Rollers for profile pipes drawings. Rollers for profile pipes: making manual profile bending with your own hands

It is quite common to bend metal pipes at the desired angle or along a given contour, preferably without loss of strength qualities and internal working sections. IN pipeline systems– a great opportunity to do without unnecessary connecting parts, in structural structures made from profile pipes there is a certain freedom of design and design thought.

We specifically introduced this section to slightly cool down the natural fervor of our fellow citizens to do everything with their own hands: a handicraft mechanical or hydraulic pipe bender, rolls for it from random metal tubes, and damaged rolled metal - entertainment, of course, worthy of a real man, but it’s easier to look for ready-made profile products, which just need to be brought to condition.

For people who are far from such purely mundane topics, let us explain:

A pipe bender is a mechanical device that can bend pipes of any size and configuration. Options industrial design There are only three drive types:

  • manual: the simplest in principle of operation and the most complex in operation; the final deflection pattern of the pipe can be changed, but the physical effort to perform shaping work remains equally large;
  • hydraulic: a version of a semi-professional pipe bender with rollers made of alloy steel, which allows you to roll pipe profiles up to 80 mm without losing the strength properties of the pipe, crushing and stretching the working section;
  • electromechanical: industrial machine tool production, which produces the majority of finished structures from rolled pipes.

The rollers of a pipe bender are simply two round shafts made of high-strength material, between which the material being processed (in our case, an ordinary steel pipe) is “rolled” and takes a given shape.

Make a pipe bender yourself or buy a ready-made one

The question is funny because it touches on two absolutely different areas: financial and psychological. For many of our compatriots, it’s easier to buy a ready-made pipe bender, not have to worry about calculating rollers and loads, but simply take the instructions and quickly bend all the pipes that are available on a suburban site.

Most important question The thing that always comes up when purchasing expensive equipment is the price. For reference, let us inform you: a high-quality hydraulic pipe bender costs in the range of 22-35 thousand rubles. Perhaps your entire structure, built from bent profile pipes (shed, garage, summer kitchen) are priced cheaper. A manual pipe bending device with six bending profiles and a jack rod will cost 9,500-12,000 rubles.

Agree, if you do not plan to build up all your land with openwork greenhouses and gazebos of complex architectural forms, then such equipment costs are clearly unnecessary. Our natural intelligence begins to work and, as a result, the traditional Russian answer: we’ll do it ourselves.

How to make a pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands

We considered the entire range of profile steel pipes, their structural advantages and scope of application separately. Now we will try to bend them with our own hands along a given radius of the final product.

It is very important to avoid the following technical defects:

  • cracking; such metal profile will have to be thrown away;
  • compression or tension of surfaces at points of potential load on a structural element;
  • deformation of the original profile, leading to a violation of the resistance of the metal (corrosion and mechanical) in the bending and fracture units of the supporting structure.

If you are ready to make a unit and rollers for such work with your own hands, honor and praise to you. The simplest homemade pipe bender with electrically driven rolling rollers (any electric motor with a gearbox will do) and a clamping device made of an ordinary steel pipe. It is mounted on a regular car jack and, judging by the reviews, produces high-quality arched products.

We appreciate the technical discoveries of our “Kulibins”, but we recommend buying ready-made rolled metal of any configuration or making it to order according to your drawings and ideas, without particularly straining your hands and head.

From this article you will learn how to assemble a pipe bending machine yourself. Also in the article you will find information on how to make a pipe bender with your own hands, videos and drawings with comments on the assembly and use of the machine. We will talk about the nuances of installation and share secrets.

Pipe bending machines are necessary not only in professional, but also homework. Bends of pipes along a large radius are especially relevant - they are used to make the ribs of the frames of greenhouses, canopies, and hotbeds. About how to do simple machines for bending pipes, we will tell you in this article.

What is the difference between bending round and profile pipes

Straight and round pipes initially have different purposes- round for water supply (sometimes poles), straight for the frame. Therefore, they have different requirements for the tightness and safety of the wall - round pipe should preserve the properties as much as possible. In this regard, thrust wheels and mandrels always have a groove of a certain diameter. Wheels and headstocks for profile pipe They have either a rectangular groove or a “tooth” around the entire circumference. It crushes the pipe wall inward and thereby maintains the cross-sectional dimensions. This is relevant because the straight profile is bent under a small radius, mainly in order to obtain decorative elements of the so-called “cold forging”.

DIY profile pipe bender on rollers

Home homemade version This machine is schematically taken from factory models. The design is simplified as much as possible and is within the power of a novice master. According to the principle of operation, roller machines are divided into two main types - with press rollers and with a lifting platform (platforms). In this case, the main structure is almost the same, the only difference is which element will determine the radius of the arch. We will consider simple design with a lifting platform.

1, 3 - channel; 2 - racks; 4 - rollers; 5 - loop; 6 - jack

To create the machine, you will need three pairs of bearings with a seat diameter of at least 30 mm - this will be the basis of the rollers. Also, the shafts themselves should be selected for them so that they fit into the bearings (scrap, wheel, factory shafts, automotive parts). The rest of the material - channel, 10 mm steel plate, angle - can be varied depending on available supplies.

Execution of work:

  1. Take a reliable base, for example, a thick-walled channel 100-150 mm long 800 mm.
  2. From the same channel you need to make platforms - two sections of 300 mm each.
  3. 500 mm from one of the sides we vertically weld a central post 350 mm high from square pipe or a paired channel.
  4. From above, strictly horizontally, we weld a fixed platform and a rear pillar to it.
  5. We increase the walls from the profile pipe to a height of 120 mm. The height must be maintained in such a way that the size in the drawing is no less than the maximum thickness of the pipe that is supposed to be bent.
  6. To create a moving platform you need to make a loop. We select a pipe and a “finger” so that it fits into it without play. We cut the pipe to the width of the channel and divide it into three parts. We weld the two outer ones to the frame, and the third (middle) to a 300 mm section of channel. We mount the connection “on the finger”.
  7. We weld bearings to both parts of the platform 50 mm from the edge on both sides, as well as on the extended walls. Reinforce with corners.

Attention! Make sure the bearings are aligned - misalignment will not allow you to install the shaft.

  1. We install the rollers in the bearings. We mount a removable crank on the middle roller, for example, a bicycle pedal.
  2. At the end of the moving platform, you need to install a regulating mechanism. Ideally, a hydraulic jack, but you can get by with a threaded one (rod from the machine, leg from the scaffolding). The lift is also secured to the base with bolts.
  3. If desired, legs can be welded to the base for mounting on bolts.

Home pipe bender, video

Hydraulic profile pipe bender for small radii

The three-point machine differs from other types of pipe benders not so much in the drive (hydraulics), but in the way the force is applied. The principle of operation of this device is extremely simple - a section of pipe, fixed with a stop at two points, is pressed in the middle (at the third point) by a radial mandrel with a groove, gradually taking its shape.

This pipe bender is convenient because it can be mounted on a movable platform with wheels for transportation. The platform will be needed in any case, since the force directed to the mandrel will need to be compensated by the stop. Pressure of this force can be applied using a mechanical (threaded) or hydraulic jack.

To make a pipe bender you will need the following materials:

  1. Steel plates 10 mm with dimensions 600x150 mm - 2 pcs., 300x80 - 1 pc.
  2. Strip or cut from a plate 6-10 mm long 450 mm - 4 pcs.
  3. Bolts with nuts Ø 10 mm and 20 mm.
  4. Tension springs 200 mm.

Tool:

  1. Welding and metalworking - a powerful grinder, welding machine, drill from 850 W (machine).
  2. Measuring and marking - tape measure, squares, marker, center punch.
  3. Consumables— metal cutting and grinding discs, metal drills 6, 10 and 16 mm.

The machine will consist of a spatially rigid frame and a removable car jack. The main advantage of the collapsible machine is the ability to use the jack separately - there is no need to purchase it specifically for the pipe bender. In principle, the power drive can be a diesel internal combustion engine. Its main task is to produce sufficient force to overcome the resistance of the pipe.

Frame making

The frame consists of two mirror elements - frame walls - and a heel on which the jack will be installed. Structural elements are arranged according to the drawing.

1 - bolts; 2 - jack; 3 - mandrel

The work plate is marked from the vertical axis (if the frame is vertical). The first lower holes are located 40 mm from the edge and 75 mm from the axis. The axes of the outer holes are 25 mm from the outer edge. Having marked the first and outer holes of the wing in this way, you can build an axis of intermediate holes, then divide it into equal segments. The intersections of the marks and the inclined axis will be the axes of the holes.

It is better to drill holes Ø 22 mm in several approaches, gradually increasing the diameter (for example, Ø 6, Ø 10, Ø 18, Ø 22). This is especially true if there is no drilling machine, but only a drill.

Attention! Remember that the larger the diameter, the lower the drill rotation speed and the stronger the pressure.

The mirror plate is made in a similar way. The lower thrust plate should be marked evenly along the axes and the locations of the mounting holes for the jack should be identified. The heel of the jack always has standard mounting holes.

The height of the structure is determined by the dimensions of the existing jack and the distance from the bottom of the mandrel groove to the contact surface of the thrust roller (headstock) strictly vertically (dimension a in the drawing). Distance a should be approximately 20 mm with the jack rod fully retracted (no load). This is necessary to install a pipe of minimum diameter (15-16 mm).

Free corners (shaded in yellow) can be cut off. All edges and ends should be sanded with a grinder, preferably then passed with a “petal” disc.

Machine assembly

The distance between the mirror plates should be several millimeters greater than the maximum diameter of the pipe to be bent. For a machine of this type, the optimal maximum is 50 mm. Total between the plates is 53-55 mm. The thrust rollers must be the exact size (height of the cylinder) and should be installed first before welding. Having determined the location of the steel strips on the heel, we weld the structure together.

Then, in the lower third, we determine the optimal position of the intermediate shelf and attach a return spring to it. The fastening of the spring to the jack rod is selected individually, based on the design of the jack and available means.

Special elements

There is one nuance in a three-point pipe bender - one part cannot be made at home and you will have to turn to a turner or buy it. This is a mandrel. Manufacturing one mandrel costs from 10 to 25 USD. e. depending on the size and complexity. The price of mandrels in the store is from 20 USD. e.

The thrust rollers are also worthy of special mention. They can be a powerful steel bushing for a 20 mm axle (bolt). Along the outer plane, you can weld homemade mandrels for the main diameters - 25, 32, 38 and 50 mm or profiles. A mandrel for the thrust roller can be made by cutting it out of a larger diameter pipe and straightening it with a hammer.

Simplified machine options

For a large volume of work with thin (16-25 mm) pipes, as well as thin-walled ones (copper, aluminum, stainless steel), you can assemble a simple version of the described machine from literally several strips of metal. Such a machine will be many times lighter, but the range of workpiece diameters is limited. The main difference is that the holes are located in a row perpendicular to the jack rod.

If out of stock hydraulic jack, you can replace it with a threaded one, mounting it in place in the thrust heel of the frame. To do this, you need to burn a hole in it and weld a nut under the threaded rod, similar to how a pipe bender is made, the video of which is located below.

Manual three-point pipe bender with threaded jack on video

The convenience of the design lies in the fact that it can be completely modified while maintaining the basic principle of three contact points. As a result, you can get the same pipe bender, but from different materials. In a stationary version it may look like this:

Watch the video for vertical three-point pipe bender

The pinnacle of convenience and technology, without a doubt, will be a hydraulic jack with electric drive. This is aerobatics home handyman, but quite possible option with developed skills and access to a turning shop. Such models are on sale.

In order to assemble a pipe bender with your own hands, it is not so much the drawings that are important, but the availability of tools and available materials - metal, wheels, bearings, etc. Using our advice and your own skills, this is quite within the capabilities of a home craftsman.

Profile pipe is an element of many building structures and frames. Used in the construction of industrial and residential buildings. The main characteristic that distinguishes it from other types of pipes is the non-round shape of the cut. A profile pipe is produced from a sheet, welded and bent lengthwise in the desired shape. If necessary, you can make rollers for a profile pipe with your own hands - you will find drawings and explanations in this article.

Manufacturing of profile pipes using the rolling method

Assortment of profile pipes

In factory conditions, two methods are used for the production of profile pipes from sheet metal:

  • hot method, at which the straight-seam round pipe heats up;
  • cold method, in which rollers for a profile pipe are rolled over unheated metal.

The basis for production is carbon, low-alloy, less often stainless steel. Modern factory equipment will allow you to obtain a profile with high accuracy seams and bends, since the process is controlled by transmitting data from a computer and receiving it from sensors that take readings with an accuracy of thousandths of a millimeter. Homemade rollers for profile pipes cannot provide such detail, but they cope with the task of producing elements for home construction and household work. This technique is used to produce consumable elements for fences and canopies, greenhouses and technical buildings, gutters and cable ducts. It is not recommended to make a profile pipe for large-scale buildings at home. Factory equipment makes it possible to subject each manufactured element to test tests and check both the quality of the seam and the accuracy of profile calibration. The absence of such equipment does not give the master the opportunity to guarantee the quality of a homemade product.

Assembly of a machine for profile production

Application of curved profile pipes

A do-it-yourself rolling machine for a profile pipe looks similar to a design for bending pipes. It consists of the following elements:

  • supporting frame;
  • roller system;
  • pressing mold:
  • stop and levers for activating the rolling mechanism.

In fact, these are two different mechanisms and only the frame can be similar. All structural elements are assembled from durable elements and welded: any defects or negligence can result in a work-related injury. The machine itself is firmly fixed to the surface.

It is almost impossible to provide the required pressure manually: it is advisable to equip the press for creating a profile pipe with an electric drive.

In the machine for shaping the profile about round shape the main thing is a press that twists a sheet of metal. This kind of pressure only gives robust design: The pipe must be held motionless throughout the welding period. To simplify the work, the metal is heated and then rolled. After welding, the round pipe is checked for the quality of the connection: an insufficiently smooth and clean seam will separate when rolling of the profile pipe from a round shape to a rectangular or square one begins.

Workpiece processing process

The finished straight-seam pipe is rolled hot or cold. At home, it is difficult to organize hot rolling, so the process is often carried out on already cooled metal.

The pipe is placed under a press of rollers, forming the required shape.

Rolling is carried out gradually with a decrease in the distance between the upper and lower rollers. Sudden pressure will cause internal folds in the metal, which will affect the strength of the knees. The last rolling reaches the planned diameter and cut contour.

The pipe is checked for cracks and metal deformation in the bend area after each rolling. Zone special attention– the seam area, it is the most vulnerable.

After processing with rollers, the pipe is calcined: this measure eliminates the stress of the metal layers and increases the strength of the structure as a whole.

Bending of profile pipes

Masters rarely decide to self-production profile pipe, preferring to purchase ready-made factory-produced material. The profile pipe is an inexpensive consumable element, so bending is necessary with my own hands No. A machine for bending profile pipes with your own hands is a more popular equipment, since the element is sold directly, and ordering bending according to your own drawings is an expensive service. A curved or rounded profile is used for construction and construction decorative elements as more aesthetic. Frames and cornices, greenhouse arches and gate arches can be made with your own hands. The simplest rollers for bending a profile pipe are assembled in a few hours. They will not provide industrial volumes and accuracy, but they will reduce the costs of producing individual elements.

Bending quality requirements

The simplest way bending of profile pipes - glow and pressure. In this way you can even create acute angle, but you shouldn’t count on the accuracy and strength of the knot. Folds on inner surface knees and cracks on the outside are guaranteed. Bending without defects is achieved only by gradually rolling the pipe on rollers and calculating the minimum diameter. Maximum angle bend is not standardized, the minimum is limited by safety requirements. A standard factory machine for bending a profile pipe sets the minimum diameters of a round bend, and you can use these same indicators when creating homemade machine:

  • pipes 20x20x2, 25x25x2, 15x15x1.5 - 56 cm;
  • pipes 30x30x2 – 65 cm
  • pipes 40x20x2 - 65 cm;
  • pipes 40x40x2 – 180 cm;
  • pipes 50x25x2 - 80 cm.

Machine drawings for home use

The simplest deformable structure can be assembled right in the yard or technical room, securing all the elements to a dense shield or directly to the fence. Elementary models will help out if you need to bend several pipes into a single shape, for example, to install the upper arches of a greenhouse. Regardless of the selected bend diameter and the size of the pipe itself, you will need:

  1. A frame that follows the contour of the required arch. It is cut from a single piece of wood or assembled from a series of planks. The pipe will bend according to this stencil.
  2. Support on one side of the frame. The gap between the stop and the stencil is made corresponding to the diameter of the pipe being processed. A smaller one will make it difficult to install the element into the device, a larger one will not secure the knee firmly.
  3. A block with which the pipe is manually pressed against the template.

Working with such a pipe bender is difficult: all efforts will have to be done manually. But the design will ensure accuracy when bending: you can make several elements with an identical angle of deformation on it.

The pipe bender for permanent use is assembled on a durable U-shaped frame. The following elements are required in his system:

  • two rotating shafts mounted on a rail, along which the profile will pass during rolling;
  • an extrusion shaft located above them, which presses the profile during rolling;
  • a clamp or jack that provides pressure;
  • a chain with which the set of rollers will move.

To assemble rollers for a profile pipe with your own hands, you will need a welding machine and skills engineering work. Inaccuracies in calculating the diameter of the functional shafts will make the device inoperable.

Video: working with a manual profile bender

Assembling a bending device with your own hands is a complex, time-consuming and expensive process. Against the background of moderate prices for equipment, it is worth thinking about the rationality of the purchase. Perhaps, to bend several elements, it is more profitable to contact a workshop, and for constant work, purchase a factory model with a quality guarantee.

The only tool that can change the shape of a profile pipe is rollers. And since bent metal products are often used in construction, this tool is simply irreplaceable. Rollers for profile pipes are different types, including you can make them yourself.

Roller types

Structurally, this tool for forming arc-shaped profile pipes can be divided into types, according to the source of the applied force.

Electric rollers are the most productive; they are characterized by the largest amount of bent products produced per unit of time compared to other types. Productivity increases due to the presence of a working electric motor, with the help of which the formation new form pipes happens quite quickly.

Basic structural elements electric pipe bender:

  • base, which is a metal frame;
  • from 3 to 5 rollers, which rotate by means of an electric motor;
  • power plant in the form of an electric motor;
  • deforming clamps.

Manual rollers for bending profile pipes are considered a practical portable tool. Due to its relatively small size and lack of electric drive, they are installed in any suitable place, even where work space is limited. The design of manual rollers for bending a profile pipe is similar to the design of electric ones, with the only difference being that they do not have an electric drive, and the feed rollers are interconnected by a transmission on a chain, which deforms the pipe using clamps.

Manual pipe benders are characterized by design flaws. Despite the fact that such rollers are very convenient for performing a small amount of work, their operation requires the use of considerable physical force. bend metal pipe transmitting force on clamps and chain transmission is not so easy for one person. If the employee is not physically sufficient developed person or fatigue has accumulated from frequent repetition of operations, such a tool will be unproductive in production. Therefore such hand tool useful only when making small batches of bent products.

Hydraulic rollers are considered the most powerful equipment in comparison with the above-described analogues of bending tools. Hydraulic press in combination with a clamp, it transmits such a powerful force to the profile pipe that it bends like a reed. Such a unit can rightfully be called a “super heavyweight”. In a particular case, the bending force is increased by a hydraulic complex, which is easy to maintain and control. If, in addition to the existing equipment, we add an electric motor acting on the feed rollers, the efficiency of the unit will significantly increase - the possibilities of productivity and power will be combined.

Pay attention! This device can be improved even further. If the feed drum is replaced with a profiled shaft, then several profiled pipes can be bent at once in one go. Thanks to the properties of a hydraulic press and an electric drive, such a machine can process any number of products.

Unfortunately, hydraulically driven rollers weigh a lot. This disadvantage is manifested in the fact that if it is installed somewhere, then this place will remain working for the unit for for a long time- it will be very difficult to move it from its place. In order to understand the structure of the tool and the principle of deformation of a profile pipe, you can look at the drawings of rollers given below with the dimensions marked.

Operating principle of rollers

To bend a profile pipe on rollers, you do not need special knowledge and skills. The employee only needs to perform a few operations:

  • The pipe rests on two feed rollers.
  • With a certain force, the pipe is pressed against one bending roller of your choice.
  • The transmission mechanism is turned on.

As a result of the passage of a profiled pipe through work area it bends at the planned angle. If the degree of deformation is insufficient, the workpiece is passed through the working elements of the tool again, and the clamping force must be controlled.

Making homemade rollers

Today, hand-made rollers for profile pipes are often found in everyday life. A wide channel is used for the bed. The bending mechanism can be made from a U-shaped structure using a hydraulic jack or by welding with a nut top plate.

  • If a jack is used, it should be located under the bed, and the force should be directed from above onto the feed rollers.
  • In another case, the pipe is bent with a threaded clamp. The stud is screwed into the nut and welded to the end the desired shape heel.

When feeding the pipe, you can use a regular bicycle chain. Sprockets are welded onto the drive and driven shafts and the chain is tensioned. A handle is attached to the drive shaft.

Pay attention! The hardness of the feed rollers must exceed the profile pipe, so they are hardened.

Video

We invite you to look at a homemade pipe bender:

One of the most used machines in metallurgical production is a rolling machine (rollers). Using a rolling machine, you can carefully bend a metal sheet or pipe, or give an oval shape to other metal products. In addition, such machines are widely used in the jewelry industry, as well as the food and chemical industries. Crushing and rolling mechanisms are used to produce flour, and in the chemical industry, refining and sheet-bending mechanisms are used. Rollers for a profile pipe can be made with your own hands at home according to pre-drawn drawings. Moreover, such a machine will practically not be inferior in its technical specifications products manufactured at the factory.

The working parts of a rolling machine are cylinders. Giving the required shape to the metal is carried out by rotating cylinders and passing metal between them. As a rule, rolling machines have from 2 to 5 shafts, but models with 3 or 4 shafts are the most popular and practical.

The 3rd shaft is responsible for giving the required shape to the metal, and the distance between the rear and upper shafts provides the radius of curvature of the workpiece. The product is stretched and reduced in cross section by passing between the shafts. This is ensured sufficiently high temperature heating, as well as the pressure created by the shafts. To obtain a cylindrical shape from a workpiece, the rear and front shafts are adjusted in parallel; if a cone-shaped product is required, the rear shaft is positioned at a certain angle to the front one.

According to the bending methods, the following types are distinguished:

  • Crossbow. They specialize in processing pipes of a certain diameter;
  • Spring. They are characterized by the presence of a spring, which allows you to bend the plastic without deforming it or causing additional damage;
  • Segmental. Pipe deformation occurs under the influence of a certain segment;
  • Dornovye. They are mainly used for processing thin-walled pipes.

There are also stationary rolling mechanisms. Processing can be carried out at home. The main disadvantage of such mechanisms is extreme discomfort during operation, since such machines do not have fastenings and must be held with a free hand during operation.

Before creating a homemade rolling machine, it is necessary to understand that the dimensions of the mechanism significantly determine its final cost. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account in advance the dimensions of the parts that will most often have to be processed. Machines that are used on an industrial scale have shafts capable of bending pipes of various diameters at an angle of 180 degrees.

Applications


Most parts processed on rolling machines are cylindrical in shape. Therefore, their application is very diverse: drainpipes, chimneys and ventilation systems. Therefore, homemade stationary rollers of small sizes are very convenient to use directly on construction site. In addition, hand-made rollers do not cause damage. polymer coating sheet metal.

Rolling mechanisms

The most common orders for the rolling mechanism operator are the production of drains and ventilation systems. These orders generally do not require a thick layer. Therefore, in in this case It is recommended to use rotary mechanisms that have a wide range of processing thicknesses metal products: from 0.1 to 120 millimeters. Such devices also process plastic, ductile types of metals and rubber compounds.

Differences between common models


Machines that have 3 and 4 shafts differ from each other in the following parameters:

  • For three-roll models The sheet feed speed should not be higher than 5 meters per minute. They are also unable to process metal sheets thinner than 6 millimeters. Three-roll models do not have exact coordinates clamping points on the surface being machined, which makes it much more difficult to control the workpiece. But the advantages of such models include low cost.
  • Four roll machines are highly reliable; due to good adhesion between the shafts, such machines provide increased safety during work (due to the impossibility of slipping metal surface). The metal feed speed is more than 6 meters per minute. Four-roll machines are distinguished by workplace automation. Due to the complexity of the machines and ensuring safety in the workplace, such devices have a fairly high price.

Variety of rolling machines


Manual machines. The stationarity and practicality of using this type of machines cannot but captivate. Ease of operation and independence from power sources make such devices truly indispensable. A clamp and several shafts, driven by a chain drive, are attached to the machine bed. Of course, it is necessary to understand that such rollers are not intended for large-scale or industrial use, otherwise the service life of such devices will be quite short. At correct use manual rolling machines can be distinguished a whole series advantages:

  • Low cost;
  • Possibility of dismantling the upper shaft;
  • Available adjustment of the lower and rear shafts;
  • Small dimensions;
  • Reliability of the device due to the simplicity of the design.

Such mechanisms are widely used by jewelry workshops. The rotating cylinders are made of carbon alloy steel for added strength.

Hydraulic models. They have a hydraulic drive, which is characterized by high power. It has high performance and heavy weight.

Electrical units. They are characterized by high productivity due to the use of high power electric drives. The operating principle is identical to manual rolling machines, the only difference is the presence of an electric motor.

Requirements for homemade rollers

Rolling machines at home must meet the following requirements:

  • Mobility. The machine should not be bulky or heavy to ensure its mobility;
  • Economical. You should not use a high-power machine unless absolutely necessary, because a power of 20-25 kW can damage the wiring. 1.5 kW is the best option, with good throughput and low energy consumption.

Assembling the machine yourself


When assembling the machine with your own hands, you need to prepare everything necessary tools, pre-prepared machine drawings and materials. It is advisable to have experience in mechanizing devices and apparatus, and also take into account a certain sequence of actions:

  • Manufacturing begins from the base. That is, from the bed. As a frame, you can use a small frame assembled from pipes;
  • As a rule, deformation elements are installed in the upper part of the profile. To securely fix it, use a threaded clamp. The support is made in the form of the letter P, with the subsequent securing of the lower part in the frame;
  • To rotate the device, it is necessary to use a transmission chain;
  • After installing the chain on the sprockets, it is necessary to tension it and carry out work on assembling the feed handle;
  • For the production of rollers the best material is steel;
  • A prerequisite for such a mechanism is the ability to adjust the gap between the shafts;
  • To fix the rollers to the frame, experts recommend the use of rolling bearings.

Whether or not it’s worth making a rolling machine with your own hands is up to you to decide! It should be noted that the cost of ready-made units ranges from 500 to 1000 USD. Then, when calculating the profitability of the application, take the cost of the planned design, which may turn out to be several times cheaper than a new unit.

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