will be puttied and painted. In this case, it is worth using vapor-proof paint, for example, latex, so that the painted drywall does not deform and lose its appearance due to the abundance of steam.

If dad is a jack of all trades, then after completing the repairs, he can make such a beautiful, reliable and practical doll house for his daughter from the remains of drywall. Not quite an installation, but the thing is functional, and your princess will definitely appreciate it.

From plasterboard you can make full-fledged furniture, and even its complexes. IN in this example we see a corner niche with several shelves, space for a TV and a large tabletop for workplace, covered with thick and durable glass.
This approach allows you to properly organize the space, which is very important for small-sized housing, for example, studio apartments.

Various false walls and panels are also, in fact, installations; they hide electrical wiring underneath and give the room unusual look. These structures can be safely called functional and decorative, which fully reflects their purpose.

Advice! To lay wires in drywall, additional insulation in the form of PVC corrugation must be used, since the sharp edges of the frame can damage the wires.

But still, more often we are talking about installations in the bathroom. Tables under sinks are very popular, which, unlike legs and small bedside tables made of chipboard, can hide a large household appliances, which, in fact, is shown in the photograph.
To decorate such elements, mosaics, tile decors and any other contrasting materials suitable for the interior are often used.

Bath screens made from plasterboard are very popular today, especially in rooms where the length of the bathroom is shorter than that of the room. Usually the remaining space is expanded to create a shelf for shampoos and other small items. This design also helps to securely fix the bathtub.

Please note that copper pipes were used for the water supply. This option is quite expensive, but it lasts an incredibly long time. To this day, old houses with functioning copper water pipes, which are already well over 100 years old, have been preserved.
That is, we want to say that a person, without fear, sews pipes into boxes. Of course, polypropylene lasts much less, but it will last for 15-20 years, and during this time you will probably want to update the finish in the bathroom, so if you are confident high-quality installation, you can also safely close everything.

This is how you would competently get around this place if it weren’t for the plasterboard box - no way, or you had to clean out all the hardened concrete without a trace, and leave the sewer pipe in sight.
At all, sewer pipes very reliable. Leaks in them are extremely rare, since water flows inside by gravity, without pressure, so these pipes must be closed.

Visually, it may seem that such massive boxes take up a lot of space, but this impression is deceptive. In fact, we do not lose anything, since this area is not useful and is almost never used - it is impossible to move anything normally towards the pipes, it is difficult to bring the same ceiling skirting boards and so on.
Creation right angle solves these and many other problems, and high-quality cut tiles will look beautiful.

In old houses (Khrushchev), bathrooms were often made with one beveled side, and this partition contained a door and was never evenly straight.
Drywall will allow you to eliminate such inaccuracies, which cannot be said about the same plaster.

We sew the installation

In general, as you can see, there are a lot of options for installations and other designs. You can come up with something yourself, adapting specifically to the room being finished, and we’ll talk about more standard things.

Let's figure out how to assemble a box, make a screen for the bathroom, install a wall-hung toilet, while learning about the materials and tools that need to be purchased for this.

Materials

So, here are the building materials that we will need for our work.

The drywall itself. There are three types of it, but in private houses and apartments only 2 of them are mainly used - gypsum plasterboard (sheets gray) and GKLV (green). The first option is suitable for dry rooms. The second one has some moisture resistance and protection against the appearance of microorganisms, which is why it is placed in the bathroom.

Advice! It is best to sheathe a bathroom with GVLV - this material is practically the same as plasterboard, but instead of paper it uses a special reinforcing fiber. These sheets are very durable and practically impervious to moisture.

Drywall is also distinguished by thickness: wall plasterboard has parameters of 2500 (3000) x 1200 x 12 mm; ceiling 2500x1200x9.5 mm or 3000x1200x 9.5 mm; arched, or as it is also called, restoration - the same length and width with a thickness of only 6.5 mm.

How to choose necessary sheets? It's simple! Look at the purpose of the room and the dimensions of future structures, although the second is of little significance.

Very often, the structures under consideration are assembled from a ceiling profile. The fact is that, despite its smaller dimensions, it has good rigidity, subject to purchase quality material. This allows you to save a little space, and also on the cost of the structure.
The profile shown is a guide. Its wall analogs are marked as PN 50 (75, 100)*40. Their purpose is exactly the same, and the thickness is selected according to the plan.

The next profile is the main one for the ceiling. Its wall analogues are marked PS (rack-mount profile). Pay attention to the inwardly curved edges - this is what gives the part higher rigidity compared to the guides, however, many designs are sewn without their use, since the reliability of PN options is often abundant.
Other fittings that are used when constructing planes (single-level connectors, hangers, extensions, etc.) are used extremely rarely when constructing installations, since everything can only be assembled from profiles.

The connection of drywall to each other and to the profiles is done with these metal screws. The length of these elements is selected according to the layer for which they are intended - for the first 25 mm, for the second 45 or higher.

The frame is tightened with these tiny screws, 9.5 mm long. They fit into metal very easily and have a convenient head for a standard screwdriver bit.

Also in some cases you may need: vapor barrier for drywall, insulation, fiberglass mesh, etc.

Advice! Installation with insulation in the bathroom is installed when there is a risk of the room freezing from the outside. This measure helps protect the same water pipes from freezing. A vapor barrier is needed to protect mineral insulation from humidity.

Can drywall be primed? It’s not possible, but it’s necessary. Increasing the properties of resistance to moisture and microorganisms will never hurt.
How to treat the surface then? We take the simplest composition deep penetration with the addition of an antiseptic. They quickly absorb and dry, improve adhesion and bind dust particles settled on the surface into a durable film.

Tools

Now it's time to list the tools.

A hammer drill is necessary when the base to which we are connecting is concrete or brick. A 6 mm drill bit is included with it.

You need to use a screwdriver to assemble the frame and twist the drywall. We recommend purchasing several cue balls of different lengths for it - there may be cases when an angled attachment is required to access hard-to-reach places.

If you assemble the entire structure from guide profiles, then you can connect all the elements with a cutter. This is reliable, does not require fasteners, plus the frame turns out to be more even (protruding screw heads lead to curvature).

We will use a rasp to trim the cuts that, when broken, will turn out to have differences. The device costs mere pennies, but simplifies the task significantly.

Carrying drywall when working alone can be a lot of inconvenience, so a special handle designed for this purpose will be useful. It is convenient to work with, but it is used mainly for large objects.

It is necessary to chamfer the cut edges of the drywall to a certain depth so that the putty has somewhere to go. For these purposes, such a plane is used. Its price is also low.
You will also need a measuring tool. Ideally, it would be nice to have a laser level, but if necessary, it can easily be replaced with a regular bubble and water level, as well as a plumb line. Along the way, we take into account a tape measure, a pencil and a marker. It is convenient to draw perpendicular lines using a carpenter's square.

We will devote a separate chapter to cutting drywall, so we will list the tools for these purposes in it.

Basic rules for building a frame

As you can see, the variety of plasterboard installations is great, and they have very different forms. However, no matter how complex the frame may be, it is assembled according to one principle, knowing which, you can independently come up with your own variations of execution.

Firstly, the frame must have a base. These are places adjacent to main walls, floors, and ceilings. Here a guide profile is installed, which is securely pulled to the base using dowel screws (by the way, we did not mention them when listing the materials) or self-tapping screws.
Secondly, the frame must have a main part of vertical and horizontal elements, which, when connected together, will give not only the shape, but also the rigidity of the entire structure.
Thirdly, corner free-standing puffs must be connected by jumpers to the profile fixed to the wall.

Fourth, the frame must contain mortgages in plasterboard if you plan to subsequently screw something heavy to it that will put a load on the material. For example, under a baguette stretch ceiling or a locker.

Advice! Craftsmen often forget about mortgages, or their need is discovered after the repair. How to screw something massive to drywall in this case? We use drywall screws or other dowels designed for these purposes.

Number of horizontal and vertical elements in the frame is determined by its shape and the presence of windows for installing equipment, inspection hatches and other things. If nothing like this is being done, then you can take a step between them of 50-60 centimeters.
If the box is narrow enough (up to 40 centimeters), then the racks and lintels can be omitted, shifting the load-bearing function to the drywall itself.
All elements, unless otherwise required by the design, are installed strictly according to level

Actually, that's all! Nobody develops technologies specifically for individual premises. By following these rules, you will definitely cope with the task.

How to cut drywall

Sheathing installations often involves working not with whole sheets, but with small pieces that need to be cut correctly. Holes are also cut in the drywall different shapes, under different needs. How and how this is done, we will understand in this chapter.

When a sheet is cut in a straight line, a stationery knife or a special cutter is usually used. In the first case, the sheet is placed on a flat plane, for example, on a table for drywall, after which it is cut along a flat guide top layer cardboard Then the sheet is broken and cut on the reverse side.

The cutter is able to immediately cut the cardboard on both sides, after which it only needs to be broken.

As you understand, a knife will not help when you need to make an L-shaped cut or a cut in the center of the material. In this case, you will need to saw, and absolutely any files or hacksaws will be suitable for this.
Curvilinear cuts are best made electric jigsaw– it’s both fast and accurate.

How to cut drywall in circles? It depends, of course, on the size of the hole, but usually they talk about either a special file, as in the photo above, or crowns - suitable for wood. The second option will allow you to make a hole with smooth edges in just a few seconds, and the first will allow you to make a hole of a non-standard size.

Installation sheathing process

We mentioned that we would tell you about the installation of the box, screen and wall-mounted toilet. Let's break the processes into different chapters, since although they are similar, they contain some differences.

Screen

Let's start with what every bathroom needs, namely a screen. It will be described step by step, paying attention to the main points. You can complete the rest in your mind yourself, using the principles given above.

First of all, we make markings and we start from the top, from the points where the bathroom joins the walls.
Take two pieces of drywall and lay them together to simulate the thickness of the screen trim with the tiles installed.
Bring the workpiece over the edge of the side and make a mark with a pencil; we perform a similar procedure on the other side.

Next, install the laser level so that it outlines the plane. We combine the laser with our marks and the marking is ready. No laser level– take any other one and take measurements as accurately as possible. Draw a line on the floor to indicate the position of the bottom rail.

We attach the guides along the lines. The installation step of the dowel screws is 40-50 centimeters.

Next you need to make the top jumper. There is nowhere to support it, so the element must have good rigidity.
To make it, we will take 2 PP and 2 PPN profiles. First, we insert one into one PP profiles, after which we put guides on the sides for fixation. The structure can be secured in several places with self-tapping screws so that it does not fall apart.
Another PPN profile is screwed from below so that we can technologically install vertical racks screen.

Next, we put the jumper in place and fix its position with self-tapping screws. The structure turns out to be durable and after covering and finishing with tiles, it will be motionless.
Then the racks are cut and installed in the frame - a step of 60 centimeters.

A gap is left between the bathtub and the horizontal lintel, which needs to be filled professionally (with a slight secondary expansion) polyurethane foam. When the surface of the foam is no longer sticky (after 5-7 minutes), and the foam is still soft, we will need to carefully push it inside the structure.

Now, when completely dry, the foam will become stronger, almost like glass, which is what we need to strengthen the bathroom and seal the seam.

Toilet

Here everything happens in a similar way, so we won’t go into too much detail.

According to installed installation We determine the boundaries of the frame, not forgetting to take into account the thickness of the drywall and tiles.
Using the profile, we mark the installation locations of the guide profiles on all walls. For this we use a level and a dye thread, although the second is not necessary.
An interesting feature of this frame is that it must be flush with the frame holding the plumbing.

According to the markings, we install the guide profile - here again, as you can see, PPN is used.

We prepare the guide for the floor. In order for it to fit into the desired plane, it can be broken into separate pieces, or slots can be made like in the photo above.

To install horizontal lintels, we attach pieces of PPN to the frame in the right places using a drill and metal screws with a press washer.

Then, constantly using the level, we set external corner and a jumper. The elements are connected to the guide pieces of the profile. Don't forget to also check the straightness of the resulting angle.

Then we cover everything with two layers of drywall. In the front part we cut holes for fasteners, water and drainage.

Box

The box is even easier to assemble, especially a vertical one, in which there may be no jumpers at all.

We mark the boundaries of the box with the same tools that we mentioned earlier.

We again attach the guides, including the floor and ceiling ones, which should form a right angle in relation to each other.

We place the profile on the outer corner. This element can be made from paired PPNs so that they look at the wall guides. This will allow you to easily insert jumpers on both sides.

Next, we install all the jumpers, including those that form the inspection windows. By the way, we also install vertical elements in them.

Everything is the whole frame. Agree, everything is simple and intuitive. You already know how to cover all this with drywall, so we’ll just summarize the material.

Covering an installation with plasterboard is a fairly simple matter, which, if available, the right tool Probably everyone will do it. These designs are very functional and technologically advanced, as you can also see. We hope you had an interesting time with us - see you soon!

Installations – modern way installation of toilets is increasingly used when renovating a bathroom. The installation system for wall-hung toilets consists of a metal frame from which the bowl is suspended, and all supply communications and systems that ensure the functionality of the device are hidden behind decorative cladding. Most often, the box for installing a toilet is lined with plasterboard and lined with ceramic tiles. Let's consider general principle And step by step instructions, how to properly sheathe the installation.

In addition to the installation itself (frame and all necessary components), for hidden installation a wall-hung toilet will require galvanized profiles to construct the frame and moisture-resistant plasterboard to cover it. Often, installation cladding is part of the overall finishing of the bathroom. In such cases, complex frame systems are created, so it is impossible to do without the involvement of a specialist. It is quite simple to carry out the cladding directly to the installation. You can do this yourself, which will require the following tools:

Bubble or laser level, tape measure, square and marker for marking.
Screwdriver.
Drill, drill bits for concrete and metal.
Metal scissors.
Knife for cutting plasterboard, sandpaper for rubbing corners.

Pay attention! Before installing and covering the installation with plasterboard, the bathroom must be rough work: walls are prepared and leveled, communications are laid and checked for leaks.

Performing markup

When everything preparatory work completed and the structure for concealed mounting of the toilet is installed, make markings for attaching the frame:

In the example under consideration, the top cladding is done to a minimum, so the mark is placed flush with metal frame. If there is no laser level to align in one plane as indicated, the line is transferred using a square or a building level.
Then the plane of the front frame post is transferred to the walls.

Frame installation

Assembling a simple frame is also not difficult even for novice craftsmen:

Pay attention! To attach the jumpers to the metal frame of the installation, a small section of the guide profile is first screwed to it using self-tapping screws and a drill.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Now all that remains is to sheathe frame structure drywall. The general technology is similar to the cladding of other frame systems, but is produced in two layers: this is necessary to enhance the strength characteristics of the cladding.

First, two strips are cut out of drywall and mounted on the top “shelf.”

Then the first layer of the front casing is installed, in which holes are pre-cut for mounting and connecting the toilet, as well as for the flush mechanism. Fastening to the profiles is done with ordinary black self-tapping screws, and to the frame - with self-tapping screws and a drill.

When the first sheet of drywall is secured, prepare the second sheet. Holes are also cut out in it, after which it is installed on top of the first gypsum board. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws of suitable length, and care must be taken not to get into the heads of previous hardware.

How to make a collapsible box

If it is necessary to provide access to communications, there is interesting way make a collapsible box from plasterboard and tiles. General construction technology collapsible design does not differ from the installation casing:

First, a profile frame is assembled around a metal frame.
Then blanks from the plasterboard sheet are measured and cut out to cover the frame.
Then fastening is carried out plasterboard sheathing to the frame, which is performed at several points: usually two self-tapping screws are screwed in from each edge of the gypsum board, top and bottom. When the skin is “stuck”, they glue it onto it. ceramic tiles. At the same time, during tiling, fixing plasterboard sheet the screws are unscrewed. First, the tile is glued from below, the lower screws are first unscrewed, after the glue sets, the fixation is made through the tile: to do this, a hole is drilled in it, into which the self-tapping screw is then screwed, then the upper part of the tile is glued. The screw caps are then closed with plastic plugs that match the color of the tile.

This design of the “screen” allows, if necessary, to remove the decorative plugs, unscrew the hardware and carefully remove the front panel and thus provide free access to communications hidden behind the cladding.

Pay attention! To prevent the tile from cracking when fastening through it, the screws are very carefully tightened by hand with a screwdriver.

Installation dimensions

When choosing and determining the installation location of the installation, attention is paid and its dimensions are taken into account. This is especially important if you decide to install the installation in a niche in the wall. The dimensions of the product depend on the type of structure. The main parameters depending on the type of installation are as follows.

Frame products have the following dimensions:

height: 80–140 cm;
width: 50–60 cm;
depth: 15–30 cm.

The dimensions of block-type structures are as follows:

height: 80–120 cm;
width: 50 cm;
depth: 10–15 cm.

The installation fits perfectly into any modern interior and allows you to save bathroom space. In order for the structure to last a long time and not fail, during installation and cladding of the installation you must follow the rules and recommendations of the manufacturer.

Advice! If you need bathroom renovation specialists, there is a very convenient service for selecting specialists from. Just fill out the order details, the specialists will respond themselves and you can choose who to cooperate with. Each specialist in the system has a rating, reviews and examples of work, which will help with the choice. Looks like a mini tender. Placing an application is FREE and does not oblige you to anything. Works in almost all cities of Russia.

If you are a master, then go to, register in the system and you will be able to accept orders.