Right choice and installation of a heated floor system in wooden house have always been a challenge for owners. Therefore, the article will discuss how to make a heated floor in a wooden house so that its operation is as efficient and safe as possible.
Features of heated floors in a wooden house
Accordingly, all layers of the “pie” will be laid on the support beams: subfloor, vapor and waterproofing layers, finishing for installation flooring and the cladding itself. Naturally, among all these layers there will be a heating system. The underfloor heating system is laid on top of the rough base with an emphasis on preparing various protective and insulating layers for the system elements.
To install a warm floor in a wooden house with your own hands, you can use one of the following methods:
- Combination of dry and concrete screed . This is a universal technology that involves laying two types of screed at once, which allows it to withstand heavy loads on the floor. It can be used for a wide variety of heating systems. The dry bulk part of the screed allows for increased hardness and strength to protect the heating elements of the heating system.
- Liquid screed over existing floors. This is perhaps the most difficult method, as it requires careful preparation. wooden beams. Concrete screed is highly valued due to its thermal insulation properties and increased heating efficiency of the entire system as a whole. It is most advantageous to use such a base in rooms with high humidity, cold and heavy floor covering.
- Free installation with ventilation gap. It is used exclusively for heating equipment as an auxiliary system in relation to the main heating of the house. In combination with ventilation gaps, a powerful heating system cannot be used; additional holes as air outlets will reduce the efficiency of the system.
- Application of reflective plates. This option is a compromise if you cannot do without pouring a concrete screed. The plates are used to reflect the flow of thermal energy, increasing heating efficiency.
Regardless of the chosen design, it is important to carefully prepare and lay each layer.
Choosing between water and electric heated floors
If you are installing a heated floor in a wooden house, then it is very important to decide on the type of installed system.
It depends on the series various conditions and factors:
- features of laying the floor “pie”;
- type of overlap;
- deterioration of the ceiling;
- features of the room in which heating will be carried out;
- purpose of the heating system: primary or additional.
In general, floor heating in private homes can be done using two main types of systems:
- electric heated floor– it is based on a heating element: cable, rod, mat. Thermal energy is released through the application of electric current. Installation can be carried out not only under a dry screed, but also under a liquid solution, since after drying the screed will be absolutely safe for the functioning of electrical elements (more details: " "). Various reflective layers are placed under such a system, which increase the heating efficiency. A variety of floor coverings can be placed on top of it;
- water heated floor- consists of the usual heating circuit, consisting of polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes wires connected to the main heating circuit of the house or heating boiler. Such a system can be installed under a concrete screed, or you can create a dry heated floor in a wooden house by inserting special plates between the contour lines that increase the heating power.
Technically, there is not much difference between these types of floor heating systems when they are installed in a wooden house. It all depends on the choice of the owner and the correct execution of the work on installing the system and all layers in the floor “pie”.
If we consider the visual component, then naturally the wiring fits better into the interior of the room than pipelines. In the photo and during visual inspection the cable is almost invisible.
Preparation for work, creation of a thermal insulation layer and processing of the subfloor
The heating system can only be installed after careful preparation. All procedures are aimed at making the load-bearing part of the floor ideal. IN in this case Both restoration work and complete replacement can be carried out certain parts ceilings
The main thing to remember is that installing a heated floor in a wooden house does not allow a large number of mistakes, since each of them entails a certain percentage of thermal energy losses. As a result, consumption increases electrical energy and the efficiency of the system decreases.
Includes this stage following procedures:
- removal of the existing floor covering and dismantling of the sub-base;
- removal of heat and waterproofing;
- cleaning load-bearing supports from dirt, mold, mildew, etc.
The damaged area is cut out, and a piece of the same size is inserted in its place. If there are skewed or collapsed beams, then they should be strengthened with the help of pads and clamps. The supports can be significantly strengthened using metal corners.
You can avoid the formation of new fungus and wood mold by using antiseptics or soil compositions with deep penetration. Upon completion of such processing, it is necessary to decide on the method of installing the heated floor system and the choice of materials with which the rough base will be insulated.
If in the structure of the old floor the beams are laid in increments of no more than 60 centimeters, then installation can be done directly on it. At the bottom of the beams it is necessary to install special bars that will strengthen supporting structure and will allow you to lay plank flooring as a base.
The height of the fastening of the bars is determined by the thickness of the material used as insulation. Such work can also be done without bars, but then the boards will have to be secured to existing beams. Such work will have to be carried out from the underground or basement.
The wood is treated with an antiseptic. We are talking about every part of the created structure. A membrane vapor barrier layer is laid between the supports. Insulation is laid on top of it, the thickness of which should be 15-20 centimeters. The following can be used as thermal insulation: mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, penoplex.
The thickness of the layer and the height of the supports are selected with the expectation that there should be a gap of 8-10 centimeters from the insulation to the main floor. Moreover, the gap must be ventilated, which can be provided by special air vents in the form of small openings in the subfloor or basement. You can ventilate the subfloor if you leave a small area without boarding.
If the supports are located at a distance of more than 60 centimeters, then the bars should be mounted a little higher. Flooring made from sheets of fiberboard, chipboard, plywood, etc. will be used as a rough base. Read also: "". Layers of vapor and thermal insulation are laid similarly, but vapor barrier membrane It is laid not only from below the insulation, but also from above.
Carrying out work using the example of a water heating system
You can install water heated floors in a wooden house in the most different ways, using a variety of materials, etc. To reduce the load on the underfloor heating system, it is recommended to use polystyrene or ready-made modules. It is this method that will be discussed further.
For correct installation The following materials will be required:
- polyethylene film thickness 0.2-0.5 millimeters;
- polystyrene boards with grooves (thickness 0.3-0.5 centimeters);
- aluminum distribution plates up to 0.5 millimeters thick;
- gypsum fiber sheets with beveled edges 1 centimeter thick;
- self-tapping screws 1.6 centimeters long and 3.5 millimeters in diameter;
- damper tape 5 centimeters thick;
- PVA glue.
If all materials are purchased separately, then it is very important to purchase polystyrene plates with grooves for inserting aluminum plates, and the plates themselves must have notches to simplify joining of the sheets.
All equipment for a heated floor system should be purchased from one manufacturer, in one place, and only on the recommendation of a specialist. It is worth understanding that heating system- This is an individual design, depending on the characteristics of the room.
The heating circuit can be assembled from polyethylene and metal-plastic pipes. Before installation begins, the configuration of the heating system should be clearly formulated.
Laying can be done in a snake or in a spiral. Both methods have both advantages and disadvantages, but spiral laying is more practical in terms of uniform heating. It alternates between “cold” and “warm” circuits. The interval between contour lines does not exceed 30 centimeters.
Installation is carried out as follows:
- After creating the rough flooring, the entire contour of the room at the junction of the floor and walls is glued using damper tape. Fix it with PVA glue. Then the floor surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt and debris. Polyethylene is laid out on it with a 10-15 cm spacing on the walls.
- Then polyethylene mats are laid using the “joint to joint” method. If you are laying the heating circuit with a snake, then you can use a simple mat with grooves for straight installation and a bend near the wall. If the type of spiral is chosen, then you can purchase profile mats or mats with “bobs”. It is advisable to draw a laying diagram in advance in order to complete this stage much faster.
- Aluminum plates are laid according to the same pattern, taking into account the pitch between the pipeline lines. They are adjusted using special notches.
- The pipes are laid in the grooves of the plates in increments of no more than 30 centimeters so that the room is heated evenly. Near the walls, you can reduce the step by half, since this part of the room is the worst in terms of thermal energy loss.
- Then the place in the room where the distribution manifold will be located is prepared. It is advisable to connect the entire system with the help of a professional. Once the connection is completed, the system is tested at twice the standard pressure. If there are no leaks or breaks, and the heating in each section of the circuit reaches the required temperature, then the installation was completed correctly.
- The completion of the installation of the heated floor is the laying of a polypropylene backing and gypsum fiber sheets in two layers. It is desirable that the sheets have a 2-centimeter chamfer. The sheets are fixed together with PVA glue applied to the chamfer, and are also secured to the base using self-tapping screws.
- Then the base substrate is laid and the floor covering is laid on it.
In fact, laying each layer is not difficult. Professional help is required only when connecting the entire heating system to the manifold cabinet, since plumbers do not make mistakes.
Working with electric heated floors
If installation uses conductive elements electricity, then it is important that the system power is no more than 130 watts per square meter. If the cable is laid over wooden structures, then in these areas its power should not be more than 17 watts per meter.
Cables and mats are not placed under furniture, household appliances and in high traffic areas. The maximum temperature of the heating elements should not exceed 45 degrees Celsius. Laying is carried out on a pre-prepared base without significant defects or irregularities.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
- The rough base is cleaned of dust, dirt and debris. Various cracks, holes and cavities are sealed with wood compounds. Under no circumstances should you use polyurethane foam because she is flammable material not compatible with heating systems.
- Wooden blocks of 5x5 centimeters are laid on top of the base, the interval between which should be within 0.4-0.5 meters. You can use bars with smaller proportions, but remember that the gap between heating element and the floor covering should be from 3 centimeters. The bars are fixed with self-tapping screws.
- Insulation with a reflective surface directed towards the room is laid between the bars. This will allow the released flows of thermal energy to be directed into the room and will prevent significant heat losses from occurring. It is advisable to make a spade on the bars. Gives preference various materials with foil layer.
- A reinforcing mesh with a cell area of 1 square centimeter is laid on top of the insulation layer. In those places where the cable will pass through wooden blocks, it is necessary to cut out grooves that are insulated with foil or metal plates. The depth of the groove should be such that the cable is located at the level of the insulation.
- The cable is laid in increments of 10-15 centimeters. The distance from it to the bars should be about 10 centimeters. It is fixed to the reinforcing mesh using plastic fasteners(clamps).
- Upon completion of installation, the bare ends of the cable are brought to the surface and connected to the thermostat unit, which must first be installed in a corrugated tube at a distance of 0.5-0.7 meters from the wall between the turns of the energy cable.
- It is necessary to connect the heating system to the thermostat in absolute compliance with all instructions. When laying, it is important to take into account the total power of the cable, with an emphasis on its cross-sectional area. Once the connection is complete, the system is tested. Particular attention should be paid to areas where the cable is located on top of wood to eliminate the risk of fire.
- The final stage of work is the creation of a finished floor and laying of the main covering.
The finished floor can be made of boards with interlocking joints, which will provide excellent ventilation of the space under the flooring.
The floor covering is chosen exclusively by the owner, because... he may have his own preferences in design and material. Any coating can be used in combination with electric heated floors, so creating a harmonious combination with the interior of the room is quite simple. In the photo and upon visual inspection, such a coating will look original, but it will be possible to understand that there is a heating system hidden underneath it only by visiting the room in person.
Bottom line
The article presents detailed information about the installation of underfloor heating systems in a wooden house. If you follow all the instructions and do not make mistakes, then the efficiency, reliability and safety of underfloor heating will be at the highest level.
If the owner has doubts about his competence when carrying out plumbing or electrical work, then it is better not to take risks and seek help from professionals. Specialists from construction companies will take responsibility for all stages of work - from purchasing the necessary materials to installing the heated floor, testing it and putting it into operation.
Heated floor technology allows you to solve the heating problem different houses. As you know, heated floors, unlike a radiator system, have many advantages. However, some may object that this heating method cannot be installed in a wooden house. In this article we will dispel this notion. Moreover, there are several actually working technologies that allow you to install a water-heated floor on a wooden base.
Is it possible
As already mentioned at the beginning of the article, many doubt how realistic it is to install a water-heated floor in a wooden house. It’s worth saying right away that this is not only possible, but also a completely reasonable solution. Of course, it is necessary to take into account some features and abandon the usual technologies, for example, pouring screed. But on the other hand, this also makes it easier to implement the task, because less labor will be required.
For example, in a wooden house it is prohibited to heat the floors above 30°C. Otherwise, the floor surface may become deformed. For this reason, a warm floor must have a mixing unit and a comb. Thanks to this device, the temperature will be lowered. Among other things, it is necessary to use temperature control. Here preference is given to the automatic system.
Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention Special attention choice of flooring material. Why? When heating materials such as parquet boards, laminate and linoleum above 25°C, it can lead to the release of toxic fumes, namely formaldehyde. This is explained by the fact that it is extremely important to clearly regulate and control the temperature of the underfloor heating fluid in a wooden house.
Possible difficulties
Among other things, you need to understand what difficulties you will encounter when performing such work. As you know, the operating principle of a heated floor is that the heated surface accumulates and then transmits thermal energy. In the traditional version, all this works very simply: the screed heats up and it accumulates heat, and then releases it into the room.
As for the system on wooden field, then the situation here is different. Wood is not a very good thermal conductor. Perhaps someone will think, why not pour a regular screed on a wooden floor? But in this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that per 1m2 there will be a load of up to 300 kg. Of course, this is a huge load from the water system on the wooden floor.
Methods for installing heated floors
A warm water floor can be organized in several ways. Let's look at each of these technologies:
- Use of special mats. This refers to structures in which there are grooves for laying the water circuit. The base floor is first leveled. For this, plywood or other board material is used. Using this modular system completely eliminates the need for screeds. The laid water circuit is covered with DSP, and the finishing flooring material is installed on top of the base.
- Concrete floors on wooden floors. As already mentioned, this option is not optimal due to the fact that a lot of pressure will be exerted on the ceiling. Moreover, it is necessary to perform high-quality waterproofing of all wooden elements. In this case, water heated flooring over a wooden floor will be quite expensive.
- Floor milling. This method is not entirely easy, as it involves making special grooves in the wooden floor. In this case, the wooden floor will serve as mats. This method is the most accessible and inexpensive. After all, the cost of completing heated floors will be significantly reduced.
There is also another option for organizing underfloor heating. Warm floor wooden joists will include laying heating circuits between the joists. Thanks to this, the base will provide pleasant and comfortable warmth to your feet. To implement this method, it is necessary to completely dismantle the boards and lay a heating circuit in the joists. Thus, a warm water floor in a wooden house will become a reality.
What is needed for work
First of all, you need to prepare everything construction material and tool. The complete set of the tool will depend on the technology you choose. In general, for work you will need a set of carpentry tools, a tape measure, pipes for heated floors and fittings, a plumbing tool kit, a screwdriver and the like. Plus, you may need a rule, level, hammer drill, angle grinder, etc.
Heated floor manufacturing technology
Now let's look at the features of the technology for making a warm water floor in a wooden house. In our case, we will consider an example where we use polypropylene pipes. Why exactly them? Everything is very simple. Plastic pipes connected using special fittings. There is a rubber seal on the fittings; there may be several of them on it. Over time, these rubber bands weaken and can leak. And, given that wood is afraid of moisture, this phenomenon is not very favorable. Expensive metal fittings are available for sale High Quality, however, not everyone can afford them. Polypropylene welding technology allows you to create a monolithic connection. It is more durable. The main thing is to correctly follow the soldering technology.
So, the work process is as follows. First, the design of the entire heated floor in a wooden house is carried out. It is imperative to determine the hydraulic calculation. It is important to determine how effective a particular water circuit will be in a wooden house. Only after all this work, it is necessary to proceed to the next stage. You may need the help of specialists here so that all calculations are performed correctly and in accordance with existing standards.
Next, the floor is prepared. First of all, determine whether there are any irregularities. If there is a difference in the floor, then you can level it using plywood or other sheet material. It is also necessary to create a waterproofing layer.
Advice! Waterproofing underfloor heating in a wooden house is a must. Although all work is performed efficiently, it is better to provide additional protection.
If you have chosen to use special mats, then install them. Typically a polystyrene system is used as mats. These mats have special latches that allow you to cover the entire floor surface without any gaps.
The water heated floor is laid in these grooves. The pipes are securely fixed in the grooves. It is worth adding that the system is also equipped with a heat-reflecting plate. Plywood or DSP is laid on top of the mats. Next, the floor finishing material is laid. Now let's pay attention to the choice of finishing material that can be laid on a warm water floor in a wooden house.
Flooring
At the beginning of this article, we already said that under a heated water floor in a wooden house it is necessary to choose the right finishing material. Above wooden flooring You can use laminate or parquet boards. These materials are allowed for their installation. However, there is one important limitation - it is unacceptable to heat the surface above 25°C.
Some prefer natural wood and lay a regular board. This is a very profitable solution from an economic point of view. This is especially true when a water-heated floor is laid between wooden joists.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
If you are just a beginner, it is important to understand that installing a heated floor system has a large number of nuances. If they are not taken into account, the entire underfloor heating system will not be effective. For example, condensation may form, which negatively affects the wooden floor.
Thus, it is unacceptable to lay heating circuits more than 70 meters alone. Otherwise, this may lead to uneven heating of the entire floor in a wooden house. It is also unacceptable to install a heated floor without waterproofing material. Don't think that you can save money here. Over time, if a leak suddenly occurs, the consequences of saving can be catastrophic. For this reason, the wood is treated with special impregnations and laid waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene and the like.
Well, it is equally important to choose the right finishing material. In this case, a number of factors are taken into account: what will be the temperature of the coolant, is it possible to automatically regulate the temperature, and much more.
Conclusion
So, as we have seen, it is quite possible to implement a water-heated floor in a wooden house. Moreover, all the work can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. If you have no experience at all in this area, then you will have to seek help from specialists. If you are persistent and like to do everything with your own hands, then we invite you to familiarize yourself with an interesting and educational video that clearly shows the entire process of installing underfloor heating in a wooden house. We hope this material was useful to you! If you have already had experience in similar work, then share it in the comments to this article.
Warm floors are one of the most popular heating methods today, used both independently and together with other systems. The laying technology has been studied and refined, but is used mainly on the first floors due to the large weight of the cement screed traditionally used for pouring the highway. In order to fearlessly lay heated floors on wooden floors, without fear that the base will “play,” the Finns came up with an original technology. And FORUMHOUSE users adapted it to their needs and capabilities. Our craftsmen willingly tell everyone how to lay heated water floors in a private house over wooden joists.
- Variations on the original theme
- System installation
Dry screed: lightweight heated floors
Dry screed is a technology by which heated floors are laid on joists without pouring cement mortar. In a conventional system, the screed functions not only as a retainer, but also as a conductor - thanks to its high thermal conductivity, it effectively transfers heat upward. But due to its heavy weight, it cannot be used on joists. According to Finnish technology, this function is performed in dry screed plasterboard sheets in three layers - as a base, between pipe loops, as the completion of a “pie”. This allows for a lighter design. The voids between the pipes and sheets are covered with tile adhesive, and the top layer is attached to it.
The design is lightweight, the load on the floors is within normal limits, and even in the event of a leak, the main can be repaired.
DIY water floors in a wooden house.
Variations on a theme
In our country, based on Finnish technology, which facilitates the design and allows one to abandon monolithic casting, its variations have appeared - the principle remains, but the materials have been increased:
- Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) - compared to plasterboard, they are denser, more resistant to bending and deformation, contain cellulose fibers and other additives that increase them specifications. For wet rooms, a moisture-resistant variety (GVLV) is used;
Тishin FORUMHOUSE Member
In such a floor, instead of plasterboard, it is better to use gypsum fiber sheets (GVL). I myself am now considering a dry screed for implementation in my home, I will only replace the bottom layer with OSB. I will assemble the middle part from two layers of gypsum fiber board.
- Chipboard, OSB, plywood - in terms of heat transfer, this design is worse, since wood and its derivatives act as an insulator. For sale ready-made kits heated floor over dry screed chipboard sheets, with grooves selected for hinges, but not everyone can handle their cost.
boatmaster FORUMHOUSE Member
Logs, with a pitch of 60 cm, plus insulation - 35 cm, OSB base, then a 20 mm pipe, plus a 5 mm clip, it turns out 25 mm, three layers of GVLV between the pipes 12x3 = 26 mm.
- Cement particle board (CSP);
- EPPS - pipes are laid directly into the insulation, and the voids are covered with glue. To increase the heat transfer of the elements, foil or similar material is used;
The thickness of the sheets for the middle layer with the main line is selected based on the diameter of the pipe, so that after filling with glue it will be Smooth surface, and the final layer did not put pressure on the pipe. As an option, two sheets are glued together if the thickness of one is not enough.
Forum users are actively organizing their underfloor heating systems on wooden floors.
Serg177 Member FORUMHOUSE
If something happens to the pipe (today, tomorrow or in 25 years), you won’t have to break the screed. I will buy 50 sheets of plywood, 18 mm thick, for 200 m², cut it into strips, 16 mm pipe in between, and cover 200 sheets of ten sheets with laminate on top.
One of the options for making a dry screed with your own hands is laying pipes in special aluminum plates with grooves. They fit the pipes tightly and increase heat transfer. The disadvantage of this configuration is the high cost of these metal gaskets; their use increases the cost of the entire system.
Vladimir Tallin Member of FORUMHOUSE
There are not enough special aluminum sheets that are placed under the pipe and remove heat to the top. I have them, they “hug” the pipe, the size is about 30 cm per meter, there is a groove for the pipe with rare spikes to hold the pipe.
Sheets on a gypsum base are one of the most popular, as an optimal material in all respects.
- Reasonably priced;
- Easily cut into segments;
- Eco-friendly (does not contain synthetic binders like wood-filled boards) and suitable for home use;
- Non-flammable;
System installation
For logs based on Finnish technology, it assumes a standard installation algorithm, regardless of the materials used in the work, be it gypsum plasterboard, gypsum fiber board (V) or other boards.
evraz FORUMHOUSE Member
Similar technologies, where pipes or heating cables are coated with a solution in the grooves of gypsum plasterboard and covered top layer GVL, painted by many manufacturers of underfloor heating systems.
Water-heated floor on joists in a wooden house.
Insulation
The system should transfer heat upward, and not pass it into the ceiling, which will lead to increased heating of the medium and a decrease in efficiency. A vapor barrier is laid between the joists, a layer of insulation (mineral wool, EPS) is placed on top, covered with a layer of vapor barrier. Insulation will protect both the wood and the insulation from condensation, provided that it is not just plastic film. Under a regular film, condensation will form in even larger quantities.
Base
The optimal distance between the logs when installing the system should be observed - 60 cm, in this case there is no need to create additional sheathing to distribute the load, and the sheets form monolithic structure. The sheets are attached to the joists with self-tapping screws.
Highway
The size and diameter of the pipe depends on the area of the room, heat loss, and the power of the equipment used to heat the coolant. The most popular range is 16-20 mm in diameter. The pipe pitch is also individual in each specific case, but on average it is 100 mm, more often at the edges. The pipe is secured with special metal or plastic brackets or self-made clamps.
Warm water floors, wooden floors.
Laying
The space between the contours of the pipes is filled with segments cut from sheets; there should be grooves around the pipes for filling with glue. Optimal size groove - 3 pipe diameters, this is enough for maximum heat removal. The segments are screwed with self-tapping screws, in increments of 10–15 cm; the length of the fasteners should be sufficient for fixation in the joists.
Filling
To fill the grooves, tile adhesive is most often used; a cement-sand mixture can be used, but when mixing, it is necessary to use plasticizers. To increase adhesion and ensure that the finishing layer of the “pie” is more firmly connected to the intermediate layer, it is recommended that after filling the seams with pipes, go over the entire surface with the adhesive mixture “to tear off”. This is advice from a user named Vitaon, he professionally installs such systems and shared his trick with the forum members.
Vitaon FORUMHOUSE Member
Before the finishing layer, the surface consists of alternating strips of dry plasterboard and ditches filled with adhesive. Immediately before gluing, it is necessary to use both putty, a wide spatula and thin layer Cover the entire surface with glue - you will get a homogeneous base. Apply glue on top under the final layer. With this method, adhesion increases many times over.
Finish floor
A water floor on wooden joists can be used practically in a private house; the only contraindication is cheap linoleum– with constant heating it will have a noticeable “smell”. The best option is ceramic tile or laminate flooring. In the case of laminate, there is no backing underneath it due to its thermal insulation properties.
Conclusion
Warm floors with dry screed using Finnish technology are a basic option that can be tailored to specific conditions and needs. All the subtleties and nuances are in the subject. The article selects the most economical heating method. And in the video about engineered heating equipment - expert advice on choosing.
Today I will tell you in detail about some of the heating features in my house and a little about plumbing.
2. First you need to fill the floor with crushed stone, or ASG
3. Set according to laser level subfloor marks (fill level)
4. Don't forget about communications. We punch holes for sewerage and water supply
5. After filling with stone, we fill everything with sand, with intermediate pouring of water and tamping. It is better to use a vibrating plate. It took me three cars of sand. 
6. Little helper and future protector of the house The sand should be level, almost like a screed.
7. The next stage is insulation. For this I use EPPS (Extruded Polystyrene). The material does not get wet and holds monstrous compressive loads. It is even laid under concrete plates runways. Costs 1440 rubles per package, 180 rubles per sheet, 50 mm.
8. We lay the joint into the joint.
9. On the sides, be sure to make small sides from the same material. With this we will thermally insulate the future heated floor from the wall and make a damper edge for possible expansion of the slab. You should get a “bath” of EPS. 
10. Ideally, you need two layers with overlapping seams, but since I won’t have any load here, I decided to save money.
11. Let me remind you that the material is very flammable, so it cannot be used to insulate walls, much less inside buildings! This is what happened when a spark hit the angle grinder. Thirty seconds and a hole the size of a fist. 
12. Place a masonry mesh with a cell size of 10x10 centimeters on the EPS. We will attach pipes to it. 
13. We insulate the entrances to other rooms using special tubular insulation.
14. In place of the bends there is a corrugated pipe. 
15. We remove sewerage and water supply. It is very convenient to mark water with colored insulators.
16. We close all entrances and exits again with EPS and thoroughly foam them. 
17. We continue to lay pipes. It's a simple matter, you can even do it alone. But it's better with an assistant. One unwinds the pipe, the second ties it to plastic clamps. The distance between the pipes is from 10 to 15 centimeters. 
18. Under the partitions, we lay the pipe in corrugation to protect it from friction and bending loads. 
19. If the slab is more than 8 meters, it must be divided to compensate for temperature expansion. I did this using EPS. You can use a regular board or plywood. 
20. Near the panoramic window and near the walls, reduce the distance between the tubes to 8-10 centimeters to compensate for the outside temperature. 
21. It is better not to make a floor under massive objects that will not move. This is a place for a stove in a sauna. 
22. Passage through a corrugated partition. 
23. We lay sewer pipes taking into account a slope of 3 centimeters per meter. 
24. Sewage pipes must be carefully secured. The concrete will simply blow them away! 
25. We bring all the loops to one place, where the collector block will be. Here I have 5 loops, that is 10 pipes. And this is only the first floor for now. It took about 400 meters of Valtek pipe 16. 
26. Loops longer than 100 meters are not recommended due to problems with balancing. But one loop I still ended up with was 111 meters. Therefore, it is better to take rolls of 200 meters. Pipes cannot be connected inside the screed. They are laid there for 50 years!
It will be here panoramic window, so more than the calculated amount of pipe was used. 
27. Let's start assembling the pumping and mixing unit. In principle, nothing complicated, but I still messed up :). I mixed up the supply and return manifolds. Logically speaking, the feed should always be from above. But after watching the training video on the company’s website, I realized that I was wrong and quickly changed it. This cannot be understood logically: the mixing unit should always be on the left, the supply to the unit is TOP, and the supply to the manifold is BOTTOM!
Pumping and mixing unit for heated floors VALTEC COMBI 
28. I picked up all five circuits of the first floor.
Manifold block for water radiator and underfloor heating systems (water heated floor) with control valves with flow meters and manual (with the possibility of installing an electrothermal servo drive) shut-off valves, automatic air vents and drainage. The diameter of the collectors is 1 or 1 1/4″. The number of outlets is from 3 to 12. The diameter of the pipes is 3/4″, the thread is external, the connection standard is “Eurocone”. Working temperature coolant – up to 90 °C, pressure – up to 10 bar.
In the VALTEC COMBI pumping and mixing unit for water heated floors, the preparation of coolant with a temperature of 20 to 60 ° C occurs by mixing liquid from the return line. Regulation is carried out by a two-way valve installed in the supply manifold and controlled by a thermostatic head with a remote immersion sensor, which is located at the outlet of the mixing unit. (When using a heating controller, the valve control function is transferred to it.) Balancing valve in the mixing line sets the ratio of the coolant coming from the return line of the secondary circuit and the direct line of the primary circuit. Other main elements of the unit: bypass with bypass valve; built-in Ball Valves to turn off circulation pump; automatic air vent; immersion thermometers.
Pump Wilo Star-RS 25/4
29. Concrete was delivered. I ordered a mixer for 8 cubes of sand-cement mixture M-150 with plasticizers for heated floors. The three of us scattered it in half a day. Very hard! 
30. The cat tried to help, but it’s difficult without boots 
31. We leveled it the next day, using shovels and axes, removing burrs, since it is difficult to set the level right away. 
32. In the meantime, while the concrete was drying, I began building a temporary, guest bathroom.
There was a stove here. The walls are very uneven. 
33. I level the walls with a profile and don’t tell me that it’s for the ceiling and can’t be horizontal
34. I raise the ceiling level by a meter so that a shower stall can fit in. 
35. The distances from the walls are gigantic. I will then fill all the empty space with pieces of mineral wool. Luckily I have a lot of waste.
36. Sew up with moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheets (green). The floor has already been treated with rubber-bitumen mastic.
37. I fill all cavities with mineral wool. This is not for warmth, but for sound insulation. 
38. I’m starting to install a polypropylene water supply system. I bought a welding machine for 2000 rubles. Rent costs 500 rubles per day, it will pay off in 4 days. And I still have a lot of things to cook 
39. You have to play around with attaching the pipes. 
40. In the end I did this:
41. All pipes are behind drywall, sewerage too. 
42. There are no more multi-colored insulation. Let all the water be hot 
43. This is the ceiling, or rather its frame.
44. Ventilation visible. She is taken to the roof. 
45. I cover the ceiling with plastic panels 30 centimeters wide. 
46. Installing Spotlights and take the corrugation out for ventilation. 
47. The floor is prepared for tiles and screed. At the bottom there is a 150x50 board on the edge, every 30 centimeters with jumpers, on it there is a 40 mm floorboard, tongue and groove, coated with rubber-bitumen mastic from the heart and on top OSB-3 is moisture resistant. It has 50 MM EPPS and a vapor barrier. 
48. The walls, as you understand, are made of plastic panels, because you need to quickly get the bathroom up and running. A family of 5 people in the house has not been washed for three days. 
49. The final touch is a plastic grille for ventilation. Don’t forget to leave a gap of 2-3 centimeters under the doors for free movement of air from other rooms.
50. I start assembling the cabin. My wife wanted to call specialists for 4,000 rubles, but you and I know that this is almost 20 liters of beer 
51. We smoke the manual until everything seems to fit. 
52. Trying on a bathtub. It fits, but there is not enough space. 
53. Assembling a mixer using Tibetan magic and a tambourine. 
54. Collected. Since there was not enough space, I had to take long hoses of 1.5 meters. 
55. Assemble the back and side walls. This is where I had to turn to PL. The guys helped with advice and even sent photos of their booths. Respect and respect!
56. She's alive! Everything works, radio, shower, massage. The whole process took 3 days. Don't forget to silicone all the cracks! 
57. The toilet also fell into place.
58. Mixer. For 10 years now I have been buying faucets from Calorie, made in China, of course, but industrially assembled. The quality is excellent and the price is affordable; such a thing costs about 3,000 rubles.
59. But the sink turned out to be inconvenient. Water splashes out of it. 
60. It's time to install heated floors on the second floor.
Floor pie from bottom to top:
The log is 6.5 meters by 30 centimeters, every 2 meters.
Board 200x50 on edge, every 60 centimeters with spacers.
Board 150x50 as a subfloor. 
61. The floor must be dry! I kept it for 3-4 months in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. During this time, the cracks increased to 1 centimeter and “helicopters” appeared in places. We hammer the nails in with a hammer and scrape them with an ordinary plane for 2000 rubles, it is enough for 100 squares. 
62. In damp rooms we treat the boards with rubber-bitumen mastic. We glue a reflective vapor barrier onto it. 
63. The technology is as follows: heat the mastic on a stove (on an electric one!) until it becomes liquid and spread the boards over the width of the insulation.
64. As a result, we get a uniform coating, protection from moisture and heat downwards. 
65. We leave an allowance of 7-10 centimeters on the walls to compensate for the thermal expansion of the heated floor slab.
66. On the second floor I made a cutout for the manifold cabinet. 
67. Pipes go through the attic of the bathhouse. It is slightly lower than the main house. We fasten the pipes with regular clips, for pipes or electrics. They are practically the same. 
68. Lay the first loop, there will be 6 of them in total. Laying technology is snail. First we lay it in double steps of 36 centimeters, then from the center of the return line after 15 centimeters. Ideal for the bedroom.
70. The distance between the pipes is 36 cm, taking into account the width of the clip. 
71. Return from the center of the cochlea. The photo shows a spring-conductor for bending in difficult places. If the pipe is bent, you will have to do everything all over again and throw away the pipe. All 100 meters! 
73. When all the pipes are laid, strips of GVL (Gypsum Fiber Sheet) are laid between them in two layers; plain drywall cannot be laid! 
74. The result is an almost monolithic slab. 
75. Fill all grooves with DSP solution or tile adhesive. We get a mini-screed of light weight with good heat dissipation.
Another layer of gypsum fiber board is laid on top of the tile adhesive. We get the perfect subfloor for laminate and tiles. 
76. This is how 24 pipes go up. They will be hidden in the wall. The attic is double insulated.
77. In my mind, the collector should have been installed here too. To remove air, I installed automatic air vents. The photo shows the loop numbers and length in meters. 
78. The last one. Despite numerous disputes and excuses, I assembled this system myself, without any practical experience. About 1 kilometer of pipes have been laid. Everything works and heats up. The setup is quite complicated, but I just put everything in the middle position. The floor temperature is now 26 degrees, the air temperature is 25. The power reserve is about 80%. Very comfortable warmth.
Go for it!
The most effective room heating devices include a warm water floor, but its profitability is far from optimal. When installing such systems in wooden houses, there are a number of significant restrictions. A screed cannot be used, since the plank base may not withstand such a heavy load. However, there are other effective ways to make an electric heated floor yourself in a wooden house without stress on the base.
Warm floor in a wooden house
If we take into account the old-style buildings, then wooden floors were used in their construction. In this case, it is possible to use a concrete screed, on the surface of which a warm floor will be placed. In the case of a private house, such manipulations are impossible. Often we are talking about weak and time-worn wooden floors that are not able to withstand significant loads.
If the decision was made to use electrical systems for space heating, the following important points should be taken into account:
- Wood belongs to the category of highly flammable materials. That is why, whenever possible (apartments), you should use infrared type of heated floors.
- Such devices are not able to replace the heating system, so you should take care of heating radiators.
- Low thermal conductivity, which will lead to the use of elevated temperatures.
What requirements apply to heated floors?
Requirements to warm floor If a decision has been made to install an electric heated floor in a wooden house, special attention should be paid to compliance with safety rules that will eliminate the possibility of unexpected and dangerous situations further.
Basic Rules:
- The cable should not be placed under furniture. Violation will lead to overheating of the device and its breakdown.
- When using species such as oak or beech, the thickness of the boards should not exceed 2.5 cm, and larch and pine 2.3 cm.
- To avoid the formation and retention of moisture (condensation), you will need to lay a solid waterproofing layer. Any electrical equipment does not tolerate water, and heated floors are no exception.
- The thermostat will help avoid possible overheating of the structure. It should be equipped air cushion and temperature sensors. This will prevent spontaneous combustion. For wooden floors the maximum is temperature regime at 40°C.
- The cable is installed evenly, which will ensure equal heating of all areas.
In a room where underfloor heating systems are installed, it is not recommended to use any carpets. This will create an unnecessary insulating layer that will not allow heat to penetrate into the room.
What installation technologies are used
Heated floor installation technology There are only two options for laying heated floors: with or without screed. Everything will depend on the strength of the foundation of the room or the building as a whole. Some other additional factors should be taken into account, such as the age of the building and the frequency of use of the room.
No screed
Warm floor for a wooden house If you plan to install heated floors in a wooden house, then the use of screed is not recommended due to its enormous weight. The technology used is somewhat different from the usual one. To begin with, the necessary preliminary work, aimed at cleaning and preparing the working surface. The logs are being installed, under which it is necessary to lay thermal insulation material(at least 4.5 cm), one of which will have foil on one side. A mounting grid is placed on top, which will help secure the cable being used.
Important! If desired, you can use a special laminate in which the TEP cable is already installed. However, you should be prepared for significant costs for its purchase.
Installation is carried out using loops, the markings of which are carried out on the joists in which cuts are made for the loops. The cable itself is mounted in prepared cuts and secured with clamps. At a certain distance from the floor (convenient for a person), a temperature regulator is installed, and the sensor is placed between the logs. After checking the functionality of each of the system elements, you can begin laying the finishing coating. There must be a layer of at least 5 cm from the device to the coating.
Using a screed
Screed for heated floors in a wooden house Wooden floor should be made smooth and even (monolithic). The tree should not be allowed to walk, so any loosening should be avoided. If necessary, the structure is completely disassembled and reassembled. Afterwards, waterproofing material (polyethylene with a density of 200 microns) is laid. Thermal insulation should be laid on it (“Tizol” is perfect). The foil side should be facing up. The cable is installed on top of the thermal insulation material. Fastenings are made with pre-calculated steps using loops. After installation, the cable is filled with cement-based mortar. But before that, it is recommended to install a thermostat and temperature sensor. It is placed between the loops.
Installation Features
Installing heated floors in a wooden house There are a number of features that should be worked out before installation work begins. Wooden houses require a particularly careful approach, because additional weight can lead to distortion or shrinkage of the structure. The heating system will be laid on logs.
The sequence of work will look like this:
- arrangement of rough covering;
- laying a vapor barrier layer;
- installation of waterproofing material;
- finishing treatment;
- sound insulation;
- flooring.
The heated floor system will be placed inside this pie. If you plan to carry out all the upcoming work yourself, then you should pay attention to one of the methods below:
- Using plates with a reflective effect. This is a kind of compromise if it is necessary to carry out a screed based on concrete mortar. The plates will help direct heat flow in the right direction, thereby increasing the efficiency rate.
- Small ventilation gap. Can only be used as an additional heat source in the presence of centralized heating. A powerful system cannot be used in this case. Existing ducts will reduce the efficiency of the installed equipment.
- Screed over the existing floor. This method is classified as complex and requires preliminary preparation. Thermal insulation properties the screeds are at the proper level, which will significantly increase the efficiency of heating the premises. Such manipulations are recommended to be carried out in rooms with high levels of humidity or if you plan to install tiles or any other cold covering.
- A skillful combination of concrete and dry screed. Using the two most common technologies simultaneously will make it possible to create a surface that can withstand any load.
Regardless of the final choice of the preferred technology, it is important to strictly follow the available instructions and listen to all the wishes of the manufacturer.
Installation work
Installation work when laying heated floors Experts recommend laying the system under a small layer of screed. Thus, tiles or any other types of cold coverings can be installed as flooring. The arrangement of the underlying layer is mandatory and for this you will need high-quality thermal insulation materials, the surface of which is metallized. The main stages of installing a heated floor are similar to installing a heated water floor. The underlying layer acts as solid foundation regardless of the technology used.
The device is connected to special sensors, then to the electrical network and covered with floorboards. Cement screed You don’t need to use it, because it can add significant weight to the main structure. But in this case, you will have to arrange the subfloor. To begin with, guides are mounted, between which thermal insulation material is laid. A welded mesh is laid on top of it, on which the power cable. It must be placed on the same level.
The grooves of the cut are used at the places where it intersects. Their bottom is lined with foil, and clamps and mounting tape. Afterwards, you should begin arranging the final coating, for which it is customary to use timber or boards with tongue-and-groove joints as joints. Tongue and groove boards will also come in handy. Before you begin arranging the final surface, you need to connect the system to the network and leave it turned on for several days.
The most common mistakes when arranging
Mistakes when laying heated floors If a newbie gets down to business, difficulties can arise at every step. The secrets of success lie in the details, which you should learn about before starting the upcoming work. It is necessary to understand that you will have to work with electrical devices that have an increased level of danger. This type of coating is designed to heat the surface of the flooring, thereby creating the much-needed home comfort. The design will be based on a mat or two-core cable. The length should be calculated in advance, since cutting it yourself is not recommended.
In most cases, problems arise precisely due to non-compliance with the designated technologies and violation of the rules for carrying out installation work.
The square footage of the room will also play an important role. The area that will be heated and the area on which furniture or plumbing is placed are calculated separately. Installing the cable under furniture is strictly prohibited, since the system will work to warm the bed or closet, and not the surrounding space. This will lead to rapid breakdown due to huge and regular loads. Working surface must be cleaned and prepared in advance. The loops should not touch or intersect.
It is also recommended to avoid bends. It is prohibited to step on the cable, as internal deformation of the wires and their subsequent short circuit and loss of elasticity are possible. It is not recommended to place the temperature sensor in thick concrete, since a corrugated pipe is used for this. Before turning on, you should wait until the solution used is completely dry. Drying the screed using the device is not recommended.
Conclusion
Laying heated floors in a wooden house Laying a warm electric floor in a wooden house can be done in several ways, based on time-tested schemes. To create a cozy atmosphere in a wooden house, any technology is suitable. If you follow the recommendations specified by the manufacturer and follow safety rules, then installing a heated floor will not take much effort and time, not to mention saving the family budget.
