How to make site drainage with your own hands - types of drainage and technology for its construction. Construction of a drainage ditch How to properly build a drainage system

It is advisable to drain the site in cases where there is a high level of groundwater, water after rain or melting snow for a long time does not come off, and also when the site has clay or loamy soil.

First select the type of drainage

There are several main types of drainage:

All that remains is to choose the appropriate system.

Which pipes to use for the drainage system

In order to make drainage on the site with your own hands, you should use perforated plastic pipes.

Their diameter should be 63 or 110 mm.

Note!

The products have a corrugated outer surface, but inside they are perfectly smooth, due to which they have high throughput.

Perforated plastic pipes for drainage

So, it is better to choose products with a geofabric filter for sandy soil and with a coconut fiber filter for clay soil.

For crushed stone soil, ordinary drainage pipes are sufficient.

Such a do-it-yourself drainage arrangement on the site will be as effective as possible, because siltation is excluded.

Drainage pipe with geotextile filter

If products with a filter are not available, you can use regular perforated pipes.

They need to be laid on a layer of geotextile and a cushion of crushed stone, covered with the same geofabric on top. This way you can prevent silting of the system.

Laying drainage not geotextiles

The length of the drainage pipe is determined in each case separately and will depend on the volume of drainage.

The basis is productivity: 30 liters per day for each meter of product.

If you have a regular sewage pipe, you can learn how to make a drainage pipe yourself.

To do this, you will need to drill holes in the product with a diameter of 0.5 cm at a distance of 10 cm from each other, evenly distributing them over the area of the pipe.

Do-it-yourself drainage installation on the site

If you decide to make drainage on the site yourself, you will need to do the following:

After this, it remains to figure out how to properly make drainage on the site with your own hands. To do this, you need to study the corresponding step-by-step instructions.

How is surface drainage done?

Let's start with the easiest job - arranging an open drainage system. Doing surface drainage of a site with your own hands is very simple.

You will need to do the following:

dig main and auxiliary trenches. Trunk lines are usually located along the perimeter of the site; they have a slope towards the collector. Auxiliary trenches go from the place of water accumulation to the main ones; accordingly, the slope is made in this direction. It should be approximately 2 cm per meter of trench. The walls of the trench are made at an angle of 30 degrees;
compact the walls of the trench. If necessary, they can be reinforced with metal mesh. When drainage is installed using special trays, a sand cushion 10 cm high is made, trays are installed on it, and sand catchers are installed in them;
cover the ditches with special nets to improve their aesthetics and prevent large debris and branches from getting inside;
if backfill drainage is done, then coarse crushed stone is filled to 2/3 of the depth of the trench, with crushed stone of a smaller fraction on top. Next, the turf is laid. To prevent siltation, crushed stone can be wrapped in geofabric.

Doing this kind of site drainage with your own hands is very easy and quick and allows you to drain excess water from the surface of the earth.

Deep drainage - how to do it yourself

There is more complex and time-consuming work ahead, but if you follow the step-by-step instructions, you can complete the task very quickly.

Let's look at how to make this type of drainage on a site:

Deep drainage of the site

dig trenches with a slope towards the water intake well of 2 cm per meter. The depth will be approximately 1-1.5 meters for sandy soil, 80 cm for loam and 70-75 cm for clay soil;
lay a sand cushion 10 cm high at the bottom of the trenches;
lay a layer of geotextile, bring the edges of the material out;
pour a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm approximately 40 cm high;
lay a drainage pipe on the crushed stone;
connect all the pipes together using special adapters, connect the last drainage element to the well;
cover with a 10-15 cm layer of crushed stone on top;
cover with geotextile;
pour a layer of soil on top.

Completion of deep drainage installation

When thinking about how to properly make drainage, it is important to take into account the fact that the drainage pipes should be located at least 50 cm below the foundation level, this will protect it from being washed out by groundwater.

They will only enter the drains, moving along them to the place where the water is drained.

Also, the pipes need to be deepened below the freezing level of the ground.

Drainage on a sloped area

If you are thinking about the question of how to do drainage on a site with a slope, then the sequence of work will be approximately the same as in previous cases.

But, there are some differences in the step-by-step instructions.

You will need to do the following:

Drainage of a site with a slope

explore the area and determine its lowest point, in this place the drainage well will be located;
determine the location of the main trench, preferably along the fence;
dig a ditch of the required size;
Arrange auxiliary trenches in a herringbone pattern - they should converge to the main ditch with the required slope. If the slope is not enough, it must be obtained by gradually deepening the trench to the point of its connection with the main ditch.

Drainage scheme with slope

It will be easier to complete the work if a drainage diagram for the land plot has been drawn up in advance, including data on the terrain.

Video

Many have encountered such an unpleasant situation when, after a rainstorm, it is impossible to go out into the courtyard of a private house or dacha. It’s even worse when the entire crop is flooded with rain or melt water. And how to deal with such a scourge? Of course, for this you can also dig ordinary ditches through which water will be drained, but the more acceptable method will still not be the simplest - drainage on a summer cottage or the territory of a private house. But now let’s try to figure out how to arrange it and how difficult it is to do such work with your own hands.

Read in the article:

Do-it-yourself methods for draining water from the house: some practical tips

The issue of draining rain or melt water from a site is very relevant for all owners of houses, cottages, and even garages with a cellar or inspection hole. This is why drainage is very important. And for sure, there is no need to explain once again that without certain knowledge, such work is unlikely to be completed. But still, it is not so complicated that you need to hire professionals for it, which means there is an opportunity to save money. Now we’ll figure out how to remove water from a site with our own hands and what methods exist for this. In addition, it makes sense to understand the prices of both drainage material and the prices of professional services.

Based on the type of device, such drainage can be divided into internal, external and reservoir. In this case, either one of them or combined drainage, in which two or three methods are used, can be used. First, let's look at general rules arrangement of each of them:

Internal drainage– used for cellars and basements and serves to drain water that has already been absorbed into the soil.
External or open drainage removes water from the area directly during rain, preventing it from lingering on the surface.
Reservoir diversion– is almost always used when building a house. Speaking in simple language- This is a kind of “cushion” under the building that absorbs accumulating water.

Drainage summer cottage- a rather labor-intensive process, but sometimes you can’t do without it. This issue is especially relevant for areas located in lowlands, as well as with high groundwater levels.

Drainage - what is it? Precise definition and photographic examples

To be precise, drainage is a system for removing rain and groundwater from a certain area in order to prevent flooding. Those. its installation is necessary in most cases at the construction stage. But still, finished buildings, around which drainage is not provided, can be protected. The main thing is to think through the entire system in detail, draw up a project and make some efforts to bring it to life.

In order to understand in general terms how the drainage system of a yard or building is arranged, it makes sense to consider several photo examples.

Of course, the entire operation algorithm of the drainage system associated with the device cannot be understood by looking only at the photo. This means that there is a need to consider all the nuances of drainage, both local area, and from the cellar and other buildings. Well, if we return to the question of why drainage is needed, then you can find a lot of answers to it. But the main function of water drainage, naturally, will be to protect the foundation from destruction, and cellars and courtyards from flooding.

Open drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to secure the cellar and foundation

Of course, when installing drainage in summer cottages, you can get by with banal ditches. And yet, nowadays there is a great variety of material that will help make drainage more aesthetically pleasing and beautiful. And it’s quite easy to completely hide highways from view if the need arises. And since the drainage scheme as a whole depends on the purpose of the drained area, it makes sense to understand the nuances, understand how the drainage system on the site should be arranged, and what features there are for drainage from buildings or cellars.

It is important to know! The blind area around buildings and structures, drainpipes and other similar devices are also part of the drainage, and therefore their role should not be underestimated. On the contrary, improperly organized drains from the roof of a building can significantly worsen the removal of water from the local area, nullifying all the efforts of the home craftsman.

So, let's start with the most important, from the point of view of necessity, drainage - around residential buildings.

How to make drainage around the house - practical tips and tricks

The main task before making drainage around the house is to choose the right place for the well into which it will drain. rainwater. At the same time, it must be designed in such a way that it does not have to be pumped out periodically. Also, do not forget about sand traps in gutters.

In general terms, the work is done as follows. A shallow trench is dug along the perimeter of the building and connected to a well. Moreover, it must have a slope that can be measured using building level. Next, the bottom of the dug trench is filled with sand and compacted. Gutters are laid inside, which can be either open or closed with a special mesh. It prevents large debris and leaves from entering the drain.

Important tip! How the drainage will function depends on the slope of the gutter and its correctness. Therefore, it is necessary to measure it very carefully.

The nuances of drainage in a summer cottage

Such water diversion is done to protect plantings from flooding. Mainly used in areas with marshy soil and where the groundwater level is quite high. The essence of such a drainage device is as follows. It is necessary to dig trenches along the site, about half a meter deep, into which you will then need to lay perforated pipes. A sand cushion is made for them on a special fabric. Thus, excess water, again, will fall into the well.

Another way to prevent groundwater from entering the site could be to install gutters around the perimeter. But the most convenient method will be the method of reservoir drainage. In this case, gravel is poured into the dug trenches various sizes, after which they are covered with turf. Today, this is the cheapest of all drainage methods, and therefore the most common. It is worth noting that with all the availability of site drainage systems, few people begin such work. And this is a big mistake. After all, the installed water drainage does not cause any inconvenience, and positive qualities she has quite a lot.

Video: how to drain a site

Draining soil around garages and other buildings

How to make drainage in a garage and what it is needed for are the most common questions that a home craftsman faces when designing such systems. You need to understand that draining groundwater from a room will not only preserve its foundation. After all, many people have a cellar located in the garage, which means it is necessary to protect it from flooding. Of course, there is another way out, such as installing a sealed box (caisson), but over time it will rot. And this design is quite complicated to install.

But even if there is no cellar or inspection hole, drainage in the garage will not hurt. After all, in winter, melted snow will drip from the car, which, evaporating, will greatly humidify the air. And if there is a drainage system, the humidity will remain normal.

Is installing drainage in the basements of houses an extravagance or a necessity?

Some argue that if there is drainage on the site and around the house, then there is absolutely no need for it in the basement of the building. This is a fairly common mistake. Water can also penetrate below the street drainage. And there is no need to say what consequences this can lead to - probably everyone understands this well.

It is most convenient to carry out drainage at the construction stage, i.e. laying the foundation. But even if this was not provided for, there is still a way out. It is possible to drain water even in rooms with concrete floors. We will look in more detail at how to perform such work a little later.

More details about how to make drainage - a necessity for the project

A responsible approach to such work should begin at the design stage, which is not surprising. After all, its functionality depends on the thoughtfulness and drawing up of a scheme for future water drainage. That is why there is a need to carefully draw up a project with exact dimensions, as well as subsequent strict adherence to it.

First you need to measure the area and in general terms think about the location of the highways. In this case, it is worth taking into account the most flooded areas and the slope of the surfaces. The storm well must be located in the lowest location. Do not forget that at each connection (in the corners) there must be technical wells or cleanings. This is dictated by the need to settle sand and silt to prevent blockages of both the pipes themselves and perforations in them.

Then, before properly making drainage on the site, it must be clearly marked according to the drawn up diagram.

Important tip! If the project dimensions are not respected, there is a risk that severe blockages and the impossibility of cleaning without dismantling, you will have to dig up half the site in search of drainage lines. It is for this reason that it is worth saving the sketched diagram.

Constructing a drainage well with your own hands - how to do it right

First, let's look at the three main types of this drainage part. He can be:

Lookout– used for visual observation and prevention of blockages;
Cumulative– excess moisture from the area accumulates inside. Such a device requires periodic pumping;
Absorption– water collected from the territory goes into the ground or into a nearby body of water.

The fact is that before making a drainage well, it is necessary to take into account several factors, such as the slope of the soil, the depth of groundwater, the possibility of drainage into any body of water, etc. Already based on these data, a conclusion is drawn about the appropriateness of one type or another.

Article

Greetings, friends!

Often the land allocated by the architectural department for a summer cottage plot does not meet the owner’s expectations. One common problem is excessive soil moisture. The result of this is poor growth trees and various diseases of garden and vegetable plants. And this is not the only trouble that results from waterlogged soil.

Water accumulating in the soil leads to erosion of the foundation. Country house and other buildings on the plots may begin to settle, and the cellar and basements will be flooded every spring. In addition, when wet soil freezes, it rises and puts pressure on the blind area around buildings and garden paths, which leads to the formation of cracks.

There is a way out of this situation - it is necessary make drainage in your area. This task is not particularly difficult, and the entire complex of work will take no more than two weeks. And the time and effort spent will pay for themselves - this way you will be able to avoid many troubles, increase the durability of buildings and provide for yourself good harvest in the garden and vegetable garden.

You can’t do without drainage systems:

In areas with clay soil, where even a little rain will lead to the appearance of long-standing puddles.
In areas with a high groundwater horizon.
In areas with a horizontal ground surface and no drainage.
In areas located at the foot of the slopes.

Types of drainage systems

Excessive soil moisture in a summer cottage can have two reasons. The first of them is the high clay content in the soil. Such soil does not drain water well; as a result, water from rain and melting snow accumulates and stagnates in the top layer of soil. Another reason is the close location of groundwater to the soil surface. These waters are a serious problem for building foundations and basements, especially in the spring.

Based on the reason high humidity soil, an appropriate type of drainage system can be used to drain excess water. There are two main types of drainage systems - open and closed. The first of them can be used for clay soil - when it is quite enough to remove water from the surface layer. To drain groundwater, we can only use drainage closed type.

What is open drainage?

An open or surface drainage system can be created either according to a previously developed project or without it. There are two ways to make open drainage:

local method
creation of a ditch system

The first method is the simplest option for the drainage system. IN in this case water is not drained from the entire territory of the site as a whole, but only from those places that are subject to flooding in spring, autumn or during prolonged rainy weather.

The first step in constructing an open drainage is to identify the areas of greatest stagnation of water. In these places, water intake wells are dug or containers dug into the ground to collect water. The water that accumulates there can be used to water garden crops in the future. The most water collects in the following places:

at the lowest point of the site;
in areas with a flat surface - for example, in front of the porch;
in depressions on the surface of the earth.

In the case where water accumulates at the border of the site, a ditch is dug to drain the water beyond its territory. If the place with excess soil moisture is located in the depths of the site, then a drainage well is dug.

Laying the ditch system

This method of reclamation is also used in clay soil conditions. In this case, a network of drainage ditches is created throughout the area. Water collected from the entire territory is drained through ditches into a catchment well. The drainage ditches system is constructed in accordance with a previously developed scheme.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
To ensure high-quality drainage, when digging ditches, a slope in the direction of the drainage basin must be maintained. If there is a natural slope, the bottom of the trench is made parallel to the earth's surface. If the ground surface on the site is horizontal, then it is necessary to make an artificial slope. Otherwise, water will stagnate in the ditches.

The number of drainage ditches is set in accordance with the level of soil moisture. The more clay the soil contains, the more trenches need to be dug. The minimum depth of the ditch should be fifty centimeters. The width of the trench is determined by the distance from the water intake. The maximum width should be the ditch into which water flows from the entire network and which directly flows into the reservoir.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
Once the trench network has been dug, it must be tested. To do this, you need to artificially run a stream of water through it. In places where this flow is delayed, the slope of the ditch should be increased.

How does closed drainage work?

A closed drainage system can be pipe or reservoir. A pipe drainage system consists of pipes laid in the ground at a certain depth, the value of which is determined by the density of the soil. The looser the soil, the deeper the pipes must be laid. For creating closed drainage special perforated pipes are used, into the holes of which water penetrates from the soil, which then flows through the system into a drainage basin, drainage tunnel, or stormwater well.

Due to the fact that laying closed drainage is much more expensive than creating open system, this method of reclamation justifies itself only when the groundwater boundary is closer than 2.5 meters from the surface of the earth.

Reservoir drainage is a filter bed made of crushed stone, which is laid at the base of the building.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
In areas with a rainy climate and frequent downpours, it is necessary to equip combined option drainage - a combination of a deep drainage system with storm water. You can create either one or one consisting of ditches.

Accessories for drainage systems

Before installing a drainage system, you need to decide on its type. The correct choice of drainage type is determined by the specific local conditions. When the type of drainage system is chosen, you must first develop a plan, establish what materials and in what quantities are needed for this, and calculate the construction estimate.

Materials needed for drainage construction open type, depend on which trench option will be chosen - backfill or tray. For backfill ditches you will need small and large crushed stone, as well as geotextiles.

Trench trenches are more effective for drainage. For their construction, ready-made trays are used, the material for which can be:

concrete;
concrete with polymer filler;
plastic.

The best option is plastic trays, which weigh little and, at the same time, are quite durable.

When constructing a closed type drainage, you will need special pipes, geotextiles and crushed stone.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
The use of geotextiles in the construction of a drainage system is highly desirable - this material allows only water to pass through and retains solid particles. Thus, it prevents the drainage from gradually filling with silt.

Regardless of what kind of drainage system is being built, open or closed, to carry out the work you need to acquire a level and a laser rangefinder, which are needed to study the topography of the site and draw up a correct plan for the system. In order to maintain the required slope when digging trenches and laying pipes, you will need a level. These tools can only be dispensed with when constructing local catch basins.

Do-it-yourself drainage on the site video

The procedure for performing work during the construction of drainage systems

In order to successfully build drainage on a summer cottage, you need to be guided by the following general considerations:

The construction of a closed drainage system requires a large volume earthworks. In this regard, it is necessary to build drainage even before trees are planted on the site, and even better - before the foundation of the buildings is laid.
Before work begins, a detailed plan of the system must be drawn up. To do this, it is necessary to study the terrain, determine the highest and lowest points on the site, and set the value of the required slope.
When designing a closed system, inspection wells should be included in the plan to ensure the possibility of servicing the drainage system.
When laying a drainage pipeline, the recommended slope is from two to ten millimeters per meter of pipe.

How to build an open drainage system

Construction of an open drainage system is a much easier task than laying a closed drainage system, since it does not require digging deep trenches. When laying a network of trenches, a plan for their location is first drawn up. Then trenches are dug. Typically, the main ditches are laid along the perimeter of the site, and auxiliary ditches - from the places of greatest accumulation of water. In this case, the depth of the trench should be from fifty to seventy centimeters, the width should be about half a meter. Auxiliary trenches should slope towards the main ditches, and the main trenches should slope towards the drainage basin. The walls of the trench should not be vertical, but beveled. The angle of inclination should be from twenty-five to thirty degrees.

The further progress of work depends on what kind of system is being built, backfill or tray. When constructing a backfill system, the ditch is first filled with crushed stone - coarse to 2 thirds of the depth, and then fine. Turf is laid on top of the crushed stone. To prevent silting of crushed stone, it is advisable to cover it with geotextiles.

The construction of a tray drainage includes the following steps:

Laying trenches while maintaining the required slope.
Pour a ten-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom of the ditches, which must then be compacted tightly.
Installation of trays and sand traps, which are plastic parts that prevent sand and debris from entering the drainage, and thereby protect the system from silting.
Covering the ditches at the top with gratings, which prevent clogging of the trenches with fallen leaves and various debris, and also serve an aesthetic function.

How to build a closed drainage

The construction of a closed drainage system consists of the following steps:

Studying the topography of the site using a level and a laser range finder, and constructing a drainage network plan. If surveying instruments are not available, then you should wait for heavy rain and observe the movement of rainwater flows.
Laying trenches for the drainage pipeline.
Filling the bottom of the trenches with a layer of sand seven to ten centimeters thick, followed by compaction.
Laying geotextiles in the trench, with the edges of the fabric protruding beyond the sides of the ditch.
Laying a twenty-centimeter layer of crushed stone on top of the geotextile, serving as a filter. In this case, limestone crushed stone should not be used, as this may result in the formation of a salt marsh.
Laying pipes on a layer of crushed stone. In this case, their holes should be directed downwards.
Sprinkling crushed stone over the pipes and covering it on top with the edges of a geotextile fabric, which will filter water from suspended particles, thereby preventing siltation of the system.
Filling ditches with soil over which turf can be laid.

The drainage system should end with a well for collecting water, which must be dug at the lowest point of the site. From this well, water can be discharged into a natural reservoir, into a ravine, or into a general storm drain, if there is one in a given locality.

A properly constructed drainage system will prevent problems associated with excessive dampness, which is why its construction is mandatory in areas with wet soil. And those dacha owners who are not confident that they can cope with the construction of drainage on their own should contact specialists and pay the required amount, but should not try to save on such an important functional element of their dacha as drainage.

Well, that's all, guys - I hope I was able to answer your question: " How to make drainage on a site with your own hands". Good luck to everyone!

If excess water collects on your site, you need to take some measures to drain it. Otherwise, you will not only lose the opportunity to create lush flower beds and a garden, but also expose the foundation of your home to danger. Installing a drainage system in such a situation is an excellent solution, and this article will tell you how to bring this idea to life, saving not only on materials, but also on time.

Drainage preparation

Before installing drainage in your dacha with your own hands, you need to clearly understand what you want to achieve and what kind of result you want to see. Therefore, having a clear picture of the future system before your eyes is very important.

Take measurements of your site and decide at what depth you will lay the drainage (the depth will depend on the height of the drainage “well”, since it will be higher than other structural elements).

Traditional French drainage is a trench filled with gravel, which is separated from the ground by geofabric (it is needed so that the earth does not mix with the gravel, it also allows water to pass through well and does not allow weeds to germinate). Gravel and geotextile allow moisture to be absorbed into the soil faster, distributing it throughout the area where they are located, rather than collecting in one place. When arranging such drainage, they are often used corrugated pipes with longitudinal holes on one side, for example made of PVC.

As a drainage “well”, which should be located at the end of the system, you can take a 200 liter plastic drum (barrel) with holes in the walls and bottom. It is located on a bed of gravel 8-10 cm thick, and a wall is “built” around it, also made of gravel 15 cm thick.

Holes should be made in the 200 liter drum (top). They will serve as additional slots for water to enter, and one of them will become the location for installing the second drain grate, which will be discussed later. Two or three 5 cm holes will be enough. It is also necessary to make one large hole on the top wall for the pipe (see photo).

Another element is a drainage tank. Its width should be about 30x30cm. It is advisable that it be equipped with a drain grate, especially if the French drain is provided with a downspout. By connecting the pipe to the reservoir, you ensure that clean water enters the system (without sludge or other debris that can pass through the grate).

In order to make drainage with your own hands, you don’t need to spend a lot. The most expensive thing you will buy will most likely be a catch basin, and the cheapest one will be a pipe. As for gravel, you will need about 2 m3 (1-2 cm granules). You will also need geofabric.

Digging a trench

Dig a trench with a “well” and a reservoir on either side. In the place for the first, the hole should be 10-15 cm deeper than in other parts of the trench.

Calculate the depth depending on the height of the drainage “well” (after installing it and filling it with gravel, there should be no more than 15 cm between the second and the surface of the earth).

Preparing the drainage “well”

Use a 2-3cm drill bit to turn the sides and bottom of the well into Swiss cheese.

And on the wall on top, cut a hole of a size suitable for the diameter of the pipe, and also install a base for its fastening.

Filling the trench

Line the trench with geofabric for drainage.

This will prevent silt and dirt from getting in and mixing with the gravel. It will also ensure better absorption of moisture by the soil. An 8-10 cm gravel bed should be made only in the place where the 200 liter barrel will be placed.

Install it. Sprinkle some gravel around. Make sure the barrel is not moving.

The top of the reservoir should be placed at ground level - just below the asphalt, so if necessary (if you need to raise the reservoir a little), you can install it on a thin bed of gravel.

Place gravel around it, making sure it is immobilized.

Connect the drainage “well” and the water collector to the pipe. Remember, the holes in the pipe should point downwards, and the pipe itself should be on a slope. Fill the trench with gravel, as shown in the photo, until 15 cm remains between the surface of the earth and the gravel. Then install the drain grate on the barrel.

At this point, the drainage on the dacha plot is not completed. Wrap the geofabric so that the end on one side lies on the other - lying opposite, overlapping.

Backfilling with earth

Filling the hole with earth is the final stage. You can also put already sprouted lawn grass in this place.

Now you know how to make drainage with your own hands in just a week or even faster, without spending a lot of effort and money. In a similar way, you can make your own drainage around the house.

Do-it-yourself drainage on the site: photo, video instructions

How to make drainage with your own hands? See photos and videos of creating drainage on the site with your own hands. On our website you will learn everything about the drainage system at home. How to make drainage around your house yourself? Drainage system diagram.

Drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture

Drainage in a summer cottage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. The easiest way to improve the water balance of the soil must be mandatory, because the moisture ratio in different periods years may change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

A simple system for draining water from a building

Open and closed channels

Soil drainage can be carried out using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed channels that do not interfere with the attractiveness of the landscape.

Open drainage around a residential building using trays and grates

Surface lines

Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to a central drain or drain well. The advantages include:

high construction speed;
low costs;
sufficient level of efficiency;
ease of cleaning.

Drainage trench at the edge of a suburban area

Closed drainage systems

Systems with deep lines are ideal for draining both stormwater and groundwater located in the immediate vicinity. Most often, they are arranged using polymer pipes that are immersed in the ground at a certain distance.

Closed piping system designed for point moisture collection

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

point (water collection occurs in one place);
linear (moisture collection is ensured throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within one site, the presented species can be combined. For example, for drainage system At home, you can use point collection, and for groundwater - linear.

Drainage well for a deep system made of a pipe with a large diameter

Drainage in a summer cottage: the simplest method of installation for specific conditions

Before making a drainage system on a site, it is necessary to select its type based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for installing water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

A drainage system is being created from the foundation of the house.

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

If groundwater is close to the groundwater level, a deep linear system may be the best option. It will drain moisture from the entire area into a drainage well, ravine or ditch located a level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in a geotextile filter as the main elements.

Special pipeline with perforation and geotextile

One of the most simple ways drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:

A trench is dug to the distance where the soil freezes. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. A layer of sand is poured for leveling.
Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again filled with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile are rolled up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is filled with soil.

Visual diagram of closed drainage with linear collection

At high groundwater levels, the drainage system takes on a tree-like appearance

Septic tank for a dacha with high groundwater level. IN separate material information is provided on the design of septic tanks at high groundwater levels, installation and operating rules.

Installation of open drainage with your own hands on an area with clay soil

For land with clay soil, a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. At closed system pipelines, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go into specialized sedimentation tanks or other suitable places.

Excavation work is underway to construct a drainage system

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the receiving site. It is necessary to make the widest trench that collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Because open view trenches spoil the appearance of the site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only improves aesthetic properties, but also strengthens side surfaces open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system increases significantly.

Decoration process open channels stone

Stones of different sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should be placed on the bottom, and the medium and small ones should be placed on top. If you have good financial resources, the surface can be covered marble chips, which will give the branch lines a respectable appearance.

If money is tight, then not a bad option Ordinary brushwood can be used for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and placed on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

Lines in the invisible part of the site can be strengthened with ordinary slate

The thickness of the bundles of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Drainage system around the house. Drainage arrangement, nuances of installation work and useful recommendations in a special publication of our online magazine.

Average prices for turnkey plot drainage

Many companies offer professional services on the construction of drainage systems, but they are not so cheap. During the work, a double-wall pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

The pipeline is connected to a plastic well

Drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to drain water

Drainage in a summer cottage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. We will examine the simplest method and why it is so important in detail in this review.

Do-it-yourself site drainage: technology for constructing deep and surface options

A lot of troubles for owners of dachas and suburban areas brings excess humidity. The first signs of the phenomenon are stagnant puddles, which can “delight” with their existence for several days, or even weeks. If you can put up with them, then other manifestations of high humidity: soaking of plants and trees on the site, destruction of the foundations of buildings, are far from so harmless. If the land is located in a lowland or the groundwater level is high, do not despair; you need to drain the site yourself.

To remove excess moisture, a drainage system is used, which can be done in two ways. There are superficial and deep drainage. The first is used to drain water from the territory that accumulates after seasonal floods or heavy rainfall.

The second is designed to reduce soil moisture by draining groundwater. In general, the type of drainage is selected depending on the condition of the site and the requirements of its owner. Despite the significant differences between the types of drainage, each of them can be performed independently.

Design and construction of surface drainage

Surface drainage systems can be of two types: linear and point. The latter are intended to drain water from small isolated areas on the territory. Special point drainage water intakes are placed in places where water accumulates. These can be areas under drains, at the bottom of terraces, in depressions in the relief, at entrance areas, etc. This system is considered the simplest and does not require a special diagram.

Point drainage water intakes are located in places where water accumulates

Linear drainage is more difficult to design and install. It is used to remove moisture from buildings, protect paths and entrances from water, prevent the washout of the fertile soil layer on the site, etc. The structure is a specially designed system of shallow trenches laid at a certain angle, which runs along the perimeter of the site and in places of maximum water accumulation.

Before starting work, a drainage project for the site is drawn up, which involves the presence of a main trench to collect moisture flowing into the ditches. It should end in a water intake, which can be a storm drain or a ravine. During the design process, it is necessary to consider all places where moisture stagnates and lay trenches from them to the main drainage system.

It is also necessary to correctly calculate the slope of the structures, otherwise water will not flow down them. The minimum slope of drains in sandy soils should be no less than 0.003, in clayey soils - 0.002. The water intake must be located below the level of linear drainage. Practice shows that the best result is obtained with a slope ranging from 0.005 to 0.01. To arrange the surface drainage of a site with your own hands, you can use two methods:

Open. Assumes the presence of open trenches dug according to the drainage pattern. The walls of the structures are usually formed at an angle of 30°, which allows water to flow into the ditch without problems. The width of the structure is 0.5 m and the depth is 0.7 m. The main advantage of the system is its simplicity of implementation. A serious drawback is the unaesthetic appearance, which spoils the impression of the site. In addition, the unreinforced walls of the trench quickly crumble and the structure becomes unusable.

Crushed stone filling prevents the destruction of the trench, but at the same time reduces it throughput

Important: To solve the problem of crumbling walls of the drainage trench, crushed stone filling can be used. To do this, the lower part of the groove is filled with coarse crushed stone, and the upper part with smaller fractions. The top of the structure can be covered with turf. Such a drainage arrangement on the site helps prevent soil sliding and preserve the trench, but at the same time seriously reduces its throughput.

Closed. It consists of using special drainage trays, which are placed directly in the trenches and covered with gratings on top. The structures protect the grooves from soil sliding, and the gratings prevent debris from getting inside the drainage structure. Trays can be concrete, polymer concrete or plastic, which are considered the most popular today due to their light weight and exceptional durability.

The grid covering the tray can be made of metal or plastic

Deep drainage system: subtleties of design and installation

Deep drainage is designed to reduce soil moisture. For the system to work effectively, it must be located below the groundwater level. Determining it will definitely require the help of a specialist, since it is impossible to do this on your own. Must be ordered to surveyors detailed plan area where the aquifer level should be marked, which will allow the structure to be accurately designed.

It happens that a drainage system on a site is needed only to ensure the vital activity of plants suffering from excess moisture. In this case, you can use a simplified calculation option. To determine the depth of drains, average values are used. Pipes can be located at a level of 0.6 to 1.5 m. You need to know that for fruit trees it will be 1.5, for forest trees - 0.9, for lawns, flower beds and flower beds - about 0.9 m. In areas with peat soils, it is necessary to equip deeper trenches, since such soils settle very quickly. The depth of laying drains will vary from 1 to 1.6 m.

To arrange the drainage system, special perforated pipes are used. Initially, asbestos-cement or ceramic structures were used, which today have given way to plastic ones. Drains are pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, equipped with a network of holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Some models may be equipped with a special filter shell that prevents debris from entering the openings. Plastic pipes are durable, lightweight, and very easy to install.

In order to arrange deep drainage of a summer cottage with your own hands, you should first of all draw up a project that will reflect the depth of the drainage pipes and show where they will pass. As in the case of a surface drainage system, it is assumed that there is a main trench that collects moisture from all secondary pipes and ends in a water intake: a drainage ditch, a reservoir or a special storage well.

Perforated pipes for deep drainage are laid on a bed of sand and crushed stone

There are several stages in the process of installing a drainage system:

Trench equipment. In the places marked in the project, we dig channels about 40 cm wide. The depth of the structure can be different, it depends on the groundwater level. A sand cushion is laid out at the bottom, and a layer of crushed stone is placed on top of it, on top of which a drainage pipe is placed. In some cases, it can be wrapped with geotextile to protect the holes from possible clogging.

necessary cleaning

Wells are located in places where the trench turns and every 35-50 m on a straight line

Backfilling of the structure. The drain is covered with layers of crushed stone and sand. Some manuals explaining how to drain a site suggest separating sand from crushed stone with geotextiles to prevent them from mixing. The laid pipe together with the crushed stone-sand cushion should not occupy more than half the height of the trench. The remaining space is filled with compacted loam and a top layer of fertile soil. Ideally, the area under which the drainage pipes are located should not be highlighted.

When thinking about how to make drainage on a site, you need to know that this work can be done independently. The main thing is to determine the type of system that is needed to drain the soil, carry out a competent design and correctly install the structure. Then it will be possible to forget forever about the troubles caused by excess moisture on the site.

Do-it-yourself site drainage - step-by-step technology devices

Everything about do-it-yourself site drainage - types of drainage systems, their design, arrangement and stages of installation of a deep system and surface drainage. Video with examples of work.

How to properly drain a garden plot with your own hands: we analyze the correct technology for arrangement

Some owners of private houses and garden plots are faced with the problem of ground flooding as a result of precipitation or exposure to groundwater. To avoid such a situation, a drainage system is installed throughout the entire area to absorb and remove excess moisture.

Make drainage garden plot Anyone can do it with their own hands without much expense.

Prerequisites for the construction of a drainage system

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
Groundwater is noted at a level close to the earth's surface.
The site is located in a lowland, river valley or drained swamp area.
The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
The dacha was built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with underlying clay soils: sandy loam, loam. During periods of heavy rainfall and snow melting, this type of rock allows water to pass through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Stagnation of water at the level of soil development is associated with waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively multiplies, infections and pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases of vegetable crops, rotting of the roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

If the problem of waterlogging of the soil is not addressed, erosion of the soil may occur over time. In frosty weather, soil layers containing water will swell, which can cause damage to the foundation, paved paths and other landscaping facilities.

To check whether drainage is necessary, you need to find out the throughput of the soil layers on the site. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the maximum.

If the water is absorbed within a day, then the underlying soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not go away, it means that clay rocks lie under the soil and plant layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

If a drainage system is not implemented in a timely manner, the following problems threaten country properties:

flooding of cellars, ground floors, additional buildings located below ground level - this subsequently leads to damage wall materials, the formation of mold and fungi, rotting of furniture, stairs and other wooden structures;
waterlogging of the soil due to its saturation with moisture, which leads to low yields, rotting of the roots of vegetable crops, plants, death of trees and other plantings;
Dips, depressions, and pits may form on the site, resulting in the destruction of paved paths and tiles - all this negatively affects the landscape of the garden area.

In winter, when the PRS and the underlying heaving soils, lying above the seasonal freezing level, freeze, the water contained in the pores of the earth will expand. An increase in the volume of soil threatens the destruction of structures buried in it and resting on the ground.

Let's look at the types of drainage systems and their features.

Main types of drainage systems

Before you start drawing up a work plan, purchasing equipment and materials, you need to determine which system is appropriate to implement so that it works as efficiently as possible.

There are three types of drainage systems:

surface (open) - is a ditch on the surface of the earth, used to remove excess moisture formed due to partial rains or melting snow;
deep (closed) - water is drained using a system of pipes and wells; the system is used in case of risk of flooding of the garden by precipitation and/or groundwater;
backfill - the principle of its construction is the same as deep, only drainage material without pipes is used; Suitable for drying areas during precipitation.

Each of the above technologies has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The surface drainage network is often combined with storm sewers that collect and drain atmospheric precipitation. Storm drains are equipped with two types of water collectors: point and linear.

Stormwater as an addition to drainage

Storm sewer is a set of drainage pipes with a well for storing moisture, through which it is transferred to the water intake. Before the water enters the well, there is a special siphon partition (grid) designed to clean the incoming liquid from debris, as a result of which the system does not become clogged and an unpleasant odor does not appear in it.

Stormwater sewer system with linear type water collectors, it is a series of trays located at a slope towards the place where moisture is collected. The containers are placed in ditches with a layer of gravel at the bottom. The technology is used when the slope of the daytime surface of the site does not exceed 30 degrees relative to the horizon.

The main difference between a point system and a linear system is that a point system uses a pipe system located underground. Water is collected through so-called “points” - special storm drains equipped with a permeable grid. This solution makes the structure almost invisible on the site.

Sometimes one type of system is not enough for an area, so they can be combined to maintain optimal moisture levels.

The type of system must be selected individually, taking into account landscape and geological features. For example, if the house is located far from a reservoir, then you can limit yourself to open drainage. If the mansion is located on a landslide-prone slope in a river valley, then it is better to use several systems at the same time.

Closed drainage device

A closed system is a network of trenches in which pipes and drainage material are laid. Drainage can be laid both over the entire area and in a specific area that requires drainage.

The deep drainage system consists of the following elements:

drainage pipes;
well (drainage);
pump for pumping water.

To implement the system, it is necessary to dig trenches, install pipes, and construct drainage systems.

To install a water supply system in a trench you will need:

The system is effectively used in case of flooding of the site with groundwater.

Drawing up a diagram of the arrangement of elements

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to draw up a site plan, noting residential, domestic and commercial objects, as well as shrubs, trees, and flower beds.

Then you need to draw up a diagram of the location of the trenches. There are 4 main types of schemes:

snake arrangement;
parallel device;
laying drains in a herringbone pattern;
trapezoidal position.

You can choose the pattern yourself, but most often the herringbone marking is used.

Ditches can be located around the perimeter of the territory and along the contour of the house. In the area where they will grow vegetable crops, flowers, the network is built taking into account the requirements, which will be discussed below.

Technical requirements for installation

When building a trench, the following requirements must be taken into account:

the depth should be 1-1.2 m, and the width should be 35-40 cm;
Near trees, a trench is dug to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m, near forest plantations - 70-90 cm, near flower beds - 60-80 cm;
if peat soil predominates at the PRS level of the site, then, given that it shrinks quickly, the depth of the trench should not be less than a meter;
if the area is relief, then the depth can reach a meter; if it is flat or with a slight slope, then digging a trench less than 1.5 m deep is ineffective;
on clayey soils: sandy loam, loam, trenches are dug at a distance of 7-10 m from each other, on well-drained soils: sand, gravel and crushed stone deposits - at 15-20 m;
The drainage system should be located further than 1 meter from the foundation of the house, and the minimum permissible distance to the fence is 50 cm.

To construct an open drainage system, you should select special pipes with a mesh. Their diameter can vary from 0.15 to 0.5 cm. It is better to avoid using asbestos-cement or ceramic drains, since they are impractical, require preliminary preparation, frequent washing, and quickly become clogged.

For the installation of closed drainage branches, it is recommended to give preference to perforated pipes made of polymer or composite materials. Some modifications are equipped with a special filter shell (geotextile), which prevents clogging of the system.

The diameter of the collector must be greater than the diameter of the pipe. If the area of the site being developed is more than 0.5 hectares, then the diameters can be equal.

The slope of the system towards the collector should be 2-3 mm for each meter of pipe with a diameter of 5-10 cm. If it is planned to use a pipe of a larger diameter, then the slope should be less.

Owners of land in a lowland or on a steep slope are faced with a problem when water stagnates in the lowest place, when the water intake may be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well into which a drainage pump must be installed. With its help, water is pumped upward and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

Work progress during the construction of the system

The first thing you need to do before digging a trench is to build a drainage well. Its depth should be 2-3 m, and its diameter should be up to 1 meter.

The most reliable well is a concrete one. However, it is not always possible to install concrete rings manually, so you will have to resort to the help of lifting equipment. In addition, high cost and fragility are disadvantages of concrete structures.

A plastic well is a special design made of polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride, which is practical and of high quality and effectively withstands soil pressure. The advantage of a reservoir well is that it has pipe bends, and the kit comes with rubber cuffs that ensure tight connections.

You can also pave a brick well yourself, make a structure from rubber and other available materials.

A drainage pump is subsequently installed in the well, which pumps water into a drainage system - sewer, well or other natural water intake.

To protect against clogging of conventional plastic pipes They use so-called “external” filters made from straw, fibrous peat, and weaving waste.

After digging trenches, perform the following steps.

Fill the trench with 10 cm of sand, after which a layer of geotextile is laid so that the edges of the fabric are higher than the recess.
Cover the geotextile with crushed stone to a depth of 20 cm.
Drainage pipes are laid.
The pipes are covered with gravel or crushed stone of sedimentary rocks to a height of 30-40 cm, then with coarse or gravelly sand to a height of 30 cm.
Roll up the geotextile - it will retain small particles and allow the system to clog.
Geotextiles are sprinkled on top with a fertile layer of earth - soil.
The pipes are connected to the well.

The technology for constructing a backfill drainage system differs from a deep drainage system in that it does not include pipes. The trenches are filled with coarse crushed stone or broken brick, cover it with small stones or gravel.

Open Circuit Implementation

To create surface systems, the same rules for constructing a trench are used as for implementing deep ones.

For an open system, it is enough to build ditches 0.7 m deep and 0.5 m thick. The walls are made with a slope, the bevel angle is 30 degrees. The ditch is drained into a drainage well, which is common to the plots, or into any other water intake.

The walls of open drainage ditches are compacted, sometimes reinforced with cobblestones or rubble stones, and lined with concrete tiles.

Extending drain life

A backfill type drainage system can function effectively for 5-7 years, while deep and open drainage structures with high-quality pipes allow you to forget about the problem of waterlogging for 50 years. But this is possible subject to periodic network maintenance.

There are 4 rules for caring for the system.

Large equipment should not pass through the area where the pipes are located - the road for it should be paved separately.
Regular loosening of the soil will improve its water permeability, which will ensure good operation of the system.
Once every 2-3 years, the pipes should be washed under high pressure of water, cleaning them from particles of clay and rust.
Excavation work for installation should be carried out on damp ground.

Carrying out simple tips, you can extend the life of the equipment and avoid repairs.

Installing drainage into the ground saves owners of acres of land from many problems. By installing a drainage system, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the crops or the general appearance of the area when humidity rises.

Do-it-yourself garden drainage: options and technology

How to make drainage for a garden plot with your own hands, what drainage system to choose, how to implement it in practice. Useful tips, diagrams, expert recommendations.

Modern development of land plots begins with the creation of a drainage system, which is reliable protection from excess water, moisture, dampness. Hiring specialists for this purpose is considered very expensive, although necessary. However, the entire process of installing drainage can be done with your own hands. How to choose the right equipment? What types of drainage are there? And what are their features? Read about these and many other nuances of the drainage system further in the article.

Choosing a system for drainage of a site with your own hands

Many owners ignore the installation of a drainage system, but subsequently encounter problems such as:

flooded basements;
damp walls in the house;
foundation destruction;
swamp in the yard;
destruction of landscape territory;
supra-dimensional accumulation of sediments, etc.

But before you get serious about creating and installing drainage, you need to examine the one intended for work. land plot, and clarify:

groundwater level;
geological properties of the territory;
determine the chemical state of groundwater, whether it is pressurized or not;
identify the physical characteristics of the dominant soils, whether they have filtration properties.

Based on the research results obtained, you need to choose the most suitable type of drainage system.

Types of drainage system

Conventionally, the drainage system is divided into two types - surface and deep, which in turn have derivative subtypes. So, surface drainage is the most budget-friendly, simplest option, which is used even in areas with slopes. This type intended for drainage of water flowing from buildings and roofs. In turn, it can be linear and point. To improve system productivity, these two types are combined harmoniously.

The linear drainage system consists of special trays that are placed in earthen pits dug around the perimeter. This device should be located with a slope towards the drainage well. The upper part of this structure is covered with gratings. They do not interfere with the movement of either people or transport. Linear drainage is capable of passing a large volume of water, while one of the disadvantages of such equipment is considered to be an unattractive appearance.

A point drainage system is used in specific places where excess water is most often required to be collected. The main task of such equipment is considered to be the redirection of sediment to a common sewer pit. This type of drainage can function as a separate part of the system, or be an addition to any other type of drainage. Do-it-yourself closed and open drainage channels are installed in areas with high level groundwater, and in areas where clay soil predominates.

The deep drainage system is designed to lower the groundwater level, as well as to neutralize excess moisture in the soil after heavy, prolonged rains. This drainage device is divided into types according to design features. Read more about the types of deep drainage in the table.

Types of deep drainage
Horizontal	A fairly common type of drainage, which consists of perforated pipes laid to a depth of 1 - 1.5 m, and is characterized by a simple installation process. According to the design, wastewater in such an installation is collected along the entire length of the trays and moves towards the collector at an angle. The lower part of the horizontal ditches is formed from crushed stone, which is pre-wrapped with geotextile fiber.
Vertical	This type of drainage consists of some kind of earthen mines, which are equipped with special drainage stations with pumps. Vertical drainage is a rather complex structure, which consists of complex calculations and requires special skills in operation, so non-professionals rarely turn to this type.
Combined	The combination of horizontal and vertical drainage, as practice shows, brings good results. However, the construction of this type of installation requires specialized engineering intervention and considerable financial costs, so such structures are extremely rare in suburban areas.

Features of storm drainage system

A storm drainage system is a device that allows you to insure any buildings against destruction due to the erosion of the foundation by excessive precipitation. The design of the storm drain consists of:

drainpipes;
water intakes;
drainage gutters;
linear drainage trays.

The main condition for creating this system is to ensure a slope when forming drainage lines, due to which water will move under a natural emphasis to collection points and water intakes. Places for installation of stormwater equipment can be garden paths, the entire perimeter of the yard, the entrance to the garage, etc.

Before you begin installing a drainage system, you need to draw up a plan for the yard and buildings, on the basis of which you can calculate the amount required material. In order to form storm system For drainage on the site, owners need to prepare:

trays that are intended for installation along the perimeter of the foundation;
spacers that are installed around gutters;
storm water inlets;
pipes with fittings for external sewerage;
geotextile material;
sand catchers;
concrete solution.
crushed stone, sand.

Construction tools should include a level and tape measure, a shovel, rope and fittings for marking the site, a container for preparing mortar, and a bucket. Let's consider one of the options for creating a linear storm drain with your own hands, without inspection wells.

Channels are dug around the house; the distance from the foundation to them should be more than 50 cm. The depth of the dug pit varies in relation to the size of the gutter. Over time, installed trays may lose shape under the influence of soil; to prevent this from happening, you need to organize a sand cushion at the bottom of the ditch or make a concrete base. The gutters laid in trenches are connected to each other with special fastenings and locks, and the edges are fixed with plugs. All gaps between the walls of the pit and the trays must be filled with crushed stone.

Features of do-it-yourself point drainage on the site

Installing a point drainage system on a site with your own hands does not require special skills or various plans. This is a fairly simple device, which consists of:

storm water inlets;
storm flaps;
settling tanks;
ladders;
water pipelines.

The main task of such equipment is to drain excess water from specific, small areas, such as door pits, areas under a watering tap, etc. Collected water into point devices underground pipes moves into the storm drain.

DIY surface drainage system

Device surface system drainage is a network of connected pipes laid throughout the entire territory of a particular area that requires regular drainage. Drainage wells are placed at the intersections of the system, as well as at turns, with which you can monitor the operating condition of the entire system. Water collected in collectors can be pumped out using special pumps, and also used for economic purposes, for example, for organizing irrigation.

Ready-made pipes with holes of 1.5 - 5 mm are intended for collecting water. These polymeric materials are intended for laying in the soil to a depth of 2-5 meters. To install a drainage system near wells and in the center, it is better to use pipes with a larger diameter, since in these places the water pressure is stronger and its volume is much larger.

At the installation stage, drains Special attention worth paying attention to backfilling. It is advisable to use crushed stone without known impurities and coarse sand. To prevent rapid siltation of pipes, professionals recommend laying already washed, cleaned crushed stone. According to the rules for installing a drainage system, geotextile fiber is laid on the sand layer. It is also worth remembering that the process of creating a drainage system must begin from the lowlands, gradually moving up the site.

Do-it-yourself types of surface drainage with a high groundwater level

Installation of a drainage system is imperative in places where groundwater lies closely. It allows you to organize an acceptable microclimate in such areas, easily grow any plant crops, reduce the number of mosquitoes, and will also reduce the spread of mold and fungal diseases. To combat high groundwater levels near the house, you can use surface drainage of both ring and wall types.

Ring drainage is a reliable solution for regulating groundwater levels. It is a closed-type equipment that is installed significantly below the constant level of underground flows. This system can be made in the shape of a circle or a semicircle and cover not only small plot around one house, and also the territory on which several buildings are located. The process of creating a ring drainage system is quite possible to do with your own hands, without the support of specialists. The only point that requires the intervention of professionals is planning, since when making calculations you need to be extremely careful with the depth of trenches and the installation of drains.

As for water drainage, this point can be organized in two ways:

the water outflow moves into the general storm sewer;
the water flows into specially installed drainage wells.

The ring drainage system requires cleaning; it is enough to do this once every few years, using a strong pressure of clean water, which is supplied through inspection vessels.

Types and features of drainage in an area with clay soil

In areas with clay soil, it is recommended to install deep drainage, namely the layer type, because this type of soil does not conduct moisture well. The whole process of working on its creation requires a lot of time and cash costs. In addition, it is very important to carry out all work before construction begins. Step-by-step instruction installation of reservoir drainage on clay soil as follows.

Step 1. On preparatory stage are being prepared necessary tools and materials for installing drainage yourself. This series includes:

level and tape measure;
shovels for digging pits;
pegs and tape for marking the area;
Bulgarian;
pipes with holes;
geotextile fiber;
butt elements;
wells and parts for their assembly and installation, etc.

Step 2. An area for digging trenches is marked, the lower part of which should be at least 20 cm lower than the heel level.

Step 3. The bottom of the dug ditches is laid with sand and crushed stone and compacted. They contain perforated pipes, which must be wrapped in several layers of geotextile fiber.

Step 4. After connecting all the components and installing drainage wells, all finished trenches are filled with excavated earth. The main condition for the installation of such a system is the correctly selected depth, since professionals say that all parts should be located above the clay layer of soil.

No less common in clayey areas is surface drainage. It can be organized as sand cushion, and in tray style. This type of drainage system must be equipped in the direction of the drainage well and maintain the required level of slope. The width of the trenches for the system can vary from 30 cm or more, and the depth is around 50 cm, depending on the size of the prepared gutters. In areas with uneven terrain, where a natural slope is visible, there is no need to additionally add a height difference.

For more information on how to make a drainage system with your own hands, watch the video: