Wooden buildings made of logs. Log houses

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, a log is also suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His topic collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

  • Eco-hut.
  • Preparation.
  • Foundation.
  • Box.
  • Roof.
  • Interior work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 User FORUMHOUSE

The dream has long crept in about building a wooden house - environmentally friendly, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other “benefits” of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable house with minimal effort, suitable for winter raids and year-round residence, therefore, shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of the past centuries were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the design:

  • Pile foundation.
  • Box made of hand-cut logs.
  • Metal roofing.
  • Sawdust with and sawdust with lime are used as insulation for floors.

Preparation

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden cabin and toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman set his sights on a one-and-a-half-story log house, 8x9 meters, with five rooms, but as he began to think about it, a completely different design emerged. I refused the second floor, even though it was an attic, both due to my reluctance to do staircase fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with planned stove heating there will be a large temperature difference between levels. Plus, it’s problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with a ceiling and a cold attic it is much easier. Next, it was the turn of quadrature, and the result of selecting the optimal layout was a project for a 6x6 meter log house, with a set of functional rooms.

The vital meters needed for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings on operation by reducing heating costs, and the specifics of a dacha - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping.” However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned log cutting into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, but a seven-meter log is much more expensive, and only a few people work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but also “ dovetail"with a crossing is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.

Foundation

Preference was given to screw piles due to the desire to try an “ultra-modern solution” and save money, as well as due to the speed and relative ease of installation. A total of nine piles were screwed in - three support points on each load-bearing beam, pile diameter 108 mm, thickness - 4 mm. Despite some problems when installing the piles and the flimsiness of the coating, which is positioned as a durable protective layer, but in fact can be easily removed with a fingernail, the craftsman is satisfied with the choice. Moreover, perhaps the bathhouse will also be placed on stilts, although he admits that a tape or slab “will be more reliable.”

Box

The frame was collected using moss that had been ordered in advance from another region; before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since when it was delivered it was still fresh and had not dried out much during the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. Making log partitions turned out to be problematic due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team delivered and in another day assembled just a box, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely all over the walls, it took significantly less than planned, as practice has shown - they obviously did not report it.

To dry the log house, they cut out ventilation holes size 30x30 cm, with grill. To everyone who is just in the process, mike099 advises making more of them. I did the curling (the initial caulking of a log house with moss) on my own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, and cutting off the excess with a utility knife.

Roof

From popular now soft tiles the craftsman refused for several reasons.

mike099

The soft roof was dismissed immediately, due to less environmental friendliness and more high price. The binders, the basis of soft tiles, are far from natural materials. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a smooth flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore I preferred metal tiles, imitating a ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of sub-rafter elements there is a central supporting ridge beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50×50 mm), lathing with pitch to match the covering profile (35 cm). As planned, the eaves overhangs are 70 cm long; in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the frame “under the roof”, I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary flashings from waterproofing along the ends, cracks of the ebbs and at the junction of the frame and trim. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemicals, I had to treat the imitation timber gables with protective impregnation.

Interior work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the timber; I wanted to maintain the style, but processing a log now is not a cheap pleasure, just like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a 50 mm thick board, covering the cracks with an unedged board 25 mm thick; all lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. To avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two support logs go through the ceiling.

I made some of the openings myself, as specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The frame was made simple, rough T-shaped: the grooves in the log were marked with a saw, the main cutting was done with a milling cutter. I laid a 50x50 mm dry block with linen tape (insulation) and attached a box of 200x50 mm boards to it with self-tapping screws.

Another relaxation in favor of modern materials - a metal door and two plastic windows, wooden Euro windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows himself, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory quality, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal despite the high labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. Under the furnace, the foundation is 1.7 m deep, reinforcement frame, two m³ of concrete.

As the subfloor dried, it showed cracks; I had to cover them with strips; before adding sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Before laying, the sawdust was flavored with lime and carefully compacted. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman installed communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warping of the floor after drying for just one day and the falling out of knots. The result is the opening of the coating and re-installation, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to go into the first winter with an insulated underground - a metal frame around the perimeter of the base, XPS to it, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn on the site was right under the frame, and the base was subsequently lined with basement siding to match the brickwork.

Sanding logs mike099 started on my own, first with the help of an eccentric grinding machine. It turned out to be rather weak, so we replaced it with a grinder, first I used a wheel with 80 grain, the second pass - with 120-150 grain. The vacuum cleaner alone collected 200 liters of waste, but it was worth it.

Natural wood is an environmentally friendly, durable, inexpensive, aesthetic material. Logs have been used for construction for a very long time and do not lose their popularity today. Today, when people make a choice in favor of natural and environmentally friendly products, log houses are becoming especially relevant.

A huge number of companies are engaged in the construction of turnkey wooden houses. Most often, they are also involved in harvesting logs. The final price of the finished home will depend not only on the size of the house, but also on the quality of the log, its diameter and production method.

Building a house with your own hands is half the price. In this article we will look step by step at how you can build a log house yourself.

Peculiarities

Wood has the properties of releasing moisture. Living in such houses is much more pleasant than in stone ones: warm in winter and cool in summer. A wooden structure is lighter than concrete or brick, therefore, the foundation will be cheaper.

Compared to timber, a house made from logs will be much more expensive and will take more time to complete the construction process, but the unique flavor and high performance characteristics easily compensate for these shortcomings.

One of the important points is the preservation of the wood structure in the interior. The interior design of a wooden house made of logs can be decorated in rustic style like a hut with a Russian stove or, for example, Provence.

Despite the emergence of new technologies in the construction field, log houses continue to be built using traditional methods. The logs are laid in a horizontal structure forming walls. Each laid row is called a crown, and the lowest one is called a frame crown. A log house that consists of 4 walls is called a four-wall structure, where the logs are tied together in the corners. If there is an internal partition - a five-walled one.

Pros and cons

A log house has a number of advantages. Construction industry specialists and owners of log houses note the following advantages:

  • Environmental friendliness of the material. Such houses are built from natural wood, which allows preserving the natural qualities of the material. Such a home will always retain a pleasant woody aroma and a cozy atmosphere.
  • The most important thing people love about wood is its excellent thermal insulation properties.. For example, housing made of 20-centimeter logs is much better thermally insulated than similar housing made of brick. Therefore, erecting log house, you will save on heating.
  • Weight wooden house will allow you to lay any type of foundation.

  • Structure wood allows the house to “breathe”. It is comfortable to be in such a house.
  • From a material point of view wood is an affordable building material. Building a bare box log house will cost you a small amount of money that you would never have bet on brick house. Also due to the cheap foundation and lack of decorative processing The walls of a house made of wood end up being much cheaper.
  • Wood has a natural feel. Pleasant appearance allows you not to finish it additionally either outside or inside.

  • Wood has high strength and load resistance, which allows you to build a house on several floors.
  • Possibility of assembly and disassembly if necessary, allows you to move the house to a new location.
  • The wooden house project is simple design drawing, which will be understandable to anyone reading.

In addition to the advantages, such buildings also have disadvantages:

  • susceptible to rotting over time;
  • complete shrinkage of the log house occurs after three years, although you can move in six months after construction is completed;
  • Although special treatments reduce the fire hazard, the risk of fire is still high.

Wood selection

In preparation for construction important stage is the choice of material. The main requirements for wood as a building material are resistance to external aggressive factors, aesthetic appeal, accessibility, durability, heat and sound insulation.

It is also important to understand that no matter how high-quality the wood is, if the construction technology is violated and technical instructions are not followed, then the durability of the building is not guaranteed in this case.

Typically, the choice of wood type is made between larch, pine and spruce.

Larch

Larch – conifer, which is distributed throughout Russia. The most suitable for construction is larch from the Siberian regions.

This type of wood has a huge number of advantages. It is durable, strong, does not rot and is not affected by fungus.

Materials made from larch do not swell or deform even in rooms with high humidity.

Larch has a beneficial effect on humans, bringing great benefits to his health. The price for products made from this material will be affordable to every buyer. In addition, larch does not require additional processing, unlike other species, which can also significantly save money.

In the process of rounding logs, very narrow sapwood is removed from larch, as a result of which the logs will not turn blue in the future.

Logs of this species do not require additional processing. The resin of the tree itself acts as an antiseptic, disinfecting and preventing tree beetles from developing.

Larch has greater fire resistance compared to other species.

Spruce and pine

Both breeds are actively used in the production of building materials. These are the main competitors in the consumer demand rankings. Timber made from these species is durable and strong.

Spruce and pine are identical in physical indicators, however, spruce timber is looser, but that is why it is warmer compared to pine.

Both species are similar in strength and chemical properties, but pine is more susceptible to blue-sap staining, which can be prevented in the first place by special means. As a preventative measure, it is recommended to use antiseptics. Over time, the color of spruce wood does not change.

The natural moisture content of both rocks is 12%. Timber harvesting for spruce and pine occurs in winter time year due to the fact that deformation during shrinkage of logs is possible in summer. Pine logs large diameter preferred when constructing large buildings.

There are also differences in the structure of the fiber: in pine it is pronounced and has a certain pattern, while spruce has a uniform structure.

When choosing a material important factor is its flammability. But this can be combated by using fire retardant compounds to treat wood.

When building wooden houses they use various types logs

A rounded (calibrated) log is obtained by processing rounding machine. The advantages of this type of raw material are increased quality, the ability to form a profile of any complexity, low cost and high speed of construction of the log house. Houses made of rounded wood look beautiful and do not require additional processing.

Planed logs are a more suitable option for a warm and durable log house. It is processed with an electric planer, and all irregularities are removed. Such logs turn out even and smooth. The price of a house made of planed logs is significantly higher compared to houses made of other types of wood. The scraped log is the most durable even without special treatment. And with additional antiseptic treatment, a log house made from this type of log can last more than a hundred years.

Minor processing helps the debarked log retain everything protective properties, which significantly increases its service life.

Glued laminated logs combine the advantages of profiled laminated veneer lumber and beautiful rounded shapes logs It is characterized by increased strength compared to solid wood. The main advantages of this type of log: it does not crack or change its shape over a long period of use, and also has a slight shrinkage of only 1-2%.

Requirements

There are certain standards and requirements that must be taken into account before starting to build a house.

So, for example, first you need to obtain permission to build housing on your site. Upon receipt, documents such as: certificate of ownership are checked land plot, permission to use land for country house construction or individual housing.

After receiving the necessary permission from the administration, you need to start planning the site. Neighboring buildings and a fence are selected as a guide for the location of the future house. The distance to them should be at least 5 m.

There are also requirements for building materials: no cracks, defects, or curvature. U solid timber and glued indications may vary. For example, in a solid log, cracks with a depth of up to half of the log are allowed, while in a glued log, their permissible depth is only 1/3. The curvature of the laminated veneer lumber can be up to 10 mm, and in the case of solid laminated timber – 17 mm.

Design

Any house is an architectural and engineering structure that cannot be built without a project that will require certain calculations. When designing, it is best to turn to specialists or choose a ready-made project.

It is worth considering that a two-story house with an area of ​​50 m2 will cost a little more in terms of financial costs than a one-story house of the same area due to the fact that costs are reduced due to the foundation, engineering systems and roofs.

Before starting design, it is important to conduct a geological survey of the area, which will give an idea of ​​the properties of the soil and groundwater Oh. This information will help you decide on the type of foundation.

To begin with, calculate total weight future home, according to which the type of foundation is selected. Then the layout of the rooms, as well as the design and appearance, are thought out. It is necessary to think through in detail precisely at this stage of preparation, since subsequently it will be impossible to make any changes, since the partitions are in log houses intersect with the crowns of the external walls.

The next step is to calculate the number, locations and sizes of windows and doors.

Next, the type of roof is selected. Before designing a roof, you need to consider that the simpler it is, the more reliable it will be in the end. After which the sequence of work is developed, as well as the stages of assembly of the log house. At the end of the design, the installation of all utilities is thought through.

Do not forget to think about the issue of storing building materials on site. To do this, they usually build a shed where logs are laid with the obligatory relaying of thin wooden blocks.

Important details:

  • decide in advance what type of timber the construction will be made from;
  • do not forget to calculate the impact of shrinkage on the roof;
  • choose the place where the house will stand, taking into account the 5-meter distance from the boundary lines of the site;
  • do not design window openings onto the roadway, in the future the rooms will be noisy.

Projects for country houses and houses for permanent residence will differ in some details. For the latter option, a more durable monolithic foundation is selected, the installation of communications, careful insulation and special sound insulation are taken into account.

Standard project– the most common type of design that does not require any special modifications. The most important thing in this option is to take into account the characteristics of the site for future construction.

A preliminary design is a drawing that shows only the facade of a house without calculations.

An individual project is developed taking into account all the wishes of the future homeowner.

Preparation

Today, a home is not just a place to live or spend a weekend, but also a financial investment. Therefore, before you start building, you need to thoroughly prepare. Errors in design, choice of materials, and installation can lead to serious consequences in the future.

The preparation for construction consists of the following steps:

  1. If you are already the proud owner of a plot of land, before construction you will need to think through the design, obtain technical specifications from the authorities servicing communication systems, and also obtain a building permit.
  2. If there is no electricity or water on the site, you must take care of this at the preparation stage. The issue of water supply is solved by drilling a well, and in the absence of electricity, it is necessary to stock up on at least an electric generator.
  3. To prevent strangers from entering your site and preserving building materials, it is advisable to fence it.
  4. It is also necessary to install a small utility unit, which will simultaneously serve as a place to store tools and shelter from bad weather.

Then you need to level the area for the foundation, uproot stumps and tree roots, and clear the construction site of debris.

Construction stages

After completing the preparation, design, and procurement of materials, construction can begin.

When building a house with your own hands, it is important to follow the stages of action.

At the first stage, the foundation is erected and ground floor. Trenches or a pit are dug depending on the type of foundation. For log houses, strip, pile-grillage or slab foundation options are usually chosen. At the same stage, communications are laid and drainage is arranged. It is better to lay the foundation of a house in the warm season.

After delivering the marked log to the site, the construction of walls and floor coverings is carried out, as well as the installation of stairs and internal partitions. Assembly takes place according to the technological maps of the walls in the layout. All crowns are fastened together in a checkerboard pattern.

The next stage is construction rafter system Houses. It is very important to follow all the necessary technological rules. When constructing wooden houses, rigid fastening of rafters is not used due to the fact that during shrinkage the entire structure may rupture. The most popular roofing coverings are metal tiles, corrugated sheets, soft roof, ondulin.

The next stage is sanding the walls and insulating them. Shrinkage may cause cracks to form, so it is very important to inspect the house and seal any cracks if necessary. After sanding, walls can be coated with special tinting solutions to change the color.

Then the doors and windows are installed, leaving gaps for the insulation. Engineering work is being carried out, installation heating system, stairs. At the end of all work, external and internal finishing is carried out.

Insulation

A house made of wood is considered warm and pleasant to live in due to the fact that the walls breathe, retaining heat. However, the thickness of the logs cannot always withstand severe frosts. In this case, it is best to carry out external and internal insulation walls, roof and foundation. Insulating your home will help reduce heating costs and also reduce heat loss.

A vapor barrier film must be present in any type of home insulation, be it external or internal.

The film is installed between the wall sheathing and the heat insulation layer. The vapor barrier layer helps the main insulation not to get wet.

Outside

Owners of log houses should take into account that not all materials are suitable for external installation of insulation.

Ecowool, granulated sawdust and mineral wool are well suited for log buildings - these materials do not prevent water evaporation, are resistant to combustion and increase the thermal insulation parameters of a log house.

Before installing external insulation in a log house, it is necessary to treat the facade antiseptics to prevent damage to wood by rot, mold and insects. The structure must also be thoroughly caulked, that is, all walls must be examined for damage and cracks.

The cracks can be easily detected with the help of a candle; to do this, you just need to move the burning flame next to the wall. If it deviates, then there is a gap in this place that needs to be sealed. When caulking, jute or tow is used.

After this, the sheathing is installed in the form of horizontal and vertical guides with a step equal to the thickness of the insulation. First lay on top of the sheathing vapor barrier film using a stapler, and on top of it - insulation material. Lays on top of it waterproofing film, which will protect the insulation from moisture.

Finishing in the form of siding or lining is done at the very end. This cladding will provide protection from winds and bad weather, and will also give a beautiful look to your home.

It is advisable to insulate the house in the dry season and only a year or two after the start of its operation.

For external insulation, in addition to the heat insulator, you will need wooden beams for the frame, a vapor barrier and a water barrier, and fasteners.

It should also be noted that thermal insulation work on the outside is better than other insulation options.

From the inside

Insulating from the inside can sometimes reduce living space, so many people choose external insulation. However, if outdoor version insulation is not suitable, but you still need to protect your home from the cold, then this can be done from the inside. But it should be remembered that this method can create a threat of rotting of the walls, this is especially typical for baths due to the constant high humidity.

Before insulation, you need to caulk, seal all cracks and cracks with tow, foam or felt and treat the walls with a protective solution. Next, a “pie” is created, consisting of several layers. First, a vapor barrier film is laid. Then a frame of 5*5 cm timber is installed, after which a layer of insulation is applied to the frame and covered with another layer of vapor barrier film.

You should never rush into anything finishing works, if the room is not yet insulated. It is important to insulate not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor. Popular materials for this are mineral wool and glassine for the ceiling and floor; glass wool, polystyrene foam and ecowool - for walls.

You can insulate the building from the inside no earlier than a year after the construction of the house, in which case the insulation will last a long time. External roof insulation is a rather labor-intensive process consisting of several steps. First you need to thoroughly waterproof the entire roof space. In this case, membrane film is most often used, which is easy to install and affordable. Next, the insulation flooring is made, and at the end the roofing material is laid.

To insulate the inside, the attic is most often finished fiberboard sheets that create additional sound insulation and also create a beautiful appearance.

Bulk and liquid insulation, which must meet the following requirements: have low thermal conductivity, light weight, high vapor permeability, good sound insulation qualities, be fire resistant and have high density.

It is also possible to insulate the foundation both from the inside and from the outside. The most optimal time for insulating the foundation is before the construction of walls begins. If you are not planning a basement, then the entire space should be covered with expanded clay up to the level of the future floor. To create this type of insulation, it is necessary to make formwork around the perimeter of the internal walls, using durable materials(boards, slate). Next, expanded clay is poured inside, and the subfloor is covered with a hydromembrane layer and mineral wool.

The outer walls of the foundation must be treated with special sprayed insulation.

Installation of partitions

In addition to load-bearing walls, wooden houses have interior partitions, which can be made from various materials, but in a log house they are usually made of wood, in harmony with the log walls. They are usually installed after shrinkage.

With the help of interior partitions you can separate one large space into several small rooms to suit your taste. At the same time, they do not carry any load, but are responsible for sound insulation. Such partitions can be moved from place to place without outside help.

When designing a house, interior partitions are usually placed so as not to create a large number of passage spaces. Today, there are many modern programs where you can create a three-dimensional model and immediately evaluate the future layout.

Partitions must be made of quality wood, treated with an antiseptic, and have lightness, reliability, rigidity and heat and sound insulation.

There are several types of interior walls.

Frame-panel

The most popular and economical option that you can easily do with your own hands. They are constructed from timber beams, which are connected to each other by horizontal strapping. This harness gives strength and reliability. The insulation of frame-panel partitions can be made of mineral wool, while on both sides the wall must be covered with some kind of vapor barrier material.

Frame-panel walls are considered the best in terms of sound insulation compared to other types. The surface can also be sheathed with plywood sheets to give a perfectly flat surface.

Solid

This type The partitions are made of the same material as the load-bearing walls, but the top is covered with fiberboard. The solid partition is secured at the top and bottom using bars, and at the sides with nails.

Panel walls

Made from several layers of boards that are laid in a bandage, it is a rather heavy structure with a thickness of 6 cm and a weight of about 80 kilograms.

Partitions are installed after the log house shrinks. To make them you will need a hammer, hacksaw, screwdriver, chisel, screwdriver, electric drill and jigsaw.

Favorable price for high-quality construction of houses from rounded logs in Moscow and the region, up to three hundred km. from the Moscow Ring Road, we carry out construction of objects in several stages - from foundation construction to turnkey finishing. You can use a standard layout from our catalog, or develop an individual one according to technical specifications.

How to choose a house project?

We offer dozens ready-made solutions for every taste - the catalog of projects includes comfortable housing from 30 to 300 or more square meters. This allows you to flexibly choose an option for your dacha or country house for year-round living of a large family. If necessary, various architectural changes are made - expansion of rooms, redevelopment, and so on.

Our architect will create an individual home layout that takes into account your wishes and requirements. Even small dacha with an area of ​​up to 100 m2 can be designed in an insulated version for use at any time of the year. As for cottages from 100 to 200 or more m2, almost any variation is possible here to suit your taste: a large living room with second light, a gym, a garage, technical rooms and much more.

  • The project is included in the price,

    regardless of whether you choose
    our standard project or you will order
    individual

  • We do not take large sums

    when signing the contract. To check in
    site requires a small advance payment

Two types of profiles to choose from

We provide each client with a choice of 2 types of grooves - Finnish and lunar. The first gives a 30% increased joint area, but in practice such a tight fit can lead to cracks and twisting. At risk are rounded logs with a diameter of 200-220 mm, which are less resistant to changes in geometry after the first 5-10 years of operation.

The lunar groove has already proven itself well, but it has a smaller size - 50% of the thickness of the material. Therefore, if housing is planned to be used throughout the year, blanks of 240-300 mm are recommended. They will provide a stable microclimate for permanent residence. In our office you will be able to personally compare both assembly technologies by examining the samples presented.

  • You can always personally

    make sure of the quality of our work,
    going to the site together with the foreman

  • Our company is uniformly

    distributes payment under the contract so that
    provide on time and without delay
    material per site

Own production of rounded logs

We produce wall kits ourselves at modern facilities in Kirov. The timber is harvested and processed in advance with strict adherence to technological processes. As a result, each log has ideal proportions, best quality and minimum cost. This makes it possible not only to produce high-quality products with a diameter of 180-320 mm, but also to keep the cost of finished houses below the market average.

The construction process is also strictly controlled - responsible employees monitor compliance with the deadlines for the delivery of building materials and components to the site, all actions of the teams and the completion of stages on time. Payment is made in a convenient format - stage-by-stage payment, according to the agreement.

  • We use in construction

    northern forest from the Kirov region, which
    considered one of the best in Russia

  • Our company employs

    qualified and professional
    teams with over 20 years of experience

Affordable prices and benefits of cooperation with us

Inexpensive ones are the most popular two-story houses from rounded logs, since they have minimum price 1 sq.m. This is explained by the fact that the costs of constructing a foundation and roof do not depend on the number of storeys, but only on the dimensions of the foundation. For example, one-story cottage An 8x8 will have 64 m2, and a two-story one will have 128 m2 with equal costs for roofing and foundation.

  • High level of service and customer support

    The company relies on quality, therefore it avoids staff turnover, including
    managers.

    All of them have been working since the founding of the company, have work experience and extensive experience in the field.
    construction.

    Starting from your call to us and ending with the delivery of the object, the manager will personally monitor
    monitor the progress of construction and promptly solve any problems

The foundation for a log house must provide reliable and durable support for a wooden house and at the same time become a barrier to penetration negative influences soil base. For a wooden house, it is important that the size of the foundation for the log house does not extend beyond the perimeter of the building (this is not economically profitable). Overhanging logs outside the foundation of a log house can create unexpected stress centers in the walls, which will lead to the destruction of the load-bearing structures of the house, so it is important optimal size foundations of the log house. The question that remains is which foundation is best for a log house.

Log house

A log house is the walls of a house made of solid logs. In the corners of a wooden house, logs are connected into so-called crowns. At the bottom of the log, a piece of wood is cut out the width of the transverse diameter of the log. Wooden elements in the corners of the house form locking systems that do not require additional strengthening. This confirms the popular expression - to build a house without a single nail.

Such houses are most often built in areas where timber is available to consumers at a low price. Such places include Central, Eastern Siberia and the Far East. Although it is worth noting that the popularity of constructing private houses from solid wooden elements has increased widely in all regions of our country.

The low specific gravity, excellent thermal insulation qualities, durability and environmental friendliness of wood are an undeniable advantage over other building materials.

Types of foundations for a log house

Foundations for log houses can be completely different. This largely depends on the composition of the soil base, the depth of soil freezing, the groundwater level and the weight of the building. Therefore, the foundation for a log house can be of the following type:

  • tape;
  • columnar;
  • pile;
  • pile-screw;
  • slab;
  • combined.

Before you finally choose the design of the foundation of your house, it is good to listen to the advice of the owners of neighboring houses. If a log house has stood for more than 10 years without any major incidents, it is worth taking a closer look at what and how its foundation is made of.

Tape

Strip foundation for a log house - the most common supporting structure. Base under wooden house When the soil is dense and the level of freezing is low, the soil is often made shallow.


The diagram shows the width of the monolithic tape is 300 mm. This indicator is directly tied to the average diameter of the logs from which the walls of the house will be erected. If sanded logs with a diameter of 420 mm are prepared, then the width of the monolith must be at least 450 mm. Constructing a shallow foundation for a log house with your own hands is quite accessible to people with minimal experience in construction work.

The depth of the foundation for a wooden house should be greater than the freezing thickness of the soil. If the soil freezes by 100 mm, then the foundation is deepened by 200 mm.

Depth standards concrete base logs are directly related to the number of storeys of the structure (weight of the structure).

The construction of a strip foundation occurs as follows:

  1. Markings are made on the construction site, securing them with pegs and a cord.
  2. Produce earthworks– dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under the internal load-bearing walls.
  3. Install formwork from wooden panels.
  4. The shields are reinforced with spacers and wedges. Between parallel rows of panels, spacers are made of timber.
  5. Shields with inside covered with sheets of waterproofing (roofing felt, polyethylene film or other material).
  6. Sand is poured into the bottom of the trench and compacted to form a cushion 200 mm thick.
  7. A reinforced frame is placed in the formwork. The frame is made of 4 longitudinal rods of a periodic profile with a diameter of 8 mm to 12 mm.
  8. Longitudinal reinforcement is secured with short rods, tied with wire into a single structure. In some cases, electric welding is used.
  9. The formwork is poured concrete mortar.
  10. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is dismantled. The foundation for the log house is ready for further work.

Concrete work is best done in the summer. It is necessary to expect that the concrete gains its initial bearing capacity 28 - 30 days after pouring.


The photo shows that the monolithic tape contains vents with a pitch of 1.5-2 m, which provide natural ventilation underground, which prevents the accumulation of moisture inside the basement space.

Columnar

The installation of columnar supports for a wooden house is done in order to save consumables foundation. Columnar supports are erected from natural stone, bricks, concrete monolithic pillars. One of the best options is the base of a log house made of asbestos-cement pipes. Such supports are also called bored piles.

The foundation for a log house made of asbestos pipes is erected as follows:

  1. The building plan is transferred to the construction site, marking the location of the supports.
  2. Wells are drilled at the marked points. If excavation is carried out to a depth of up to 2.5 m, then this is done with a hand drill. Deeper soil excavation is carried out using a mechanized method.
  3. The bottom of the wells is covered with sand and crushed stone in layers of 200 mm. The bulk pillow is compacted to a dense state.
  4. Asbestos pipes are lowered into the well.
  5. Frames made of knitted or welded reinforcement are placed in the pipes.
  6. The pipes are filled with liquid concrete solution (usually M 300 concrete is used).
  7. Vertical outlets of the reinforcement are connected to the grillage. If the grillage trim consists of metal profile(as a rule, a channel is used with the flanges down), then the reinforcement is welded to the grillage.
  8. Placed on the grillage wooden beam or board. Then walls are built from logs.

Typically, point supports are installed in increments of 3 m. So, with a length load-bearing wall more than 12 m the number of supports must be at least 6 pcs.

Pile

On soft soils, a wooden house is erected on a pile foundation. Reinforced concrete piles are installed using a pile driving machine. The length of the piles is calculated so that the end of the pile enters dense soil layers to a depth of at least 300 mm.


Piles can be reinforced concrete and metal. The supports, passing through weak layers of soil, strongly compact the soil around them. It is thanks to this property of pile foundations that it becomes possible to build houses from logs 2-3 floors high.

The top of the piles is tied with reinforced concrete beams or monolithic tape. The ground part of the piles must be covered with waterproofing. Waterproofing is usually made from roofing felt on bitumen mastic.

The space under the log house is covered with cladding made of profiled flooring, brickwork or other material. Be sure to install ventilation holes in the lining of the base.

Technology for installing reinforced concrete piles

Piles are installed using specialized installations (hammers). The driving process is divided into two stages:

  • preparing the pile for installation;
  • clogging the support.
Preparing the pile for installation

If we take into account that a standard reinforced concrete pile 12 m long weighs about 4 tons, then it is delivered to the installation site on a wheeled or tracked platform. A hole is drilled in the marked place - a type hole. The end of the pile is dragged to the hole. Using a special lift, the support is raised and installed in a strictly vertical position.

Driving a pile

The supports are driven in with a hammer equipped with a diesel or hydraulic power unit.

Failure may occur during pile driving. This occurs due to strong sudden compaction of the soil. The support is allowed to “rest”. Driving continues until the design depth is completely reached.

Pile-screw

Screw piles are becoming increasingly popular among developers today. Screw piles are installed both manually and mechanized. Screw supports have a number of advantages over other types of foundations for wooden houses made of logs:

  • installation of piles does not depend on the time of year because there are no wet processes;
  • the pile field is created in a short time;
  • piles up to 2.5 m long and up to 108 mm in diameter do not require the use of mechanized installations and are installed manually.

Basically, for the installation of a pile-screw foundation for a log house, supports are used that can be manual installation. Installation of screw supports is carried out as follows:

  1. At the designated points, shallow holes are made with a hand drill (no more than 300 mm deep).
  2. The pile is inserted into the hole with a screw.
  3. Installation of the support is carried out by a team of 3 people. Two workers rotate the pile around its axis using levers (metal pipes) inserted into the holes in the head of the support shaft.
  4. The third worker controls the vertical position of the pile.
  5. The installed piles are cut to one level using an abrasive wheel.
  6. Metal platforms are welded to the upper ends of the barrels.
  7. The piles are tied from channel bars.
  8. Timber is laid on the grillage.
  9. Walls made of logs are erected on the finished foundation.

Slab

The foundation in the form of a reinforced concrete slab for a wooden house is made on very weak soils. Such a foundation requires the use of large volumes of concrete and reinforcement:

  1. The site is covered with crushed stone. Then a sand cushion is arranged.
  2. A frame of metal reinforcement is laid on compacted sand.
  3. A barrier curb is installed around the perimeter of the site to prevent liquid concrete from leaking beyond the base.
  4. The entire site is filled with concrete.
  5. After 28 days, the foundation is ready for the construction of the log house.

Combined

Building a log house on a slope creates a lot of inconvenience. A way out of this situation may be to construct a combined type foundation. The reinforced concrete slab is supported on a pile foundation or on a strip-step foundation along the sides along the slope.

More details about the process in the video:

Wooden houses made from logs will stand long and strong if the correct foundation design is chosen. In especially difficult cases, it is better not to build a foundation for a log house with your own hands. Professionals will always come to the rescue: they will draw up design and estimate documentation and carry out high-quality construction of the foundation for a wooden house.

Houses made of rounded logs are in steady demand due to the successful combination of aesthetic appearance, thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and affordable price. A log house is durable if you follow the construction technology and use protective compounds for wood.

In addition, it is important to select and arrange the foundation correctly, otherwise uneven deformation of the underground foundation will lead to distortions of the frame. This is fraught not only with jamming of doors and windows, but also with the appearance of gaps between the crowns, the appearance of cracks in the logs, and the gradual destruction of the structure.

To choose the right type of foundation, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil at the construction site, the level of occurrence groundwater, dimensions of the house (total area, number of storeys), as well as the properties of the foundation structures themselves. There are the following types of foundations:

  • slab;
  • columnar;
  • pile (including pile-screw);
  • tape (monolithic, prefabricated).

When determining which foundation is best for a log house, it is important to understand the principles of installation and operational properties each type of base.

Slab construction

Among all types of foundations, this option is one of the most expensive, since the foundation is a monolithic slab of reinforced concrete. In addition to the high cost and material consumption, a slab foundation makes it impossible to build a cellar under the house.

However, installing a monolithic reinforced concrete slab is a practical solution when building a house on a site with marshy or shifting soil. A slab foundation is called “floating” because it moves during seasonal movements of the soil; it prevents wall structures from deforming due to uneven loads.

Any type of soil is suitable for using a slab foundation, but in most cases it is not practical due to increased financial costs, given that a log house is characterized by a relatively low weight and does not need a reinforced foundation.

The technology for installing a slab-type structure includes the following stages of work:

  • leveling the site and preparing a pit 20-30 cm deep;
  • laying and compacting sand and gravel cushion;
  • installation of a waterproofing layer that protects the base of the foundation from moisture;
  • fastening the formwork around the perimeter;
  • installation of the reinforcement frame (two levels of reinforcement, thickness of the rods 12-16 mm, distance from the ends of the reinforcement to the formwork - 5 cm, fastening with tying wire, since welding reduces the strength of the metal at the joints);
  • pouring concrete mixture with uniform distribution of material over the surface;
  • removing air bubbles from monolithic concrete.

To gain strength slab foundation it takes 1.5 months; during hardening, the concrete should be protected from precipitation and hot sun. The thickness of the slab is selected depending on the characteristics of the structure; for a house made of logs, a base up to 30 cm thick is sufficient.

Please note:

  • The construction of a brick oven in a house with a monolithic foundation is problematic - due to uneven heating of the slab, the reinforced concrete will begin to collapse. It is required either to use a reliable heat insulator, or to provide a “window” in the monolithic slab at the design stage for arranging an independent base for the furnace.
  • An extension to a house on a monolithic slab should be built on the same foundation - when choosing a different type, there is a high risk of deformation of the extension (and at the same time the main frame) due to uneven movements of the base.

Columnar design

The columnar foundation is one of the most economical. When choosing such a base, consider the following factors:

  • suitable only for stable soils, not prone to frost heaving, with low groundwater levels;
  • the difference in surface height of the construction site should be no more than 2 m;
  • suitable for the construction of one-story buildings of a small area due to limited load-bearing capacity.

The arrangement of the base consists of preparing pits for each column with a gravel-sand compacted cushion and a waterproofing layer of roofing material. The depth of the pit should be below the soil freezing level.

The posts are located at each corner of the frame, at the intersection of partitions and walls, under the jambs, in increments of 1.5-2 m under long walls. The surfaces of the posts should form a horizontal plane.

Columns are made:

  • made of brick or stone laid on mortar;
  • from asbestos pipes (reinforcement is installed inside and concrete is poured);
  • made of monolithic reinforced concrete;
  • from ready-made reinforced concrete blocks.

If the supports are installed in soil that is not prone to movement, compact building made from logs will last a long time.

Pile, pile-screw foundation

According to the principle of operation, a pile foundation is similar to a columnar one, only special elements designed for high loads are used as supports. The method of driving piles into the ground depends on the type of element. The advantages include the possibility of construction on a site with a large difference in heights, and the absence of the need to carry out extensive excavation work.

The advantages of pile foundations include the ability to install on difficult soils. For heavy capital buildings, reinforced concrete piles are used, but the foundation for a house made of logs does not require serious financial costs for the piles themselves and the equipment for their installation; it is enough to use screw ones.

Screw piles are steel pipes with special blades at the lower end for easy immersion of the element into the ground. The special coating protects the metal from corrosion. In order for the building to stand for a long time, piles with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm are chosen and the metal is additionally processed at the boundary of the soil and the atmosphere - this is the most vulnerable area.

The diameter of the piles is selected depending on the size of the base and the number of storeys of the building, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the soil, otherwise when immersing the screw element there is a risk of pipe deformation. A deformed pile does not properly perceive and transmit loads, which reduces the strength of the foundation.

Screw piles are used on any type of soil (including loose) with the exception of swampy and rocky ones. The process of arranging the foundation includes:

  • for installation of piles according to the project;
  • digging recesses for piles;
  • screwing in piles using hand tools or a special mechanism;
  • control of the verticality of elements, cutting off protruding parts in such a way that a horizontal plane is formed;
  • welding mounting plates or construction of a monolithic reinforced concrete grillage.

Screw piles – good option for construction on slopes, on soft soils, in conditions of close water occurrence.

Monolithic strip base

This type of foundation is in demand when building on gravel, sandy-rocky and sandy soil. The depth of laying the foundation is determined taking into account the soil’s tendency to frost heaving - for heaving soils it is about 1.5 meters, for non-heaving soils it is 60-80 cm.

The width of the tape should exceed the width of the wall and be at least 30-40 cm. When designing a foundation for a log house, it is recommended to pay attention to the width of the free edge of the foundation tape on the inside after the construction of the log house. A width of 12 cm or more will make it possible to lay wooden floor joists without cutting into the lower crowns.

The monolithic reinforced concrete strip has a closed contour; support is provided under external walls and partitions.

Construction of the belt monolithic base provides:

  • site preparation (removal of fertile soil layer, leveling);
  • marking and digging a trench, laying a sand and gravel cushion;
  • formwork fastening;
  • installation of a reinforcement frame made of embossed rods with a cross-section of 10-12 mm, fastened with knitting wire;
  • uniform pouring of the concrete mixture and removal of air bubbles.

A freshly poured foundation is protected from drying out in the heat and getting wet in the rain. Strengthening takes about a month.

The advantages of a strip monolithic foundation include: uniform distribution of loads from building structures on the soil, resistance to deformation, cost-effectiveness in comparison with the slab option, the possibility of arranging a cellar.

Prefabricated strip base

A strip foundation for a log house using ready-made reinforced concrete blocks allows you to reduce construction time, since there is no need to install formwork, reinforcement cage and wait for the concrete to gain strength. Reinforced concrete blocks are laid on a prepared sand and gravel bed.

A solution is used to fasten the elements together. Foundation walls made of blocks are built according to the principle of building brick walls - the elements are laid staggered.

The dimensions of the blocks are selected in accordance with the size of the building. For small buildings, it is enough to choose compact blocks weighing up to 30 kg - no construction equipment is required for their installation.

Reinforced concrete blocks with special additives or fillers make it possible to build a foundation with increased resistance to aggressive traces (for acidic soils) and increased frost resistance.

Conclusion

The foundation for a log house is selected based on the ratio of functionality and cost. In this case:

  • the columnar foundation is not strong and reliable enough for a permanent construction;
  • recessed strip base and monolithic slab– material-intensive options, they are redundant for wooden construction.

TO optimal options include:

  • shallow-depth strip base;
  • screw base with or without grillage ( lower crown The log frame can be laid on mounting platforms on piles; the resulting structure has sufficient rigidity if the recommended spacing between supports is observed).

The selected foundation should be installed in accordance with the work technology - the reliability and durability of the foundation depends on this.

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