How to install a toilet with your own hands: installation steps and useful tips. Replacing a toilet with dismantling the old one: preparation, fastening and connection How to install a toilet in an apartment with your own hands

The toilet has long become an integral feature of a comfortable apartment or house. Gone are the “latrines”. Now available for purchase in construction supermarkets and online stores huge assortment plumbing fixtures: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden tanks, wall-hung, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, you can install any equipment yourself.

Do I need to install the toilet myself?

Of course, you can call a specialist from any service organization you like to install the toilet, be it Management Company or an office offering installation services on an outsourcing basis. However (at least for the most common toilet models), installing such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a short step-by-step instruction. In addition, understanding all the intricacies of installing toilets will help you monitor the work of the specialists involved and allow you to detect hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.

Types of toilets

In large supermarkets, display cases with toilets sometimes take up several dozen linear meters. However, with all the diversity of the range, almost all toilet designs are no different from each other. Modern toilet consists of several main parts.

Actually bowls. It can be of various shapes (with or without a shelf), with different water flush technology (direct or circular), with different designs its attachment to load-bearing bases (floor-standing, suspended or corner), with various additional features (for example, with a built-in bidet and even heating).
Sewage from the toilet bowl, together with water from the flush tank, enters the sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line using various configurations of pipes and adapters.
Water for flushing sewage accumulates in cistern . This device can also have various installation options (attached directly to the toilet bowl or placed in a hidden way behind decorative partitions).

Typically, plumbing fixtures come with installation and operating instructions. But, nevertheless, some important nuances installation of such equipment is not described in the documents.

If you are not installing plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first stage of your work will be dismantling the old equipment.

Removing the old toilet yourself

Dismantling work looks simpler than installing equipment, but during its implementation some rules must be followed.

Step 1. Thoroughly clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest ones, for example, chlorine-containing ones (“Whiteness”). Before starting work, put on protective gloves and possibly safety glasses. Prepare a basin and rags to remove excess water.

Step 2. Turn off the water in the tank. On single lever shut-off valves When closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Drain the remaining water from the toilet tank.

Step 3. Disconnect the water supply hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may approach the reservoir from the bottom, side, or top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.

Step 4. We unscrew the screws that secure the toilet to the floor. In old houses, the bolts may become stuck tightly, so that they will have to be cut off or even the toilet bowl may be broken. You may have to remove the toilet from its attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Be patient and use pliers. If you intend to leave the old tiles on the floor, then be very careful - sharp and heavy fragments of the toilet bowl and excessive force when unscrewing the bolts can damage the ceramics.

Step 5. If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, it will be very easy to dismantle it. Pull the toilet towards you and remove the toilet outlet from the sewer contact pipe.

Now you have access to the toilet installation location. Let's skip the installation plastic sewer(noting that the location of the inlet neck of the sewer pipe under the toilet must correspond to the toilet outlet pipe) we will proceed immediately to installing a new plumbing fixture.

How to install a compact toilet with your own hands

To install a standard compact toilet, consisting of a bowl and a cistern, we carry out the operations in the following sequence.

Step 1. We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. If necessary, we clean it. To prevent the spread of odors, cover the neck with a rag or plastic wrap.

Step 2. We place the toilet on the floor. If there is some distance left from the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer neck, then measure it and buy a corrugated pipe of the appropriate size.

Step 3. The toilet may come with a “heel” - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it along the contour of the base.

Step 4. Carefully place the compact toilet in its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to the furniture, to the outlet neck of the sewer pipeline.

Step 5. We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the compact toilet and the location of future holes in the floor for mounting screws.

Step 6. We move the compact toilet to the side and start drilling holes.

In case you have The floor is already tiled, then her upper layer drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Next, the hole is deepened with an impact drill.
If the toilet is installed on wooden surface – holes are formed with a regular wood drill.
If you have it in your toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut in it until it has a solid overlap with a sharp knife.

Step 7. We install dowels into the drilled holes.

Step 8. We place the toilet base on the seat and screw the screws into the dowels. The perimeter of the toilet base can be treated with sealant to prevent moisture penetration.

Step 9. We remove the rag or polyethylene plug from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet outlet and the sewer. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with sealant.

Connecting the tank to the compact toilet

There are models of compact toilets in which the flush cistern is a separate element. In order to install the tank, you must perform the following operations.

Step 1. Select bolts for securing the drain tank. Perhaps the bolts that come with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, so it is better to use bolts with anti-corrosion coating(galvanized) or made from of stainless steel. There should also be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the entire structure. Sealing washers will also protect the toilet's ceramics from being damaged by bolts.

Step 2. We connect the flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are applied and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. We insert silicone sealing gaskets or use fum tape between the tank pipe and the hose and between the hose and the water supply outlet.

Important! After completing the installation of the toilet and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely harden.

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

The most common on the market following types hidden cisterns for toilets: mounted or attached. Depending on the model, select installation instructions.

Installing a hidden cistern for an attached toilet

We install the toilet on the floor as described above.
We install a drain tank in the prepared niche. Usually it is bolted on, like in a regular compact toilet.
Installing a frame for a decorative wall. Usually this metallic profile, on which sheets of drywall are fixed. The top of the gypsum board is covered with tiles.
When installing plasterboard sheets, we provide a hole for the outlet of the flush control system. When installing a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the tank body to the surface of the future decorative wall. Typically, such dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. Besides, in decorative wall It is necessary to provide an inspection hole for servicing the hidden tank.
We bring the control panel to the wall surface, carry out finishing decorative wall.

Installing a wall-hung toilet with a hidden bull

Installing such a design gives you an advantageous chance to remodel the bathroom space and use its space more efficiently. Installation wall hung toilet with a hidden tank is carried out with the creation additional wall which will hide everything engineering Communication. We proceed in the following sequence.

Step 1. We are creating a project for the future bathroom. The hidden tank has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing new wall. It may have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body or carried out some distance.

Moreover, when designing load-bearing structures future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation of a power frame that will support the wall-hung toilet. You can't get by with subtlety here. aluminum profile which is used for installation plasterboard partitions. The power structure is welded from a metal corner. But usually metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished metal structure is called an installation. The fonts on which the toilet will subsequently be mounted are attached to it.

Step 2. After drawing up the project, we begin welding work to form a support frame and build a frame from a profile under a plasterboard wall, or install a ready-made frame. The frame must have voids for installation of sewer pipes.

Step 3. We lay sewer pipes, bringing the inlet neck to the level of the outlet pipe of the wall-hung toilet. Do not forget that sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.

Step 4. We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it to the toilet drain water pipe. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface went beyond the level of the future decorative cladding plasterboard wall. We connect the supply hose to the drain tank. Then we “roughly” connect the wall-hung toilet and the hidden tank, putting on and fixing the toilet on the pins and connecting the pipelines for water delivery and drainage. Do not forget to check the functionality of the entire structure and the strength of its fastening before covering the frame with plasterboard.

Step 5. Remove the wall-hung toilet from the pins. We mount plasterboard sheets. Usually they are simply screwed with countersunk screws to the profile. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the toilet mounting fonts, for the water supply pipe and for draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are filled with putty. To facilitate the formation of holes, the wall-hung toilet comes with a special template, which shows all the main contours.

Step 6.On final stage work, a finishing coating, for example, tiles, is laid on the walls.

Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern

toilet with hidden cistern concealed cistern

Mounting a toilet on a pedestal

As stated above, toilets have different outlet pipe configurations. With a horizontal or inclined toilet outlet, the receiving sewer pipe is mounted at the same level as the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or inclined upward.

However, there are also models of toilets with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downwards. Due to this configuration, the sewer inlet pipe must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all houses. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?

There is a solution - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). A number of works need to be completed.

Lay the sewer inlet pipe. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal and, accordingly, the level of the toilet base are calculated.
After obtaining the required dimensions, we proceed to the construction of the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the inlet pipe of a toilet of this design can be located in the gap between the finished and rough wooden floor. When placing a direct flush toilet on a wooden base, sewer networks must be laid before the finished floor is laid.
On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built from bricks. Form a rectangle with a hole for the inlet of the receiving sewer pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, next to each other, filling everything inner space pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
The top of the brick pedestal is plastered and covered with a finishing coating, for example, tiles.
Next, we do it with direct outlet in the same way as described in the section about installing a regular floor-standing toilet.

Installing a corner toilet

There are models of toilets that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor-mounted or wall-mounted one only in that its cistern has a rear wall in the shape of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.

Installation technology corner toilet in principle, no different from installing a “straight” toilet of the appropriate design. The only thing that may cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is connecting the receiving sewer pipe. It must be installed in such a way as to ensure drainage Wastewater, possibly with a turn of the pipeline.

In addition, the design of flush-mounted toilets with a straight back wall also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, a wall is mounted in the corner of the room diagonally at the corner, behind which a hidden hanging tank is installed. This design can be located either at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, or at other angles, shaping the toilet space according to your wishes.

To learn more about the technologies self-installation toilet, watch the instructional video.

Video - DIY toilet installation

Plumbing equipment must be installed in compliance with building codes and regulations. Knowing this, many home craftsmen experience uncertainty in their abilities, and even real fear.

They turn to service companies for help, which demand decent sums of money for their services. But installing a toilet with your own hands is not at all as difficult as it might seem.

There are several ways to install plumbing, we will analyze each of them in detail.

The method of installing a toilet depends on the type of device and its design features. You can find two main types of equipment on sale; the technology for carrying out installation work will be completely different in each case. This:

Floor standing toilets. Installed directly onto the floor upon completion finishing works in room.
Wall mounted toilets. They are installed using special fasteners at a certain height from the floor level. Installation of equipment is carried out before the start of repair work.

The floor-standing toilet is installed directly on the floor covering. This is the most common type of equipment

Wall-mounted plumbing fixtures are installed using special installation structures onto which the system is attached.

Floor-standing equipment can be mounted in two ways:

internal, quite difficult to implement, but more aesthetically pleasing;
external, when fastening is carried out using special technological holes on the base of the device.

In addition, the method of installation of a plumbing fixture depends on the method of its connection to the sewer. There are three options:

Horizontal release. The device is connected to the sewer system exactly at a right angle.
Vertical release. The sewer socket for connecting the device must be in the floor.
Oblique release. Such equipment is connected to the drain pipe at a certain angle, most often its value is 45°.

Let's take a closer look at how to install a floor-standing toilet with your own hands.

Connecting the device to the sewer

To connect plumbing equipment to the sewer system, you can use various connecting elements:

Fan pipe. Shaped product from semi-porcelain, earthenware or porcelain. Quite difficult to install, it is used most often by professional craftsmen.
Plastic pipe. Used when installing equipment located fairly close to the sewer pipe.
Eccentric. A plastic part consisting of two pipes with offset centers. The special structure of the eccentric allows you to connect the toilet outlet and the sewer pipe even when the equipment is slightly displaced. The item is available in different sizes.
Corrugation. A flexible plastic device that allows you to connect any type of toilet with a sewer socket. In this case, the location of the riser or pipe, as well as the device itself, can be any. Ideal for self-installation of equipment.

Let's consider different ways connecting the toilet to the sewer.

Method #1: Fan pipe or plastic pipe

This fastening assumes that shaped elements connect the toilet outlet to the sewer socket. Please note that working with such elements on your own can be quite difficult, especially if for some reason it is not possible to move the toilet to the riser at the required distance.

In this case, you will have to use other connecting elements or invite specialists. If the sewer hole is conveniently located and the toilet fits it, you can do the work yourself.

Using plastic pipes, you can make any complex configuration necessary to connect the toilet. When installing such a system, do not forget about the special rubber seals

When installing a vertical or horizontal connection, it is important to use special rubber seals: cuffs, inserts, etc., which should be included with the connecting elements. The parts provide a reliable and tight connection, however, you can additionally use sealant for insurance.

We place the plumbing fixture at the connection point and insert its outlet part into the sewer socket, not forgetting about the seals and sealant.

After this, the toilet can be fixed to the floor.

If you decide to connect the toilet to the sewer using a waste pipe, you need to remember that the outlet of the equipment and the socket of the waste pipe must fit perfectly together. It is not possible to move the device

Method #2: Eccentric

When connecting to a sewer using an eccentric, it is not necessary to use a sealant, since the shape of the part provides the necessary tightness. We insert the outlet part of the eccentric cuff into the sewer socket. It is important that the diameter of the part is selected correctly.

The eccentric allows, if necessary, to move the toilet slightly relative to the riser, but this distance is small.

To be safe, you can still coat the joint with silicone sealant. We substitute the toilet and put the second end of the cuff on its outlet. The equipment can be fixed to the floor.

Method #3: Corrugation

The simplest of all methods, allowing, if necessary, to connect a riser and a toilet of any type. We wipe the corrugation with a rag. Apply generously with a wavy strip silicone sealant on the ribs of the gum, which will subsequently be hidden in the sewer pipe.

We carry out the same operation from the opposite edge of the corrugation, processing the area that will be placed on the neck of the toilet.

We insert the corrugation into the sewer socket and put its second end on the outlet of the equipment. We press the plastic firmly with our fingers, checking the reliability of the connection.

The easiest way to connect the toilet to the sewer is using corrugation. The element can be stretched and given the required shape, so any type of equipment can be connected without any problems

Installing the bowl of a floor-standing device

Depending on the method of attaching the toilet to the floor, the connection of the device to the sewer can be carried out before this moment or directly during this operation. Toilet installation begins with installing the bowl, which can be done in different ways.

Method #1: Installation with dowels

First, we prepare the base on which the equipment will be installed. The floor must be absolutely flat, without the slightest drop. Otherwise, the device will not stand up straight and will become loose during use. If you plan to lay ceramic tiles on the floor, you need to do this before starting installation work.

It is possible to tile an already installed toilet, but this is a very labor-intensive procedure that requires precise cutting of each tile. It is much easier to carry out all the necessary activities in advance.

In addition, for work we will need Consumables You will need to purchase drills for glass and concrete and silicone sealant.

When marking, hold the pencil strictly vertically to mark the point for the mounting hole as accurately as possible

Let's take a closer look external method mounting the device. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We start with fitting. We place the toilet on the base prepared for it and control the angle of inclination, the coincidence of the height of the sewer pipe and the neck, etc. If we find any inconsistencies, we quickly eliminate them.
We carry out markings. To do this, we first determine the central axis of the toilet. It is optimal if it passes through the center of the room. Using it as a guide, we install the device at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Take a marker and carefully trace the outline of the device. Strictly vertically insert the marker into the technological mounting holes and place marks under the holes.
Preparing holes for fasteners. We move the toilet to the side and, using a hammer drill or drill, make the necessary holes. If tiles are laid on the floor, first take a glass drill, after drilling through the cladding, change it to a concrete drill. Carefully clean the hole from dust and pour silicone into it. It will act as a waterproofing agent. Then we insert plastic dowels.
We install the toilet. We outlined the seat of the device in advance with a marker. We place a special rubber gasket on it or generously apply a layer of silicone, which will act as a gasket. We put the equipment in place and press it to the floor. We insert bushings into the mounting holes and carefully tighten the screws, fixing the plugs. Remove excess silicone with a damp finger or rubber spatula.

We tighten the fasteners very carefully. Excessive force may damage the equipment, which may cause cracks.

Device with internal fastening We'll install it a little differently. Before installing it, you must make sure that all outlets of the engineering systems are connected to the toilet. Installation is carried out as follows:

We attach the fastening system to the toilet body.
We carry out markings. We place the device in the place intended for it and trace the outline with a marker or a simple pencil. We remove the equipment and mark holes for fasteners inside the resulting contour, not forgetting that each connection is secured to the floor with two bolts
We make the necessary holes. On tiles we work first with a glass drill, then with a concrete drill. Pour sealant into the holes and install dowels.
We screw the fasteners to the floor with bolts. We take the toilet, place it on the installed mounts, and secure it with bolts through special side holes. There is no need to tighten the fasteners too much yet. It is possible that while connecting the device to engineering systems You will need to make some minor adjustments.

Watch the video for more details:

Method #2: glue installation

If in force various reasons The toilet bowl cannot be installed with dowels; installation can be done with glue. The method is only suitable for smooth floors. To carry out the operation you will need a high-quality adhesive composition. This can be liquid sealant, silicone glue or epoxy resin with various hardeners.

You can make such a composition yourself. To do this, take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy resin, heated to 50C, add 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer, stir well. Then pour in 35 parts of hardener and mix well again.

Add 200 parts of cement to the resulting mass and mix until a plastic, homogeneous mass is obtained.

We carry out installation work in the following sequence:

We carry out markings. We place the plumbing fixture in the place designated for it and trace the outline with a pencil.
Preparing the foundation. First of all, we thoroughly clean the floor and base of the toilet from possible contamination. To improve adhesion with the adhesive, you need to roughen the surface, so we clean it with emery cloth. Then degrease the base of the device and the floor with any solvent or acetone.
Following the manufacturer's instructions exactly, we prepare the adhesive for use.
Carefully apply glue to inner part the bottom of the toilet and inside the outline marked on the floor. The layer of composition should not be too large.
We put the toilet in place and press it firmly against the floor surface.

After we have glued the device, we need to wait until the glue is completely dry. This usually takes about 12 hours. During this time, the equipment should not be touched, much less sat on it.

Otherwise, it may move to the side and the mount will not be strong enough.

Before installing the toilet with glue, be sure to clean the base of the plumbing fixture and the floor underneath with sandpaper, creating a rough surface

Method #3: installation on taffeta (wooden gasket)

The method was developed for installing plumbing fixtures on wooden floors, but can also be used for other types of flooring. To properly install a toilet on taffeta, you need to perform the following operations:

We are preparing taffeta. This is the name of a gasket made of durable wood to which a plumbing fixture is attached. We cut it out of a board with a thickness of 2.8 to 3.2 cm. We thoroughly treat the workpiece with drying oil or any other anti-rotting solution. To ensure that the support post is securely attached to the floor, we fix anchors in it. The easiest way is to stagger nails into the part so that they protrude 2-3 cm from the board.
We make a recess in the floor to install the device. Its shape and size must match the taffeta. Fill the hole with cement mortar.
We turn the taffeta over with the anchors facing down and sink it into the cement. If done correctly, the board should be flush with the floor. We wait until the cement dries completely.
Let's start installing the equipment. We place the toilet on the taffeta and fix it with screws lubricated with graphite or grease so that they can be easily unscrewed later. Be sure to place rubber spacers under the screw heads to avoid damaging the ceramics.

In addition to traditional wooden taffeta, you can use a rubber backing. Suitable for these purposes sheet material thickness 5-15 mm.

It is quite possible to use an old rubber mat.

For taffeta, it is best to take durable wood such as ash or oak. Be sure to treat the part with drying oil or other composition that protects the wood from rotting

Installation of the cistern and connection to the water supply

After the equipment is secured, you can begin installing the drain tank. There are two varieties of this device; let’s look at the mounting features of each.

Installing a cistern on a toilet shelf

Such equipment is installed quite simply. In this case, it does not matter at all when the internal elements of the tank are installed: before or after mounting the devices on the shelf. IN general outline work is performed as follows:

We put the tank in place. First we take special rubber gaskets and lubricate them on both sides with silicone for better sealing.
We place the gaskets on the toilet shelf exactly above the drain holes and install the tank.
We fasten the shelf and tank with bolts. We wait until the silicone hardens. This will take 15-20 minutes.
We check the tightness of the resulting connection. To do this, pour water into the tank and see if there are any leaks. If shortcomings are identified, we eliminate them.

After we have installed the cistern, we proceed to installing its internal elements:

We connect the water supply coupling to the tank.
Attach a float valve to the coupling.
Screw on the overflow tube.
We install the water release lever.
Install the saddle and vertical valve.
Using a rod, we connect the water drainage mechanism and the vertical valve.
We fix the float valve.
We adjust the twist of the float elbow by setting the required angle. The smaller the angle, the less water will flow into the drain tank.

Don't forget to adjust the position of the saddle - many people forget about this point!

Before installing the flush tank on the toilet shelf, be sure to install special gaskets that provide the system with the necessary tightness

Design with a cistern fixed above the toilet. Its installation is carried out as follows:

After the plumbing fixture is installed, we bring it to drain pipe from the tank.
We fix the pipe to the toilet using a special coupling.
Taking into account the height of the drain pipe, we mark the mounting points for the tank on the wall.
We disconnect the pipe from the tank, and then install the equipment on the wall. We fix it securely. We put the drain pipe in place.

After the installation of the tank is completed, we proceed to installing its internal elements:

We mount the trigger lever.
We fix the vertical valve, seat and overflow mechanism.
We connect the vertical valve, overflow and trigger mechanism using a rod.
We bring a water pipe to the tank and secure it with a coupling, always using a rubber gasket.
We fix the float valve on the coupling.
We connect the twist of the float elbow to the valve at the desired angle.
Adjusting the position of the saddle.
We adjust the location of the coupling that connects the toilet and the drain pipe.

To connect the drain tank and water pipe we use flexible hose the required length.

After the connection to the water supply is completed, be sure to test the device. We fill the tank with water and rinse. We control the operation of all mechanisms. If problems are identified, we fix them immediately.

The installation height of a mounted tank can be very different. It depends on the model of plumbing equipment

Installation of the toilet lid

The last stage of installing a floor-standing toilet with your own hands is installing the seat and lid. This is a very simple operation. The seat comes with special fasteners; as a rule, they are made of plastic.

Such parts are very easy to unscrew and tighten. In addition, high humidity does not harm plastic elements.

Another plus is that the design with plastic fasteners moves less on the sanitaryware. We attach the lid to the toilet so that the fasteners fit into the grooves intended for them.

We move the entire structure forward and tighten the nuts tightly, thus fixing the seat.

To prevent the toilet lid and seat from sliding on the surface of the toilet, you need to tighten the fasteners well

Installing a toilet yourself is quite a task for a home handyman. It is important to correctly determine the type of device and, in accordance with this, select the best way installations.

It is important to carefully read the instructions from the equipment manufacturer, which describe the installation procedure in detail, and strictly follow them during the work process. If all these conditions are met, the equipment installed by yourself will work for a long time and without problems.

Manufacturers offer a wide selection of plumbing fixtures. Each model has its own and imposes certain requirements for the installation procedure. Installing a toilet yourself is possible, but only if you follow the manufacturer's recommendations. We invite you to familiarize yourself with existing species, the order and features of the work, so that self-installation was carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.

In order to correctly place the key ones, you should prepare a drawing to scale on which the plumbing fixtures will be located taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards. You can create a comfortable layout by adhering to the following recommendations:

The area in front of the toilet must be at least 60 cm long;
A free space of at least 25 cm wide should be provided on the sides of the toilet;
The area in front of the sink should not be narrower than 70 cm;
The bidet and toilet should be fixed at a distance of at least 35 cm;
It should be fixed at a height of 60÷80 cm above the floor surface, and - 95 cm.

The recommendations given are relevant for those for whom it is enough to adhere to standard standards, principles of practicality and comfort. In apartment buildings, the placement of plumbing fixtures is regulated by SNiP, which are developed taking into account the safe operation of communications. When planning to do the installation yourself, you should definitely familiarize yourself with these standards.

Basics of choosing the right toilet for your home

When choosing a suitable model, you should take into account the features. Noteworthy:

The area of the room, which affects the dimensions of the purchased plumbing fixtures;
Availability, geometric parameters and location of external. It should be taken into account how far it will be located from the intended installation location of the toilet cistern;
Location of the sewer pipe;
Release angle. The best option is to install a model with an oblique outlet. If the measurement shows a slight coincidence, you should purchase a special adapter—a drain corrugation—along with the plumbing fixtures.

Manufacturers offer plumbing fixtures various configurations, which has its own fastening features. The division can be made into floor-mounted and wall-mounted models. To install the latter you need less space, and they have a more attractive appearance. This is a suitable option for. Floor-standing models are more reliable and practical.

hammer;
drill (perforator);
yardstick;
marker for marking;
adjustable wrench or set;
pliers;
screwdriver.

It is also worth preparing:

FUM tape;
flexible hose;
corrugation;
silicone sealant with a gun.

Removing an old toilet

When dismantling, you should follow the instructions in accordance with which the installation of once new plumbing was previously carried out. Do-it-yourself toilet replacement begins with the following work:

shut off the water supply inside the drain tank;
drain the water inside the tank;
unscrew the tank fasteners. If there is a large thickness of lime deposits or there is rust, use a screwdriver to fix the bolt head and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench;
Having removed the barrel of the tank, unscrew the fasteners securing the product;
disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If cement coating was previously used during installation, use a chisel to chip off the cement;
Drain the remaining water from the toilet and set it aside.

Advice! After dismantling, the hole in the sewer pipe should be closed with a cloth plug to prevent it from clogging.

Preparing a new toilet for installation

Having decided to do the installation yourself, you should figure out how to assemble the toilet. Any model includes two components: a bowl and a drain tank. At the preparation stage, these parts should be connected to each other using the fasteners included in the delivery kit.

First, assemble the drain tank. To do this, a drain mechanism and a float are installed. As a rule, installing a drain mechanism does not cause difficulties, since it is initially supplied in assembled form. It is inserted into a special mounting hole at the bottom and secured with a plastic nut, onto which a rubber seal is carefully placed. The tank is secured to the toilet using metal pins and nuts.

Attention! Rubber seals should be used at all connections.

A video of assembling a toilet with your own hands will allow you to better understand the sequence of work:

How to install a regular toilet with your own hands?

After the plumbing has been assembled, it is worth clarifying how to install the toilet with your own hands. The work can be performed in the following sequence:

Photo	Description of work
	We mark and drill mounting holes in the floor.
	We remove the accumulated dirt and dust.
	We hammer plastic dowels into the prepared holes.
	We install the toilet at the place of future use and fix its spatial position with bolts.

If you haven’t yet figured out how to do the installation yourself, a toilet installation video will help you learn all the main steps:

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

Models with hidden tanks allow you to use the available space more rationally. They are easy to care for and look stylish. Installation of a built-in toilet can be done in different ways. We invite you to familiarize yourself accessible ways and features of the work.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation

First, you need to decide on the model of plumbing fixtures. Its geometric parameters will affect the requirements for the mounted system. Installation of the pendant can be performed in the following sequence:

Photo	Description of work
	The height of the frame structure is adjustable.
	Installing the toilet installation into a 50 mm wide metal profile and screwing it to the floor through special mounting holes.
	A frame system is installed to which it will be attached.
	Finishing material is attached.
	Silicone sealant is applied to the seat.
	The fittings included in the delivery kit are inserted into the mounting holes.
	The toilet is hung and fixed using the fasteners included in the delivery kit.
	The water connection is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

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If you know the current level, it will be easier to check the value of different sales offers. The information in this article will be useful when performing installation operations. with my own hands and to control the actions of professional teams. In particular, they will help to correctly negotiate when determining the cost of performers’ services.

Installation of floor models

Instead of a wall-mounted model, you can install a floor-standing model with a hidden tank. A large assortment allows you to choose the right option for a toilet in any style.

The technology in this case includes the following steps:

Photo	Description of work
	A niche is being prepared in which the tank will be installed.
	Do-it-yourself toilet installation inside a niche and fixing it.
	Performed final finishing walls, and plumbing fixtures are installed in a designated place.

The main types of fastening the toilet to the floor

Fastening to the floor can be done in different ways:

On, installed in the screed. The hardware is placed in places corresponding to the places where the floor pan is attached, and then the screed is poured. A rather complex option that can be difficult to implement with your own hands without the help of specialists. Insufficient length of anchors may make it difficult to install the nut after installing the toilet;

On a wooden base, the geometric parameters of which must correspond to the dimensions of the installed plumbing fixtures. Nails are first driven into the board, laid on the floor with the nails down, and the screed is poured. During the installation process, the toilet is “seated” on epoxy glue and screwed to wooden base ordinary screws;
On the dowels. This is how a toilet is most often installed on a tiled floor. After installing the product at the site of future use, the mounting holes are marked. They should be deep enough to hold the bowl in place. To ensure reliable fastening, the bowl can be installed on epoxy resin and add some sealant to the mounting holes.

Advice! To prevent the toilet from cracking during installation, gaskets should be used during installation.

The main types of fastening the toilet to the wall

Depending on the design features For a specific model, you can install a toilet with your own hands using:

Frame structure, which is a rigid frame attached to the wall and floor. The tank and pipes can be located behind a false wall;
Block system. A more affordable and compact option that involves installation exclusively on a permanent wall. Installation is carried out in a specially prepared niche, which is then laid with bricks or blocks.

Main types of connecting a toilet to a sewer system

Various adapters are used to connect the system to the sewer. Each type has its own distinctive features. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main varieties in order to have an idea of possible options.

Fan pipe or plastic pipe

If you decide to use an adapter, you need to know exactly the characteristics of the model that you plan to install yourself. When choosing the appropriate option Special attention attention should be paid to the form of the toilet release.

Products with an oblique outlet are mounted in the floor, with a vertical outlet - in the wall, placing the pipe at a right angle. With an oblique outlet, it is permissible to install a “wall”, placing the connecting pipe under acute angle. When replacing plumbing fixtures, you should purchase a model with a similar release, otherwise the use of adapters becomes impossible.

Attention! When using a plastic outlet or waste pipe, modifications are not permitted. geometric shape products.

Eccentric

When using an eccentric collar, according to experts, it is not necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection using sealant. At correct location Using special rubber seals, you can achieve a reliable and tight fit of the mating elements. If the pipes are cast from cast iron, it is still worth using a sealant.

Corrugation

Corrugated pipe (corrugation) is used when other materials cannot cope with the task. How to install corrugation on a toilet? After fixing the system, work is performed in the following sequence:

One end of the corrugation is placed in the sewer hole. The joint must be lubricated with silicone sealant;
The second end is put on the toilet outlet;
Check the tightness of the connection.

Connecting the bathroom to the sewer is done in three ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. We suggest you find out how you can connect a toilet to the sewer and choose the most suitable option.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

Models with vertical release are especially popular in European countries. The design of such plumbing products involves the presence of a siphon located in the bowl and an outlet pipe, which is directed downward during installation. This design is universal, and toilets with vertical outlet can be installed at any angle to the vertical.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation is carried out in the following sequence:

Markings are being made on the floor;
A screw flange with a locking device is installed;
A sewer pipe is mounted in the center of the flange;
The toilet is mounted on a flange;
The outlet pipe is fixed.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

These products are sometimes called direct release toilets. It is most widespread in Russia. Such products have a rearward outlet. It is connected to the sewer pipe using a special cuff.

Models with a horizontal outlet are most often attached to the floor. The manufacturer provides special connection holes that allow you to attach the toilet to the floor. Dowels or standard screws are most often used as fasteners.

Advice! Fasteners should be tightened carefully so as not to damage the product.

Toilet with oblique outlet

A toilet with an oblique outlet can be connected as follows:

Cleans the socket of a cast iron half-bend from old sealing and debris;
The toilet is installed on a layer;
Excess cement paste is squeezed out. It should fill the half-bend socket by at least 2 cm.

This method is currently used quite rarely, since dismantling the equipment is quite difficult. Most often, preference is given to standard anchor screws. However, some cement paste can be placed under the sole of the toilet to compensate for any unevenness.

In some cases, silicone sealant can be used instead of cement paste. However, under significant or uneven load, the sole of the product may crack.

Then, using a sealing coupling, the outlet is connected to the cast iron socket without displacement. It can be used to compensate for existing horizontal or vertical displacement. To ensure maximum tightness, silicone sealant is pre-applied to the outer surface of the coupling.

Connecting water to the toilet cistern

To provide supply tap water to the drain tank, you can use one of the following methods:

Bottom eyeliner. Such models create a minimum of noise during operation. However, if during the installation process it was possible to ensure sufficient tightness;
Side eyeliner. They are easy to install. When performing installation yourself, you may find yourself best choice due to the simplicity of the work. It creates a lot of noise when filling the tank with water. Some models come with an extended pour pitch, which reduces the amount of noise generated;
Flexible eyeliner. Models in which the tank is located above the bowl are most often connected in this way;
Hard eyeliner. Such a system can last quite a long time.

Connections for all types of hoses are performed in the following sequence:

A separate tap is installed with which you can turn off the water supply. The insertion must be carried out according to all the rules;
One end of the line is connected to the tap and secured with a special nut;
The second end is connected to the drain tank and secured with a nut;
The mating surfaces are checked for leaks.

How much will it cost to install a toilet: price for work

If you want to know the price for the work, installing a toilet can be done for a different amount. On average, such services will cost:

We hope you liked the article. Knowing how to properly install a toilet, you can do the entire amount of work yourself. Share in the comments how you solved this problem yourself. If you have any questions, ask. We will definitely answer.

Preparation of tools and materials

To connect the tank to the water supply you will need a flexible hose. It usually comes included. For connection to the sewer - a rigid or bendable corrugated cuff.

It is impossible to perform high-quality installation of a toilet bowl with your own hands without minimum set necessary tools that any owner has in the house

To assemble the structure and connect to communications you will need:

hammer drill or impact drill;
a set of screwdrivers with flat and Phillips blades;
set of wrenches;
building level;
a simple pencil or marker;
stationery knife;
roulette;
chisel;
hammer.

If the installation of plumbing fixtures will be carried out on tiles, then it is also necessary to prepare a “ballerina” or a spear-shaped drill for working on tiles. To make holes for installing fasteners, you will also need an 8 or 10 mm drill.

Auxiliary materials will also be required:

metallized tape;
silicone sealant;
FUM tape;
polyethylene film;
moisture-absorbing piece of fabric;
container for collecting liquid.

Depending on the type of model being connected and the installation method, cement mortar may also be required.

Removing an old toilet

Removing an old toilet is one of the most time-consuming operations.

The work is carried out in several stages:

Turn off the tap.
Disconnect the hose going to the tank from the water supply and drain the water from it.
The empty tank is removed from its mounts.
Unscrew the nuts located on the back of the toilet and disconnect it from the sewer. To loosen the drain, the toilet needs to be rocked from side to side.
Drain the remaining water from the toilet by tilting the bowl forward.
The sewer hole closer to heaven is cleared of dirt and temporarily blocked with a rag gag or a wooden plug of suitable diameter.

The easiest way to remove the bolts is to hold the head with an open-end wrench and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If threaded connections heavily slagged with salt deposits or rusted.

To make the task easier, use universal lubricant “WD-40”, which can loosen deposits in a matter of minutes. In the absence of one, you can use vinegar or kerosene.

The sewer hole must be closed so that toxic hot gases do not spread beyond the pipeline

If rotten taffeta or any other support is found under the dismantled toilet, it must be removed. This can be done with a hammer drill, nail puller or chisel.

In older houses, drains on sewer pipes are often secured with cement coating. The easiest way to knock down dried mortar is with a chisel, pricking it in several places. Read detailed instructions for dismantling an old toilet.

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Option #2 – with horizontal outlet

Plumbing fixtures with horizontal outlet have become one of the most popular in our country. The relevance of installing such equipment is explained by the specifics of the wiring of the sewerage system in Russian apartments.

The main feature of toilets with a straight horizontal outlet is for correct installation a strictly fixed point of connection to communications is required

The horizontal outlet is located at the back of the bowl or base and is directed backwards. Models with this design installed end-to-end with the wall, connecting to any type of location sewer riser.

The connection is made using pipes of the appropriate size. The connection is sealed by placing a rubber seal inside the pipe.

Direct connection is made only if the sewer system is made of plastic. To connect to cast iron pipes, whose circumference rarely has an ideal shape, use cuffs and eccentrics.

Option #3 – with oblique release

The socket in models with an oblique outlet is located at an angle of 45° relative to the floor surface. Models with an inclined outlet are superior to their counterparts in that they are less likely to become clogged, since this design makes it possible to create less resistance when moving solid sewage.

The weak point of devices with oblique discharge are the points of connection between the product and the sewer pipe, which, when improper installation may become cracked

Connecting a device with an oblique outlet to the sewerage system can be done in one of three ways:

By direct connection through the sewer branch socket. They are chosen when there is no need to move the plumbing fixture, and the direction of all elements clearly coincides. The toilet outlet is treated with soapy water and buried in a socket equipped with a cuff.
Connection via eccentric. A socket with a center offset of 5 cm, equipped with a sealing gasket, is mounted in the sewer outlet and by rotating the toilet is shifted to the right or left side.
By installing a corrugated outlet. The use of corrugation makes it possible to deploy the relative oblique sewer outlet device even at an angle of 90°.

Flexible outlet - although convenient, it is far from the best remedy for connecting toilets with oblique outlet. It should be used only in extreme cases, when other methods are not possible.

To find out in more detail how to install a toilet with an oblique outlet, go to.

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The most simple option connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet is the use of corrugation, which ensures perfect tightness

If a long-term connection is not made with the help of corrugation, then you need to use a reinforced version of the corrugated pipe

Using a corrugation, a toilet with an inclined outlet can be connected to a drain located in the floor or wall

If it is possible to reduce the distance between the toilet and the sewer system, instead of corrugation, it is recommended to use a sealed cuff and a plastic outlet

Use of corrugation in connection to the sewerage system

Reinforced corrugation for reliable operation

Toilet connection with side outlet

Cuff in the connection to the sewerage

Features of installation of compact models

The technology for correct installation of floor-standing toilets of compact models includes seven main stages:

The toilet bowl is moved as tightly as possible to the drain hole and checked whether the outlet coincides with the sewer pipe.
If there are small displacements, the device is connected to the sewerage outlet using a corrugated pipe.
The plumbing fixture with the connected corrugated pipe is moved towards the wall, making sure that strong creases and bends do not form on the pipe.
The ends of the connecting element are covered with a thin layer of silicone sealant.
Having adjusted the position of the device, use a pencil to mark the outline of the boundaries of the base of the device and the points where it is planned to drill holes for deepening the dowels.
The toilet is moved to the side. At the designated points, holes are made with a diamond drill with a diameter equal to the size of the dowels used.
Plastic plugs are inserted into the holes. The toilet is “reinstalled” in its original place. Bolts are screwed into the prepared holes.

Tip: to make it easier to put the corrugated pipe on the outlet, its end must be coated with liquid soap on the inner walls.

If holes have to be made in tiles to minimize damage to the surface, first slowly drill the top layer by hand, and only then turn on the hammer drill with impact drill mode

To ensure the tightest possible fit of the toilet sole to the floor covering, silicone is applied along the intended installation counter of the device. The toilet itself is then placed in its original place, following the intended contour.

To fix the plumbing fixture, washers and screws threaded through the holes in the heel are tightened extremely carefully. Under no circumstances should they be driven in!

Photo guide for assembling and installing the compact

Let's look at the process of installing a toilet using the example of assembling and fastening Chinese PORTA plumbing fixtures. An excellent product with a 25-year manufacturer's warranty and a very attractive price.

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Before installing a new toilet, we dismantle the old plumbing, clean the floor under it, repair it and fill it with semi-dry cement mortar

We install a new plastic adapter into the sewer outlet, to which we will connect either a corrugation or a rigid plastic elbow

If necessary, we change the cold water supply pipes in the area behind the toilet. Most often this has to be done so as not to change the pipeline a year or two after installing new plumbing

According to the completed connection from the toilet to the sewer, we set up the plumbing fixtures for fitting in order to mark the attachment points and outline the leg

Step 1: Preparing the floor for the new toilet

Step 2: Replacement of pipes and connections to the sewerage system