How and where to make a cesspool. Construction and maintenance of a cesspool without pumping

For residents of the private sector who are not connected to a sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic waste is always relevant.

Depending on the amount of water drained, you can choose the appropriate option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
• sealed cesspool - for a large amount of waste;
• septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use a drainage pit. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

Through such a filtration pad, water will slowly seep into the ground, purifying itself along the way.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

Or you can do it yourself by concreteing the foundation pit or installing concrete rings on a concrete base.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but ordering monthly pumping of the pit is expensive, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than a conventional pit latrine. Ready-made systems are sold that just need to be buried on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a whole series advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;

A large area is not required to organize a filtration field;

You can organize one septic tank for two houses;

Depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;

A complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;

– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;

– additional equipment– to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a site on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this solves the issue of insulation drain pipe– the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the level groundwater, it does not need to be buried completely in the ground, but the above-ground part is insulated to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and create a bed.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

DIY cesspool

DIY cesspool. Communications. For residents of the private sector who are not connected to a sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic waste is always relevant. Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can choose the appropriate option: a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse; sealed cesspool - for a large person.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Residents of multi-apartment buildings do not have to worry about the removal and disposal of biowaste; housing and communal services do everything for them. Those who live in a private house need to resolve such problems themselves. One solution is to build a cesspool. It does not require large installation costs and performs an excellent sanitary cleaning function. You just need to know how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Choosing a cesspool location

There is a system of rules and regulations that controls the construction of a cesspool for a private home. Sanitary standards determine the location of the cesspool on the site and the distance from it to various outbuildings. When planning pits for biowaste, the following rules must be taken into account:

• The cesspool should be located at a distance of at least a dozen meters from residential premises;
• There should be more than a meter from the cesspool to the fence;
• When installing a bottomless pit, it is necessary to take into account the location of the wells. The nearest well must be at a distance of no less than 30 meters.

The simplest cheap options

The predecessor of the cesspool was an ordinary hole dug in the soil, the walls of which were smeared with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other old containers into the ground. Today, such tanks for collecting and partially purifying waste are installed only when the daily volume is no more than one cubic meter.

If the owner of a private house does not really want to spend money on arranging a cesspool, he can use old car tires. You just need to put them in a dug basin, connecting them with bolts. Then the basin is covered with earth, a concrete slab is placed on top with a hole for the ventilation pipe, as well as a hatch for pumping out.

Popular types of structures

Based on the characteristic design differences, pits for biowaste are divided into absorbent and sealed. Septic tanks are used to collect, store and treat waste. These are structures with a more complex design.

Absorption tanks (bottomless)

A distinctive feature is that there is no bottom; therefore, the liquids, after being cleaned with a sand, gravel and brick filter, are sent to the soil. The absorption tank is the most inexpensive and easiest to install. Due to the partial infiltration of treated wastewater into the soil, there is much less need to call a sewage service.

The absorbent type is selected if there is no need to drain a lot of wastewater. The soil will not be able to accept and process large volumes. Also, such a pit cannot be called an environmentally friendly option, because waste entering the soil will pollute it.

Sealed containers

They are closed waterproof concrete/brick/gas silicate tanks. They must be emptied regularly after filling. If you know how to properly make a sealed type cesspool, you will be guaranteed the absolute absence of odors characteristic of a toilet, but sometimes you will have to call the sanitation service. Remember that the use of cinder blocks for the construction of a cesspool is unacceptable (they quickly collapse when in contact with water).

The simplest solution for arranging a cesspool is the installation of a store-bought plastic tank. It does not need to be sealed, but you will need to fill the bottom of the basin with a special cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement.

Simple homemade cleaning structures

These are structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also transform wastewater into fertilizer useful for the garden. They are often a two- or three-chamber system. In the 1st chamber, collection and partial cleaning are carried out, in the 2nd and 3rd, complete recycling of waste occurs.

You can use old car tires. To install such a cesspool, you do not need a solid concrete foundation; a dense sand cushion with crushed stone thirty-five centimeters thick, as well as a one-decimeter screed, will suffice.

• To increase the reservoir capacity, the tire sides must be trimmed;
• A vertical concrete pipe with a diameter approximately a couple of times smaller than that of tires is placed in a well made from tires. The upper section of the pipe is located a decimeter lower than the well constructed from tires;
• The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to form a solid cylinder.

Holes will need to be made on top for infiltration and installation of pipes that will provide overflow. The sewerage pipe must be inserted into a concrete tank. The areas where sewer pipes enter vertical concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to build an absorption pit from concrete rings

• It is necessary to dig a shaft-type basin; its diameter should be approximately eighty centimeters larger than the diameter of the rings. You will need three rings;
• A concrete screed is made around the perimeter. This is the future base for the rings;
• In the lower ring, make holes every decimeter so that the purified liquid has the opportunity to leave the sump. The diameter of the filtration holes is five centimeters;
• The depth of the structure underground should not be more than three meters, otherwise it will be difficult to remove sediment from the cesspool;
• Approximately a meter deep, the finished pit is filled with sand, brick, crushed stone and gravel mixed with soil;
• The outer basin is filled with the same mixture. Before backfilling, the cesspool is waterproofed, which will protect the structure from groundwater;
• At the end there is a plate with a pair of holes. One is intended for the hatch, the second for ventilation;
• To increase the quality of purification, it is recommended to place the filter well slightly higher than the cleaning tank.

Installation of a sealed structure

The construction method is similar, but you don’t need to make infiltration holes, you need to completely concrete the bottom. It is recommended to reinforce the lower platform with concrete. To prevent the reinforcement from getting stuck in the concrete, it must be raised slightly and secured on pegs.

It is advisable to seal the walls. An inexpensive internal insulator is bitumen, and clay is an external insulator. If the walls of the cesspool consist of brickwork, they can be covered with plaster.

Laying bricks takes much longer than installing concrete rings. A concrete screed is made below, the bricks are laid in a circle/square. Before you start laying, you need to wait a week after creating the concrete platform.

The sewerage pipeline must be tilted slightly to ensure spontaneous drainage.

Toilet cesspool

Those who want to build a toilet should also know how to properly make a cesspool. Most often, a small hole is dug, to which you can freely drive up to empty it. The cesspool is lined with bricks or filled with concrete.

The depth can be arbitrary, it all depends on the soil of the litter. It is recommended to dig a cesspool down to a layer of sand that will absorb waste. The bottom of the pit is filled with sand and gravel mixture and crushed stone.

Other dimensions are installed on site. Ventilation is recommended. A pipe that rises about six decimeters above the roof of the restroom is suitable.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Learn more about how you can make a cesspool with your own hands in a private house. How to choose a place. The best options. Arrangement technology.

Cesspool in a private house - diagram, materials, device

A cesspool in a private house, the design of which is chosen in accordance with existing requirements and rules, is capable of collecting household waste without the risk of soil contamination. Despite the fact that constructing a pit is simpler than, for example, constructing a septic tank, there are certain nuances that directly affect the effectiveness of such sewer system and, accordingly, on the comfort of living.

Pros and cons of using

The advantages of cesspools are determined simplicity of their design. Such a structure can be built quite quickly. In addition, its cost will be low - often the most affordable materials are used, including second-hand ones.

The disadvantage of a cesspool is, first of all, the need to pump out wastewater. Depending on the circumstances (the volume of the pit, the number of people, the presence of water-consuming household appliances), the frequency may vary, but the services of a sewer truck will always be one of your expenses.

Pumping out a cesspool using sewage disposal equipment

Important: The maximum depth of the cesspool should not be more than 3 meters, otherwise problems may arise with its pumping.

Another significant drawback that you need to know about before making a cesspool in a private house with your own hands is sanitary “unreliability”, if we are talking about its leaky version. It is necessary to very carefully consider the location of the cesspool and its design, calculate the required volume so that the structure does not poison the existence of the inhabitants of the house with unpleasant odors and, even worse, does not cause harmful substances to enter the soil of the garden or the occurrence of infectious diseases.

Types of cesspools

The design of cesspools in a private house largely depends on how the country building is used. For a small amount of waste and periodic residence, you can choose a pit without a bottom, but if a family of several people lives in the house permanently, it is better to prefer a sealed storage tank. Each of the options deserves more detailed consideration.

Cesspool without bottom

A cesspool without a bottom is a kind of “well”, the walls of which prevent wastewater from entering the upper layers of the soil, and instead of the bottom, a kind of filter is made of crushed stone or gravel. Passing through it, the wastewater is partially filtered, after which it enters the soil and, passing through it, is purified more efficiently. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to constantly call vacuum cleaners. You won’t be able to do without cleaning at all, but its frequency can be significantly reduced.

The photo shows a diagram of a cesspool in a private house without a bottom

It is advisable wastewater separation and the installation of separate cesspools for the toilet. Toilet pit in this case, it will fill more slowly (and, accordingly, require calling out special equipment less often), and the drainage from the shower, bathtub, kitchen sink will minimum quantity insoluble inclusions will almost completely disappear through the filter into the soil.

One of the options for separating wastewater into different tanks

Use of bioactivators promotes the decomposition of impurities in wastewater, improving the quality of treatment and slower filling. Only sludge remains in the container, and purified water is removed through a filter. Bacteria in the soil act in a similar way, however, if the total volume of wastewater exceeds 1 cubic meter, there will not be enough of them to process such an amount of liquid.

It is important to know that such a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private home has “contraindications.”

• The close location of groundwater excludes the possibility of installing a model without a bottom, since when its level rises during a flood or during heavy rain, the hole can spontaneously fill. In addition, under such conditions, the quality of filtration noticeably decreases - wastewater does not pass through the soil, being purified, but goes directly into groundwater.
• Clay soil has too low permeability to ensure timely removal of the contents of the cesspool.
• The volume of such a cesspool should not be more than 1 cubic meter.

Sealed cesspool

Sealed structures with a bottom are only storage units. The wastewater must be pumped out using a sewer truck. Despite the need to pay for the services of special equipment, this option also has its advantages:

• sanitary safety and eliminating the possibility of soil contamination and the spread of pathogenic bacteria,
• Possibility of use in all types of soil.

For sealed structures of small volume, ready-made waterproof containers are often used. A large cesspool in a private house, the design of which involves collecting wastewater from a large number of points, is most often built from one or another material suitable for its characteristics.

Materials for cesspools

By considering the features of materials often used for the construction of such structures and comparing them with the conditions of a particular facility, you can decide which cesspool in a private house will be the most effective and economical.

Finished goods

The use of finished products can significantly reduce the duration of construction work, and in some cases, their labor intensity.

• Tires cars are used as blocks - they are installed one on top of the other, secured with clamps, waterproof glue and sealing the joints. In most cases, tire cesspools have no bottom. The advantages of this option are low cost, easy and quick installation.

A tire cesspool is one of the cheapest options for organizing sewerage

• Concrete rings- another option for block construction of cesspools. They weigh a lot, so lifting equipment will be required to install them in the pit. At the same time, construction will not take much time, and the resulting structure will be strong and durable. Concrete rings can be used to construct both hermetic storage tanks and filter structures without a bottom. In the first case, the rings are installed on concrete foundation. Seal joints and treat the internal and external surfaces of concrete products with waterproofing compounds (one of the most available options– ordinary bitumen, although you can purchase special mastics if desired) is recommended regardless of the type of product.

Concrete rings for sewerage

• Iron or plastic barrels require minimal effort during installation, but they significant drawback is a small volume. As a storage facility, they are only suitable for a summer residence, and to install a cesspool with a filter, you will need to remove the bottom. Iron products require application waterproofing coating from external and inside for protection against corrosion.

Plastic barrel as a sewage container

• Plastic storage models fixation to the foundation is required to prevent them from floating during floods. In addition, at the stage of backfilling the assembled structure, it is recommended to fill the container with water to prevent its deformation due to compression by soil.

Plastic storage tank

Installation of plastic Eurocubes

Construction materials

The use of building materials slightly increases the time it takes to create a structure. At the same time, a significant advantage is that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house in this case can be arranged in any configuration, taking into account sanitary requirements and site planning. It can be round or rectangular, including narrow and long, if this option is more convenient to locate on the territory.

• Concrete poured structures are made using formwork by gradually increasing the height of the wall.
• Brickwork can be done in a circle, but more often, for reasons of convenience, brick pits are made rectangular.

Both options can be used for the construction of storage or filter structures and in most cases require the application of a double-sided waterproofing layer.

In certain situations for better drainage additional holes are made in the walls of the pit

Rules for choosing location and volume

The volume of the cesspool must, according to sanitary standards, be no less than the three-day water consumption rate. The estimated number is considered to be 200 liters per day per person, however, it is important to know that this figure is relevant for permanent residence. When visiting the dacha periodically, it is less, and water is not consumed every day.

In a house with permanent residence, a family of 3 people needs a pit of at least 1 cubic meter. Sometimes it is more convenient to use two small ones than one spacious hole. The design of a cesspool in a private house should take into account required distances from significant objects - at least 30 m from the place of drinking water intake, at least 3 m from garden and garden plants and 5 m from the road. In this case, storage models should be positioned so that a sewage disposal truck can easily drive up to it.

Sump pit layout

Cleaning the cesspool

You should be aware that the operation of vacuum cleaners does not guarantee complete cleaning of the tank. It is only possible to pump out liquid, while sediment will remain and accumulate at the bottom. Speaking about how to clean a cesspool in a private house, it should be noted that cleaning can be optimized by using special preparations.

• Bioactive complexes, which are colonies of bacteria, work effectively, eliminate odor and are environmentally friendly. However, at temperatures below +4° C, microorganisms die, so it is impossible to use such products in winter.
• Among chemicals Preferred are nitrate oxidizers, which are non-toxic and do not pose a danger to people, pets and plants. They are usually used in the cold season.

Important: To eliminate odors from the pit, which will occur if special preparations are not used, ventilation of the cesspool in a private house is required. Plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 60 cm, which are installed in the upper part of the pit, are suitable for its installation.

Proper arrangement of a cesspool in a private home will allow you to safely dispose of wastewater with minimal effort and without significant expense. In this case, the container will not be a source of unpleasant odor.

Cesspool in a private house: diagram, do-it-yourself device, video

Cesspool in a private house, diagram, device with filtering and storage tanks. Materials, features various designs. Selection of location and volume, cleaning.

Do-it-yourself cesspool - review and comparison of design options

For the citizens, the problems of drainage and disposal of household waste are solved by municipal services, but adherents of free-living country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order the installation of a bulk septic tank or local treatment station on the site, then a summer resident can easily build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. It will cope with the important sanitary function perfectly, and will not require the allocation of too much money for arrangement.

The simplest and most cost-effective options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple hole dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers into the ground. Nowadays, such “reservoirs” for collecting and partially filtering wastewater are installed only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

A simple cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes completely prohibited by sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanied by the imposition of administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest container lined with boards for a toilet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really doesn’t want to spend money on building a structure, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be put to good use. You just need to lay the tires in the dug pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is located outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire placed on top to connect the sewer pipeline. Afterwards, the pit around the home-made treatment plant is filled with soil, and a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a hatch for pumping is laid on top.

The owner of N-number of worn-out tires can use them to build an excellent reservoir for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorption structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more complex in technical aspects installations with forced stimulation of wastewater movement inside and with biological and chemical treatment methods.

Violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of a cesspool is unacceptable

Containers without bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the “people's” cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the wastewater, having undergone purification by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken brick and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorption option is considered the most economical; moreover, the construction of a pit of this type can easily be carried out by a contractor who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. Another saving: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, there is much less need to call sewer trucks.

Structural diagram of a cesspool without a bottom - wastewater is filtered through crushed stone

The absorbent type of pit is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. The land will not be able to process and accept a large volume. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as a 100% effective procedure, which means that wastewater from the absorption pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste water tanks

Their name contains a direct hint indicating the main design feature. Essentially, these are closed containers made of water-tight concrete, brickwork, plastic, and gas silicate blocks that require constant emptying after filling. Sealed structures will ensure the complete absence of odors typical of drains, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not suitable for building a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container in the ground to collect wastewater, connect a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call the vacuum cleaners to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank would be to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very compelling argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with sewage; there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level; if the level exceeds the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are more complex structures that not only deep cleaning, but also processing wastewater into fertilizer valuable for gardeners. Most often, they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical purification occurs, and in subsequent chambers specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with an overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the area. But in order to make a septic tank with an overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The operating principle of a three-chamber septic tank is based on multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected wastewater is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers finer purification is performed

If you don’t mind the effort, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of “bald”, but not worn-out tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. To install a septic tank made from tires, you do not need a powerful concrete foundation, just a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a thickness of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed.

• To increase the volume of the created reservoir, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
• A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made of tires; its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same size of tires. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of tire rubber.
• The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to create a monolithic concrete cylinder.

At the top you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Design of a cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

• The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Let's consider the stages of installation of several design options.

Absorbing

Owners of small country estates who decide to make a basic sewer system with their own hands most often choose this option. The simplest design and the ability to not resort to the services of sewer trucks too often are attractive. The walls can be made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by placing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, and it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but to install them you will need a crane

1. It is necessary to dig a shaft-type pit, the diameter of which will be approximately 80 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. You will need 3 rings.
2. Along the perimeter, leaving the central part free, you need to make concrete screed, it will serve as a supporting base for the rings.
3. It is necessary to drill holes in the lower ring every 10 cm so that purified water can penetrate beyond the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is 5 cm.

Important. The depth of the underground structure should not exceed a limit of 3 m, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the dense silty sediment that has settled at the bottom of the pit.

The constructed “well” should be approximately a meter deep with sand, gravel, broken bricks, and crushed stone mixed with soil.

About a meter of the lower part of the absorbing sewer structure must be filled with a “folk” filtering composition: sand, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick, as in the figure

Advice. In order to improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to supplement the filter well with a sealed storage tank located slightly above it with an overflow.

Schematic design of a homemade septic tank: from a sealed cleaning container, wastewater is poured into an absorption cesspool, from where purified water penetrates into the filtration field

Sealed

The construction principle is similar, only there is no need to form holes for the infiltration of treated wastewater and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. To prevent the reinforcement from “drowning” in the concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and secured on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; the outside of a homemade sewerage facility can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, lined with brick or gas silicate blocks, or a monolithic container can be made by pouring concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than installing concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid either in a circle or by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “mature” before starting masonry, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the masonry period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of sewer pipes. The connection point is located below the freezing level recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of wastewater

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the average consumer in mind. That is, finding the necessary kit is not difficult at all.

1. The first thing is to dig a pit according to the standard pattern for all pits.
2. With his own hands, the owner will need to first make a cushion at the bottom of the shaft from a mixture of concrete and gravel. It should strengthen for a week, during which time the original foundation should be lightly “irrigated” with water.
3. Then they order delivery of the kit by car with a manipulator for sequential installation of the bottom, rings, and lid.

A ready-made set of rings and concrete floors for the rapid construction of a cesspool

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of design that meets your needs. Which costs are more important, what is best to save on, is up to the owner and contractor to choose, and knowledge of the design differences will help make the right decision.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands - design options and installation steps

Types and design of cesspools. Do-it-yourself installation and arrangement.

If you are organizing your own plot and home, it is important to consider how to create a cesspool with your own hands. It is a reservoir where waste enters. There are several varieties that are used different materials. IN budget options long used ones are used car tires. Modern septic tanks are also used.

The choice depends on the budget, the characteristics of the soil and the frequency of living in the house. It's much easier if you live in country house only in the warm season. If this is year-round permanent housing, you need to correctly count on heavy loads.

Types of cesspools and their choice

Cesspools are of the following types:

Which option should I choose? For rare use, choose a hole from the bottom if the soil allows. Sealed tanks avoid unpleasant odors and contamination, but they are expensive to maintain and will require monthly (and in the case of dishwashers and hot tubs, weekly) cleaning. The septic tank is environmentally friendly and has no special contraindications. Having decided, we move on to studying the technology of creating cesspools.

We take into account the rules and regulations of the arrangement

To achieve a certain level of security, you need to think through all the nuances. Otherwise, there is a risk of creating a threat to the landscape, the structure of a private house, and the health of residents. The following important points are taken into account:

• The well with water must be at least 30 m from the pit. The level of the pit should be lower. This avoids problems with drinking water contamination.
• If there is a large amount of waste, it is not allowed to make a hole without a bottom. The limit established by the standards is 1 cubic meter of waste per day.
• The pit should be in a place where a sewer truck can easily drive up. The distance should be closer than 4 m. Depth - no more than 3 m, otherwise the hose will not be enough to pick up all the waste.
• It is necessary to achieve optimal tightness of closing the lid. Especially important for the winter period. It is recommended to use insulation.

Compliance with state sanitary standards will avoid serious problems. Made independently, the cesspool should not harm the soil, have leaks in inappropriate places, or have an unpleasant odor.

Eternal cesspool: creation technology

There is a technology for an eternal cesspool. Durability of use is achieved by special arrangement of the pit. In accordance with the technology, it is made without a bottom. It is sprinkled with medium-sized gravel. You need to take care of creating such a pit in advance. The overflow is connected to the sewerage system. The “eternity” of such cesspools is determined by the selected materials. The purified liquid goes into the ground through a crushed stone sand filter. Residues are processed by microorganisms. This is an environmentally friendly and effective way.

Making blocks from tires - the simplest option

Used car tires are used in the sewer system and the creation of cesspools, eliminating waste. various kinds costs. A cesspool in a private house is made with your own hands according to the following scheme:

• digging a pit;
• tires are connected to each other using waterproof glue;
• joints are completely sealed;
• the bottom is not made, instead the above filter is created.

Creating a pit with concrete rings

Let's figure out how to make a cesspool in a private house. To create a sewer system, effort will be required, but the option with a simple absorption pit (with concrete rings) is the easiest and is often used in dachas. You can build a cesspool according to this scheme:

• Concrete rings are purchased in the amount of 3 pieces;
• a pit is dug with a depth not exceeding 3 m, the diameter is 80 cm greater than that of reinforced concrete rings;
• the central axis must remain free, a concrete screed is made around the perimeter (base for the rings);
• holes are drilled in the lower ring: the diameter of each is 5 cm, made 10 cm apart;
• the bottom is filled with a filtering composition of crushed stone, sand, gravel, broken brick - about 1 meter;
• the outside of the pit is filled with the same composition;
• a plate with two holes is installed - for the pipe and the hatch, through which pumping will be carried out.

There is another scheme: creating tank walls from brick or gas silicate blocks. But this will require a lot of effort. A concrete sewer pit requires a crane to install concrete rings. The choice is yours. Another option: a cesspool in a country house is made using metal barrels. Service life reaches 60 years.

How to create an airtight structure?

To create airtight conditions, the same steps are performed, but there is no need to make holes in the bottom. On the contrary, it needs to be concreted and strengthened. A concrete mesh is laid on the bottom in advance. The walls are sealed inside with bitumen, and outside are coated with clay. The same is done in the case when the walls are made of brick. They can be plastered.

Please note: before you build a hole, do not forget about the hole that serves to connect the sewer pipe. It is done below the freezing level, which is determined by the weather service. To do this you need to make inquiries. The supply pipeline must be inclined so that the waste moves towards the constructed pit naturally.

Ready tanks

Does installing a cesspool in a private house seem like a difficult task for you? It can be simplified by using ordinary wastewater tanks. Then all that remains is to install the pipeline at an angle and dig a pit. Order a ready-made tank, it is buried in the ground. If necessary, it is strengthened; a concrete base is used for cesspools.

A few words about the features of the process

Cesspools take about a week to dig if you do it yourself. Excavation work may take longer. The walls should be smooth, the foundation pit itself should be square or rectangular. The area around the tank helps provide additional protection from groundwater. Before making a cesspool correctly, it is important to take care of the pipeline. Trees must not be in the way.

Let's sum it up

We looked at several options for sewerage installations for a private home. There are many options for arranging a cesspool; there are expensive multi-chamber septic tanks with a powerful cleaning system. The basic scheme is the same: you need to prepare for difficult earthworks and dig a pit - then half the job is done. You need to be patient, and then you will understand that you can make a hole on your own!

Work of plumbing, bathroom and toilet country house requires the installation of a competent wastewater collection and disposal system. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewerage system, it is enough to obtain permission and make a connection into the communal system, then if there are no benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of wastewater disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently, there are options for solving this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option is still a cesspool - a structure that has been tested by more than one generation of homeowners. A waste tank of this type is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design Features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be classified as a filtration (absorption) drainage structure or a sealed sewer tank. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where it is decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of domestic wastewater from the site.

The costs of constructing a cesspool will pay off handsomely: this structure will provide an urban level of comfort even far from civilization

Many online sources claim that the choice of one design or another depends on the daily amount of waste discharged. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools for volumes of more than one cubic meter per day. We consider this statement to be only partially true. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewer truck will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m is spent on deepening the sewer line. Therefore, about 3 m of usable height remains. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5–6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration design will allow you to increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out is completely no different from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that may hinder the construction of absorption pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large amount of wastewater can pollute aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features, allow the construction of any type of pit, then the filtration system will be unrivaled.

A feature of absorbent sewer collectors is the presence of a drainage layer

Sewage pits without pumping are characterized by the presence of side walls and a floor slab, while instead of a bottom, the structure is equipped with a crushed stone cushion. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the ground. Often the walls of absorbent structures have perforations, which increases the absorption capacity of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewage system in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. A hatch is built in the upper part of the structure, through which the level of wastewater is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering sewage pits

The advantages of absorption containers are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operational interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses significantly increases. However, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

• limited daily volume of wastewater;
• impossibility of building a structure with high level groundwater;
• low degree of wastewater treatment;
• decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
• unpleasant odors around the building.

Despite these disadvantages, unsealed cesspools are attractive due to their simplicity and the ability to use materials that are often left over during the construction of a country house.

Factory plastic container- one of the most durable and simple ways sewerage installations

Sealed sewer pits do not have the disadvantages of absorption structures, but require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the containers are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for hermetic structures the standards are more democratic, although they require thinking through access routes and arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents can improve the efficiency of waterproof drainage structures. Bacteria process sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

Selection of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, capacious iron containers without a bottom or old ones are used car tires. In a word, any suitable materials will do for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures are used, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, you can build a pit in the traditional way - from brick or reinforced concrete rings, concrete its bottom and ensure the walls are waterproof.

Brick

Brick absorption pit

A waste tank made of brick is one of the most inexpensive and simplest options, especially if it is necessary to build a pit without pumping. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps, which increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the ability to build a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorption wells are not without the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - silting and negative influence on ecology. In addition, masonry bricks quickly collapse under aggressive operating conditions, which causes short term service life of filtration systems is about 20 years.

From car tires

Used truck tires are a cheap and durable material for waste disposal without pumping out.

Build a drainage system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house with minimal costs possible by using car tires as a building material for a septic tank. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and arrange a filter layer of crushed stone at its bottom. Tires installed on top of each other form durable design, preventing the walls of the structure from collapsing.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of contamination environment wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid siltation and reduced system efficiency.

To increase the filtration capacity of the cesspool, spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as perforations in concrete and brick pits, increasing the area of ​​contact between wastewater and the ground.

Made from monolithic reinforced concrete

Concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures

This type of cesspool is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, constructed by pouring concrete mixture into an installed sheathing. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow this design to be called the best. Currently, this method of construction is being crowded out ready-made kits from reinforced concrete rings and covers.

Made from concrete rings

Depending on the tightness requirements, concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls

Arranging a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partially classified as an inexpensive option. This is due to the fact that you will have to not only buy building materials, but also hire equipment for loading and transportation to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy reinforced concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms (later we will tell you how, if you wish and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). However, this option is the simplest and most durable way to construct both absorbent cesspools and hermetic structures. Currently, reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are produced, which are ideal for the construction of sewage collectors without pumping.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from the old one metal barrel you can build a filtration pit that will ensure the functionality of the country house sewer system

The easiest way to make a waste pit is to bury a plastic or metal container of suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to obtain both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first is the absence of the bottom of the container and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filtration pad.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. In order for the operation of the sewer system to take place without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewer well and consider its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

Size of sewerage structure

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), operating mode (regular or periodic use), soil type and other factors.

To calculate a sewer tank without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

• volume of wastewater per family member when using the bathroom, toilet and washing machine taken equal to 200 l. Depending on specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 l;
• calculations are based on the maximum daily wastewater flow;
• when determining the size of a cesspool, its volume must accommodate at least three times the daily amount of waste. That is, for a family from three people the container must hold at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, taking into account that the depth must be measured from the point of entry of the sewer line into it. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater vertical dimensions(length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the wastewater is purified by anaerobic bacteria and goes into the ground, the size of the absorption system will be sufficient for effective operation.

When determining the volume of a filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams allow water to pass through perfectly, while clay or loamy soil requires a larger area of ​​contact between wastewater and the soil, and therefore an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a sewer storage tank, the same averaged data on drainage are used as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping in days. For example, if you plan to pump out a pit once every two weeks, then for a family of three people its volume should be 150x3x14=6.3 cubic meters.

Most sewer trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-volume wastewater tank is necessary

Before making a final decision about the sizes wastewater treatment plant, be sure to consult with utility services or individuals who pump out sewerage. The fact is that the volume of most sewage disposal machines is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5–8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to provide additional space if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a site for construction

When choosing a site for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you will get a rather long list. However, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since failure to comply with them is fraught with both ineffective work and inconvenience of sewerage maintenance, as well as administrative liability under the current Code of Administrative Offenses.

Restrictions on choosing a location for a cesspool

1. You should not place the cesspool at the very bottom of the site to avoid flooding or rainwater.
2. It is prohibited to install filtration structures if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
3. The hole must be removed:
   from the foundations of buildings - no less than 10 m;
   from fences - more than 1 m;
   from roads and trees - 4 m.
4. The distance from sources of drinking water should be:
   for clay soils - at least 20 m;
   for loams - at least 30 m;
   for sands and sandy loams - from 50 m.
5. When choosing a location for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of access by a sewage truck.

Drawings. Photo gallery

At the final stage of designing a sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up, indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of sewer lines and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure to be so elementary that its design does not require “extraordinary body movements,” we recommend drawing up at least a simple sketch diagram. Believe me: it is better to correct mistakes made with a pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapted to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration wastewater structure Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a sewer pit with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for making sealed and filtration cesspools

Having decided on the location of the drainage hole and done necessary calculations, begin excavation work. If the sewer system is installed using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then prepare a pit of the required dimensions. It is dug by hand or using earth-moving equipment.

An excavator will save time and effort when preparing a pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earthmoving equipment

For the construction of a sewer collector, the easiest way is to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on a site is impossible due to a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines are in the way, etc. In this case, they use old way, which our grandfathers used. One of the rings is put in place, climbed inside and, using a shovel with a short handle, the soil is removed, gradually removing the soil from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is flush with the site, install the next ring and continue to remove soil until the desired depth is reached.

Required tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, before starting construction, prepare bricks, concrete rings or a prefabricated reinforced concrete structure with a lid, tires from trucks, boards for formwork, etc. In addition, the following tools and materials will be needed:

• cement and sand for preparing mortar;
• small rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
• metal rod or reinforcement for making a concrete cover;
• a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
• waterproofing;
• buckets and container for preparing the solution;
• trowel, mason's hammer;
• bubble level, cord and plumb line;
• shovels and bayonet shovels.

If you are planning a large volume of concrete work, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which you can borrow from friends or rent.

Brick building for a private house

For the construction of the sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burnt material, which is considered defective in production. Silicate products are not recommended for use due to their low resistance in a humid environment.

The work order is as follows:

1. After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-centimeter layer of crushed stone or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The last option is carried out with the installation of an armored belt that strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.

   Arrangement of the filtration layer

2. Perform wall masonry. Depending on the project, the structure may have a round, square or rectangular shape. The sealed container is laid completely, with all seams carefully filled. sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping, bricks are laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.

   This is what the masonry of an absorption-type sewer pit looks like

3. Around the sewer pipeline, it is better to make a window with a side and top gap between the pipe and the masonry of 5 to 10 cm. Such a solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.
4. The walls are laid out to a height below 20–30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the ceiling. To do this, install a sealed sheathing with a hole for a hatch on the pit, construct an armored belt, and fill the slab with concrete mortar. The frame and hatch cover can be purchased or made from scrap materials: pieces of metal corners, profile pipes and steel sheet.

   Covering a sewer tank with a hatch for pumping out wastewater

5. The slab is covered with a layer of soil and compacted.
   In regions with harsh climate the distance from the slab to the zero level of the site is increased to 50–60 cm. This allows you to fill the hole with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewage system from freezing in winter.

Video: secrets of building a brick pit

Sump pit made of reinforced concrete rings

Today, manufacturers offer rings in a wide range. You must understand that for the diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, you will have to use lifting equipment, therefore the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands, products measuring Ø1×0.89 m are available. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and lid. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table standard sizes reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Instructions for the progress of work:

1. By analogy with a brick structure, a filter crushed stone layer is built at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured, or a factory reinforced concrete base slab is installed (if an excavator is used). At the same time, they must monitor the correctness of the work at the construction level.
2. 3–4 rings are placed on top of each other, reaching the top level. If necessary required height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.

   When installing rings large diameter You can’t do without lifting equipment

3. Using a hammer drill, holes are made in the concrete wall for sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.
4. If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a solution, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed using bitumen and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner surface is plastered.

   The design of imported rings will ensure the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation

5. Install or make your own floor slab.

   When purchasing concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs.

6. The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction from concrete rings

Concrete pit made of monolithic reinforced concrete

A drainage well made of monolithic concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable structures. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit by hand. This will allow the sheathing to be installed on only one side and will reduce concrete consumption. Construction work carried out in stages.

1. The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted, after which a concrete screed with a thickness of at least 10 cm with internal reinforcement is made.
2. After the concrete has set side surfaces pits are covered waterproofing material. This will avoid soil shedding during concrete work.

   Installation of armored belt and pouring the base

3. At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical reinforced belt is mounted and the formwork is installed. It should be said that a wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be sufficient for a pit of any size.
   If there are not enough boards for making sheathing, you can use sliding formwork.

   Design of adjustable (sliding formwork)

4. Mortgages are installed to create openings for installing sewer pipes.
5. When pouring concrete, be sure to bayonet or compact it. This will remove air bubbles from the mixture and increase the strength of the structure.

   A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, but will require the use of double-sided formwork

6. Sewage pipes are installed into the inlet openings and ventilation is installed.
7. Cover the top slab with soil and install a hatch.

   Covering the cesspool. Pay attention to the outlet of the ventilation riser - for sealed waste systems this is a necessity

Video: drainage pit made of reinforced concrete

DIY cesspool made from vehicle tires

To make a waste pit, tires from heavy trucks and buses are used. Considering the width of the wheels, at least 8–10 tires will be required. The pit can be dug either manually or with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the external dimensions of the tires. This will make their installation easier and will make it possible to increase the throughput of the absorbent system. In some sources you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of tires to increase the internal volume of the hole. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since it will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude that the area of ​​contact of the liquid with the ground has priority over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

According to the installation method, the option with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing 5-6 spacers between two adjacent tires, for which you can use red brick. The gaps between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purpose, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick fragments, after which a ceiling is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system

You can increase the absorption capacity of holes without pumping by installing a drainage pipe with a height of more than 1 m and a diameter of at least 20 cm, which is dug halfway into the ground. Holes with a diameter of no more than 5 cm are made in its hidden part. Of course, the best material will not be metal, but plastic.

Video: tire pit in a country house

Decoration of cesspool installation sites. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil that is used to cover the roof of the cesspool, it is not difficult to hide it from view. To do this, shrubs are planted above the sewer, a flower bed is arranged, or a lawn is sown. To decorate sewer hatches, wooden and stone elements are used, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps you can glean from our photo gallery interesting idea or use it on your site ready-made solution.

Garden stand mounted on the pit cover Lawn Decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration with natural materials Even a ventilation riser can be decorated gracefully and beautifully Aerobatics - use the place and create a real masterpiece landscape design Installing a flowerpot original form with flowers Decoration with artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of cesspool designs allows you to build a wastewater facility in full accordance with your needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary standards and rules, especially as they relate to the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what will go to our children and grandchildren.

Owners of country houses often have to master the intricacies of how to make a cesspool. This design allows you to solve the problem of wastewater disposal in places where there is no public sewerage system.

Sanitary regulations require that the wastewater facility be located:

• 1 or more meters from the fence separating neighboring land plots;
• 12 meters (no closer) from a residential building;
• 30 meters from the source of water intake (if you plan to build a hole without a bottom with your own hands).

Wastewater facility

Competent calculation of the geometric parameters of the design for collecting wastewater is carried out taking into account the following characteristics:

• Number of people using water in their home year-round. One person consumes up to 180 liters of liquid per day. If 3 people live in a house, it is recommended to build a drainage pit of 18 or more cubic meters.
• The distance between the top of the sewer structure and the ground surface. This value should be at least 1 m. If you build a pit without taking this requirement into account, the likelihood of sewage flowing beyond the cesspool structure increases, which will lead to poisoning of the ground and the appearance of an unpleasant odor in your area.
• Type of soil. When there are rocks in the ground that do not allow water to pass through well, the volume of the sewer pit is taken so that it is higher than the monthly wastewater norm. If the soil allows water to pass through without problems, the volume taken is approximately 40% of the amount of drainage. This is important to know for those who want to learn how to make a cesspool.

Important pro tip! Do not make a cesspool more than 3 m deep. As it fills, you will have to call sewer trucks to pump out the wastewater. Effective removal of waste is precisely ensured at a depth of up to 3 m.

If about 1 cubic meter of waste flows into a hole per day, it is quite possible to equip it in the simplest way - dig a small pit in the ground, coat its walls with clay and further strengthen it wooden planks. Such designs were previously widespread. They are built with their own hands even today.

It is clear that these types of pits do not meet the requirements of sanitary services. It is quite possible that you will even be issued an administrative penalty if you decide to build such a basic structure. Of course, no one needs this. It is better to equip a normal cesspool that will effectively cope with the tasks assigned to it. These include two types of structures:

1. Sealed tanks (pits with a bottom).
2. Absorbing structures without a bottom.

Wastewater facility

The easiest way to make the second holes with your own hands. In them, the wastewater (their liquid part) is filtered when passing through pieces of brick and gravel, which are poured at the bottom of the pit. The wastewater then goes into the ground. This system is easy to install. In addition, bottomless pits are rarely cleaned due to the infiltration of (partial) water into the soil.

Absorption structures are usually installed when the volume of wastewater is relatively small. Such cesspools are good for houses where there are no washing machines, dishwashers, bathtubs, and so on.

In other cases, it is recommended to install sealed tanks. They are closed containers from which wastewater does not enter the ground. Such tanks are built from gas silicate and concrete products, plastic, and brick. The disadvantage of these pits is the need to frequently call sewer trucks to pump waste out of a closed container; the advantage is the complete absence of unpleasant “odors.”

We build a drain structure with our own hands - step-by-step instructions

Let's figure out how to properly make a cesspool. All work is best done according to the following scheme:

1. Dig a pit with the required dimensions. This operation will go quickly if you hire an excavator. But the cost of renting special equipment is high. Therefore, you can dig the hole by hand using a shovel.
2. Leave about one and a half cubic meters of soil (we will use it to backfill the cesspool after all work is completed), and take out the rest of the soil. Fertile top layer soil can be poured into the garden.
3. Concrete the bottom of the hole and wait 10–12 days until the mixture becomes as strong as possible. Concrete may not be used. But experts advise spending your time and energy on arranging such a bottom.
4. Lay out the walls with bricks. The masonry may not be of very high quality - it will be hidden from prying eyes, the main thing is that it reliably restrains the soil from crumbling. The corners of the masonry must be tied, and the bricks should be installed in a checkerboard pattern. This way the liquid part of the wastewater will be sucked into the ground more efficiently.

A reliable ceiling must be installed on the completed masonry. This is done by hand like this:

1. Dig in soil from all sides of the brickwork (approximately 0.2 m).
2. You make it either from profiled sheets.
3. Install the reinforcement frame. Tie the rods with wire, optimal distance between structural elements – 10–15 cm.
4. Fill the floor with concrete. It is advisable to bayonet the supplied mixture with a shovel, then the reinforcement frame will be well filled with the solution.
5. You wait about a month for the ceiling to harden.
6. Remove the formwork supports, lay out its walls with regular bricks, and plaster them on the outside. Additionally, you can treat the walls with bitumen to prevent moisture from the atmosphere from entering the pit.
7. You fill the structure you made with your own hands above the hatch with soil, compact the soil, and level it.

So we figured out how to properly make a cesspool. Please note that you do not need to have any special skills to perform such an operation with your own hands. The whole procedure is carried out quite simply, and its high labor costs are fully compensated by the low cost of the design.

One of the main tasks that arises before starting country house construction, - pad engineering communications. Without them, you cannot achieve even the minimum level of comfort. How to make a drainage pit (septic tank) with your own hands? This is a question many homeowners ask. In the absence of a central sewer system, it is necessary for the drain to work around the clock and uninterruptedly.

Choosing material for building a septic tank

From building materials, used for a septic tank, depends on the cost of the drainage pit itself, as well as your labor costs. The traditional and completely justified options are:

Septic tank from plastic tank and plastic components.

Prefabricated septic tank made of reinforced concrete designs.

Drain pit made of monolithic concrete using metal inlets and outlets.

Drainage structure made of brick.

Choosing volume future drainage pit, focus on tank capacity of the sewer truck. You will have to call her periodically to pump out wastewater. The volume of the septic tank must be equal to or a multiple of the volume of the “barrel”. Then you won’t have to order cleaning several times a year.

If in the house you are planning live seasonally, then wastewater disposal is a solvable problem. You need to make the most primitive cesspool from any sealed container. For a family from 3-4 person its volume should be no less 1,5-2 m³. If there is no such container, you can line the hole in the ground with red fire brick. Schemes of simple drainage structures are shown in the picture above.

But when permanent residence such sewerage arrangement no good. Why - now you will understand. Family life requires the daily use of large volumes of water. These are baths, showers, dishwashing, wet cleaning, laundry, natural needs.

Calculation of water consumption is always based on maximum consumption, and this 180-280 liters per day for one household. That is, a group of 4 -x a person spends per day 0,5-1 m³ of water or up to 30 m³ per month. Based on this, even a large drainage hole in 15-20 m³ must be cleaned 1-2 once a month.

Such a sewer will deplete your family budget. In addition, the cleaning procedure itself is specific and rare owners have the desire to perform it too often. We are talking about unpleasant odors that can spread throughout the entire area.

Sometimes improvement A drainage pit is carried out by creating holes in the ground so that dirty water flows out through them, filtering naturally. But this method of disposal has many disadvantages, including prohibited by sanitary standards. Therefore, it is necessary to equip a septic tank with natural purification of liquid.

Fundamental difference a septic tank from a cesspool consists of the fact that in the first there are leaks anaerobic processes of organic matter decomposition.

Particulate matter will linger at the bottom the first chamber, and the second is used for biological processing dirty water with putrefactive bacteria. The number of cameras may be large, but the principle of operation itself will remain similar to that shown in the figure above.

First let's decide on water consumption in the house, based on data tables:

Minimum height there must be a septic tank not less than 1.2 meters, otherwise solid suspensions will not settle densely at the bottom of the drainage pit.

In the picture you see a diagram single-chamber septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings with a volume 2 m³. You can make such a cesspool for your home with your own hands.

Inlet pipe must be above the water level by 5-7 centimeters. This will prevent a hydraulic short-circuit between the inlet and outlet pipes. Both pipes must be immersed in liquid for 30-35 centimeters.

Bottom of pipes should be made open, and these ends should be brought above the wastewater level to 20 centimeters so that gas does not enter the pipes, which will be released during the fermentation of putrefactive bacteria.

Channels between both concrete rings The septic tank should be located within 30-60 centimeters relative to the water level. If the channel located between the chambers is lower, then large suspensions will begin to fall into the small chamber. If the channel is higher, then fractions that float on the surface may enter this chamber.

For a septic tank, even the simplest, it is necessary to provide exhaust gases to the outside (ventilation pipe in the diagram above), and also hatch for pumping out liquid(possibly wooden).

Configure cameras the drainage pit can be used in different ways, since their shape and location do not affect on the quality of sewage water treatment. You just need to follow following proportions: a large chamber should occupy 2/3 from the entire volume of the pit.

Perfect form for a septic tank - round. Such a decision requires 10-15 % less building materials. In addition, the “cylindrical” pit is stronger because it copes better with the force of soil pressure. For cladding and strengthening walls better to use brick.

Water in the hole doesn't freeze, since fermentation processes raise the temperature. But cooling the liquid on the surface inhibits the activity of bacteria that clean sewage. Therefore, the upper part of the shallow septic tank is still it is recommended to insulate. At least half the depth of soil freezing in the region.

Insulation can act expanded clay, which is covered with a layer thickness of 25-40 centimeters, or foam boards PSB-25 thickness from 5 to 10 centimeters.