Options for home stoves. Scheme of a brick stove for a private wood-burning house

Despite the rapid development of new technologies and improvements in home heating methods, the old proven brick stoves for wood-burning cottages still do not lose their relevance.

Indeed, often in houses remote from civilization or located in areas where there are power outages and gas supply is not expected at all, wood-burning brick stoves are the only possible means of heating the room.

But sometimes people deliberately choose brick stoves for their country house, despite all the benefits of civilization. After all, they help create that unique comfort, give the warmth and atmosphere of solitude that we all look for when going out of town.

We’ll talk about the advantages, design principles and features of laying a brick stove with your own hands today in this article.

Experience craftsmen and engineers-inventors gave the world a considerable number of types of stoves, from which it is not difficult to choose the only one for the dacha that will quickly warm up the room in the winter cold and help prepare food.

But, despite all the variety of stone stoves, they can all be divided into 3 categories:

cooking;
heating and cooking;
heating structures.

In addition, you can also find multifunctional designs that combine a fireplace, water circuit, etc. Therefore, before starting construction brick oven at the dacha, you should immediately decide on the type of construction.

Cooking type of construction. This type of stove is chosen by cottage owners only if the house is used only in the summer. This option works well in combination with a water heating tank. Often, owners install such a stove in a house where there is gas and electricity supply, but in order to save money, it is more rational to use a wood-burning stove in the summer.

The design is a stove with a hob, a water-heating tank and an oven.

Furnaces for summer cottages are also divided according to the type of construction:

Russian;
Dutch (Dutch);
Swedish (Swedish).

Of course, today you can find many other variations of wood-burning stoves, but these are the most common, which have proven themselves well due to their high efficiency, reliability and efficiency.

Russian stove

This design has been used by our ancestors for centuries, and its main feature is the arrangement of a bed and shelf for drying shoes and clothes. If the house is in use all year round, then this option is very effective. But for summer cottage It is better to refuse the Russian stove.

The fact is that the high efficiency of the Russian stove is achieved only with constant combustion. If you leave such a stove for the winter, then it will take more than one day to then dry it and “put” the stove into operation. Due to its technical features, it quickly gains moisture without a firebox.

In addition, when a wet brick is fired for the first time, it may crack.

The Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, so it will not always look appropriate in a small dacha.

The only advantage is the unpretentiousness of the material itself for the construction of the furnace and sufficient simple diagram masonry

Dutch

One of the most popular types of stone stoves, the design of which involves the presence of a smoke channel. Thanks to this, the Dutch oven effectively heats several rooms at once.

The advantages include:

small dimensions;
high efficiency;
fuel efficiency.

But the disadvantages of such a stove are high requirements for the quality of building materials and the quality of firewood. In addition, at sub-zero temperatures outside, such a stove takes a long time to warm up, so it is better to constantly heat it.

Swede

This stove is deservedly popular in our country, as it was designed taking into account the harsh climate of the northern countries. The advantage of the Swede is its compactness, high performance, fast heating and the ability to heat several rooms at once.

This is achieved thanks to the special design of the furnace. The back side with the fireplace usually opens into the living room, and on the front side there is an oven and hob. For a summer residence, this type of stove is the most optimal choice.

The only drawback of the Swede is the high requirements for the quality of the material. If a Russian stove can be made from leftover material, then for a Swedish stove you will have to purchase high-quality red ceramic bricks.

Also, high demands are placed on Swedish firewood. They must be well dried, otherwise the stove will not give off heat.

Features of the design of a brick stove for a summer residence

Depending on the type and design, the oven can perform the following functions:

Cooking (frying, boiling, stewing, baking, etc.).
Drying shoes and clothes, as well as preparing food for the winter (mushrooms, berries).
Heating of beds.
Opportunity to admire an open flame on winter evenings.

In addition to the functional classification, before building a brick stove for a summer residence, you need to decide on the configuration.

rectangular heating stove;
T-shaped;
round oven;
Russian stove with a stove bench;
little one.

The size of the oven is also important. The large oven design with thick walls can distribute heat over 50 square meters. But in order to warm them up well, it will take at least two hours, which is not always convenient.

This especially causes discomfort at the dacha, where the owners only visit on weekends. A cold house will warm up for at least 3-4 hours before the room temperature returns to normal.

A small oven big house do not warm up. Its heat is enough for a room of 15-20 square meters. meters. At the same time, it will warm up in 30-40 minutes, giving off heat around. In addition, we should not forget about the efficiency of the stove. For a large stove, you need to take care of the supply of firewood in advance and prepare a large one in the summer.

A stone stove also has a significant drawback - the inability to heat distant rooms of the house. That is why in large houses with several rooms, 2-3 stoves are placed, each of which has its own chimney and performs its own function.

According to the principle of construction, brick ovens can be:

Duct with forced movement of gases.
Bell furnaces with free gas movement.

Channel stoves include the usual “Dutch” or “Swedish” stoves. The combustion of wood occurs in the firebox, from which a smoke channel extends. Under the influence of draft, combustion products are discharged through this smoke channel.

The main objective of this design is to maximize the heating of the furnace wall, and after that the heat will spread throughout the entire room for a long time.

Despite the simplicity of the design, such a stove has a number of disadvantages.

It all depends on the traction force. The narrow channel obstructs the air flow and requires a high enough chimney to overcome this resistance to the flow. In houses with low ceilings, this is not always convenient. And as a result, after installing the furnace, the owners are faced with the problem of poor draft in the furnace.
In addition, the principle of the channel structure of the furnace involves the concentration of hot air at the top of the furnace. That is, most of the heat is transferred to the upper part. Because of this, downstairs, near the floor, it can be quite cold.
The efficiency of such units does not exceed 60-65%. And the average, with standard traction, is even less - 40-45%.
Due to the large design, such a stove takes a long time to heat up. To heat a structure “from scratch” will take 2.5-3 hours.

Furnaces with free movement of gases show themselves in a completely different way in everyday life. Their principle was first described by Lomonosov, and later refined by Kuznetsov, which is why in everyday life such furnaces were called “blacksmiths”.

The operating principle is based on the movement of free gases. As we know from physics, hot air rises, displacing cold air. In such a furnace, the firebox and combustion chamber are combined, and hot air circulates freely from one chamber to another.

Such ovens also have a second and sometimes a third chamber, which are connected to each other by a dry seam located at the bottom of the chamber.

Features of laying a brick oven with your own hands

What nuances do you need to know before starting to lay the stove?

Materials needed for laying the stove.

Tools needed for laying the stove:

Building level.
Shovel
Construction marker.
Measuring tape (roulette).
Construction plumb.
Goniometer.

Important! A lot when laying a stove depends on the quality of the clay. It should be moderately thick and have medium fat content. Red river clay, which has lain in the open air for at least two years, is considered ideal for constructing a stove. Clay, under the influence of precipitation and natural factors, becomes plastic, homogeneous and will firmly hold the masonry.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

If all conditions of the instructions are met, laying the furnace will take 30-35 days. Order is of great importance here. You should not violate it or try to introduce your own adjustments into the design. The laying of rows, their number and installation of elements are clearly verified and require strict adherence to the instructions.

Below is a diagram of the arrangement of a brick oven with a hob and oven.

Step 1. Determine the location of the furnace.

Once you have decided where you will place the stove: in the corner, in the center or against the wall, you should clearly mark on the floor the location of the stone structure.

In order to clearly guess with the construction of the chimney and not run into problems when laying the pipe wooden beam roofs, we use a plumb line.

We draw a diagram of the placement of the stove and the location of the firebox, chimney, hob and oven.
Consider the location of windows and doors that will impede the free circulation of warm air.

In order for the stove to serve for a long time and delight you with its maximum performance, we will give several recommendations regarding its placement. And it's not just about following the rules. fire safety, but also the effectiveness of its work.

Today we propose to consider the features of a brick stove with a hob, since it is this type that is very popular among summer residents. Our detailed diagram The order will help you build brick stoves for a wood-burning cottage.

Step 2. We build a foundation for the stove.

The construction of any furnace begins with the construction of a foundation. This is a very important step on which the strength will depend, reliable design and its effectiveness.

Ideally, of course, design a stove before building a house. Then the ideal place for the stove will be allocated, and the foundation will be laid at the stage of erecting the floors. But often people think about laying a stove after furnishing their home. That's why we chose this option so that you can build a foundation from scratch in an already finished house.

The foundation should in no case be connected to the main foundation of the house. When the house shrinks or other phenomena occur, the base of the stove should not be deformed.

Using a construction marker, mark a rectangle on the floor along which you want to cut the boards.
Keep in mind that the size of the foundation should exceed the size of the stove by 10-15 cm on each side.
Using a grinder, we cut out the boards according to the markings and move them to the sides.
Now you need to go 70 cm deep into the ground to build solid foundation under the stove. To do this we use a bayonet shovel. Focus on the layer of soil that will freeze in winter. IN middle lane Russia, it can reach 80-100 cm. In this case, you will have to increase the depth of the pit. It is very important to properly insulate the perimeter of the foundation. If you are building a stove in an already finished house, where the common foundation is well insulated around the perimeter, then you can dig a hole of 30 cm. This will be enough.
After a pit has been dug in the ground along the perimeter of the marking, we proceed to the construction of wooden formwork. The formwork functions as a skeleton that forms the foundation. For formwork you can use plywood boards, old floors, etc.
This will not affect the quality and strength of the foundation in any way. Measure the length and width of the hole you dug and cut the boards to this size. Using nails, put together the formwork. It should end 14 cm before the start of the finished floor.
After the formwork is built, it is necessary to protect the wood from moisture that will be contained in the cement mortar. To do this, we lay thick polyethylene around the perimeter and connect it to the walls with a construction stapler. Waterproofing is the most important component of the work when constructing a foundation. If the frozen, moisture-saturated soil comes into direct contact with the concrete base of the furnace, then a force equal to 25 tons per 1 square meter, which leads to destruction
Now you can start pouring the cement mortar, but before that you need to create a strong cushion that retains moisture. At the bottom of the hole, pour medium-hard gravel and add 10-15 cm of sand.
We fill the foundation with cement mortar to the height of the formwork, not reaching the finished floor by 14 cm.
We lay a reinforcing metal mesh on top.
Level the top well with a shovel and check with a building level how even the surface is. Now you need to wait 24-28 days, depending on the quality of the cement mortar, until the foundation is completely dry. Do not rush under any circumstances and do not lay the stove before this time, otherwise it will become deformed within a few weeks.
On a flat and well-dried concrete surface, we lay two continuous rows of bricks along the perimeter of the foundation. Thus, our foundation reaches the finished floor.
Now it is necessary to lay a layer of roofing material on top of the masonry in 2 layers, which will serve as waterproofing.
The solid foundation for the brick oven is ready - you can proceed directly to the laying. But, before laying bricks on the mortar, it is better to lay out the entire structure, according to the diagram, “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you will be able to see difficult moments at the draft stage that you will have to pay special attention to.

Attention! It is also recommended that each new layer be done dry first. This is especially true for beginners who are faced with laying a stove for the first time. After laying bricks on the mortar, it will be difficult for you to correct your mistakes and errors.

Step 3. Preparing bricks for masonry.

Immediately measure the amount of brick that you will need for the first stage of work. Please note that laying a stove is a complex and labor-intensive process and cannot be completed in a day. Be aware that beginners will be able to complete 4-5 rows per day, no more.

Take a portion of red ceramic bricks, clean it well and soak it in water for 12 hours.

When you lay out a firebox made of fireclay bricks, you just need to rinse it with water.

The process of preparing material for masonry also includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts and cutting off the corners. Look at the diagram to see what shape of brick you will need for each row. It’s better to do this right away, so that later, when laying the row, you won’t be distracted by these moments.

Splitting the brick also needs to be done at this stage. Keep in mind that before “beating off” the required part of the brick, according to the diagram, you first need to make a groove.

In this case, one longitudinal groove is enough for ½ brick. But if you need to chip off 1/6 or 1/8 of a brick, then the groove is made on all sides of the brick.

Step 4. Prepare the mortar for masonry.

The correct solution for laying a stove is the key to its efficient operation. If you decide to lay a brick stove for a wood-burning cottage with your own hands, then it is better to prepare the solution yourself.

Video. Furnace laying. We make a solution from clay with our own hands.

Although on sale now you can find ready-made factory mortars for laying a furnace, which are of good quality.

For this you will need sand and red river clay. It is clay that is the very irreplaceable material, without which no one is conceivable. masonry mortar. Due to its unique properties, soft and plastic, it, under the influence of fire, turns into a durable stone.

After firing, it acquires the strength of a brick and can withstand high temperatures. However, in order for it to be truly strong and reliably hold the masonry together, it is necessary to maintain the correct proportion of all ingredients.

One of the main indicators of clay quality is its fat content. If you take “skinny” clay, then when heated, it may crack.

We will not indicate the exact amount of ingredients, since there is no ideal proportion. Depending on the quality of the clay and its fat content, the solution is made “by eye”.

It should have the consistency of thick homemade sour cream and should not drip from the trowel. At the same time, in no case should there be grains in it, so the solution should be thoroughly kneaded.

We measure out the required amount of clay that will be needed for masonry and fill it with water. There is no need to immediately prepare the solution for the entire oven if you do not plan to finish the masonry in 1 day. Measure out exactly as much as you can complete.

Attention. Clay mortar is not suitable for arranging the foundation and chimney. Typically, cement mortar is used for this.

Step 5. Build the oven.

The first row is very important in the oven and the entire shape of the structure depends on it. Therefore, first lay out the first continuous row “dry”, and place a building level on top. Maintain even angles. They can be checked during the process with a plumb line.

Before you start laying bricks, we recommend that you read the detailed instructions and tips for building a stove.

Video. We are learning to lay a small stove.

Advice! You may not get straight seams the first time. To do this, you can use wooden slats, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the seam. They are laid on a row, after which the solution is applied and the second row is laid. Prepare enough slats to cover three rows. By the time you finish the third row, you can remove the sizing tool from the first row and use it further.

Before laying the first row of bricks on the roofing felt, make markings with chalk.

Advice! To prevent the stove from being pulled to the side when laying, and to avoid the need to check the verticality of the stove after each row, you can stretch 4 vertical threads in the corners, which are secured to the ceiling. They will serve as a kind of beacon guides for the furnace.

The 2nd row repeats the first. Watch the thickness of the seams. The blower door is also installed here.
To do this, we pass burnt metal wire through the holes and twist it into a bundle. We lay the second end of the wire between the bricks.
The 3rd row forms the ash chamber, in which all the ash and ash accumulate.
All gaps between the brick and metal elements must be filled with asbestos cord, which levels out the temperature difference when firing the stove.
4, 5th row begins to form a firebox with fireclay bricks.
We install a grate on top. Maintain a seam gap of 3-5 mm. This gap must be left taking into account the expansion of the metal at high temperatures. Fill this gap with sand. We block the ash door with a brick. Installing the oven.
6th row. We begin to form the chimney pipe and lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.
7, 8, 9th rows - laying the firebox with fireclay bricks.
On the 10th row we close the oven. We create a partition from brick, raising it by 2 cm. Apply a clay-sand mortar to the oven, to the level of the partition. Here we place a metal corner (on the front side under the slab).
We lay an asbestos strip on the 10th row before installing the hob on the next row. The fact is that metal elements tend to expand when heated, so it is important to lay a layer of asbestos.
11th row – install the hob. Please note that the slab is placed directly into the recesses on the brick. To clearly understand the marking of these recesses, number each brick when you lay the row and, with a marker, mark the place where you need to cut it with a grinder.

After this, assemble the row for the solution. Keep in mind that the entire row is placed on a clay-sand mortar, but the hob itself is placed on a clay-asbestos liquid mortar. To prepare it, take a small portion of the prepared clay-sand mortar and add crushed asbestos, knead well.

Attention! If the hob burners have different diameters, then it is necessary to place the larger ones above the combustion chamber, and the smaller holes above the oven.

Attention! When laying out smoke channels, make sure that the solution does not remain inside. Use a washcloth or trowel to remove any remaining solution, otherwise it will then interfere with the unhindered circulation of hot air.

17,18th row. We cover the cooking surface, carefully filling the seams with 3-5 mm of solution.
Rows 19 and 20 – on the right side we install doors through which the oven will be cleaned.
We make the 21-23rd row according to the chimney ordering scheme.
24th row - we lay the last steel plate on top of the bricks, which ensures the zigzag movement of gas in the smoke channel.
25th row - place a metal sheet.
On the 26th row we install a valve, taking into account a gap of 5 mm, between which we lay an asbestos cord.

Row 27-28 – lay out a hole for the chimney.

On the 29th row, the masonry is expanded by ¼ brick to create a cornice. Here we block all the channels, leaving only the pipe.
On the 30th row we make an additional extension of 5 cm.
On the 31st row, we reduce the size of the oven to its original form.

Step 6. Laying the chimney.

The location of the chimney is indicated at the stove design stage. But in any case, for normal draft, the height of the chimney should not be less than 5 meters.

Also make sure that there is no residual solution left inside, otherwise it will interfere with normal traction.

When leading the pipe out of the house through the roof, consider the height of the canopy. It should be 50 cm below the top of the chimney, otherwise turbulence may form around the chimney.

We complete the chimney laying with a metal grate that prevents debris from getting inside the chimney. You can also install a cap (umbrella) on the top of the chimney, which will reliably protect the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Finishing the furnace.

After the oven is completely laid out, you can begin finishing cladding. As the outer layer, you can use decorative facing stone, ceramic tiles, and red brick.

Remember that anyone additional material applied to the outside of the stove will reduce heat output.

Therefore, if you are more interested in the efficiency of the stove than its appearance, you can simply cover the brick with a layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Drying the oven.

Having completely finished laying the stove, it is necessary to dry it thoroughly, since it now contains a large amount of moisture from the solution.

To do this, open the combustion chamber door and leave the stove for 7-10 days. Brick and clay-sand must dry well, otherwise the “raw masonry” may become deformed from the high temperature.

If you build a stove in warm weather, it will dry out naturally. In cold weather, use a fan.

Another option for forced drying is a 200-300W electric light bulb, which is installed inside the firebox and left to burn there for 7-10 days. But this is a necessary measure that must be taken only if the temperature outside is less than zero degrees Celsius.

Step 9. Lighting the stove.

When all the finishing work is completed and the stove is well dried, it is necessary to carry out the first test kindling. This is not a tricky matter, but it is better to follow our advice to avoid troubles and achieve maximum efficiency ovens:

Do not use trash or glossy magazines for kindling.
Keep flammable items away from the stove.
Close the firebox door tightly before the flame burns.
Don't put the oven on high heat right away. It needs to be warmed up gradually.
Use only high-quality, well-dried firewood.

The video describes in detail the process of laying a simple brick kiln on a dry

Video. Detailed laying of a brick stove for a summer residence.

There is a large number various ovens, which can serve both for heating only and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room the desired option is selected that will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with mandatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with instructions can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure yourself is quite difficult, since each stove maker has his own achievements and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.

Criteria for choosing a brick kiln

If you nevertheless decide to carry out such work yourself, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the stove, but also to its heating capabilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.

When choosing a stove by size, you need to take into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning to install the stove in a particular location.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by their form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a couch or stove, and others.

Stoves can only be used to heat living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between living rooms and the kitchen.

For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that could be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.

Table for choosing a stove depending on the area to be heated and the location of the rooms:

Room area, m²	Furnace surface, m²
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

All these criteria must be determined in advance, and, based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or another model.

Types of brick stoves

As mentioned above, the design of stoves can be different - both very difficult to construct and quite simple. The most famous models are “Dutch”, “Swedish”, “Russian”. Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. Thus, stoves made by Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.

There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which smoke exhaust channels, fireboxes, ash chambers and cleaning chambers pass.

Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a water heating tank and a drying chamber.

Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.

There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and winter. They are often equipped with a heated couch, which can serve as the basis for a bed.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Prices for finished heating stoves

heating stoves

Choosing a place to install the stove

It is also important to provide the correct location for installing the stove. Optimal place is the crosshairs of the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is advisable that the structure be located close to the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, then it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the entire house.

When choosing a location, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:

The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
When constructing a furnace, it is necessary to provide for it separate foundation, not connected to the base of the house.
The chimney pipe must pass between the beams of the attic floor and not bump into them when it is lifted - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being erected in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
For fire safety purposes, there must be a heat-resistant flooring made of metal sheet or ceramic tiles on the floor in front of the fire door.

Basic design of a brick kiln

To know how each of the furnace elements works and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:

The fuel chamber is designed for loading and burning fuel. It is separated from the ash chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirected into the chimney pipe.
The ash chamber provides a controlled air supply to the firebox and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, and therefore requires periodic cleaning.
An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
Cleaning chambers are necessary because soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. They are used to periodically clean the oven to maintain normal draft.

The flue ducts running inside the stove can have different configurations depending on different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which release heat into the room.
The channels direct smoke and combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the stove and then exiting to the outside of the building.

One of the most important conditions The effective operation of the furnace is good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the order scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the required height of the chimney pipe and its correct location on the roof.

You might be interested in learning why

Materials for building a stove

An important issue for the long-term functioning of the stove is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not skimp on them. To build a building you will need:

Red fire brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out extremely carefully.
Fireclay brick is used to lay the combustion chamber in direct contact with the fire. It will require from 40 to 200 pieces, but exact amount can be found in the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick can withstand temperatures of 1450–1500°; it retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the walls of the furnace.
Raising the stove cannot be done without brick laying mortar, which is made on the basis of clay. Stove makers advise using the Borovichevsky mortar composition - it is quite plastic during the laying process and fireproof during operation.
Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, ash pan and cleaning chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.

Steel wire for securing cast iron elements in masonry.
Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.

You might be interested in learning how to make a cast iron stove out of it

Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a stove, you can consider several models that should be available for laying even for beginners.

Heating stove V. Bykov

This stove is intended for heating purposes only as it does not have a stove or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is capable of heating even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, with its height without pipe being 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple to install, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, which is why the designer himself called it a “thick warm wall.” The heat transfer from the entire building is 2400 kcal/h, but the side walls account for 920 kcal/h, and the front and rear parts only 280 kcal/h. The cross-section of the smoke exhaust duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, with its front part opening into a third, for example, a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The entire design of this model is divided into two sections - the upper gas exhaust and the lower combustion chamber. There are two channels in the lower part - ascending and descending. They help heat the combustion part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the entire structure, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are ⅔ covered by horizontally laid bricks. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The duct walls not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the oven. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the release of warm air into the pipe.

For this stove model you will need the following materials:

Red fire brick - 407 pcs.
White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
Grate 250×252 mm - 1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 1 pc.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc., can be laid instead of the sheet ceramic tile.

Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick kilns

Firebox for brick kilns

Order of the Bykov furnace

The furnace is laid on a foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation should be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before starting masonry, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing - roofing felt.

Order	Description of work
	This diagram shows two zero rows, which are located below the finished floor level. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry located on the same level as the finished floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is covered with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1st row - the blower chamber is formed. Hewn bricks are installed at the entrance to it, which facilitates the removal of combustion waste. To lay this row you need 21 bricks.
	Row 2 - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. To lay this row you will need 20 bricks.
	Row 3 - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the door lugs is embedded in the masonry seams. For a row you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are laid near the installed door.
	4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks along with installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the rotary well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks.
	Row 5 - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the ash chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which combustion waste will slide into the ash-blower chamber through a grate installed on the same row. There must be a gap of 5 mm between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. You will need 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	Row 6 - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the smoke exhaust well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	Row 7 - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. This row uses 11 whole, 2 ½ and 4 cut obliquely across the entire width of fireclay bricks.
	The 8th row is laid according to the pattern, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. It will take 15 bricks per row.
	Row 9 - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the stove is placed according to the diagram.
	Row 10 - bricks are laid according to the pattern, observing their direction. This row requires 16 bricks.
	Row 11 - the brick on the back wall of the firebox and at the entrance to the descending channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	Row 12 - the descending smoke exhaust duct and the fuel chamber are being combined. For a row you need 13 whole and 2 ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid according to the presented diagram, and it uses 10 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row is also laid according to the scheme; you will need 10 whole and 6 ¾ bricks.
	Row 15 - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	Row 16 - bricks completely block the combined downward channel and the fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air upper part and the lower fuel part. For a row, 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	The 17th row is laid out from red brick. A hole in the ascending channel is left in it, and bricks cut diagonally are mounted along its edges. 14 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	Row 18 - a horizontal furnace channel is formed; it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will run vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 19 - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower combustion part of the furnace. The bricks forming this channel must be cut diagonally from below. 11 whole and 4 ¾ bricks are used.
	Row 20 - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal draft. A row uses 7 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks.
	Row 21 - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. The bricks laid at the base of the walls separating the channels are cramped from below, as in previous cases. For a row you will need 11 whole, 5 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the pattern, observing the formation of channels. For a row you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the pattern and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 24 - on this row the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall is cut diagonally from the two upper sides. A row will require 9 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	Row 25 - this is where the laying of the wall between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry you will need 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 5 ½ bricks.
	Row 26 - completion of the wall laying between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick of the wall is also trimmed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 27 - the work follows the pattern, and it requires 9 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 28 - it uses bricks made ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called the cap. For a row, 4 whole pieces are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely along the entire thickness.
	Row 29 - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. To lay it you will need 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2 - ½ bricks.
	Row 30 is also laid out solid, according to the pattern, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the pattern and 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	Row 32 - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out; it will require 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina

The Swedish type heating and cooking stove is quite popular due to its efficiency. Its design promotes rapid heating of rooms and allows you not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

Appearance of the “Swedish” Ryazankin

Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it in such a way that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swedish designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both spacious and small buildings, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has dimensions of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height excluding the pipe. In this case, it is also necessary to provide that the fireplace portal will protrude beyond the building by 130 mm. The foundation must be larger than the size of the furnace base and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Shvedka reaches 3000 kcal/hour.

To build this stove model, you will need the following materials:

Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
Oven 450×360×300 mm – 1 pc.
Two-burner cast iron stove 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
Grate 200×300 mm – 1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm – 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×920 mm – 3 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×530 mm – 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×480 mm – 2 pcs.
A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500×700 mm - 1 pc.
Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace laying

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast iron elements of the fireplace stove, and a description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire stove first dry, that is, without mortar, adhering to the diagram and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of a stove maker.

Another trick of experienced craftsmen is to pre-fit and lay each of the rows without mortar during the work process. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or trimmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be completed much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When doing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only a diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the stove. It will also help - it will allow you to imagine all the channels passing inside and the design of the fireboxes.

So, the laying is done as follows:

Order - from 1st to 6th row

The first, continuous row of the stove is laid on onlaid to ready roofing felt foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first you should mark the roofing material sheet using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the stove base, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the diagram and observing the configuration of the brick laying, the first row is assembled dry, and then the laying is done with mortar.
2nd row. It contains metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, onto which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element will be completely installed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
3rd row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are installed, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, wire is used, which is threaded into special loops-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is secured with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until final fastening, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

4 row. The work proceeds according to the scheme, but the row is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be placed perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, just like all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which is wrapped or lined with asbestos to prevent premature burnout.

6th row. On this row, a combustion door is installed, wrapped in asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

7th row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme; a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
Rows 8 and 9 are laid out according to the diagram presented.
10 row. The front wall of the stove is strengthened, since a cast iron hob will be installed later in this part of the building. A steel corner is secured to the wall using two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid in place of the slab installation, and the slab itself is installed. The door of another cleaning chamber is fixed in the same row.
Rows 11 and 12 are laid out according to the pattern without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row, the cleaning chamber door is closed.

Order - from 13 to 24 row

From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed pattern, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
16th row. The construction of the walls of the chamber located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips, is completed. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks in the next row.
Rows 17 and 18 are laid according to the pattern.
19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are installed, which are secured in the same way as the previous ones.
Rows 20 and 21 are placed according to the pattern.
22 row. Two more cleaning chamber doors are being installed.
23 row. The masonry proceeds according to the scheme.
24 row. The chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.

25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the pattern.
31 row. At this stage, the third and final chimney valve is installed.
32-33 rows. In this area of the structure there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When passing the pipe through attic floor, it is necessary to isolate flammable materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box with sides with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling by 100 ÷ 120 mm is installed around the chimney. This “difference” remains in the attic.

If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The Swedish stove can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project shown on video.

Video: brick “Swedish” with a bed

And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before you decide to self-construction ovens, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice the usual laying of bricks with mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance. you can find out by following the link.

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Author of the publication 27.08.2015

Every year more and more modern solid fuel boilers appear on the heating equipment market, while their efficiency is constantly growing, in some cases exceeding 90%. Despite this, brick stoves for the home, whose efficiency rarely reaches 70%, firmly occupy their position in the market and are not going to be put into service.

There is a simple explanation for this: a brick oven maintains an optimal ratio of temperature and air humidity in the premises. In order to be convinced of this, no equipment is required; it is enough to spend some time in such a house and the difference between ordinary water heating and stove heating will become noticeable at the level of sensations.

Types of stone stoves

Nowadays, stone stoves are laid out of brick using several basic schemes, if necessary, making various changes that do not affect the operation of the heat source. The schemes by which furnace designs are made are divided into the following types:

with flues channel type;
with a chamber for heating air and channel chimneys;
bell type.

The figure below shows the structure of a brick kiln of all three types.

Dutch, Swedish and bell-type ovens

On the left side is a simple channel diagram; it is used to build furnaces that do not require much space and high-quality building materials. A mason does not need high qualifications to perform the work; a person must be able to lay simple brick walls with a bandage and that's enough. The so-called Dutch oven, which is the basis of this scheme, in addition to the listed advantages, can be modified structurally and, if necessary, add a hob. This means that it can be adjusted to any finished building. However, there are also disadvantages:

Of all similar heat sources, the Dutch one has the lowest efficiency - up to 40%.
Dutch brick stoves They operate in a slow burning mode, so they cannot be heated with light fuels and small wood.
After extinguishing, be sure to close the valve, otherwise, due to the channel design, the stone stove will quickly dry out.
A coil for heating water for domestic hot water cannot be built into the chimney tract; by blocking the cross-section of the chimney, it will disrupt the operation of the circuit and cause a decrease in the already low efficiency.

Duct brick heating stoves various configurations are presented in the following photo.

Design options

The Swedish stove, which is shown in the middle of the first diagram, has a more advanced design than the Dutch one and allows for an efficiency of up to 60%. An efficient combustion method and intensive heat exchange occur thanks to the built-in oven, which serves not so much as an oven for baking, but rather as a room air heater. In this stove for a brick home, combustion products bend around before entering the system of vertical channels. metal cabinet oven, instantly heating it in the first minutes after kindling.

The mentioned vertical flue ducts occupy the space from the floor itself to the top of the stove, intensively removing thermal energy at flue gases. The Swedish heating stove has many advantages:

The design allows you to install a heat exchanger coil on the side of the oven, which heats water for household needs in the house. At the same time, you can additionally install it in the drying niche storage tank for heated water, which will maintain its temperature.
Afterburning of combustion products occurs at the beginning of the flue that goes around the oven, and they enter the vertical shafts at a temperature not exceeding 800 ºС. Thanks to this, channels and a brick chimney can be made using cement-sand mortar from simple red brick.
It is possible, without reducing the efficiency of heat exchange in the stove, to direct part of the flue gases to warm up the stove bench; for this, horizontal flue ducts are installed under it.
There is a hob for cooking, while the design of brick ovens provides 2 operating modes (winter / summer). The transition is carried out using valves, which in summer direct combustion products along the shortest path into the chimney.
You can burn any type of solid fuel, including straw and reeds.

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted the strict requirements for the quality of the materials used and building mixtures based on clay. In addition, such construction is beyond the power of a beginner; the laying of heating stoves of this type is carried out by specialists - stove makers. You can see in the photo what different “Swedish women” look like in appearance.

The first figure also shows the operating principle of a bell-type furnace. Despite the apparent simplicity of the product, the construction of furnaces of this kind is a very complex process. The upper vault of the building experiences heavy loads, so only an experienced specialist can perform it. In addition, in this type of heat source it is practically impossible to install a water heating circuit for domestic hot water. Despite the high efficiency that a bell-type stove for a brick house can achieve, they are extremely rare due to the stated reasons.

Operation of furnaces in winter and summer

The organization of operation of heating and cooking stoves in two modes (winter / summer) deserves special attention. Switching modes is available in all duct-type stoves, as well as in Swedish stoves. How to implement this in practice is shown in the diagram.

How should a stove work in winter and summer?

There are 2 ways to organize dual-mode operation:

traditional, with one chimney and two dampers;
with two chimneys and one damper.

In the first option, in winter, the valve blocks the direct flow of combustion products, forcing them to move through all channels and give off heat to heat a private house. In summer, the channels are closed with a second valve, and the direct path to the exit is open. While saving labor costs and building materials this scheme differs in danger from intoxication. The effect can occur if both dampers are accidentally closed. Well, it is worth noting that in summer mode the top and sides of the building still heat up, releasing excess heat into the rooms in the middle of the summer heat.

The second option, which has no drawbacks, is the design of brick stoves according to the two-chimney scheme on the right. Whatever position the damper is in, the path for combustion products is always open and draft is present in the pipes. In summer, gases will follow the path of least resistance, and not into the channel system; in winter, with the valve closed, this path will be closed for them and combustion products will go into the second pipe. That is why such products are absolutely safe, although they require somewhat higher construction costs.

Note. Swedish brick stoves made according to the second scheme can be smoothly adjusted using a valve, reducing or increasing the burning intensity.

The second disadvantage of this method is the installation of additional cleaning on each chimney.

Russian stove

This brick stove is a real achievement of structural mechanics and heating engineering, since the efficiency of burning solid fuel in it reaches 70-75%. The design of the heat source has remained unchanged for centuries and is at the same time the most complex to implement. The operating diagram of the canonical Russian stove is given below.

Structural diagram

Russian brick heating stoves for a home during construction are reminiscent of the construction of a building, since their corners must be laid out according to the same rules using a plumb line, level and other tools. The diagram below shows the sequential laying of furnaces at key points, but the detailed ordering is quite complex and requires separate study.

Layout diagram of a Russian stove

The main advantages of heating systems, in addition to high efficiency are a large heat capacity, the presence of a full-fledged bed (bed) and the ability to prepare original Russian dishes that cannot be prepared in any other way. The requirements for the quality of building materials here are not as high as in the construction of “Swedish” houses, but the qualifications of the stove maker must be appropriate.

As for the shortcomings, the main one is material consumption. Small stoves require twice as much materials as an average Dutch stove, not to mention the fact that a serious foundation is required. Accordingly, the complexity of execution construction work will entail significant costs.

For each home you can choose suitable option stove heating taking into account all factors. The listed types of stoves find their application in both small country houses, and in country cottages, built of wood or stone.

About ten years ago, fireplaces began to be sold en masse - these are beautiful fireboxes different sizes, made with a variety of decorative finishes. Thanks to the variety of types of portals, such fireplaces began to be installed in almost all private homes. Their beauty and high security(the firebox is closed under glass) attracted many. For several years, they successfully replaced ancient Russian stoves. Till today…

A little history and facts

The stove is part of Russian folklore! There is no exact information when the prototypes of these structures first appeared. However, at first they had a completely different appearance, little reminiscent of the Russians we are used to. And only recently people began to build them in design and appearance similar to their analogues. Today, such structures are part of houses in Russian villages, where there is only stove heating and there is no talk of any gas. People use them to heat their houses, cook, heat food and bake with them.

What does a traditional Russian stove with a deck consist of?

The Russian stove is quite massive, its weight reaches several hundred kilograms, so it needs a foundation. In the old days, its role was played by old stones and logs, which were laid out in the base. Today these are reinforced concrete or brick masonry.

It is better to plan construction at the stage of creating a house project. If the structure already exists, the foundation still needs to be made strong!

Essential elements:

The lower part is the base (pods). It has a niche for storing fuel or kitchen utensils. With the help of this base it is raised to the desired height combustion chamber.
A vault-trough covers the top of the ovens. A layer of sand or clay is poured onto it. This technology is used to retain heat.
The bottom of the firebox (under) is made with a slight slope towards the rear wall. This is done so that the fuel burns evenly in the chamber.
The stove firebox consists of two parts: the cooking chamber and the firebox. The cooking chamber is clean without logs and ash, since the fuel is placed in the far chamber - the firebox.
There is a vault above the firebox - this is the ceiling that separates the firebox and the lower part of the deck.
The sunbed can be built along the entire length of the firebox. When the fire burns there, heat spreads to the lounger.
The chimney is installed above the first chamber where food is prepared. Along the way, a valve and a viewing window are installed. Using a damper, the intensity of fuel combustion in the stove is regulated.

Depending on the design features may have steps leading to the sun lounger. Also, small shelves are often made along the chimney in order to install decor there.

Modern Russian stoves: what are they?

May vary in size and functionality. Traditional options have dimensions: length - 2.5 meters, width - 1.5 meters. Products can be of different sizes:

small (178*124 cm);
medium (213*147 cm);
(231*160 cm).

In rare cases, furnaces can be built to non-standard sizes.

But few people were satisfied with the old ones - unattractive appearance, the ability to cook only inside the hearth, limited opportunities. Thanks to the work of craftsmen and changes in designs, Russian stoves have regained popularity. They have everything you need to heat your home, cook food and more.

So, the latest additions:

equipped with a cooking floor. Such designs are multifunctional and can replace any hobs and stoves;
with fireplace. This option is a new trend. Its peculiarity is that the rear wall of the firebox structure is led into another room through the wall. Thus, it turns out that one design combines two: a fireplace with a flame effect and all the magnificent sounds of crackling wood, as well as a classic Russian stove that heats the house, has a firebox for cooking and a stove for cooking;
with a bed. In classical versions it was very large sizes. Three people could fit on the sun lounger. An analogue has a sunbed, but only smaller. It's enough for comfortable arrangement one man. However, this disadvantage can be easily compensated for by an attached trestle bed.

According to fire safety rules, all furniture and equipment must be at a distance of 1 meter from the firebox!

Pros and cons of designs

In addition to beauty and warmth, they have some advantages:

uniform heat transfer and accumulation;
high level of efficiency;
bottom heating The classic versions were devoid of this. Only after some time, builders modified the stoves, making them more practical to use. This feature makes it possible to heat the room as a whole;
high security. Since all structures are made of brick, the walls of the furnace do not heat up to such a temperature as to cause a fire or burn;
built-in stove. Enables housewives to prepare food in their usual way;
long service life. A properly made structure can last more than 30 years.

Minuses:

you will have to stockpile solid fuel for the winter;
the firewood will have to be dried, since wet wood cannot be placed in the firebox;
When heating a house with a Russian stove, excess waste from the fuel occurs.

The Russian stove cannot be called an ideal device - it has positive sides and non-delivery. For example, in order to learn how to cook in it, housewives will have to go through a long training phase. For ignition you will need firewood, which will have to be prepared. It's certainly not electric or gas boilers, to which everyone is so accustomed. But the Russian stove also has a lot of positive aspects:

there is an opportunity to cook excellent dishes. They turn out very tasty and differ from those cooked on stoves;
depending on the design features, the Russian stove can be equipped with a sun lounger, allowing you to relax comfortably during the cold season. It can also have shelves;
and finally, the effect of the flame, the sound of crackling logs and flickering fire - no device can replace this.

Russian stoves in the interior

Despite the development of technology and the appearance on the market of fashionable cast-iron fireboxes, which are framed in various decorative portals, the Russian stove still remains popular. Of course, it has changed not only externally, but also structurally. It has become more practical, convenient and safe; in addition, when designing it they use construction technologies and materials that can increase efficiency, as well as the aesthetic component.

Advantages

Wooden houses are the basis of the architecture of ancient Rus'. And, despite the development of technology and the emergence of building materials from which buildings are erected, wood still occupies a special place. Such houses are filled with comfort, and the Russian stove only complements the extraordinary spiritual atmosphere. The installation of a Russian stove in a wooden house must be carried out in compliance with the safety requirements established by our legislation.

Brick

Made from brick - this is a classic. Previously, such structures were built from homemade clay bricks, which were fired over a fire. The products are large in size due to the presence of a hob, a compartment for baking, and a lounger for relaxing.

The brick version is a classic

Advantages:

Brick takes longer to cool than other materials. A stove built from it will give off heat longer after the fire dies out. As a result, the rooms will remain warm for a long time.
A large structure can heat even a large house with several floors. This is possible if it is installed in the middle of the house, and the chimney is led up inside the walls that separate the rooms on the second floor. Today, the chimney is no longer made of ordinary brickwork. It is made from galvanized or stainless steel pipes that run in the middle of a compartment located inside the walls. And if along the chimney you make ventilation grates in the compartments, the heat emanating from the pipe will spread throughout the rooms.
The brick does not heat up to a temperature that could create a fire. This building material is quite durable and practical. It can be used as a basis for applying decorative plaster, tiling and other finishing materials. Moreover, it is capable of serving without restoration for 30 years.
The cost of such a design is not high compared to purchasing a cast iron firebox and a marble portal. It is worth noting that most of the cost is allocated to creating a high-quality foundation.

Unfortunately, like others, brick ones are not without their drawbacks. The main thing is the fact that for a brick structure you will have to build a powerful foundation. It can be a monolithic or reinforced concrete structure. If you install a brick one without a foundation, the floor may sag under its weight.

Precautionary measures

A Russian brick stove cannot be installed in all parts of the house. The location directly depends on the structural features of the building. It is better when the idea of construction appears at the stage of designing a house. Then it is possible to correctly calculate the location, as well as make an appropriate foundation.

If the house has already been built, then you will need to dismantle the floor in the place where the hearth will be installed to the base and make a scaffold.

Other options

Among the variety of options for installing heating systems in wooden houses, it is worth highlighting two main ones:

Stoves and fireplaces– iron fireboxes with a large viewing window. They can have a hob and are not framed by anything. Minus - the walls of the structure become very hot and can cause burns or fire.

Cast iron fireboxes– beautiful fireplaces that can heat large rooms. Many manufacturers make fireboxes of different sizes that have lifting mechanisms to open the firebox; the protective glass can be oval, prismatic or straight. The fireboxes are equipped with a slide damper, a mechanism for adjusting the combustion intensity. The downside is the high cost of fireboxes and portals.

Recently, these options have become less common for installation in private homes. Despite their attractiveness, they are inferior to traditional Russian stoves in many respects.

Decorative finishing

Building materials make it possible to finish the stove in a variety of styles. In addition, they have a beneficial effect on the resistance of bricks, as well as mortars used in its laying, to various negative influences.

Truly Russian style: mud and tiles

In the old days, one material was traditionally used - mud (clay-based plaster). Then it was covered with ordinary whitewash. This finishing method is not durable, since during kindling, smoke settles on the surface, making the whitewash gray. Although it is necessary to highlight the beauty of the painting of such stoves, their attractiveness and truly Russian style. Nowadays, rarely anyone uses this method of decoration, as more and more people prefer practicality.

The most common classic version, is a decor using ceramic elements made in the form of boxes. The main advantage of this material is its attractiveness, as well as practicality. Tiles are able to retain their original appearance for a long time. The main disadvantage is the high price

Peculiarities:

the cladding is laid from bottom to top;
a special gypsum composition is used for grouting joints;
There are a variety of tile patterns available on the market. These can be either smooth tiles or embossed ones with different patterns.

Using tiles for decoration, it is possible to choose the desired color, pattern, relief so that it fits the overall style of the room. This best material for finishing stoves in Russian style.

Modern materials

The variety of materials makes it possible to decorate a Russian stove in any style. All this allows it to fit harmoniously into absolutely any interior. Among the most common it is worth highlighting:

These materials are very practical and reliable. To give them a new look, just wipe the surfaces with a damp cloth. However, they are not without drawbacks. Some, for example, like ceramic tiles or granite, cannot harmoniously fit into any style.

Plaster and paint

The plaster and paint looks very nice. This finishing method is for interiors in a minimalist style. In this case, the choice of color and texture is limited only by a flight of fancy and the general style of the room. Using paint and plaster, you can visually reduce the size of the stove or, conversely, increase it. Plaster and paint are often used to create Russian-style decor. It allows you to make various designs and patterns on its surface.

Return of traditions

It cannot be said that the Russian stove in the house is a museum exhibit that has unexpectedly returned from the past. In fact, it never disappeared; moreover, it is part of some Russian outbacks that are unfamiliar with main gas.

The massive return of the Russian wet nurse to homes spoiled by civilization is not a tribute to fashion. Most likely, what plays a role here is the desire of people to feel comfortable and cozy in the house, to fill it with pleasant aroma baking and meet your family in front of an open fire for a delicious dinner cooked in a real Russian oven. After all, not a single miracle of technology will give the sensations and emotions that people experience when they see a flame.

Russian stove, finished quality material, doesn't look like a stranger in the house. Today it has become more compact, practical and wear-resistant. A wood-burning stove, depending on its design features, is placed not only in the kitchen, but also in the living room and dining room. For the convenience of housewives, craftsmen integrate everything they need into them, right down to hoods.

A Russian stove without built-in hobs can easily take a central place in a library or bedroom. A lounger can easily replace even the most comfortable chair or even a sofa.

To choose the most suitable project for your home, you need to consider several options in detail. They differ in size, functionality, and of course cost.

Arrangement of a Russian stove in country house– this is a job only for professionals. Regardless of construction skills, the construction of such a structure requires not only skills, but also knowledge of its features and technologies.

"Alya-Rus" - a designer hit

This model has quite compact dimensions. It does not have additional equipment, such as a hob, a large sun lounger or the ability to observe the flame effect. This option will do for a small kitchen. This stove is decorated decorative elements, which are associated with Russia. It looks light and charming in a wooden house. Peculiarities:

Despite the primary simplicity of the decor, such a stove should not be overloaded with accessories. A few decorations will be enough;
it can be installed not only under the wall. Due to its compactness, it will look good in the center of the kitchen, if space allows.

This option is budget friendly. And if you want a Russian stove in your home, but your budget does not allow for luxury, you can choose this option.

Russian hut - classic style

This design is better suited for houses in rustic style. These can be buildings made of logs, wood, or have a corresponding interior. The classic style is a stove made of brick, decorated with decorative elements.

An excellent option would be to use tiles. They are able to decorate the stove and give it a truly Russian flavor. Such stoves are functional - there is a hob, a large and comfortable sunbed. You can install it in such a way that the functional part is in the kitchen, and decorative firebox- in the living room . This will give you the opportunity to enjoy the effect of an open flame and the slight crackling of firewood.

Terem - wealth and luxury

A large Russian stove, reminiscent of illustrations from old Russian fairy tales. A design made in this style is a bright accent in any room. It will look beautiful both in a classic and modern interior.

Characteristics:

Decoration with a huge number of tiles is allowed. They will only add fabulousness to the design;
the design is quite large, so it is only suitable for large rooms;
Many other decorative decorations can be used; they will not overload the structure.

This model can be equipped with a hob, a large lounger, which can be decorated with light fabrics. Often designers suggest installing it near the wall and moving the combustion part into the next room. This will make it possible to simultaneously get a multifunctional Russian stove in the kitchen and a beautiful fireplace in the living room.

Where to install a Russian stove?

Today it is difficult to surprise anyone with the presence of a fireplace or cast iron firebox. Almost all country houses are built taking into account these structures. But the Russian stove will cause not only surprise, but also admiration.

The moment the question arises about installing it in a country house, nuances immediately arise that no one had thought about before.

It is better when the issue of installing a Russian stove is decided at the stage of planning a country house, since nuances arise that are better to be resolved immediately.

In the living room

The living room is the calling card of any home and a private house not an exception. She will be in this room bright accent, which attracts the eye. Therefore, there is no need to look for too modest design options. Its size must be selected depending on the area of the room.

All pieces of furniture should be kept away from the structure.

Depending on the interior and size of the room, stoves can be of different designs with or without a hob. The following stoves can be installed in the living room:

If it is large and has enough bright design, for example, decorated with tiles, all other furniture in the living room should be in muted tones. You should not use bright decor, rich colors. Then they will not distract attention from the main element in this room. The bed can be decorated with blankets self made, beautiful and bright pillows. It is better to use dim light. They have additional shelves and a large bed. There is no hob or baking compartments - only one cooking compartment.
The Russian stove in the interior should look more modest. Can be used for finishing fake diamond, porcelain tiles, tiles. The strict design of the stove is in harmony with expensive furniture. Such designs should not have a hob or baking compartments. But the presence of a large bed is mandatory.
The main part of the stove is in the kitchen, and the combustion part is moved into the living room. The firebox part can be framed in marble if the interior of the living room matches or it can be made similar to a fireplace. In addition to it, you can install special sets for the fireplace: firewood, broom, dustpan, poker. In the immediate vicinity of it, you can put a beautiful carpet on the floor or install a soft and cozy sofa. However, we must not forget about fire safety rules. If the firebox is open, you need to install a protective mesh or glass.

Installation in the kitchen

The choice of a Russian stove for the kitchen depends on the size of the room. If it is large, you can install a large stove that will be multifunctional:

baking compartment;
multi-plate hob;
compartment for dishes;
large bed for several people.

If you are choosing a design for a wooden house, it is better to give preference to the truly Russian style. The decor can be made in several ways: using building materials (plaster and paint) or traditional mud. Such designs will look harmonious and fill the kitchen with coziness and comfort.

The kitchen is the ideal place for this product

Features and nuances:

Do not install household appliances in close proximity to the stove. This may result in a fire.
The dining area should be located at a distance. Otherwise it will be very hot to be at the table.
The kitchen should be light and spacious. Therefore, if its dimensions are insufficient, it is better to abandon the idea of construction.
The Russian stove in the kitchen should not be overloaded with unnecessary decorative elements. She herself will act as a bright accent.
If this room is spacious enough, you can use bright decor on the stove. These can be decorations in the Russian style or tiles with beautiful designs.

Conclusion

A Russian stove in a country house is an opportunity to fill it with warmth and comfort. However, before its construction, everything needs to be carefully planned, especially if the construction will be carried out in a residential building.

Pitfalls that you may encounter during construction:

This design will look harmonious only in rooms with a large area. Otherwise, there is a chance to turn the kitchen or living room into a room of aesthetic shame.
You should not flatter yourself with the hope that you can build such a structure yourself without construction skills. Here are a few examples of how one wrong step can ruin the entire creation. The chimney must be at a certain distance from the ridge, and depending on this, have a certain length. Otherwise, all the smoke and fumes will end up not in the chimney, but in your room. The foundation must be calculated to the smallest detail, otherwise you risk the integrity of your floor.
In view of this, construction should be trusted only to professionals. You can only choose the design of the stove and the availability of certain functionality.

A Russian stove in the house brings not only flavor, but also many possibilities, but only if it is built by professionals. Advantages of a Russian stove in the house:

Food cooked in the furnace cannot be compared in taste to any other. No restaurant in Russia will prepare such delicious pastries or other dishes for you.
If the stove is built correctly, it can heat not only the first floor of your house, but also the second and third. But only along the chimney pipe. However, the first floor, even in severe frost, will be warm.
A Russian stove will heat a room much faster than fireplaces, gas heating or any other.

If you are thinking about installing a stove in your home, plan everything carefully and think it over. Only the right approach to the construction of a Russian stove will give the expected result. The work should be entrusted to professionals who have experience in construction and know everything about the construction and installation features of such structures.

How to make a brick stove with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of stoves for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step by step description, useful tips.

Classification by intended use

Heating. Such stoves are used only for heating a room as a sole or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and heat the air.
Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used to warm up the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification depending on design

Straight-through.

The operating principle of such furnaces is as follows: air moves into the ash pan, goes up and, bypassing the grate, exits through the pipe.

Disadvantages of once-through furnaces:

Low efficiency, due to the fact that along with cold air, warm air also leaves the furnace, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

Due to the fact that such stoves are made of brick, which retains heat well, the room warms up evenly and retains heat.

Duct.

This type of furnace is an improved direct-flow furnace. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, warms the room. When installing channel furnaces, the linear dependence of the efficiency on the length and number of channels should be taken into account.

Bell bells.

Such stoves serve to retain heat in a room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends upward, where the cap holds it. As the air currents cool down, they become heavier and fall down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it comes out through the undercoat.

Advantages of bell furnaces:

They ensure uniform heating of the room due to their design.
Soot can be easily removed, as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification depending on material

Brick

Pros:

Autonomy. That is, having “refueled” the stove once, you don’t have to worry about it for a long time.
Heat retention. Brick structures conduct heat poorly, so it remains in them for a long time.

Minuses:

They take a long time to warm up.

Cast iron

Pros:

Easy to install and does not require a foundation.
Not fire hazardous.
Compact.
Heats up quickly.
Huge selection of stoves according to external data.
No additional lining required.
There are automatic cast iron stoves, which independently regulate the temperature.
High efficiency.
Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
Low price.

Minuses:

They cool quite quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's look at the preparation:

Foundation. If the stove is designed to be large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, this is not necessary.
Thermal insulation is mandatory for all types of stoves: both large and small.
Chimney. Under no circumstances should the chimney be adjacent to the ceiling beams. Also, the distance between it and all beams should be approximately the same.
Pipe. The projection of the pipe must be half a meter higher than the roof, but no more than one and a half meters.
Furnace location. The location should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be located above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are a few more tips:

It is better to position the stove so that it heats as much as possible more premises. For example, if the house has several adjacent rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between them, so that it heats everything.
If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not right next to it.

Tools and materials

Materials:

Clay (for making masonry mortar).
Sand.
Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
Pipe.
Gravel.
Tree.
Cement.
Ruberoid.
Grate grate.
Angle steel.
Roofing steel.
Wire.
Nails.
Steam valve.
Oven.
Doors (for the cooking chamber, ash chamber, combustion chamber).
Cast iron tiles.

Tools:

Furnace hammer.
Ruler.
Master OK.
Pick.
Square.
Plumb.
Level.

Design and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are main types of structures:

Pros:

Efficiency can reach 80 percent.
It keeps warm for a very long time, in some cases – two days.
The firebox surrounds the fire on all sides and reduces the level of fire hazard of the structure.

Minuses:

Big size.
It weighs a lot.
Long warm-up time.
After the break, daily heating is required.
Has the most complex design from all possible types of ovens.

A Russian stove is suitable as a constant source of heat, will completely replace and even surpass a stove, and can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation must be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Belongs to the channel type.

Pros:

Simple masonry
It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
Heats up quickly.
Weighs relatively little.
Allows cooking.
No need to heat regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

Cools down quickly.
Low efficiency.

It turns out that a Dutch oven is not suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and irregular use.

Regular rectangular.

Pros:

Doesn't take up much space.
Simple design.
Low prices for materials and fuel.

Minuses:

Average efficiency.
Doesn't keep warm for very long.

A regular rectangular stove is an average option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The stove is Swedish.

Belongs to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

Allows cooking.
High efficiency.
Fast heating.
“Saves” fuel.
Relatively small in size.
Exist modern options with oven, hob, a place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

Acceleration firing is required.
It has complex masonry for a beginner.

A Swedish stove is suitable as the main source of heat in a room, can completely replace a stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

Very low fire hazard.
Aesthetic.
High efficiency.
Heats the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for home decoration and for intended use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? First, let's draw up the drawings. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the furnace.

Foundation.
Frame.
Chimney.

The oven consists of the following levels:

Foundation
Rubble masonry.
Bookmark depth.
Waterproofing.
Furnace array.

Array composition:

Six.
Undercoat.
Sub-bake.
Dushnik.
Overlap.
Valve.
Half door.

Pipe composition:

Overlap.
Cutting.
Insulation.
Otter.
Header.
Metal cap.
Pipe riser.
A metal sheet.
Pipe neck.

Orders - a detailed diagram of the laying of a brick stove.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's look at how to do this using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number..

Designed for waterproofing foundations. Lay beveled bricks and ¾. During laying use cement-sand mortar.
The second row represents the bases for the walls of the care area.
The third row is the walls of the guardhouse (3/4 brick).
The fourth row is the support support.
The fifth row is located in the corners to create support for the arch. Also use this row to lay out the baked goods.
The sixth row is laid out according to a wooden template, which will be a temporary arch for the guardianship.
The row for the vault begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The center brick is driven in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be placed as close to each other as possible, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
The walls of the mantle consist of bricks from this row.
The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
The final row for guardianship. Fill the gaps between the bricks with sand for insulation.
Strengthening the roof of the guardhouse with the addition of beveled bricks.
The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shetsk masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to sand it.
The bricks of this row will become the hearth and cooking chamber. Additional installation of the mouth arc.
Walls of the hearth and furnace.
Walls of the hearth and furnace.
Walls of the hearth and furnace.
Fold down the supports for the roof of the cooking chamber.
It is made of refractory bricks with a vault.
Pole walls.
Pole walls. Fill the gaps with sand.
Laying the furnace, the beginning of the samovar.
End of the ceiling. Installation of a choke.
Samovar canals and over-pipe.
Same channels.
Additional channel for views.
Same channels.
Half door installation.
Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
Connection of pipe and vent.
Installation of the valve.
Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a stove with your own hands: description of the process.

Lay the foundation of.
Place the first row (along the cord).
Place the next rows using a level.
Control corners using body kits.
From rows 1 to 11 use cement-sand mortar, then clay-sand mortar.
The pipe is removed at the end of all work.

How to build a stove with your own hands from brick video:

Follow the instructions carefully during installation.
Choose a drawing that suits your needs.
Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is a traditional Russian one).
Be careful when transporting fire bricks as they are very fragile.
The side walls of the oven are the warmest, so place them closer to the areas that need to be thoroughly heated.
Don't forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

Laying any of the stoves discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!