How to sew up pipes in a bathroom with plastic panels. How to close pipes in a toilet: effective ways to disguise communications

Plastic panels are becoming more and more popular due to the combination of their positive qualities, which suit the majority of consumers. These include an aesthetic appearance, a variety of colors and patterns, easy cleaning, practicality and affordable cost. This type of finishing is especially suitable for places that require strict sanitary standards, such as the bathroom and toilet. In addition to bathrooms, PVC panels are also used to decorate the walls and ceilings of hallways, as well as balconies and loggias.

Toilet finishing plastic panels is the best option for those apartment owners who are planning renovations, but are faced with budget limitations. There is a double benefit here: in addition to the fact that the material is publicly available price category, its installation can be done on your own. The absence of the need for additional costs for inviting masters is also important advantage plastic panels before other types of finishing.

How to choose high-quality plastic panels?

Due to the fact that this finishing material is in great demand, it is offered for sale in a wide variety. At the same time, the assortment of stores may contain both high-quality products and products from not particularly conscientious manufacturers. Just looking at plastic panels with the naked eye, it is quite difficult to determine their quality, so when choosing this material it is recommended to follow some tips. They will allow you to choose a material that will correspond to the declared characteristics and service life.

Material used for manufacturing finishing panels, must contain additives that improve the elasticity of products. Thanks to them, the panels bend relatively easily and are quite difficult to accidentally damage by careless movement. If the plastic is fragile and loses its strength and shape when pressed or with a slight impact, then these are low-quality panels. They will not last long, and the finished walls will quickly lose their respectable appearance during use.

— Try pressing on the edge of the panel with two fingers. Internal stiffeners should not bend or deform, and visible dents on the surface are unacceptable.

A high-quality panel, when compressed with your fingers, should not be dented, and the internal stiffeners should not be deformed

— You should try to bend the mounting strip of plastic located along the edge of the panel and forming a docking lock. The material is not something that should not break off - in quality panels this strip should return to its original state, without leaving a mark along the bend line.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

— It is necessary to inspect the outer plane of the panel very carefully. Through upper layer The plastic should not be visible or the internal stiffeners should protrude, that is, the surface should be smooth and uniform.

Plastic should not emit unpleasant chemical odors. If they are present, then it is better to discard such panels immediately. Surely the manufacturer, in order to minimize the cost of production, used low-quality raw materials or violated the established production technology. During operation, such finishing will emit fumes that are harmful to the health of the residents of the apartment or house. Such panels, without any doubt, should be classified as low-quality products.
PVC panels are produced in various widths. For small room For a toilet, it is not profitable to purchase panels that are too wide, as a lot of waste will remain. However, a lot depends on the specific dimensions of both the panels themselves and the toilet, the need to install a decorative box to hide communications, and other specific conditions. If the owner has spatial imagination, then he will be able to imagine in advance what width of the panels will be optimal.

When choosing a finishing material, it is recommended to without any hesitation request from the seller a certificate that indicates the manufacturer and indicates the compliance of the panels with all technical, sanitary and fire safety standards. If the personnel of the retail outlet cannot or refuses to provide certification documentation for the products sold, then the right decision will contact another hardware store.

Preparation for finishing work

In order for the work on finishing the toilet room to be successful, it is necessary to carefully prepare for it. Before the installation itself, you will need to take measurements and purchase necessary materials, prepare necessary tools, perform some measures to treat wall surfaces.

Taking measurements and purchasing materials

The first step is to take measurements of the room. The goal is to determine the area of surfaces to be finished and the amount of finishing material. It is very important to immediately calculate the number of fitting profiles that will be required:

— for the design of internal and external corners;

— for finishing the junctions of plastic lining to the flow line and floor;

- for installation of cabinets, doors, inspection windows - if this is intended in the finishing plan.

The choice of these profile elements will depend on the design concept, the size of the room, as well as the technique for installing the panels in certain areas.

It is recommended to purchase 15% more of the finishing material itself, that is, plastic panels, than the area measurements showed - some will definitely go into scraps, and in addition, the possibility of accidental damage or an incorrect cut cannot be ruled out, especially if there is insufficient experience in carrying out such work.

You will need material for installing the sheathing. Since the toilet usually has a small area, the owners have to save every centimeter. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a metal profile or wooden slats for the frame with a cross-sectional size of 20 × 50 mm. The number of slats can be easily calculated locally, based on the height and width of the walls, keeping in mind that the guide battens should be positioned in increments of 500÷600 mm. In addition, the sheathing elements for the decorative box hiding the pipes (if it is planned), as well as for the ceiling frame (if paneling is planned there too), are calculated separately.

To fix the beam on the wall, you will need dowels with such a length that they enter the wall 50÷60 mm. Their number is also determined by the step with which the guide battens will be fixed with their help. Usually it is 450÷500 mm.

To secure the plastic panels to the frame, you need to prepare self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long (depending on the type of sheathing - wood or metal). When installing panels on wooden slats, a construction stapler with 10÷12 mm staples is often used.
In the case where the walls are perfectly smooth (which is extremely rare even in panel houses), you can save space and do without lathing at all. In such conditions, panels can be glued directly to the surface of the walls. For such installation, glue such as “liquid nails” or even one of the tile adhesives is used.
If wooden sheathing is used, then it would be useful to purchase a product for pre-treatment structural parts, which will protect them from rotting.
You will need a primer for the ceiling and walls of the toilet. It will increase the strength of the finished surfaces and reduce the likelihood of mold colonies or insect nests appearing in the closed space between the main wall (ceiling) and the finishing material.

Tools for installation work

To carry out preparatory and finishing works You will need to prepare a certain set of tools.

with a set of bits.
A hammer drill or electric drill with a perforation function.
Drills for wood and concrete of different diameters.
Electric or manual jigsaw.
Metal scissors, if a metal profile will be used in the design.
Hammer.
Construction (stationery) knife.
Tape measure and construction square.
Pencil and marker for marking.
Construction stapler.
Building level with vertical and horizontal indicator.
To prepare wall surfaces, you may need spatulas, a hair dryer, a roller and a brush for applying primer.

When everything necessary for work is ready, you can proceed to preparing the room for the installation process.

Preparing room surfaces for finishing

Preparing the surfaces of the toilet room for finishing with plastic panels is as follows:

To prevent the creation of a favorable environment for the appearance of insects and mold stains under the finishing material, in an enclosed space, it is recommended (if any) to remove peeling paint. A metal spatula is used for cleaning.

If it is necessary to free the walls from wallpaper, and they are securely fixed to the surface, then it is recommended to apply it to them using a roller. warm water, and this needs to be done several times. In those areas where the wallpaper begins to warp from moisture, you can begin removing it.

It is not necessary to completely remove the paint; the main thing is to remove it in those areas where it has peeled off from the wall surface.
Next, the cleaned walls are marked and at the same time the number and height or length of the sheathing slats are determined. Here it is necessary to clarify that if the lining panels are planned to be installed vertically, then the timber under it is fixed horizontally at a distance of 600 mm from each other. In the case of horizontal installation of the finishing material, the frame guides are fixed vertically to the wall. Be sure to install the sheathing parts at the bottom of the wall, 20–30 mm from the floor and along the top of the wall along the line of fastening the sheathing under the ceiling sheathing or at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

If the sheathing will be mounted from wood, then the next step is to prepare the frame slats. They are cut to size and then processed, and all surfaces need to be processed, including the end sides, that is, the cuts. After applying the composition, they must be left until completely dry. This work is best done on the balcony, where there is access to air, and the space is slightly larger than the area of the toilet.

Bye wooden elements frame will dry on the balcony, you can do antiseptic treatment of the walls and ceiling of the toilet. Priming is done using a roller with a fluffy attachment or a wide brush. IN hard to reach places A narrower brush may be required.

The primer is absorbed and dries quickly enough, within a few hours, so there will be enough time to apply two layers of this composition and wait for them to dry completely to guarantee.

Primer prices

primer

The primer can be transparent or opaque. If a thick white composition is chosen, then marking the walls should be done after the treated surfaces have dried.
If during the renovation it is planned to replace the toilet, then it is more advisable to dismantle the old one before fixing the sheathing.

Wall cladding with plastic panels

When the site for further installation is completely ready, and the marking lines are clearly visible on it, you can proceed first to fastening the sheathing, and then to the finishing material itself.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is always to attach the guides to flat sections of the walls, and only after that are vertical and horizontal frames built around the areas where communications pass, as well as protruding corners. In the slats (beams), at a distance of 500÷600 mm from each other, using an electric drill and a wood drill, holes are drilled through which the frame elements will be fixed to the wall. The holes must have a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the dowel.
	Next, the beam with the holes is applied to the line marked on the wall, and through the hole located approximately in the middle of the guide (along the length), a drill with a concrete drill is used to mark the attachment point. Then the beam is removed, and the hole is deepened to the length of the dowel.
	After this, the beam is placed back against the wall and a dowel with a screw installed in it is driven through it into the hole in the wall. First, only one fastener is driven in so that the beam can be leveled.
	Next, the timber is leveled to the building level and the remaining points of attachment to the wall are outlined, the corresponding holes are drilled, and dowels are driven into them. Similarly, on flat areas of the wall, all load-bearing elements battens.
	If, when marking, distortions are found on the surface of the wall, then the sheathing is leveled using additional pads installed between the beam and the wall.
	Quite often in the layout of old houses in the bathrooms there is a window in the upper part of the wall for natural light. If you do not plan to use this opening as a niche-shelf, then the framing parts (platbands) are removed from it, and frame guides can be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
	This illustration clearly shows how the guide battens should be secured to the smooth walls of this small room.
	Probably, in order not to disrupt the demonstration of the sequence of work, we should briefly consider the dismantling and installation of ceramic floor tiles. So, after fixing the sheathing elements, the old covering is removed from the floor. To do this, you can use a hammer drill with a specific attachment in the form of a chisel. Along with the tiles, the mortar on which it was laid is also removed. After removing construction debris from the floor, the surface must be cleaned as much as possible of various protrusions. If necessary, the floor is leveled with a self-leveling compound.
	The next step is to build a sheathing for a decorative box around the vertically running sewer riser, as well as the sewer pipe running along the back wall of the toilet. This frame element can be made in different ways. In the illustration shown, it is made of short lengths of timber, joined at right angles, and fixed to straight sections of sheathing walls.
	The frame of the decorative box can also be constructed from a metal profile. Vertical posts are installed and rigidly fastened together horizontal jumpers. The design is derived from the shape of a communication unit, consisting of a sewer and water riser.
	The jumpers are made from the same metal profile, fixed from the inside of the frame. The frame of the box is mounted and screwed to a beam fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.
	This version of the box frame, built from vertical beam, which is fastened together by horizontal jumpers and connected to the sheathing fixed to the wall, is a more rigid and reliable structure. In addition, it will be more comfortable to attach finishing material to wooden guides.
	This version of the box is especially convenient if pipes also run along the side wall, and meters for hot and cold water are installed in them. The horizontal sheathing is connected to the beam on the wall and the frame of the vertical box using self-tapping screws, and, if necessary, for greater rigidity, also using metal corners.
	Another option for the design of a box made of a metal profile and timber. IN in this case, timber is a material that imparts rigidity to the frame, and the metal profile is more plastic than wood. You can cut it and construct a more compact box from it by slightly cutting off the corner. This is especially true when connections at angles other than straight are required.
	The illustration shows what this version of a box frame looks like without finishing with decorative panels. This design is well suited for cladding in which a corner fitting will not be used - the panel will smoothly bend horizontally installed elements metal sheathing.
	A horizontal box frame structure along the back wall of the room, above the sewer pipe, is best done together with the entire sheathing. However, some craftsmen work according to their own installation system and prefer to install it after the finishing material has already been attached to the main frame.
	This frame is made of wooden beams, necessarily treated with antiseptic impregnation. The front vertical side of this frame is the frame onto which the decorative trim will be attached.
	Another version of the frame, which is made of a metal profile. It can be called more acceptable in this case, since the structure will be located near pipes and plumbing fixtures, on which condensation moisture may appear due to temperature changes. However, it should be remembered that it is more convenient to mount the panels on wooden blocks, so wooden slats are often screwed on top of the metal.
	When the floor area is prepared and limited by the horizontal and the base of the vertical frame, you can proceed to tiling the surface. The first step is to try on the central row of tiles - it should be placed strictly in the center of the room, at the same distance from the walls.
	Using a marker, guide lines are drawn along the edges of the laid tiles, along which the finishing material will be laid.
	Next, according to the markings made, the tiles are laid on tile adhesive. To maintain a uniform seam width, special plastic calibration crosses are used.
	When laying a tile covering, its surface must be constantly controlled with a building level so that it remains in a horizontal plane. The illustration shows a finished, tiled floor surface with the tile joints already grouted. The floor is finished - you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels.
	Now, before installation begins, the panels are adjusted in length and width, according to the location of the middle border and its pattern (if there is one).
	It is more difficult to match panels with single fragments of a pattern, parts of which are located on different panels and, when joined, are assembled into a whole element. To make the decoration look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to accurately combine floral or geometric patterns, as well as border lines.
	Installation of the trim on the sheathing can be carried out using fitting corner profiles or without their use. Starting guides are required in any case, since without them general form the finishing will look sloppy. The plastic profiles are secured to the sheathing beam using staplers. Fixation is carried out in increments of 150÷200 mm.
	Profiles are produced only in white, so they are not suitable for all colors of finishing materials, and that is why some craftsmen prefer to do without them in some cases. This photo shows an option for joining two panels in the corner of the room, which fit perfectly to each other without the use of corners.
	If the decision is made to abandon the corner profiles, then the first panel, which is installed on the frame sheathing of the box, is first fixed with “liquid nails” and then screwed with 15÷20 mm self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	The installation of panels begins from the corner of the room, and the verticality of the first panel in the row, before its final fastening, is carefully verified to the building level. Therefore, first the self-tapping screw is screwed into the sheathing beam in the middle part of the panel height, and the edge is adjusted to the level. Well, then the panel is finally fixed to the remaining elements of the sheathing. The evenness and neatness of the entire wall cladding will depend on the correct installation of the first panel. If the panels are installed unevenly, then the existing pattern on their surfaces may not match.
	If one of the walls has completely flat surface, and the panels will be installed on it without lathing, then they can be glued using “liquid nails” or with cement-based tile adhesive.
	“Liquid” nails are applied to the wall in strips 10÷15 mm thick. If tile adhesive is used, it is spread with a notched trowel with a ridge height of 5 mm over the entire surface under the panel.
	If a whole panel falls at the junction of sheathing areas that make up different planes, then it is first joined to a previously fixed panel without fixation, and then the cut line is measured in place. This process needs to be done in this way because the outer corner may not be even enough. It happens that after cutting out the excess part of the panel exactly along the measured lines (without real adjustment “in place”, focusing solely on the results of linear measurements), its edge in one place may coincide with the corner protrusion, but not in another, so it will be damaged. After cutting out the excess fragment, the panel is fixed to the sheathing.
	The outer corner can be closed with a regular corner, which is glued to “liquid nails”. Another option is to disguise it with the so-called outer corner molding, which has special grooves. on their internal surfaces Glue is applied, and then the edges of the joining panels are inserted into the grooves.
	Pipes located on the side walls are covered with short sections of panels. Often craftsmen prefer to close them with sliding doors, which will be discussed later.
	If water meters are installed on one of the side walls, then they cannot be closed completely, so the craftsmen resort to two options - either a small window with an opening door, or sliding panels. The second method is more practical, as it allows you to control the entire space, and if any emergency situation, it can be eliminated without disassembling the entire structure.
	Sliding doors (there can be two or more of them) are made from ordinary panels. They are installed in profiles fixed along the top and bottom of the opening with two or three guide channels (grooves). The type of profile, of course, will depend on the number of doors, since each of them must have its own space for free movement.
	To make it easier to move such doors, ordinary internal plastic door handles are installed in them, which are carefully glued into the cut hole.
	The decorative box located behind the toilet, along the back wall, also needs to be covered with plastic lining panels of the required length. To keep the trim looking neat, starter molding is glued to the bottom timber of the front frame and then stapled and stapled into place.
	The next step is to cut out the cover for this box from the panel, try it on, determine the location of the outlet of the water connection hose to the drain tank, and cut a hole for it. Then “liquid” nails are applied to the beam, and the top panel of the decorative box is glued. In this case, it must first be installed and “packed” flexible liner(hose) for the drain tank, and thread it through the hole in the lid.
	Next, the necessary fragments are cut out of the panels for lining the front side of the box. This part is assembled into a single piece, tried on in place, and then a hole is marked on it for the outlet of the sewer pipe for connection to the toilet. After this, a cut is made in the middle of one or along the edges of two panels. In addition, the window is marked, which allows monitoring the condition of the pipes passing inside the box. The protruding edge of the lock is cut off from the extreme left or right panel so that it fits closely with the main wall decoration.
	The next step is to install the panels into the starting bottom strip and screw them to the wooden elements of the box. The junction of the horizontal and vertical panels is covered with a decorative corner, which is glued to “liquid” nails. After this, the finished frame with the door is glued into the hole.
	Separately, it is necessary to say about the design of a vertical box using a wide 500 mm panel, since in this case there will be no need for auxiliary corners, and the design will look elegant. In order to see the necessary cutouts in the panel, which are made on its reverse side, this illustration, as an example, shows a small section of it installed on the posts of the metal frame of the box.
	In order for this finishing option to look neat, exact dimensions are taken from the sides of the box, that is, their width is measured. These parameters are then transferred to the back of the panel. The marking points will be the middle of the cut strip. 15 mm are measured from the marked points in both directions, that is, the distance for bending should be three channels between the ribs located inside the panel.
	After marking, lines are drawn along the entire length of the panel along which cuts are made using a utility knife. Only the back side of the panel is cut, while the front side remains intact. After this, the cut strip is completely removed along with the ribs, leaving 3÷4 mm of ribs on the back side of the front panel. This work is not very convenient to carry out, but it must be done very carefully without damaging the front surface of the panel.
	Once these cuts are made, the panel will easily bend along the intended lines. After attaching it to the frame of the box, you will get a neat finish without joints or corners.
	Moreover, in this option, all the corners of the box will be rounded, which will also add elegance to the interior design, especially if high-quality panels are chosen.
	One more point that also needs to be clarified. If a shelf is mounted near the vertical box shown above, installed on top of the masking pipe of the rear box-shaped structure, then in order for the cut to be made accurately, first an exact pattern of smooth corner rotation is adjusted from paper. Then the template is laid on the panel from which the box lid will be cut, outlined, after which the necessary cutout is made along this line.
	Next, it is necessary to briefly consider the installation of the frame and the arrangement of the ceiling cladding with decorative panels. This work can be carried out during the installation of the main wall frame, or after covering the surface of the walls with plastic panels. The lathing can be attached directly to the main ceiling or to the walls in the form of a frame. In the latter case, the timber attached to the walls will become the basis of the suspended ceiling.
	The beam is mounted in the same way as the sheathing elements for wall cladding. It is fixed by top line decorative finishing walls
	In a toilet room, common in city apartments, a similar design may look like the one shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to apply glue and “liquid” nails to the lower part of the beam, onto which the starting profile is glued, into which the sheathing panels will be installed. The starting profile is attached to three walls of the room - on the side walls and on the one from which the installation of panels will begin. This can be either the back wall or the one in which the front door is located.
	The glued profile is additionally fixed to the beam using a stapler and staples, which are installed at a distance of 150÷200 mm from each other.
	Once the frame for the ceiling is ready, you can begin preparing and installing the ceiling panels. First, they are marked and cut into the required size.
	The edge of the first panel (mounting tenon) is cut off so that the panel fits tightly, throughout its entire thickness, into the starting profile. The panel is installed with its ends in the side profiles, and the side with the cut tenon - in the one that is fixed to the rear (or front) wall.
	The installed panel is screwed to the sheathing bars using self-tapping screws with wide heads.
	You need to immediately decide on the location of the recessed lamps, since it is much more convenient to install them at a time when the ceiling is not yet completely covered with cladding.
	To make holes in the ceiling lining for installation spotlights, a core drill is used, having a diameter corresponding to the size of their stem. For a small toilet room, one or two lamps will be enough. If its area is large enough, then three or four lighting elements are installed.
	Before installing the lamps in the sockets cut out in the panels, the power cables are connected to them.
	Lighting fixtures are installed in holes plastic trim, and then assembled into a single chain. Connection to the power supply should be made only after complete installation of all finishing.
	The problem is always installing the last panel in the finish. Each master chooses his own method of installation. In this case, it is proposed to make it slightly wider than the remaining distance - 10÷15 mm. Then, a starting profile is put on the edge, which will be fixed to the frame beam. Liquid nails glue is applied to the timber. After this, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous cladding element, and its ends into the grooves of the side starting profiles. Well, the molding, put on its cut edge, is glued to a strip of “liquid nails” applied to the frame beam.
	Further, the lamps can be connected to a common electrical system apartments. The process of installing lighting elements and connecting them to the power supply, if you do not have sufficient experience in electrical work, is best entrusted to an experienced specialist.
	If we are talking about a toilet, then a few words need to be said about installing and attaching the toilet to the floor. First of all, this accessory is installed flush against the back wall or to a box mounted along it. In addition, during preliminary fitting, you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe is opposite the toilet outlet pipe.
	Next, use a marker to mark the exact location of the toilet on the tile, as well as the points for drilling holes to secure it.
	The next step is to temporarily remove the toilet to the side, and drill holes according to the marks to secure it. The depth of the holes must be at least 60÷70 mm, and their diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel that comes with the toilet.
	Next, plastic dowel plugs are driven into the holes in the floor. The toilet is being installed. The holes in its leg should line up with the holes in the floor. Often at this same stage it is necessary to immediately connect the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer pipe. Then, mounting screws with silicone gaskets are installed in the aligned holes, which will separate the ceramics from the metal. If you do not install gaskets, the toilet leg may crack when tightening the screws.
	It is also impossible to overtighten the mounting screws, as this will create tension in the material, and it may eventually crack or even chip. After tightening the fasteners, the caps of the fastening elements are closed with special masking caps, which are usually included in the kit supplied by the manufacturer to the toilet.
	After fixing and connecting the toilet to the sewer pipe, assembling the flush cistern and connecting the flexible supply line from the water supply to it, it is recommended to carefully fill the gap between the leg and the floor lining with sealant.

Installing a toilet is not an easy task

In the table above short description installation of the toilet was given only to demonstrate the final stage of finishing the toilet. In reality, everything can be somewhat more complicated. Detailed information on how to independently comply with all the rules can be obtained from the corresponding publication on our portal.

Plastic ceiling for a toilet or bathroom - the optimal solution

This article also spoke only briefly about the ceiling. This is because detailed information about it is posted in another portal article specifically dedicated to this issue.

For those who have carefully read this publication, we hope it has become clear that finishing the toilet plastic lining- it’s not that difficult, so it’s quite possible to do it on your own, saving some money. The main thing is to take your time and always stick to folk wisdom"Seven times measure cut once". As a result, a “boring” toilet can turn into a cozy, visually beautiful, easy-to-clean room, as, for example, shown in the proposed video.

Video: how plastic panels can transform a standard toilet room in an apartment

Water pipes and the sewer riser, although they are necessary communications, do not add aesthetics to the room. The question of how to sew up toilet pipes with plastic panels is relevant for apartment owners. If you want to successfully cope with this task on your own, you just need to follow a number of recommendations described below.

Wise choice of materials

The main criterion for choosing finishing materials that allow you to disguise communications in the house is their environmental safety, resistance to corrosion and ease of installation.

Among modern finishing materials for masking pipes, the following are most often used:

plastic panels;
moisture-resistant plywood;
MDF panels;
moisture resistant drywall.

Not least important are the decorative properties of the material, which ensure a harmonious combination of the cladding with overall design rooms

Deciding to hide the pipes in the bathroom with plastic panels can not only simplify the installation process, but also facilitate subsequent care of the casing and its quick dismantling if necessary.

Define required amount plastic panels, connecting strips and corners will be helped by an installation plan. To do this, armed with a tape measure, they measure the niche taking into account the location of the pipes, choosing for themselves best option designs. When calculating the total number of panels, about 20% is added to the calculated value for cuts.

To cover pipes in a toilet with plastic panels, you need to prepare:

plastic panels;
starting profile and guide profiles for the frame;
fastening elements (dowel-nails, self-tapping screws, screws);
building level;
hacksaw for metal;
mounting knife;
screwdriver and screwdriver;
hammer drill

At this stage, access to valves and water meters should be provided in order to install small doors in these places during the installation process.

The size of the opening should be such that it is convenient to carry out plumbing work

Technology of installation of plastic panels

Regardless of the choice of finishing material, before starting work, it is necessary to check the pipes for defects: examine the connections for leaks, check the functionality of the transition elements.

Preparing the supporting frame

Having completed a sketch with precise indications of the attachment points of the frame elements, proceed to the installation of the structure. There are two ways to seal the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels:

partial closure - hide only communications;
“blind” concealment – arrangement of a false wall, the plane of which is aligned with the surface of the base wall, hiding behind itself traces of the presence of communications.

By selecting the best way closing the niche, first of all, mark the attachment points of the guide profiles. Fitting aluminum profiles can be done using a hacksaw.

Having attached the guide profiles to the markings, fix them by drilling holes every 30-40 cm and inserting dowel nails into them.

The UD profile should be fixed as tightly as possible, without gaps or voids

If desired, the metal profile frame can be replaced with wooden planks using panel brackets as fastening elements. But in this case, in order to extend the service life of the structure, the wooden elements should first be treated with moisture-repellent impregnations. And even after processing the slats wooden frame They can expand due to moisture; cuts in the beams will help prevent the formation of cracks.

Important: when deciding to hide communications in the bathroom, it is worth considering that access to the ventilation window must remain open. This can be done by installing decorative ventilation grilles.

After lathing the frame, it is advisable to treat the walls to be covered with a primer that has moisture-repellent properties. Experts recommend using for this purpose compositions with antibacterial substances that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.

The sound of water flowing through sewer risers often causes concern to owners. Sound insulation will help solve this problem. To save money, experienced builders recommend using cardboard trays for storing eggs, which have the property of excellent noise retention.

Sheathing panels are applied to the guide profiles and secured using flea screws

Sheathing with plastic panels

When the skeleton of the structure is assembled, you can begin covering the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels. Having installed the corners and end switches on the profiles, the installation of the panels begins with them. This approach allows you to prevent possible distortions and unevenness. The protective film from PVC sheets can be removed after installing the panels.

Installation of plastic panels can be done by simply gluing them to the sheathing. But for this you can only use special “liquid nails”, which do not contain a solvent that can damage the plastic surface. It is applied pointwise at the corners of the frame and on the slats every 20-30 cm.

Tip: to obtain the required dimensions of the elements, the panels can be carefully cut with the same hacksaw for metal. But when cutting sheets, be sure to wear safety glasses.

Subsequent panels are inserted into each other as tightly as possible, with the comb facing the direction of movement, and fixed to the profiles. When joining panels, each comb must fit completely into the groove.

Video advice on installing a plastic box for pipes in the bathroom

Plastic panels – good choice for finishing water and sewer pipes. By choosing this cladding method, you can achieve the desired aesthetic effect without compromising the performance of the system.

Hidden pipes in the toilet - a necessity or a tribute to construction fashion?

It is impossible to give a definite answer. On the one hand, the absence of open pipelines means a more aesthetic appearance of the room, increased noise insulation and, finally, a higher degree of hygiene. On the other hand, it is difficult to access to take readings from water meters or conduct repair work.

Modern technologies help formulate the following answer: “Hidden pipes are a necessary tribute to construction fashion.”

There is a very common opinion that it makes no sense to “mask” the pipelines in the toilet until the pipes are completely replaced with plastic or metal-plastic. However, this is not quite true. Firstly, hidden pipelines will significantly improve the visual perception of the room.

Secondly, they will greatly facilitate the process of cleaning the toilet, especially major ones. And thirdly, the use of components such as plastic, the role of shutters or blinds, will allow you to very quickly dismantle the shelter structure or simply provide unhindered access to the pipes.

Existing plumbing and sewerage products made of plastic theoretically allow them to be buried forever in the thickness of the walls. But this option is suitable for linear sections of water-carrying communications.

Access to water metering units, shut-off valves and inspections is required. And preferably comfortable. The ergonomics of such access equally depend on both the plumbers and the installers hiding the pipes.

The designs of systems for concealing pipelines in the toilet can be divided into four subgroups:

Frame. These include structures assembled on a frame made of metal, or wooden slats and timber. Further cladding is done with gypsum plasterboard, PVC panels or DSP boards.
Mounted. They are made-to-measure roller shutters or horizontal blinds, fixed to the ceiling.
Combined. In this case, part of the protection is assembled on a frame, and part is a lifting system in the form of roller shutters or blinds.
Finished design. Typically this is a one-piece array mounted in an assembly. A typical example is a metal-plastic frame with a window for access to the water metering unit. Filling – sandwich panel.

Frame types of pipe covers differ in the shape of the assembly and types of finishing.

Forms of installation of frame systems for “masking” pipelines

Solid partition. It is a partition assembled along the far or side walls of the toilet room. Distinctive feature such a false panel from a regular partition - the presence of frame cladding only on the visible part. An undoubted advantage of this design will be the possibility of finishing the entire toilet with the same type - plastic panels, ceramic tiles, washable wallpaper, fiberboard panels, etc. The disadvantages are the impossibility of carrying out plumbing work behind a false wall and a fairly significant reduction in the total area of the toilet. Basically, the footage is compressed due to the poor location of pipelines, mainly sewer risers. As a result, you have to change the location of the toilet - move it to the front door or move it to the side.
Corner partition. The principle of constructing an oblique false wall is the same as that of a solid partition. Only it covers not the wall, but the junction of the walls of the room. Behind the corner structure it is convenient to place pipelines located in the corner. The ideal option is when the back of the frame touches the pipes furthest from the walls of the toilet room. However, if the sewer riser and water supply are installed at some distance from the corner of the toilet, then a slanting false wall can take up an unreasonably large amount of space. In addition, unequal sized internal corners can significantly complicate interior decoration toilet room. This can be especially true when covering walls with PVC panels.
Rectangular boxes. They are used to “camouflage” both vertical risers and horizontal sections of pipelines. The frame is installed close to existing pipes. Unlike false walls, which cover a wall or corner completely, boxes cover only segments of the wall space. Wired in this way horizontal sections can be used as shelves. Sewing supply risers may cause some difficulties hot water with heated towel rails. This is due to the peculiarities of a possible replacement of the heating device.
Multi-level boxes. This is a kind of symbiosis of walls, false panels and boxes. The boxes perform the function of “protecting” pipelines. They are mounted close to the pipes, and at the same time as far as possible from the plane of the walls. The design in rectangular reflection repeats the relief of the indentation of pipelines from walls or false panels. Such stepped boxes save as much as possible usable area. An interesting option is to create multi-level structures with niches. The back side of the recess serves as existing walls, the protruding plane is the outer part of the boxes. But such systems are relevant for rather large toilet rooms. The frame cladding material is plastic or plasterboard.

Hanging pipeline concealment systems

Blinds. This “disguise” is rather decorative in nature. But it will absolutely not interfere with repair work. The installation location is often limited to the back wall of the toilet room. If the pipes are located sideways relative to the entrance, installing blinds simply does not make sense. Cross plates made of aluminum are preferable to plastic slats. Standard powder coating colors allow you to visually connect the blinds with the wall finishing materials of the toilet room without any jarring transitions.
Roller shutters. Roller blinds fit quite organically into the interior of the toilet room. Made to order only. There are no standard sizes. Individual roller shutters usually cover the back wall of the toilet. When installing from the side, you cannot do without boxes assembled from plasterboard. In this case, the issue of installing an inspection hatch disappears. If the size of the installed roller blinds corresponds to the dimensions of the linear projection of the pipelines, then no problems are expected during plumbing work.

Soundproofing of pipelines behind boxes

This event is relevant only for multi-apartment high-rise buildings. The noise of a “waterfall” coming from behind decorative boxes and false panels in the toilet rarely brings joyful feelings. Sewer risers especially create such discomfort.

This will help solve this problem mineral wool. Moreover, it is not the plane of the partition that needs to be insulated, but the pipelines. The noise from pipes wrapped in glass wool becomes an order of magnitude lower.

Installation of box frames and false walls

Metal carcass. It is manufactured at the installation site from metal profile pipes by welding. The main frame is attached to the walls, floor and ceiling with anchors. The metal thickness is no more than 1.5 mm, which makes it possible to fasten the casing with ordinary self-tapping screws and a drill. Facing material – CBPB slabs. This powerful design is designed for hanging and holding heavy pieces of furniture or equipment. Typical examples are a cabinet for storing canned food for the winter or an electric water heater with a capacity of 100 liters or more. The complexity of installation work and the cost of materials make such a frame a rather expensive structure.
Frame made of CD and UD profiles for plasterboard systems. The very name of the materials for the manufacture of the structure says that it is intended for gypsum boards. But, in addition to plasterboard sheets for cladding, you can use PVC panels. For drywall, the usual installation scheme is used - a mesh with a cell size of 600 by 600 mm. But plastic will require horizontal fastening of CD strips every 500 mm. GKL is fastened with metal screws, plastic with a press washer. The biggest advantage of this design is the speed and accuracy of installation.
Frame made of wooden beams and slats. Most economical option frame "camouflage". PVC panels, plasterboard, fiberboard, and OSB boards can be used as cladding materials. But the cheapest is almost always not the best. A structure assembled from wood in rooms with high humidity is very susceptible to deformation. Therefore, further tiling cannot be carried out. And other materials on curved stands will lose all attractiveness.

Materials for lining pipeline covering systems

Construction components for cladding frames are divided into two categories:

Materials suitable for use immediately after installation work. These include:
- PVC panels. Lightweight and beautiful material, which has proven itself in finishing rooms with high humidity. Seamless versions of plastic panels create the impression of solidity of the assembled planes. Plastic is very easy to process. A wide range of colors and varied textures of products can satisfy the most picky tastes. The disadvantage is excessive fragility.
- Chipboard boards. This furniture component gives a certain coziness to the toilet room. Especially if the finishing of the box is made in the same style as front door. In addition, laminated particle boards can be mounted as part of a wall cabinet with opening or sliding doors. It is quite appropriate to use mirrors. The downside will be the high cost of the project.
- Wooden lining. Wood is always in fashion. But to combine harmoniously wooden parts with tiles or plastic it is very difficult. But completely covering the toilet room with clapboard may not allow the space of the room.
Sheet materials are the basis for future finishing.
- DSP boards. Reliable, but very heavy material, even if you use sheets 8 mm thick. Cut to size using an angle grinder. Absolutely not afraid of water. Particular difficulties may arise when installing an inspection hatch.
- Plasterboard sheets. For covering the shelter frames, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant wall gypsum boards with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Drywall has proven itself well in the construction market. Very easy to process. Does not lose its properties under various finishing materials– primers, putties, decorative plasters and ceramic tiles. The main disadvantage is that it loses its structure when exposed to water. Well, cases of flooding of bathrooms in multi-storey buildings are well known.

Finishing of boxes

There are several final design options finishing touches in the process of covering the pipes in the toilet. Here are the most common ones:

Ceramic tile. An old and yet modern way of finishing fragments of toilet rooms. The solid “experience” of tiles is the best argument in favor of ceramics. The advantages are visible to the naked eye - ergonomics, durability, aesthetics, etc. and so on. In the case of boxes, there is only one technical difficulty - the installation of an inspection hatch, which would look organic and would be functionally convenient.
Textured plaster. The embossed surface of such a decorative coating may require more frequent and careful maintenance of the false panels. But there is also a big plus - plaster has no linear dimensions and quite easily hides minor installation errors.

Use as a screen to “mask” the remains of cabinet furniture. Any used chipboard (wall wardrobe, countertop) will fulfill the same role as custom-made ones.
Fastening temporary false walls can be done on a regular polyurethane foam. The false panels do not carry any special loads, so the main thing is to fix them while the foam hardens.
The role of an inspection door can be successfully performed by a removable ventilation grille.

Many owners of apartments or private houses are faced with the question of how to close the sewer pipe in the toilet. It looks too technologically advanced and spoils the decoration of the room. There are not too many options for solving the problem.

Most often, a decorative box is installed. It is finished in the same style as the toilet and hides the pipes. It is important to remember that at some point you may need to access the wiring or riser. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the ability to quickly dismantle the box. Let's consider this issue in more detail.

Masking materials

Before you hide the sewer pipe in the toilet, you need to choose a suitable method of disguise. The materials used for this must meet the following requirements:

environmental cleanliness and harmlessness. The room is small, the concentration of unwanted secretions increases very quickly;
resistance to moisture, no corrosion or other reaction;
Compact, light weight design.

The following materials best meet these requirements:

plastic panels;
MDF;
plywood;
drywall.

All sheet materials must be moisture resistant. The design of the sewer riser must maintain its appearance for a long time.

When choosing how to seal a sewer pipe in a toilet, you need to remember the need to repair or clean the pipes. It is not recommended to seal the wiring tightly, so that later you do not have to urgently break everything. If the need arises, the structure is dismantled in a predetermined manner. After completion of the work, the box is put in place without re-closing the pipes with new materials. How can you seal a sewer pipe in a toilet? different ways, it is important to carefully analyze your options. You should not choose complex methods without special training, experience and skills. It is necessary to ensure a decorative appearance, combination with other interior elements. Most often, the manufacture of the box is combined with general finishing in order to obtain the same design for all surfaces.

Ideally, the box should completely cover the pipes and blend in with the finish, without standing out from the general background. In addition, it is necessary to ensure free access to valves and water meters. To do this, install a special hatch, plastic or metal. Available for sale ready-made elements, you just need to choose the right size.

Hidden pipe installation

One way to hide a sewer pipe in a toilet is to conceal the wiring and other pipelines. To do this, at the stage of installation of communications, a recess (groove) is made in the wall.

With hidden installation, it becomes possible to avoid the creation of unnecessary structures. The walls of the room remain smooth. However, there are limitations. If you have to groove a load-bearing wall, the depth of the groove should not exceed 15% of its thickness. This is a requirement of SNiP, compliance with which is mandatory for everyone.

In addition, embedding an already existing sewer riser into the wall is complex. engineering problem. If the pipeline is already installed, it will have to be shifted relative to the vertical axis. This will create difficulties in the passage of drains and may cause blockages. Therefore, when deciding how to close the sewer pipe in the toilet, you need to clarify in advance all the nuances and the possibility of using the methods. More often hidden installation used by owners of private houses, who take this point into account at the design and construction stage.

Box marking

Before closing the sewer riser in the toilet, you need to perform a series of preparatory actions. To install the structure, you need a support system - a frame. Its dimensions must be carefully calculated, taking into account the thickness of the material of the planks supporting structure and the casing itself. It is recommended to draw up a scale plan of the room, mark on it all existing pipelines and the distances from them to the walls. To do this, first take measurements using a ruler or tape measure.

When drawing up a drawing of the frame, you must immediately mark on it the area where the hatch will be installed. To do this, you need to have a ready-made unit in order to know exactly its dimensions and installation features. In addition, you need a right or left element to make it convenient to open and close.

Wooden strips or metal plasterboard guides are usually used to assemble the frame. Their size must be selected so that the box is not too large. Considering the thickness of the skin and decorative tiles(if you plan to lay it), the size of the box may be too large.

Use of plastic panels

When deciding how to cover a sewer pipe, it is recommended to consider plastic panels. This is a good way to solve the issue for inexperienced people. Advantages of plastic panels:

low price. Assembly requires only 3-4 panels;
wide choice of colors, widths, patterns. You can choose the material for the finished finish;
ease of installation. The assembly of plastic panels is quick and does not require any skills. All accompanying profiles are on sale; you can design corners and junctions with walls;
the material does not create loads on supporting structures;
no reaction to moisture;
cutting and processing of panels are carried out simple tools and is not difficult.

These advantages have made the material the most popular. Low price and ease of assembly allow you to frequently change the casing, updating the appearance of the toilet. The panels are used in various cases, from installing an apron in the kitchen to covering walls. Plastic is not afraid of any impacts other than mechanical ones. However, if dents occur, the trim can be quickly and inexpensively replaced.

Drywall box

Assembling a plasterboard box is usually done for further installation tiles. The process is similar to installation plastic construction. First, the frame is assembled, then it is sheathed with sheets of plasterboard. The last stage is the finishing coating (tiles, decorative plaster, painting, etc.). It is necessary to choose moisture-resistant types of material, since it is possible to close the sewer pipe in the toilet regular drywall it is forbidden. It will absorb moisture and lose its strength, the tile or plaster will peel off.

We must remember that quick dismantling of the box is impossible in this case, so you must first put all the pipes in order.

Other methods of disguise

When deciding how to close a sewer pipe, you do not have to limit yourself to well-known methods. You can hide pipelines under different designs. Some users install roller shutters that provide access to pipes without dismantling the entire structure. Others install a plywood box and cover it with mosaics. There are craftsmen who install a semicircular case with textured plaster, mosaic tiles or other types of finishing. It is important to avoid over-decorating or framing the design. The box should not stand out or look like an alien element.

Open water and sewer pipes in the bathroom and toilet give the room an unkempt and uncomfortable appearance. Let's find out how to close the pipes in the toilet, so that in case of an accident you don't have to spoil the design of the room when trying to open free access to communications; the better to disguise the valves and pipes in order to get beautiful interior, which will not be disrupted if the system is repaired.

Universal drywall

Moisture-resistant drywall is the best option for solving these problems. Structures covered with plasterboard are instantly dismantled, allowing pipes to be replaced without much difficulty. Repairing damaged partitions will not take much time and will not require a lot of money.

And if you close the pipes in the toilet behind a camouflage box equipped with a door, then access to the damage will be unhindered. The box is made on two levels: one is constructed so as to completely cover the sewer pipe (riser), the second is designed to cover valves, pipes and meters located below.

Advantages of the material:

moisture resistance,
price,
ease and simplicity of installation,
convenience in finishing,
availability of decoration with any materials.

Installation of a box in a bathroom requires the following tools and materials:

rack and ceiling metal profiles;
press washers, dowels, screws;
moisture-resistant drywall;
putty mixtures;
reinforced mesh;
door, preferably with a frame;
spatulas, trowels, levels, tape measure, drill (perforator), containers for diluting mixtures;
decorating materials (ceramic tiles, enamel, plastic, etc.).

Installation of a plasterboard box: step-by-step instructions

we mark the parts from which we will make the box, taking into account that the distance from the pipes to the walls of the box should be at least 5 cm;
we attach the profiles to the wall using a hammer drill and dowels;
Using a level, we mark the location of the profiles on the ceiling and floor and fasten them;
We screw the corner component with stiffening ribs to the lower and upper profiles with self-tapping screws;
Using trim from the profile, we connect it to the wall structure;
during the installation of horizontal beams, we construct a frame for the door;
We fasten the prepared door with the frame.

The box is ready and awaiting finishing. You can buy a kind of cabinet at a hardware store, install it and decorate it.

Aesthetic plastic

When planning to hide pipes in the toilet behind plastic panels, you should remember that their thickness should not be less than eight millimeters. Compliance with this parameter will ensure the strength of the assembly, durability and wear resistance of the material in a room with high humidity. Correct calculation the number of panels is done as follows:

measurements of the walls of the box are taken;
the amount of material is calculated and 15 percent is added (additional expense).

The advantage of the panels is a huge selection of colors, which allows you to choose the finish to match the tone of the bathroom itself.

False wall

A false wall is an easy way to hide sewer pipes. The construction method is similar to a box, but in this case a significant part of the free space is lost due to the reduction in the length of the bathroom. Good decision may be a replacement simple toilet to the hanging device. In this case, all fastening elements and the tank are removed behind the structure, while the pipes also become invisible.

The construction of a false wall can provide another advantage: many homemade shelves will fit perfectly into the gap between the pipes, and you can close them with a door that will provide easy access into the closet and to the pipes.

Plumbing roller shutters - the perfect style

If the owner of an apartment needs to disguise communication systems in the toilet, make the room more aesthetically pleasing and stylish, but at the same time provide an open approach to the pipes, then it is best to use plumbing roller shutters to perform such an operation.

The box for them is assembled under the ceiling, and the roller shutters themselves are wound onto a shaft, without taking up the space of an already small room. A regular latch will function as a lock on a device lowered to the floor.

Moisture-resistant coating on roller shutters can withstand temperature changes, and lamella profiles filled with foamed polyurethane have excellent sound insulation properties.

The color range of roller shutters is very diverse, which allows you to create a bathroom in the same style. The devices also have a mechanical or electric drive, which makes their use more convenient.

Note! Before hiding communications using roller shutters, you should know that despite the simplicity and ease of use, the installation of this structure is technologically complex, so it is advisable to entrust their installation to a specialist.

Original blinds

Plumbing blinds are no different from ordinary ones, except for the moisture-resistant coating. A variety of shades will give your bathroom an unusual look. original look. You can apply any design to them using an airbrush or film coating and cover it with a special varnish.

Blinds will not only add personality to the room, but will make it more modern. Perfectly masking sewer pipes, they will not take up additional space.

Chipboard and tiles - strength and reliability

In order to cover the riser with chipboard and tiles, you need to prepare:

particle board at least 10 mm thick;
roulette;
hacksaw;
drill with attachments;
nails;
pencil for markings;
wood scraps;
tiles or ceramics for finishing;
glue or cement mixture.

Algorithm for constructing a structure:

The length of the board should be equal to the height of the bathroom wall, and the width should be equal to the distance between the side wall and the most distant part of the pipe (+10 mm margin). All measurements are taken with a tape measure.
The front side of the pipe will be covered by a board cut to the dimensions obtained.
Using the finished board placed in place, the width of the side surface is measured, so that it is possible to fasten them with a self-tapping screw or nail. The length is the same.
After both boards are ready, they should be placed next to each other and pierced with nails (70 mm), making a corner structure.
Holes for the hose should be drilled in the main board. cistern, approximately 50x50 mm.
In the side panel you need to make a hole of such a diameter that a hand and a wrench can easily fit through it, approximately 160x130 mm. This is useful for timely cleaning ball valve, supplying water to the toilet cistern.
Next, the constructed structure should be placed at its permanent location and the area where the gutter touches the wall should be marked with a pencil.
Having removed the structure and retreated 10 mm from the mark, you need to drill 4 holes at the same distance from each other on each wall, the depth of which should be approximately 35-40 mm. The holes are made at a slight angle, then wooden plugs are driven into them.
Connect the hose to the tank through a special hole in the board.
You can install the structure by first marking the locations of the plugs on the board so that the driven nails fall into them.
After installing the chipboard gutter, you can begin tiling with tiles or ceramic tiles using a mixture of cement mortar and PVA.

Such a cabinet can be made of wood or plywood. The dimensions of the structure depend entirely on the nature and parameters of the niche in which the riser is located. The advantages of such camouflage are that there is no need to purchase additional shelves, all communications will be securely closed, but there will still be an opportunity for urgent repairs.

Note! To avoid deformation of the cabinet, it is better to use latches that will secure it. Since wood absorbs moisture very well, it is best to immediately coat such a structure with moisture-resistant varnish.

Alternative design

If the apartment owner is confident in the strength and durability of communication pipes, they can simply be decorated with mosaics or painted with iron paint.

Using any of the above methods, you can perfectly camouflage sewer pipes. All that remains is to choose the one that is suitable for your bathroom.

Photo

Video

If you want to disguise not only pipes, but also a riser, we recommend watching this video: