Toilet installation process. Do-it-yourself toilet installation: simple step-by-step instructions

Manufacturers offer a wide selection of plumbing fixtures. Each model has its own and imposes certain requirements for the installation procedure. Installing a toilet with your own hands is possible, but only if you follow the manufacturer's recommendations. We invite you to familiarize yourself with existing species, the order and features of the work, so that self-installation was carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.

In order to correctly place the key ones, you should prepare a drawing to scale on which the plumbing fixtures will be located taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards. You can create a comfortable layout by adhering to the following recommendations:

The area in front of the toilet must be at least 60 cm long;
A free space of at least 25 cm wide should be provided on the sides of the toilet;
The area in front of the sink should not be narrower than 70 cm;
The bidet and toilet should be fixed at a distance of at least 35 cm;
It should be fixed at a height of 60÷80 cm above the floor surface, and - 95 cm.

The recommendations given are relevant for those for whom it is enough to adhere to standard standards, principles of practicality and comfort. IN apartment buildings The placement of plumbing fixtures is regulated by SNiP, which are developed taking into account the safe operation of communications. When planning to do the installation yourself, you should definitely familiarize yourself with these standards.

Basics of choosing the right toilet for your home

When choosing suitable model features should be taken into account. Noteworthy:

The area of the room, which affects the dimensions of the purchased plumbing fixtures;
Availability, geometric parameters and location of external. It should be taken into account how far it will be located from the intended installation location of the toilet cistern;
Location sewer pipe;
Release angle. The best option is the installation of a model with an oblique outlet. If the measurement shows a slight coincidence, you should purchase a special adapter—a drain corrugation—along with the plumbing fixtures.

Manufacturers offer plumbing fixtures various configurations, which has its own fastening features. The division can be made into floor-mounted and wall-mounted models. To install the latter you need less space and they have more attractive appearance. This is a suitable option for. Floor-standing models are more reliable and practical.

hammer;
drill (perforator);
measuring tape;
marker for marking;
adjustable wrench or set;
pliers;
screwdriver.

It is also worth preparing:

FUM tape;
flexible hose;
corrugation;
silicone sealant with a pistol.

Removing an old toilet

When dismantling, you should follow the instructions in accordance with which the installation was previously carried out. new plumbing. Do-it-yourself toilet replacement begins with the following work:

shut off the water supply inside cistern;
drain the water inside the tank;
unscrew the tank fasteners. If there is a large thickness of lime deposits or there is rust, use a screwdriver to fix the bolt head and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench;
Having removed the barrel of the tank, unscrew the fasteners securing the product;
disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If cement coating was previously used during installation, use a chisel to chip off the cement;
Drain the remaining water from the toilet and set it aside.

Advice! After dismantling, the hole in the sewer pipe should be closed with a cloth plug to prevent it from clogging.

Preparing a new toilet for installation

Having decided to do the installation yourself, you should figure out how to assemble the toilet. Any model includes two components: a bowl and a drain tank. At the preparation stage, these parts should be connected to each other using the fasteners included in the delivery kit.

First, assemble the drain tank. To do this, a drain mechanism and a float are installed. As a rule, installing a drain mechanism does not cause difficulties, since it is initially supplied in assembled form. It is inserted into a special mounting hole at the bottom and secured with a plastic nut, onto which a rubber seal is carefully placed. The tank is secured to the toilet using metal pins and nuts.

Attention! Rubber seals should be used at all connections.

A video of assembling a toilet with your own hands will allow you to better understand the sequence of work:

How to install a regular toilet with your own hands?

After the plumbing has been assembled, it is worth clarifying how to install the toilet with your own hands. The work can be performed in the following sequence:

Photo	Description of work
	We mark and drill mounting holes in the floor.
	We remove the accumulated dirt and dust.
	We hammer plastic dowels into the prepared holes.
	We install the toilet at the place of future use and fix its spatial position with bolts.

If you haven’t yet figured out how to do the installation yourself, a toilet installation video will help you learn all the main steps:

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

Models with hidden tanks allow you to use the available space more rationally. They are easy to care for and look stylish. Installation of a built-in toilet can be done in different ways. We invite you to familiarize yourself accessible ways and features of the work.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation

First, you need to decide on the model of plumbing fixtures. Its geometric parameters will affect the requirements for the mounted system. Installation of the pendant can be performed in the following sequence:

Photo	Description of work
	The height of the frame structure is adjustable.
	Installation of toilet installation in metal profile 50 mm wide and screwed to the floor through special mounting holes.
	A frame system is installed to which it will be attached.
	Finishing material is attached.
	On seat Silicone sealant is applied.
	The fittings included in the delivery kit are inserted into the mounting holes.
	The toilet is hung and fixed using the fasteners included in the delivery set.
	The water connection is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Related article:

If you know the current level, it will be easier to check the value of different sales offers. The information in this article will be useful when performing installation operations. with my own hands and to control the actions of professional teams. In particular, they will help to correctly negotiate when determining the cost of performers’ services.

Installation of floor models

Instead of a wall-mounted model, you can install a floor-standing model hidden tank. Large assortment allows you to choose the right option for a toilet in any style.

The technology in this case includes the following steps:

Photo	Description of work
	A niche is being prepared in which the tank will be installed.
	Do-it-yourself toilet installation inside a niche and fixing it.
	In progress final finishing walls, and plumbing fixtures are installed in a designated place.

The main types of fastening the toilet to the floor

Fastening to the floor can be done in different ways:

On, installed in the screed. The hardware is placed in places corresponding to the places where the floor pan is attached, and then the screed is poured. A rather complex option that can be difficult to implement with your own hands without the help of specialists. Insufficient length of anchors may make it difficult to install the nut after installing the toilet;

On a wooden base, the geometric parameters of which must correspond to the dimensions of the installed plumbing fixtures. Nails are first driven into the board, laid on the floor with nails down, and screed is poured. During the installation process, the toilet is “seated” on epoxy glue and screwed to wooden base ordinary screws;
On the dowels. This is how a toilet is most often installed on a tiled floor. After installing the product at the site of future use, the mounting holes are marked. They should be deep enough to hold the bowl in place. To ensure reliable fastening, the bowl can be installed on epoxy resin and add some sealant to the mounting holes.

Advice! To prevent the toilet from cracking during installation, gaskets should be used during installation.

The main types of fastening the toilet to the wall

Depending on design features For a specific model, you can install a toilet with your own hands using:

Frame structure, which is a rigid frame attached to the wall and floor. The tank and pipes can be located behind a false wall;
Block system. A more affordable and compact option that involves installation exclusively on a permanent wall. Installation is carried out in a specially prepared niche, which is then laid with bricks or blocks.

Main types of connecting a toilet to a sewer system

Various adapters are used to connect the system to the sewer. Each type has its own distinctive features. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main varieties in order to have an idea of possible options.

Fan pipe or plastic pipe

If you decide to use an adapter, you need to know exactly the characteristics of the model that you plan to install yourself. When choosing suitable option special attention attention should be paid to the form of the toilet release.

Products with an oblique outlet are mounted in the floor, with a vertical outlet - in the wall, placing the pipe at a right angle. With an oblique outlet, it is permissible to install a “wall”, placing the connecting pipe under acute angle. When replacing plumbing fixtures, you should purchase a model with a similar release, otherwise the use of adapters becomes impossible.

Attention! When using a plastic outlet or fan pipe change is unacceptable geometric shape products.

Eccentric

When using an eccentric collar, according to experts, it is not necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection using sealant. At correct location Using special rubber seals, you can achieve a reliable and tight fit of the mating elements. If the pipes are cast from cast iron, it is still worth using a sealant.

Corrugation

Corrugated pipe (corrugation) is used when other materials cannot cope with the task. How to install corrugation on a toilet? After fixing the system, work is performed in the following sequence:

One end of the corrugation is placed in the sewer hole. The joint must be lubricated with silicone sealant;
The second end is put on the toilet outlet;
Check the tightness of the connection.

Connecting the bathroom to the sewer is done in three ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. We suggest you find out how you can connect a toilet to a sewer and choose the most suitable option.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

Models with vertical release are especially popular in European countries. The design of such plumbing products involves the presence of a siphon located in the bowl and an outlet pipe, which is directed downward during installation. This design is universal, and toilets with vertical outlet can be installed at any angle to the vertical.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation is carried out in the following sequence:

Markings are being made on the floor;
A screw flange with a locking device is installed;
A sewer pipe is mounted in the center of the flange;
The toilet is mounted on a flange;
The outlet pipe is fixed.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

These products are sometimes called direct flush toilets. It is most widespread in Russia. Such products have a rearward outlet. It is connected to the sewer pipe using a special cuff.

Models with a horizontal outlet are most often attached to the floor. The manufacturer provides special connection holes that allow you to attach the toilet to the floor. Dowels or standard screws are most often used as fasteners.

Advice! Fasteners should be tightened carefully so as not to damage the product.

Toilet with oblique outlet

A toilet with an oblique outlet can be connected as follows:

Cleans the socket of a cast iron half-bend from old sealing and debris;
The toilet is installed on a layer;
Excess cement paste is squeezed out. It should fill the half-bend socket by at least 2 cm.

This method is currently used quite rarely, since dismantling the equipment is quite difficult. Most often, preference is given to standard anchor screws. However, some cement paste can be placed under the sole of the toilet to compensate for any unevenness.

In some cases, silicone sealant can be used instead of cement paste. However, under significant or uneven load, the sole of the product may crack.

Then, using a sealing coupling, the outlet is connected to the cast iron socket without displacement. It can be used to compensate for existing horizontal or vertical displacement. To ensure maximum tightness, silicone sealant is pre-applied to the outer surface of the coupling.

Connecting water to the toilet cistern

To provide supply tap water to the drain tank, you can use one of the following methods:

Bottom eyeliner. Such models create a minimum of noise during operation. However, if during the installation process it was possible to ensure sufficient tightness;
Side eyeliner. They are easy to install. When performing installation yourself, you may find yourself best choice due to the simplicity of the work. It creates a lot of noise when filling the tank with water. Some models come with an extended pour pitch, which reduces the amount of noise generated;
Flexible eyeliner. Models in which the tank is located above the bowl are most often connected in this way;
Hard eyeliner. Such a system can last quite a long time.

Connections for all types of hoses are performed in the following sequence:

A separate tap is installed with which you can turn off the water supply. The insertion must be carried out according to all the rules;
One end of the line is connected to the tap and secured with a special nut;
The second end is connected to the drain tank and secured with a nut;
The mating surfaces are checked for leaks.

How much will it cost to install a toilet: price for work

If you want to know the price for the work, installing a toilet can be done for a different amount. On average, such services will cost:

We hope you liked the article. Knowing how to properly install a toilet, you can do the entire amount of work yourself. Share in the comments how you completed this task yourself. If you have any questions, ask. We will definitely answer.

What tools will you need?

Before you begin, you need a minimum set of tools. This is where any decent video about installing a toilet with your own hands will start. In order not to discover a shortage of any tool right during work, which will be very unpleasant, you need to make a list of what you need in advance and, if something is missing, buy it in addition. We will need:

Ratchet with head;
Construction gun for applying silicone;
Kern;
Phillips and flat head screwdriver;
Electric drill with perforation;
Adjustable wrench;
Tubular head for installing faucets;
Small adjustable wrench;
A set of drills of different diameters;
Hammer;
Silicone, fum tape and tow.

Sewage and water supply

First, you should worry about drainage. The drain hole should be slightly lower than the flare of the toilet itself to ensure proper drainage. To do this, you can use a corrugated pipe, which is perfect if it is not possible to remove the drain opposite the socket of the toilet itself. Or you can use an ABU pipe, since they will not linger on smooth walls various kinds substances.

Since the toilet requires cold water to flush, it is also worth taking care of an additional outlet. It will be connected to the toilet via a flexible hose, thanks to which it can be easily hidden or placed where it is more convenient for you.

Toilet installation

After the sewer hole is ready, it is necessary to connect the toilet to it in the way it will then stand. Next, you need to mark on the floor where the anchor bolts will be attached. To do this, insert a pencil directly into the toilet mounting hole and twist it to mark the edges. As a result, you should get the same result as in the video about installing a new toilet, namely two even circles on the floor. Then we simply move the toilet to the side.

Now we take the core in our hands, place it in the center of the circle and lightly hit it from above with a hammer. If you, like everyone else, have tiles on the floor, knock lightly and very carefully so that they do not crack. Why is this necessary? It's simple: the drill will simply slide along a smooth surface and the hole will definitely move, and this way you will drill exactly where you intended.

Once outlined, select a drill to match the diameter of the anchor bolt and begin drilling two holes in the floor strictly at right angles. It’s better to measure several times and even pick up a level. If the hole turns out to be crooked, the bolt will certainly move, and the load on the mounting hole will be distributed incorrectly, which can cause a crack. This information can rarely be found on videos of how to properly install a toilet with your own hands, but it’s worth listening to.

The next step is to hammer the dowels into the floor. Again, be careful not to damage the tiles with the hammer.

Tip: in this case, you can take a small wooden peg or just hammer it in completely wooden handle the hammer itself.

Next, you need to prepare the drain pipe and drainage system. We wind the hose to the outlet under the water, having previously wrapped the threads with fum tape. We insert all the seals into the drain, and it work surface, like the edge of the toilet bowl, we treat it with silicone. This will make it easier to insert the toilet pipe and will seal it later. You can check the correct operation by watching how to install the toilet yourself in the video.

Then we put the toilet in its place, insert the toilet flare tightly into drain pipe. We screw on the water supply hose. Now you can secure the toilet in its place with anchor bolts. And we put plugs on the screwed mount.

Important: when installing the toilet in place, make sure that the mounting holes line up with the dowels in the floor. Otherwise, after sealing, it will be very difficult to redo the work.

Now you need to treat the area where the floor comes into contact with the toilet. In many videos about installing a toilet yourself, you will learn that there are no ideal surfaces. This applies to both tiles and toilets. To prevent liquid from flowing under it and dirt from accumulating under it, the contour must be treated with a sealant.

Tip: excess must be removed immediately with a rag or toilet paper.

Almost any toilet installation in the video ends with the installation of the toilet lid. We connect the lid to the rim and insert the brackets into the holes. Then we put a rubber seal on them and insert them with long screws into the grooves on the toilet. We position them so that the edges of the lid do not protrude, and then screw them on.

The work of installing new plumbing is a source of concern for many novice craftsmen. The variety of design solutions for plumbing fixtures and methods of connecting them requires the contractor to know the intricacies of the process.

We will try to reveal the main ones and analyze how to correctly install a toilet with your own hands without the help of plumbers.

The range of plumbing fixtures on the market is varied. Any owner has the opportunity to choose presentable and functional equipment to suit his own taste and budget.

In addition to traditional floor models Manufacturers offer a wide selection of suspended and built-in devices. The drain tank in them can be attached to the wall or connected to the base of the plumbing fixtures.

The design of the bowl of floor-standing and hanging models can be anything, for example, a dish-shaped, funnel-shaped or even a visor modification

The latest toilet models also differ in the design of key components.

The output discharge is:

horizontal;
vertical;
oblique.

The type of outlet drain should be taken into account when choosing a model. If your plans do not include altering the sewer pipe supply, then in the installed model the drain should be arranged according to the same principle as in the dismantled one.

Inconsistent drains and plumbing supply, provided that it is not a toilet with an outlet, are almost impossible to combine as tightly and efficiently as possible.

Fixation of plumbing fixtures to the floor is carried out using specially made two or four fastening points. But you can also find models in which the corners included with the product are used for fastening to the floor.

A new plumbing fixture can be placed in the place of the old one, or you can choose another “corner” for it, making a small redevelopment in the bathroom.

Preparation of tools and materials

To connect the tank to the water supply you will need a flexible hose. It usually comes included. For connection to the sewer - a rigid or bendable corrugated cuff.

It is impossible to perform high-quality installation of a toilet bowl with your own hands without minimum set necessary tools that any owner has in their home

To assemble the structure and connect to communications you will need:

hammer drill or impact drill;
a set of screwdrivers with flat and Phillips blades;
set of wrenches;
building level;
a simple pencil or marker;
stationery knife;
roulette;
chisel;
hammer.

If the installation of plumbing fixtures will be carried out on tiles, then it is also necessary to prepare a “ballerina” or a spear-shaped drill for working on tiles. To make holes for installing fasteners, you will also need an 8 or 10 mm drill.

Auxiliary materials will also be required:

metallized tape;
silicone sealant;
FUM tape;
polyethylene film;
moisture-absorbing piece of fabric;
container for collecting liquid.

Depending on the type of model being connected and the installation method, cement mortar may also be required.

Removing an old toilet

Removing an old toilet is one of the most time-consuming operations.

The work is carried out in several stages:

Turn off the tap.
Disconnect the hose going to the tank from the water supply and drain the water from it.
The empty tank is removed from its mounts.
Unscrew the nuts located on the back of the toilet and disconnect it from the sewer. To loosen the drain, the toilet needs to be rocked from side to side.
Drain the remaining water from the toilet by tilting the bowl forward.
The sewer hole closer to heaven is cleared of dirt and temporarily blocked with a rag gag or a wooden plug of suitable diameter.

The easiest way to remove the bolts is to hold the head with an open-end wrench and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If threaded connections heavily slagged with salt deposits or rusted.

To make the task easier, use universal lubricant “WD-40”, which can loosen deposits in a matter of minutes. In the absence of one, you can use vinegar or kerosene.

The sewer hole must be closed so that toxic hot gases do not spread beyond the pipeline

If rotten taffeta or any other support is found under the dismantled toilet, it must be removed. This can be done with a hammer drill, nail puller or chisel.

In older houses, drains on sewer pipes are often secured with cement coating. The easiest way to knock down dried mortar is with a chisel, pricking it in several places. Detailed instructions Read about dismantling an old toilet.

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Option #2 – with horizontal outlet

Plumbing fixtures with horizontal outlet have become one of the most popular in our country. The relevance of installing such equipment is explained by the specifics of the wiring of the sewerage system in Russian apartments.

The main feature of toilets with a straight horizontal outlet pipe is that for proper installation a strictly fixed connection point to the communications is required

The horizontal outlet is located at the back of the bowl or base and is directed backwards. Models with this design installed end-to-end with the wall, connecting to any type of location sewer riser.

The connection is made using pipes of the appropriate size. The connection is sealed by placing a sealing rubber inside the pipe.

Direct connection is made only if the sewer system is made of plastic. To connect to cast iron pipes, whose circumference rarely has an ideal shape, use cuffs and eccentrics.

Option #3 – with oblique release

The socket in models with an oblique outlet is located at an angle of 45° relative to the floor surface. Models with an inclined outlet benefit from their counterparts in that they are less likely to become clogged, since this design makes it possible to create less resistance when moving solid sewage.

The weak point of devices with oblique discharge are the points of connection between the product and the sewer pipe, which, when improper installation may become cracked

Connecting a device with an oblique outlet to the sewerage system can be done in one of three ways:

By direct connection through the sewer branch socket. They are chosen when there is no need to move the plumbing fixture, and the direction of all elements clearly coincides. The toilet outlet is treated with soapy water and buried in a socket equipped with a cuff.
Connection via eccentric. A socket with a center offset of 5 cm, equipped with a sealing gasket, is mounted in the sewer outlet and by rotating the toilet is shifted to the right or left side.
By installing a corrugated outlet. The use of corrugation makes it possible to deploy the relative oblique sewer outlet device even at an angle of 90°.

Flexible outlet - although convenient, it is far from the best remedy for connecting toilets with oblique outlet. It should be used only in extreme cases, when other methods are not possible.

To find out in more detail how to install a toilet with an oblique outlet, go to.

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The most simple option connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet is the use of corrugation, which ensures perfect tightness

If a long-term connection is not made with the help of corrugation, then you need to use a reinforced version of the corrugated pipe

Using a corrugation, a toilet with an inclined outlet can be connected to a drain located in the floor or wall

If it is possible to reduce the distance between the toilet and the sewer system, instead of corrugation, it is recommended to use a sealed cuff and a plastic outlet

Use of corrugation in connection to the sewerage system

Reinforced corrugation for reliable operation

Toilet connection with side outlet

Cuff in the connection to the sewerage

Installation features of compact models

The technology for correct installation of floor-standing toilets of compact models includes seven main stages:

The toilet bowl is moved as tightly as possible to the drain hole and checked whether the outlet coincides with the sewer pipe.
If there are small displacements, the device is connected to the sewerage outlet using a corrugated pipe.
The plumbing fixture with the connected corrugated pipe is moved towards the wall, making sure that strong creases and bends do not form on the pipe.
The ends of the connecting element are covered with a thin layer of silicone sealant.
Having adjusted the position of the device, use a pencil to mark the outline of the boundaries of the base of the device and the points where it is planned to drill holes for deepening the dowels.
The toilet is moved to the side. At the designated points, holes are made with a diamond drill with a diameter equal to the size of the dowels used.
Plastic plugs are inserted into the holes. The toilet is “reinstalled” in its original place. Bolts are screwed into the prepared holes.

Tip: to make it easier to put the corrugated pipe on the outlet, its end must be coated with liquid soap on the inner walls.

If holes have to be made in tiles to minimize damage to the surface, first slowly drill the top layer by hand, and only then turn on the hammer drill with impact drill mode

To ensure the tightest possible fit of the toilet sole to the floor covering, silicone is applied along the intended installation counter of the device. The toilet itself is then placed in its original place, following the intended contour.

To fix the plumbing fixture, washers and screws threaded through the holes in the heel are tightened extremely carefully. Under no circumstances should they be driven in!

Photo guide for assembling and installing the compact

Let's look at the process of installing a toilet using the example of assembling and fastening Chinese PORTA plumbing fixtures. An excellent product with a 25-year manufacturer's warranty and a very attractive price.

Image gallery

Before installing a new toilet, we dismantle the old plumbing, clean the floor under it, repair it and fill it with semi-dry cement mortar

We install a new plastic adapter into the sewer outlet, to which we will connect either a corrugation or a rigid plastic elbow

If necessary, we change the cold water supply pipes in the area behind the toilet. Most often this has to be done so as not to change the pipeline a year or two after installing new plumbing

According to the completed connection from the toilet to the sewer, we set up the plumbing fixtures for fitting in order to mark the attachment points and outline the leg

Step 1: Preparing the floor for the new toilet

Step 2: Replacement of pipes and connections to the sewerage system

Installation of plumbing equipment is carried out in strict accordance with building regulations and norms. Home craftsmen are often afraid of such work. They take advantage of this service companies, which ask for very decent money for performing fairly simple operations. Meanwhile, attaching the toilet to the floor is an activity that can be done independently. It is only important to carefully read existing technologies works, choose the most suitable one, and follow all instructions exactly.

Regardless of the chosen method of attaching the toilet, installation work begins with assembling the flush cistern. The device is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed in the place intended for it. Also, before installing the toilet, the water supply and drainage units must be prepared. There are several methods for attaching devices. The main selection criterion is the floor material on which the equipment will be installed. Let's take a closer look at the most common methods.

Method No. 1: installation on dowels

The most practical method that allows you to install the device with the least amount of effort and time. It is optimal for use on a flat, smooth base, since the slightest differences in height negatively affect the quality of flushing. It is preferable to use this fastening method for lightweight compact structures, since the fixation may not be entirely reliable. Plumbers advise installing the equipment on a special gasket, which you can easily make yourself from old linoleum or a sheet of thin rubber. The toilet bowl is installed on the workpiece and traced along the contour with a marker. After which sharp knife or simply use scissors to cut out the gasket of the desired shape.

The device is fixed to the floor using dowels or special plumbing fasteners. Fasteners are usually included with new equipment. It can also be purchased in specialized stores

Now you need to mark. We “try on” the toilet in the place prepared for the equipment and trace its outline. We remove the device. Apply thin layer sealant and glue the gasket onto it. This design will be the most reliable, although some craftsmen prefer to do without a substrate at all. You can start drilling holes for fasteners. As practice shows, if you glue the gasket well and choose the diameter of the drill so that the holes for the fasteners are slightly larger than it, then further installation will be much easier. This is due to the fact that the rubber backing acts as a kind of “contact spot” for the floor and the device.

It happens that you need to not only fix the toilet to the floor, but also raise it a little. This is relevant if there are several devices in the apartment. Then the last one in the system needs to be raised by about 3-4 cm. In this case, use a piece of a two-inch board, which is used as a stand. It is cut exactly along the contour of the toilet and laid on the floor, with a rubber backing placed on top of it. All this is held together with sealant and forms a reliable and robust construction. We drill holes for fastenings directly along the gasket.

You must tighten the fastening on the base of the toilet very carefully. Excessive force may damage the ceramic material from which the device is made.

Long metal dowels or special plumbing fasteners can be used as fastenings. The latter usually come complete with new equipment. The quality of fastening is approximately the same, so both options can be used. We hammer the dowels into the holes prepared in the floor. We install the toilet and carefully screw it on. It must be remembered that if over-tightened, the ceramic from which the device is made may be damaged.

Now you need to connect the device to the sewer. At this stage we pay special attention to the corrugation. Generously lubricate both edges with silicone. We insert one of them into the sewer socket, and put the second one on the toilet outlet. All areas of the connection should be carefully pressed with your fingers to ensure a good seal. As additional measure You can use metallized tape to seal the joints. We connect the water supply and the device is ready for use. There is a similar fastening method, which is presented in detail in the video.

Method No. 2: glue installation

Of all the methods for fixing a toilet to the floor, this is the simplest, but at the same time the most time-consuming. For hardening epoxy mixture, which is used as glue, takes about 12-15 hours. This method can only be used on a smooth surface. It is most often used to secure equipment to floor tiles. The method is very simple to implement. First, both surfaces to be glued must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Floor tiles can be sanded to make it rougher. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces are degreased with any solvent or acetone.

Prepare the glue. You can buy ready-made epoxy composition or cook it yourself. To do this, you need to take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy resin, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of hardener. The sequence of adding components to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, then a hardener and, at the very end, cement. The composition must be constantly stirred to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.

To ensure the toilet is securely locked in place, flooring prepare: clean for better adhesion and coat with a small layer of glue. Excess composition released under the weight of the equipment is immediately removed with a damp cloth.

A properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within one and a half hours. We apply it to the base of the toilet so that the solution covers an area of at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, aligning the sewer socket with the outlet, and forcefully press it to the floor. After which we leave the device for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the adhesive to harden. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage.

Method No. 3: fastening with taffeta

This method is most often used to install toilets on wooden floors. Taffeta is a pad of durable wood to which the equipment is attached. The thickness of the board from which the element corresponding to the shape of the toilet support column is cut should be 28-32 mm. To protect the part from dampness, it must be carefully treated with drying oil. To securely fasten it to the floor, anchors are installed at the bottom of the taffeta. The simplest option is nails driven in in a checkerboard pattern, which should protrude 2-3 cm from the part. The recess prepared for installing the toilet is filled cement mortar. Taffeta is sunk into it with anchors. As a result, it should be flush with the floor.

After approximately 12 hours, during which the solution completely dries, you can begin attaching the equipment. The device is fixed with screws. Rubber washers must be placed under their heads, which will prevent possible damage to the toilet frame when tightened. Experts advise lubricating the screws with grease or graphite before work so that later, if necessary, they can be easily unscrewed. Wood taffeta can be replaced with a rubber backing. She's cut out of sheet material thickness from 5 to 15 mm, possibly even from an old rubber mat. Such a substrate should be 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support stand.

Fastening the toilet to taffeta involves the use of a special wooden insert. The diagram shows all the elements of such fastening

The methods for attaching a standard toilet to the floor are varied. They differ significantly in complexity and time spent on installation work. It is important to choose the right fastening method. It depends on the material from which the floor in the room is made. You can carry out the installation work yourself, but if you have no experience or desire, it is better to turn to professionals. They will quickly and competently carry out all the work, guaranteeing long and flawless service of the new equipment.

A toilet is a thing that, depending on the number of people in the family, is used with enviable regularity. And although manufacturers make it quite durable, nevertheless, there is a whole series reasons why the toilet needs to be replaced. For example, the ceramics have become unsightly or the toilet mechanism has broken down, plus there is the natural physical and moral wear and tear of things. Therefore, the question of how to install a toilet is of interest to many who have not escaped the problem of replacing a toilet.

Types of toilets

The plumbing products market offers all types of toilets, which differ according to special characteristics:

according to the configuration of the outlet drain: horizontal, oblique, which is located at an angle of 45 degrees and vertical;
according to the shape of the bowl: visor, where near the walls different angle tilt, dish-shaped with an internal platform and funnel-shaped, which is considered the most practical option.

Before you begin, you need to figure out how to properly install the toilet, depending on the main toilet systems, the disassembly of which can have significant differences:

Mounted or wall-mounted. With this design, the plumbing fixtures do not touch the floor, but are only attached to a special installation wall system, which can withstand any load. Aesthetically, everything looks attractive, because... all communications are hidden. However, installing such a structure requires significant financial costs, the smallest repair turns into a huge problem, and the question of how to install a toilet with your own hands remains open.
Attached. With this system, the toilet is attached to the floor, and the cistern with all communications is hidden in the wall. The plus is the appearance of such a device, and the minus is the difficult repair of hidden parts.
In-floor. This system is used in public toilets, when installation is done directly into the recess of the floor. However, for apartments and houses this option remains unacceptable to many.
Floor-standing. The most popular standard designs are with a toilet attached to the floor and an adjacent cistern. An undeniable advantage of such technologies is the ability to install and repair a toilet yourself, without the help of specialists.

Installing a new toilet, regardless of the specific type of product, consists of two stages:

removing the old toilet;
installation of a new product.

Dismantling the toilet

When removing the old toilet, you must take special measures precautions to avoid water leakage, which, in the worst case, will require further reconstruction measures. Therefore, in order to avoid typical mistakes, below is given step by step guide for non-professionals.

Shut off water

The first step in removing a toilet is to turn off the water. This can be done by simply turning off the tap. However, there are situations when valves are no longer used long time, and they manage to rust. In this case, you should shut off the main riser and change the faucet at the same time during the repair process.

Advice! To prevent faucets from rusting, they should be used for preventive maintenance at least once a year.

After turning off the tap, you should completely drain the water from the tank.

Disconnecting the water supply hose

On the side of the cistern there is a flexible hose through which water flows for flushing. It is fastened with ordinary nuts, which are unscrewed very simply.

Removing the cistern

The flush tank is attached to the toilet with two long bolts. In order to unscrew them, you first need to remove the tank cap. Then, if necessary, blot off excess moisture with a sponge (if there is water left inside, it will definitely spill onto the floor through the holes of the removed bolts). A situation may arise when the screws become rusty, because... have been in contact with water for many years, then a special anti-rust product will help.

After loosening the bolts, you should carefully remove the drain tank, rocking it in different directions to ensure even removal.

The toilet bowl, as a rule, is attached to the floor with several bolts (an option is when they first put it under the toilet bowl). wooden board). To make the work process easier, you first need to remove the toilet lid. Then be sure to put rags on the floor or place a bucket. The toilet has a water seal where water is constantly present - this is a kind of barrier against unpleasant odors from the public sewer. When removing plumbing fixtures, a fair amount of liquid spills out, which can result in flooding your neighbors.

Then you need to unscrew the bolts at the base of the toilet. If they are rusty, then you need to use special means or cut them with a grinder.

You need to go along the entire base line with a sharp knife or blade, because... Often the joint between the toilet and the floor is coated with sealant.

The attachment to a common sewer pipe is very often fixed with cement. In order to get rid of it, you can use a drill with a medium drill.

Important! To avoid breathing gases from an open sewer, before removing the toilet, you should prepare a homemade plug, for example, old rags. After quick cleaning pipes from the remains of construction waste, you must immediately plug the hole with prepared rags.

Now old toilet can be removed, and this completes the dismantling work.

Removing a wall hung toilet

When dismantling a wall-hung toilet, the procedure is approximately the same:

first you need to loosen the bolts that hold the toilet in the wall installation;
then disconnect the toilet from the cistern and the general sewer system;
finally remove the toilet.

Before directly installing the plumbing product, you need to perform some actions:

Take accurate measurements of the old toilet to avoid unnecessary problems when purchasing and subsequently installing a new one. You also need to pay attention to the length of the bowl so that it does not accidentally block the door.
Choose a brass fastener that does not corrode. However, some metal toilet bolts have a yellowish zinc coating that makes them look like brass, so the product should be checked carefully.
Repair or good.

When installing a toilet, you can use one of three methods:

Taffeta fastening. With this installation method, taffeta is placed under the base of the toilet. This is a special hardwood board pre-treated with drying oil. It should be laid either flush with the floor or slightly higher than it. The taffeta must be secured with anchors and the installation site must be filled with cement. After the solution has completely dried, you can begin installing the toilet. All joints with the sewer pipe should be treated with sealant and sealed with tow, and the base of the toilet should be screwed to the prepared area with screws. Then attach the drain tank and check the tightness of the system.
Connection with glue. One of the most simple ways can be considered a toilet mount epoxy glue. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean the contacting surfaces, and then degrease them with one of the substances - solvent, acetone or white spirit. After this, you need to roughen them for greater adhesion and repeat the degreasing procedure. Then dry. Next action you need to connect the cistern to the toilet. Then you need to apply a thin layer of epoxy glue to the floor, place a plumbing product on it and press it well (you can just sit on the toilet). The glue must dry for at least 12 hours.
Dowel installation. Correct installation toilet bowl can be easily installed with dowels. This practical method involves fixing the toilet directly to the floor, without first installing additional structures under its “leg”.

Installing a toilet with your own hands will consist of several steps:

Preliminary fitting. You need to place the toilet on the prepared floor and check for discrepancies between the height of the neck and the waste pipe. It is also necessary to check the angle of inclination. If necessary, correction should be made.
Design markings. First, you should measure the width of the room and find the middle, which will be the axis of the toilet. Install a toilet on it, approximately 10-15 cm from the outlet pipe of the waste pipe. Then, you can insert a marker into the mounting holes and make the appropriate marks. At the end you need to circle the base.
Assembling the drain tank. In accordance with the instructions in the instructions, you need to assemble the tank and then screw it to the toilet. To check the quality of the work done, you can reconnect all communications and perform a test run. After a successful experiment, you need to drain the water again and continue the process of replacing the toilet.
Preparing mounting holes. In the places indicated by the marker, using impact drill or a hammer drill you need to make holes. Then hammer plastic dowels into them.
Corrugation sealing. First you need to wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone in waves to the ribbed rubber hidden in the drain pipe. The same actions must be carried out from the opposite end of the corrugation, treating the area that fits onto the neck of the toilet bowl.
Connecting the device to the sewer. First, part of the corrugation (to the edge of the elastic) needs to be inserted into the sewer pipe. On the opposite side, firmly place it on the toilet outlet. Then, on the place previously outlined with a marker, you need to lay a special rubber gasket or apply a good ball of silicone.
Installation of equipment. Initially, you need to place the toilet in the prepared place, press it and screw it to the floor. Excess silicone formed during installation can be cleaned with a wet cloth, running it along the contour of the device.

This completes the installation. Now you can carry out a test run of water. If the work was carried out without errors, then the tank will be filled with water to the required level and its flow will stop. There should be no overflow. After draining the water, the process should be repeated without failure. You should also carefully check that the newly installed structure is not leaking anywhere. If everything meets the above criteria, then the installation can be considered successful.

IN recent years wall hung toilet has become very popular, so the question of installation wall hung toilet more relevant than ever. Installation of such plumbing equipment is carried out on the wall without any fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to securely fix the toilet, you first need to build metal frame. It attaches directly to load-bearing wall, and then the toilet itself. This applies if the tank and pipes need to be hidden behind plasterboard wall. In some versions, a wall-mounted toilet with an open tank can be mounted directly on the wall. But then it will be necessary to press the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is done using anchors that are mounted into the wall or frame.

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor

The tiles should always be intact and beautiful, regardless of the workflow for installing the toilet. There are unspoken rules for this, a list of which is given below:

When installing the toilet, be sure to wear rubber gaskets for anchor nuts and dowels. They will prevent cracks in the toilet when tightened and eliminate rusty streaks on the ceramic tiles.
If the tiles have already been laid, then the best solution will attach the toilet with epoxy resin or dowels.

Important! You cannot make deep holes for dowels, because... the waterproofing layer can be damaged, which in turn can lead to more serious problems.