Wooden posts and racks are the main element of most structures of canopies, gazebos, pergolas, fences and other light structures on the site. We'll tell you how to install them correctly so that they last as long as possible.
Often, a pergola or fence has to be repaired only because the wooden poles on which they are supported, buried in the ground, have rotted and become lopsided. To avoid such unpleasant phenomena, it is necessary to install wooden poles on anchors.
This applies even to poles after autoclave impregnation, not to mention those independently treated with bioprotective preparations. In this case, contact of the pillars with the ground is eliminated, which significantly increases their service life.
But if you bury the pillars themselves in the ground (which is much cheaper and less labor-intensive), then you should protect the wood from the effects of moisture contained in the soil. So, after installing the post, it is better to fill the hole not with excavated soil, but with gravel.
For additional protection the lower part of the post in the ground surface area can be wrapped with film or roofing felt.
Gate posts subject to high loads should be concreted.
All these protective measures apply only to the lungs. wooden structures- fences, small gazebos or pergolas.
Racks and poles for them can also be installed above the ground - for example, on U-shaped load-bearing shoes (anchors) made of galvanized steel. Anchor rods made of corrugated steel rods are poured into pits with concrete or cemented into ready-made concrete plinths.
All wooden posts that bear high loads, for example on the roof of semi-open garages, extensions for winter gardens, should be installed on heavy anchors. The most common among them are H-shaped anchors, designed for racks with a thickness of 70-140 mm. Anchors are placed in holes and filled with concrete or cemented into the holes of finished concrete plinths. There are anchors of other designs.
1. After installing the stand, it is better to fill the hole with gravel rather than with excavated soil.
2. Before installation, the stand in the part that will be in the ground and slightly above it is treated with bioprotection agents and wrapped with film or roofing felt. The upper edge of the film is secured with perforated tape, staples or nails.
3. The protruding edges of the film or roofing felt can be covered with pieces of boards for greater reliability. The latter are treated with bioprotection agents and screwed to the rack.
4. Wooden gate posts should be concreted in holes measuring at least 30 x 30 x 60 cm. Above the ground level by a width concrete pouring It is advisable to make a small blind area with a slope from the rack.
5. Widely used anchors for fastening poles and racks: at the top left - a light anchor with a width of 71 mm, next to it - an anchor with an adjustable width up to 141 mm, to the right - a heavy anchor with a tubular rod and an anchor with two jumpers 600 mm high, at the bottom - two anchors attached to the base with bolts.
6. Ready-made concrete plinths. For the construction of lightweight structures, plinths with a height of 30, 40 or 50 cm are used, for heavy ones - with a height of 60 or 80 cm.
7. When installing an anchor in a plinth, install the plinth in the ground, and then insert the anchor rod into the hole, placing pieces of timber under the anchor as temporary support. After this, the anchor is filled with mortar.
8. Heavy anchor under the rack pitched roof suspended on two bars with a cross-section of 35 * 35 mm and a length of 60 cm above the foundation pit, after which they are filled with concrete.
9. Place a stand in the anchor, level it and secure it with a clamp. After this, through holes are drilled and the rack is secured with bolts.
10. On the right are concrete plinths 80 cm high with a cavity for heavy anchors. On the left - ready-made concrete blocks with anchors built into them.
11. Anchor made of galvanized steel with a base for fastening with dowels and bolts to a concrete slab.
12. The rack is placed in the anchor, leveled using a level, then secured.
Taking into account wind loads
For the construction of simple wooden structures, lightweight anchors are quite suitable. However, this only applies to posts for garden fences up to 1 m high, free-standing pergola posts and other lightweight structures. When erecting structures subject to high wind loads, for example screen walls with a height of about 180 cm, only heavy anchors should be used, including those mounted in concrete plinths.
Anchors for installing wooden racks and poles - photo
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Most correct option porch - this is when its foundation is cast along with the house. In this case, there are practically no problems. Sometimes when planning a building it is forgotten. Then a porch is added to the house. An extension is made mainly from three materials: wood, metal and concrete. If the house is brick, they can build it out of brick. Another option is to make it from building blocks and then finish it. In any case, when planning to make a porch with your own hands, you must immediately decide what kind of foundation to make and whether or not to connect it with the base of the building.
How to calculate parameters
First you need to decide which way the steps will go. They can be on one, two or three sides. You determine this based on personal preferences and the finances that you can/want to allocate for construction. The height of the porch depends on the height of the plinth and should be 50-70 mm below the edge door leaf. This small step prevents precipitation from getting inside the house. Perhaps more importantly, it prevents the doors from becoming blocked if the porch rises up due to frost heaving (if the doors open outward).
Determining the dimensions of the upper platform
The layout of the porch begins with determining the size of the upper platform. If the doors open outward, you should be able to stand on the landing to open the doors. That is, its depth should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the door leaf. According to GOST recommendations, the dimensions of the platform should be 1.5 times the width of the doorway. More is possible - less - undesirable - inconvenient.
If your doors are 80 cm wide, then the depth of the upper platform at the very minimum is 120 cm. Its width is determined based on the tastes and proportions of the house, but it should definitely be greater than the width of the doorway.
We count the number and sizes of steps
You know the height of the porch: 50-60 mm below the door leaf. The recommended height of the step (riser) is 15-20 cm. Divide the height of the porch by the height of the steps, you get the approximate number of steps. The number rarely turns out to be a whole number. The remaining centimeters can be divided between all steps or one of them can be made higher. Another option is to create a small step at the bottom, although this may be awkward.
The optimal width of the step (tread) is 25-30 cm. Knowing the number of steps, the depth of the upper platform, the depth of the steps, you can calculate the full dimensions of the porch. Using them you can already develop the foundation for the porch.
When choosing the parameters of the steps, you must adhere to the recommendations of SNiP: the sum of the tread and double riser should be in the range of 600-640 mm. For example, you calculated that the height of the step (riser) is 17 cm, the tread (depth) is 280 mm. After performing the calculations we get: 170 mm * 2+280 mm = 620 mm. We fit into the recommended parameters, which means there is no need to change anything.
What kind of foundation is needed?
If the porch is planned to be light - wooden or metal - the foundation is most often made of piles or columns. Specifically chosen based on geological conditions. On well-draining soils with low groundwater levels, it is sufficient; if there is a tendency to heave, it may be necessary.
For a heavy porch - made of brick or monolithic concrete - a strip foundation is made or. The type of foundation is most often similar to the one on which the house is built.
Next, you need to decide whether you will connect the porch foundation to the house foundation or not. Decisions are made based on the planned mass of the extension and the type of soil. Both options have disadvantages. If there is no connection, cracks often form at the junction of the porch and the house; due to frost heaving, the porch may become warped. Owners often face this problem. summer cottages- Mostly the porch to the dachas is made of wood and disjointed. After the ground thaws, it may “sit” in place on its own, or it may require some additional measures.
When installing connections, it is also possible for cracks to form, but not only at the joint, but also in the “body” of the extension. This happens if the reinforced connections installed cannot compensate for the uneven load, created by the house and an extension. Therefore, a connected foundation for a porch is made if it is attached to a heavy house and is itself heavy and massive, made of reinforced concrete. The second difficulty with this decision is to make the connection high-quality. To do this, use ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm, for which holes are drilled in the foundation with a given diameter. Reinforcement is hammered into them and a frame for the porch is knitted on its basis.
There are two main designs of stairs: on bowstrings and on stringers. They can be made of wood or metal. There are also combined options- metal + wooden steps or metal + concrete steps.
Staircase designs - on bowstrings and on stringers
On the bowstrings
Stairs on bowstrings are the simplest. For a porch - a good option, especially if the house is wooden or a small country house. TO inside support bars are attached to the bowstrings. If you are working with metal, the bars are welded horizontally (you can minimum slope 1-2° so that water flows from the steps). In the case of wood, support bars can either be nailed to which the step will then be attached, or recesses can be cut into the bowstring (no more than 1/2 the thickness of the board), into which the step boards are inserted.
On the stringers
A staircase on stringers can also be of a simple design - with open supports. In this case, triangles are cut at the required angle in the upper part of the board. Their lower part serves as a support for the steps.
When cutting the stringer, set aside the height of the step and the width of the tread. They are connected at right angles. Using the applied markings, a template is made, with which all steps are marked.
The number of stringers in a staircase depends on its width and the thickness of the boards used for the steps. The thinner the board for the steps, the more often you need to install stringers. If you use 25 mm boards, then there should be a distance of no more than 50-60 cm between the two supports. If you need a larger staircase width and don’t want to install three stringers, use thicker boards. It is important that they do not bend under your feet.
If you decide to weld a ladder on stringers from metal, you will need to be patient: you will have to weld many small sections, but the formation principle is the same.
Methods of fastening parts
The lower edge of the porch stairs can sometimes rest directly on the ground. This option is simple, but unreliable. Firstly, the soil may settle and the stairs will begin to collapse. Secondly, upon contact with the ground, both wood and metal are destroyed faster. There are special impregnations for wood (Senezh and Senezh Ultra, for example), and metal is well prepared with a primer and painted in several layers. However, it is better to make a base - pour a shallow tape on which the bowstrings or stringers will rest.
To iron concrete base There are two ways to attach a staircase for a porch - to a beam - a beam with a cross-section of at least 75 * 75 mm or to an embedded beam of a smaller cross-section (pictured on the left).
Difficulties may also arise with the installation of porch posts. There are several ways. There is one very simple and effective one that works great even on heaving soils (clays and loams). Holes 50-60 cm deep are dug under the pillars. A bucket and a half of sand is poured into them at the bottom and compacted well. Half a bucket of crushed stone is poured on top of the sand and compacted too. They put up a pole, level it, put spacers that will hold it in a given position. The space between the wall of the hole and the pillar is gradually filled with crushed stone, tamping it thoroughly. The hole is filled flush with the ground, the top can be concreted (so that precipitation does not drain), but not spilled to the very bottom. Pillars installed in this way do not lead even with severe heaving. A significant part of the water goes into the sand, and the remaining forces of frost heaving are absorbed by the rubble, neutralizing them.
If piles, strip foundations or monolithic slab, the columnar base is folded, then to secure the wooden posts, studs or special glasses are walled into the concrete. After the concrete has matured, the rack bars are attached to them with wood grouse or bolts.
If the racks are metal, a corner with a wall thickness of at least 3-4 mm is placed in the concrete so that it can be easily welded to it later.
When building a wooden porch with your own hands, questions may arise about attaching the railings and balusters. They can be assembled using ordinary nails, but if desired, you can use bolts or wood grouse. In this case, holes are pre-drilled, then fasteners are installed in them and tightened using an angle wrench. Such a connection is certainly more reliable than simply using nails.
If the porch is attached to a freshly cut wooden house, in which the shrinkage has not yet been completed, and the design of the porch provides for the presence of a canopy, the racks must be attached to special adjustable plates.
Please note that both the metal and wood that you will use to build the porch require careful processing. The porch is exposed to all climatic influences and the materials require good protection.
Monolithic concrete stairs
The most durable stairs are made of monolithic concrete. They take longer to manufacture than metal or wood ones, but their service life is calculated in decades. The types of concrete stairs are described in detail in the video. The basics of calculation are also given.
How to make it yourself concrete stairs on stringers, see the next video.
Wooden porch
A wooden porch is one of the most common options in our country. Wood is plastic, easy to process, costs relatively little (in our country), and forgives many mistakes. That is why it is a favorite building material.
It also has disadvantages: it requires good protection before construction begins (antibacterial impregnations and fire retardants), as well as regular care— updating the protective paintwork. Then it looks attractive for a long time, otherwise it quickly loses its decorative effect.
One of the options for building a wooden porch with a ladder on bowstrings can be seen in the video. Please note that the porch is being built on sandy soil, so the method used to install the pillars is not suitable for everyone. Everything else is clear.
Brick porch
Since brick is a dense and heavy material, a brick porch requires a serious foundation. Usually this is a monolithic slab, with double reinforcement and it is better if it is larger in size than the planned porch.
When calculating the parameters of the steps, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the brick and the thickness of the seam between them. Then the laying work will be easier - no need to cut the brick. If you are not going to cover the porch, use for the outer rows quality material. The inner rows - backfilling - can be made from scrap or building blocks and their remains.
Brick porch with wooden steps
If the house is on a high base, making a monolithic brick porch is too expensive. Then the columns or walls are folded, leaving empty space inside. It can then be used for household purposes or covered with decorative panels. If an upper platform is needed, these columns/walls are covered from above with a concrete slab - homemade or ready-made - this is your choice. Then a staircase is attached to the resulting base. It doesn't have to be brick. It can be metal, concrete or a combination.
Photo report: wooden porch on a metal frame
A theory is just a theory, and in construction too. You always understand the essence of the matter better if you observe the process yourself, because you can see how others do it and learn something for yourself.
At the request of the parents, an exact copy of the old porch was made. The only difference is that the new one has a welded metal frame.
In place of the demolished porch, a pit with a depth of 25 cm was dug. Sand was poured and compacted into layers at the bottom, crushed stone was placed on it - 10 cm each. A metal mesh with a mesh of 10 cm was laid on top and the whole thing was filled with concrete.
Welded according to the previous dimensions of the porch metal carcass(from a corner 70*5 mm). The sidewalls are set vertically and secured with studs. Next, the base for the benches is welded to them. All metal is treated with a rust converter, primed and painted twice.
The wood used for construction was dry. Planed boards were cut to size (the width of the porch) and treated with impregnation for direct contact with the ground.
We lay the dried boards on the frame. You have to drill a hole for each fastener - you can’t just take a corner.
At this stage, two mistakes were made at once. The first is that the sheathing did not start from the sides. They immediately began laying the steps. As a result, water constantly flows into the joints of the side paneling and steps and warps the wood. It is necessary to start the cladding from the sides, and make the steps a little longer so that they protrude beyond the side cladding by at least a couple of centimeters. The second mistake is that the boards on the porch are laid close to each other. At high humidity they swell and the surface becomes uneven. When laying porch sheathing, make gaps of at least 5-8 mm.
After all the boards are secured, they are sanded. First tape grinder with coarse grain, then disk with fine grain. The process is long. At the same time, the task is being solved - to remove green color impregnation. It is not covered even by three layers of tint.
After sanding, we begin painting. We apply it three times. Each layer after the previous one has completely dried. The resulting color is dark mahogany.
While the paint dries completely, we begin making the benches. We cut boards for them, grind down an oblique chamfer (for beauty), and cover them with impregnation.
We make the backs with a small decor - roundings at the edges.
We saw along the marked lines with a jigsaw, then sanded to a smooth edge.
The sides are covered with plywood, which was painted the same color. The porch is ready.
Ready wooden porch do it yourself - side view
DIY brick and concrete porch: photo
The walls of the staircase landing were pre-built from brick, on top of which a monolithic concrete slab was poured. Along the edge, a frame of corners is embedded into it so that the stairs and railings can be welded.
Porch plan: how everything should look
From a corner 70*70*5 mm we cut blanks of the required length. After which we treat them with a rust converter. We start cooking after the reaction has stopped and the metal has dried.
We welded the first metal string.
The finished sidewall was attached to the concrete base with two pins.
Attaching to a concrete support support
We cook the second string in the same way and secure it. When working, make sure that the two bowstrings are in the same plane.
We begin to weld the support bars. Here it is important to constantly monitor the horizontality so that the steps are not oblique.
We weld transverse pieces of the corner to the support bars to form a shelf.
The corners are welded so that they form a frame. We put a piece of slate sheet in it. We lay out a reinforcing metal mesh on the slate. We weld the edges of the mesh to the frame.
We pour concrete into the prepared steps. We make it high-quality so that the steps do not wear out longer.
While the concrete gains strength, we begin to work on the posts that will support the canopy over the porch. For them we take a profiled pipe 70*40*3 mm. We cut four columns from it. Two are slightly longer - they will be near the wall of the house, two are 15 cm shorter - they stand on the outer edge of the porch, creating the necessary slope - so that the water and snow melt off normally. For railings and crossbars we use profiled pipe 40*40 mm.
All metal is also treated with a rust converter.
First we set up the racks, grab them, install temporary stops
To avoid lateral stresses, it is important to position the racks strictly vertically. We set them up, grab them, use short seams in several places, and check again whether they are positioned correctly. We weld the temporary stops and only after the next check we weld them according to all the rules.
Once all the posts are aligned and welded, you can assemble the railings. At the required height they are fixed strictly horizontally.
Then we proceed to install the roof. We also cook it from a 40*40 mm profile pipe. First, strapping around the perimeter - at the level of the shorter posts, then - the rest of the structure. It's not complicated, but it takes a lot of time - a lot of intersections.
Then it was time to do the railings and decorations. And again, there are no difficulties, it can be done easily if desired.
That's it, the porch is ready for finishing works. Rough tiles for outdoor use were purchased for the steps and landing. The sidewall of the monolithic slab was also trimmed with it.
The metal was painted with paint that matched the tone, and the corrugated sheeting left over from the installation of the roof was used on the roof. The DIY porch turned out pretty good.
Photo ideas for porch design
Porch to wooden bath or dacha - a staircase made of logs
Porch covered with WPC - wood-polymer composite
All photos from the article
In the process of performing various construction works, sometimes it becomes necessary to attach a wooden pole to concrete. As a rule, this operation raises many questions among novice masters. In this article we will look at how to attach wooden poles to a concrete base in several ways.
General information
The need to install wooden poles on concrete can arise in a variety of situations, for example, when installing fences, building gazebos and other wooden structures on a strip foundation.
At first glance, it may seem that installing a wooden pole on concrete is very difficult, but in reality, professionals have some tricks that allow them to cope with this operation without any difficulties. Below you can see for yourself.
Installing a wooden post on concrete
First of all, it should be said that installing pillars on concrete often means different operations:
Below we will take a closer look at each of them.
