Thinners oil paints They are used mainly for thinning (thinning) oil paints, although manufacturers write that they can also be used for washing brushes and cleaning the palette, which from my point of view is simply wasteful. The palette can be washed with cheaper thinners purchased at a hardware store, and brushes can be washed with just laundry soap and warm water. The main thing is not to let them dry - when you finish working, wash them immediately. However, in this matter, the artist himself decides how to wash his favorite brushes.

I am a fan of the St. Petersburg art paints factory “Nevskaya Palitra” (hereinafter simply “ZHK”), whose paints I found to be the best among domestic ones, and therefore I mainly use its thinners. But sometimes I also buy some thinners from the Novosibirsk manufacturer, Experimental Workshop of Art Technologies LLC (hereinafter simply EMTI).

I want to warn you: I’m talking about thinners, not solvents. At first glance, there is no difference between them - they both thin the paint. However, the thinner simply reduces the viscosity of the paint without disturbing its structure, and after drying it evaporates, leaving the paint in its original form. To put it simply, thinner simply makes the paint "smear" easier, but other than that it makes no difference whether you used thinner or not. By the way, I almost never use thinners now, although they used to leave me with bubbles.

But the solvent interferes with the structure of the paint, dissolving its film-forming substances, that is, oil, and after it dries you get a modified paint, the properties of which may differ dramatically from those declared. For example, it can delaminate and crumble. In addition, the solvent is able to dissolve the already dried layer of paint, on top of which you apply a new layer with solvent. So instead of, say, glazing, you will, roughly speaking, get a “raw” painting, as a result of which the glazing paint will mix with the base paint and change both its color and the color of the base, guaranteeing you an unpredictable and, most likely, disastrous result.

Unfortunately, not a single thinner is a thinner in the pure sense of the word: it does not dissolve some substances, but dissolves others. Therefore, the less thinner and the less often you use it, the better. And under no circumstances use a “thinner” purchased not from an art store, but, for example, from a pharmacy. Even if it has a similar name and the same composition, you are still buying a pig in a poke. And one more thing - try to use thinners exclusively from the same manufacturer as the paint being thinned. This will most likely save you from problems, although, for example, the same ZKH warns in its catalog: “ Oil paint thinners are a group of products whose use requires special knowledge».

I won't go into chemical properties thinners, but I’ll just give the thinners for oil paints from the above manufacturers, which I have tested and which can be bought at any art supply store. Let me emphasize again: in an art supply store, not in a hardware store, pharmacy or anywhere else!

Thinner No. 1 (ZHK)

This thinner consists of a mixture of turpentine and white spirit (turpentine is a product of pine resin processing, white spirit is a product of oil refining) in a 1:1 ratio.

If you need to work with paint “wet” for a longer time, then most likely this solvent is what you need. The annotation for it says, “when added to oil paint, it reduces its concentration, makes the paint less saturated and increases drying time.”

It is not suitable for thinning varnish or for cleaning surfaces of varnish, but it does an excellent job of cleaning oil paint from palettes and brushes.

Thinner No. 2 (ZHK)

This thinner is pure white spirit, a product of petroleum refining. Suitable for thinning oil paints, cleaning surfaces, brushes and palettes from oil paint. It should be used with caution - it has a high penetrating ability and can seep onto the back side of the canvas through microcracks in the ground.

Excessive dilution of paints with it can make the paint layer loose and fragile, which can lead to crumbling. It is not suitable for diluting varnishes and cleaning surfaces and brushes from varnish, because it has low dissolving ability.

Please note that when diluting paints with either a mixture of white spirit and turpentine (thinner No. 1) or pure white spirit (thinner No. 2), the paint layer darkens over time. The same applies to the gum turpentine produced by EMTI, mentioned below. Therefore, I recommend using pinene (thinner #4) instead.

Thinner "Tee" (ZHK)

It is often called thinner No. 3. A mixture of dammar varnish, linseed oil and turpentine. Gives shine and bright rich tones. The thinner is used to dilute oil paints, and also as an intermediate layer to enhance the adhesion of paint layers. Do not use brushes or surfaces for cleaning.

Each component of this thinner is a thinner in itself. In addition, since linseed oil can cause shrinkage of the paint layer, especially the intermediate layer, many artists use not a “tee”, but a so-called “double”, which is not available in its pure form. This is dammar varnish mixed with a thinner such as pinene (thinner no. 4).

Thinner No. 4, p inen (ZHK)

Pinene got its name from the Latin name for pine - Pinus. Pinene is a component of turpentine and is obtained by purifying gum turpentine from resinous substances.

Pinene oxidizes much less than turpentine, which is not recommended for use in painting due to its tendency to yellow and tar. Pinene almost does not tar and does not turn yellow.

It dilutes both paints and varnishes well. It evaporates faster than thinner No. 2 (white spirit). Pinene reduces the gloss of paints, so some care must be taken when using it.

Low odor thinner (Sonnet)

Well-cleaned white spirit. Makes paints more transparent, allowing for smooth transitions of tones. Improves paint flow and adhesion of paint layers. Dries quickly and does not turn yellow.

Used for diluting oil paints, washing paints from canvases, washing brushes and palettes. Does not dilute varnishes.

Please note that the lack of odor does not make this thinner less toxic than thinner No. 2, which has a rather strong odor.

Thinner for artistic oil paints (ZHK)

A mixture of bleached refined linseed oil and white spirit with the addition of a drier. Makes paints more transparent and less saturated, allowing smooth transitions of tones.

Reduces drying time for oil paints.

Can be used as a brush and palette cleaner for oil paints. Although, as I already said, it is better to use cheaper solvents for this.

Oil thinner (EMTI)

Similar to the previous thinner for artistic paints produced by ZKH Nevskaya Palitra.

That is, it is the same mixture of bleached refined linseed oil and white spirit with the addition of cobalt drier.

Used to dilute quick-drying oil paints. Increases the drying time of paints both on the palette and on the canvas, allowing the artist to work “wet” longer.

Gum turpentine (EMTI)

Yellowish liquid with a characteristic pine odor. It is obtained by distilling resin coniferous trees) using water vapor. Pine resin contains up to 30% turpentine. Gum turpentine is a completely natural product, so to speak, the “juice” of a pine tree. In the light and in the presence of air, it resinizes, turning into a thick yellow mass, so it should be stored in a well-closed bottle and in a dark place.

Used as a solvent and thinner for oil and alkyd paints, as well as varnishes. In addition, it cleans brushes and palette well.

Refined bleached linseed oil (ZHK)

Used to dilute oil paints. For its production, the plant uses only natural, polymerized, cold-pressed oil. In addition, during its production, the quality of the oil is carefully ensured at all stages of its preparation: pressing, evaporation, bleaching, filtration.

Adding linseed oil to paint gives great benefits: the paint has significantly improved spreadability, adhesion to the blank and underlying layers of paint. Also, the paint becomes less concentrated, more transparent, bright, and shiny.

Slows down the drying time of the paint film. An artist can work “raw” for longer and create glazes.

Flaxseed oil, compacted No. 2 (ZHK)

Used in oil painting as a paint thinner.

The film of this oil is more moisture-resistant and less prone to yellowing than the above-mentioned refined bleached linseed oil.

Dammar varnish (ZHK)

Consists of a solution of dammar resin in pinene or turpentine. Completely natural product.

It is a painting varnish used as a thinner for oil paints, but many artists also use it as a topcoat for finished works. It is also used for fixing intermediate layers and for wiping intermediate layers during layer-by-layer painting, i.e. as a retouching varnish.

Dammar varnish may become cloudy during storage, but after drying (evaporation of pinene) it regains its purity. In addition, during storage, it may thicken, but is easily diluted with pinene.

A painting coated with dammar varnish may darken and turn yellow over time, so it is better to use acrylic-styrene varnish for this purpose, which is also produced by ZHK.

Fir varnish (ZHK)

Consists of a solution of fir resin in pinene or turpentine.

Unlike dammar varnish, this varnish cannot be used as a finishing varnish, since its film dissolves easily even after complete drying.

Therefore, fir varnish is used exclusively for diluting oil paints or applied to intermediate layers of paint to prevent paint fading and enhance the adhesion of paint layers. When added to paint, fir varnish prevents wrinkling and fading, maintaining the brightness and purity of the original color and enhancing the depth of tones.

Well, that seems to be all...

Disclaimer: I do not undertake to judge imported thinners. Their properties are basically similar to domestic ones. In some ways they are (possibly) better, and in some ways even worse. I'm not even talking about possible fakes. If you are a “fan of Western”, you can use them, but I am not your advice on this. There are so many foreign brands of thinners and their manufacturers that it would take a whole book and many months of experimentation to describe them. So see for yourself.

Just try different thinners (based on what I wrote and what you need) until you find yours. This, by the way, also applies to domestic thinners. There is simply no universal, ideal thinner. You must find your favorite yourself. For me, pinene, thinner No. 4 from Nevskaya Palitra, became such a favorite. EMTI also has a thinner with the same number and the same name, but I can’t judge it.

And I repeat again: I usually use thinner only in the first layers of painting, when I do a classical imprimatura. At subsequent stages, I add thinner to the paint only occasionally, since I believe that good paint in its factory form it already has an optimal consistency (viscosity) and does not need dilution. You just need to tinker with the paint a little longer to get exactly the same result as with thinner.

Unless, of course, you are painting something expressive, dripping from the canvas, like in the next video. :)

My advice does not apply to such “artists”...

And I wish the rest success in mastering this important, but very capricious component.

Tatiana Kazakova

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Instructions

In order to make the paint more liquid and return it to the consistency necessary for work, use solvents. Of course, you can paint with ordinary solvent, which is available in any hardware store, but a special solvent for painting is better. These products do not give a yellow tint to the paint over time and have a less intense odor. Be sure to consult with the salesperson at the art store and, if in doubt, ask him to help you.

Try thinning your paints with oil. For artistic purposes, any vegetable is suitable, but flaxseed is most often used. Ordinary gum turpentine or artistic varnish are also perfect for these purposes. Keep in mind that when thinned, oil paints can lose color and look much paler, but once the solvent evaporates, they return to their original color. That is why it is necessary to dilute paints very carefully, constantly checking the result on a separate test canvas. For a softer effect, use a mixture of artist's varnish, oil and turpentine in equal proportions.

Adjust the amount of solvent very carefully. If the ratio is incorrect, the solvent can make the paint too loose, depriving it of its original properties. In addition, even if the color and structure do not change, heavily diluted paint will adhere less well to the canvas, since the solvent destroys the binding links in the paint. If the paint and solvent are selected, they increase the permeability of the paint and contribute to its more durable fixation on the canvas, making top layer stronger.

Please note

It should be remembered that the drying speed of the work on the canvas depends on the properties of the solvent you choose for your paint. If you need the paint to dry faster, it is better to use turpentine or artistic varnish, and if you need longer drying, add oil to the mixture. required proportion.

Useful advice

If, when diluting oil paints, you want to make their shade less bright and intense, you need to add white or white to the solvent or varnish. light tone warm shade.

Sources:

how to dilute oil paints

Essential oils in any cosmetics - best sign quality. They can be used in creams, massage oils, and bath compositions. Two more traditional way applications essential oils– aromatherapy and perfume making. You can prepare a lot of useful aromatic compounds yourself. To do this, you need to know how to dilute oils.

You will need

* A few drops of 100% essential oil. You can use several types for a complex composition.
* Base oil is an inexpensive natural oil with a mild odor. For example, flax oil, peach oil, corn oil, cedar oil, sweet almond oil, grape seed oil and others.
* Essential oils can be added to any cosmetic products, so you can immediately prepare a jar of your favorite cream.
* Pipette, tablespoon and teaspoon.
* Dark glass bottle with a tight-fitting lid.
*Remember the formula:
1 ml of oil is equal to 20 drops; 5 ml is a teaspoon, 20 ml is a tablespoon.
1% oil – 1 drop of essential oil per 5 ml of base oil.
2% - 2 drops - 5 ml.
3% - 3 drops - 5 ml.
5% - 5 drops - 5 ml.
10% - 10 drops - 5 ml, etc.

Instructions

Compositions for aroma lamps 1-5%, for perfumes 10-20%. Recipes for . Soothing composition, for sound sleep: sandalwood 2, neroli 2 drops, incense 1 drop, basic 15 ml. Composition that destroys unpleasant odors: 2 drops, mint 1 , rosemary 1 drop, base oil 5 ml. Invigorating: neroli 2 drops, juniper 1 drop, cinnamon 1 drop, mint 1 drop, base oil 10 ml.
To obtain a perfumed composition of the same oils, it is necessary to contain up to 10-20% essential oils.

To enrich creams and ointments with essential oil, we use a concentration of 5%. You don't need base oil for this. Add 5 drops per 5 ml of ointment and stir the composition well. For daily care of any skin type, the following oils are suitable in nourishing creams: avocado, jojoba, ylang-ylang, cedar, cypress, lavender, sandalwood. Rosemary, rose, jasmine, almond, and neroli have a rejuvenating effect. Antiseptic ointments for problem skin can be enhanced with tea tree, mint, sea buckthorn, and calendula oils.

We make compositions for massage at 4%. Recipes for anti-cellulite mixtures:
- Juniper 2 drops, fennel 2 drops, lemon 1 drop per 6 ml of base oil. - Juniper 3 drops, 1 drop each of rosemary, geranium and sage per 6 ml of base oil. Soothing composition: bergamot 2 drops, geranium 2 drops, ylang- Ylang 1 drop per 5 ml of base oil.

Please note

It is important to store creams and ointments enriched with natural oils in the refrigerator. And the oils themselves should be kept in dark glass bottles away from direct sun rays.

Useful advice

Remember that essential oils are best absorbed into damp skin. It is good to apply the cream after washing, without wiping it into your face. You can do the same thing after a shower, applying oil to your entire body. The compositions of essential oils are light and absorb well without leaving a greasy film on the skin.

For artistic painting, oil paints are used, which contain pigments and oil. This provides rich colors during the drawing process. bright colors, prolongs the durability of the painting on canvas. This type The materials are not easy to use and require mixing with an organic solvent and special preparation of related products. Familiarize yourself with the rules for choosing paints and the range of manufacturers on the market.

What are oil paints

There are single tubes and a set of oil paints for general and artistic purposes. The latter are prepared by grinding pigments in bleached refined linseed or nut oil, and sometimes other drying components are added to it. Ready mixture applied to a previously primed surface. It differs depending on the type chemical composition oil paint.

Compound

The quality of pigments and binding components varies in composition:

Standard ones consist of piments based on cadmium, cobalt, and coloring earth.
To prevent discoloration, non-yellowing oil is added, but the rest is based on linseed oil.
Earthy colors in ocher, sienna and umber are made from naturally occurring pigments.
The most expensive subtypes include light-resistant organic pigments, this allows you to achieve brightness and purity of the main color.
The more expensive the pigments, the more balanced the drying time and the more natural the shade.

How to dilute oil paints

You can simply paint with paints, squeezing them directly from the tubes onto the palette, without diluting. To make them not so thick, a special component is used. Thinner for oil paints is oil - linseed, hemp, nut. It is sold in art stores, has no odor, but increases the drying time of the painting to several years.

Another substance is white spirit, but the artist does not need to use it for dilution - only for washing brushes and palettes, otherwise the quality of the primers will deteriorate. Professional artists mix thinners by pouring the solution into an oil can. Composition options may be:

tee - equal proportions of painting (dammar, mastic) varnish, hemp or linseed oil, white spirit thinner;
Instead of white spirit, you can use turpentine.

Which oil paints are better?

Both beginners and professional artists know where to buy art paints. These are special departments for creativity, including online stores. They sell popular products from famous brands that creative people buy more often than others. Manufacturers rating:

Master class, Ladoga - produced by the Leningrad Artistic Paints Plant.
Gamma - a company from Moscow uses flax and poppy components.
Daler-Rowney is an old English company.
Maimeri is an Italian brand with a palette of 80 shades.
Old Holland is another old company, only from Holland.
Pebble is a French line of highly artistic products for professionals.

Oil paints for painting

How much oil paints cost depends on the type of product chosen. The cost is influenced by the pigment used, the binder base, the volume of the tube and the reputation of the company. Domestic Sonet and Ladoga can be bought from 130 rubles per tube of 30-40 ml, products from foreign manufacturers cost from 200 rubles for the same volume. It is more profitable to buy kits - each tube separately will be much more expensive.

Podolsk Products for Artists

The domestic manufacturer offers high-quality thickly grated oil products at an affordable price:

Model name: for oil painting;
price: 109 rub.;
characteristics: quantity 46 ml, natural resins, yellow amber;
pros: thick, bright pigmentation, color purity;
cons: expensive, no imitations.

Natural pigments are contained in another line of a similar brand, suitable for beginning artists:

model name: Italian series;
price: 104 rub.;
characteristics: 46 ml, no brush;
pros: original earthy colors;
cons: poor range.

Nevskaya palette

The brand from St. Petersburg offers to buy tubes one at a time or in a set. The second one costs more:

model name: set of artistic oil shades;
price: 2620 rub.;
characteristics: 12 colors, 10 ml each;
pros: tube release form;
cons: no brush, delivery.

Individual tubes can be purchased from the same brand for less, making them popular among students:

model name: Sonnet;
price: 376 rub.;
characteristics: 10 ml, cardboard packaging;
pros: bright, rich colors, cheap;
cons: not the highest quality components.

Gamma

This is a popular domestic brand that produces a wide range of creative materials:

model name: Studio;
price: 155 rub.;
characteristics: 46 ml;
pros: wide range;
cons: not found.

The second series produced by the company is the line Old Master, characterized by the breadth of gamut:

model name: Old Master;
price: 155 rub.;
characteristics: 46 ml:
pros: comfortable tube;
cons: not found.

Master class

The Nevskaya Palitra art factory produces a Master Class series containing turpentine, acrylic and oil components:

Model Name: White Lead:
price: 186 rub.;
characteristics: 46 ml;
advantages: increased durability;
cons: no discounts.

In addition to zinc and titanium white colors, the series offers a wide range of different shades for every taste:

model name: Master-Class;
price: 522 rub.;
characteristics: 46 ml;
pluses: wide range, shine;
Cons: high cost, no sales.

Art Materials

Another Russian brand is the company Art Materials, which pleases consumers with a large palette:

model name: NORMA PROFESSIONAL;
price: 674 rub.;
characteristics: 35 ml, light fastness level 4 and 5;
pros: 84 tones, do not leave raised strokes, low consumption;
cons: half of the shades belong to the high price category.

For painting oil paintings using the alla prima (wet) painting technique, another series from the same manufacturer is suitable:

model name: professional series;
price: 674 rub.;
characteristics: metal tube, 35 ml;
advantages: good adhesion, homogeneous creamy consistency, high pigmentation, environmentally friendly product;
cons: expensive, no promotions.

Malevich

A set of paints with the original name Malevich will be useful for beginners and professional artists:

model name: set;
price: 3860 rub.;
characteristics: set of 14 colors, 40 ml each;
pros: there is a brush, thinner, varnish and a metal oiler included, the light fastness rating is 7 points out of 8;
cons: not honey, cardboard packaging.

In addition to the oil set, you can purchase separate, convenient, economical aluminum tubes:

model name: Pro;
price: 315 rub.;
characteristics: 40 ml;
pros: high-quality light-resistant components, can be written without dilution, fine grated consistency;
cons: not found.

Ferrario

Italian craftsmen know a lot about developing creative products, so they launched the Ferrari brand on the market:

model name: Da Vinci;
price: 313 rub.;
characteristics: 60 ml;
pros: thin, high light fastness, suitable for canvas, cardboard, paper, wood;
cons: among the thinners there is white spirit.

The ARTIST OIL series has been developed for professionals, which features a soft, comfortable transparent tube:

model name: ARTIST OIL;
price: 674 rub.;
characteristics: 100 or 250 ml;
pros: high pigmentation, thin consistency, can be applied with a brush or spatula;
cons: 24 shades.

Winsor & Newton

The English Winsor & Newton is considered one of the oldest factories in Europe, which produces a rich palette:

model name: WINTON;
price: 600 rub.;
characteristics: 37 ml;
pros: high pigmentation, good coverage and light fastness, 47 colors;
cons: sold only by piece.

For professional craftsmen, the factory offers a line of the same name, which differs high quality:

Model name: Professional;
price: 420 rub.;
characteristics: 5 ml;
pros: lightfast natural ingredients, you can choose different degrees of transparency, 96 colors;
cons: small volume.

Maimeri

The Italian factory Maimeri produces tubes individually and in sets. The latter are more profitable because they cost less:

model name: CLASSICO;
price: 4750 rub.;
characteristics: 12 shades, 20 ml each;
pros: the kit includes a palette, no waxes or additives, safflower oil for light colors;
cons: limited edition.

Wider color palette The classic line, produced in a professional volume, is different:

model name: Idea;
price: 605 rub.;
characteristics: 60 ml;
pros: suitable for different materials, textured effect;
cons: expensive.

Sonnet

Sonnet brand products have been developed specifically for painting using synthetic components:

model name: Sonnet;
price: 179 rub.;
characteristics: 46 ml;
pros: same drying time, 51 colors;
cons: suitable only for brushes made of kolinsky, synthetic, bristles or palette knives.

From oil paint sets from the same manufacturer, the following series in 12 mini-tubes is distinguished:

Model name: Sonet oil set;
price: 1564 RUR;
characteristics: 12 pcs. 10 ml each;
pros: light-resistant organic pigments, many pure colors, transparency, UV protection;
cons: cardboard packaging.

Sennelier

The French brand Sennelier has been known since 1887 and produces time-tested art materials:

model name: Etude;
price: 453 rub.;
characteristics: 34 ml;
pluses: brightness, intensity, light fastness, color range - 36 shades;
cons: none.

Another line of the French company is Artists, suitable for professionals and beginning artists:

model name: Artists;
price: 392 rub.;
characteristics: 40 ml;
advantages: economical consumption, high-quality pigmentation;
cons: none.

Royal Talens

Dutch manufacturer Russian market offers several lines. Van Gogh oil is popular:

model name: Van Gogh;
price: 2220 rub.;
characteristics: 20 pcs. 10 ml each;
pros: vegetable oils, color depth does not change after drying;
cons: cardboard box.

If you don’t need a set of oil paints, you can buy tubes separately, but they will be more expensive than the collection:

model name: ART CREATION;
price: 765 rub.;
characteristics: 200 ml;
pros: brightness, color saturation, light fastness;
cons: only professional volume.

How to choose oil paints

If an artist is just starting to work with oil, he will need advice on choosing materials:

the more stars in the marking, the higher the light resistance;
the level of shading of the square in the designation indicates covering properties, a completely shaded square indicates a high percentage;
It’s better to buy in separate tubes;
choose dark colors of smaller volume;
Beginners are advised to choose Ladoga or Sonet paints, professionals – PEBEO.

Video

Oil painting is one of the most popular types of fine art. This is due to the brightness and durability of the work. In addition, working with this material is extremely easy and pleasant. In this regard, it is important to know how to dilute oil paints.

Do I need to thin oil paints?

Tee recipe

Experienced artists prefer to prepare their own meals based on their needs. The most common tee recipe includes the following components:

pictorial varnish (it is better to choose dammar or mastic);
hemp, linseed or poppy oil (the latter is considered one of the most transparent and pure);
turpentine or solvent for artistic oil paints (white spirit is most often used).

All components are mixed in a clean glass container in equal proportions. The container must be tightly closed, otherwise the solvent will begin to evaporate and lose its properties.

Useful information

Beginners and experienced artists alike will certainly appreciate the following tips.

Never use solvents from hardware stores, because they not only have unpleasant smell, but also give the paints a yellowish tint after drying.

Some thinners make the paint color fade, but as they evaporate, the color may become brighter again.

Before using a particular solvent when working on a painting, experiment on a test piece of canvas.

You should not use too much thinner, because oil paint can become loose and will not stick to the surface as well.

For quick drying, use turpentine or artist's varnish, and if you have to long work, then it is better to give preference to vegetable oil.

When working with solvents (especially chemical ones), wear gloves and gauze bandages, and do not forget to ventilate the room.

Always dilute a small amount of paint, because it cannot be stored in this form.

If you want to give your painting pleasant aroma, then use cedar or fir varnish as a solvent.

Can the thinner be reused?

Quite often, artists dip brushes stained with paint into a container of solvent. As a result, it becomes cloudy and, at first glance, absolutely unusable. Dirty diluent can be reused if filtered. First, let the liquid stand for sediment to settle, then pass it through a paper filter. The procedure must be repeated until the precipitate stops falling. Pour the filtered diluent into a clean glass container and screw the lid on tightly.

The right thinner for oil paints will make your work more vibrant and will also speed up the drying process.

Oil paints are pigments various colors, ground to powder, which are then oil based mix into paint of the desired consistency and thickness. so called because these paints are based on linseed oil.

Due to the fact that oil has water-repellent properties, it is not possible to mix and dilute these paints like watercolors or acrylics with water. Special solvents based on oil, white spirit and pinene allow you to reduce the pigment concentration or mix different colors among themselves. The chosen thinner may also determine the preservation of the quality of the written work.

Types of thinners

For comfortable and quick work with oil paints, there are several types of thinners, different in composition.

Linseed oil

Flaxseed oil is widely used for painting, as it has almost no odor and is completely safe for health. The paints mix well, maintaining brightness and thickness, and dry quite quickly - in about a week, if there is no dampness in the room. Flaxseed oil is consumed more slowly than other thinners, making it an economical option. The disadvantage of this solvent is the absence of varnish in the composition - this gives a matte, without shine, surface of the paint layer after drying and less resistance to destruction over time.

Artistic varnish

Artist's varnish gives paints bright colors, durability of layers and enamel shine. Works painted on varnish dry quickly, but the strokes lose their texture and get decorative look, so this method is usually used for writing thumbnails. There are also special varnishes for glazing - they quickly fix a layer of paint, allowing you to apply another one on top of it. There are various types varnishes: mastic, dammar, fir.

Thinner "Double"

Thinner "Double" is based on linseed oil, but a small proportion of painting varnish (for example, cedar or fir) is added. This thinner makes the paint thicker, it mixes better, and the drying speed of the layers increases. Also, after final drying, a more durable paint layer is obtained that retains its picturesque qualities for a long time. Colors remain bright and deep, and the surface of brush strokes reflects light evenly, better preserving the characteristic shine of oil paint.

White spirit

White spirit is a common solvent for a wide variety of paints; it can be found not only in art, but also in any hardware store. White spirit is also great for washing brushes and palettes, removing dried paint, and degreasing canvas. It effectively dilutes the paint and evaporates quickly, the paint layer turns out thin and dries quickly, but at the same time, white spirit affects oil paints, disrupting their composition and binding qualities. Therefore, the disadvantage of this solvent is the fragility of the resulting paint layer and the dullness of the surface. In addition, white spirit can have a pungent odor, which causes discomfort during long-term use.

An excellent option is Lakka Bensini from Tikkurila. Affordable and with minimal odor.

Pinen

This thinner is made on the basis of turpentine, but unlike it, it is transparent, odorless and does not cause yellowing of paints. Pinene dilutes paints very well, it is convenient to mix colors on it, the paint layer is transparent, of slight thickness and dries quickly, allowing you to apply new strokes on top without the danger of mixing. This is very convenient if the picture must be painted in a limited time, but if you use only pinene when working, the paint surface will become dull when dry and will not be durable enough.

Thinner "Tee"

Contains a combination of three components - oil, varnish and thinner. The oil gives the strokes a thick consistency and helps the paint mix evenly; the thinner (most often pinene) increases the drying speed of the paint layers and finished work, varnish contributes to the durability of paints and helps maintain the shine and richness of colors. Of all the thinners, “Tee” is used most often and is perhaps the most optimal choice for efficient and fast work with oil paints.

Conclusion

Very often used in oil painting various combinations thinners and varnishes - this largely depends on the task that needs to be solved and the amount of time to work. For example, the first layer of paint is usually mixed with varnish - this gives it strength and better bonding with the canvas soil. Subsequent layers can be painted with a large amount of thinner so that drying does not take much time.

All types of solvents, except natural oils, are moderately toxic and pose some health hazard. Therefore, during work it is necessary to take breaks and regularly ventilate the room. It is also better to choose odorless thinners for painting. Thinners should be stored in a cool, dark place, and be sure to keep the lids tightly closed.