After moving to new apartment or carrying out repairs in your own home, a person will sooner or later be faced with the question of how to level. The quality of installation of interior or front door. If door leaf will not be in the opening, smooth slopes are needed to create a beautiful visual effect. Finishing work can be carried out independently, having certain information.
It is necessary to prepare for finishing work. Before you level the doorway with your own hands, you need to carry out. It is necessary to remove the wallpaper, beat off a layer of old plaster if it is in unusable condition (cracks, holes, scratches). Dust must be removed from the surface of the walls. In order for the new layer of plaster to stick better, it is necessary to open all the seams. To do this you will need a hammer drill with a spatula.
Measuring linear dimensions
After preparatory work, you need to measure the walls by level and using a metal square. These measuring tools will help you determine how different the walls are from each other. If the difference is large, you will need to install beacons or make metal structure to create a box from plasterboard.
Necessary materials and tools for work
Before starting any finishing works it is necessary to prepare the tools in advance and building materials. List of tools:
- Metal measuring angle.
- Construction level, preferably large and small.
- Plastic or metal container for mixing plaster.
- Perforator for sewing seams.
- Two spatulas - large and small.
- A grater for smoothing out unevenness.
- Perforated corners.
- If there are seams - serpyanka.
- Stationery knife.
- Scissors.
- A screwdriver if you are working with drywall.
- The attachment for the hammer drill is a mixer for mixing plaster.
This is an approximate set of tools. The list may change depending on the situation. For example, when working not in a panel house, but in a wooden house, for finishing work you may need grinder, manual circular saw, sandpaper, hand saw on wood.
If we talk about materials, the list will change depending on what a person is going to use to level. For example, when using drywall, you will need a certain number of sheets of this material, corners to create a frame, plaster for surface treatment and putty of joints. When working in a wooden house, you will need bars, lining or edged boards.
Doorway alignment methods
Both in apartments and in private houses, leveling the doorway can be done in several ways using different materials and technology. The list of materials and tools will depend on the chosen method.
Using drywall
If a person wants to use drywall to level a doorway, then he will need the following tools:
- Metal profiles.
- Roulette and level.
- Drywall (meterage must be measured in advance so as not to buy excess material).
- Electric drill.
- Metal scissors.
- Glue (when fixing directly to the wall).
- Insulation (optional).
After preparing all the tools and materials, you can begin work.
Drywall installation technology
First of all, you need to check the walls for level. If there are no large differences, you can mix glue and attach sheets of drywall to the wall without additional elements. In this case, it is necessary to set each sheet according to its level.
If there are large differences in level on the walls, you need to make a frame from metal profiles. Sheets of plasterboard are fixed on top of the frame, and the seams are covered with plaster. To fill the space between the wall and the drywall, you can use insulation (foam, mineral wool).
Important! The frame needs to be made depending on the pitch between the screws. It should be no more than 40 cm. After tightening the fasteners, it is necessary to cover the resulting holes with plaster.
Using plaster
To work with plaster you will need the following tools and materials:
- Mesh for plaster.
- Basic finishing mixture.
- Primer.
- Two spatulas.
- Rules.
- Roller or large brush for applying primer.
- Lighthouses (if there are large differences in level).
- Perforated corners for slopes.
- Container for mixing plaster.
- Drill with whisk for kneading.
Now you need to figure out how to level a doorway with plaster and what composition is best to choose.
Which plaster to choose?
There are three types of mixture for leveling walls:
- Cement is a cheap composition that is moisture resistant. It is used to make a base on which putty or paint is applied to hide gray. It is important to remember that such plaster shrinks during use.
- Gypsum is an easy-to-apply composition that is uniform. The surface is smooth after application. Gypsum plaster afraid of moisture.
- Polymer - high price this composition is formed from its characteristics. This plaster is evenly applied to work surface and at the same time not afraid of water.
The plaster must be applied in two layers - base and finish. The first can be coarse-grained, the second only fine-grained.
How to plaster correctly
After choosing a leveling compound, you can begin the main work:
- First of all, you need to prepare the work surface. To do this, it needs to be freed from wallpaper, the old layer of putty and plaster. Deepen the seams by 1 cm using a puncher. Sweep dust off the walls.
- Apply primer to the walls with a roller or brush. Let it dry.
- The next step is to install beacons. If there are no large differences in level, you can do without them. Beacons are placed strictly at level.
- Installed on the corners of the opening perforated corners. When the wall is smooth, a reinforcing mesh is fixed to it and another layer of plaster is applied.
Important! If you need to apply several layers of leveling solution, you need to wait until the previous one dries.
Using a wooden beam
In most cases, doorways are leveled using timber wooden houses. Also using wooden beam OK, you can make a high threshold or reduce the opening itself in size. To carry out the work, you will need a hand saw for wood, anti-fungal impregnation, sandpaper, varnish or paint for wood, wood screws, and a screwdriver. If there are gaps between the main wall and the installed beam, you can close it with an additional cover.
How to reduce the width of a doorway?
During redevelopment or large-scale construction work, situations may arise in which it is required. You can use several materials for this:
- Brick. The material most often used for wall construction. With its help you can quickly reduce the width of the opening. You will need mortar and red brick. Its quantity will depend on the value being reduced. For additional fixation, you can use metal rods, which are fixed in the main wall and in the seams of fresh masonry.
- Drywall and wood. Using drywall you can make openings of any shape. For this purpose it is created metal frame in the form desired by the owner of the home. Sections of drywall are secured to the resulting sheathing with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to level uneven places and holes with screws with plaster. Wood is used to reduce the openings of entrance doors.
- Plaster. If you need to reduce the opening by a small amount, you can use a layer of leveling compound. Experienced finishers recommend strengthening it with reinforcing mesh.
The choice of material will depend on the desired shape of the future opening.
How to widen a doorway?
To increase the width of the doorway, you can use several methods:
- Rude. A method involving the use of a sledgehammer, a jackhammer and a hammer drill. Before using the tool, you need to mark the required size of the opening. You cannot use the rough method for thin and weak walls. The impact load may cause cracks to form or the wall to collapse.
- Dry. This method involves using a grinder or a gas cutter. When using a grinder, you need to change diamond wheels frequently. When this tool is used, a large amount of dust is generated.
- Wet. A method similar to the previous one. Only when cutting concrete or brick is a special cutter with a built-in spray gun used.
When carrying out any expansion work, it is worth initially dismantling the previous door frame and determine where the wiring, pipes and metal elements in the walls. If tools get into metal, you can break it or harm your health.
Conclusion
In conclusion, we can say that construction work Any person who does not have additional skills can level, widen or narrow a doorway. It is enough to choose the right materials and follow the sequence of actions.
A door that suddenly no longer allows you into your house or room easily and without the slightest resistance is not a pleasant surprise. And in such a situation, you should not rely on the Russian “maybe”, hoping that this structure will “come to its senses” and return to its original state. It is much easier and more reliable for you personally to figure out what to do if the door is warped, and to implement the chosen solution, that is, to adjust the door itself.
Reasons for door misalignment
If the door is wooden, then the cause of the distortion was most likely exposure to moisture. Water, getting into the thickness of the door, caused it to swell, and as a result, the door began to “cling” to the door frame.
A heavy wooden door can warp due to improper selection of hinges for it. Remember that solid wooden doors (that you could hardly lift off the floor before you hung them in the doorway) should be hung on three, not two, hinges.
But metal doors are not subject to deformation under the influence of water. But they can just as easily become warped if the hinges were chosen incorrectly for their weight. Another reason why misalignment may occur metal door, is its incorrect initial setting.
In addition, both wooden doors and metal doors may become warped due to a violation of the geometry of the doorway. This often occurs in new houses in which shrinkage of structures is still ongoing.
Misalignment due to door hinges
If the cause of the imbalance, in your opinion, was the incorrect quantity door hinges(or using loops from more soft material, than was necessary) you can go in two ways:
- firstly, simply replace the hinges with more powerful ones;
- secondly, add a third (and if necessary, a fourth) loop.
Now at construction stores can be found door hinges, which do not require insertion into either the door leaf or the frame. Therefore, they can be installed in place without even removing the door leaf from the hinges (just remember to first adjust the position of the door before screwing new hinges to it).
Perhaps a small washer placed in the middle of the door hinge will also help solve the problem. It will raise the entire door leaf by 1-2 millimeters (depending on its thickness) and the problem will be solved.
Changing the geometry of a doorway
In this case, the possibility that the door itself will stop clinging to the bottom or top of the door frame still exists. However, during the time this happens, the door leaf can be severely damaged.
Before you make the final decision - to hang the door, sharpen it (if we are talking about a wooden door) or leave everything untouched for now - pay attention to the gaps that have appeared between the door leaf and the frame. If they become very noticeable, it is better to rehang the door. Do not forget to also track whether the right angle between the horizontal and vertical elements door frame. If the distortion becomes severe, you will have to change the door frame. You can also try simply rearranging the old door frame if you can remove it carefully.
Swollen door
If a wooden door has absorbed water and swelled, then you should not hope that when it dries it will return to its previous shape. Most often, after exposure to water, the warping process begins, and the door still will not close perfectly. In this situation, you can also choose one of three solutions:
- for now, leave everything as it is in the hope that the door will “come to its senses”;
- replace the door leaf;
- replace the door frame.
However, first of all, you need to eliminate the reason why the water got so close to your door. When it comes to doors inside an apartment or house, the reason usually lies in poor ventilation. Most often, bathroom doors suffer from moisture, so be sure to check whether a piece of paper is attracted to the door located there. ventilation grille with one window open in the apartment. If there is no draft, then the issue of ventilation will have to be taken seriously.
Most often, poor ventilation occurs in houses and apartments in which new plastic windows. Lack of cracks for which the old ones were “famous” wooden windows, led to the fact that air from the street enters the apartment only when the window is open. And since the windows rarely open in winter, the ventilation in the kitchen (if there is no electric hood) and in the bathrooms stops working. To solve this problem, it is recommended to install exhaust valves on all windows (or just always keep one window slightly open).
If the entrance wooden door has been damaged by water, then you will have to make a canopy over it (and if there is one, then expand it so that during rain drops do not fall on the door leaf). Also recommended wooden door cover in several layers protective compounds for wood (from all sides, each time waiting until they are completely absorbed).
The question about adjusting doors is relevant at any time and for absolutely all people. No one is immune from minor breakdowns in the house, especially if it concerns such frequently used structures. How to cope with the problem should be considered in relation to specific elements of filling the doorway.
Sometimes interior doors require adjustment
Possible problems
Adjustment interior doors is absolutely always required, regardless of whether problems have already arisen or while the structure is functioning without failures. If you support normal condition door and its elements, you can significantly extend the service life. If the moment has been missed and you have to carry out emergency targeted adjustment of interior doors with your own hands, then it is important to know what problems arise most often and where to look for their cause, solutions and options for preventing recurrences in the future.
- The door doesn't close well. If areas of rubbing are noticeable on the floor, you need to repair the door hinges and adjust the position of the door leaf. If there is contact with the box, set the position relative to the frame. When fixation problems occur closed position design, you need to pay attention to the lock.
- The doors sagged. Most often, this is caused by sagging of the canvas under its own weight, up to the curvature of the frame.
- Creak when moving. Most likely, the lubricant in the hinges has simply dried out and needs to be renewed. The cause may also be misalignment in the door frame.
- The door won't open. A box may also be involved, especially if there has been a sudden increase in humidity levels. Another option is the lock breaking. Loops in in this case rarely break.
Most often, the reason lies precisely in the loops. It is very easy to fix most of these problems yourself.
The most common problem with a door is sagging.
Because specific situation may be associated with several factors, you should consider all the options separately and figure out how to make the repair yourself various parts door block.
Door frame
The most difficult situation is the adjustment of doors associated with deformation of the frame. In this case, the structure is most susceptible to destruction and sometimes it is impossible to fix the problem with your own hands without completely redoing the box. If you ignore the situation, the canvas shifts diagonally, begins to rub and can even tear the posts off the wall.
How to adjust an interior door if the frame is skewed? First of all, you need to remove the fabric from the loops. Next, it is necessary to take measurements and identify exactly where the displacement occurred. Be sure to check the diagonal, so it will be much easier to find the problem area where the door structure is sagging.
To further adjust the door, you need to remove everything decorative elements and screw additional bolts into the structure to secure the correct position. After this you need to delete the old one polyurethane foam and, having placed the spacers, foam the seams again.
Adjusting the door frame is considered the most difficult malfunction associated with its deformation
Loops
The most problems are associated with adjusting door hinges. Several situations can be distinguished here:
- The hinges are too deep. There are two ways to adjust interior doors with this problem. If the difference with the norm is insignificant, you need to loosen the screws securing the fittings plates. If the depth is more than 0.5 mm, a substrate, for example, made of cardboard, will help to raise the hinges.
- The loops protrude above the loot or canvas. In this case, the canvas will not fit tightly to the box. In order to correct the situation, you simply need to remove an additional layer of material from the problem area. This can be done conveniently using a miniature sanding attachment.
- Creak. The problem may be due to dirt getting into the hinge. In this case, it is necessary to clean the parts and lubricate them with oil or silicone. If the door sags slightly, you need to adjust the hinges. Sometimes the problem lies in the rotating mechanism, in this case, repair of the door hinges or complete replacement of the part will be required.
- The door sagged. If the door sag, the reason may be that the fastenings on the hinges have become loose. In order to lift a sagging door, you need to tighten the screws. If this is not the reason, you can put it under a canopy rubber gasket. In some models you need to knock out the axle. IN plastic blocks adjustment is made by tightening the hinges with a hex wrench.
When the door sag best option- this is to tighten the screws on the hinges
Handles and locks
If the door leaf is not fixed in the opening when closing, check whether the position of the tongue in the lock matches the hole in the counter plate. If not, the plate needs to be moved to the desired level. The second option is to adjust the position of the bolt.
To troubleshoot locking hardware problems, you need to determine the exact problem
How to adjust the door lock if, on the contrary, it jams? If the reason is not that the door sank under its own weight, then you need to do the following: first, look at how the halyard tongue moves; it may be enough to simply lift it with a screwdriver. If the problem persists, disassemble the handle structure and check the condition of the internal mechanism. Its parts may become dislodged or broken, in which case replacement is required. If the handle is difficult to turn, simple lubrication of the mechanism may be necessary.
To prevent doors from breaking, it is necessary to carry out a preventive inspection of the structure and correct breakdowns before they become apparent.
With proper care door structure You shouldn't have such problems. If a breakdown cannot be avoided, now you know how to fix it yourself.
U The installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!
You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in choosing doors, fittings and opening sizes, and help the craftsmen do everything efficiently.
Door opening dimensions
- Opening width
The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).
- Opening height
For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. Doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.
Here are some examples of correct openings:
- Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
- 70x200 - opening 79x206
- 60x200 - opening 69x206
- 60x190 - opening 69x196
With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team yourself during the repair process.
Door widths for different rooms
If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:
- doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
- bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that the door can easily pass through washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
- The door leaf for the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with passage into the kitchen.
- V dressing room Usually they make the width 60-70cm.
When is it necessary to install extensions?
When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on the other side of the wall.
If you install it, it will be good decision, which will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the additions can be selected, for example, to match the MDF panel.
The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more.
Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?
It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the frame is placed flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor.
If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.
Scheme for opening interior doors
Usually, if in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some open into rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the characteristics of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match.
This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us: 
This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward: 
It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.
Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.
In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.
At what height from the floor should the door be?
The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows, do not forget to do supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.
Installation of interior doors during apartment renovation and the sequence of work stages.
In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity When carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in adjacent rooms.
Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper adhesive, especially plaster, dry quite quickly long time, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.
However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.
Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!
Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with the platbands clearly adjacent to the floor.
If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.
If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.
What to do if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?
A common mistake repair teams make is openings that are too high, because maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and better - 206 cm. from the floor covering.
Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.
Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.
Another option: if the platbands are flat in shape, saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from extensions that are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).
If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since polyurethane foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.
Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.
How to straighten a crooked doorway?
First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions by attaching a long rule, a plank or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.
To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.
Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.
If you understand that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons, aligning them vertically and re-gluing the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!
How to install a door in a crooked opening?
But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:
- Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
- Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
- Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling out the platbands from the grooves. This good decision problems, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will tear out the hinges.
The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.
What if the door is located close to the wall?
In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the platbands, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: 
However, there are several other options to solve this problem:
- If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw a wooden beam with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
- Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
- During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..
Installing an interior threshold
The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covers the joint of the floor when closed door should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:
Common error repair teams— this is the wrong location of the thresholds! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors.
Installation of interior doors in the bathroom
For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.
If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.
A common mistake is making a threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of the wet room are disrupted, and in the future, mold may appear.
Preparing interior door openings
Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.
If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.
If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening Necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening doors with self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counter part, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.
If inside metal profile the block is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.
It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.
Preparing the opening for sliding doors
For those who want to install sliding doors opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.
At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.
Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment
If you don’t want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door, it surprisingly transforms the room: 
Preparing the flooring before installing doors
A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between floor covering and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.
A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.
Storing doors after purchase
To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on flat surface lying down. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.
Doors, trims and frames can change their sizes after changes in humidity. Due to the build-up of humidity after cold weather, it is necessary to store the door and molding indoors for several days before installation. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.
Which loops to choose?
- If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
- If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
- If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height
The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the hinge is 3 mm, then these are good hinges; a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. The most common door hinges come in several types:
- universal hinges - these are traditional mortise hinges familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.
- - not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design - both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. During the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.
- — time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening
How to choose locks and latches?
It is best to choose locks and latches based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very high-quality options. Don't skimp on them so as not to suffer later.
Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, so you should first ask knowledgeable people(not sellers), and do not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start making noise. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers know these models well.
You can buy classic latches/locks. It would be best to choose them with plastic tongues, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clank like metal ones.
Sometimes it happens that the new latch is difficult to operate. In this case, place a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.
Door handle height from floor
For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the design of the door, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.
Almost all models door handles The kit includes self-tapping screws that are too long, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw handles with their own self-tapping screws.
How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?
How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.
How to check the work of a door installation technician?
- Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps
- The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate without play.
- The canvas should evenly fit along its entire length to the rebate or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed by the canvas.
- The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
- The box is fixed in the opening not only by construction foam, but also with the help of fasteners
- The canvas should not close or open on its own.
- The fittings must rotate freely
- The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.
How to choose a door installation specialist? Basic methods.
1. The master must highly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (at a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and must provide professional equipment: a miter saw, a cutting table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a hammer drill, a pin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read
Door misalignment occurs due to a violation of the geometry of the door frame. Doors open randomly under the influence of their gravity, close poorly - they touch the porch or become completely jammed. Let's take a closer look possible reasons door misalignment and outline the procedure for solving the problem in each specific case.
Even the best of doors need repairs from time to time. Due to various reasons they do not function as they should - they open spontaneously, touch the narthex when closing, and jam. The main thing in such a situation is to determine the reason in order to outline a rational solution.
Reasons for door misalignment
Carefully inspect the door to determine the cause of the misalignment. Pay attention to the condition of the hinges, evaluate the strength of the door frame in the opening. Next, examine the condition of the locks and the door leaf as a whole.
Typically, misalignment occurs due to one of the following reasons:
- deformation or loosening of hinges;
- door frame deformation;
- violation of the geometry of the door leaf.
What to do if the loops are at fault
During long-term use of doors, due to wear on the surfaces of the hinges, gradual subsidence of the door leaf occurs. In this case, the lower edge of the door touches the threshold. The problem can be solved radically - by replacing the hinges, or more in a simple way- installing a steel washer between the hinges suitable size or wire rings. The second method is cheaper, but can be recommended as temporary: after all, the washer, and especially the wire ring, are quite noticeable and look unesthetically pleasing.
An important point: when purchasing hinges, pay attention to the size and thickness of the plate, as well as the location of the holes for the screws; these parameters of the old and new hinges must match. The easiest way is to remove the old hinges and go to the store with them. If you cannot find hinges that exactly match the parameters, take hinges with a mounting plate larger size, but in this case seat they will have to be enlarged using a chisel. The loop should fit tightly in the recess. If the holes for the screws do not match, you will have to make new ones. But the old holes must be filled with wooden pegs, pre-lubricated with glue.
Door misalignment can be caused by deformation of the hinges under excessive load, when the weight of the door leaf is too large for a given configuration. In this case, it is necessary to replace the hinges with new, more durable ones. In some cases, it is recommended to install an additional loop for the most rational load distribution.
Another reason for misalignment due to the “fault of the hinges” may be loosening of the screws. The solution is obvious: replace the screws with longer ones. If even a long screw turns and does not hold well, you need to squeeze a little PVA glue into the hole before screwing it in. The next day, after the glue has dried, tighten the screw further.
Eliminating door frame defects
Over time, the door frame may become loose in its fastenings and sag. There can be many reasons: installation errors, moisture, significant weight of the door leaf, long-term operation. The problem can be solved by strengthening the fastenings of the door frame or by radically reinstalling it. The choice of method depends on the state of the fastening.
In any case, you will need to remove the trim and assess the situation. Pay attention to the integrity of the box, the strength of its installation in the opening (wobbly or not) and the condition of the mounting foam.
If the connection between the elements of the box is broken, remove it and repair it: restore the fastening with self-tapping screws (the parts must first be “seated” with glue). Then install it in place.
If everything is in order with the state of the connections, the cause of the misalignment may be a violation of the geometry of the box: it has sagged somewhere, you need to determine in which direction it “took”. The main load falls on the box stand on which the hinges are located. Most often it is this side that gets loose, pay attention to it first.
In such a situation, you need to remove the polyurethane foam - completely or in a separate area. Next you need to put the box in the correct position and secure it with wooden wedges. The wedges need to be tapped in pairs, opposite each other (there are two wedges on each side that support each other, this way you will ensure the most reliable fixation of the box in the opening). After driving the wedges, check the correct installation - hang the door and check how it closes, whether the locks and latches work. The door should not touch the frame; there should be equal gaps around the perimeter.
Next, you need to close the door tightly, and insert strips of cardboard folded several times around the perimeter between the canvas and the frame to prevent the possibility of deformation of the box due to expansion of the polyurethane foam. The next stage is filling the space between the slope and the box with polyurethane foam. Wait until completely dry. It's better to leave the box for a day. Then trim off the excess and install the trim in place.
Misalignment due to the fault of the door leaf
Doors made of wood are sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature - a consequence of swelling wood fibers there may be a change in the size of the door (the doors do not close because they are swollen when open, or, on the contrary, the doors are jammed due to swelling when closed).
In such a situation, first of all, you need to eliminate the cause - bring the microclimate parameters to normal: important good work ventilation and maintaining a sufficient temperature level.
If the integrity of the door leaf is preserved and the door is simply swollen a little, it may be possible to solve the situation by restoring the normal microclimate - the doors will return to normal without outside help.
In a more complex situation, one can observe an increase in the size of the panels and, as a result, destruction of the connection between the elements of the door leaf. In this case, it is advisable to contact a carpentry workshop - without special equipment it will be difficult to restore integrity.
What to do if the door is jammed
If, due to any of the reasons described above, the door is jammed and it is impossible to open it, try to perform “resuscitation” - still enter the room for further investigation - to find out the reasons for the distortion and solve the problem.
First, check the operation of the locks and latches (to exclude the possibility of jamming due to the fault of the fittings). Next, carefully tap the door around the perimeter with a hammer - be sure to place a board under the hammer so as not to disturb the coating. If the door doesn't budge mechanical impact and still “sits” firmly in the opening, dismantle it: remove the trim, remove the mounting foam, the mounting anchors can be cut hacksaw blade. Carefully remove door block and eliminate the cause of the jam using one of the methods described above.
