Homemade wooden door. How to make an entrance and interior wooden door with your own hands: manufacturing diagram

If you are wondering: how to make interior doors yourself? Then, either you are an incorrigible needleworker, no life thinker without making anything, or your design ideas are so grandiose and enchanting that among thousands of models of ready-made doors you could not choose the right one. In both cases, it is worth soberly assessing your capabilities, having experience working with wood and carpentry tools, and being prepared for the fact that the door drawn in the sketch in reality will be strikingly different from the drawing.

In the 21st century, making doors yourself is exotic, akin to weaving bast shoes or baskets from willow twigs. But since there are people who still remember how to do this, it means that there is a need for their skill.

Types of interior doors

Do not overestimate your potential and take on the production of panel doors if you do not have access to a professional carpentry equipment. It is impossible to achieve the required precision in manufacturing parts using hand or electric saws, jigsaws, drills and grinders.

It’s easier to make a panel interior door. The manufactured door leaf can be equally suitable for swing doors and various sliding doors. At the same time, you will not be tied to existing size standards in house construction at all and will be able to make doors to fit any doorway, and of any, most intricate shape. At least like a hobbit’s hole – round.

When you have decided on the concept of the future door, you need to take measurements of the doorway in which your masterpiece will be installed.

Required material

To make panel doors you can use the most various materials: wood, plywood, fiberboard, plastic panels, drywall. Moreover, they can be either framed or frameless.

A block of wood that is not the same can be used as a frame. high quality, the only requirement is that it be dry and have no visible curvature along the length or twisting along the axis. Can be used as a filler between facing layers mineral insulation or expanded polystyrene, according to SanPiN requirements, suitable for use in residential premises.

If you want to make a panel frameless interior door, then you will need to calculate required quantity lumber by the area of ​​the door leaf and convert the resulting value into cubic meters, since in most stores lumber is sold in cubic meters. It's not difficult to do it yourself.

At standard size An interior door 800x2000 mm has an area of ​​1,600,000 mm². Standard thickness according to GOST – 40 mm. Multiply 16,000,000 x 40 = 640,000,000 mm³. And since 1 m³ contains 1 billion millimeters, we divide the resulting value 640,000 00: 1,000,000,000 = 0.064 m³.

In a similar way, you can calculate the need for filler.

Necessary tool

The work will require a fairly large number of different tools. It is advisable that you have:

  • Circular saw (option - jigsaw, although smooth saw you will never get it).
  • Electric drill (option: a screwdriver, powerful enough to drill holes and use feather drills for wood).
  • Electric sander - if you are planning to make a laminated panel door from solid wood.
  • Hand saw for wood.
  • Set of chisels.
  • Set of feather drills for wood.
  • Screwdriver with replaceable bits.
  • Clamps (4-6 pcs.).
  • Hammer.
  • Mallet.

  • Planer with a blade width of at least 40 mm.
  • Rubber spatula.
  • Paint brushes of various widths.
  • Gun for polyurethane foam.
  • Gun for sealant (acrylic).
  • Measuring tools: level, tape measure, plumbing or carpentry angle, metal ruler 1000 mm.
  • Consumables: screws, nails, anchors, plastic and wooden dowels.

Manufacturing of frame panel doors

A frame panel door implies the presence of a wooden frame that has a contour around the perimeter of the door and several transverse elements connecting the long sides of the door in order to impart rigidity to the structure and the possibility of installing fittings. Usually one additional element is located at the level of the future door handle.

Initially, two identical panels are cut exactly to size from plywood (laminate, fiberboard, MDF) exactly to the size of the door. Then two long and three to four short pieces are cut from a block or board. When cutting out workpieces, you should strive to maintain the 90° angle of the transverse elements as accurately as possible, since they must fit tightly across the entire width of the workpiece vertical elements without forming a gap. This will affect the geometry of the door and its strength.

The simplest is an adhesive joint on furniture spikes (wooden). To do this, drill 2-3-4 holes (depending on the width) from the end of a short (transverse) piece to a depth of ½ the length of the tenon, lubricate them with wood glue and hammer them in with a hammer until they are completely seated in the hole.

Holes are drilled in the same way inside long blanks, at the level of which the horizontal frame parts will be located. To be 100% sure that the holes will match, drilling of all holes is carried out according to a pre-made stencil: which can be made from aluminum corner with a shelf of 40 mm. or any thin sheet metal.

After installing the tenons on both sides in the short (transverse parts), they are laid out on a flat surface, the protruding tenons and ends of the parts are lubricated with glue and the long part is applied to them so that the tenons fit into drilled holes. Using a mallet, the long part is hammered evenly along its entire length until the tenons are completely immersed in it. The second long part is glued in the same way. After this, it is necessary to use long clamps or a tightening device laminate flooring pull long parts together with as much force as possible.

When gluing, it is not the amount of glue that is important, but the compression force of the parts being glued!

After the glue has dried, first the bottom panel of the sheathing is glued, then the filler is placed in the voids and also fixed with glue, and the assembly is completed by gluing the top sheet. Immediately after this, it is necessary to ensure that the panels being glued are pressed tightly by placing a weight on the door or pulling them with clamps through the placed transverse boards at the bottom and top.

When the glue has dried, the canvas is cleaned with sandpaper to remove any glue drips, the irregularities along the edges of the workpieces are sanded, if necessary, they are primed around the perimeter, wiping out any existing cracks and irregularities using a rubber spatula. After the primer has dried, it is treated again with fine sandpaper and wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust.

The canvas is ready for further finishing with the selected material or for painting.

Assembly of a frameless solid wood door

For such doors, lumber of the required thickness is selected and preferably even in texture, without a large number of knots and defects on the surface. If possible, calibrate by thickness (discrepancy no more than 1 mm). The base is a sheet of plywood or other material. On it, a sheet of lumber sawn along the length is laid out so that it evenly covers the entire surface of the sheet.

The sheet on which the layout was made is smeared over the entire area with wood glue and selected pieces of lumber are laid out on it tightly to each other, while their end sides adjacent to each other are smeared with glue. After all the workpieces have been completely laid out, they must be tightened with clamps or a tie for floor boards (laminate) and a load placed on top, or the boards placed across the door must be tightened with short clamps.

After the glue has dried, the door is processed with a plane along the long side - excess lumber is removed to the required width, then sanded with a grinder to completely equalize possible differences in the thickness of the lumber blanks.

This results in a door that has a base on one side and a wooden surface made of solid wood which can be stored in natural form or also covered with some decorative material.

Doors made of plastic panels

The manufacture of such doors is advisable for rooms with high humidity (baths, toilets, pantries for vegetables and balcony closets, etc.

Essentially these are the same frame panel doors, the difference is that assembled frame must be smaller sizes door frame by 15 -20 mm. This is necessary so that after assembling the covering consisting of plastic panels, it is possible to sheathe the door around the perimeter of the thin wooden slats, which will cover the honeycomb structure of the plastic panels at the ends.

Before installing plastic panels, it is necessary to treat the frame with solutions that prevent the development of mold and, preferably, soak it in hot drying oil.

After installing the panels and nailing the slats around the perimeter. Such doors do not require additional finishing or painting. It will only be necessary to varnish the rail or paint it to match the color of the plastic panels.

Let's sum it up

Homemade interior doors are more of a whim than a necessity. Those rare cases when it is impossible to pick up in a store ready-made option, or order the production of doors according to custom sizes For professionals, this is a reason to change the design concept of the room rather than take on such labor-intensive work with an unpredictable result.

Replacing a door is expensive. You have to pay for guaranteed quality. Cheap door from an unknown manufacturer is always a risk: the fabric delaminates, the lining comes off. You can avoid these troubles and big expenses if you make a simple door yourself. How to make a door with your own hands?

Tools and materials

1. Hacksaw.

2. Chisel.

3. Roulette.

4. Emery cloth.

5. Edged board, two pieces. Width 15 centimeters, thickness – 2.5.

6. Self-tapping screws.

7. Wood glue.

8. Fiberboard sheet or boards (you can make doors from solid birch) - the door manufacturing technology is similar.

9. Fittings: hinges for a swing door, rollers and guides for a sliding door. Handles, lock, limiters, closer.

10. If you plan to replace the door along with the frame, use timber for the frame.

11. You can make platbands yourself if you have carving skills. If not, buy ready-made ones.

12. Insulation, if needed.

Attention: boards must be smooth and well dried, fiberboard must be free of defects.

Fabrication

Before making a door with your own hands, you need to take measurements:

Video “How to make a wooden door from fiberboard”:

1. Measure the opening. In accordance with this, calculate the dimensions of the canvas. If there is no threshold between the canvas and the floor, a gap of 1 centimeter should be left. If you are planning a sliding door, the width of the door should be a couple of centimeters larger than the opening.

2. Cut two fiberboard blanks according to the width of the canvas and 5 blanks for the frame: two in height, three in width. Sand it.

3. Place the fiberboard on the floor, face down. First, vertical blanks are placed on it, and horizontal ones are placed on top. The boards should be at right angles to each other. The middle one should be placed on the site of the future castle.

Video “How to make a door with your own hands from boards”:

4. Mark on the boards the places of future connections (grooves and tenons).

5. On the top and bottom crossbars, mark 3-4 points at equal intervals and drill holes for self-tapping screws.

6. Cut out the edges for the tenons to half the thickness of the board. Clean with a chisel.

7. Place on a sheet, adjust the joints.

8. Spread vertical boards wood glue, place on the sheet.

9. Lay the horizontal crossbars, adjust them, and secure them with self-tapping screws.

10. Put insulation.

11. Spread the frame with glue and attach a second piece of fiberboard. Press down with weights or secure with clamps.

12. Dry (about three days).

13. Paint or varnish.

How to install a wooden door

If the box doesn't change, installation includes next steps:

– for a swing door – inserting hinges into the frame and hinges into the door leaf;

– for sliding – fastening roller carriages to the canvas, and guides to the opening;

– installation/hanging of the canvas;

– marking for handle or lock;

– selection of grooves for the lock and strike plate;

Video “Do-it-yourself door installation”:

– installation of lock and handle;

– installation of limiters (required for sliding doors, optional for swing doors);

– installation of a closer on a sliding door;

– installation of platbands.

If the box changes, then you first need to assemble it and dismantle the old one.

When dismantling, remove the canvas from the hinges, make cuts on the old frame and remove it with a crowbar.

The new box should be assembled on the floor. In this case, it is better to embed the hinges into the box and the canvas on the floor: place the finished canvas in the box, make marks for the hinges, select the grooves and strengthen the hinges.

In this case, you need to ensure that the racks and the top crossbar of the box are joined at right angles. To connect all three parts, cuts are made at 45 degrees.

Installation begins door block. swing door together with the box they are placed in the opening, leveled in height and horizontally. Next, fix the box to the walls of the opening with self-tapping screws.

The frame for the sliding door is installed without the door leaf and leveled.

The gaps between the box and the walls of the opening are filled with polyurethane foam. To prevent the hardening foam from deforming the box, a fixing bar should be nailed to the bottom. After installation, the bar is removed.

Knowing how to make a door with your own hands, you can start working. The main thing is not to forget to soak protective compounds boards or mounted door.


For rural residents and owners country houses you have to be able to do things that many city dwellers don’t even know about: growing potatoes, plucking a chicken, lighting a stove, milking a cow. On the other hand, they don’t need this - the main thing in the city is to make good money, and everything you need can be bought in a store or ordered a service from numerous offices. However, many people dream of buying a house outside the city and getting out of the metropolis at least for the weekend. And then they have to learn professions that are almost unclaimed in an urban environment, for example, making a barn door. By the way, you will learn how to make a wooden door yourself from this article.

So, there are a lot of options for making a new door: when the old one has rotted or rusted, when they built some kind of door in, into a room, on. In our case, a small shed was built for household equipment, which also needed a door.

The cost of manufacturing a new one is several times less than the purchased one, and besides, stores sell doors of certain sizes, to which the openings must be adjusted, which is not very convenient. It’s easier to have the one you need and make a door leaf for it yourself.

They begin to build the door by measuring the perimeter of the opening. Our dimensions are 190 by 80 cm. Convenient in both height and width. Now you need to select boards of arbitrary width, and no less in length doorway. The number of tesins does not matter, the main thing is that when folded together they are wider than 80 cm. The thickness of the tesins is 2.5 cm. Let's cut them circular saw, making the length 190 cm.

We decided to cover the front part of the door leaf with clapboard. Therefore, we plan the side of the boards that will look inside the barn with a plane.

Let's connect the strips together and measure the width of the canvas. Next, so that the gaps do not diverge, we will tighten them with a wooden plank, screwing it to the first and last board. Let's make marks with a pencil and cut the blade with a circular saw to a width of 79.5 cm, 5 mm less than the opening. It is necessary to create a gap so that the canvas does not touch the jamb. We will also make the length 189.5 cm.

Let's unscrew the bar and determine which side the door will open from - right or left. This is done in order to understand which board the lock should be installed in. In our case, it will be a mortise device with handles and a latch. When making doors from boards, I always immediately cut out a place for a lock in the outermost board, and not later, in assembled door. It's much easier, faster and more convenient.

First, we mark the gap by circling the lock body with a pencil. Then feather drill suitable size Let's drill a hole in it.

It is difficult to make a recess for a lock in boards 25 mm thick without damaging the walls. But in the future, when finishing the canvas with clapboard, all the holes will be closed. It is better to work out the place for the lock with a narrow, well-sharpened chisel. Immediately you need to drill through holes for attaching the lock handles and cut out a place for the key. Insert the lock into the recess and check its operation with the key.

Next you can assemble the door leaf. Let's connect the boards together and align them.

Let's cut a piece of lining to the width of the canvas and use short nails with narrow heads to nail it to the planks. We cut the lining of the same size, insert it into the previous one and nail it.

Plank by plank, we cover the entire door. After the lining is nailed, we will take grinder and polish the edges of the door around the perimeter, removing unevenness and roughness. Let's turn the door upside down and carefully sand its inside. Don't forget to drill holes for the key and handles of the lock in the place where they were covered with clapboard.

The gaps between the boards on the inside can be decorated with a 25 mm wide layout. It can be nailed around the perimeter, thereby closing the holes during the locking process.

We paint the door on both sides with varnish with the addition of natural wax. This is the best paint composition for doors installed outdoors and exposed to natural precipitation. The wax prevents the absorption of moisture and the door does not swell during humid weather.

After the varnish has dried, you can install the hinges. In our case, arrow loops are used, in old style. We will place them on the door leaf, make marks, drill through holes and secure them with furniture bolts with semicircular heads. We will install larger washers on the inside so that the nuts do not crush the wood and tighten the hinges with the nuts using a wrench.

Next we move on to the opening in the barn. We screw a wooden strip 5 mm high onto the threshold. This is done so that during installation of the hinge the door rests on this bar. When we screw the hinges and remove it, the door leaf will sag a little, but still won’t touch the threshold when opening and closing.

At this moment, it is necessary to install the canvas in the opening and wedge it, for example, with an ax, so that it does not move.

Next we straighten the second part of the loops, make markings and drill 3 holes for each loop. We remove the ax, take the bolts and tighten them with nuts. The barn door is installed.

Next, we secure it and install the handles. On door jamb First we mark it, then we select a recess for the latch and then we screw the locking plate. We check the operation of the lock with a key.

Now, if you close the door, it will flow into the barn because there is nothing holding it. To eliminate this problem, we will nail along the perimeter of the opening wooden planks 1.5 cm high. They act as a stop and protect the shed from snow entering the gap between the door and the jamb. There should be a small gap. Doors installed outdoors may slightly increase or decrease in size depending on the weather. Varnish with the addition of wax significantly reduces this probability, but still, you need to play it safe and leave gaps of 5 mm.

That's all, making and installing the door yourself is finished. Such canvases, made from pine boards, will serve for many years. From time to time they need to be tinted and the hinges lubricated, no further maintenance is required.

VIDEO

The modern market offers doors made of various materials, but wooden doors remain the most popular. They are installed in residential premises and outbuildings. There are various options, differing in complexity and manufacturing method. For bathhouses and sheds, ordinary panel panels are suitable, but entrance panels are made with panels.

Homemade doors are available for execution at home. Should have quality material And necessary tools. They make simple drawings and get to work. The process takes place step by step, with instructions to help novice craftsmen.

Features of products of different types

A wooden door does not lose its popularity due to the warmth of the material, environmentally friendly cleanliness and amazing natural beauty. Elite specimens and the simplest ones are made from boards, but of varying quality and purity of processing. Each type of wood also has certain properties.

When starting production, it is determined where the product will be installed. Door leaves have different types of construction, each of which is most suitable for specific purposes. You should familiarize yourself with what each type is.

Made from solid wood

The material is thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, which are connected in one plane, forming a flat surface. The result is a shield, the individual elements of which are fastened together by horizontal or inclined jumpers, making the structure more rigid.

Use wood of uniform quality, taking into account the installation location. For the front door to the house, choose a dense one with a beautiful textured pattern.

It has these qualities:

  1. 1. Oak – it produces the strongest, heaviest and most durable products. The material is difficult to process, but is little affected by changes in humidity and temperature.
  2. 2. Walnut is an inexpensive wood with a beautiful, unique structure that can be given any shade. It polishes beautifully in a way that no other breed can match.
  3. 3. Ash – has a wide range of shades. It is as strong as oak and very elastic.
  4. 4. Cherry – much softer and easy to process. The beautiful pinkish-brown color darkens over time.

For interior doors They use boards from the same species, as well as less valuable ones. Operating conditions are much easier, so pine is often used. It is affordable, but very sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. Products made from it often dry out or swell, but in a stable microclimate it is a completely acceptable material.

Alder has excellent qualities. It is resistant to water, but this is not all its advantages - the wood contains many tannins that have a beneficial effect on human health, and there are no resins at all. This has long been appreciated; doors made from it are excellent for bathhouses and in all places where high humidity. In addition to the listed breeds, others are also used, but the properties and conditions are always taken into account in order to produce high-quality products.

Paneled models

To make a door with your own hands, use boards or timber, but in modern conditions The material obtained by gluing lamellas is often used. After finishing with veneer it acquires texture natural wood. It is quite difficult to visually distinguish it from an array if it is of high quality.


The structure has a rigid frame made of laminated veneer lumber or thick floorboards. Individual elements are fastened with spikes, but now dowels are used more. When creating a door, take into account important points:

  • the strength of the canvas depends on the number of transverse parts;
  • panels that are two-thirds thinner are installed in the frames;
  • the materials are boards, plastic, MDF, plywood, glass;
  • secured with natural or veneered glazing beads, which gives the product a finished aesthetic appearance.

The ways to design paneled doors are practically unlimited. Their designs are very diverse and can decorate any apartment. The main part of the canvas is thin, so the most rational use is installation between rooms.

For production they are used durable materials, products last no less than those made from solid wood. Of particular value are specimens made from the same natural wood or decorated with the same veneer.

Panel structures

This budget option with a low price, which is due to the use of low-value wood species, fiberboard, laminate. If made with high quality, the products have a completely acceptable appearance, which depends to a large extent on the cladding. The design comes in three types:

  • solid ones are completely filled with timber, which are fastened together;
  • hollow consist of a frame, cross members, sheathed sheet material;
  • low-hollow - an intermediate option between the previous two.

The appearance is dramatically improved by the use of linden or alder plywood for covering. Two layers of 24 mm are required. This good basis for decorative finishing that does not deform. The cladding is complemented with profile overlays.

The ends are made neat and continuous, using smooth, well-processed timber, the color and texture of which matches external design. If natural veneer is used, its layers are laid perpendicular to each other. The fibers of decorative plywood are also arranged in a similar way.


Depending on the quality of finishing, panel doors are installed as interior doors, in wardrobe closet, bathroom, utility room. They are easily hacked, so they can only be used temporarily as input.

Preparation for work - materials, tools

At the first stage, suitable wood is selected. It must meet the requirements:

  • have no knots at all or very few;
  • be well dried, with a residual moisture content of 12–15%;
  • flat surface - check the tightness of the sidewalls;
  • the optimal thickness is 50 mm for an entrance door, from 25 for an interior door.

The boards are sanded before use. Deciduous and conifers. For front doors they use hard ones - oak, beech, walnut, in other cases - mostly soft ones.


Surface finishing is carried out in various ways: natural, artificial materials, varnishes and paints are used.

Tools you will need:

  • Manual milling machine. They give a profile look to the elements and make groove connections.
  • Portable circular saw. It is used to cut the bars into pieces of the required size.
  • Grinder with grinding wheel. You can use a drill with an attachment for this purpose, but the processing will be of less quality.
  • Screwdriver for assembling the door leaf.
  • Carpenter's hand tools - measuring tools, mallet, hammer, chisel, square, etc.

Making a door from solid wood

At the heart of any model is a shield made of boards, correctly assembled so that it does not move. Use various types harnesses: Z- or X-shaped, double, triple. The scope of application is different: entrance door, interior door, for utility rooms. If it is intended for an apartment, use tongue-and-groove boards to achieve a perfectly flat and smooth surface. A pattern is applied to the canvas, and the relief is cut out with a milling cutter. For the bathhouse and the barn, simply adjust the elements, and attach the crossbars in the back in the form of the letter Z.


When starting work, mark the material and cut the pieces to the required length. Then they are placed in a shield, placed so that the annual rings are directed in one direction. For tongue-and-groove boards, the tenon in the end element is cut off and the end is processed. Connect using wood glue and a lock. The assembled product is clamped with clamps and left to dry. After a few days, sand to a perfectly smooth surface.

If desired, the door is made of several layers of boards, gluing each next one perpendicular to the previous one. In this way, a massive structure is obtained, suitable for the entrance to the house. The thickness allows you to choose a deep relief pattern with a cutter that will decorate the product.


Next you need to fasten the shield with strapping. The simplest type is three crossbars. Cut bars equal in length to the width of the door. On the back side of the canvas, places for the grooves are marked - the finished parts are applied and outlined with a pencil. Mark the depth, which is chosen at ½ or ⅟3 of the thickness of the board. Using the marks, grooves are selected using a router. It makes them perfectly even, the bars will fit into place easily but tightly. They push it in, tapping it with a mallet. Glue is pre-applied.


The front side can be decorated with a relief design if desired. It is applied with a pencil, you can use templates. Knives of various configurations are used, which are alternately installed on the tool, slowly choosing a pattern.

The door leaf is processed antiseptics. If it is installed outdoors, it is additionally used with a water-repellent effect. When it is necessary to change the color or artificially age it, use stain. It is applied to the wood until the desired darkening appears. Additionally coated with transparent varnish.


The finished product is hung on hinges. It's heavy, and you'll need outside help. When installed in a doorway, gaps are left as shown in the figure. The parameters apply to any type of canvas.

Products with panels - an affordable way

These are the most complex designs, but if you use ready-made insert panels made of laminated chipboard, the process will be simplified. It is easy to make such doors with your own hands step by step, following the recommendations. But first, drawings of individual elements are prepared indicating the exact dimensions. Using them, there will be no problems with assembling individual parts into a single whole.

Such models are most suitable as interior ones. They buy boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more, high-quality ones, but the species is not necessarily expensive. Budget pine will serve well indoors, because the climate here is constant.


  1. 1. Arm yourself with a grinder with a grinding wheel and carefully polish the material. Only a wide surface is processed; the sidewalls will subsequently be formed by a milling cutter. It is used to cut off the sharp edges of corners, but only slightly, giving a beautiful look.
  2. 2. Change the knife and select a groove along the entire length of the board on one side. Its width is chipboard thickness, usually 16 mm. Strictly adhere to the dimensions and center of the end. The optimal depth is 15–20 mm.
  3. 3. Manual circular saw cut the ends at 45° on all four boards. You should be very careful about two things: strictly adhere to the dimensions and cutting angle. Side racks The standard frame height is 200 cm, and the upper and lower crossbars correspond to the width of the canvas.
  4. 4. Cut out the chipboard for the panel. Its dimensions are calculated according to internal size opening to which double the depth of the groove is added. If desired, intermediate partitions are installed, in which recesses along the entire length are also selected, and small spikes are made at the ends.
  5. 5. Assembly is very simple: boards are hammered onto the stove with a mallet, no glue is used. Make sure that everything is in place, there are no gaps, deviations from the parameters, or distortions. Drill holes and install confirmations - special metal mount, which is located below and above.

The door with panels is ready, you can start finishing. But all the fittings are installed in front of it - locks, handles, hinges, so as not to damage it later decorative coating.

Panel version for various applications

The most simple design is possible for almost anyone who has required material And good tool. The scope of work depends on the chosen model and purpose. If this sliding door coupe type, special attention pay attention to the quality of finishing and material. Work begins with the frame, then the internal space is filled - all or partially. For the frame, blanks are cut from 30x120 mm boards. Their sizes correspond to the future canvas.

To connect, use the simple “half-tree” method. On the edges on each side, mark the width of the parts, make cuts to half the thickness with a hand hacksaw. Using a chisel, carefully select the wood. The work is performed on flat surface, check the corners. The grooves are coated with glue and connected, leaving them without moving. After drying, they are fastened with dowels, drilling 8 mm holes.

One side is covered with sheet material. Cheap fiberboard is suitable for the first layer. The frame is laid on it, marked and cut. Remove the frame, apply glue to the panel, press both parts together and leave to dry. For strength, you can insert additional partitions. After drying, the inside is filled with various waste - pieces of wood, MDF and the like. Everything is glued together, a second sheet is installed on the back side.


Decorative finishing is applied taking into account where the door will be used. If it is interior, decorate with veneer, laminate or use other available options. The cladding cut to size is glued onto the fiberboard. It is advisable to lay a press on top, for example, sandbags or tiles. Sliding structures they are made hollow so as not to weigh them down. To install them you will need special fittings.

Another way is to use slats. They are fastened with self-tapping screws, the caps are hidden under sawdust mixed with glue. After drying, polish. Attention is also paid to the ends and corners - they are processed with a milling cutter to give a finished look.

If you need to install handles and locks, think about it in advance. Perhaps the body of the side frame beam is not enough. Then a piece of good quality wood is glued to the place where the fittings are inserted.

Wood as a natural material has been popular at all times. Its valuable properties as a natural raw material have been appreciated by many generations. Natural solid wood is still actively used in construction: durable, safe and beautiful doors. Structures made for outbuildings and residential buildings are made according to the same scheme; they will differ only in the features of the cladding, the originality of the fittings and reinforcing parts. They differ in style and installation location. Do-it-yourself wooden doors are unique, interesting and original. To do them correctly, you must strictly follow the main installation steps.

Solid wood doors are highly durable and well insulate the room from noise.

Wooden structures are manufactured in the following options:

  • paneled;
  • panel;
  • deaf from the array;
  • with stained glass windows.

Input and interior options are presented as canvases with a blank coating or with additional elements from hardened glass elements. These details serve a decorative role. Panel doors are used as interior samples. Top layer wood is most often processed using varnish or veneer.

Preliminary preparation for work

You can make a door from solid wood yourself by preparing a number of necessary devices:

  • plane;
  • hacksaw;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • roulette;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • wood glue;
  • sandpaper;
  • screwdrivers or screwdriver;
  • grinding machine.

Care should be taken to select quality wood. For these purposes, pine, spruce, larch, oak, and ash are best suited. However, when choosing hard types of wood, it is worth considering that difficulties may arise with their processing at home. Most suitable for self-made soft breeds.

The solid wood used must be well dried, smooth, and the presence of large knots and cracks is not allowed. In order for natural raw materials to acquire the required humidity levels, in sunny and dry weather they are laid out outside for a period of 14 days.

The number of strips used is determined by the type of fabric. So, the panel door requires minimum quantity material, while the deaf variety needs to be increased.

Next, the opening is measured. 8 mm is added to the obtained figures if a threshold is required. After this, you can make a box on which the door is fixed. The opening consists of two slats vertical view and the same number of crossbars. Their plane is created for the placement of fastening spikes on it. Using a hacksaw and a knife, openings are made with tenon and groove fastenings. Then they are secured with glue.

The dimensions of the door leaf should be 3 mm smaller than the dimensions of the frame. This way the structure will open and close freely. For doors, a single sheet of natural covering or fiberboard is taken. It is advisable to carry out the manufacturing process of the structure on a flat horizontal surface.

First, the dimensions of future products are compared. To make the box, a timber is used, the thickness of which is 5 cm and the width is 10 cm.

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This important detail is fixed to the doorway, it serves as a starting point for attaching the panel. To give this element maximum strength, it is made of wood. It looks like two vertical racks and the same number of crossbars. Connection points and locations of connecting grooves are marked on their surface. Using a hacksaw and a knife, openings are made similar to a tongue-and-groove joint. After this, they are lubricated with adhesive and tightly connected. The finished canvas is inserted into a given space and fixed at the base of the wall with self-tapping screws.

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Manufacturing of door leaf

If the structure is made of solid wood, you can buy it at a construction supermarket, since in a residential setting there will not be the equipment necessary for its production. It is done by adhesive connection timber and planks.

It is most convenient to carry out such activities on the floor:

  • the prepared material is laid out on a flat plane, and small-sized vertical and horizontal lumber is placed here;
  • The connection points of the boards are marked with a pencil, the joining angle should be 90°;
  • the longest parts are used for sawing out tenons on their surface; you should be especially careful and careful in your work, the connection of the parts must certainly be smooth;
  • a groove hole is made in the end part of small boards, a tenon is made from the inside, the number of such elements can be one or two, it is most convenient for a non-professional to work with a simple tenon corresponding to half the thickness of the tree;
  • the tenon and groove joints are coated with an adhesive, then they are fastened with two pieces of fiberboard, resulting in a multi-layer structure;
  • the existing parts are connected with 25 mm self-tapping screws;
  • if necessary, the door should be dried for 3 days, a load is first placed on it, and as it dries, the outer layer is treated with a sanding machine.

Do entrance doors it is possible according to the same scheme. The only difference is in the insulation of the device. For such purposes, thin mineral wool plates are used. More reliable protection can be obtained by placing an iron plate inside such a device, the thickness of which corresponds to 2 mm. This is how armored ones are made wooden structures. After this, hinges and locks are attached to the canvas.

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Door insulation: features

Solid wood canvas can be insulated if desired.

For this purpose, the design is designed with internal and outside. From the inside of the door, empty spaces are filled with any material of a porous structure. It can be glass wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene, polyurethane foam. Do internal insulation possible using the following components:

  • a piece of foam rubber, the thickness of which corresponds to 1.5-2 cm;
  • artificial leather 25-30 cm long;
  • glue;
  • large scissors;
  • furniture stapler;
  • special nails.

It is best to veneer such a door with an assistant. The foam rubber is cut with a small margin, 8-10 cm more, then it should be glued to the canvas. The outer part is made of artificial leather, and it is important to ensure the same amount of material on all sides. The size of such a canvas corresponds to the dimensions of the door, from which 1 cm is subtracted. Here you will need an assistant to help pull the material onto the surface of the structure. A furniture stapler is used for fastening.

It is important to ensure that the fabric is pulled tightly; there should be no wrinkles or folds on it. The cut pieces of leatherette are stretched and fastened with staples along the edge of the canvas: first they are simply secured to the surface, then they are rolled up and nailed with furniture nails. The connection points of the vertical and horizontal strips are turned at an angle of 45° and fixed with nails.

Recommendation: to make the slot for the door handle look more attractive, make a hole at the back of the door, then use a sharp blade to make a cross-shaped slot, which must be pierced in the center.

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