Nowadays you won’t surprise anyone with uneven floors. Such bases are difficult to finish, and they do not look aesthetically pleasing.

Drywall sheets help solve the problem of uneven surfaces. In some cases, they are simply installed with glue, but more often than not, gypsum board panels need to be installed on a frame structure made from a profile.

Peculiarities

Drywall is a very popular and common material, which is most often used in repair and construction work. Not only are various structures made from it (arches, niches, furniture), but this material is also used to level various bases.

Thus, it is not possible to finish walls with differences and protruding areas due to the indicated defects. To solve this problem, use various materials, For example, OSB sheets, chipboard panels or plasterboard sheets. The last options are used most often.

It is not always possible to install drywall with glue, thereby leveling the base. Much more often it is necessary to construct a profile frame, on which the gypsum board will be attached in the future.

The main feature of this design is that it takes up a certain amount of free space. This nuance should be taken into account if you plan to level the floors in the house. For this reason in very small rooms it is not always possible to equip a frame from a profile.

However, the use of a profile is a priority in installing drywall.

Such designs have many positive qualities:

First of all, it should be noted that profile frames are characterized by ideal geometry. When using a bar, the material often has to be sorted out, which is why a considerable portion of it is sent to waste due to kinks. There are no such problems with profile elements.
Metal profile frames always remain constant, regardless of humidity levels or temperature regime. Wooden parts They cannot boast of such properties - in conditions of high humidity, wood swells, and when dried it undergoes deformation.

Any changes to the sheathing can lead to damage and cracking of drywall, so metal backing is best suited for it.

Profile bases are durable. The same block cannot boast of a long lifespan. Over time, various damage may appear on the tree, destructive fungus and mold. After 10-15 years, a timber frame will lose its former reliability and strength, which cannot be said about metal structures.
A metal frame can be installed in almost any room, since it is not afraid of temperature changes and other external factors.
Today, stores sell many high-quality fasteners that allow you to secure the structure to the base as tightly and reliably as possible.
It is quite possible to assemble such a structure with your own hands. Of course, to do this you need to follow clear instructions so as not to make any mistakes, but every master can cope with this.

Using profile frames The result is perfectly smooth, neat and stable foundations.
To construct a frame from a profile, you do not need to use special expensive tools.
A profile frame will not cost the craftsman much.
Even if the profile is damaged, it is very easy to restore.
Before installing such a structure, there is no need to carefully prepare the walls.
The metal profile is not afraid of fire. It is not flammable and does not support combustion like wooden structures.

Profile frames for drywall are not ideal. They also have some disadvantages:

despite the fact that metal profiles are relatively inexpensive, they are still more expensive than wooden parts;
due to the small number of thread turns, fasteners may accidentally fall out of the guides, which will negatively affect the stability of the structure;
metal sheathing may be subject to corrosion;
Some frame structures are quite complex, so not every home craftsman can handle them on his own.

To make the frame truly reliable and durable, you need to buy high-quality materials that are free from defects and damage. If all rules and regulations are observed, the result will be a smooth and neat surface that can be easily finished.

Types of structures

The choice of its base directly depends on where the frame will be installed. For example, one frame is used to assemble a box for a bathroom, and another is used to level the walls or ceiling.

Today, there are several types of profiles with certain symbols:

PS. This profile is rack-mount. It has a U-shaped structure with longitudinal grooves. It is used as vertical racks.
PP. This profile is a ceiling profile. It has 3 longitudinal grooves. It is to this material that plasterboards are attached.
Mon. This is a guide profile that serves as a frame for walls. The same element is used in the construction of partitions. The PN profile is fixed both on the floor and on the ceiling, ultimately forming a kind of frame for the future structure.

PU. This is the name of the corner profile, which is designed to secure corners. PU can be external and internal.
PNP. This is a ceiling guide profile. It is addressed when constructing a suspended base. Such profiles are attached to the walls and guide the ceiling profile.
PA. This profile is arched. It is used to design arched openings. Besides, this type profile is perfect for arranging complex suspended structures non-standard shape.

Frames are used for plaster covering not only walls, but also ceilings. Ceiling structures are different. The simplest and most uncomplicated are single-level frames, which serve as the basis for multi-level ceilings.

Single-level frames are created easily and simply. The main condition that must be observed is attach frame parts to the base as securely as possible. The final stage in in this case The sheathing will be covered with plasterboard.

When installing a single-level structure, it is extremely important to use high-quality measuring tools. It is equally important to adhere to the correct horizon, and also take care in advance of electrical wiring and other communications located on the ceiling.

Leave extra space for light (10-15 cm will be enough). If you follow this rule, it will be easier to install lighting devices.

The main advantages of single-level ceiling frames are:

maintaining the attractive appearance of the finished surface, despite any changes to the foundation or its shrinkage;
the ceiling height in the room will not change much from such a design, which is especially important for compact areas;
such designs perfectly hide various defects and unevenness of the ceiling;
behind a single-level frame covered with plasterboard, you can hide the electrical wiring;
with the help of such cladding you can protect your home from noise coming from neighboring apartments.

If you are a fan of more original design ideas, then you will like the multi-level design. Such frames are installed on concrete plates floors. Then on each layer the next layer is installed.

The frames for such ceilings are more complex. It is recommended to make them only experienced craftsmen . A beginner runs the risk of not being able to cope with such work. Multi-level frames allow you to create beautiful ceiling structures from plasterboard.

Such details not only decorate the interior, but can also act as an element of zoning the room.

Scope of application

Profile frames are used quite often. Such designs are reliable and durable, which is why they are chosen by both beginners and experienced craftsmen when renovating a house.

Let's look at the areas in which frames made from plasterboard profiles are used today. These basics are used for:

designing arches;
strengthening existing structures;
sound insulation of the room (insulation can be both internal and external);
construction of shelves and niches different sizes;

installation suspended ceiling;
installation of the box;
cladding uneven walls or damaged floors;
designing a partition;
arrangement of door and window openings.

In all of the above cases, a profile frame is used, onto which sheets of plasterboard are subsequently hemmed.

After all the work is completed, these structures can be finished - painted, wallpapered or covered with a plaster mixture.

Important nuances

When constructing a reliable frame from metal profile It is very important to consider the following nuances:

Before proceeding with plasterboard cladding, it is important to lay out the electrical cables and all plumbing pipes.
The frame should be as reliable and strong as possible. In addition, it must be rigid in order to easily withstand various loads.
Plasterboard boards must be installed in a checkerboard pattern.
All sheets coming after the starting parts must be connected in the center of the metal profile.

Before laying gypsum board sheets, you need to securely screw the entire frame onto self-tapping screws. Pay special attention to the corners.
To make the structure as strong as possible, you should install a corner and also cover it with plasterboard sheets; in this area it is recommended to maintain a step of 30 cm.
To assemble the frame, it is necessary to use only high-quality and reliable materials.
When marking the ceiling and walls, you need to consider one thing important condition: all joints located between gypsum board sheets must be located directly on the profile.

If you take into account all the listed nuances when making a base for drywall, the frame will be strong, reliable and durable.

Tools

It is possible to make a frame structure for installing plasterboard sheets with your own hands. To do this you need to stock up on everything necessary tools and devices.

These include:

hammer;
ruler;
roulette;
dowels;
perforator;
pencil;

plumb line with a load;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
bubble or laser level;

cross and straight connectors;
pendants;
metal profiles.

As for metal profiles, here it is very important to buy copies without damage or creases. Be sure to carefully inspect these parts before paying - deformed guides will be very difficult to work with, and the result may disappoint you.

Installation subtleties

If you have stocked up on all the necessary materials and tools, then you can proceed to the direct construction of the frame from the profile.

Let's look at the step-by-step instructions for installing profile frames using the example of arranging a partition:

It must be assumed that the partition must have sufficient rigidity. This is especially important if the frame structure does not rest on two main walls.
Work should begin with fastening the guides. To do this, use a dowel with a screw and follow a step of 40-50 cm.
Next you need to install the vertical posts. They are fastened to each other with special horizontal ties.
The racks are attached with the front side to one of the wall ceilings.

As a result, it turns out that both sides of the partition will have an edge necessary for installing plasterboard sheets.
If you want to insulate a structure or close communications in it, then you need to select profiles of appropriate sizes.
All components frame structure are fixed using metal screws.
The side parts need to be installed wooden block suitable dimensions to make the structure stronger and more reliable.

After this, you can begin filing gypsum board sheets.

If you are constructing a frame in doorway, then you should follow another instruction:

First you need to assemble the door frame with a pre-installed door leaf.
Insert fiberboard or hardboard wedges to create the required gaps.
Next, you need to set up the racks adjacent to the doorway. They need to be fixed in a vertical position and additionally reinforced with a block of wood.
Then you need to apply mounting foam and secure the box with self-tapping screws.

This method of constructing a frame is considered quite complex, but it is best suited for cases where the opening was not initially provided.

When arranging a skylight, you need to consider the following nuances:

you need to install 2 first horizontal lintels: one - from above, and the second - from below;
It is recommended to supplement the vertical racks with wooden mortgages.

The easiest way is to construct a frame on the walls. Let's take a closer look at how to install it correctly this design on this basis:

First you need to apply markings. It is desirable that the profile is located as close to the wall as possible. However, this rule ceases to apply if you plan to insulate the structure.
The marking must begin from the floor, and then transfer the necessary data to the ceiling.
After this, you can move on to the marks on the side ceilings and the main surface.
Do not forget that the pitch of the rack profile should be from 50 to 55-60 cm.

Next you need to drill for the fasteners. At this stage, you can immediately install the U-shaped brackets.
After this, all the constituent elements of the sheathing should be secured. First, a guide profile (PN) is installed to obtain a closed-type structure into which the rack profiles (SP) will be inserted.
Use metal screws to screw the profiles to each other (both top and bottom).
The rack parts must be attached to the hangers.

Suspensions often extend beyond the profile. The protruding elements must be bent inward so that there is no interference with the installation of plasterboard sheets.

If you want to make the frame more rigid, you need to use horizontal ties. They can be made from the metal profile itself, which must be cut in accordance with the required dimensional parameters. However, you should leave a small margin. Particular attention should be paid to the fastening of these parts.

As mentioned above, plasterboard is often used to cover the ceiling, creating single-tier and multi-tier structures. To make them, it is also necessary to make a frame from a profile.

Its device must be made as follows:

First, you need to perform a calculation and apply markings to the ceiling at the places where the suspensions are attached. In this case, you need to maintain a distance of 120 cm from the walls and the next element.
Thus, a line of fastening of the main profile parts is created.
There should be a distance of 50 cm between the supporting guides.
The supporting profile located closer to the wall should be installed 10 cm from the ceiling, and the next one - 40 cm from it.
Suspensions must be attached to the ceiling with the smooth side. Apply sealing tape to these parts in advance. Leave a distance of 1 m between them, and 120 cm between the rows.
Next, you need to tightly secure the ceiling profile. If its length is not enough, then you will have to increase (that is, lengthen) this part yourself using an extension cord.
Next you need to install guides between the supporting profiles. One edge of the profile does not need to be fixed at all, while the other is placed in a “crab”. At the same time, markings of the location of these parts are applied to the wall, so that later the drywall can be properly hemmed.

As you can see, assembling a frame for installing drywall is not as difficult as it might seem. The main thing is to work slowly and connect all the necessary parts together as reliably as possible.

If it seems to you that you cannot cope with such work on your own, it is better to contact experienced craftsmen who will design profile design in short time.

It is advisable to carry out the installation of the frame and drywall together with an assistant. In addition, it is recommended to use sheets with a side of no more than 90 cm.
When purchasing profiles for constructing a frame, you must Special attention give them their purpose. For example, you cannot use guides intended for the ceiling to decorate walls (and vice versa).
When assembling and installing the frame, you cannot use a grinder, since the torque of this tool is very high, and galvanized profiles are not very thick. Because of this, the material being cut heats up very quickly and becomes deformed.
Before proceeding with the installation of a metal profile frame, you should complete all work related to communications, which in the future you plan to “hide” behind drywall. Stretch all the wires in advance, mount sockets and other necessary parts.

As for the wiring for the lamp, it is better to leave it with a small margin to make it more convenient to connect the device.

In the process of applying markings to walls or ceilings, one important condition must be taken into account: all joints between plasterboard sheets must be on the profile.
After installation metal frame An annoying rattling sound may occur. To avoid such a problem, you need to glue a sealing tape between the surface and the guides.
Particular attention should be paid to partitions in which it is planned to install a doorway. In this case, the lower guide needs to be trimmed, and additional vertical posts must be installed.
Measure the length of each structural element separately, since the structure of the rooms is modern apartments is rarely perfectly correct. When taking measurements, reduce the distance between the ceilings by 2-3 cm.

The frames of the partitions do not need to be attached to the walls, so the cells in them should be small. Experts advise forming them from squares with a side of 40 cm. This way, you can achieve optimal structural rigidity.

To calculate the pitch of the frame, you need to rely on the dimensional parameters of the drywall sheet. Each part must be securely fastened to 3 rack or ceiling profiles.
When you are constructing a frame on walls or ceilings, it is especially important to ensure that the angles between all structural elements are perfectly straight. You can use a square for this.
The profiles must be fastened together and fixed to the base/hangers using self-tapping screws with press washers.
The connection of all the necessary frame parts should be made as reliable and strong as possible. This way you will make the structure as strong as possible.
When finishing the steps of stairs, a special corner profile with sliding is used. This element has an anti-slip surface, thereby ensuring the safety of the structure as a whole.

It is permissible to join profiles with a slight overlap. This way you can avoid the appearance of gaps on the base.
Always strictly adhere to the frame construction technique. If you neglect certain stages of the work, the result may be an incorrect design and will not last as long.
Always install ceiling structures on suspensions. Their smooth side should face down. It is this that in this case serves as the basis to which the gypsum board will be installed.
Under no circumstances should a multi-level ceiling be left without hangers. This design can lead to cracks throughout the entire surface of the ceiling.
Always attach drywall sheets with the right side up. For example, if you install moisture-resistant sheets incorrectly, this may negatively affect the properties of the finished coating.

Beautiful examples

From plasterboard, hemmed to frame basis, we get very impressive elements that decorate the interior. For example, it could be a multi-level ceiling with multiple recesses square shape. Such a finish will look expensive and aristocratic, especially if you make it white, cream or beige.

From frame construction with plasterboard you get very attractive and original partitions . These elements may have through shaped “windows”.

They often contain small plaster shelves.

Look especially bright and impressive multi-level ceilings with LED backlight. If you want to add some zest to the interior, it is possible to place ribbons on each level different color and reinforce them spotlights. However, it is worth considering that such designs look organic only in large rooms with high ceilings.

Made from plasterboard attached to a metal frame, can be built very beautiful niche and place it above the head of the bed. Recesses in such a design should be equipped with recessed lamps.

Please note that a niche that is too colorful and bright is not suitable for a bedroom. Stick to more neutral and calming shades.

The work of creating a frame from a metal profile for plasterboard is perceived by many as a very simple undertaking that does not require compliance with certain rules. Because of this, situations arise in which the created surface from gypsum board slabs ends up with numerous shortcomings, to eliminate which a lot of effort and financial costs have to be made.

Of course, the work itself is not that difficult. Literally anyone can cope, but there are some nuances that must be taken into account. And also carry out the installation steps correctly.

There are two main materials for the construction of the sheathing - wooden beams and metal profiles. It is the second type of material that is most preferable.

A metal profile is such due to certain characteristics:

For the most part (with proper storage and transportation) – has no disadvantages (curvature). But, if you choose timber, you will have to sort through a lot of material.
Metal elements can be used in almost any room, and also not pay attention to temperature fluctuations. This means that the surface will not be deformed.
Galvanized parts can last a very long time. Therefore, they can be used even in rooms with a lot of moisture. They are also not exposed to fungi and rot.
For fastening the profile there are various elements, which allow you to create a reliable and strong structure.

Material selection

It is worth paying attention to the choice necessary materials, especially when choosing sheathing parts. There are the following types of profiles that allow you to create a frame for plasterboard walls:

Guide (PN). This element is intended to create a structure that will serve to secure the rack profile. It is the fastening of this type of profile that will determine how the surface will look in the future.
Rack-mount (PS). Used to create lathing or other partitions. It can be given various curvilinear options.

A special place is occupied by parts for ceiling structures: ceiling profile (PP), ceiling guide profile (CNP).

You should also consider using the following additional elements:

Corner profile (PU). Maybe external and internal.
Arched profile (PA). Used to create arches.
Suspension (U-shaped). Used for fastening structures to walls and ceilings.
Connector (“Crab”). Very convenient for fastening perpendicular parts together.
Extension. Connects different profile sections together.
Dowel and screws (for metal).

It is at this stage that many people do very important mistake. It consists in acquiring a non-specialized profile. Namely, they confuse ceiling elements with wall elements.

Necessary tool

Naturally, attaching a metal frame under drywall is simply impossible without using special tools. But don’t worry, everyone will always have everything they need. home handyman.

What you will need:

A jigsaw with metal files or scissors for cutting galvanized steel.
Attention! It’s worth noting right away that you can’t use an angle grinder. The reason is quite simple. The torque of such a tool is very high, and the galvanized profile is quite thin. Because of this, the material being cut quickly heats up and becomes deformed. The destruction of the protective layer and the appearance of rust will also follow.
Plumb and level (or more modern electronic devices). Only the use of these devices allows you to create an even frame from a metal profile.
Ruler, tape measure and pencil (marker).
Drills or hammer drills for creating holes in walls. Their choice depends on the surface material. And also do not forget about drills or drills.
A set of screwdrivers, or better yet a screwdriver. If you have the necessary skills, you can also use a drill (by setting the required power).

Installation work

Everything you need is prepared, the tool is waiting in the wings. It seems that work can already begin. After all, the sooner you start, the sooner everything will end, but there’s no need to rush. First you need to decide what events will be held. Installation of the frame has features when different types work.

The installation of a frame for creating partitions from gypsum plasterboard has significant differences from the installation of lathing for sheathing walls with plasterboard

Walls

In principle, working with walls is considered the easiest. This is where it is best to start, if this does not conflict with the stages of repair work.

Advice! To avoid unpleasant (rattling) noise that may occur after installing a metal sheathing, sealing tape is glued between the surface and the guides.

Let's get started:

Suspensions have the peculiarity of extending beyond the profile. That is, protruding “ears” are formed. They need to be bent. This should be done inward so as not to interfere with the installation of gypsum plasterboards.

If it is necessary to give the frame under plasterboard additional rigidity, then horizontal ties are used for this. They are easy to make from the profile itself, which is cut into right size(with a small margin). Pay attention to their fastening.

They often do this:

Using metal scissors, cut the ends of the profile along the edges.
The ribs are bent. Through them, the ties are screwed to the racks. The central section remains without a self-tapping screw, otherwise you will end up with a bump.

Partitions

These structures are created to divide the room, as well as to completely separate one from the other. In principle, the work scheme is similar to that presented above, but there are some technical features.

Features of creating door and window openings

A frame made of metal profiles for drywall often requires the creation of various openings in it. Doors are handled as follows:

The door frame is being assembled. In which, first, the door leaf is hung. To set the necessary gaps (after all, the box is not secured), insert wedges from fiberboard or hardboard.
Now they begin to place the racks that are adjacent to the doorway. They are placed vertically and reinforced wooden beam. Apply polyurethane foam and tighten the box with self-tapping screws.

On a note! The described method is quite labor-intensive; it is more suitable for cases where the doorway was not provided for in advance. Therefore, it is better to spend time on preliminary calculations and markings, as well as determine the size of the door leaf. Then you can immediately create a doorway (with the necessary margin) and quickly install a door in it.

When creating a light window, there are the following features:

It is necessary to install two horizontal jumpers (top and bottom).
It is better to make vertical racks with wooden mortgages.

Measures to strengthen the frame and improve sound insulation

It is worth noting that simple sheathing does not have sufficient rigidity. Therefore, if necessary, you need to strengthen it. This is usually needed in rooms where furniture will be placed on the walls.

The easiest ways:

Instead of SP and NP of 50 mm, they take 75 or 100 mm.
Reduce the pitch between the posts.
Vertical elements are installed in pairs.
Mortgages in the form of wooden beams are used.

On a note! If possible, then use a completely different option. Namely, plasterboard is laid on the frame in two layers. In this case, the seams of the first layer are overlapped.

Attention is also paid to sound insulation. The fact is that the hollow frame gives a significant sound effect.

Mineral wool is placed in the frame. Therefore, the pitch of the vertical posts and lintels is immediately determined.
When creating partitions, a double-sided frame is made. Then each gypsum board slab is attached to its own side of the sheathing.

Any work requires care, even if it seems that making a frame for drywall is very simple.

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Frame made from a profile for plasterboard: components and installation procedure

This article is about what and how to assemble a frame from a profile for plasterboard. In it I will describe the procedure of work, the design of the frames and the tools used in their assembly. Let's start, however, with why the galvanized profile is optimal material for lathing.

Why profile

When assembling the frame, we have to choose between an inexpensive bar with a section of 40x40 - 50x50 mm and a profile. I strongly recommend choosing this profile for the following reasons:

He always has perfect geometry. The block usually has to be sorted out, with a significant part of the material going to waste due to bends and “propellers”;
Geometry and dimensions of galvanized steel parts remain constant with any fluctuations in humidity. Wood swells in damp weather (this, in particular, is associated with jambs being rubbed with a wooden door on rainy days) and warps when dried. Deformation of the frame often leads to the appearance of cracks in the drywall at the seams;

Reinforcement of seams solves the problem only with minor deformations. Significant bending of the block will inevitably lead to damage to the final finish.

Galvanization in residential premises serves indefinitely. The timber cannot boast of this: mold, rot and insects often lead to the loss of strength of the structure or even its destruction after 10-15 years.
Of course, methods for protecting wood from these factors exist (for example, sequential impregnation with an antiseptic and drying oil), but they deprive wood of its main advantage - low cost - and significantly increase the time spent on assembling the frame or sheathing.

Materials

Profiles

Now let’s talk about what types of galvanized profiles can be found on sale.

To assemble battens and frames, only four types are usually used:

The length of the guide profiles is 3 meters, rack and ceiling profiles are 3 or 4 meters.

In addition, if desired, construction stores can be found:

Corner perforated profile for strengthening the corners of walls and partitions;

Flexible profile for arches and vaults.

Accessories

Direct hangers are used to attach the ceiling profile to capital structures. The ears of the U-shaped suspension are equipped with perforations and are attached to the side walls of the CD.

Direct suspension. The price of the product is 4 rubles, the estimated load is 40 kilograms, packaging is 100 pieces per bag.

To connect the frame elements to each other, metal screws 9 mm long are used.

When installing guide profile hangers to solid walls and ceilings, dowel-screws measuring 6x60 or 8x80 mm are used. The size of the fastener depends, first of all, on the material of the capital structures: longer dowel-screws are useful for thick layers of loose plaster.

Tools

What tools will be required to assemble a frame from a drywall profile?

Metal shears are needed for cutting galvanized steel;

Sometimes it is cut with a grinder and a metal wheel, but this is not entirely correct. Heating during abrasive cutting causes the zinc coating to burn out, and the edge of the profile begins to rust in a humid environment.

Level and plumb. They are needed to orient the frame elements in strictly horizontal and vertical positions;
Square, tape measure, long ruler and pencil for marking;
A hammer drill with a drill for drilling holes for dowel screws;
Screwdriver. It is absolutely unrealistic to screw in several hundred metal screws with your own hands using a screwdriver.

A screwdriver is the main tool for working with drywall and galvanized profiles.

Installation

What are the most common scenarios a new builder encounters when working with drywall?

WITH wall cladding(by leveling their surface along the frame);
With installation of internal partitions(solid, with door or window openings, with shelves and niches);
With assembly suspended ceilings(horizontal, inclined and multi-level);

The photo shows a slanted plasterboard ceiling in my attic.

WITH boxes for risers, combs (horizontal intra-apartment sewerage), air ducts, etc.

Let's figure out how to make a frame in each of these cases.

Wall cladding

Mark the position of the frame border. IN general case the closer the guide profile is to the main wall, the better: so are the costs usable area rooms will be minimal. An exception is cases when the space between the main wall and the cladding is used for laying communications large diameter(sewage, air ducts) or to create niches.
The markings are first made on the floor, then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line, after which lines on the walls are drawn between marks on horizontal surfaces along a long ruler or a profile pressed against the wall;

We fasten the UD ceiling guide profile along the entire perimeter of the wall with dowel screws in increments of 50-60 cm;

Captain Obvious suggests: if there is a doorway in the wall, a gap is left in the lower part of the guide along the entire width of the opening.

The position of the ceiling profiles is marked on the main wall. They are usually mounted vertically. The step between the longitudinal axes of adjacent CDs must be exactly 60 centimeters: then the seams between adjacent gypsum board sheets (let me remind you, the standard width of a plasterboard sheet is 120 centimeters) will fall in the middle of the profile;

A pair of additional CDs are installed at the edges of the doorway, connected at the top by a jumper made of the same profile. They will allow you to sheathe slopes.

Along each line, in increments of 80 cm, straight hangers are attached with dowel screws;

Then the ceiling profiles are cut to length and inserted into the guides along the marking lines;
The ears of the suspensions are attracted to the profile aligned along the edge of the ruler or according to the rule with self-tapping screws 9 mm long. The free parts of the ears are bent towards the wall.
Each CD is attached to the UD at the top and bottom with a pair of metal screws. This completes the assembly of the frame; you can proceed to covering it with plasterboard.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of the gypsum board, at the junction of the whole sheet with the additional one, it is worth providing a horizontal jumper from the same CD. When the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common profile, the likelihood of cracks appearing along the seam is minimal. However, in the upper part of the wall, where the cladding does not experience deforming loads, with high-quality reinforcement of the seams, you can do without jumpers.

Partition

When assembling a partition, the arrangement of a frame made of a metal profile for plasterboard is noticeably different from that described above: UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles are used.

Here step-by-step instruction for frame installation:

Along the perimeter of the partition, guides are attached to the capital structures. For fastening, dowel screws with a hose of the same 50 - 60 centimeters are used. If a doorway is provided in the partition, in this case a gap is left in the lower guide along its entire width;
In increments of exactly 60 centimeters, racks from the CW profile cut to the required length are inserted into the lower and upper guides. It is better to take height measurements for each rack separately: differences in the distance between floor slabs can be measured in centimeters;

When marking the position of the racks, make marks not on the profile, but on the surfaces of the floor and ceiling at a slight distance from the guide. These marks will help you find the studs when sheathing the frame with drywall.

Each rack is attached to the guides with metal screws.

Doors, windows

Installation in a partition deserves a separate description.

It is performed at the frame assembly stage in the following order:

The door leaf is hung on hinges and wedged into the box with cardboard folded in several layers, scraps of hardboard, plywood or wood chips. This is necessary so that the door does not rub the jambs after installation;
One of the racks adjacent to the doorway is installed in a strictly vertical position and attached to the guides;
A strip is applied to it polyurethane foam or sealant, after which the stand is attached to the door frame with self-tapping screws 16 - 25 mm long in increments of no more than 50 cm;
On the opposite side, a second stand is attached in a similar way;
Both racks are connected by a horizontal jumper from the same CW profile. Method of attachment to a horizontal crossbar door frame- same.

A skylight (for example, in a bathroom wall) is mounted in the same way. There are only two differences:

For obvious reasons, a gap in the bottom guide is not needed;
There are two horizontal jumpers between the posts - at the top and bottom of the window opening.

Arches

The arch frame is bent from a special flexible profile, as well as from a guide or rack cut in increments of 10-15 cm. The arch becomes rigid during the process of covering the gypsum board; additional reinforcing bridges between the elements of its frame are possible, but not required.

Gain

In rooms with significant loads on the walls (in an apartment this is primarily the hallway and kitchen) they need a reinforced frame. Rigidity with respect to horizontal loads is achieved, first of all, by increasing the width of the rack and guide profile from 50 to 75 or 100 millimeters. If this is undesirable due to the small area of the premises, you can make the frame as strong as possible in other ways:

Reducing the step between the posts from 60 to 40 centimeters;
By connecting rack profiles in pairs;
Putting it in the racks wooden mortgages— bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

In addition: if the expected loads on the walls are significant, they are sheathed with plasterboard in two layers. Sheets of the first and second layers are attached with the obligatory overlap of horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 20 - 30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50 - 70 pieces per sheet.

Noise insulation

A hollow gypsum board partition has an unpleasant feature: it acts as a resonator, amplifying sound vibrations. Soundproofing a wall requires an integrated approach:

Placed under the guide profile damper tape , which will eliminate the transmission of low-frequency vibrations to capital structures. Instead, you can use foamed polyethylene cut into strips of appropriate width;
The frame is filling mineral wool. It is better to use glued slabs measuring 1000x600 mm: they will fit between the posts without being cut in width, and will not cake, leaving voids in the wall filling;

Finally, most effective solution— acoustically decouple the surfaces of the partition from each other, creating two independent frames for them. In this case, along the perimeter of the partition on minimum distance two guide profiles are mounted apart from each other; the racks are installed in them in a checkerboard pattern so that each rack is in contact with only one side of the skin.

Captain Obviousness suggests: in this case, the thickness of the partition will increase to at least 100 millimeters.

Shelves, niches

To place niches or shelves in the partition, we will also have to build two independent frames. The basis of the shelves are the horizontal jumpers between the racks from the CW profile. When the partition thickness is more than 15-20 centimeters, the shelves are reinforced with additional jumpers between the two frames.

Suspended ceiling

How to properly make a frame from a plasterboard profile when installing a suspended ceiling?

General principles of frame assembly single-level ceiling- the same as when facing a wall with plasterboard: ceiling and ceiling guide profiles are used; CDs are attached to the ceiling or beams with direct hangers.

There are, however, differences:

It is better to reduce the step between the hangers to 60 cm, which will eliminate the possibility of the ceiling sagging;
It is advisable to align ceiling profiles not along a ruler or edge of another profile, but along several guide threads stretched across them. First, the CDs are pressed to the ceiling by the curved ears of the suspensions, then they are released one by one, aligned in a horizontal plane along the thread and finally attached to the suspension.

If the ceiling is multi-level, the difference can be created in several ways:

By combining straight hangers and extended hangers with spokes;

Using rack and guide profiles. CW is used as vertical posts, and UW connects them and provides attachment to the floor;

Finally, with a small room height, the higher part of the ceiling is made of plaster or leveled with plasterboard, fixed to the ceiling surface with gypsum glue and (temporarily) with dowel screws.

The last case is worth examining separately. The gypsum board is attached in the following order:

The surface of the rough ceiling is cleaned of low-adhesive coatings (flaking plaster, whitewash, paint, etc.);

Hint: plaster and whitewash can be removed with a hard steel spatula without raising dust if you first soak it with water. To do this, the ceiling is wetted with a sprayer two or three times at intervals of 10-15 minutes.

Then the surface is dusted with a brush or vacuum cleaner;
The cleaned ceiling is primed with penetrating acrylic primer(primer). The primer will prevent the surface from crumbling and will stick the remaining dust to the base. It is advisable to add an antiseptic to it, since gypsum board will limit the ventilation of the ceiling;
The sheet of plasterboard is pressed against the ceiling by assistants, after which holes for dowel screws are drilled directly through it in the ceiling. The step between the attachment points is no more than half a meter;
Pieces of gypsum glue are applied to the sheet in increments of no more than 15 cm. Along the edge of the sheet with a slight indentation from it, it is worth forming an intermittent bead of glue. Gaps will allow air to escape from the space between the gypsum board and the rough ceiling;

The gypsum board is pressed against the ceiling and fixed with dowel screws;
Then the sheet is leveled horizontally. You can raise or lower a section of the sheet by screwing in or unscrewing the dowel screws;
When the glue sets (this takes up to 6 hours), the fasteners are removed, and the holes from it are filled with plaster or acrylic putty.

Box

The easiest way to assemble a box from a plasterboard profile is from a rack and a guide profile. The guide is used for attaching the frame to the floor, ceiling and main walls, the rack is used for manufacturing vertical elements frame and jumpers between them. Jumpers, by the way, are not necessary: the frame will acquire maximum rigidity after covering it with gypsum plasterboard wall.

Different types of profiles can be combined. In the picture, the uprights are made from CW and UW, and the lintels are made from ceiling CD.

Important point: in most cases hiding communications in a permanent box is a very bad idea. Thus, risers and water supply connections, as well as sewerage, can be made hidden only if the following conditions are met:

There are no revisions or tees on the riser for cleaning;

The sewer riser is assembled from plastic pipes, each of which is fixed at the bell with a clamp, preventing its subsidence;
Water supply risers are made of polypropylene, copper or corrugated stainless pipe with maintenance-free connections (soldered or, in the case of stainless steel, compression with silicone seals).

Hide steel pipes It is strictly forbidden to put it in a non-removable box for two reasons:

They have a limited service life. Leaking pipes in the box will force you to dismantle it to repair or replace a section of the riser;
Lack of ventilation in the box will lead to condensation on the pipes cold water in summer time. Dampness will shorten the already short service life of the steel riser.

In addition: risers belong to the common property of the residents of the house, and access to them may be required at any time. For example, if there is a leak from neighbors below or above, or if the sewer riser is clogged.

A cabinet with high doors is an excellent alternative to a box.

Conclusion

I hope that this material will help the dear reader during repairs in own home or apartment. As always, you can learn more by watching the video in this article. I would appreciate your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

Frame installation of plasterboard is the most popular way to install suspended ceilings, partitions, arches and other structures made from this material.

Scheme of a metal frame for a plasterboard ceiling.

If the technology for working with gypsum boards is clear and mastered, then with your own hands you can do everything that your imagination is capable of in terms of reconstruction and decoration of the room.

But the most important thing is to learn how to make a frame for drywall. It is the basis of any design, so special requirements are imposed on its installation.

Materials and tools used to make the frame

metal profile:

Guide profile. It is represented by the product PN28/27. Used as a part that holds the rack and ceiling profiles in line.
Ceiling profile PP 60/27. It is used for mounting vertical and horizontal posts, various lintels and curved shaped structural parts.
Rack profile. Along the entire length of the product in the central part there are special grooves designed to make it much easier to attach the screws during installation of the structure. It can also be used for various types posts, lintels and curved parts.
The suspension is straight or shortened. It is a part intended for fixing the racks of their metal profiles to the walls and ceiling.
Single-level crab connector. Designed for fastening and strengthening assemblies of profiles crossed at right angles.
Various connectors for the profile, which are designed to join its sections.
Spring suspension. It will be needed if, when installing a suspended ceiling, the structure needs to be lowered more than the use of hangers will allow.
Self-tapping screws for metal SMM 3.5/51, which come in two types: sharp and with a drill-shaped end.

wooden bars.

Frame diagram for plasterboard construction from wooden blocks.

Previously, drywall was attached to wooden frames. With the advent of metal profiles, the need to use bars disappeared due to the undoubted advantages of steel:

the metal profile frame is not subject to rotting;
it will not be damaged by wood bugs;
it does not absorb moisture and is not deformed as a result;
metal racks will not dry out, crack, or begin to creak over time when the floor moves;
the profile is many times more durable than wood, cheaper and has significantly less weight.

Therefore, it makes sense to install a wooden frame for drywall with your own hands if you have at your disposal a sufficient amount of dry timber that has nowhere else to put it. You can’t rely on the timber that is on sale: in the vast majority of cases it is freshly sawn and has high humidity. If a frame is mounted from such material, it will soon become deformed as the wood begins to dry and bend.

Tools for mounting the frame.

Tools that will be needed during the work:

Hammer or impact drill.
Battery powered screwdriver.
Levels: water, construction, laser.
Tape measure, marker, pencil, square.
Knife for cutting drywall.
Metal scissors or a grinder with a thin metal disc.
If you decide to make a frame from timber, you will need saws and a jigsaw.

Related article: Crafts from cardboard boxes: toys for children and ideas for the home (39 photos)

Technology for installing a wooden frame under plasterboard

This design is easy to make with your own hands. But the job can be done in two ways: soft and hard.

Diagram of a wooden frame for a plasterboard partition.

Hard installation method:

This is the oldest and simplest method with which you can correctly install a wooden frame. Work begins with markings. If the frame is needed for the ceiling, then a horizontal line is found and marked along the walls using a water level and a paint cord. Next, the ceiling is drawn along the lines along which the timber will be attached. The step between them is 40-60 cm. If the frame needs to be mounted for walls, then similar markings are made along them.
We begin to make the strapping with our own hands: the beam is attached along the contour of the surface that needs to be sheathed with plasterboard. If you plan to install a suspended ceiling, then the trim is attached along the marking lines to the wall. If a partition is being built or a wall is being leveled, then the bars must be fastened along the entire perimeter of the area being sewn with plasterboard.
The sequence of these works is as follows: along the entire length of the bars, in increments of 30-40 cm, holes are drilled, slightly larger than a nail, with which we will mark the walls. Wood planks are applied to the wall and using a nail and a hammer we get marks. These places are drilled and inserted into the holes plastic dowels 40/60 or 40/40, or regular chops. Thus, we will make the strapping with our own hands.
We stretch a fishing line or thread between the bars, which will serve as a guide for installing vertical or horizontal posts.
In the same way as in the case of strapping, we correctly install the required strips.

Technology of “soft” installation of a wooden frame:

The main difference between this method of assembling a timber frame is the use of direct hangers: “U”-shaped brackets for working with metal profiles. Thanks to them, the speed of installation of structures increases significantly.
The hangers are attached along the marking lines for the racks in increments of 40-50 cm.
The bars are attached to them using suitable wood screws.
The technology for installing the frame is similar to assembling it from a metal profile.

How to make a frame from a metal profile for walls or ceilings

Marking the frame for a plasterboard structure: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angled ruler and a level; 2 - using a level and a pencil, make even markings for attaching the profiles; 3 - apply the profile to the markings and screw the profile to the floor and wall; 4 - to mark the place where the profile is attached, we use a plumb line; 5 - assemble the frame and check its evenness with a level.

Marking

To do this correctly important stage works, you need to understand two things: for the device interior partitions, niches, to level the walls, markings begin from the floor. The lines along which the PN 28/27 profiles will be attached are marked here. They must be strictly parallel, and the distance between them must be equal to the thickness of the partition or the distance from the base wall.

Related article: Second light in the interior of the house

Second step

Correctly transfer the markings from the floor to the ceiling. Here you will need a plumb line. With its help, we carry out the necessary projection of markings: several points are placed on the ceiling, which are combined into solid lines. Next, we calculate the location of vertical racks for working with walls, and horizontal ones for working on the ceiling. The pitch of the racks is 40-60 cm. On these lines we make marks along which we will mount the hangers. The distance between them is 40-50 cm.

Installing the guide profile PN 28/27

If we make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with our own hands, then we attach the profile along the lines on the walls. They determine the height of the first level of the structure. You should check whether the markings are applied correctly and whether they correspond to the horizontal. If we are sheathing a wall, then we attach the guides along the lines on the floor and ceiling.

Installing a rack or ceiling profile

Use metal scissors to cut the posts to the required length. At the marking points for hangers, we drill holes for dowels or anchors. If you are installing a frame for a suspended ceiling, then under no circumstances should you use plastic dowels for quick installation. The fact is that plasterboard structures are quite heavy and over time the plastic screws will come out and the ceiling will become deformed. We insert the prepared racks from the ceiling or rack profile into the guides and fix them in the hangers with SMM 3.5/51 self-tapping screws. We bend the sides of the hangers (“whiskers”) to the base surface.

Technology for installing a metal profile frame for shaped elements

Technology for installing a metal profile frame for shaped elements: 1 - use metal scissors every few cm; 2 - applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position and screw it on; 3 - dry bending of gypsum boards with cutting longitudinal cuts; 4 - screw the gypsum board to the frame.

First you need to learn how to bend the profile correctly. To do this, you need to draw a curved line on the walls, ceiling or drywall. Using metal scissors, we make cuts every 5 cm in the side walls of PP 60/27. Applying it to the line, we begin to carefully bend it to the desired position.

To install shaped elements: arches and various curved parts, you need to learn how to properly deform drywall. This will allow you to make high-quality cladding of the structure with your own hands. For these works, the gypsum board sheet must have a thickness of no more than 6 mm.

Wet bending of drywall. On one side of the sheet we do required quantity shallow punctures, about a third of the thickness of the material with a distance between points of 1.5-2 cm. Using a sponge or brush with soft bristles, we wet the surface of the sheet from the side of the punctures. We repeat the process until moisture is no longer absorbed by the plaster. We apply the plasterboard onto the pre-prepared template and fix it. After 12-20 hours the drywall will accept the required form and dry.

Dry bending of gypsum boards. This method requires care and precision. Longitudinal cuts are made on one side of the sheet, up to the depth of the cardboard on the back side of the gypsum board. These seams are milled. That is, using a sharp knife, chamfers are removed, the cutting angle of which depends on the bending diameter required to manufacture the desired part. The wider and deeper the grooves, the smoother and steeper the bend will be. After this, the drywall is attached to the template, and the cut grooves are cleaned of dust and puttied.

In any plasterboard structure, the main part is the frame, which performs the task of support. The appearance and service life of the plasterboard structure depends on how correctly it is made.

To create a frame with your own hands, use special strips of plasterboard, wooden boards or metal profiles.

Varieties without stiffeners and with them are used

Moreover, the latter option is preferable, since the metal frame is more durable and is not subject to humidity and changes in room temperature. On the building materials market you will find five types of metal profiles:

Guide. In this profile, the standard width is 50, 75 or 100 mm, and the depth is 40 mm. The width is selected depending on the thickness of the wall. Such a metal profile acts as a rail on which rack or ceiling strips are fixed.
Ceiling guide. By appearance and the purpose of this type is very similar to the first, with only one exception - it is suitable for installing the frame of plasterboard ceilings. This metal profile is attached along the perimeter of the walls.
Ceiling strips. Such metal profile elements are attached to the main ceiling using anchor clamps or special hangers. Thanks to them, the sheathing is obtained.
Rack metal profile. Suitable for assembling wall base or . Mount the profile on the guide rails.
Angular. Designed specifically for leveling or strengthening the corners of a future structure.

Markings and their explanations for profile types

Marking the base of the frame

After selecting the metal profile, we proceed to marking the base of the frame. First, mark the indentation where the frame will protrude. For walls they take 10 cm, but for the ceiling it is different, depending on what communications will be laid inside the frame. This could be electrical wiring, central heating or water supply pipes. For marking, a drawing must be created.

Creating the Frame Perimeter

After marking, installation of the frame perimeter begins. Here it is very important to ensure that it turns out even, so they will come to the rescue measuring instruments, such as tracer, laser level and roulette. As a result of this stage of creating the frame, a perfectly even rectangle is obtained, along the edges of which the starting profile is mounted.

Ready frame

Direct assembly of the frame

When the perimeter has been calculated and mounted into the wall, they begin to assemble the frame. The metal profile is attached using dowels or self-tapping screws, while dowels are best used on stone walls, and self-tapping screws on wood surfaces. After this, the main profile is attached to the hangers, which is inserted into the starting one. To make the design reliable, it is better to use checkered technology, that is, first install a transverse profile, and then perpendicular to it - a longitudinal one.

Errors that occur when creating a frame from a metal profile

Failure to comply with frame installation technology

If you deviate from the generally accepted and developed technology for installing the frame, you can get a short-lived structure, or damage the materials so that they cannot be used in the future. This is especially true on curved surfaces. Remember that during installation the metal profile must be positioned with the smooth side down, since sheets of drywall are attached to it.

Frame for a figured structure

Errors during profile cutting

The saying “measure twice and cut once” is relevant here, because if the profile is cut to the wrong size or crooked, the frame design will not fit together. In the end, it will either turn out very flimsy, or it won’t work at all. Therefore, for these purposes they use special equipment, but remember – use angular grinding machine(in other words, an angle grinder) is absolutely not allowed.

The cutting element of the tool rotates quite quickly, as a result of which the metal heats up, the galvanization melts and in the future corrosion will occur in this place. It is better to use special metal scissors, electric or manual. Cut as carefully as possible so as not to damage the opposite shelf, since this is where the drywall will be attached.

Incorrect profile selection

When purchasing building materials, choose the types that are suitable for the required purposes. For example, the wall frame cannot be made from ceiling profiles, and vice versa.

A poorly made design will quickly become unusable

You cannot use a rack-mount one instead of a guide, and so on. If this condition is violated, then no one guarantees that the frame will be reliable and stable, and the structure itself, covered with plasterboard, will cope with its tasks, which include a soundproofing function.

No hangers

On complex surfaces, many builders decide not to install hangers, but this is a gross mistake that will lead to the structure beginning to collapse over time. This happens due to the fact that the metal profiles are connected to each other rigidly and without an interlayer. After some time, cracks will certainly appear in such a ceiling or plasterboard wall. Keep in mind that the distance between the profiles should be the same, approximately 50 cm, for greater reliability.

The use of hangers is mandatory

Bending a metal profile

Metallopophile is not the same construction material, which can be bent, then straightened and installation can begin.

Such manipulations damage the integrity, as a result of which it loses rigidity and cannot guarantee the reliability of the future frame.

Installation of plasterboard sheets with the back side

Such an error will also lead to the structure quickly failing. The reason is that drywall is a moisture-resistant building material. By mounting it on the correct side, you will prevent the sheet from getting wet, which means preventing the formation of fungus.

The sheet shows which side it should be attached to.

Incorrect installation drywall

To prevent cracks and chips from appearing at the joints of drywall sheets, they must be installed correctly. To have fewer joints, it is better to use large sheets.

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