Without a doubt, if you leave the laid water supply and sewerage communications in sight, the general appearance your bathroom or toilet room will not be the most presentable. At the same time, it is not recommended to seal them tightly into the wall, since in case of problems the entire masonry will have to be dismantled. In this material we will talk about how to cover pipes in a toilet with plastic in order to disguise them without constructing a permanent wall.
Selection of necessary materials
The process of selecting material for the construction of wall panels is carried out taking into account the following requirements of regulatory documents:
- Ease of working with the material. Since the toilet is usually a fairly compact room, installation wall panel a material is required that does not take up much space and is easy to operate.
- Health safety. In a toilet room, the microclimate is usually characterized by increased temperature and humidity. Therefore, the material must be chosen that does not emit substances toxic to health in such conditions.
- Resistance to oxidation and corrosion. To build a frame for pipes in a toilet, the material for it must not only be resistant to corrosion, but also prevent it from spreading to other surfaces.
Several varieties meet all of the above requirements. building materials.
In particular, the most popular options are:
- Plastic panels.
- Moisture-resistant drywall.
- MDF boards.
- Plywood with moisture-resistant impregnation.
It is worth noting that for home use, plastic panels are in the highest demand. However, even if you have finally decided to hide the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, consider how harmoniously this material will look against the background of the overall interior of your toilet room.
This is important because in case of any discrepancies in color scheme, additional costs will be required, while the lack of correctly selected material can be purchased at any time.
Here are some advantages of covering pipes in a toilet with plastic panels:
- work on covering communications with plastic panels does not require significant physical and time expenditures;
- the weight of such a false wall is very small, and for urgent or scheduled repairs of communications it is very easy to disassemble;
- since plastic is smooth and not prone to corrosion, it is considered one of the most hygienic materials for use in a bathroom;
- such panels perform a soundproofing function;
- a wide range of colors of this material makes it possible to choose suitable design panels to harmoniously fit them into the interior of the bathroom;
- For a fairly small amount you can get fairly high-quality and durable material.
However, they are not deprived plastic panels and some disadvantages, the most significant of which is their low fire resistance. Although some manufacturers of such products claim that they are self-extinguishing and heat-resistant, the smoke released when plastic ignites can be very toxic.
Therefore, for safety reasons, if you decide to cover the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, under no circumstances should you smoke in the toilet or use open flame sources.
Tools and installation techniques
There are several ways to seal pipes in a toilet with plastic panels:
- Using PVC panels you can disguise the communication pipes themselves. To do this, you need to assemble boxes of the appropriate size around them. The beauty of this approach, firstly, is that it saves material, and secondly, it leaves more free space.
- You can completely cover the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels, that is, build an additional wall. Of course, this way the decor in the bathroom will be more attractive, however, the already small room will be further reduced in size.
Please note that you should begin work on masking the pipeline in the bathroom only after a complete check of their serviceability. This is important because if defects occur in the water supply or sewerage pipes, all camouflage structures will have to be dismantled for repairs.
To work you will need the following tools:
- level;
- construction knife;
- perforator;
- self-tapping screws, screws or nails with dowels;
- guides and starting profile;
- plastic panels.
The process of installing plastic panels in the toilet
Before going around the pipe with a PVC panel, you should mark the supporting structure for plastic. Subsequent installation of the panels will be carried out on the frame, for assembly of which it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the niche.
Pipes can only be closed if they are in good working order. It is advisable to replace old cast iron pipes with plastic analogues.
At the next stage, the longitudinal wooden blocks or guide profiles to walls, floors and ceilings using dowels. Next, profile corners or wooden slats. The last step in assembling the frame is to attach horizontal slats or profiles in increments of 30-40 cm. Do not forget to provide inspection windows with doors in the frame; their installation is carried out upon completion of the base assembly.
After the frame is completely installed, you can begin the actual installation of the plastic panels.
This material can be attached to the base in one of the following ways:
- on screws or nails - to a wooden structure;
- on clasps;
- using a construction stapler;
- on glue;
- on clips - if the frame is also plastic.
We draw your attention to the fact that attaching a false wall made of plastic to glue will be quite strong, so if urgent repairs are necessary, it is unlikely to be possible to disassemble the structure without damaging the plastic. In this case, the best option is to use self-tapping screws.
Fastening panels
When starting the final stage of masking the pipes in the toilet, you should perform the following steps:
- You need to secure the starting profile to the frame close to the wall using self-tapping screws. Please note that it is fixed in such a way that the next mounted panel overlaps the screw heads.
- The next piece of plastic is inserted into the resulting groove and pushed close to the profile. The free end of the panel is fixed to the longitudinal bars with self-tapping screws. Using a similar technology, all wall panels are fastened.
- Next, a door is installed in the skinny walls.
- At the opposite end of the frame, another starting profile is installed so that the wall takes on a finished look. Using a similar method, you need to close the end parts of the plastic near the ceiling and floor. Please pay attention to the fact that according to the standards, the upper part of the box must have ventilation window with a cross-section of at least 5 cm.
In conclusion, it is worth adding that in addition to all the methods listed, there is one more that is acceptable for masking pipes in a small bathroom. At the same time, you do not have to spend a lot of money and time. We are talking about blinds. The box for them is installed near the ceiling. They can completely cover the space from ceiling to floor, and if necessary, such roller shutters are simply opened - they are screwed onto a shaft installed under the ceiling.
With the help of such devices you can give the interior an original sound and save space. Fortunately, there are a lot of colors of such products, and their installation will take much less time than installing a frame under a plastic box. In addition, you can carry out all the work yourself.
So, your toilet is probably no exception, and it, like most rooms of this type, has water supply connections. Should they be closed? Only the homeowner can answer this question, based on the general style of the apartment and his own aesthetic ideas. All we can say with certainty is that closed pipes- This:
- aesthetically pleasing;
- convenient (easy to clean);
- functional.
There is an opinion that first you will have to replace the old ones iron pipes to modern plastic ones, and only then mask them. This is partly true: it is more convenient, safer and more practical. However, if replacement of the water supply is not planned or is postponed, the pipes in the toilet will continue to spoil the overall appearance.
Important: choose materials and finishing options that will allow you to smoothly repair and dismantle pipes in the future.
Material selection
Before you start masking the pipes, you should understand which material is most suitable for your bathroom. As a rule, the pipes in the toilet are the sewer riser and water communications that run vertically through the floor and ceiling, as well as water flow meters. Taking this into account, the pipes will also be overlapped vertically from the floor to the ceiling.
This fact significantly influences the choice of material: the specifics of the room are such that it simply will not allow you to carry out volumetric finishing from brick or gas silicate blocks. Accordingly, you will need thin-walled material that can be fixed throughout the communication area. Thus, the finishing of communications in the toilet should be:
- durable;
- beautiful;
- moisture resistant.
Attention: moisture resistance is an important property, because in any bathroom the humidity is high. If the material is afraid of moisture, it will not last long.
Prices for water pipes
Water pipes
Finishing materials for pipes in the toilet: options
Among the finishing materials, there are several of the most convenient and practical; each of them, to one degree or another, meets the requirements and has its advantages. Let's look at each in more detail.
Table. Characteristics of finishing material options
| Name of finishing material | Name of finishing material | Characteristics / properties |
|---|---|---|
Drywall. The most common option  | Pros | Easy to install. To install or dismantle plasterboard trim, you will need ordinary tools (not highly specialized ones). It will also be quite easy to make mortises and inserts (hatches) into a profile from this material. |
| Environmental friendliness. Drywall is an environmentally friendly substance. Flammability – minimal | ||
| Moisture resistance. There are types of material that do not react to high humidity | ||
| Availability. The material is inexpensive and will not harm the budget | ||
| Finishing. Some people consider this a minus, but many people like the opportunity to decorate plasterboard wall as dictated by the overall style of the bathroom | ||
| Cons | If repairs are necessary, the box will have to be dismantled. This is easy to do, but you will need to create another one from new drywall | |
Plastic panel (PVC). Very popular  | Pros | Cheap. This is the most budget option. |
| Easy to install. To install PVC panels you will need a metal or wooden frame from beams | ||
| Lungs. The weight of this material is small, but sufficient to withstand the installation of hatches | ||
| Resistant to moisture. Fungus and mold do not form on PVC panels and are easy to clean | ||
| Beautiful. A variety of shades and patterns allows you to choose the material to suit any interior | ||
| Flaws | Fragility, it is quite easy to damage the PVC panel | |
| Aluminum blinds. The option is not very common, suitable for small toilet rooms | Pros | Small price |
| Functionality. The space behind the blinds can accommodate shelves that will be hidden from prying eyes | ||
| Durability. Aluminum blinds can last for many years | ||
| Moisture resistance. They are not afraid of dampness, they are easy to care for | ||
| Easy to install. To install blinds, you only need to strengthen them from above; you don’t need to touch the side walls for this. | ||
| Cons | Low noise insulation | |
| Gaps between walls | ||
| Additional complications (the pipe coming from the toilet will interfere with full lowering blinds, you will have to make a separate plastic box for the bottom) | ||
| May change color over time (turn yellow, darken) | ||
Laminated MDF (sanitary cabinet). Often used in Khrushchev buildings. As a rule, doors are made of this material and are attached to the side walls using timber and hinges. The result is a design similar to a utility cabinet.  | Pros | Space saving. You can put various household items in the cabinet niche |
| Convenience. Always have access to communications | ||
| Aesthetics. Doors can be made in the general style or become an advantageous accent in the room | ||
| Cons | Cost (if doors are made to order) | |
| Fragility (MDF does not always withstand moisture) | ||
Roller shutters. One of the most modern options finishing  | Pros | Style and beauty. Even photo printing is possible on the surface of this finishing material (to order) |
| Professional installation. Installation is carried out by specialists, which will eliminate errors and unnecessary hassle. | ||
| Ease of use. Roller shutters do not obstruct access to communications | ||
| Flaws | High cost | |
| Difficulties in placement (ventilation from above and toilet pipes from below will cause additional difficulties) |
Please note: in some cases, you can also use gypsum fiber boards, hinged plastic doors, or waterproof plywood to cover the pipes in the toilet. A good and economical option is a former countertop or cabinet door.
Types of installation structures
As already noted, when it comes to the toilet, we are talking mainly about the vertical arrangement of communications. Horizontal distribution pipes are also subject to closure. Based on this, there are several types of camouflage structures water pipes:
- Mounted. This is an option suitable for installing blinds, also hanging structure have roller shutters.
- Frame. PVC panels and plasterboard are suitable for covering the frame.
- Combined. As the name implies, this is a symbiosis of the first two options - frame and mounted.
- Ready array. As a rule, this is a one-piece structure that is mounted in an assembly. For example, a frame made of metal-plastic, in which a door is mounted for access to the water supply.
Required Tools
To be fully prepared, before you start improving the toilet, it’s a good idea to prepare necessary tools. Here is an approximate list of equipment for installation work:
- electric drill/hammer;
- dowels;
- screws;
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- jigsaw;
- level;
- painting knife;
- screwdrivers;
- pliers;
- Bulgarian;
- centimeter.
For efficient work and convenience, it is better to ensure the availability of the listed tools.
Prices for angle grinders (grinders)
Angle grinders (grinders)
Preparing for work
To make the process of creating a closing structure as simple as possible and not cause you any trouble, you need not only to choose the material, acquire it, prepare the tools necessary for the work and think through the configuration of the structure. Before you begin installation, it is very important:
- check pipes for the presence/absence of damage and defects;
- if any are found, eliminate them;
- check the strength and serviceability of tees, couplings, angles and other transition elements to reduce the risk of future accidents.
Ways to close toilet pipes
The question of how to close the pipes in a toilet can be quite controversial. The following factors influence the decision:
- pipe sizes;
- their location;
- presence/absence of water meters;
- interior design, room style.
Please note: If the interior of the room is classic, then blinds will not be suitable as a finishing option, but for a minimalist style they are just right.
Which method to choose is up to you. Below we will talk about several of the most common and easy-to-implement options for closing communications.
Find out what ideas and design options exist for in a special article on our portal.
Complete wall closure
This method is very popular and is used to camouflage pipelines quite often. The essence of the method is that the space behind the toilet (where the pipes pass) is covered with a false wall. It is created from plasterboard sheets, PVC panels, suspended structures, or a combination of frame and suspended arrays (blinds). Any option will do. To fasten the material, a metal profile frame and sheathing are made.
Important: Don’t forget about the hatches for access to meters and valves!
This design looks neat, is simple in execution, and economical. It can be decorated in the same way as the rest of the walls in the toilet, which will create the effect of the absence of pipes. In addition, the free space inside can be used to store various household appliances if you install shelves there. However, there is also a minus: a false wall will significantly complicate access to the pipes.
Oblique false wall: step-by-step instructions
The design is similar to the previous one, however in this case It is not the entire wall that is closed, but the part of it in which the pipes pass (if they are located in the corner). It is impossible to install niches inside the slanting false wall for storing household chemicals, but this design helps to significantly save space in a small room. To arrange an oblique false wall:
- Secure the metal profile around the perimeter of the pipeline (walls, floor, ceiling).
- Cover the structure with plasterboard.
- Cover the false wall with tiles or other cladding material of your choice.
Please note: Regardless of the type of structure chosen, leave 3-4 cm between the wall being installed and the pipeline!
Square box
This design would be appropriate when the pipes do not run across the entire wall, but only occupy a corner of the bathroom. This option is great if the room area is small, as it will not take up much space. To create a square box you will need a metal profile (attached to the floor and walls), guides, and cladding/cladding material. Don’t forget about the door, which is positioned so as to provide access to water meters and valves. The advantages of this design are obvious:
- ease of installation;
- efficiency;
- possibility of dismantling.
The only thing: in the event of an accident, the box is not entirely convenient, since dismantling it can take considerable time.
If the communications have an angular vertical arrangement, then the box will look like a column. If the position of the pipes is horizontal, then you will get something like a small step that can be used as a stand for air freshener, paper or anything else.
Video - Creating a box frame
The design is a little more complex in composition than the previous one, therefore, more effort will have to be made to install it. Essentially, this is the creation of two or more successively arranged boxes from a frame fixed to a metal profile sheathing. These structures will perfectly hide the pipeline located below horizontally.
This is a good option, it allows you to improve the design and make it more interesting to play with. In addition, multi-level boxes - great way creating niches not only in the walls, but also on the ceilings. This option is good for those who want to install multi-level spot lighting.
This design option is used quite often, but not everyone likes it, and here’s why:
- complex installation (it is better to entrust it to specialists);
- high price;
- Not suitable for every interior.
Despite the listed disadvantages, the design is good in that it will provide complete free access to communications. This greatly simplifies their repair in the event of an accident. You can also install shelves and store many necessary little things there.
Built-in cabinet
Convenient, functional and attractive way masking pipes in the toilet. This design looks stylish and will easily fit into the interior if you choose desired color door Access to the water supply will always be free. In this case, the lower part of the communications can be covered with plastic, matched to the color of wooden chipboards or plywood doors. The downside of this option is its cost. Good materials are always expensive, and installing such a cabinet is not an easy task. This method is usually chosen by owners who are not strapped for money: in this case, marking, design creation and installation are carried out by a specialist.
Original decor
If you are a lover of originality and know how to create interesting things with your own hands, then this method is just for you. With some imagination and a little effort, you can design the pipes in an individual style. It will turn out unusual and fresh. To decorate communications, any material will be used: rhinestones, mosaics, glass, paints, shells, etc. The main thing is that they match the overall style of the room.
Prices for tiles for bathrooms and toilets
Tile
A little about the plumbing hatch
Structures masking communications must certainly be equipped with hatches, in other words, small doors for access to pipes, meters and valves. If you use options such as roller shutters, blinds, or a plumbing cabinet, then there will be no problems with this. However, in structures made of plasterboard or PVC panels, you will have to think in advance about the presence of a special inspection hole. In the case of plastic, everything is quite simple: it is easy to install a plastic door in the right place. In the assortment of stores large selection models of any size. The plasterboard construction option is a little more complicated, because it is usually covered with tiles. In such cases, you can choose one of several options:
- Install a simple metal or plastic hatch, the doors of which will swing outward. Such an opening will be visible, but will not stand out too much from the overall picture.
- Buy a special hatch that can be hidden. The surface of the door of such a hatch will look like part of a false wall. This option is not the cheapest.
Find out how to do it and also check out interesting ideas(photo) and instructions.
Step-by-step instructions for covering pipes with drywall
A material such as drywall is attached to a metal profile. To mount the box, you need the following:
- Measure the desired length of the profile and cut it. Use a pencil to mark the floor (3-4 cm from the pipes) and screw the profile along the markings (with dowels). Do the same on the ceiling and walls.
- Cut racks from the profile (the length is up to the ceiling), install them in the corners and near the walls and screw them from the bottom and top with special profile screws (“bugs”).
- Cut the rack profile with a hacksaw and mount the sheathing horizontally from them. For fastening you will need the same “bugs”.
- Mount a window for the hatch from sections of the profile. To do this, place the profile sections vertically and horizontally (in the form of an opening) in the selected location.
- Using a painting knife, cut the drywall into sheets of the required size.
Attention: When attaching drywall, make sure that the screw head is flush, but does not break through its surface.
Prices for drywall and sheet materials
Drywall and sheet materials
Video - Create a box from plasterboard
Step-by-step instructions for covering pipes with PVC panels
Installation of PVC panels is considered quite easy and quick. To implement it, follow several steps:
- Make a sheathing from beams or metal profile: Attach the guides to the floor and walls with a hammer drill using dowels and screws. Use long screws to attach the vertical posts to the guides.
- The hatch window is an important detail. If the hatch door is plastic, the PVC panels will support it. If the large one is metal, make a window of the required size from the timber.
- Attach the plastic panels to the sheathing. This is done with staples, small screws, nails - whatever is more convenient for you.
Please note: As a rule, the location of PVC panels is vertical.
Video - Box made of PVC panels: beautiful, fast, easy
There are many ways to close the pipes in the toilet, each of them is good in its own way and is possible in almost any room. The final choice always remains with the owner of the bathroom: based on the overall design, budget and your own wishes, you can give preference to the most suitable finishing option for you personally.
Numerous pipes, risers, bends, meters and valves - all located in small bathroom, which is not particularly beautiful anyway. It is not surprising that when doing this, many people think about how to hide the pipes. In this article, we will figure it out and show photos of how to properly hide pipes in a toilet or bathroom.
IN standard apartments As a rule, the bathroom is separate and the bulk of communications such as the water supply system is also connected there, and the water supply is also connected there, and all this is located in the toilet, turning it into a kind of technical booth where the toilet was accidentally installed. In a private house, the situation is simpler and, nevertheless, there are a couple of pipes that catch the eye. There are many ways to decorate them, but before you hide the pipes in the toilet, you need to carry out a number of preparatory work.
Before starting work
When planning a bathroom and toilet renovation, be sure to consider a way to disguise water pipes
First of all, you need to make sure that communications are working properly. Under no circumstances should there be any corrosive areas, much less leaks. Before hiding heating and water supply pipes, it is advisable to insulate them.
It is necessary to determine in advance the location of technological hatches and install main filters for water purification. Recently, roller shutters for toilets have become especially popular. This option combines a neat appearance and full access to communications.
Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the walls. You need to make sure that there are no traces of mold or mildew on them. If the latter are present, a thorough mechanical cleaning and double treatment with fungicides.
Important! Plumbing hatches will provide easy access to those areas of communications that require periodic maintenance, such as meters and filters.
How to choose a plumbing hatch: access to communications
A plumbing or inspection hatch installed in the walls allows you to maintain access to the main elements of communications. There are several options available on the construction market:
- Finished hatches. Usually plastic, can also be made of metal or stainless steel. Does not require additional finishing.
- Inspection hatches are installed if the question is how to hide all the pipes in the toilet or bathroom under the tiles. They belong to the category of invisible hatches. The sanitary door is decorated with the same finishing materials that are used for the walls, making it almost invisible.
The frame of such hatches is steel, and the doors are made of gypsum fiber. Used for openings different sizes, making the piping in the toilet as accessible as possible.
Inspection hatches: plastic (left) and decorated tiles(right)
- Plumbing hatches for painting consist of an aluminum frame and a plasterboard door, which can be painted in any chosen color. The design does not imply finishing with other materials.
Pipe box: configuration, installation
A decorative box for covering pipes is suitable in most cases. Depending on the location of communications, it can be made in several versions.
- False wall. Simple and quick way hide the pipes if they are located along one of the walls, usually behind the toilet. Of course, the wall will take up at least 50 cm of the already short length of the toilet. But this problem can be solved by installing wall hung toilet, which is mounted on a special module hidden behind the wall.
The drain tank will also be located behind the wall inside the pipe box. In this case, to provide access to important elements communications or change the coarse water filter, install several simple plumbing hatches. - Sloped false wall. This option is used when thinner branches go in different directions from the nodal riser. The wall in this case is located under acute angle to the side and rear wall. This option looks interesting, but it will take up a lot of usable space.
Sloped false wall (left) and flat false wall (right)
- Multi-level boxes. In some toilets, if you fence off all communications with a wall, there will simply be no room left for a toilet. In this case, they resort to a multi-level box. Each individual structural element masks a specific section of the pipe. Multi-level structures look very interesting and allow you to functionally use the end part of the pipe box.
- A square box is installed when the pipe layout in the toilet is simple, all pipes and a coarse water filter are located in one corner. It takes up little space.
Choosing material for finishing the box
Typically, the same material is used for lining boxes as for walls. And the most popular, undoubtedly, is. And not only for aesthetic reasons, it is easy to clean, resistant to disinfectants and durable.
Finishing the box with plastic (left) and tiles (right)
In addition to ceramics, plastic panels are laid. They are cheaper and less reliable, but if pipe repairs are required, such a box is easier to dismantle. Sometimes the box structure, made of plasterboard, is only painted, but the option is not practical and durable. In addition, dirt accumulates in the pores of the paint, which promotes the development of bacteria.
Facing stone, brick or mosaic are often used only in fragments, to highlight certain areas. Thus, for example, you can highlight a plumbing hatch under ceramic tiles.
Box installation
At the initial stage, you need to decide on the choice of material for finishing the box. If this happens ceramic tiles or, the frame is made of a metal profile and sheathed with plasterboard. For plastic or wood panels with a waterproof coating, the frame can be made of wooden blocks, which does not require additional cladding.
The installation of the box is carried out in several stages. Preparatory work includes measurements and marking the location of the structure, taking into account the thickness of the material. The box structure must be at a distance of at least 3 cm from the pipes.
The next stage is securing the frame elements. When a profile is fixed along the perimeter of the future structure, guide elements lead from it and form an angle. Drywall sheets are cut in such a way that the box for covering the pipes, if possible, consists of separate strips.
Drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. If further finishing involves painting or wallpapering, the structure is primed, puttied and sanded with sandpaper.
Under no circumstances should the so-called inspection areas be closed; they are used for cleaning sewer pipes. They also provide access to the meter, taps and open the coarse filter tap water.
Roller shutters for the toilet
Plumbing modern roller shutters in the toilet are installed if all the pipes are located along the back wall. They are a sheet of lamellas that moves along vertical guides and is wound on top of a shaft protected by a box.
Roller shutters for hiding pipes in the toilet and bathroom
The main advantage of roller shutters is that they are able to provide free access to pipes. Most often, bathroom shutters are attached directly to the wall and ceiling. Installation is carried out both at the initial stage of repair work and after its completion.
Before you begin installing blinds, you need to measure the diagonals of the openings. The difference between the two measurements should not exceed 5 mm. And make sure that the vertical and horizontal slopes are level. The most practical option for a toilet would be a built-in installation, with the box inward or outward.
Important! It is better to install roller shutters before laying the tiles. This way, it will be possible to hide the gaps between the wall and the guides.
Installation of roller shutters
Markings are made on the guide rails. 10-15 cm are retreated from each edge of the tire; on the remaining segment, the marks are distributed evenly, in increments of 45-50 cm. Holes with a diameter of 11.8 mm are drilled in the inner wall of the tire to attach the box to the opening.
At the edge of the front flange of the box and its lid, joint holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are drilled, two on each side. In the future, they will be used to secure the box lid with rivets. Next, a hole with a diameter of 8 mm is identified and drilled in the upper flange of the box panel to secure it in the opening.
Installation diagram of roller shutters for a sanitary cabinet
Assemble the roller shutter frame (frame and guides) and install it in the opening strictly according to the level. The iron sheet is inserted over the drive shaft from the rear wall of the box into the guide bars. Traction springs are attached to the edge of the web and secured to the shaft. Fix the box lid. Close the holes with plugs. Check the operation of the system.
Advice! Roller shutters for the toilet are usually plain, and this is not in the best possible way affects their aesthetic qualities. You can make them more attractive and consistent with the finish using airbrushing.
Everything around is beautiful, but when laying tiles on the walls, they didn’t cover the pipes in the toilet, and they spoil the view, and it’s inconvenient to clean up after them. This means you need to hide them in a box.
Material selection
In bathrooms, boxes are made from moisture-resistant plasterboard finished with ceramic tiles or PVC wall panels. Tiled boxes have an excellent appearance and unsurpassed reliability. However, pipes, meters and taps tend to fail and sometimes require replacement or repair. Therefore, the possible dismantling of boxes is a factor that must be taken into account.
The boxes that cover the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels are easy to assemble and disassemble, the materials for their installation are inexpensive, and the structures have a decent appearance.
Tools and materials
The set of tools required for work is standard: hammer drill, drill (screwdriver), metal scissors, good knife, tape measure, building level and hammer.
For assembling boxes in the toilet panel house 75 series, you will need the following materials:
- PVC wall panels (in the example 250x2700 mm - 6 pieces);
- plastic starting profile – (5 pcs.);
- guide profile 27x28 mm – (3 pcs.);
- finishing corner 25x25x2700 mm – (2 pcs.);
- sanitary hatches (200x300 mm and 150x150 mm);
- ventilation grille 150x150 mm;
- dowel-nails 5x40 mm – (50 pcs.);
- metal screws 16 mm – (50 pcs.);
- universal self-tapping screws “bugs” 16 mm – (50 pcs.);
- drill for a hammer drill (drill) (5x110 mm - 1 pc.);
- drill for glass and tiles (5 mm - 1 pc.);
- acrylic-based “liquid nails” glue – (1 tube).
When purchasing materials, you should consider several nuances:
- PVC panels can be of different thicknesses, so the starting profile should be chosen carefully so that its width matches the thickness of the panel.
- To attach the starting profile, it is convenient to use self-tapping screws without a drill at the end, with small heads.
- To tighten the screws, use a drill attachment - a bit, the markings of which must match the markings of the screws. The two most common types are PH2 and PZ2.
- Hatches and ventilation grilles It is advisable to buy plastic ones, since they are easier to glue than metal ones, and they fit more tightly into place.
- Acrylic glue has an undeniable advantage over others - its excess can be easily washed off with a wet rag before the glue dries.
Frame assembly
Before you pick up a hammer drill, you need to think about the design of the closing pipe in the toilet. It is not advisable to make the width of the boxes larger than the width of the panel to avoid narrow inserts. Ideally, all sizes should be minimal. And they should be displayed on the walls with a pencil in the form of vertical lines.
Assembly of the box frame begins with the installation of the starting profile.
In the simplest case, the mounting holes are drilled with a hammer drill directly through the profile and dowel nails are driven into them. However, when working with tiled walls, this option may not work. Firstly, there may be voids under the tile, and then it will burst. Secondly, ceramics can be too strong or brittle, and then they will break too.
Therefore, the tile must be drilled before drilling a hole deep into the wall. Often, tiles can be easily drilled with the same hammer drill bit. In this case, it is convenient to use the appropriate operating mode of the hammer drill. If the option with a drill does not work, then a drill for glass and tiles will help. Sometimes you can do without drilling and drilling by screwing self-tapping screws into the seam between the tiles. It happens that this method turns out to be quite reliable. However, you need to make sure of this by giving the profile secured in this way a good tug.
The starting profile should be fastened starting from its ends. We secured the top, carefully stretched the flexible profile and secured the bottom. Then the remaining holes are made every 30 - 40 cm. In this way, “waviness” of the profile can be avoided.
The appearance of the entire structure largely depends on the starting profile. A panel will be inserted into it, and its outer side will serve as the edging of the box. Therefore, various bends and creases are unacceptable.
Having secured the starting profile, it is necessary to create a base for the outer corner of the box - install a metal “PP” profile. To ensure that it does not dangle and stands strictly vertically, it needs to be reinforced with several horizontal jumpers cut from the same profile.
The plane of the metal profile should be 10 mm (the thickness of the PVC panel) deeper than the starting profile relative to the front surface of the box.
One point should be noted regarding the reliability of the design. PVC panel is a delicate material and does not tolerate physical impacts. Reinforced concrete frame it doesn't need a box. The box installation option described in the article is reliable and efficient, although it seems flimsy.
Installation of PVC panels
PVC panels are cut with a stationery or construction knife with sharp blade. There is no need to put pressure on it; just swipe it with a knife several times using a straight edge.
It is better to direct the factory edges of the panel to the outer corners, and the cut ones - to the walls, inserting them into the starting profile. The mounting flange along the edge will get in the way, but it can be easily trimmed. Various holes are cut with a knife, piercing the panel right through.
There is no point in cutting off several pieces at once; you can make a mistake if they are all different. We cut it off, screwed it on, and measured the next one. It is not advisable to attach the panel to the starting profile, because this self-tapping screw cannot be hidden. However, sometimes there is no other choice. In this situation, self-tapping screws with small heads are used, which are then coated with acrylic glue. When screwing the panel to the metal profile, you need to recess the head of the screw, but do not overdo it. In addition, you need to remember the width of the finishing corner that will cover the outer corner.
Even if you screw in self-tapping screws every 10 cm, rock hardness cannot be achieved. Therefore, gaps between screws of 40 cm are quite appropriate. When fixing the panel to the horizontal jumper, the self-tapping screw must be screwed through the mounting shelf. Metal screws are well suited for this purpose.
If in some place you can’t screw in a self-tapping screw without damaging the front side of the panel, that’s okay. Finishing will add strength, bringing it to an acceptable level.
In the example described, both the sewer pipe and the water pipes were closed.
Photo of the installation of a box covering the counters in the toilet.
Finishing the box covering the sewer pipe in the toilet
Upon completion of installation of the boxes, the outer corners remain open. You need to glue the finishing corner onto them, securing it with tape until the glue sets.
Unnecessary cracks are covered with acrylic glue or sealant. However, you need to remember - there is no plastic without cracks, and it is undesirable to get carried away with putty.
Plumbing hatches are glued to the surface of the panel, securing them with spacers. But if the hole for the hatch is made a couple of millimeters smaller, the hatch will still fit in and will hold perfectly without any glue.
Fully assembled, finished and sealed boxes have a wonderful appearance and acceptable reliability. In addition, these structures can be easily disassembled if necessary.
The problem of masking pipes in a bathroom room faces those homeowners who are trying to give an aesthetic appearance to absolutely all rooms of a house or apartment. It can be noted that there are, of course, exceptions: open pipes can fit perfectly into one industrial designer styles- "loft". However, there are still not many of its adherents. The overwhelming majority are those owners who prefer a cozy, warm environment even in such specific purpose and small-area small spaces like a toilet.
Therefore, the question of how to hide the pipes in the toilet always remains relevant for them. Moreover, new decoration options are appearing, developed by manufacturers of various accessories for bathrooms, as well as invented by home craftsmen.
General information about pipe masking structures
What are the options for piping in the toilet?
Not only the owners of luxury houses or apartments, but also the owners of ordinary budget housing try to hide the pipes in the toilet. Much in the choice of masking plumbing depends on the location of the pipes, as well as on the area of the bathroom.
The most difficult thing is to select and install a structure covering communications in the toilet of an apartment with a standard layout and footage of multi-storey buildings. This is due to the fact that pipes often run along two adjacent walls. In such cases, camouflage structures take on complex, difficult-to-execute forms, since literally every centimeter of free space in the room has to be saved.
If the toilet pipes are located along one wall, then closing them will be easiest. The rest of the space in the room will not be occupied by the masking structure and, therefore, will not lose its area.
If the pipes are located along adjacent walls, then in order to hide them, you will have to build two camouflage boxes, which will lead to a rather serious loss of area. Besides, different types communications can run vertically and horizontally, while also having branches to adjacent rooms. Unfortunately, the size of the toilet does not always allow for the construction of full-fledged camouflage structures for such difficult cases.
The manifold wiring option, if the main unit is located in the toilet, occupies a considerable part of the space of the room, if we consider the relatively small area. In addition, this design often hangs over the back of the toilet, which also makes it difficult to cover it with enclosing materials. When thinking about masking the collector assembly, it is also necessary to take into account providing access to meters, water meters, in which cartridges need to be periodically changed, and control valves. So the task is also not an easy one.
Main types of camouflage structures
Today, there are several types of designs that are most often used to disguise communication nodes in bathrooms or toilets. From these, you can choose the option that best suits the location of the pipes. To figure out which one to give preference to, it is necessary to consider not only how they will look in their finished form, but also the features of their installation process.
- Building a frame made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams around the communications, which is later sheathed with plasterboard sheets or plastic panels. Here it is necessary to clarify that metal profiles are better suited for installation, and a wooden frame is better suited for the installation of plastic panels, although this is not a rule at all - just a recommendation. Having chosen this camouflage option, it is necessary to provide the possibility of access to significant distribution nodes (taps, filters, water meters, etc.)
- A built-in plumbing cabinet is a box with doors, which is mounted into a frame constructed from a metal profile or wooden beam. Doors can have different heights and widths equal to the width of the room. Glass, wooden and plastic versions of such cabinets are produced.
- Horizontal blinds or roller shutters. This option for masking pipes is convenient to use in that communications can always be fully accessible in case of an emergency.
A built-in wardrobe is not only a disguise, but also a lot of space for storing household items. - If the length of the room allows, then you can close the pipes in the toilet by building a functional cabinet in which there is space to store many different useful items. Access to the pipes will be provided by opening the upper and lower doors.
- If the walls of the toilet are made of gypsum-based slabs, which is not uncommon in multi-story buildings, channels can be drilled into them for embedding pipes. However, this option will do only for pipes of small diameter, but for a sewer riser you will still have to choose a different method of masking.
- If for some reason it is not possible to install one of the above structures at all, then you can use the idea of externally decorating the pipe with various decorative elements or painting.
Types of plumbing hatches
When closing water supply and sewer lines, it is always necessary to provide access to them - for conducting an audit, for taking readings of water meters, for performing repair and restoration work in the event of an accident. Therefore, you should think in advance which door or hatch would be better suited for a specific design.
On the market modern market Manufacturers of building materials present many similar options:
- Hatches ready for installation. They can be made of durable frosted artificial glass, plastic or metal. This type of product does not need cladding - the main thing is to choose it correct sizes and design suitable for the selected wall cladding. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase the optimal model before starting the construction of the enclosing structure.
- Invisible hatches, consisting of a metal frame on which a plate (usually made of gypsum fiber composite) is fixed. This type of product is intended for subsequent cladding with the same material as the remaining surfaces of the walls of the toilet or bathroom. Thanks to this approach, the door becomes almost completely invisible.
Invisibility hatches can have different designs according to the type of opening - they are sliding, folding and hinged. The options are shown in the illustrations. In addition, there are invisible hatches that are simply held in place by magnets and, if necessary, are completely removable.
Which design to choose depends on the specific location of the hatch. That is, its discovery should not present difficulties, but in open form it must provide the necessary “degree of freedom” to perform certain operations on hidden communications.
- Hatches consisting of an aluminum frame and plasterboard sheathing. These doors are usually not intended for tiling - they remain lightweight, so they are either painted suitable color, or pasted over with wallpaper.
Installation of pipe masking structures
This section will discuss several possible options for closing pipes.
For installation work, it is necessary to prepare tools and, of course, all the necessary materials. And if different materials may be required, then the list of tools for building the frame and its cladding, as a rule, does not undergo any special changes.
So, in order to mask communications in the toilet, you should prepare:
— A screwdriver and an electric drill (if the walls are made of dense material that requires a special approach to making holes);
— Metal scissors for working with metal profiles and a hacksaw for wood when choosing for sheathing timber;
— Construction square, level, tape measure and pencil for marking;
— Construction level – bubble or laser;
— A set of ordinary plumbing tools - hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
Tools for subsequent finishing may also be required - this depends on what type of decorative coating of the masking structure will be used.
Masking box-shaped structure made of plasterboard
The most difficult to implement design option for a camouflage box is when the pipes are located along two walls, and in the corner between them there is a central communal sewer line. It is this kind of installation that will be discussed further.
The materials for work will require moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets, galvanized metal profiles, metal screws, dowels for attaching the frame to the wall, as well as ceramic tiles for subsequent cladding of the structure. In order not to buy unnecessary material, it is recommended to make all calculations in advance, taking dimensions from the installation site, and draw up an approximate layout of the boxes on a scale. At the same time, we must not forget about providing access - in the example under consideration to .
Calculations of the amount of materials are made individually for each specific case.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | Before you begin calculating and marking the walls for installation of the box frame, it is necessary to inspect all pipelines. If you plan to cover the entire collector with permanent panels, as in this case, then it is recommended to replace the old pipes with polypropylene pipes connected to each other by welding. All connections between pipes must be as reliable as possible. You shouldn't even mess with the box if it's old steel pipes have traces of corrosion and generally do not inspire confidence in their durability. |
 | If the pipes are in order, then the first step is to mark the walls, floor and ceiling. It is necessary to mark the contours of the finished location of the enclosing structure. The accuracy of the design will depend on how correctly the vertical and horizontal lines of its lines are aligned. Constructions can be made using conventional or laser level. The second option will give more accurate markings and significantly reduce the time for this stage. |
 | When creating a frame consisting of three sections, first the frame of the central part enclosing vertical pipe general sewerage. The metal profile is attached to the walls along the lines marked on them, then using a drill, holes are drilled in the profile and the wall into which a dowel-nail is driven (or a dowel-cork followed by screwing in self-tapping screws). Fastening to the wall is carried out in increments of 350÷400 mm. When the two guides are attached to the wall, they must be connected to each other on the ceiling and floor with short parts that will determine the shape of the future vertical box. The sections are attached to the floor and ceiling, as well as to already installed metal guides. |
 | Next, an external guide is installed, forming the corner of the box. It is recommended to assemble it from two profiles that will ensure rigidity of the structure. External profiles are first fastened to the corner part of the frame on the ceiling and then to the floor. After this, the external rack is connected to guides fixed to the walls and horizontal jumpers. The parts are fixed with metal self-tapping screws screwed in with a screwdriver. |
 | Now, using the same principle, boxes are mounted along the walls along the marking lines. First of all, the profile is attached to the rear wall of the room and to the floor. Then, two side vertical sections of the profile are mounted, they are installed inside the guide fixed to the floor. One of them is fixed to the wall, the other to a vertical frame erected around the sewer riser. Now the middle posts are installed, which will frame the sewer pipe pipe intended for connecting the toilet. |
 | All racks are mounted in the floor profile and attached to it with two self-tapping screws. Next, all racks are connected by horizontal jumpers. |
 | The next step is to build a frame along the second wall using the same principle. It is usually made taller, since its surface perfectly serves as a shelf. The illustration shows a metal frame ready for sheathing. If the area of the room allows, then it is recommended to adjust the width of the frame surfaces to the size of the tiles. This will simplify the installation of the cladding and make it more neat. |
 | In the place where you plan to install a small door or a plumbing hatch, it is necessary to build a frame into the frame according to its size - the so-called mortgages. Instead of metal structure, you can use a plywood sheet in which a hole is cut for the hatch. The plywood is secured to the metal elements from the inside of the structure using liquid nails adhesive. The plywood is further strengthened when fixed to the drywall frame. |
 | In order to muffle the noise of flows passing through the sewer main, the riser is often soundproofed using mineral wool. It fills the entire space inside the vertical frame, as well as around the pipe leading to the toilet. |
 | Next, dimensions are taken from each surface of the frame, according to which parts are cut out from plasterboard. They will be used to cover the metal frame. The plasterboard panels are fastened with metal self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be slightly recessed into the surface of the plasterboard. |
 | The next step is to line the walls of the toilet and the box with ceramic tiles. For finishing tile joints on external and internal corners special decorative plastic corners are used. |
 | When installing drywall, a hole is left at the location where the hatch is installed. After tiling the box with tiles, a hatch is built into the hole. |
 | In this case, the hatch door has a hinged design. If necessary, the door can be completely dismantled. |
 | Another inspection door is installed in a box mounted at the back of the toilet. |
The principle of performing work when using drywall and plastic panels is generally the same. However, there are also some nuances that you should also be aware of.
Wooden frame for plastic panels
The second most popular lining material for pipe camouflage structures is plastic panels. Moreover, they are used to cover the ducts and walls of the toilet, and they are also used to cover the frame of pipe fencing and in cases where tiles are laid on the walls or wallpaper is pasted.
When choosing plastic panels as cladding, it is recommended to use wooden beam cross section approximately 30x40 mm. As a rule, not only the frame, but also the walls are sheathed with plastic panels, so the frame is erected simultaneously with the sheathing on all surfaces.
The advantage of plastic panels over plasterboard is that they do not require additional cladding, so the overall cost of finishing will be much lower. In addition, installation of panels takes much less time.
- First preparatory stage The work is carried out in the same way as when creating a plasterboard box, that is, an inspection is carried out and, if necessary, replacement of pipes.
- Next, it is recommended to process antiseptic, which will prevent the occurrence of mold or mildew in the enclosed space formed between the wall and the plastic cladding. The solution is applied using a roller, brush, or spray gun.
- Then, after drying, the location of the guides and frame parts of the masking box is marked.
- A frame made of timber is erected in the same sequence as from a metal profile. It should be taken into account that the timber must be positioned horizontally at least 450÷500 mm - this step is required by the technology of cladding with plastic panels.
- The sheathing and box beams are attached to the walls using dowels (dowel-nails or dowel-plugs), for which holes are drilled through the beam in the wall.
- The installation process of the panels is quite simple. The main thing is to correctly, strictly vertically position the first element of the plastic lining in the row. It must be carefully calibrated to the building level. Then, when installing subsequent panels, they also need to be periodically checked for verticality - sometimes a rather significant error occurs.
- The panels are fastened to the sheathing using wood screws with wide heads, or staples using a stapler. To join panels in the corners of the room, special corner plastic profiles are used for external and internal corners.
A plumbing hatch for installation in plastic cladding must be light in weight, which means that it must also be made of plastic.
Plumbing cabinet
As a rule, plumbing cabinets are located along the entire back wall of the room, behind the toilet. Doors can hide only communications, or behind one of them can be placed functional shelves for storing hygiene or cleaning products. The convenience of these designs is undeniable, since they always allow you to reach meters and filters, as well as monitor the serviceability of the entire wiring unit or collector.
You can make such a cabinet yourself or purchase it from finished form. For self-made you will need to make a frame of the required size, and the doors are the same as for a regular cabinet.
In order to make a frame, you can use a wooden beam or a metal frame welded from a corner or profile pipe. Hinges for hanging the doors are sometimes immediately fixed to the metal version of the frame by welding.
Cabinet doors can be made of various materials - wood, plastic panels, plywood, MDF or chipboard, metal or frosted glass.
Frames with doors are made according to the principle of shutters, so if you plan to make them from wood, you can order the structure from any experienced carpenter, providing him with all the necessary dimensions.
Plastic door options can be purchased ready-made or plastic panels can be mounted on a wooden frame.
In addition to swing door options, accordion doors are suitable for plumbing cabinets. They have more complex design, since when opening they move along guides installed on horizontal frame elements. By the way, shutters can also have an accordion design.
Instead of ordinary doors, roller shutters have recently begun to be increasingly installed in plumbing closets. This design is convenient in that it can be mounted to the entire height of the niche. This allows, if necessary, to have full access to all instruments and components of the collector. Probably, such roller shutters can be called the most convenient option to use. However, this device has one significant drawback for many - it is high cost.
If roller shutters are installed only on the upper part of the wall, then the lower part will need to be closed plasterboard construction. But roller shutters, covering a niche from ceiling to floor, free extra work and costs.
Roller shutters are made of plastic, metal and wood. The most durable of them are metal or wooden structures- they are easy to clean from dust and do not lose their attractiveness long time. If desired, you can order roller shutters with a printed pattern that matches the style of the room or the color scheme of the design.
No matter what the roller shutters are made of, they transform the room and perfectly preserve the free space of a cramped bathroom.
Some homeowners decide to replace the roller shutters with horizontal blinds, since their cost is very low. But, you must admit, the service life is significantly lower than the capital structure of roller shutters
There are different ways placing roller shutters in the niche opening. In addition, they are divided into two types according to the placement of the drum mechanism:
- Overhead outdoor installation systems. In this case, the roller shutters are mounted on the wall. This option is optimal for installation in a toilet if the equipped niche has an opening smaller than the width of the wall.
- Installation of roller shutters built into the opening is possible if the niche is deep and the pipes are located close to its rear wall.
- The design, in which the box is located externally, can be installed either with outside niche, and completely “recessed” into it.
- If the box is located inside the structure, then the roller shutters can be installed on the wall around the niche or flush with the wall of the niche.
Most often, the installation of roller shutters is entrusted to specialists who will complete the work carefully and quickly.
Hiding pipes in walls
It is more convenient to hide pipes in the wall in a combined bathroom, since small room Cleaning a toilet is quite difficult. But even the room is more spacious. how standard toilet, sometimes it is difficult to embed all the pipes into the wall - some of them will still often remain open.
This method of freeing surfaces from unsightly communications has many disadvantages, which include the following:
- Labor-intensive work, which is always accompanied by increased noise, an abundance of dirt and dust.
- Inability to completely embed pipes that have large diameter. This means that you will have to use other methods of masking them, that is, do double work.
- It is recommended to carry out hidden pipe routing on straight sections of the pipeline that do not have detachable connections.
In addition, when choosing this method of camouflage, you will have to adhere to certain regulatory rules, which you should familiarize yourself with in advance:
- It is prohibited to cut fines in main, load-bearing walls.
- Only pipes that have permanent connections, that is, welded together. In other cases, connecting nodes must be accessible.
- There should be no electrical communications in the area of the wall where stripping is planned.
- The width of the fine should take into account thermal expansion pipes, so some polypropylene products expand quite seriously in all directions.
- The pipes are installed in special plastic clips - they will prevent sound transmission to the walls.
- Instead of clips, some craftsmen use heat-insulating sleeves to dampen sounds, which are also excellent sound insulators.
- When arranging hidden pipe routing, it is recommended to draw up an exact diagram of their exact location, which will be necessary during emergency or major repairs.
In order to lay grooves in the walls, they are first marked, outlining the width and route of passage. Then, using a grinder or/and a hammer drill, a groove (cut) of the required depth is cut into the surface, and pipes are hidden in it, which will subsequently be covered with finishing.
Decorating pipes
If for some reason there is no possibility or even just no desire to build a box or install a plumbing cabinet, then there is always the option of closing the pipes decorative materials. With this approach, each home owner uses his own imagination or borrows ideas from the Internet, which, after changing a few if necessary, can be passed off to guests as their own.
- This option is easy to implement and does not require any special creative skills. It is enough to roll up a straight pipe from rattan wicker (mat) and secure it to the wall around the riser. Rattan has a certain rigidity, so it holds its given shape perfectly. In the example shown in the illustration, this camouflage of the pipe is in perfect harmony with the cork wallpaper that covers the walls of the toilet. By the way, cork wallpaper may also be suitable for wrapping or pasting a pipe. This material has excellent sound-absorbing abilities, so it will reduce the noise level from water falling through the pipe.
- Another decoration option is to imitate tree bark on a pipe. You can simply mark it with a pattern or give it the texture of tree bark. It is not necessary to make a birch tree out of the pipeline - it can be any other tree. Used as thin branches and foliage artificial plants, the range of which in specialized stores is very large.
- You can simply wrap twine or rope around the pipe, which will also give the riser a palm trunk-like appearance. If you attach wide leaves to the top of the pipes, they will not only bring freshness to the interior, but will also completely determine the type of wood that was planned to be imitated.
You can come up with your own options, especially since such decoration does not require any special expenses.
However, this decoration method is only suitable for single pipes. To hide all plumbing and, even more so, a collector with numerous connected pipes and installed devices adjustment and control - it will not be possible to apply it.
* * * * * * *
The options presented above, as well as descriptions of the installation process of some of them, will hopefully help you decide on the appropriate way to hide pipes in the toilet, taking into account the specific area and the chosen design.
At the end of the article, watch the video, which shows the process of installing one-sided plumbing box in a cramped toilet.
Video: Construction of a plasterboard box in the toilet
