Installation instructions for wet facade. Wet facade insulation technology: we do insulation step by step using wet facade technology

Brick is a classic material for building houses. It has high thermal conductivity and does not protect well from the cold. Over time, artificial stone and connecting material accumulate moisture and begin to deteriorate. Moisture and fungus appear inside the building. You can warm an apartment by spending a large amount of energy. To maintain the integrity of the walls and comfort inside the house, wet facade insulation is done. The walls are covered with moisture and frost-resistant material and plastered. Then decorative panels are painted or glued on.

Proper external insulation of the house will create comfort inside

To preserve heat in the house, it is necessary to insulate the wet facade in such a way that moisture will not accumulate in the wall and room. To do this, the materials are located with inside outward according to increasing thermal insulation characteristics and vapor permeability. Then the dew point will shift to the façade finishing surface. Moisture from the room and walls will come out. The arrangement of materials and installation technology of the wet facade are standard.

Load-bearing wall made of bricks, gas blocks or concrete slabs.
Insulation made of mineral wool, basalt wool, polystyrene foam, sip panels or any other is glued to the wall.
A layer of plaster with a reinforcing mesh inside, fixed vertically with an overlap.
Size quartz primer or acrylic putty.
Decorative coating with acrylic paint, vinyl and clinker tiles, artificial stone.

Wooden walls themselves are a good heat insulator. The foundation for them is made light. Therefore, it is better to insulate such a building with a ventilated structure with light-weight insulation. Facade technology wooden house In addition to standard layers, it includes waterproofing along the wall and between the heat insulator and putty. This is wood processing with special compounds and fiberglass.

Installation of a wet facade begins with the foundation

The cold penetrates into rooms through the outer walls and floors. Insulation must begin from the foundation, especially if the building has a basement. The lower part of the house is cleared of dirt and excess soil is removed around the perimeter. The blind area is done after finishing the wet facade. At the same time, a water drainage system is installed.

The technology for insulating the upper part of the foundation is more complex than that of the facade; it requires additional waterproofing and durable finishing material. The basement level of the building is constantly subject to destruction by rain, snow and frost. It gets hit with various objects. The load of the walls and the entire house falls on the foundation through the base compensating layer, the lower part of which is in contact with the ground. Operating procedure:

Clean the base from dirt, peeling and crumbling areas. Treat the surface protective composition from moisture, insects and rodents.
Along the horizon line – from the top point of contact with the soil, install a U-shaped profile. Its width must correspond to the size of the insulation. It will prevent the glued slabs from slipping and warping.
Prepare places for supplying pipes and wires. If the water supply, electricity and gas supply system comes out at the basement level, then fence off such a place with special extensions and make frames from the profile.

Installation of the facade is done according to the usual scheme. Basalt wool can be used as insulation. A layer is applied on top of the plaster. waterproofing mixture Ceresite. It protects the basement of the building from moisture.

Decorative finishing on the basement wet facade creates the basis of the image of the house and is made of solid materials. Clinker tiles, porcelain stoneware panels, polymer sand slabs, artificial or natural stone are glued on top of the primer. A profile for the façade insulation is installed on top along the entire perimeter, and flashings are attached to it.

Attention! Some materials indicate that they can be used in cold weather. Try to complete all work on installing a wet facade in dry, warm weather. Moisture and cold from the wall after installing waterproofing and insulation can go inside the room. Walls and all materials must be dry.

Insulation of a wet facade with mineral wool: thin layer, short term

The main materials for insulating a building using the wet facade method are mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Both materials have a low specific gravity and can be mounted on any foundation without reinforcement. Compare the thermal insulation qualities, weight and service life of insulation and wall materials according to the table. The data is given taking into account the same degree of protection of the building and the basement level from the cold.

Material	Thermal conductivity coefficient VT/mK	Density, kg/m	Layer thickness, mm	Service life, years
lightweight polyurethane foam	0,019	35	50	more than 25
hard polyurethane foam	0,035	160	50	more than 25
light mineral wool	0,052	15	90	5
dense mineral wool	0,058	150	90	5
expanded polystyrene	0,041	15-35	80	15
foam concrete	0,16	400	760	10
sand-lime brick	0,45	1000	1720	more than 50

Wet facade. Installing corners on windows

Mineral wool is superior to other insulation materials in terms of cost and noise absorption. It can be glued to figured facades, ground floor with bay windows and projections to strengthen the foundation. Specifications The system has a wet façade and has the shortest service life. The glue consumption is high, since the technology involves strengthening the surface by spreading a layer of glue and after drying, apply the glue again and press it against the wall. The profile needs to be narrower than the thickness of the cotton wool slab for a tight fit and fixation.

Do-it-yourself insulation technology for plaster

Does not require a wet façade special training and professional tools. Sandwich insulation is carried out in stages with breaks for drying. The layer-by-layer installation system allows you to do this in separate sections. The profile is attached immediately along the entire facade of the building. The wet material quickly hardens and fixes the elements. Insulation of private houses is done independently. The technology and operating procedure are simple:

Prepare the surface of the walls and the basement of the foundation. Clean from dirt, efflorescence, peeling, stains oil paint. Align and check with a plumb line vertically. The technology of gluing with cement mixtures allows you to avoid priming the surface.
Secure the basement profile along the horizon line along the entire perimeter of the building and along the bottom of the wall, around the openings.
Apply glue to the surface of the insulation and press it against the wall. The bottom row is set in profile. For mineral wool, the technology involves the preliminary application of glue to strengthen the surface and, after drying, the composition is reapplied. It is advisable to mount the starting profile on the bottom of each row. This fastening prevents the material from slipping.
The glue dries for three days. One day is enough for adhesion and you can hammer in umbrella dowels. System for placing slabs at the corners and additionally at the rate of 6 fasteners per meter.
Ceresite putty is used to seal the joints and dowel heads. After 72 hours, a layer of plaster about 2 cm is applied. A fiberglass mesh is embedded in it in vertical strips with an overlap of up to 100 mm. According to the technology, it must be resistant to alkalis. A corner profile is installed at the corners. The plaster is leveled.
After drying, the entire surface of the building is covered with ceresite putty. A basement flashing is installed along the top line of the foundation.

Decorative coating on top of plaster protects and creates the image of the house

When choosing plaster and adhesive compositions, you must first decide on further finishing materials

The basement level is subject to additional mechanical damage. The wet facade in the lower part must be finished with solid durable materials. Most often I use clinker tiles for low foundations. A tall building looks good with artificial and natural stone, terracotta panels, porcelain stoneware slabs and basalt chips. The installation technology is the same, only the adhesive composition and profile are different. I select ready-made mixtures suitable for the finishing material.

You can insulate the walls of your home both from the inside and outside. But a prudent owner will always give preference to systems with external insulation. Code of Practice SP 23-101-2004 “Thermal Protection Design” states: “It is not recommended to use thermal insulation on the inside.” In addition, at least three more arguments can be cited in favor of such a decision:

The “wet facade” method involves the following stages of work:

Preparatory process.
Insulation of walls with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from the outside of the building.
Applying a layer of adhesive mixture to the surface of the insulation, followed by laying a reinforcing, alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh on it.
Plastering the surface.
The final layer of finishing material.

Externally, the “wet facade” in the photo looks like this:

Insulation of the facade using the “wet facade” technology

You will learn about the technology for installing this insulation method a little later, but in this section I would like to note its advantages and disadvantages.

The effective “wet facade” method has established itself as one of the cheapest, included in the “TOP-3 Inexpensive facades”, you can read about this in the article, therefore it is used everywhere. But in order for the listed advantages to only please you, you must follow the technology, choose quality material and comply with the necessary conditions when performing work.

Types of facades and their scope of application

“Wet facade” is a plaster finish that is used for insulation of administrative buildings, residential buildings, office, commercial and industrial buildings. This type of facade is suitable for both low-rise and high-rise construction.

The external walls of a building can be insulated in two ways. One of them is called "dry facade" and the other - "wet façade" When installing the first type of cladding, there is no need to use various solutions and compositions with liquid consistencies. This type of facade finishing includes all types of ventilated facades, which you can learn about in the article “”. Due to the available space, the insulation is ventilated, the material is not moistened.

As for the second method, “wet facade”, or wet plaster of the facade, has nothing to do with moisturizing. The name implies that the heat insulator will be mounted on the wall, and then the surface special solutions will be plastered.

In the process of work, plaster and adhesive compositions are used, which are diluted with water, which is why the method is called “wet facade”.

Classification facade systems, having external thin plaster layers of GOST R 53786-2010 “Heat-insulating composite façade systems with external plaster layers. Terms and definitions", presented in the table:

Wet façade technology

All technological phases are carried out at a temperature of no less than +5°C and no higher than +25°C according to SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings». The quality of the work performed and the service life depend on the accuracy of the conditions met.

Violating temperature regime and using materials not intended for the “wet facade” system, you risk getting a cracked coating or crumbling plaster.

Don’t forget about your safety, because the work will be carried out at heights. Most likely you will use scaffolding, according to SNiP 12-03-2001 “Safety in construction” Part 1 their installation is carried out in tiers, and the height of each tier must be at least 2 m. The step, depending on the height, can be a multiple of 0.5; 1 and 2 m. From the outer plane, the walls of the forest are set at a distance of 300–400 mm.

Preparatory work

It is necessary to begin work by inspecting the surface and visually determining its strength and load-bearing capacity. If there are sagging mortar on the wall, remove the excess with a hammer or other available tool, and seal the cracks with mortar.

According to standards SNiPa 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings” the base must be strong, rough, clean and open-pore. Differences of more than 10 mm must be eliminated.

Let's say there is a small section of 200 x 200 mm on the wall, concave a couple of centimeters, and if you cover it with insulation, then a void will form in this place. An accidental blow to the finished facade in this place will break the insulation. Laying the slab on protruding areas is also fraught with internal defects in the material.

If, while running your palm over the surface, you see a “chalk mark” on your hand or something like fine sand is falling from the wall, clean the wall more thoroughly. Sometimes you have to completely plaster the base.

We will clean the treated surface from dirt and prime it with a special compound called “Primer”; this intermediate layer will improve the physical and technical characteristics of the base. We do this using a roller or a wide paint brush.

Foam primer should only be used on foam boards and not on mineral wool boards.

If the surface absorbs the composition strongly, then apply the primer 2 times. This operation will increase the adhesion of the base and reduce the removal of water from the adhesive mixture.

Installation of insulation

Using the “wet plaster” method, you need to understand that most of the load will fall on the insulation layer. We offer a drawing that clearly shows the design of this technology using decorative plaster as a finishing layer.

"wet facade"

Therefore, the selection and installation of insulating material to the wall surface is a crucial moment when installing a “wet facade”.

The choice of material used in the work depends on the following indicators:

The technology for constructing a “wet facade” allows the use of a synthetic polymer group of insulation materials, mineral thermal insulation materials and their combination. Materials must comply GOST: 10140-2003. "Thermal insulation boards made of mineral wool on a bitumen binder. Technical specifications", 16136-2003 "Perlite-bitumen thermal insulation slabs. Technical specifications", 22950-95 "Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity with a synthetic binder. Technical conditions".

The thickness of the heat insulator is selected depending on the existing heating engineering standards for buildings and structures, which are prescribed in SNiPe 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”. It says here that to insulate facades for residential premises, you should use polystyrene foam with a thickness of 10–250 mm or a mineral wool board with a thickness of 25–180 mm.

Using extruded polystyrene foam, which has a smooth surface, you should make it rough. To do this, you can buy a factory-made plane for aerated concrete, as in the photo, or make a homemade plane from a metal profile pierced with nails.

For work, purchase the tools necessary to complete the construction process:

building level;
hammer;
hammer drill with attachments for dowels (most often D8);
electric drill;
profile cutter;
spatula: 80–100 mm and 350 mm;
container for diluting the adhesive composition;
construction mixer;
toothed trowel, tooth size 8–10 mm, made of stainless steel;
smooth edge iron;
grater with sandpaper or mesh;
long wooden grater;
wide brush, roller for priming the surface;
construction knife for cutting mesh;
polyurethane grater 300–400 mm to form the structure.

The approximate consumption of materials is indicated in the table:

Fastening the insulation begins from the base of the building to its roof, within one vertical grip, and is carried out in the following chronology:

Fastening the base profile The bottom of the insulating layer is protected from mechanical damage using a base profile, which is installed 400–600 mm above the base using a level. It also holds the bottom (first) row of the insulator, and a profiled drip drains raindrops. The dimensions of the plinth profiles are suitable for various thicknesses of thermal insulation material; they correspond GOST 22233-2001 “Profiles pressed from aluminum alloys for translucent enclosing structures. Technical specifications" and the slab must fit into them exactly - without gaps. We drill holes in the wall for dowels, at least 3 pieces per 1 m of profile. We lean the profile against the wall, insert plastic dowels into the holes and use a hammer to drive it into the wall. Sometimes polyethylene washers are used for lining between the profile and the wall.
The location of the base profile in its installed form should be along one line; there should be no overlaps or deformation of the part at the joints.

When the profile continues along the adjacent base, we cut it at an angle of 45°. In houses with basements and technical undergrounds, polystyrene foam slabs must overlap the end of the slab by no less than 200 mm from the bottom level of the first floor and basement.
Coating adhesive solution insulation surfaces You can find out which polystyrene foam is best for your job in the article “”, and to install it we use an adhesive solution on cement based, but only for external work. The adhesive solution is prepared manually using a construction electric mixer. How to do this is written on the packaging. Fill the container with water in the amount of 5–5.5 liters per 25 kg of mixture and slowly pour the dry solution from the bag, thoroughly stirring the contents at low speed. The result should be a homogeneous mass, leave it for 10 minutes, and then stir again. The adhesive composition must be mixed until a homogeneous mass without lumps and remember that it retains its properties only for 4 hours.
We apply the adhesive mass to the slabs in strips 30–40 mm wide at a distance of about 30 mm from the edge, so during installation it will not be squeezed out beyond the edges of the material. In the central part of the slab we apply about 6–8 slides, 30–40 mm thick. We select the amount of solution so that most of the insulation surface has contact with the base through it. The glue strip along the contour should have gaps; we do them using a spatula, this way the formation of air pockets is eliminated.
Gluing the insulation to the base After applying the glue, we immediately apply the slab to the wall, the long side of which lies horizontally, fixing it with fist blows through a long wooden trowel, or with a mallet. At the same time, we control the vertical and horizontal position of the slab with a level. The glue squeezed out beyond the insulation contour is immediately removed.
Do not press the heat insulator again or move it even after a few minutes. If it is not glued correctly, carefully tear it off, remove the mortar, and only then re-apply the mixture to the slab and press it to the surface.

We lay the slabs in a horizontal pattern, from bottom to top, maintaining a checkerboard arrangement of the order of the seams, and “overlapping” at the corners. At the corners we use “gear” gearing.

First, a slab with a corresponding protrusion is laid on one wall, and then another is applied to it. The strip that remains is cut off.

Vertical and horizontal seams should not be more than 2 mm. If it turns out that they are much larger, you cannot completely fill them with solution. You need to insert a narrow strip of insulation into the gap and press it into the seam, no longer using adhesive composition. When the gap is small and it is impossible to insert heat-insulating material into it, experts recommend widening it and inserting the insulation with force, but not using an adhesive solution, but using polyurethane foam.

To apply glue to the insulation, it is better to use a notched trowel; this method guarantees the cleanliness of the joint and ensures uniform adhesion of the insulation to the glued surface with the ability to level the sheet along the plane.

When insulating slopes from the outside, we use insulation with a thickness of at least 30 mm. We cut the polystyrene foam board to a width of 5 mm less than the width of the slope, or before gluing it, we cut a wedge (8–10 mm) from the insulation and fill the gap between the insulator and the frame with silicone mastic.

When insulating slopes, the slabs should protrude 10 mm beyond the slope, making it very convenient to join the main façade insulation.

The slabs are installed at the corners with bandaged seams. You should also pay attention to the connection of the heat insulator to the under-roof lining, because this place especially requires protection from mechanical stress and moisture from getting under the slabs. For this edge thermal insulation material strengthened with another layer of reinforcing mesh, as for windows and doorways, the insulating layer on top is protected with a cornice strip.
Leveling the surface of the insulation All unevenness of the glued insulation must be sanded off with a grater and sandpaper. This is done only after the glue has hardened, 2 days after gluing the slabs. The grater should be made in circular motions with slight pressure.
Fastening the insulation to the wall with dowels After 2 days, when the glue has already set, we proceed to attaching the insulation to the base mechanically– special dowels with wide heads. We select an area and use a hammer drill to drill holes in it with a Ø 10 mm drill bit, 15–20 mm deep and 15–20 mm longer than the length of the dowel. Otherwise, debris falling into the hole will not allow the tip to be driven in. We calculate the length of the fungus according to the following scheme: thickness of the heat-insulating material + 10 mm (thickness of other layers) + 40–50 mm into the wall. Let’s say if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the length of the dowel will be 110 mm, i.e. 50+10+50. The length of the hole will be 130 mm: 110+20, which means the length of the drill is slightly more than 130 mm. Place the holes on the sheets: at the joints and in the center. A total of 5 fungi will be used per leaf. More can be done if necessary. Regardless of the location of the dowels on the slabs within the same plane of the area, the sheets are nailed 50–100 mm from their edge. Now we drive spacer tips into the dowels; if they are difficult to hammer in completely, we pull out the dowel, deepen the hole and hammer in the tip again.
It is worth remembering that for work you should buy a dowel with a thermal head. Otherwise, over time, they may appear on the façade. rust spots. The dowel rod itself is metal, its spacer zone is located in brickwork or concrete, therefore, the metal rod is a cold bridge and can rust over time, and the thermal head will protect the facade from such a problem.

A dowel is considered to be properly strengthened when its head is in the same plane with the heat-insulating material.

If it is necessary to lay two layers of heat insulation, then we perform the first layers in the same way as described above, and glue the second onto the first, but in such a way that the joints overlap. After grouting the surface, you can hammer in the dowels, just choose the correct length of the product so that it is enough for the thickness of the insulation and the base.

In cases where the thickness of the insulation in two layers is greater than the existing length of the fastener, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam assembly adhesive for fastening. If you use ordinary polyurethane foam, you may not be able to achieve a flat surface, because... the expansion of the foam is much greater than the expansion of the mounting adhesive for polystyrene foam.

Plastering work on insulation

Before plastering polystyrene foam or other insulation, it is necessary to perform a number of operations, which can be divided into 3 stages:

Surface reinforcement
Plastering works
Finishing

Surface reinforcement

The “wet facade” technology after installing the insulation requires the next step to reinforce the surface. This function is performed by a fiberglass mesh coated with a polymer composition to protect the material from alkali corrosion. According to GOST R 537862010 “Heat-insulating composite façade systems with external plaster layers” reinforcement occurs by “recessing” it into the base composition during its application.

Fiberglass mesh is an industrially produced material in which the threads are fastened in perpendicular directions and form cells. All products must comply GOST R 55225-2012 “Alkali-resistant façade reinforcement fiberglass mesh. Technical conditions".

Fiberglass mesh with a density of 160 to 220 g/m2 is suitable for work. The specified minimum is specified in the technical regulations of well-known system manufacturers facade insulation: Knauf in “System external thermal insulation KNAUF-TEPLAYA WALL”, thermal insulation systems Seresit WM. By purchasing material with low density, the developer reduces the reliability and strength of his façade in relation to tensile forces in the plaster layer.

The mesh will also serve as a reliable basis for the next layer of plaster. If you glue a material that does not meet the above requirements, the alkaline solution will dissolve the mesh within several years.

This material will reliably protect the facade from cracks that occur under the influence of temperature differences.

The grid should have a mark “for external, façade work”. According to GOST R 55225-2012 “Alkali-resistant façade reinforcement fiberglass mesh. Technical specifications", product markings must be on each roll. By type, depending on the purpose, facade fiberglass meshes are:

privates - R;
reinforced - U;
architectural - A.

Marking of mesh for facade (FS) includes: abbreviated designation of the product, its type, nominal weight and width, tensile strength along the warp and weft, designation of the regulatory standard.

An example is this marking: FSR-160(110)-2000/2000 GOST R, where

FS – façade mesh;
R - ordinary;
160 – mass in grams;
110 – length in cm

2000/2000 – breaking forces on the warp and weft equal to 2000 N;
GOST R – standard.

To secure the mesh, you need a layer of adhesive-plaster mixture, into which a fiberglass mesh is embedded, which serves as the basis for high-quality plaster. It must match GOST R 54359-2011 “Adhesive, base plaster, leveling, putty compositions based on cement binder for facade heat-insulating composite systems with external plaster layers”. It is better to begin this stage 72 hours after gluing the heat insulator to the wall. Remember that this must be done not in rainy weather and in air temperatures not lower than +5°C and not higher than +25°C. Do not leave thermal insulation material uncovered for more than 2 weeks. If this happens, then before performing reinforcement, check the quality of the material: clean yellowed slabs with a dusty surface with a grater or a plane. We start working with difficult areas - corners and slopes.

Corner reinforcement

For work we will need a corner made of plastic, since it is chemically inert, and cement mortar, which we use, has an alkaline environment. In addition, polymers practically do not corrode and are easy to cut.

Profile marking: UP S-10 x 15 x 2500 is deciphered as follows:

UP – corner profile;
C – mesh;
10 – width, mm;
15 – length, mm;
2500 – length, in mm.

We start working from the corner of the building. This means that before this it is necessary to put them, both internal and external, in order - install ready-made perforated plastic corners with a mesh, such are commercially available, we talked about them above. The diagram of their location is clearly visible in the figure.

Do not forget that the corners should be set professionally, and the insulation should be laid level using a “rule” and thread. We press the corners against the insulation and, using a level, align them horizontally and vertically. The glue protruding through the perforation, which was applied to the surface in advance, is smoothed out, with its help the corner is leveled and fixed.

The process itself occurs as follows: apply the solution to a corner with a spatula (200 mm) (50–70 mm on each side of the corner, with a layer thickness of 2–3 mm). We attach plastic corner on the corner of the building, press it to the surface and smooth it with a spatula along the mesh from the corner to the side, slightly downwards. It turns out to be a corner, on each side of which 50–70 mm of mesh is glued, and another 50–70 mm of mesh over the clean insulation.

If a situation arises that it is necessary to connect two corners together, then we connect them vertically, just do not forget that the joint must be covered on top with a reinforcing mesh, at least 100 millimeters.

Reinforcement of door and window openings

Using a level, we check the slopes again and, if necessary, trim them using a grater. We install connection profiles with the mesh. In the diagram you can see the finished design of the window opening.

We apply a layer of mortar to the slopes, the profile mesh is stretched, embedded into it and smoothed out. We do this around the entire perimeter of the opening. Next, we install corners and a window sill profile with fiberglass mesh on the corners of the opening. A little more solution is applied to the corners so that air cavities are not created under the profiles, and the excess solution will come out through the perforations. Do not forget to check the correct installation of the profile with a level.

It turns out that one mesh overlaps the other, they are sunk into the solution and we apply a “kerchief” - a piece of mesh - to all 4 corners of the opening at an angle of 45 0. Externally it will look like this:

Location of the gusset

Tension is created at the corners of the openings and the “kerchiefs” prevent cracks from appearing in these places. This part of the work is carried out in the same way as the previous ones: a solution is applied to the surface, a mesh is applied, and it is embedded using a spatula. Only the “kerchief” must be pressed in with force, all excess adhesive mixture must be removed so that there are no thickenings on the surface.

When the slopes are processed, strips of fiberglass mesh must be glued onto their inner corners, the width of which will be equal to the width of the slope, and the length will be 300–400 mm.

Attaching the reinforcing mesh to the insulation

We start moving from the top from the left corner of the site, then downwards with diagonal movements in the direction from the center to the sides. We trim the excess length of the mesh from below at the level of the base profile.

The glue must be applied with a spatula, at least 350 mm. Using a smaller tool, apply the mixture to the larger one, stretching it along the entire length of the tool, and apply the solution to the insulation. Ceresit has proven itself well. The layer should be 2–3 mm. The work should be done in small sections: 90 cm in width and about one meter in height. If the mesh in the roll is 1 m, then we grab 90 cm and 10 cm remains clean without any mixture for the joint.

We process only a meter in height: in sunny weather the solution dries quickly, but you need to have time to apply it, lay the mesh, add the solution and smooth the surface with a spatula.

We apply the mesh so that the width of 100 mm lies on a clean area of insulation. Using a spatula, smooth the area from the center to the edges, downwards, so that the mesh “sticks” evenly into the mixture. It is ideal when it is completely in the mixture, but its outlines are barely visible.

The mesh is sold in a roll; you need to make a strip of mesh from top to bottom, without cutting, and only join the seams vertically. Starting from the top to make a height of 1.5–2 meters, go down and finish the work.

The principle for joining seams is the same in both vertical and horizontal directions. We leave 100 mm of mesh without mortar; it simply lies on the heat-insulating material. We coat the next area with the mixture (covering a clean strip), apply a mesh with an overlap of 100 mm and level the area with a spatula. This way we will get more even and smooth seams on top.

The mesh must be well stretched, placed in the middle of the adhesive solution layer, it must extend to the surface and its pattern should not be visible.

If the mesh is not stretched and you get bubbles or folds, you will have to cut it out and glue a new mesh with an overlap of 100 mm along the edges of the cutout.

Remember that you cannot glue the mesh by laying it on insulation that has not been treated with an adhesive. With a thin reinforcing layer, cracks will appear in the plaster at the junctions of the heat-insulating material. Also, surface deformation may be due to the fact that the reinforcing mesh was laid without overlap or was unevenly recessed in the solution.

After the adhesive has dried, the surface must be primed with a layer of plaster (2–3 mm). It will chemically separate the plaster layer from the reinforced one, reduce absorption, and increase the adhesion of the finishing material. Be sure to make sure that the dowel heads are hidden and the reinforced layer adheres to its head.

Finishing

"Wet façade" in relation to exterior finishing home gives a wide choice. Traditionally this is: textured plaster, “bark beetle”, “fur coat” and coloring.

But after the surface of the reinforced layer of the facade has dried, it must be sanded. A plastic grater with an emery attachment is suitable for this. The movements should be circular, counterclockwise, with little effort. Grab an area that is not large, at arm's length, so that it is comfortable to work with. Then we perform dust removal and priming on the surface.

Materials for the finishing layer of the “wet facade”

The decorative coating should not reduce the vapor permeability and hydrophobicity of the protective layer, which means we select materials that meet such indicators as:

high vapor permeability;
resistance to water and adverse natural factors;
strength.

It will not be possible to prepare a plaster mixture for the facade yourself, since using a commonly available solution based on sand and cement is not enough. This requires special components and additives. Available for sale facade plaster on polystyrene foam, its analogues, mineral wool. More details about materials can be found in the article “Find out what types of facades are used for which houses: stone, wooden, plastered, translucent, composite.”

It is worth remembering that it is better not to combine mixtures from different manufacturers. Well-known manufacturers offer their own kits of materials, which necessarily include: adhesive and plaster solutions, primer composition, facade paint, fasteners. Each composition is selected in such a way as to ensure the best combination of strength and durability properties.

For work, only special compositions for external work are used. You can find out more about them in the article “Facades”; here we will talk about plaster mixtures for certain types of insulation.

You can plaster polystyrene foam from the outside:

mineral mixtures;
acrylic compounds;
silicone solutions;
silicate plasters.

The solution for finishing polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or penoplex must be specialized, designed specifically for working with synthetic insulation. And remember that prices from different manufacturers differ significantly, but choose high-quality material, since the strength and durability of the coating depends on this.

Thermal insulators of the Penoplex company are considered the most effective of all currently existing. Thus, at the end of 2011 (company data), the share of their products in this segment in the domestic market was 52%. And in May last year, 2015, the first domestic and fourth in the world production line with a capacity of 550,000 m 3 of thermal insulation per year was launched in Novomoskovsk.

However, the material is exposed to external factors: sun, frost, wind, shock loads. Under their influence, the heat insulator loses its properties and is destroyed. A win-win option for protection is plastering the facade using penoplex or other insulation materials:

Mineral plaster, which consists of cement and polymers. It has a low coefficient of water absorption, is resistant to fungi and mold, is easy to apply, and is effective in insulating facades.
Acrylic composition, which is elastic, has good water-repellent characteristics, and is not afraid of the influence of UV radiation. If you live in a place with a high level of humidity and don’t know how to plaster the foam on the outside, feel free to use this composition.
Silicate mixture quite effective, elastic, antistatic, vapor permeable, resistant to climatic precipitation.
Silicate plaster, which has high vapor permeability, elasticity, and is resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, microorganisms, and ultraviolet radiation. But the cost of its compositions is much higher than those described above, it is more difficult to apply and the color palette is dominated by pastel colors.

The plastered surface can be made smooth and embossed. When choosing a plaster mixture, be sure to look at what texture it is intended for.

In terms of resistance to mechanical loads, experts consider acrylic plaster to be effective, followed by silicate and mineral plaster. The service life is affected by the texture of the surface: smooth is more sensitive to external influences.

It is also worth noting that mineral wool is used to insulate the facade. This material has the following qualities:

good fire resistance;
high vapor permeability, water-repellent parameters;
environmental well-being;
long service life.

Such thermal insulation will last a long time and reliably protect the walls of your home. Modern products are treated with water-repellent compounds during the manufacturing process. Previously, the disadvantage of mineral wool was the release of formaldehyde resins from it during its production, but modern technologies have helped get rid of this disadvantage.
In 2009, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), based on confirmation from the NTP (National Toxicology Program) organization in the USA, assigned mineral wool group 3 according to the IARC classification (IARC/CIRC). This includes materials that are not classified as human carcinogens, such as tea and coffee. And in 2010, the World Health Organization recognized mineral wool as completely harmless.

The heat insulator is attached to the wall using adhesive and then, for reliability, dowels with wide caps are hammered in. Next comes the process of reinforcement, plastering on mineral wool - the same as on polystyrene foam, and painting the facade.

Facade plastering technology

Choice the required composition is an important point when insulating the external walls of a house. But the quality of the coating depends not only on the material, but also on how to plaster the insulation. This must be done correctly, following a certain sequence.

When plastering, remember that one wall must be completed at a time, otherwise traces of the joint will remain on the surface.

Insulation plaster is applied to the surface no earlier than 3–7 days after the lining plaster is completed. Requirements are met SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings”: temperature not lower than +5°C, not higher than +25°C. Not allowed strong wind, precipitation.

To apply the plaster layer you will need:

a mixer for construction work or a hammer drill with an attachment for mixing mortar;
capacity;
large and small spatulas;
grater or grater.

If you know how to plaster mineral wool, but you do not know how to plaster penoplex, then understand that there are differences in the processing of insulation at this stage does not exist. First of all, using a mixer, mix the solution in the container, it is written on the package detailed instructions. We apply the plaster mortar with a small spatula onto a large one and distribute the composition evenly vertically along the wall, pulling it out.

We collect the excess with a grater, which we hold at a slight angle and lightly press against the wall. Mix the excess plaster with the bulk in the container.

We begin grouting the next section of plaster from the junction with the previous one. The solution should not be dry at the joint.

When the layer of plaster has set a little, we rub the surface with a smooth trowel dipped in water to level out defects, and then we give the wall the desired texture using floats made of artificial material.

Facade painting

When the walls are dry, they can be painted. About what paint to choose for work and how to calculate required quantity, you can find out from the article “Paint for facades”. To work, you will need a cuvette, a paint sprayer or a roller with a telescopic handle, brushes, a round brush made of natural bristles, masking tape, and plastic film.

Any paint will make the color of the facade uniform, it will protect it from moisture and dirt. We recommend painting all plaster mixtures, except acrylic ones.

Be sure to protect the base and its top edge. If you paint with a roller or brush, then masking tape is sufficient, but if you use a spray gun for work, it is better to cover it with thick paper. Cover windows, eaves, and metal parts of the building with plastic film.

Lime paint is considered extremely beneficial for plastered surfaces, as it can be diluted with water, but it is not durable.

When using it for work, comply with the requirements GOST 12.3.035-84 SSBT “Construction. Painting works. Security requirements», Do not forget about your safety - use rubberized gloves and safety glasses. Splashes of paint on the skin are easily washed off with water, but this must be done in a timely manner.

The final coat of paint is applied to a single wall in one pass without interruption, so that joints are not visible on the surface.

Working with a paint sprayer is much faster and more convenient. You need to start from any angle, moving up and down. But be sure to use personal protective equipment: goggles, gloves and clothing.
Paint brushes are needed for painting surfaces in hard-to-reach places.
Working with a roller will not cause any particular difficulties. The area of the area that needs to be processed at a time should not exceed 1 m2. Roll out a roller in a ditch, it will be saturated with paint, and apply 3-4 stripes to the walls. After this, we roll them with a roller until the paint is evenly distributed over the surface.

Among the most common errors are the following:

Carrying out work under unfavorable climatic conditions, in which case a wet façade will cause cracks or swelling of the surface.
Poor surface preparation.
Poor quality and loose joining of thermal insulation material.
Incorrect position of the reinforcing mesh, small overlap.
Laying the mesh directly on the thermal insulation layer.
Wrong choice of material and its inconsistency.
Failure to comply with the rules for fastening insulation in a checkerboard pattern.

When insulating even a one-story house, you will still have to use scaffolding or scaffolding. If you work alone, then in order not to drag them from place to place, better job carry out in sections: in height according to the height of the paver, and in width - based on the dimensions of the scaffolding.

Having decided to insulate your home with various materials, you can combine them.

In the picture, the protruding part is lined with a “wet façade”. In this case, you should not use mineral wool, as it will sag during installation.

Soldering polystyrene will be difficult to work with, but the results with this material will be excellent.

Installation of a “wet facade” should be carried out in the spring-summer period, then there will be no need to construct a thermal circuit, which will not entail additional financial investments. If the installation technology is violated, a greenhouse effect is likely to occur, and this will have a destructive effect on the plaster layer.

Creating a wet façade is one of the simplest ways to clad the front of a building. This option is used quite often, because work can be performed without the use of complex equipment and professional skills. But the process has certain rules and nuances, taking into account which allows you to obtain a reliable and durable coating.

From the name it is clear that this method involves the use of materials that have a liquid structure. That is, the final cladding is created by applying various types of plaster.

The “wet facade” system includes many layers, so the design resembles a pie. This method has been used for quite a long time, which indicates its effectiveness. Unlike the “dry” version, which involves fixing finishing materials to a base or frame using special holding devices or screws, the wet version has a completely different technology.

The “wet facade” differs from simple facade plaster in the presence of powerful thermal insulation

The peculiarity of this method is the ability to completely level out the appearance of the dew point. This is achieved due to the fact that all elements have a common bond, and the surface is almost completely devoid of joints.

Since the structure being created relates to non-ventilated facades, all work is carried out with the obligatory thorough preparation of the base.

Pros and cons

System advantages:

Decorative. The texture and color of the outer layer depend solely on the design intent. The work is carried out with various types of plaster, which can have a variety of textures and be painted in desired shade. Excellent result can be achieved using a stencil that creates an imitation of stone or brick masonry.
Availability. All materials used in the work are affordable. Naturally, costs depend on the type of plaster and putty.
Light weight. The total mass does not pose a serious load.
Additional heat and sound insulation. The multi-level structure reliably protects against noise pollution, and also helps preserve heat and create a comfortable microclimate.
No condensation. It occurs due to the fact that a dew point appears on the internal sections of the walls. In this case, it moves into the insulating layer and excess moisture evaporates without any problems.

With external insulation, the dew point moves into the thermal insulation layer, so condensation is completely absent

Significant shortcomings cannot be ruled out:

Installation of a wet facade is carried out only under favorable weather conditions. Temperature and humidity indicators largely depend on the specific product.
If precipitation occurs during work, the process stops until the surface dries completely.
Hot sunny days after all procedures are completed also have a negative impact on quality: top layer When it dries quickly, numerous cracks appear. This reduces the level of security of the object and reduces the service life of the coating.

The correctness of the work is also important; any violations can lead to serious problems in the future.

For city residents, a “wet facade” is, in fact, the only way to insulate a home well and for a long time without losing square meters

System design

The installation of a wet facade does not include complex circuits layout and arrangement of materials. It is important to carry out technological steps accurately and consistently.

System structure:

The insulation is attached to the base using an adhesive composition. The fixing solution must have good adhesion and not affect the material. Thermal insulation products are selected to the thickness required for a particular case, taking into account the characteristics of the area. The best are considered modern views: foam plastic and penoplex. Special dowels with a large head are used as the main fastening element.
A layer of mortar is laid on top of the thermal insulation. A reinforcing mesh is attached to it and completely covered with the composition.
The lining is plaster, which is applied in the required thickness depending on the selected product.

Note! The final coating can be paint, which will protect the surface from premature destruction and give it an attractive appearance.

The popularity of the “wet facade” external insulation system is largely due to the affordable cost of basic materials and ease of installation

DIY installation

The technology for installing a wet facade assumes that the installation of insulation and all subsequent layers begins after other activities have been completed. This list includes flooring or partial replacement roofs and ceilings; protecting the foundation and preparing the base for further actions; installation of all external and internal communications. It is recommended to begin work after the building has settled. Object including interior spaces, must be well dried.

There is an opinion that under a “wet facade” the walls need to be carefully leveled; in fact, differences of up to 20 – 30 mm can be leveled out with installation glue

To achieve a better result, the process is divided into several stages:

Preparation.
Laying insulation.
Creation of a reinforcing layer.
Finishing events.

It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of all stages.

Preparation of material and base

Work begins with preparation and acquisition necessary materials and tools:

The surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. If there is an old layer, it is completely removed.
Much attention is paid to checking the coating for traces of fungus and mold. If there are damaged areas, then the problem is first eliminated.
Cracks and crevices are opened and covered with putty.
If there is a strong skew of the base, then alignment is performed.
The surface is primed.

Initial treatment of the walls with a primer is mandatory, the composition is selected depending on the type of base (wood, brick, concrete, cellular concrete), if it was not possible to find a specialized primer, then you can take a universal one

Further work begins after complete drying.

Laying insulation

Insulation is purchased with a small margin. Fixation occurs as follows:

At the selected distance from the ground (this parameter is determined further work with a base) a starting profile is installed. It is secured through special gaskets to ensure mobility of the structure during thermal expansion. As an alternative, a suitable metal profile is used.
Thermal insulation boards are laid on prepared glue. Fixation starts from the first row. The upper parts are positioned offset to avoid the vertical joints matching; to do this, one element is cut in half.
After the glue has set, holes are drilled and dowels are installed to secure the insulation.
If required, the joints are slightly foamed. Excess foam is cut off.

If the facade is smooth, then it is better to apply the adhesive to the insulation all over with a notched trowel; when facing curved walls, the composition is applied in a thick layer in fragments, as in photo No. 1

The next stage begins after 2-3 days, depending on the type of adhesive.

Creating a reinforcement layer

The reinforcing layer is created in the following order:

Basic plaster mixture or adhesive.
Application is carried out using a spatula. First, a thin layer is laid, equal in size to the first strip of fiberglass mesh.
The reinforcing fabric is pressed into the solution and covered with the composition. The joining points of the mesh are overlapped.

Construction adhesive under the fiberglass mesh can be applied to the “bare” insulation; if you decide to use starting plaster, then it is advisable to prime the insulation

The total thickness of this layer should not exceed 5–6 mm. It is necessary to wait for the surface to dry, then cover it with a primer and leave until completely dry.

Finishing work

For this stage, facade plaster is selected. It includes many types with different properties. The main requirement is vapor permeability.

After the starting reinforced layer has hardened, they begin to apply the finishing composition, which can be used as any decorative plaster for facades

The selected finishing mixture is prepared and laid in a small layer using a spatula. The solution is applied sequentially and carefully leveled according to the rule. When working with decorative plasters the mixture is used according to the recommendations specified by the manufacturer. The final stage may be priming and painting. To achieve the best decorative effect a combination of shades is possible.

Installation of the “wet facade” system is not very difficult, but it requires time and effort.

Frame house. But for exterior work, in addition to the traditional design with lathing and a ventilated gap, only one technology is used. We are talking about a “wet” facade. It received its name due to the technological features of installation.

Features of a wet facade

The final finishing of a wet façade is a “pie” made of several materials, sequentially laid on wall cladding or DSP. In general it looks like this:

a layer of adhesive composition on the base;
thermal insulation material;
glue;
reinforcing mesh;
glue;
facade plaster;
paint (if necessary).

All these building materials are easy to use, so you can handle the construction of the facade on your own.

But is it worth choosing this type of exterior finishing for a frame house? Assessing the advantages and disadvantages will help answer this question.

Advantages and disadvantages of technology

A wet facade is fundamentally different from a ventilated one. This applies not only to the structure of the wall “pie”, but also to its operational properties.

To the advantages of technology can be attributed:

Effective heat saving by minimizing the number of “cold bridges”. In a ventilated structure, they are formed by a large number of fastening elements of the sheathing.
Saving money and time.
Aesthetic appearance of the house.
Additional insulation, high-quality sound and vapor insulation of walls.
Reducing the load on the foundation.

Disadvantages of facade insulation wet method there is also. They are related to the conditions for laying materials and applying adhesives. So, permissible temperature air During operation, temperatures should not be lower than +5 °C, and humidity should not exceed 40%.

If these conditions are not met, there is a high probability that the glue and plaster will dry unevenly. This will negatively affect the quality of the final coating and its service life.

Materials for wet facade

The competent installation of a wet facade using insulation, the technology of which is quite simple, is largely based on making the right choice materials.

Polystyrene foam or mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs are used as insulation. They prevent the formation of condensation and retain heat well.

At the same time polystyrene foam loses to mineral wool in terms of environmental friendliness and flammability, but surpasses it in ease of use, price, and durability. It is also not subject to shrinkage during the use of the house.

Please note: when choosing slab insulation its thickness is important. It is calculated based on climatic conditions and the insulating characteristics of frame walls.

To reinforce the wet facade, alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh is used.

The best option for fixing foam plastic is foam adhesive in balloons. It is also called liquid foam. It sets quickly, does not allow heat to pass through, and is resistant to moisture. The only disadvantages include the high price.

An alternative is universal facade adhesive in dry form. For better adhesion, it is sealed with a primer of the same brand. But it is better to fix mineral wool with a special reinforcing glue.

Installation of a wet facade on a frame house

Installation of a wet facade of a frame house involves the sequential performance of a series of works, taking into account the characteristics of the materials used. If you don't want to invite outside experts, make sure you have several reliable assistants.

Preparatory work stage

Wet façade – good decision for a frame house being built from scratch. The wall cladding, which is the basis for laying insulation, has a smooth and clean surface. It doesn't even need to be primed. However, some preparatory work still needed.

To glue the insulation layer, the surfaces of the base and walls are clearly demarcated. This is done using a special L-shaped profile. The short side (perforated) is attached to the wall with dowels, maintaining a pitch of 300 mm. The long side serves as a support and limiter for thermal insulation boards, therefore should not be less than their thickness.

Please note: during installation the profile is aligned horizontally using a building level.

Instructions for laying insulation

With the exception of a few points, the technology for installing a wet facade using foam plastic and mineral wool is the same.

The fundamental difference lies in the application of the adhesive composition. Adhesive foam is applied to the foam along the perimeter of the slabs, 20-30 mm away from the edges, and pointwise in the middle. Reinforcing adhesive is applied to mineral wool slabs in a continuous layer using a notched trowel. Spot distribution of the composition is unacceptable due to the large weight of the insulation.

After applying the glue, the insulation board is pressed against the wall and tapped. First row placed close to the starting. Each subsequent one is fastened so that the joints between the slabs are “spaced apart”, by analogy with brickwork. In this case, the evenness of the rows is checked using a building level.

The foam sheets fit together quite tightly, but if gaps form somewhere, they can be covered with adhesive or filled with polyurethane foam.

After the glue has completely dried, additional fixation of the insulation is performed using plastic disc-shaped dowels. Their length is equal to the thickness of the insulating material plus 55-60 mm.

Laying the reinforcing layer

Before installing the reinforcing mesh, cover the dowel heads with an adhesive solution and building level check the evenness of the thermal insulation layer. After this, they begin to strengthen the corners.

Their surface is covered with a layer of glue, in which a fiberglass mesh and a metal corner profile are embedded on top of it. Then the glue is evenly distributed over the surface of the insulation. Optimal thickness layer – 3 mm. Both a construction float and a wide spatula are suitable for the job.

A reinforcing mesh is placed on the adhesive layer in the direction from bottom to top. At the junction of the canvases, an overlap of 100-120 mm is made. All cells must be completely recessed into the glue, and any irregularities must be eliminated.

For finishing On the exterior walls, another layer of adhesive is applied on top of the fiberglass mesh. Its thickness should be 2-3 mm.

Finishing of the facade

You can also do the final finishing of a wet facade with plaster yourself. To do this, the base layer and adhesive layer are allowed to dry completely. Then a layer of primer is applied to it, which improves adhesion between the final and base coats.

After priming the wall also must dry. Depending on the solution used, this may take 5-8 hours.

Facade plaster can be purchased as ready solution, and in the form of a dry mixture that needs to be mixed with water. It is applied in a layer whose thickness is about 5 mm. The manufacturer reflects the nuances of working with a specific material in the instructions for use.

Design of wall openings is one of the most difficult stages of work. And here it is important to pay attention to the following:

For the purpose fire safety along the perimeter of the openings, cuts are made of non-combustible mineral wool. They must have a width of at least 200 mm, and a thickness equal to the thickness of the main insulation.
Holes are cut out in slabs of heat-insulating material equal to the perimeter of the openings along the slopes.
It is better not to glue insulation along window and door openings, but to blow out the formed cracks with polyurethane foam.
The joints of the insulating material must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from the slope.

Taking these nuances into account is the key to fire safety in your home and efficient drainage from its outer walls.

Thus, wet facade technology - good decision for those who want to economically insulate the external walls of the house without losing their aesthetics.

Video: technology and subtleties of installation

Many home craftsmen and professional companies are increasingly using so-called wet facades to decorate their homes. What it is, you need to know before you think about whether it’s worth applying for an update external walls this technology at home. The wet facade is equipped with a heat insulator, which is extruded polystyrene foam or other material with qualities that will give the system strength and resistance to external influences.

Description

Wet facade, as its name implies, involves the use of a wet method of applying external finishing. That is why any facade, in the construction of which an adhesive composition or a wet-type mixture is used, can be called wet.

Semi-liquid adhesive compositions can also be used in the work, which are quite feasible to purchase in ready-made form. You can buy it already ready mixture or one that involves additional dissolution before starting work.

wet type

The wet facade must contain three main layers, one of which is heat-insulating, fixed to the rough surface with glue. As a rule, a polymer cement solution is used as an adhesive composition. Among its positive features one can highlight high-quality adhesion to the load-bearing surface and any type of insulation. Polystyrene foam can be used as insulation. But it is also used; for carrying out this kind of work it is necessary to purchase it in the form of rigid slabs.

A wet façade requires the presence of another layer, which is the base material. It is based on a rigid layer designed to protect thermal insulation from external mechanical influences. It is on the base layer that the fastening is made decorative covering. Traditionally it is customary to use it in tandem with reinforcing mesh. In the vast majority of cases, the solution is based on fiberglass with impregnation, which protects against alkali.

If you have chosen a wet facade, the installation technology assumes that it also contains an external decorative coating. The most popular material in this case is textured plaster. It is quite easy to apply and has a low cost. In addition, it is also valuable that it does not affect the walls and façade of the building with its weight, since its mass is insignificant.

Advantages of a wet facade

If you are interested in wet facades, what they are, you need to find out more. It is worth paying attention to the positive features of this finishing method. Among the most important, as already mentioned, is cost. So, if you do the work yourself, then square meter finishing will cost approximately 300-800 rubles, the final price will be affected by the cost of the plaster and thermal insulation used in the work. Another advantage is the fairly extensive color scheme. This also applies to invoice solutions. But if there is a need to change the color, the surface can be painted in any shade.

Installation of a wet facade requires the presence of insulating material, which allows you to obtain a practical finish with thermal insulation characteristics. If you are just starting to build a house and know that the facade will be finished using the wet method, then you can save on work, because the walls will then be insulated. And you can really save on the building materials themselves, since the thickness of the walls can be such that it is enough to ensure strength.

When considering wet facades, what they are, it is imperative to understand and take into account that such systems have little weight, despite their multi-layer nature. This indicates the possibility of thermally insulating a capital building with stone walls. Can be ennobled in this way and frame houses, which are installed on a columnar or strip base. Due to the fact that the insulation will be reinforced outside the living space, usable area buildings will remain unchanged.

Dew point offset

When you consider wet facades, what they are is important to understand. After all, if you do not take into account all the features of such a system, then you can make your choice in favor of a less profitable and not so attractive solution for your home.

It is also important to take into account that the location of the insulation outside the external walls is very advisable, because this allows you to move the dew point beyond the main walls. Whereas if thermal insulation is carried out from the inside of the room, you will have to think about combating the condensation and moisture that occurs on the outside of the sealing material. All these circumstances indicate that a wet facade, work on which will be done independently, does not imply problems associated with the formation of fungus and mold on the walls.

Disadvantages of a wet facade

It must be remembered that everything has its drawbacks, and the façade arrangement system is no exception. wet technology. Such work can only be done in the warm season. In addition, bad weather can also prevent the continuation of work, which can delay the completion of the process for some time. If this requirement is not taken into account, then dirty spots will remain on the surface of the facade. In addition, the approximate service life of a wet facade does not exceed 30 years, which is significantly less compared to other types of external wall construction.

During operation, storage duration original form walls can be shortened, this can be affected by temperature changes. Thus, if there is a large difference between their values, this fact can greatly affect the durability of the facade.

wet facade

A wet facade, the installation technology of which requires the use of several layers, may involve the use of not only adhesive mixtures. If there is a need to reduce the cost of work, then you can use less expensive analogs, however, when purchasing, it is important to take into account that the adhesive composition must have certain characteristics, among them excellent steam permeability, as well as resistance to frost and external influences. The adhesive mixture can not only strengthen the material, but also level the surface.

The “wet facade” system, as mentioned above, can be based on mineral wool or expanded polystyrene slabs. If we compare, the first option has excellent thermal insulation qualities, especially good ones. But today many people refuse fiberglass, since it is not so durable, which makes it vulnerable.

Technical characteristics of the thermal insulation layer

If you decide to choose a wet facade for arranging it, then you need to purchase one that has a tensile strength of 15 kPa or higher. If you use a material that does not have such impressive strength, then the facade will not endure wind loads.

As for density, it should vary between 130-180 kg/m3. This requirement must be taken into account so that the layers of plaster do not crumble. This material must also have alkali resistance, which is equal to 12.5 pH or higher. This requirement is due to the fact that an alkaline reaction occurs between the materials, which can damage the thermal insulation. The thickness of the slabs is also important. The difference between them should not be more than 3 mm. This is necessary to ensure that the facade is aesthetically pleasing. Water absorption of the material should not exceed 1.5% of the volume of insulation.

Characteristics of the polystyrene foam layer

If you are installing a wet façade, it is important to choose the right materials. So, if the insulation layer is based on polystyrene foam, then certain requirements are imposed on it in terms of strength, which cannot be less than 100 kPa. As for density, this figure can vary from 15 to 25 kg/m3. A flat surface is also important here; deviation is allowed no more than 0.5%.

Characteristics of the plaster layer and external coating

It is important to take into account that the plaster layer must also meet certain characteristics. Thus, the density of the layer should be in the range from 145 to 200 g/m2, while the thickness should be approximately 3-5 mm.

It is important to choose for the decorative layer the right material, which must necessarily have increased vapor permeability characteristics. But it is recommended to choose a density equivalent to 1.6 g/m3. If you comply with all these requirements when choosing a material, then the wet facade will meet all the characteristics of a high-quality system that will last for as long as necessary.

The “wet facade” finish today continues to be popular for the reason that the house looks very presentable after the work, and the costs do not break the owners’ pockets.