How to properly install a sewer system in a private home so that it lasts for many years? It is advisable to involve professionals in this matter, but if you have some skills, you can do everything yourself. Also, despite the fact that the basic requirements for the sewer system are individual, specialists must be involved in its design. Only compliance with all technological and technical standards will provide a private home with high-quality drainage.
What does the sewer system consist of?
How to make a sewer system in a private house, taking into account all the requirements regulatory documents in the construction industry? For a one-story or two-story building, it is necessary to manufacture a system that will consist of the following components:
- Ready-made or homemade septic tank (cesspool). Designed for storing and filtering wastewater. It is installed outside the home and has a rather complex layout.
- Pipes for laying external sewerage. Any home septic tank must be connected to the building, which is done using these elements. Such pipes withstand temperature changes well and are characterized by increased strength and wear resistance, which allows them not to collapse under water and soil pressure.
- Pipes and fittings for wiring internal sewerage. Consists of elements having a diameter from 40 to 110 mm. Fittings are also necessary for arranging sewerage in a house, since they are used to create bends, revisions and turns.
- Thermal insulation for pipes. Installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands is impossible without modern insulation materials. They are used to insulate pipes, which prevents them from freezing. Installation of pipe thermal insulation should be carried out not only outside the building, but also inside in unheated rooms (basement, basement of the building).
Types of septic tanks
When installing sewerage for country house, what to choose as a septic tank? There are many options for the design of this element of the system.
Cesspool without bottom
Sewage system in country house using a cesspool has its advantages:
- low cost. A cesspool is a kind of well that has no bottom. Its walls can be made of monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, brick;
- simple operating principle. After wastewater enters the cesspool, clean water seeps into the soil, and solid waste settles at the bottom;
- no difficulties during installation of the structure. There is no need to carry out extensive excavation work.
The disadvantages of this design diagram They say that it is suitable only for those houses where the average daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m. Otherwise, the surrounding soil and groundwater are polluted by household waste.
Hermetic tank
Do-it-yourself sewerage for a country house can be formed from large-volume sealed tanks made of plastic, metal or other materials. You can buy them ready-made or make them yourself. In this case, a sewerage project in a private house involves the use of prefabricated ones. The bottom of such a septic tank will be formed from monolithic concrete, and the lid will be made of metal.
The disadvantage of this design is that over time the container will fill up. After a certain amount of waste has accumulated, it is necessary to call a special machine that pumps it out. The advantage of a hermetic tank is that it can be used in the presence of a high level groundwater.
Single chamber septic tank
Installation of sewerage in a private house very often occurs using a single-chamber septic tank. It is a cesspool, the bottom of which is filled with 30 cm of crushed stone and sand of the same thickness. The advantage of this design is that water penetrating through the so-called “filtration field” is purified by approximately 50%.
Two-chamber septic tank
How to properly install sewerage to prevent contamination of the site with household waste? In this case, it is recommended to use a system of overflow settling wells.
Such a sewage system in a private house includes two tanks. One of them is hermetic, the other has no bottom, but is sprinkled with a layer of crushed stone and sand.
Waste from the house goes into the first container. After some time they settle there. All solids sink to the bottom of the septic tank, and grease rises to the top. The waste that lies in the middle is relatively clean. They are the ones who end up in a well without a bottom. This happens through a pipe that connects two containers and is placed at a slight slope at 2/3 of the height of the septic tank.
Over time, too much waste accumulates in the first well that needs to be pumped out. This should be done once every 5-6 months.
DIY septic tank
What is the easiest way to make a septic tank?
How can you make a sewer system in a private house with your own hands so that it works as efficiently as possible? First of all, you need to take care of the septic tank. To install a local sewer system in a private house, you should follow the following instructions:
- Digging a pit. The dug hole should have a size that is slightly larger than the dimensions of the tanks. It is necessary to count on the fact that a layer of crushed stone and sand needs to be poured onto the bottom of the septic tank, and on the sides - to equip clay castle. If the sewer system for a country house is intended for a small number of people (1-3), then the pit can be dug manually. Otherwise, it is recommended to use the services of an excavator.
- Arrangement of the base. When installing a sewer system in a private house, the bottom of the dug hole must be leveled, then covered with sand and compacted. The area where the first tank (sump tank) will be installed needs to be waterproofed. For this purpose, clay or a concrete disc should be used.
- Installation of containers. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house should consist of two separate tanks, which are formed from concrete rings. In order for the system to work effectively, all joints must be sealed. Such a sewerage scheme in a private house will prevent wastewater from entering the soil and groundwater.
- Arranging the bottom of containers. This scheme sewerage stipulates that the bottom of the first tank must be sealed. To do this, it is concreted, and the top is treated with bitumen mastic and a layer of roofing material is laid. Also, in order to build an effective sewer system, the bottom of the second well is covered with crushed stone or pebbles.
- Overflow design. In order for the sewage system of a country house to work correctly, the installed tanks must be connected to each other by an overflow pipe. It is installed at a distance of 1.5 m from the bottom. A T-fitting is also mounted on the pipe. It allows you to collect the liquid itself, which is separated from organic matter.
- Floor installation. To install local sewerage for a private house, reinforced concrete slabs are installed on top of each tank.
- Installation of hatches and ventilation. To prevent an unpleasant odor in the area, a ventilation pipe is installed in the ceiling of the tanks. Also, each well is closed with hatches, which must be opened if necessary.
Laying pipes on the street
Should be carried out according to the following scheme:
- Digging a trench. A small ditch is made from the septic tank to the house. Its depth should be greater than the freezing depth of the soil (the water pipeline is also laid). When constructing a trench, it is necessary to ensure a slope from the house to the storage tanks for good outflow of liquid (about 2 cm 1 m).
- Pipe laying. How to install sewerage in a private house, which pipeline to choose? It is recommended to choose one that has a diameter of at least 110 mm.
- Thermal insulation. If the pipes are laid shallow, then they can be prevented from freezing by insulation.
- The final stage. One end of the pipe is inserted through a concrete wall, carefully sealing the joints. Also, in order to install a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, you need to remember to leave a small hole in the foundation or base during its construction. A pipe is inserted through it, after inserting a metal washer.
Internal network rules
The internal network device is considered important stage in the installation of sewerage for a private house, how to do everything correctly? Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house involves the installation of the following structural elements:
- riser. This is a central pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which is installed in a vertical position. It connects all the existing contours in the house together. For a small building, one riser is usually enough;
- . Installed on the top of the riser. Such a pipe is necessary for drainage into environment accumulated gases;
- main branches. Pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used to connect plumbing fixtures to the riser. This system does not have forced circulation, so it is necessary to provide for drainage (3 cm by 1 m);
- supply pipes. Used to connect device outlets to highways;
- revisions. They are a tee, where one outlet is closed by a hatch. Inspections are necessary to carry out repairs and preventive work various kinds. They are usually installed at all turns, branches, at the base and end of the riser.
If you follow this scheme for the device sewer system, it will work efficiently and without failures.
It is increasingly rare to hear the phrase “outdoor amenities” in the private sector. This is not surprising - after all, every person strives for comfort. However, it is out of the question if on a frosty night, waking up, you have to get dressed and run through the snow to a cabin located 15 meters from your home. So home craftsmen equip latrines directly in the house. But in order for them to function normally, it is necessary to properly install a sewage disposal system into a septic tank located on the street. Today we will look at how to install a sewer system in a private house with our own hands. We will also consider the diagram of its structure, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.
Read in the article:
How to correctly draw up a diagram of a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands
When starting to draw up a sewerage diagram for a private house, you need to decide on the number of drain points. It should be understood that if there are two floors in a residential building, the circuit of each is mounted, as planned, separately, with subsequent output to a common riser leading to the septic tank.
Having only one riser is unacceptable only in the case of installing a swimming pool or sauna - a separate drain will need to be installed for them.
Important! Its performance and ease of installation will depend on the completeness and correctness of the do-it-yourself sewerage diagram for a private house. The plan must indicate the length of all pipes - this will help to correctly calculate the amount of material.
Problems you may encounter during design
The main difficulty in drawing up a project may be the introduction of a sewer pipe into the house. To do this, you will have to break through the foundation or install special pumps. Their installation will also be necessary when installing a bathroom in the basement or basement. In this case, a special installation capable of grinding organic matter will not hurt. The sewage pump together with the blade assembly is called a multi-lift.
Expert opinion
VK design engineer (water supply and sewerage) LLC "ASP North-West"
Ask a specialist“If the house is under construction, then regardless of whether a toilet is planned inside the house or not, it is worth installing a sewer pipe into the foundation. To begin with, you can simply turn it off. If you need to install sewerage, it will be very useful.”
When designing, the number of residents must be taken into account. This indicator will directly affect both the volume of the septic tank and the diameter of the sewer pipes that will be used when installing the system. Do not forget about the depth of soil freezing - the system must be in the ground below this mark.
What types of sewerage systems exist?
The main types can be called:
- Dry toilets. This format is not very common in private homes. It is more suitable for a summer residence where there is no need for a constantly functioning sewer system.
- cesspool– the easiest to install and low-cost option. Its inconvenience is that it requires periodic pumping using special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure.
- Septic tank- the most common version of the sewerage system. Waste products are processed using living bacteria and microorganisms or by adding chemicals to the container that decompose organic waste.
The construction of a septic tank cannot be called cheap, but it allows you to do without pumping for a long time. The main task is to add the necessary substances in time. As for the sewerage system itself for a private house, it will be the same for both the cesspool and the septic tank.
Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: diagram and its main components
When drawing up a project for laying a sewer system in a private house, you should mark on the diagram the location of plumbing fixtures, such as a sink or. All pipes are also taken into account (their length and diameter are indicated in the plan), connections, corners and branches. Data is entered on the location of the riser and its outlet to the septic tank.
If you describe all the parameters in detail, you can install the entire system much faster and with better quality. The plan, after installing the sewer system, must be saved. It can help in case of blockages or other emergency situations.
Drawing up a sewerage diagram for a private one-story house(like buildings with several floors), it is important to think about the installation locations for cleaning systems - special branches with plugs that will help get rid of blockages. Do not forget about calculating the slope of the highway. If the slope is weak, the drain will be ineffective, and if it is excessive, grease and dirt will settle on the walls, which will eventually lead to emergency situation. Let's try to figure out how to correctly draw up a diagram of the sewer system.
Drawing up a sewer system diagram
The first thing you need to do is draw a floor plan of all the premises of the building. It is more convenient if such a diagram is available - quite often during construction, just such diagrams are drawn up. In this case, it can be copied and sewer routes can be “laid” along it. Having indicated the installation points of plumbing fixtures, we begin measurements. Every millimeter can play a role here.
Important! When installing thinner pipes (for example, from a sink), if they are longer than necessary, there is a danger of them being bent. In this case, the water will stagnate, which will lead to a build-up of grease and dirt and clog.
If possible, it is better to place all plumbing fixtures in close proximity to the riser - this will allow sewerage to be carried out with the greatest efficiency. All tie-ins into the riser are indicated. A prerequisite is to connect the toilet flush directly to the main pipe, without additional connections. The drain of the bathtub and sink can be combined - this will save material and get rid of extra pipes and tie-ins into the main riser.
What diameter should the pipes be?
The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the number of residents and the planned intensity of use of the system. However, there are generally accepted norms. So the diameter of the main riser directly to the septic tank is usually 100-110 mm. The toilet flush has the same diameter. But thinner pipes run from the sinks and bathroom. Most often, a diameter of 50 mm is used for such purposes. This thickness will be quite sufficient.
All connections and taps must be made at an angle of 450. If the angle of the sewer pipe is even, it is this point that will periodically become clogged.
When installing a sewer system, it should be understood that the riser must go to the roof, from where air will enter. Let's consider what will happen if there is no air access and the upper part of the riser is plugged, using the example of a two-story house. Everyone knows that there is a hydraulic lock in the toilet that prevents odor from the system from entering the room. If there is no free access to air, we flush the water in the toilet on the first floor. Due to the vacuum, water is “pulled out” from the plumbing fixtures on the second floor. The hydraulic lock is open, all the smell from the sewer system rushes into the living quarters.
How can you improve sewer efficiency?
The quality of operation of an autonomous sewer system can be improved both by installing additional equipment and purely by installation parameters. To do this, you just need to correctly distribute the slope of the highways. A slope of 3 cm/m is considered the most effective. But for greater efficiency of the sewer system, you can increase this parameter to 4-5 cm/m. This will be quite enough for efficient work system and is not enough for the rapid formation of grease or dirt deposits on the inner walls of the pipes.
Modern means are very effective in combating deposits on the walls. But you shouldn’t expect a miracle from them if a serious blockage occurs. Advertising may claim that the product can easily cope with any of them, but this is not entirely true. In fact, such products are good for periodic prevention. If the pipe is already thoroughly clogged, then there is nothing better than a good old cable.
Talking about additional equipment It is impossible not to note the benefits in preventing clogs of equipment such as a household waste disposer under the sink. It prevents large scraps and other debris from entering the sewer pipe. Everything that goes down the drain after grinding has the consistency of liquid porridge, which is not capable of clogging the main line.
How to properly install a sewer system in a private house: stages of work
All work on arranging the sewer system of a private house is carried out in several stages. There is no need to perform them without interruption, which means that installation can be carried out in free time for a long time. However, according to professionals, such work rarely drags on - as soon as the arrangement begins, the home master tries to complete everything as quickly as possible. Let's look at the steps that need to be completed step by step. The algorithm of actions should be like this:
- We calculate the required volume of the septic tank;
- we install and equip the tank;
- we lay a line from the septic tank to the house;
- We carry out internal wiring of sewer pipes and connect them into a system;
- We connect plumbing equipment.
By following this procedure and simple rules for carrying out work, you can be sure that the system will work flawlessly. Let's look at each step in more detail.
How to calculate the required volume of a septic tank for a private house
The calculation can be made empirically: To do this, you need to sum up the entire water consumption of the family living in the house. However, if the sewerage system is installed during the construction of a residential building, this method is unacceptable. Then you can take the average values recommended by SanPiN. However, it is much easier to use the specially designed calculator below:
Sewage in a private house is absolutely necessary if you live there permanently, and is highly desirable if you live there only during the summer months. I will help you understand the basic layouts of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing key stages of work.
Sewage scheme
Sewage for a private home is an essential condition for comfortable living. You can use street and garbage pits only temporarily. Sooner or later the question of creating a comprehensive system is understood.
Before making a sewer system in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:
- Analysis of existing communications. If a locality has a centralized sewer network, then the work becomes much easier. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.
To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.
- Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it needs pumping less often; a cesspool is the opposite. Optimal choice- a septic tank combined with a biological treatment station, but the high cost acts as a limiting factor.
- Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations that determine minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well/borehole.
- Allocation of a room. The sewer system of a private house must connect together all water drainage points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it at outer wall, on the side of the house where the tank will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.
- Pre-planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. Based on the calculations, we plan the budget (we immediately include a 30% excess in it) and evaluate whether the project will be feasible.
If the preliminary stage is completed successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.
Materials for creating an autonomous sewer system
Independent sewerage installation in a private household is a fairly resource-intensive project. What minimum materials will be required for its implementation?
The main expense items are shown in the table:
| Illustration | Design element |
 |
Ready septic tank.
The optimal solution for an autonomous sewer system is the installation of an industrial septic tank (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so all we have to do is simply install them. Main disadvantage- high price. |
 |
Plastic container for a septic tank.
A plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for storing waste can be used as a reservoir. You can also purchase the so-called “Eurocube”. Plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- quite high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices. |
 |
Concrete rings.
If cost savings are a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for storing and treating wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. It’s probably impossible to do without using a crane. |
 |
Pipes for external sewerage.
To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature changes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laid at depth. |
 |
Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage.
Internal sewerage distribution is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Along with the pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings to design turns, bends, revisions, etc. |
 |
Pipe thermal insulation.
When laying the external part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated rooms (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is advisable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. |
In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:
- gravel and sand for earthworks and laying the drainage layer;
- cement mortar;
- sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
- inspection wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.
Exterior works
Stage 1. Operating principle and calculation of septic tank volume
Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:
- external- consist of constructing a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
- internal- involve installing pipework in the house and connecting water consumption points to it.
If possible, then these works are carried out in parallel, but if not, then you need to start with the construction of the outer part.
The most effective design for autonomous sewerage in a private home is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate waste, but ensures its recycling. The output is relatively clean water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.
The septic tank works quite simply:
- Advocacy. First, wastewater enters the first container - a settling tank. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste occurs with the release of gaseous reaction products and mineralization of residues.
- Overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow tube, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
- Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified wastewater passes through a drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage also retains some of the contaminants, so almost clean water enters the soil.
Almost all septic tanks work on this principle - both homemade and factory-made. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and filtration tank for more effective cleaning.
Before installing a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.
The volume of a septic tank is calculated using the formula:
V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, Where
- V- the required volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
- n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
- Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
- 3 - average duration of wastewater cleaning, days.
If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people the volume will be as follows:
V = 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 = 2.4 m3.
Stage 2. Installation and equipment of a sewage tank
Now let's figure out how to properly install a sewer system in a private house. The algorithm for installing a septic tank is in the table:
| Illustration | Stage of work |
 |
Digging a pit.
In the selected location, we apply markings to the area, after which we dig a pit to install the tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of bedding and waterproofing/drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For small-volume septic tanks, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator. |
 |
Preparing the base.
We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bedding up to 20 cm thick. We tamp the bedding. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing pad made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well. |
 |
Installation of containers.
We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings to prevent untreated waste from entering the ground. |
 |
Construction of tank bottoms.
We make the lower part of the sedimentation tank airtight by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bitumen mastic and lay waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic brick etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated reinforced concrete blank. |
 |
Overflow design.
We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into the holes at a distance of approximately 1.5 m from the bottom. To ensure that organic waste does not get from the sump into the filtration tank, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower pipe, such a fitting allows the selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed. |
 |
Overlap and necks.
Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, inspection and repair. |
 |
Ventilation and hatches.
We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is advisable to make it higher - so bad smell will evaporate faster. We cover the wells or separately drained necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, securing them with cement mortar. |
If the septic tank is located below the groundwater level, then it is advisable to seal it from the outside using roofing material or bitumen mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks - the so-called clay castle - will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.
Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house
The next element of the external sewerage system is the pipe connecting the tank to the house. It will carry wastewater to the treatment/storage facility.
Pipe laying technology:
| Illustration | Operation to be performed |
 |
Digging and preparing a trench.
Between the house and the septic tank we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you will have to dig). For the most efficient drainage, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sand bedding up to 15 cm on the bottom. We moisten the bedding and tamp it down. |
 |
Pipe laying.
We lay a pipe in the trench to drain the waste. The optimal pipe diameter for the outer part of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm. |
 |
Pipe thermal insulation.
If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it roll material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or we use cylindrical casings of suitable diameter. |
 |
Entering the septic tank.
We see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, carefully seal the hole. |
 |
Entering the house.
The entrance to the house can be designed in different ways, but most often the pipe is inserted through a hole in the base or foundation. It is advisable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated. |
After completing these works, we completely fill up all the trenches and pits, and then lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.
It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.
How to make a sewer line correctly
Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network
The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewerage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will give a description of its main elements:
- Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter(minimum 110 mm), which brings all the contours together. As a rule, in a private house there is one riser, but in large buildings there may be several. In the lower part, through the elbow, it is connected to the outlet sewer pipe.
- Fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. Discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to ventilation pipe located above the roof level.
Without a drain pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which may lead to incorrect operation shut-off valves. In addition, accumulating gases cause unpleasant odors.
- Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drainage to the riser. Since local sewerage is usually gravity-fed (that is, operating without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimal slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
- Supply pipes- are used to connect outlets of plumbing fixtures with mains. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be greater than the diameter of the main line.
- Audits- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet equipped with a closing hatch. The inspection is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access inside the pipeline to remove blockages or perform preventive maintenance.
Stage 5. Pipe connection
All pipes are connected to each other using fittings, which allow you to create turns, bends, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is advisable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the area where the flow rate decreases.
Typical modern pipes, equipped with bells and elastic cuffs, are easy to install with your own hands :
| Illustration | Installation operation |
 |
Pipe cutting.
Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the straight end of the pipe to the desired size. |
 |
Chamfering.
We clean the cutting area, removing burrs from the outer inside- they can cause blockages. |
 |
Preparing the bell.
We insert a rubber o-ring into the socket. We level the seal, placing it in the groove and making sure there are no bends or creases. |
 |
Pipe connection.
We insert the pipe into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, rotate the pipe so that the outlet or inspection hole is in the desired position. |
After assembly, all pipes are installed on supporting surfaces. The instructions allow for both hidden (in grooves or behind the casing) and open installation. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to secure the pipes.
Stage 6. Connection to plumbing fixtures
At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:
- Toilet- usually installed in close proximity to the riser. The toilet outlet is connected by corrugation or a piece of pipe either to the riser outlet or to a short main with a diameter of at least 110 mm.
- Bath or shower stall- connected to the sewer using compact siphons, which are placed under the drain holes. The optimal diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.
Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.
- Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon usually has the shape of a flask and is placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet by a flexible corrugated pipe.
- Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, you should install a separate sewer pipe outlet, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing collar.
Conclusion
The technology for installing a sewerage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly see the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you may have in the comments to this material.
Disposal of human waste products is an indispensable condition for organizing comfortable living in private property. Therefore, a particularly important stage in installing a drainage system is the development of a sewerage system in a private house.
Gone are the days when standard device for a private country house it was ordinary country toilet, which is a plank booth and a cesspool. We invite you to read the article.
In modern times, the sewage system in the house is its an indispensable attribute.
Types of sewerage systems for a private home
Water is necessary in your home or dacha; there is no point in arguing with this statement. But its excess is even more harmful than its deficiency. An excessively watered area is even more useless in an economic sense than a dehydrated one. Therefore, to remove excess moisture special systems are created:
- A drainage sewer system designed to collect and remove liquid from moisture-saturated soil layers.
- A storm sewer system that performs the function of collecting rain and melt water, its sewerage into special storage tanks and subsequent discharge into storm drainage or into devices for use for household needs during dry periods.
- Fecal sewerage, responsible for the collection, purification and disposal of household wastewater and human waste products. We suggest you read the article about that.
Each of these devices performs a specific function and has its own design differences in accordance with its purpose.
The nature of the wastewater in each system requires separate collection and sewerage of liquid from each type of specified device.
How to make a sewerage diagram in a house with your own hands
Such a document is a graphical action plan. A sewerage project makes it possible to correctly calculate the need for materials for installing a sewerage system for your home.
Watch video
The basis for drawing up drainage diagrams is a building project, which clearly indicates the installation locations of plumbing fixtures and their names, which allows you to select the correct materials.
Factors influencing the composition and design of sewage systems in the house
To determine the size and placement of the main elements when installing a sewer system in a private house, it is necessary to determine the level of water consumption. The calculation uses average consumption data.
As a first approximation, you can use the standard of 100 liters per person. When designing, you should adhere to the basic rule of placing the main external sewerage equipment at a distance of no closer than 4 meters from the border of the site and no closer than 10 meters from a residential building.
In this case, the distance to the nearest water intake (well or borehole) must be at least 35 meters.
If your neighbors complain about you, the inspection authorities (sanitary and epidemiological service) will demand that the distance be no less than the figure indicated above!
Below is an example project.
The purpose of drawing up a plan is to locate the main equipment of the drainage system, determine the cross-section of sewer outlets and select appropriate fittings for the installation of a gravity drainage network.
Elements of the internal sewer system
These include the following details;
- Kitchen sink siphon and drain pipe.
- The same device for the washbasin in the bathroom.
- There is also a siphon and drain pipe from the bathtub, and a drain with a siphon from the shower stall.
- Drain pipe and a bidet siphon - in the toilet. There is also a siphon and an elbow connecting the toilet to the sewer riser.
IN two-story house these elements may be repeated on each floor, but they may also be missing, in which case appropriate adjustments must be made to the list provided.
All of the listed parts are connected to a horizontally located outlet pipe. Since we are talking about a gravity drainage system, when laying the drainage channel, it is installed with a slope of 2-5 millimeters in the direction of the drainage and is connected to the riser of the drainage system.
The size of the outlet pipe may vary within the nominal diameter 32-50 millimeters. In practice, they usually prefer to make do with one maximum diameter, which simplifies the selection of fittings. See the diagram below.
All data on the use of plumbing elements are summarized in an axonometric drawing, according to which it is necessary to calculate the need for materials.
When laying sewer pipes in a country house, all connections must be made at an angle of 135 degrees, for which appropriate fittings are produced.
How to make a diagram of the internal sewage system at home yourself
Such a graphic document provides for the display of all communications in the house, including the drainage diagram. The following circumstances are taken into account:
- All plumbing fixtures are installed on the floor along one wall, common to rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.
- The kitchen is equipped with a sink, dishwasher and washing machine.
- These units are connected to a common outlet pipe through siphons, which prevent air from the sewer with characteristic odors from entering the room.
- The outlet pipe passes through a hole in the wall into the bathroom, where the following plumbing fixtures can be connected: washbasin, bathtub, washing machine– each device with its own siphon.
- The next hole in the wall opens into the toilet, where a bidet and toilet can be placed.
- All connections are made to an outlet pipe with a diameter of 40-50 millimeters using tees at an angle of 135 degrees. The connections must be made “in a socket”, equipped with a sealing collar for tightness.
The system for collecting and disposing of wastewater is free-flowing, so the sewerage drainage line. This rule must be followed very scrupulously.
If the slope is insufficient, water drainage will be difficult or impossible, and exceeding the parameter will lead to accelerated drainage. As a result, the water will drain, and some of the contaminants will remain in the pipe, creating the preconditions for future blockage.
The second significant component of the internal sewerage system in a private house is the riser, which receives waste water from the outlet pipe. There may be several such outlets.
For this reason, the diameter of the riser pipe is selected within 100-150 millimeters. The riser must be equipped with an inspection to monitor its condition and ensure the possibility of cleaning.
But functionally, this element of the system performs another important task - its continuation provides ventilation in the sewerage system.
Another revision is installed at the upper end of the riser in the house, to which the base of the fan pipe is attached. It is discharged through the ceiling and roofing. The upper end must be at least half a meter above the roof ridge to reliably remove unpleasant sewer odors.
In addition, when the riser pipe is completely filled with drain water, the siphon may break.
A vacuum is created in the filled riser pipe, as a result of which the water seals in the siphons are sucked into the riser. Air, not at all scented, penetrates into the living space of the house through empty water seals. The result is obvious.
This unsightly situation is completely resolved by installing a fan pipe through which air enters the system, equalizing the pressure.
The fan pipe must be protected by the head from clogging with debris and leaves. They are most often made in the form of a deflector, creating an upward air flow for ventilation.
Thus, the riser plays a vital role in the overall drainage system and all the features of its design must be taken into account when designing the sewer system.
Features of sewerage installation in a two-story private house
The installation of the upper floor in a country house also involves the use of a drainage system. There are fewer drain points, usually a shower and a toilet.
To save money, the sewerage distribution on the second floor is carried out in parallel to a similar network on the first floor. This simplifies the design and installation of the system, since there is no need to install a second riser - the drain will be connected to the existing one.
Elements of the external sewer system
External system wastewater treatment and disposal consists of a number of units, the action of which is aimed at disinfecting wastewater.
The main ones are:
- Filter wells or septic tanks. The first ones are the easiest to manufacture and operate. They are a pit in the ground up to three meters deep. The transverse size can reach two meters regardless of its shape. The walls of the pit are reinforced with concrete or brickwork. They can be solid or perforated with holes of 40-60 millimeters. A filter up to 80 centimeters thick is installed at the bottom of the well.
You can use slag, gravel, broken bricks for it. The latter is placed in the top layer of broken bricks, the fraction size is about 50 millimeters. For the gravel filter, material from 15 millimeters is used.
- Septic tanks. The container is divided by one or more partitions.
The drained liquid fills the first chamber. At the site where the liquid jet falls, you need to install a protective plate that will not allow it to erode the silt layer. A cartridge with a bacterial culture, which will become the basis of an aerobic filter, must be placed in the chamber.
In it, the biological mass decomposes pollution. Water overflows over the upper edge of the partition and enters the second chamber, where an aerator is installed and the water is blown through with sprayed air. In this case, the contaminants are oxidized and further processed, this time by anaerobic bacteria in the presence of oxygen
When using a septic tank, the degree of wastewater treatment reaches 75–90%, which indicates the need for additional purification for complete disinfection.
- Soil field filtration
- Sewage installation projects are carried out individually depending on actual conditions.
This method is used for post-treatment of wastewater as it passes through soils. From the septic tank, the liquid enters the drainage pipe system, passing through a gravel filter and a double layer of geofabric.
At the same time, all fine particles are retained in them, and the degree of purification reaches 98%.
The limitation for the use of this method of additional wastewater treatment is the characteristics of the soil. Fields are ineffective on soils with low permeability - dense loams and clays. Sandy gravel and sandy soils are the most favorable, allowing for high-quality filtration of wastewater.
- Infiltrators. Infiltrates are installed on low-permeability soils. These are box-shaped plastic products with side bars, closed at the top and open at the bottom. Depending on the volume of processing, up to 3-4 devices can be installed sequentially.
Any of the described objects can be used both together and in the configuration chosen by the buyer. The connection of objects is made by laying plastic pipes with a diameter of 100-150 millimeters, less often - for large objects - pipes of 200 millimeters are used.
In addition, each external sewerage facility is equipped with ventilation system, inside the building are used for this purpose fan pipes.
The use of septic tanks is most popular in areas with insufficient rainfall, while the purified liquid is actively used for reuse for economic needs.
Design of external sewerage
These two components of a single task are completely opposite. If the internal sewerage system is intended for collecting wastewater, then the external one is for its disinfection and disposal.
Therefore, the rules for its design have only one similarity with internal requirements - the slope from the foundation of the house towards the storage tank should be 1-2 millimeters per meter for the same reasons (see above).
The tasks solved by external sewerage are the processing of wastewater for the purpose of its disinfection. Water discharged into the ground after purification must be absolutely safe, since, after final purification by ground filtration, it returns to the consumer.
Since the object moves into the external environment, the depth of soil freezing must be taken into account. The pipe should be located below this level.
But, even if this condition is met, it is advisable to insulate the sewer pipe in case of emergency climatic circumstances, which have recently happened with enviable regularity.
And to guarantee the integrity of the pipeline in case of a critical drop in temperature.
Factors influencing circuit design
They can be both objective, caused by specific conditions, and subjective, arising from the appropriate attitude of the designer.
The first include the already mentioned depth of soil freezing, which affects the depth of the pipe in the outer part of the sewer.
Objective reasons also explain the choice of the method of filtering liquid purified by septic tanks. When installing sewerage on clay soils with low water permeability, the method using infiltrates is forced to be chosen.
The factors of the first group include the absence of a special closed shaft for placing a vent pipe. We have already seen its necessity. In such a situation, it is installed with an outlet through the wall in a wall-mounted version; it is fastened to the wall using brackets.
If installing a drain pipe in this option is also undesirable, you can use air valve to relieve pressure in the sewer drain.
Types of sewerage facilities and their functioning
To disinfect and purify wastewater sewered in a private home, several techniques are used:
- Accumulation of liquid in a special container. Here the primary separation of the waste into solid liquid fractions occurs. It uses chemical and biological preparations that help liquefy the mass and its partial processing by active bacteria. Culture can be purchased in specialized stores or at the construction market.
The given cleaning scheme will be used in industrial conditions, but most operations in one form or another are also performed on home cleaning devices.
INFORMATION TO HELP!!! Thus, chemical and bacteriological treatment of wastewater is carried out in the storage tank. Further purification occurs in the filter well. The filter in this case consists of gravel and sand. Good results allows the use of granulated slag and broken bricks, which are good adsorbents.
The well body was made of a concrete ring with a diameter of up to 2.5 meters and a height of up to 2 meters. A neck was installed in the upper part in such a way that only the metal lid remained at ground level.
A filter mass is poured around the ring. It is also practiced to make the body using brickwork.
A further development of filter devices is the production of septic tanks with several chambers designed for various purposes.
The first tank serves for the accumulation of wastewater, primary separation into fractions, chemical and biological treatment, and aeration. Treatment with atomized air is carried out to further oxidize the decomposition products contained in the effluent.
To do this, a compressor operating in continuous mode is built into the cleaning system.
In the last section treatment plant a filter well is installed in which wastewater is purified.
The design of an autonomous cleaning system may differ in different versions, but the operating principle remains unchanged. The degree of wastewater treatment in modern septic tanks reaches 98%, which is a very high figure.
However, the most modern device requires periodic pumping and desilting.
Laying depth and angle of inclination of pipes to the tank
How deep the elements of the outer part of the sewer system need to be placed depends on climatic features construction region. One thing is obvious - the most dangerous thing for a pipeline is its freezing, especially if it is made of metal materials.
Behind this phenomenon is most often its destruction. But the most unpleasant thing is that before the weather warms up, you can forget about the operation of the sewer system. Only after it is possible to excavate the system is it time to spend money on repairs and restoration of the system.
Routing and laying of pipes
As a result of the accumulated experience, certain rules for the installation of internal and external pipelines when laying sewers have been formed. They look like this:
- Regardless of the location and method of its placement, the type of pipes and other conditions, it is mandatory to observe a slope towards the drain when laying it. In this case, you should be guided by the requirements of SNiPs, since each pipe size requires a certain slope. Violation of the rules regarding its size usually leads to the formation of a blockage.
- The distances between sewerage objects must be optimal in length; if they exceed 4-5 meters, an inspection insert is necessary. An inspection well must be installed in 10-meter sections.
- When laying a sewer system in a country house (underground installation), you must follow the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85 and 2.04.01-85 regarding compliance with the distances between individual sewer network objects.
- In Russian conditions important factor is to place the pipeline below the zero freezing point of the soil. To ensure this factor, the trench must be deep enough, but you can take the path of insulating the sewer, even using heating cables during installation.
- Laying of sewer pipes is carried out only on a bed of sand and the covering is also provided on top. This stage is very important for their integrity.
When using plastic pipes, tamp the sand layer carefully. Best results gives abundant shedding of shelter water. In this case, the highest quality compaction occurs, after which it is possible to backfill with soil.
Watch video
The correct autonomous sewage system for a country house can work long time subject to quality installation and proper maintenance.
Insulation of sewer pipes
This event allows you to avoid performing extensive earthworks when laying communications in regions with harsh climate and protect shallow pipes from freezing. For this purpose, various insulating materials are used:
- glass wool;
- mineral wool;
- foamed polystyrene, and many others.
For complete guarantee, you can also install a heating cable with a switch-on sensor when the temperature drops critically. The costs incurred will eliminate the need for repair work and associated costs. A sewer line constructed in this way does not require deep burial.
Above, we have already considered the requirements for the angle of inclination of gravity sewer pipes for the internal system. They are also valid for its outer part: 1-2 millimeters per meter of wiring length.
Storage tank volume calculator
A septic tank is a cleaning device that must contain and process the required volumes of household wastewater. First of all, you need to take into account that the septic tank in accordance with sanitary requirements should be sufficient for a minimum of a three-day wastewater clarification/treatment cycle.
Simply put, the minimum volume of the treatment facility’s chambers corresponds to the total three-day water consumption of all residents of a private house. There must also be a certain operational reserve in case of replenishment in the family, i.e., an increase in the number of consumers.
Determining the actual daily water consumption of one person is not a simple question; so, according to SNiP this is 200 liters; this indicator is currently considered outdated due to the widespread use of various types household appliances using water.
For example, it is considered that:
- taking a shower for 7 minutes will require 70 liters;
- using a bidet for 5 minutes – 40 liters;
- one-time bath or jacuzzi – about 110 liters;
- in one cycle of work dishwasher 15 liters consumed;
- 1 toilet flush consumes up to 9 liters of water.
Taking into account the above, in this calculator you are asked to choose and enter into the parameters for calculation the daily water consumption of one person from the range of 260-370 liters; This is the average range of recommendations.
SNiP 2.04.03-85, depending on wastewater flow, distinguishes:
- single-chamber types - with wastewater flow up to 1 m3/day;
- two-chamber - up to 10 m3/day;
- three-chamber - over 10 m3/day; therefore, the attached diagram above is not mandatory, but serves only to demonstrate one of possible options septic tank devices.
For small farms, reinforced concrete rings are most often used as anaerobic concrete tanks. Reinforced concrete sewerage structures are distinguished by their reliability and practically unlimited service life. The problem that previously accompanied them - insufficient tightness, is now solved by modern means of waterproofing. MDS 40-2.200 recommends placing the bottoms of the tanks at least 3 meters from the surface, which limits the number of rings in one section (chamber) of the septic tank.
The active volume of a septic tank (Vak) is determined as the product of the daily water consumption of one consumer (Q liters), the number of consumers (K) and the number of days (D) of wastewater clarification (sludge): Vak=Q * K * D. According to the recommendation of SNiP 2.04.03 -85, with annual discharge of sediments, the minimum D is taken: 3, if the flow of wastewater is up to 5 m3/day or 5, if the flow is more than 5 m3/day. In addition, if you plan to clean the tank less than twice a year, then Vak should be increased by 20 percent for sediment.
When determining the height of chambers (for example, from concrete rings), it should also be taken into account that according to clause 3.35, MDS 40-2.200, the height of the air volume above the liquid level cannot be less than 500 mm.
The capacity of the septic tank must ensure the daily volume of wastewater. The amount of sewage liquid directly depends on the number of people living in a private house. As a first approximation, it is believed that one person consumes up to 200 liters per day.
The areas of these expenses are quite traditional and are associated with economic and sanitary consumption. Thus, a family of 4 people consumes about a cubic meter of liquid per day.
You can more accurately determine this indicator using the built-in online calculator.
Septic tank and cesspool
The most important device at the outer part of the sewer is a septic tank or other device for filtering wastewater. The installation of a concrete or brick structure does not involve any special features.
Watch video
Here are the popular devices today: high degree The preparedness of the plastic needs additional attention. In areas where there are high seasonal groundwater levels, the tank may float.
In sealed cesspools, the contents are retained for the entire time between pumping. With a large family, such operations are performed quite often, because each person produces about 100 liters of wastewater per day.
The cesspool is located in a place convenient for access by a sewage truck, no more than 6 meters from the border of the site.
The danger of cesspools lies in insufficient wastewater treatment. If in sealed devices this issue is not considered at all, then in filtration devices the degree of purification is about 75%, which is clearly not enough and contaminants gradually accumulate in the soil.
Filter wells
Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house is also possible in other ways. So, outer part performed in the form of filter wells. This becomes possible on marl or sandy soils with high permeability.
The composition of the filter in this case is heterogeneous:
- in the lower part a layer of blast furnace slag up to half a meter thick is poured;
- then there is a layer of gravel with a fraction of 15 millimeters;
- The top layer should be properly poured from broken bricks, which exhibit strong adsorbing characteristics.
On upper layers In such a filter, large components of the filtrate are deposited, followed by smaller ones. Filter wells are effective if biological wastewater treatment is used. Aerobic bacteria gradually develop in the filter, capable of processing organic matter contained in wastewater.
It is possible and often used to dispose of filtered liquid by drainage ditches to the nearest body of water. Wastewater in the drainage ditch undergoes additional purification by passing through a gravel-sand filter.
The degree of purification in a filter well, depending on the throughput characteristics of the soil, can reach 90-95%.
Watch video
In general, a filter well is a transitional step from a cesspool to a septic tank. If you add another compartment with an aeration unit to the container, you can get a full-fledged septic tank. Sprayed air actively oxidizes the wastewater biomass, forming another bactericidal sludge layer, in this case it is represented by anaerobic bacteria.
Calculation of the volume of filter structures for sewerage at home
It is necessary to understand the responsibility of the residents of the house for ecological state places of residence. And it largely depends on the purity of groundwater. Therefore, a number of documents regulating water consumption and water treatment have been developed:
- Building codes and rules 2.04.03.85, regulating the installation of external sewage systems in private houses, as well as the arrangement of sanitary protection zones for small protective structures;
- SNiP 2.04.01.85 for internal networks and water supply in terms of determining the volume of wastewater;
- manual on system design procedures engineering support MDS 40.2.200, which provides calculations for calculating the volume of wastewater in private housing construction.
Watch video
Calculation of the volume of a septic tank can be performed for both a single-chamber scheme and a multi-chamber one. When the volume of consumption per day is about one cubic meter, one chamber is enough for the complete biocenosis of the contents of the septic tank.
With a larger number of drains, you need to use two or more containers, which are installed in series. Septic tanks of two or more chambers are divided equally, but it is possible to use devices in which the first chamber occupies up to 75% of the volume. Important - cesspools According to sanitary standards, this is prohibited!
The main importance when developing a septic tank project for a country house is its working volume, which can be calculated using the following algorithm:
- as the displacement of the daily volumes of incoming wastewater, multiplied by the time of their anaerobic processing in a day;
- as the total amount of liquid in all compartments of the septic tank;
- the distance from the bottom of the container to the lower edge of the spout pipe is taken into account;
- from the volume you need to subtract the height of the sediment layer, which can be up to 20% of the depth of the container; if cleaning is carried out in accordance with the rules - 2 times a year, this indicator can be ignored.
When calculating with your own hands, your own treatment device with final purification by filtration through the ground, you should take into account that this is realistic with a liquid consumption of 3-5 cubic meters per day.
If it is higher, you need to use SBR reactors or use a combined design with treatment with both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria, not excluding the use of aeration.
The use of biochemical materials for wastewater treatment increases the degree of wastewater treatment and accelerates its processing tens of times.
The use of biochemical treatment of wastewater makes it possible to purify it to a degree of 98%, so this water can be used for watering the garden and at the same time obtaining an increase in the harvest. To fertilize the soil you can
use sludge deposits.
Principles of sewerage pipeline construction
The main difference between drain systems and other pipelines is following features:
- Gravity flow when working in conditions atmospheric pressure. Liquid flows through pipe products under the influence of gravity along a predetermined slope.
- The flow rate is set by the angle of inclination of the pipeline towards the outflow. Moreover, its value should be strictly within 1-2 millimeters per meter. The reasons have already been mentioned above.
- Tightness. For a gravity pipeline, it is provided by a socket connection of the elements using a rubber collar for sealing.
When installing a sewer system, it is not allowed to connect pipes skewed from the common axis. Otherwise, a gap will form between the wall of the part and the cuff with leakage of the transported liquid.
Which pipe products to choose at home
For wastewater disposal systems, pipelines from various materials:
- Ceramic. This material is very durable and is not subject to any influence from aggressive environments. Disadvantages include complex installation and difficult logistics.
- For many decades, the market leaders have been cast iron sewer pipes. This material is almost ideal for this application. The manufacturing material is resistant to corrosion in most environments and has fairly high strength characteristics. The accuracy of the socket connection is ensured by the production method - casting. In addition, the use of cast iron pipes allows the use of caulking during their installation to improve the tightness of the connection.
To facilitate the installation of cast iron pipelines, large assortment fittings.
- Asbestos pipes. Some positive characteristics of asbestos pipes do not cancel the main negative point - such materials are prohibited for use in residential construction.
- Plastic sewer pipes today have practically replaced all other types. Simple delivery and unloading, manufacturability of the material during installation and durability have led to the fact that they have become the main materials for those who decided to make sewage systems with their own hands. The main method of assembling pipelines is in a socket. For internal systems, the main dimensions are:
- For outlets from plumbing fixtures - diameters of 40 or 50 millimeters;
- For the riser and drain pipe - size 100 or 110 mm;
- For the outlet pipe from the house to the septic tank 100, 110 or 150.
Laying a pipeline from the house to the tank
Watch video
Therefore, a rule has been established that determines the installation of a storage tank at a distance of at least 10 meters from a residential building. However, there are sources that regulate this value at 5 meters.
It should be understood that this is a random discrepancy, but it is better to stick to the first installation option. In this case it will be impossible to make a claim. But, strictly speaking, the correct installation of the container depends on the throughput and filtering capacity of the soil on the site.
It is mandatory to comply with the slope in the parameters mentioned above.
To lay a sewer outlet pipe, you will need to dig a trench of the required depth, determined by the level of soil freezing. Let’s imagine the labor costs associated with fulfilling this requirement, because we also need to provide for the thickness of the drainage layer. If in the Moscow region the soil freezes to 1.8 meters, then the depth of the trench will be more than 2.2. That's why many people prefer ditches shallow, insulating the pipes with a protective jacket and heating cable.
The order of work is as follows:
- The route is marked with pegs or a cord.
- Excavation of soil to a connection depth of about 60 centimeters.
- Backfilling of the drainage - about 20 centimeters of gravel and 10 centimeters of sand at the bottom.
- Filling the drain with water to seal.
- Marking the slope is done using a cord and a building level. The upper end at the exit from the building should be 20 centimeters higher than the opposite end at a ten-meter distance.
- The pipes are laid section by section to a depth according to the laying pattern, the position is regulated by placing bricks under them and adding sand.
- The heating cable is installed and secured with tape.
- During installation, a thermal insulating casing is placed on the pipe.
- The pipe with cable and insulation is covered with sand, then with previously removed soil.
The use of plastic pipes for the external drainage system will ensure their integrity during seasonal soil movements, since they are elastic enough to withstand such loads. Installing a sewer system in your home from this material ensures its performance for up to 50 years.
DIY installation cost
Paying for the services of invited specialists costs a lot of money. But if you analyze the installation technology according to the wiring diagram of the sewer system, it becomes obvious that there is nothing in it that cannot be done correctly yourself.
Watch video
How to increase efficiency
The uninterrupted operation of the drainage system is, first of all, ensured high-quality installation.
Watch video
The only thing that can be advised to the user is to install a waste shredder under the sink in addition to the sewerage system; doing this correctly is not difficult. This action will significantly protect the system from the formation of blockages.
PostsThe end of the second decade of the 21st century suggests that in a modern private house, including a dacha, a latrine is somewhat more technologically advanced than a modest wooden booth at the end of the plot. It is therefore not surprising how advanced sewer systems have become today for country houses and materials for them. And all this is quite affordable and feasible for a home craftsman to install with his own hands.
Any system for drainage and disposal of wastewater in a residential building, no matter how small it may be, needs to build a diagram that will demonstrate the size of the system on a scale and help in choosing:
- the type of plumbing and its placement, including additional suppliers of wastewater, such as a bathhouse;
- route internal wiring pipes;
- exit points of the sewer system from the building;
- passing the sewer line outside the building;
- type of equipment and its location on the site;
- materials needed to create the system.
Types of sewer system
The most popular sewer systems today are based on the use of:
- cesspools;
- storage tanks;
- two-chamber septic tanks;
- septic tanks with filtration;
- septic tanks with biofilter;
- septic tanks with forced air supply.
Did you know?As archaeologists have established, the world's earliest outlines of sewerage systems, which appeared in Mesopotamia, are almost five thousand years old. However, a sewer system reminiscent of the modern one appeared in Ancient Rome in the 6th century BC.
The time-tested method of draining wastewater is simple and cheap. To construct a cesspool in the form of a well without a bottom, concrete rings, bricks and similar materials are needed. 
Since the bottom of this well consists of bare soil, household liquid waste flows through the well onto it, seeps out and begins to be cleaned. The more solid fractions of this waste are retained in the pit and precipitate. When a lot of them accumulate in the well, cleaning is required.
This system operates reliably and justifies its existence if the volume of wastewater from the house per day does not exceed a cubic meter. This amount allows microorganisms in the soil to cope with the processing of organic elements and thereby purify the water entering the soil through the bottom of the well.
When this volume is exceeded, the water no longer has time to be purified and begins to pollute groundwater. It makes sense to build a cesspool if the dacha is visited by a small number of people only on weekends. In any case, this primitive type of sewer system is becoming less and less popular among country homeowners today. 
A container for receiving waste waste installed near the house can be made of plastic, brick, concrete, or metal, provided that the container is hermetically sealed.
This is especially true for land plots where the groundwater level is high. Hermetically sealed closed tank will protect both the soil and groundwater from pollution. The only inconvenience of this system is its dependence on frequent calls for vacuum cleaners, which is why the cost of its operation is quite high. 
This device consists of two tanks, the first of which is equipped with a sealed bottom, and the second is not equipped, being covered with a layer of sand-crushed stone mixture from below.
Did you know?The all-round genius Leonardo da Vinci even invented a flush toilet in 1516. But even the French king could not bring the revolutionary idea to life, since at that time there was no water supply or sewage system at all.
The wastewater flows into the first tank, where solid organic matter sinks, fatty particles rise to the top, and partially purified water is located in the middle.
Both volumes are connected to each other by a pipe with a slight slope towards the second tank. According to it, which has already partly become more clean water flows into the second tank. And there it, passing through the sand-crushed stone mixture, as well as through the soil, is further purified. 
It is clear that in the first compartment, which is a sump, masses of waste gradually accumulate in order to eliminate which it is necessary to resort to the services of sewer trucks.
But it is recommended to equip a second container only when there is at least a meter distance from its bottom, filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, to groundwater. Moreover, this sand-crushed stone mixture needs to be changed every five years.
It consists of a tank divided into several sections connected to each other by slightly inclined pipes. As a rule, such a tank is manufactured at the factory.
The first tank is used to settle liquid waste. From it, partly clarified water flows into another compartment of the container. And there, anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic elements make the water even purer, after which it flows into the third reservoir. 
And from it, through the ground, the water reaches filtration fields specially created from a sand-crushed stone mixture, where it is purified up to 80% and discharged into special ditches or containers. This method of treating liquid waste is advisable only where there is a large area of land.
After all, only from the filtration fields to the house or source drinking water the distance should be at least 30 m. Plus, the filtration areas themselves occupy a lot of space, although they are underground. In addition, groundwater should in this case rise no higher than 3 m.
This type of purification device is different in that it can be used on land where the groundwater level is high. It is a tank consisting of four sections connected to each other by pipes with a slight slope.
In the first container, the wastewater settles and flows into another compartment in the form of partially purified water. There, the water is further purified using anaerobic microorganisms and, in a more clarified form, is sent to the third separator compartment, and from there to the fourth. 
And there it is already treated with aerobic bacteria. They require a constant flow of fresh air, supplied here through a pipe that is vented outside to a height of half a meter. Thanks to the treatment with these bacteria, the water reaches a purity of up to 95% and is quite suitable for watering plants, washing cars and other household needs.
This method of sewage treatment is most in demand in country houses with people permanently residing there, since bacteria need a continuous supply of liquid waste, without which they die. And although it is easy to introduce bacteria into the system through the toilet, for full recovery Their full activity will have to wait about two weeks.
This installation, using electricity, significantly enhances wastewater treatment. It does this by forcing atmospheric air, for which an electric pump and an air distributor are used.
This type of purification device can consist of one tank divided into three compartments, or three different tanks connected to each other through inclined pipes.
Primary purified wastewater from the first compartment is poured into the aeration tank, which is the second section. There is aerobic sludge, supplemented by plants and microorganisms. That's exactly what they need forced submission fresh air.
After this, the more purified liquid, together with the sludge, is poured into a third container, where, after settling, it undergoes better cleaning, and the sludge that is in the sediment is returned to the aeration tank using a pump. 
Forced air serves as an effective catalyst for the process, resulting in water being purified much faster and more efficiently.
And although the installation consumes little electricity, it nevertheless requires an electrical network, which is partly its disadvantage. The operation of this system also requires continuous residence of one of the household members in the house.
How to install a sewer system with your own hands
With a high-quality diagram of the future sewer system and the availability of all the necessary materials, you can proceed directly to its phased construction.
There are three stages, which include:
- installation of an internal sewerage system;
- laying pipes outside the house;
- construction of treatment facilities.
Pipe and riser routing
Indoor wiring includes horizontally placed pipes connecting plumbing fixtures to a vertically standing pipe, which is the riser. And it connects to the main line that carries sewage to the outside.
Ideally, it is advisable to couple the installation of a sewer system with the construction of a house, but it is quite possible to assemble the wiring located inside in an already built house, especially if it is small.
In this case, the following requirements should be adhered to:
- Since wastewater from plumbing fixtures is discharged by gravity, the pipes that go from them to the riser must be laid with a certain slope.
- Sanitary equipment must be separated from pipelines by water seals in the form of siphons, which are a curved pipe with water constantly in it, which does not allow odors to penetrate from the sewer into the premises.
- The pipe connecting the toilet to the riser should not exceed 1 m.
- The intra-house sewer system requires ventilation, for which the riser is discharged outside with a slight elevation above the roof.
Important!The toilet must be connected to the horizontal wiring in its lowest part on the floor.
Pipe routing
If pipes are laid in an already built house, then there are three ways to lay them:
- with the help of scraping, ditches are made in the walls, in which the pipes are hidden;
- lay them on the floor;
- fixed to the walls using clamps.
The pipeline is assembled, starting from the riser and ending with the plumbing. The main thing when laying horizontal pipes is to establish the required angle of inclination.
The larger the pipe, the smaller the angle should be. For example, with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, one end of its meter section should be 30 mm higher than the second, and with a diameter of 200 mm, this elevation is only 7 mm.
Video: routing sewer pipes At first glance, it seems that the greater the slope of the pipeline, the better the drainage will flow through it. However, in reality, excessive slope causes water to roll down the pipe too quickly, and the harder parts of the wastewater cannot keep up with it and are retained in the pipeline.
Installation and assembly of the riser
The installation of an internal sewer system begins with the installation of an intra-house collector in the form of a riser. In its lower part, the riser is connected to a pipe that passes through the foundation and carries the wastewater outside, and at the top it is crowned with ventilation rising above the roof.
Important! The best option, when there is only one riser for the whole house.
Installation and installation of the riser are carried out in the following sequence:
- On the wall, where the future riser will pass, you need to draw its axis with a pencil. If desired, a recess is made in the wall, the width and depth slightly exceeding the diameter of the riser pipe. When attaching the pipe externally to the wall, clamps and brackets are used. The fasteners should be installed under the sockets connecting the pipes; the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 4 m.
- Then it is necessary to pre-assemble the riser and attach it to the wall to check whether all dimensions were correctly observed, taking into account the fittings for connecting the horizontal part of the system. Installation locations are immediately determined fastening elements, if external installation of the riser on the wall is provided. It should be taken into account that the pipe cannot be installed close to the wall; the gap between them must be at least 3 cm.
- Having eliminated all errors in the installation of pipes, the riser is assembled using seals and secured with clamps, if external fastening is provided.
- Next, you need to connect the riser to the pipe that leads the wastewater outside. And the upper end of the riser can be connected to a waste pipe rising above the roof.
Fan pipes used for ventilation of sewerage systems connect internal system with the external environment, helping:
- remove harmful and foul-smelling gases generated in the sewer system into the atmosphere;
- maintain the required pressure inside the system.
For all their usefulness, vent pipes are not at all necessary in all house constructions without exception. In a small one-story country house, where the volume of wastewater is small, it is quite possible to do without this device. But in large houses, with two or more floors, with a considerable number of residents, fan devices are certainly necessary.
They work on the principle of sucking atmospheric air into the sewer system when the air inside it is rarefied. In this they are helped by vacuum valves, which just let atmospheric air in when its pressure in the system drops, but prevent the gases accumulating in the system from escaping. 
Fan pipes with vacuum valves are installed on the roofs of the building, where they usually rise 20 cm above the roof. Sometimes this ventilation is installed in attic spaces buildings.
The sewer outlet is a system of pipes that is located under the foundation of the house and serves as a continuation of the riser. It is an intermediate link between the in-house collector and the external part of the sewer system.
The most difficult point in its installation is the exit to the outside under or through the foundation to connect to the external pipeline.
The outlet equipment requires pipes of the same diameter as the riser, as well as bends that transfer the vertical pipeline to a horizontal position, in which it is discharged through the foundation to the outside. 
The external sewer network starts from the outlet coming out of the foundation and goes to the treatment device, where it delivers liquid waste from the house.
To install an out-of-home sewerage section, you should adhere to the following rules:
- the external pipeline must be located at such a depth that it does not freeze in winter;
- if it is not possible to dig a deep trench, the pipe must be insulated;
- Every ten meters on straight sections of the pipeline and at its turns it is necessary to install inspection wells.
Apart from digging a trench to a frost-free depth, laying the pipe does not require much effort:
- First, the trench is prepared, which consists of the required depth and slope towards the cleaning device.
- A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture of sand and clay is poured onto its bottom.
- A pipe is placed on top of this layer.
- The gap between it and the walls of the trench is also filled with this mixture.
- The trench is filled with previously excavated soil.
- The landscape damaged by these operations is being restored.
Ancient cesspools without a bottom are now used less and less. Instead, storage and cleaning devices are used. The first of them is a large tank, hermetically sealed, as a result of which its contents do not come into contact with the surrounding soil.
Video: choosing a septic tank for a private home
This component suburban sewerage is most rationally used in areas with high level groundwater, as well as in country houses and dachas, which are visited infrequently and by a small number of people.
If the country house is large, equipped with many types of plumbing and is constantly inhabited by a large number of residents, then it is necessary to install a septic tank with soil purification drains or with forced aeration.
Device
The storage type of sewer system works very simply: liquid waste enters the tank and accumulates in it without coming into contact with the surrounding soil. After the container is completely filled with wastewater, it is necessary to resort to the services of vacuum cleaners to remove it.
Both large factory-made plastic tanks and those made independently from brick, concrete, concrete rings or iron barrels welded together are used as storage tanks. 
Various types Septic tanks are more complex. They consist of several sections, in the first of which solid waste elements precipitate, undergoing anaerobic treatment by microorganisms, and partially purified water flows into the next section, where it is purified using in various ways filtration.
The choice of one type of septic tank or another is determined by the level of groundwater on the site, the size of the site itself, as well as the house, the number of permanent inhabitants in it and the plumbing fixtures they use.
Construction
To build a storage tank you should:
- Dig a pit.
- Install a concrete base in it.
- Build a brick wall around it, providing a hole for the sewer pipe in its upper part. On top of the concrete cover there should be another hole for the sewer hose, which should be tightly closed at all other times.
- Instead of bricks, you can use concrete rings or welded metal ones.
They are mounted differently, but their installation is largely similar:
- First you need to dig a pit, which should be about half a meter larger in length and width than the container installed in it.
- Then the bottom of the pit should be leveled and covered with a 2-centimeter layer of sand.
- For concrete and plastic containers Concreting of the base is required.
- After this, you need to install the tank.
- The installed tank must be connected to pipes, through one of which sewage is supplied, and purified water comes out of the other.
- Then, if necessary, it is possible to add water purification elements using soil.
- Hatches should also be installed.
- And finally, you need to fill the container with previously removed soil.
Alternative options
If someone does not want or is not yet able to install a sewer system in their country house or dacha, they have the opportunity to do without it using dry closets. They represent standalone devices, which do not require connection to the sewerage system.
Currently, there are many types of such toilets, but the most popular among them are:
Peat, as is easy to understand from the name, use special peat with bioactivators for composting waste products. Used in liquid special solutions, accelerating the processing of waste products.
And electric ones, the most expensive, separate waste into solid and liquid fractions, the first of which are then dried, and the second are disposed of.
Despite the apparent complexity of this process, installing a sewerage system in a house with your own hands is quite possible home handyman. With a correctly drawn up diagram of the future system, the availability of materials and a great desire to bring the plan to life, success, as practice shows, almost always comes.
Was this article helpful?
Thanks for your opinion!
Write in the comments what questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!
