The optimal size of garden beds. Ideas for garden beds in the country

Only a person far from farming can say that plants don’t care in which bed they grow. The shape and size of the beds determine the level of soil moisture, the intensity of gas exchange and the species composition of microorganisms that live in the upper layers of the earth. All these factors have a direct impact on the quality of the substrate, and consequently on the level of productivity - the main criterion of success for any gardener. How to use a scientific approach for the benefit of your garden, how to create not only a neat appearance of the beds, but also increase the productivity of your plot as high as possible? We will try to answer these questions in this publication with a large-scale selection of photos of a wide variety of beds.

Principles of arranging beds

A garden bed is a relatively small, often quite isolated area of soil where you can provide individual care for a plant of a particular crop, create humidity conditions and carry out fertilizing. It is obvious that in a summer cottage or garden, plants with different agricultural technologies are grown, often with opposing care requirements - without an individual approach to achieve high yield will not work. It is for this purpose that differentiation is necessary on the site - dividing the territory into zones, and the zones into beds.

If the purpose of the beds is more or less clear to every gardener, then such nuances as the level of illumination, the composition of the soil and even its consistency are necessary for different cultures, are not always taken into account and not by everyone. Unfortunately, failure to understand that cucumbers and tomatoes, for example, require different approaches leads to a significant loss of yield. By creating simple trenches for planting certain crops, or isolated beds, the owner of the site can give the plants proper care - all efforts will invariably pay off in the quality or quantity of the harvest.

Cultivation methods

There are two main (and at the same time diametrically opposed) approaches to farming:

traditional;
ecological.

The traditional method of cultivating the land is a thing of the past, incredibly labor-intensive and often irrational, extremely traumatic for the ecosystem. It is based on human attempts to control the processes in the soil and its condition. The traditional method of farming includes the following activities:

digging up the soil twice (per year);
herbicide treatment;
uncontrolled amount of fertilizer applied to the soil;
With this principle of farming, beds are cultivated in such a way that they have a small number of capillaries and, as a result, an insufficient number of microorganisms.
All these factors inevitably lead to low yields and depletion of soil resources.

The second approach, ecological (natural), is based on the ability of the soil to regenerate itself. There are many principles of natural farming, but they are all based on the fact that humans rarely interfere with the natural course of processes occurring in the soil. Digging up the soil is replaced by surface loosening, and weeding once a week or two is replaced by timely mulching.

Modern farming methods are based on an ecological method and with this approach microorganisms, plant roots and insects independently restore the soil structure. An increase in the number of capillaries increases gas exchange processes, as a result, plant roots are naturally enriched with nitrogen, which leads to an increase in both the quality and quantity of the crop. All this can happen without chemical fertilizers at all or with a minimal amount of them.

Types of beds for a modern vegetable garden

Only at first glance it may seem that the beds differ from each other only in size and shape. Although these indicators have great importance for plants that require an individual approach and isolation from other crops. The beds may differ in the very principle of formation, for example, they may be not on the site, but above it, located on the so-called “green wall” or inside plastic pipes large diameter. It all depends on how to care for each specific type of plant.

Box-shaped bed

The box bed is one of the most popular methods of soil cultivation today. This method of planting allows not only to create a separate place for each crop, but also to organize the landscape of a summer cottage or vegetable garden at a high aesthetic level. It is not difficult to organize a garden bed in the form of a box - a fence in the form of low shields is installed on the prepared and marked site (hacienda or small backyard).

To organize the fencing of the bed-box, you can use:

flat or wavy slate;
unnecessary boards;
polycarbonate sheets;
plastic;
any waste material capable of withstanding soil moisture more than one summer season.

Next, layers of organic matter and the soil itself are poured into the prepared compartment. Such beds are not dismantled for the winter, and in the spring, after surface loosening, it will be possible to plant seeds or seedlings of certain crops again. This approach is not only practical and rational, but also aesthetic.

Beds with high sides

Raised beds are usually shaped like ridges or trapezoids. The rise of the soil is usually ensured by a “cushion” of compost layer, on top of which soil is poured. In areas of our country where the mole cricket is common, a layer of compost is not used; lifting is carried out only by pouring soil. The mole cricket usually makes nests in the compost layer (a warm and humid place is an ideal habitat) and can spread throughout the entire area very quickly.

Raised beds are most often used for growing melons:

cucumbers;
pumpkins;
zucchini;
Sometimes some varieties of potatoes are grown this way.

Beds with high sides are created for one season. In most cases, the embankment subsides greatly under the weight of snow and loses its functional purpose. If weaving plants (for example, cucumbers, some types of zucchini) will be grown in a bed with a box design, then it would not be a bad idea to equip the fence with a vertical lattice (made of wood or metal, created using weaving, or any available means).

If such a structure is equipped with a high dome, covered with film, then an ordinary garden bed becomes a greenhouse. Growing seedlings in such portable structures is very convenient and practical.

"Warm" beds

The beds are called “warm” because their lower layers contain fresh, unrotted manure. The mound of manure is carried out in late autumn to winter period All processes took place under the cover of snow. In early spring, after the snow melts, such beds are cleaned so that they are warmed by the sun and decomposition processes begin.

Next, the manure begins to rot with a large release of heat. As a rule, in compost heaps during “burning” the temperature inside can reach 40-50 degrees. But the layer of manure on the beds is not high and this effect does not occur; moreover, winter exposure significantly slows down the “burning” processes. All these manipulations and preparations are needed in order to plant crops in a ready-made, “warm” bed. This is usually done for planting plants with a shallow root system - cucumbers, radishes, etc.

After the end of the summer season, all manure is processed. If you remove upper layer soil, then under it you can find humus, which is a very valuable substrate. This natural fertilizer can be scattered throughout the garden or summer cottage. And at the end of autumn, it will be possible to put manure back into the bed and start the process of preparing a “warm” bed over a new one.

Beds with drainage

In clay buds, in very low places into which all the water constantly drains and in wetlands, it is necessary to arrange beds with drainage. They are not difficult to make - usually a 50-60 cm layer of soil is removed, then sand about 20 cm high is laid out at the bottom of the resulting hole, then sawdust and humus are poured in, and only after that soil is added. Drainage and gas exchange in beds of this type are excellent - an ideal place for growing root crops (for example, potatoes).

Material for making beds with your own hands

Creating a bed of any configuration requires some preparation. In order to arrange the beds in the form of boxes, you will need to use the following materials:

slate or boards, plastic or polycarbonate of such a height that there is at least 30 cm in the ground, and at least 20 cm on the surface of the entire size of the product;
pegs made of wood or metal, which will be needed to secure the fencing material;
non-woven material that can be used to cover the bottom of the prepared trench.

After the workpiece - the dug hole is covered non-woven material, it will be necessary to fill it with the following layers on top:

sawdust or straw - approximately 10cm;
dry foliage (which you prepared in advance in the fall) - about 10 cm;
a mixture of compost and soil, ratio 1 to 2 (layer size 10 cm or more);
a clean layer of soil of at least 10 cm.

marking on the ground - usually done using pegs and a stretched cord. When calculating the size of the bed, it is important to understand that the narrower the trench, the faster it will dry out;
Next comes the preparation of the material for the fence - cutting it, preparing pegs. If the box is not very large, then it will be more convenient to assemble it in advance using self-tapping screws. Such structures are reusable, they can be removed for the winter if the beds are moved;
then a fence is installed on the garden bed;
then non-woven material is placed at the bottom of the pit;
A layer of sawdust, dry leaves, soil mixed with compost and just soil is poured in successively.

And in conclusion. Your site can not only bring good harvest, but also look aesthetically pleasing. Landscape design can manifest itself not only in the courtyard of a private house, but also in the garden and vegetable garden. But the main principle for arranging beds on the territory should still be the plants’ needs for sunlight. In a properly located bed, plant care will require minimal care.

Traditional cultivation of the land requires a lot of time and physical effort, and the harvest does not always correspond to expectations. That is why more and more gardeners are setting up high beds on their plots, allowing them to special effort receive annually excellent harvest vegetables Anyone can make raised beds with their own hands, because this does not require special skills or special equipment.

Benefits of raised beds

Compared with ordinary beds Bulk has much more advantages:

a vegetable garden can be planted even in an area completely unsuitable for farming;
Digging and weeding of the garden are replaced by light loosening of the soil;
on limited space easier to remove weeds;
high bed easy to install and just as easy to disassemble;
You can lay out paths between the beds and walk along them in any weather;
plants ripen faster, which is especially important for cold regions;
when arranging a high bed, good drainage is ensured;
crops in the beds can be easily protected from frost by covering them with tarpaulin or agrofibre.

In addition, a vegetable garden made from raised beds can be very decorative, so you can plant it next to your house.

Fencing materials

A high bed is a frame of certain dimensions, inner space which is filled with soil, compost and fertilizers. Most often, the frame is made of a rectangular shape, and it is assembled from boards, slate, branches, plastic and other materials.

Wood is the most affordable, easy to install and environmentally friendly material. To assemble the beds, boards, timber, and small logs are used. Disadvantages: wood requires wood, quickly darkens and loses its attractiveness, and is short-lived.

Vine and twigs - inexpensive and original solution. Wicker walls look very attractive; you can give the bed any shape. Disadvantages: weaving vines requires skills; the service life of such a frame is very short.

Stone and brick are an option for areas with classical architecture. Very reliable and durable material, gives the beds decorative look. Disadvantages: high cost, it will take more time to create a bed, difficult to dismantle.

Plastic is an excellent alternative to wood. Sheet plastic is easy to assemble and disassemble, it is quite durable, has an attractive appearance, is very durable and relatively inexpensive. Disadvantages: certain types of plastic contain harmful substances, so they are not suitable for the garden. The environmentally friendly material has an appropriate certificate, which must be presented upon purchase.

Metal is a convenient and durable material, ideal for shaped beds. If necessary, moving the metal frame will not be difficult, as will dismantling it. Appearance The metal walls are neat, they can be painted in any color or decorated with ornaments. Disadvantages: welding skills are required to assemble a metal curb, the price of sheet metal is quite high, and high-quality surface treatment is required to protect against corrosion.

– perfect solution For multi-tiered beds or arranging a vegetable garden on a slope. The walls can be made monolithic or assembled from separate ones. The concrete surface is easy to decorate, it is extremely strong, durable, and has a neat appearance. Disadvantages: lengthy installation process, high cost of materials, additional requirements for the design of the drainage system.

Decorating beds with slate is a completely budget-friendly and simple option. The walls can be installed very quickly, this material lasts a long time, and for decorative purposes the slate can be painted in any color. The main disadvantage is the fragility of the material, so it should be handled with care during installation.

Each gardener selects the size and shape of the bulk bed at his own discretion. And yet, there are optimal parameters at which the bed will be most effective:

height from the ground 15-50 cm;
width 90-120 cm;

If the bed is placed on fertile soil, it is made 15-20 cm high. This is quite enough for a good harvest. If the soil on the site is not suitable for farming, the bed is raised to 30 cm. Compost beds are made even higher - up to 0.5 m. Sometimes the walls are raised very high, which allows you not to bend over while cultivating the soil and planting plants, but this increases material consumption and requires more time to arrange a garden. In addition, with a large frame width, it is inconvenient to cultivate the soil at such a height.

The width of the bed should be sufficient for two rows of plants. With this planting, all plants will receive the same amount of air and sunlight, which has a very positive effect on yield. More rows result in the average plants receiving less air, being shaded, stretched upward, and yields falling. It is also much easier to cultivate a bed of standard width than one that is too wide.

The length of the bulk bed does not play a special role, therefore it is limited only by the size of the plot. The most common option is beds with a length of 1.5 to 3 m; They are compact and look neat in the garden.

Proper arrangement of high beds

For example, a bed with a fence made of boards is taken; This option is the most convenient and inexpensive.

During the work you will need:

bayonet shovel;
roulette;
drill or screwdriver;
building level;
circular saw or jigsaw;
self-tapping screws;
boards 50x200 mm;
timber 50x50 mm;
primer;
construction mesh.

Step 1. Wood processing

The boards are cut to the size of the frame, after which they are coated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation. You can use used oil for these purposes, and to prevent harmful substances from penetrating into the soil, after treatment it is recommended to cover the tree with film on one side. The lower edges of the boards, which will be in contact with the ground, are treated especially carefully. The timber is sawn into pieces 50 cm long and also impregnated with a protective agent. After that construction material laid out to dry.

Step 2. Site preparation

The area for the garden bed should be illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours a day. Mark the boundaries of the bed, remove stones and branches, dig perennials. If desired, you can dig up the soil together with fine grass - this will increase the permeability of the soil. If the soil is very dense and trampled, it is enough to remove the layer of turf around the perimeter of the marking to a small depth to make it easier to position the frame.

Step 3. Assembling the frame for the bed

The dried boards are knocked down in pairs into panels and connected to each other using bars. The height of the shields is equal to the height of the bed, the long sides of the frame are additionally reinforced with transverse bars in the center. Since the length of the bars is greater than the height of the walls, they should protrude 10 cm above the frame. These will be the legs of the frame. To improve the appearance of the structure, boards laid flat, the edges of which are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, are placed around the perimeter of the frame. Finally, the frame can be painted on the outside.

Step 4. Installation of the structure

The finished frame is transferred to the installation site; align the structure according to the markings, make recesses for the legs, check the location of the bed building level. If necessary, place pegs or, conversely, remove excess soil. The structure should be as level as possible, with all corners at the same level. Finally, add soil around the perimeter of the walls and compact it so that there are no gaps left.

Step 5. Filling the bed

First, the bottom is covered with a construction mesh and nailed along the edges to the walls of the frame. The mesh will protect the structure from the penetration of moles and mice. Then geotextiles are laid, which will not allow weeds to grow. Next, the beds are filled in layers:

small branches, bark, large shavings, leaves;
bird droppings, rotted manure or;
fallen leaves, branches, bark, grass;
mineral fertilizer;
fertile land.

The thickness of each layer is 10 cm. There is no need to mix the layers, but it is necessary to level and compact well. If the soil on the site is not very good good quality, it is better to use purchased soil. After filling, the bed is well watered and left for a couple of days. During this time, the layers will settle a little and become denser. It is recommended to cover the frame with black agrofibre, which provides better soil heating and prevents weeds from germinating.

It is recommended to make high beds in the fall or at the end of summer, so that the layers are well rotted and the roots of the plants get the maximum useful substances. If the beds are installed in the spring, it is necessary to fill them at least a month before planting and pour plenty of water several times to compact them. It is easy to turn such a structure into a greenhouse: to do this, plastic or metal arcs are installed above the frame, the ends of which are secured to the walls with bolts. They are attached to the arches on top plastic film or special agrofibre.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Construction of beds made of slate

To create bulk beds, you can use both flat and wavy slate. The technology for installing beds using this method is very simple and anyone can do it.

Table. Wave slate

To work you will need:

slate sheets;
Bulgarian;
bayonet shovel;
a piece of chalk or pencil;
roulette;
level;
rubber hammer;
drill;
wooden pegs or metal rods.

Step 1. Marking

In the selected area, the boundaries of the beds are marked and beacons are installed. Narrow grooves are dug along the perimeter to the depth of a bayonet. If the soil is good, then remove the entire fertile layer inside the marking, pouring it near the future beds.

Step 2. Preparing the material

Slate sheets are laid on flat surface, measure the required length and draw a chalk line across the waves. After this, the slate is cut along the lines using a grinder. The pegs are soaked bitumen mastic or waste oil, and if scraps of metal rods are used as racks, they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Step 3. Installing the frame

The first sheet of slate is installed vertically in the groove from the corner of the marking. Next, place the next sheet with an overlap in one wave, level it, and beat it on top with a rubber hammer so that both sheets are at the same height. Check the location of the upper edge of the slate with a building level; if necessary, add or remove soil from below. The walls are reinforced with metal rods or pegs, which are driven in on both sides to a depth of 0.5 m. So, all the sheets of the frame are placed one by one, the trench is filled up and the horizontal level is checked again. After this, the soil near the walls is compacted and the excess is removed.

Step 4. Filling the bed

At the very bottom you can put old newspapers, cardboard, pieces of wallpaper, the next layer is chopped brushwood, tree bark, sawdust. After this, small shavings are poured in, plant waste, peat or compost are laid. And all this is sprinkled on top with the soil that was taken out at the very beginning. Apply plenty of water to the bed to wet all layers and leave for several days. When the bed is compacted, you can begin planting.

Garden bed care

When the plants sprout, the plantings should be well watered and mulched. Weeds that break through the mulch layer are immediately removed. After harvesting, the surface is loosened and sown with green manure. Before the onset of cold weather, all vegetation is mowed down, leveled on the bed, covered with a layer of earth on top and covered with black film for the winter. Periodically it is necessary to inspect the walls of the frame, replace or repair individual sections.

The soil between the beds is most often covered with small crushed stone, gravel, straw, and sometimes seeded lawn grass. In such conditions, the garden always remains well-groomed, weeds do not grow, and dirt does not stick to shoes. If desired, you can use tiles and bricks, or pour concrete.

Video - DIY raised beds

Video - Raised beds made of slate

How to apply beautiful beds for the lazy, tall and smart beds are what a gardener needs to know who wants to make his life as independent as possible from gardening worries. If you wish, you just need to master the design method lazy beds which you can see at the following photos. A garden bed of this type will allow you to enjoy a well-deserved rest at the dacha and will not require weeding every time. In addition, it is not only convenient, but also increases crop productivity.

Everyone knows how much time and effort needs to be devoted to each planted crop, which, however, sometimes does not even justify the result: the seedlings may not germinate or do not ultimately produce a normal amount of harvest. In this case, you should pay attention to the technology of lazy beds on your site!

Beautiful and comfortable

Lazy bed - absolutely new approach to caring for the garden, which will allow the seedlings to grow on their own and yield several times more harvest. It is based on a rule that states that digging and weeding the soil is prohibited, except for its preparation and planting itself. Even though constant weeding can remove weeds and fluff up the soil, sooner or later it will dry out and will not be able to provide sufficient moisture for crops.

In this approach, preparation for future planting is very important - it is advisable to do this in the fall, when you can collect material for mulching the soil (you need to cover it with straw, sawdust, cones, etc.), which, in turn, will prevent weeds germinate in an area with such cover.

Install your own irrigation system. It is not necessary to choose the most expensive systems available in stores. In the case of such vegetable gardens, those from which you only need to press a button are quite suitable - and there will be no need to water it yourself. Watering will allow you to make beautiful beds: green and lush. It is also worth noting: watering can be done infrequently, but abundantly, giving the plants the necessary moisture until your next visit.
A tool for working in the garden is the key to saving time. Therefore, it is worth choosing one piece of equipment for many years. It may include not only the usual shovel and buckets, but also various little things that will make your work easier. Also, find a place for your inventory in advance.
At the beginning of the planting season, dig up the ground once and prepare it for future seedlings or seeds. Plant the plants and don’t disturb the earth anymore: mulching will do its job and protect you from weeds. All that remains for you before harvesting is to water the garden beds on time.

It's interesting and effective method, which is suitable for both lazy gardeners and experienced gardeners who know their business. A garden bed of this type will be worth the effort and can bring a lot of convenience.

High beds as a way to obtain an intensive harvest

Even though this is a very labor-intensive process at first - building the frame itself and watering the beds, it will allow you to forget about the bad climate and low yields.

The high bed is always exposed to the rays of the sun, which helps to warm up the soil layer, so it can be planted as early as April without fear of freezing, and the lower mesh will prevent the invasion of moles and mice. A frame that is not too wide (within 150 cm) will allow you to care for the bed on both sides. If you divide it into two strips 80 cm wide, you can even make it yourself greenhouse, passing the film over both landings. It is worth noting that it is the high beds that provide the most early harvest first salads, and then picky vegetables. The only problem is more frequent watering, since water does not stay in such land for a long time.

Despite all the difficulties at the beginning, the planting justifies the efforts put into it and serves for a long time without bringing any damage. special troubles, and the garden bed looks beautiful.

Digging smart garden bed for fragrant herbs you only need to apply once, before planting the seedlings. Then it requires a minimum of attention and care

At the beginning of each dacha season, many owners of the treasured six hundred square meters are concerned about the same issue - arranging beds in their dacha. And even if the layout of the beds on a summer cottage has been formed over the years, you still want to use something innovative to increase productivity and use it more rationally. usable area site, and give it an aesthetic appearance.

It’s not difficult to arrange garden beds at your dacha with your own hands, the main thing is timely planning, and in order for this to work out rationally, you need to carefully think through several points. Below we will consider the main criteria that must be taken into account when determining places for growing in the garden. various types plants.

When arranging beds at the dacha:

It is necessary to divide the site into sunny zones. Determine which places are constantly exposed to sunlight, and which areas are predominantly in the shadows. Since not all garden crops need a lot of sunlight. It can be very beneficial for some plants and destructive for others.
Then you should allocate places high humidity, and arid zones. For example, next to a pond, if there is one on the site, it is better to plant moisture-loving plants.
Next you need to determine the location of the cardinal points. It is recommended to plant shrubs and trees on the northern side of the site to protect against cold winds, and on the southern side the site can be left open.
Then, in accordance with the obtained zones and cardinal directions, you can determine in which areas which plants to grow.
Draw up a layout of the beds in accordance with the above points. In the case of using centralized water, determine routes for supplying water to the site.

Existing types of beds

At the moment, there are many innovative solutions in the direction of arranging a garden plot. Basically, gardeners use standard types of beds, but their use is not suitable for all crops. There are no universal beds on which you can grow any type of garden plants. Therefore for everyone a separate type plants, the most suitable types of beds are used for it.

Regular beds

The most popular type of beds are those made at soil level. To arrange them, no special structures are required; you just need to dig up and loosen the soil. Such beds are well suited for growing cold-resistant garden crops such as cabbage, potatoes, and other root vegetables. In some cases, ridges are built on the beds in which plants are planted.

Raised beds

Multi-layered raised beds are well suited for growing cucumbers and green crops. Their height can reach 40 centimeters. To get neat garden beds in your dacha, you need to build a border, since without it, after watering or rain, the top layers of soil may crumble. How to fence such a garden bed depends only on the imagination of the summer resident.

Making a raised bed is not difficult, following simple steps step by step:

Before you raise the beds in your dacha, you need to mark them.
Remove the fertile layer from the soil.
Install borders around the perimeter of the bed.
Lay a fine mesh to protect against pests.
Create several layers of small branches and foliage, sprinkling each layer with soil.
The final fertile layer should be filled with chernozem. Its thickness must be at least 30 centimeters.

This design of beds has many advantages. Since the humus of compost layers generates heat, plants can be planted earlier than in beds at soil level. Due to the heat generated, plants develop faster. Thanks to early boarding And rapid growth plants, it is possible to get up to two harvests per season. In addition, the beds do not need to be dug up, since their service life is several years. A bed like this would work well for garlic.

Vertical beds

In order to increase productivity, you can use it at your summer cottage. They are not suitable for all types of plants; such beds are mainly used for strawberries and remontant strawberries.

Vertical beds are made in several ways:

A self-built strawberry pyramid bed - the dimensions of which are correctly calculated - can produce a harvest one and a half times greater than the same planted area traditional way. This is achieved by increasing planting density.

Neighborhood of garden crops

When planning the planting of garden crops, it is very important to distribute the plants so that they do not affect negative influence Each other. In addition, “predecessors”, that is, plants that grew on the site before, are of great importance. Gardeners have rules for planting garden crops based on the compatibility of plants and the choice of planting site based on what was grown in that area last season.

If you follow the rules for growing plants in one bed, you can plant several garden crops that will not only not interfere with each other, but also promote mutual growth. For example, a spice bed at the dacha can successfully combine 13 plants: fennel, rosemary, lemon balm, thyme, lofant, oregano, marjoram, sage, snakehead, savory, lavender, hyssop, Dubrovnik.

Combinations of a successful neighborhood in the garden:

We make beds at the dacha with our own hands

Every gardener wants to see beautiful beds on his plot. There are two ways to implement this. The first thing is to buy ready-made borders for garden beds, which are made of galvanized steel and coated with a polymer layer. Such systems are mounted using mounting pegs and corner fastenings. With their help, you can make beautiful beds at your dacha with your own hands, of almost any type.

If you don’t want to use ready-made structures, then improvised materials will do for arranging a garden bed at your dacha. This is slate, old boards, galvanized sheets - you can do it simply and beautifully. Very often, gardeners throw away everything that can be used to make garden beds as unnecessary. If you use your imagination, even cobblestones can come in handy, from which you can make beautiful ones using a solution. Space for activities in in this direction, limited only creative thinking gardener

Before you make garden beds at your dacha with your own hands, you should think about its size. The width of the bed should be such that you can easily reach its center with your hands. You need to understand that optimal size beds at the dacha is the size of the plot area at which it is convenient to cultivate it. Optimal width is considered 0.7-1 meter. In most cases, the length of the beds can be any.

In order for the plants to be easy access, it is recommended to make paths in the country between the beds. Very often, gardeners dig up an entire part of the plot, and then trample paths that divide the garden into beds. This design of beds is suitable for creating unpaved paths designed for one season. In order not to waste time every year on arranging paths, it is advisable to lay them before making beds, while the soil is harder. You can use many options for how to design the paths. You can post them paving slabs or brick, fill with crushed stone, concrete with mortar.

Forming garden beds at the dacha is a responsible and time-consuming process, which determines how garden plot It will be beautiful, comfortable and most importantly fertile.

Despite all the difficulties that arise when arranging a dacha plot, setting up beds in a dacha does not require a large budget and can be done by one person. For some, dacha is hard work that takes time and effort. Some people consider working in the countryside a vacation. In a sense, both are right, since everything depends on how competently and rationally the dacha plot is arranged. Of course, a modern greenhouse with heated beds and automatic system Irrigation is easier to process than unplowed virgin soil without the use of running water. Country cottage area in the literal sense, it can be a “slave plantation” for some, and a resort for others, depending on how much work is put into it.

How to properly arrange beds on a site for high yields

Owners summer cottages Over time, they notice that certain crops produce greater yields when planted in certain place vegetable garden But there is an opportunity to receive bountiful harvest regularly if careful planning of the land is carried out.

Land preparation

Initially, the area that you have chosen for the beds needs to be processed, dug up and plant debris removed. If there was previously a building at the chosen location that you demolished, you need to remove all construction debris, and there will be a lot of it: glass, wood chips and nails.

Source: Depositphotos

Planning a site is not difficult if you have a compass or exact landmarks of the cardinal directions

Ideally, of course, bring new soil to such a site, because there is a possibility that the soil is no longer fertile.

The most important thing is to prepare the bottom layer of soil. If it is dense, then moisture will accumulate on it all the time, which is why the rhizomes of plants can rot. In order to loosen the soil, it is better to use a cultivator - this will be difficult to do manually. And give some soil for testing, so you will find out the acidity level, because there is a possibility that the soil is not suitable for growing crops.

How to arrange beds on the site

Correct placement of all crops on plot of land This will not only increase their productivity, but will also significantly reduce the number of sick and dead plants. This will also make it possible to reduce watering, and the ripening of vegetables, fruits and berries will occur much earlier. Many gardeners have also noticed that crops grown in a properly located area last much longer.

For proper zoning of land it is important:

1. Draw up a schematic plan of the vegetable garden indicating all the buildings, shrubs and trees on it.
2. List all types of crops proposed for planting and determine them according to their requirements for soil and climate the best place for landing.
3. Take into account the admissibility and priority of the proximity of different cultures.
4. Schematically indicate on the plan the size of the beds and the plants that will be planted there.

This kind of work seems difficult to do. For this, you can hire a specialist in the field landscape design, which can easily be required project. But it is not difficult to carry out such calculations independently. And having done this once, you can forget what a bad harvest is.

How to properly place beds according to cardinal directions

When deciding to arrange the beds correctly, taking into account the cardinal directions, the first question that arises is in which direction to extend them - from west to east or from north to south. It is important to take into account the region in which the land is located:

In the central and northern regions, landing should be carried out in a direction from north to south. This way there will be enough light for all plants;
IN southern regions The direction of planting crops should be from west to east. This will allow the plants to provide a little shade for each other and prevent the soil from overheating.

But placing beds on a site oriented to the cardinal directions is not always advisable. For example, beds running north to south are good for low plants And horizontal section. In this case, there will be enough light and the water will not stagnate.

If this tall plants, then suitable option there will be an arrangement from west to east, so that the morning and evening rays of the sun can freely penetrate the rows of plants and illuminate each of them.

Source: Depositphotos

Your garden is located in a regular spawn zone strong winds? Landing must be carried out across the movement of air currents

When the site has significant unevenness, the beds in these places should be located exclusively across the slope. At the same time, the south side will be ideal for growing vegetables.

What to consider when planning

You have completed the first stage, but to go further and plan the location of the beds, you need to take into account some factors.

Lighting

Most crops love the sun and well-lit areas. Only some plants can grow in partial shade, e.g. onion. That is, in the garden bed on which the shadow of a fence, house or other buildings falls, you can plant it and some types of herbs. The harvest, of course, will be small, but other crops are unlikely to produce anything in a shaded area.

Culture compatibility

By planting a cucumber next to beets, you will get a good harvest of these vegetables. But cucumbers will not get along next to tomatoes - they have different preferences for soil moisture levels. Dill extends the fruiting period of cucumbers, and garlic and onions protect against pests. Legumes stimulate the growth of cucumbers. But there is a catch here too. Beans also stimulate the growth of potatoes, spinach, corn, radishes, radishes and basil. By the way, basil also helps legumes and fights weevil.

Good neighbors for tomatoes are onions, celery, lettuce, corn, radishes, garlic, radishes and spinach. And if you plant tomatoes next to cabbage, the cabbage butterfly will stop spoiling the harvest, because it cannot stand the smell of tomato tops.

Cabbage grows well with other crops, but its best neighbors are onions and potatoes. Also lettuce and celery: they drive away flea beetles from cabbage, and dill drives away aphids.

For example, plant onions or garlic among strawberries and you will forget about gray rot and strawberry weevil. And parsley planted along the edges of the bed will drive away slugs. In general, garlic is considered a good helper against pests - because of its smell, pests will not spoil the crops. Aphids react especially sharply to it: plant garlic, and it will disappear in a couple of days.

Beets, in turn, have a positive effect on the growth and development of beans, potatoes, spinach and tomatoes. And all due to the fact that its root vegetables secrete a liquid that has antibiotic properties. That is, beets not only stimulate growth, but also improve the health of crops, especially carrots.

The best neighbors for carrots, in addition to beets, are tomatoes, radishes, peas, lettuce, sage, parsley, spinach and onions. The most interesting thing is that there is a carrot fly and an onion fly. But carrots cannot stand the smell of onions, and onions cannot stand the smell of carrots.

What crops used to grow on the site?

Firstly, only beans, potatoes, tomatoes and strawberries can be planted in one area for several years, but others need to be swapped every year.

Secondly, consider what crops you planted that season. For example, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and legumes are recommended to be planted in the place where cabbage used to be. But you can’t plant pumpkins, radishes, carrots and cucumbers in its place.

Planning your beds is half the battle. In addition, it is very important to know how to alternate crops.