How to dig wells by hand. How to properly dig a well with concrete rings

You can dig a well without hiring outside workers, with your own hands. You just need to study the step-by-step instructions.

Before construction, it is determined by what digging methods the work will be carried out: by alternately installing the upper rings or by finding the level of the aquifer. The method is chosen based on the depth of the water.

The method of sequential installation of rings is as follows. The ring is placed on the surface of the earth and they begin to select the soil inside. Over time, it itself sinks into the depths. To dig a level well, it is necessary to ensure strict verticality, otherwise, if there is a strong slope, the concrete sediment will stop. You can adjust this yourself by tying a plumb line and setting a level on top of the ring.

After the top edge is level with the soil, a second one is installed on the ring. The next ones are installed as necessary until the lower one drops to the aquifer. You can immediately install gaskets to seal the seams.

This method allows you to control the height and number of rings and not be afraid of soil shedding, since the digger is inside.

When performing this option, it must be taken into account that it is inconvenient for one person to dig and remove soil. It will be necessary to involve one more employee. You will also need some extra help when installing the rings on top.

The second method is to initially excavate the well shaft and then install concrete once the aquifer is reached. This method is easier when digging, a person is not cramped inside the ring. It is possible to make deeper shafts. The rings are installed when the walls begin to crumble. Several rings are sealed against flood and groundwater.

The disadvantages of this method are the following:

  • It is possible to miss the beginning of soil collapse, then the mine will suffer.
  • It is difficult to control the tightness of the structure; insulation is only possible from the outside.
  • The amount of earth to be filled between the shaft and the ring is uncontrollable, as is its density. Therefore, flood and rainwater may enter.

All work on the construction and operation of wells is carried out with mandatory compliance with safety regulations. It assumes:

Today it is easy to find a company that provides services for arranging a water source in summer cottage. Let's find out how much it costs to dig a well in a country house and how to carry out this operation.

Companies offer concrete rings along with digging. The price of work, including materials, is approximately 4,200 rubles. for each ring from the first to the tenth. The next ones will cost more, since they must be additionally strengthened to withstand soil pressure.

If the materials are yours, then you will pay about 2000 rubles. for each ring. It is also necessary to include costs for related materials, which will amount to approximately 1000 rubles.

Additional installation of a well head (well house) will cost about 5,000 rubles.

Before you start organizing a source, you need to choose its location correctly, since the quality of the water depends on this, as well as the duration of operation of the well.

Let's figure out where to dig a well in the country.

  • Water passing under the top layers of soil tends to become polluted. Therefore, you cannot build a source near a wastewater drain, garbage and compost heaps.
  • When constructing a well, it is important to take into account the hydrogeological situation. For example, water in a swampy area is not suitable for drinking, since high water will penetrate into the well, along with which everything that comes in its way will enter the water.
  • It is advisable to locate the source near places of water consumption. This will reduce the cost of water supply. However, you should not make a well near the house; it should be at least five meters away from the home.

Now you need to decide when is the best time to dig a well in your dacha. The ideal period for organizing a water source is autumn - early winter, since at this time the lowest water level is observed.

It's hard to choose in spring suitable depth, since due to snow melting the water level fluctuates within 1-2 meters.

After the location of the future source has been chosen, the main steps begin. To make the work easier, it is recommended to use special devices and tools.

You will need a winch to lift the buckets, and you will also need to install a tripod through which a rope or rope will be thrown.

  1. Markings are made on the site intended for digging a well. It is taken into account that the diameter of the shaft should be 10 cm larger than the ring being installed.

It is difficult to immediately determine the required depth. Of course, you can focus on the well located nearby. But on average it takes about 8-12 rings.

  1. Next, they begin digging, and the rings are immersed one at a time, as the shaft is opened, to the appropriate depth, so that the ring rises 10-20 cm above the ground. The next ring is delivered to the work site on a cart that has a height corresponding to the protruding part of the ring. This will reduce the presence of a massive ring in weight to a minimum. The operation can be seen in the photo.
  1. After the first ring is immersed, the next ring is installed, whose weight forces the structure to sink down. The rings are fastened together with staples in the amount of at least three pieces. After installation, remove soil from the walls.
  1. When considering the question of how to dig a well at your dacha yourself, it is worth noting the methods for removing soil. There are two methods, the choice of which depends on the density of the earth. If it is soft, then it can be cut through and removed from the middle without any problems.

It will be difficult to manually dig a well with clay rock with your own hands; this will require the use of special tools.

  1. After installing two rings, the hole is deepened by 0.8 m, and the rings are dug in a circle so that they go deeper under their own weight. By laying hemp rope and applying a cement composition, the joints between the rings are sealed.
  1. The column is built up until water appears at the bottom. The liquid along with the sand is removed, and the well itself is left for twelve hours to allow it to fill with water.
  1. The next day I cleanse the source again. The procedure is carried out until a sufficient amount of relatively clean water is formed at the bottom. Cover the well with a lid and leave it for a day.
  2. Next, a filter is laid, consisting of a 10-centimeter layer of fine gravel and a thirty-centimeter layer of coarse gravel.

In order to know how to properly dig a well in a country house, you must not only be able to position the rings evenly, but also ensure their protection and reliable fastening.

The rings are connected with metal brackets, which are attached to bolts passing through the wall.

To prevent penetration of perched water into the source, the seam between the rings must be sealed with flax rope and cement mixture. Additionally, on the outside, after digging in the rings, a layer of waterproofing is fused along the seams or even along the entire wall.

Many are convinced that such activities worsen water quality, but these words should not be believed. Water can become worse only if the water penetrates through the seams, which after some time will still become unusable.

The space dug around the well is filled with blue clay, and foam plastic is laid to prevent it from freezing (photo).

Related articles:

  • How to dig a well

Heading – wooden house above the well, not only performs a decorative function, but also prevents water pollution, preventing wind-blown debris from getting inside.

  1. First, a frame is built from beams or boards. First, four racks are installed, which are connected by the upper and lower trim.
  1. To equip the roof, you will need to organize rafter trusses, onto which the sheathing will then be mounted.
  1. The rafters cut at an angle are connected to each other with self-tapping screws.
  1. Then cutouts are made on the rafters where they will be connected by strapping.
  1. Installing jibs allows you to strengthen the structure. The rafters are fastened together with two boards, which are then lathed.
  1. After this, they begin laying the roofing material, which can be used as roofing material.
  1. The final stage is the installation of slate, which is attached to the roofing felt with special fasteners. Corner joints are covered with wind boards.

After the main work on the construction of the house is completed, the installation of the door begins. It is a plank shield, the manufacture of which will not be difficult.

Cut the boards to the required sizes and connect them together wooden blocks with a cross section of 2.5x3 cm. For this, two bars on top and bottom of the door will be enough.

To ensure the rigidity of the structure, another bar is attached diagonally. After covering, the handle and latch are attached, the hinges are cut in and the door is installed on the house.

  1. As already stated, work on creating a well on your site begins with calculations and determining the location for digging.
  2. If you have already collected everything necessary information, you should start marking.
  3. After this, you need to start digging holes.
  4. It is necessary to dig to such a depth that the first ring, regardless of the type of installation (open or closed), does not go completely into the ground.
  5. As you already understand, the work is described using a closed installation method, due to the fact that it is much more common.
  6. After installing the first ring, there should be a protrusion of 10 centimeters. You can transport the ring into the dug hole using a cart. It should be the same height as the ledge. That is 10 centimeters. You must understand that even the installation of the first ring determines the quality of the future well. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully check its verticality. If the first ring is slightly distorted, further work may not go according to plan.
  7. Then the second concrete ring is installed. It is connected using special brackets.
  8. For two rings you will need at least three staples. Considering that the operating principle of the closed well installation method is to immerse the rings under their own pressure, it is necessary to dig a hole in the center of the rings.
  9. After installing the first two products, the structure should be deepened by 80 centimeters.
  10. After this, the rings are dug in a circle.
  11. If you are forced to work with soft soil, it must be removed from the middle of the ring. If we are talking about hard ground, then first you need to remove the soil under the rings. This will allow you to get rid of obstacles that may interfere with the immersion of the structure.
  12. After eliminating unnecessary soil and interference, you can work in standard mode, removing soil from the middle.
  13. To connect rings on soft ground, experts recommend using staples. Despite the existence of more modern designs - rings with locks, the above option is considered more optimal. This is due to the fact that rings with locks are not able to protect the rings from deformation in soft ground in winter. They start to move. The brackets provide for this process and do not allow the structure to move.
  14. As you dig a hole, it is necessary to process the joints of the strung rings. To do this, a special sealant is used and a tarred hemp rope is installed. Additionally, it can be sealed using cement mortar. The walls of the shaft should be built up until water is visible.
  15. After sealing the rings and sealing the cracks, the sides must be compacted with clay. Additionally, you can sprinkle with earth. This will protect the well from rainwater, pollutants and other unnecessary elements.

Even if the house is equipped with a centralized water supply, a well will not be superfluous, since watering flower beds or a vegetable garden tap water quite expensive, and in case of a shutdown it will be a good help. At the dacha, it is generally the only source of water. Digging wells is not an easy task, but it is doable. Even if you decide to involve a special team in this matter, you will still have to control them. You need to know how to dig a well with your own hands in a suburban area.

Most reliable way– this will apply for a hydrogeological study. They will tell you the exact place where it is best to dig a well from concrete rings, plus an analysis of the water that will be in the future well. But this service is not cheap and can only pay for itself if the water in the well is used as drinking water, that is, near a house with people permanently living in it. At a summer cottage, its necessity is intended mainly for technical needs, but for drinking water it can only be cleaned if it goes into the house.

If you are going to do without research, then you need to focus on some signs:

  • be guided by the position of the wells in the neighborhood - rock layers usually lie unevenly, and the situation is also the same with aquifers. If the water in the neighboring well is at a depth of 6 meters, this does not mean that the water in yours will be at the same level. It may turn out to be either higher or lower, or even go somewhere sharply to the side. So this is only an approximate “outline” of the project where well water may be located;
  • observing the behavior of animals and insects. The most accurate guide can be small midges. During the warm period, when there is no wind, inspect the area in the evening before sunset. If there are places on it where midges “hang” in pillars, this indicates that aquifers are located quite close in this place. To make sure of this, observe the marked area in the morning. If fog swirls over it in the morning, then the water is indeed quite close;
  • folk way. We take pottery. Unglazed is best. You can also use a regular saucepan, as long as it is wide. Oven-dried silica gel is poured into the selected container. If you don’t have it and you don’t know where you can get it, then you need to take it ceramic bricks, smash them until only small crumbs remain, and dry them in the oven for several hours. Then you need to pour it into the container to the top and tie it with a dry cotton cloth. Only in such a way that it doesn’t come undone. Weigh and record the resulting value. Then, at the site of the proposed well, dig a hole 1-1.5 meters deep, after which you need to place a vessel in the dug layer and cover it with earth. Wait a day. Then dig it up and weigh it again. The more the mass has changed, the greater the concentration of water in this place;
  • analyze the grass growing on the site - this method is well applicable only when the site has not yet been plowed. When inspecting vegetation, try to identify the most overgrown islands. You don’t need to pay special attention to single plants, since they can be brought here randomly; this method requires clearings and islands of vegetation.

These methods are only an approximate determination of the location of deposits aquifers, where you can dig wells from concrete rings. None of them gives a 100% guarantee, but if several methods are used, you can determine a more or less exact location and it is worth trying to dig a well in this exact place.

It is most favorable to dig a well twice a year: either in the second half of August, or in the middle of winter - after two weeks of frost. During these two periods, the lowest level of groundwater and high water practically does not occur. This will greatly facilitate the work; in addition, it will be much easier to determine the flow rate - during these periods it is at a minimum and in the future you will not experience a shortage of water.

If you decide to dig a well or dig a well yourself, you may not have enough time in August, since this is the “border zone” before the rainy season. In this case, you need to start work early. Maybe even at the beginning of the month. In general, you need to calculate the time of work in such a way that reaching the aquifer occurs during the most “waterless” period. Ideally, it is also advisable to deal with the waterproofing of the walls.


Two ways to dig a well from concrete rings

The most popular is the well design made of concrete rings. Its popularity is due to its simplicity. But at the same time, it has quite serious disadvantages: its joints with concrete rings are characterized by rather weak tightness and through them rain and melt water can enter the well, and together with them, both what is dissolved in it and what has drowned.

You can try to seal the joints of the rings, but the most effective methods cannot be used: the water must be suitable for at least irrigation. And sealing joints with a solution is quite ineffective and short-lived. Over time, the cracks widen and not only melted or rainwater, but also insects, worms, animals and so on.

There are special rings with a lock. Between them you can install rubber gaskets which will ensure tightness. Rings with locks are on sale. Although their price is much higher, it is almost impossible to find gaskets for them, as well as wells equipped with them.

How to properly dig a well at your dacha with your own hands? There are two methods for digging a well from concrete rings: installing the rings one at a time and installing them after the aquifer has been reached. Both methods are used, just at different depths and both have their drawbacks.

Alternate installation of rings. In this case, the first ring is installed on the ground, which is slowly removed from the inside and under the side. The ring gradually lowers. Very important point: you need to be very careful that it falls straight down, without distortions. Otherwise, the shaft will become inclined and, over time, the settlement of the rings will stop. To avoid distortion, you need to ensure that the walls are vertical. To do this, you just need to tie a plumb line to the block, after which the block is placed on the ring. For additional control, use a building level.

As soon as the upper edge of the ring is level with the ground, install the following. It is installed strictly from above. Work continues. If on the first ring the soil can be thrown over the side using a shovel with a short handle, then on the next ring the soil will have to be removed using a gate or a block and a tripod. Based on this, we can conclude that the work must be carried out by at least two people, and in order to move the rings, at least 3-4 people will be required. Thus, independent digging (one person) is impossible. Unless for this task you will need to adapt a winch.

Using this method, the depth of the well is gradually increased. As soon as the ring reaches the same level with the ground, a new one is installed on it. To descend, use driven brackets or ladders (the safest and most correct way is to use brackets).

The advantages of this method of digging a well:

  1. It is possible to control how evenly and how tightly the ring fits.
  2. It is possible to install rubber gaskets to ensure tightness or to place them on the solution.
  3. The walls do not crumble.

These were the advantages. Let's talk about the shortcomings. Working inside the ring is quite inconvenient and physically difficult. This method is used, as a rule, for shallow depths - 7-8 meters. Work in the mine must be done in turns.

One more point: when digging a well with rings, you can use a knife to speed up the subsidence process and facilitate the passage of soil. It is made of concrete and is poured into the ground at the very beginning. In order to make it in a circle, a groove is dug, which has a triangular shape in cross-section (see picture). Its internal diameter must match internal diameter The outer rings that will be used in the process are slightly larger. After the concrete has hardened, a standard ring is installed on this ring and work begins.


Knife structure

Installation of rings after reaching the aquifer. First you need to dig a shaft without rings. In this case, you need to watch the walls. As soon as the first signs of shedding begin to appear, rings are immediately installed inside and they continue to work according to the first method. Using a crane or manipulator, rings are placed into the shaft. Then they deepen it by several more rings using the first method, increasing the flow rate.

The soil is removed from the mine in the same way: while the depth is not very great, it is simply thrown out with a shovel. After that, a tripod and a gate are installed and lifted using buckets. As soon as the rings are installed, the gap between them and the walls of the shaft is filled and compacted. Several upper rings can be sealed from the outside (for this you can use bitumen impregnation or other coating waterproofing).

The advantages of this method:

  1. The mine is wider, which means that it is much more convenient to carry out work in it, which makes it possible to dig deeper wells.
  2. You can seal several of the top rings, which will reduce the chance of contaminated water entering the well.

There are significantly more disadvantages:

  1. It is difficult to control the tightness of the joint of the rings: being in the shaft during installation is strictly prohibited. It is impossible to rotate the ring already installed in the shaft due to its large mass.
  2. You can gape and the mine will crumble.
  3. The filling density of the gap between the shaft walls and the rings is less than the “native” soil. Because of this, it becomes possible for melt and rain water to seep deep, where through the cracks they can enter directly into the well. To prevent this, a protective circle is made around the well from a waterproof material (waterproofing membrane) with a slope away from the walls of the well.

During work, you need to monitor the verticality of the walls, but it can be corrected to a certain extent. The control method is the same - a beam with a plumb line attached to it and lowered into the shaft.

How do you know when to stop digging?

According to the technology, soil is removed inside and below the ring. Because of this, it settles under its own weight. The soil that is removed will serve as a guide. Usually the water is between two waterproof layers. This is often clay or limestone.

The aquifer is usually sand. It can be small, like sea water, or large with interspersed small pebbles. Most often there are several such layers. As soon as the sand begins to flow, it means that we should expect water soon. As soon as it appears at the bottom, you need to dig for some more time, removing the already wet soil.

If there is a strong influx of water, you can stop. The aquifer is not very large, since there is a chance to go through it. In this case, you will have to dig until the next one. The deeper, the cleaner the water will be, but how much deeper, no one can say for sure.

After this, the well is pumped - a submersible pump is installed and the water is pumped out. Thus, it is cleaned, deepening it a little, and in addition its flow rate is determined. If you are happy with the speed at which the water is rising, you can stop there. If not, you need to quickly go through this layer. The soil continues to be washed out with a running pump until this layer is passed. Then they dig to the next aquifer.

If you are satisfied with the incoming water and its quality, you can build a bottom filter. It consists of three layers of stones of different fractions, which are laid on the bottom. This is necessary to ensure that as little silt and sand enters the water as possible. For this filter to work, you need to place the stones correctly:

  1. The largest stones are placed at the very bottom. These are quite large cobblestones. But in order not to greatly reduce the height of the water column, it is better to use the flattest stones. They need to be laid out in two layers, and they do not need to be laid closely, but with small gaps.
  2. The middle fraction is poured in a layer of 10-20 cm. Their dimensions should be such that pebbles or stones do not fall into the gaps of the lower layer.
  3. The topmost shallowest layer. Pebbles and small stones in a layer of 10-15 cm. They are necessary for the settling of sand.

With such a mound of fractions, the water will be cleaner: first, the largest inclusions settle on large stones, and as you move upward, smaller ones become smaller.

Compliance with safety precautions during work

Digging a well, whether with your own hands or with a team, is quite dangerous and hard work, especially after the first three rings have been dug. Buckets need to be pulled out using a winch, winch or pulley, and they are quite heavy. There is a risk that the rope may break or the handle may fail. Because of this, you must follow the safety rules:

  1. Anyone working below must wear a helmet.
  2. The buckets should have a fairly strong handle; for insurance, it is better to weld it, making it from thick wire in several layers.
  3. Buckets must be tied to a strong rope, at the end of which a powerful carabiner must be attached with a reliable fixation.
  4. From time to time check the condition of the bucket handle, rope and carabiner.
  5. When lifting buckets, the person working below should be on the opposite side.
  6. Work downstairs one by one.

Precautions are not unnecessary. Better to play it safe.

After the earthworks, installation of the pump and pumping, which lasts at least 2 weeks, are completed, finishing work can begin, namely decorative design head. Many people leave the top concrete ring unchanged. In order to decorate the top part, you can use a brick a natural stone or ceramic tiles. Folk craftsmen build small wooden log houses, install “cranes” as decorative elements, and construct carved canopies.

Based on the article, in order to build a well yourself, you will first need to make sure of the aquifers, choose the right location, decide on the design and follow safety precautions. The rest all depends on your free time and your skills.

How to dig a well correctly

How to dig a well correctly

Since ancient times, wells have been a constant, renewable source of drinking water and water for domestic needs. Despite its simple appearance, few people know how to choose the right place for it and how to properly dig a well. But you can learn all these wisdom on your own.

well diagram

Choosing a place for a well

In order to choose the right place for a well on your site, you just need to follow nature. As a rule, aquifers come close to those places where there is thick and tall grass, where there is heavy dew in the morning and fog in the evenings. There are also quite exotic folk methods of choosing a place, for example, using a pendulum or exploring with a vine.

aquifer

The easiest way to determine the presence of an aquifer is to check whether your neighbors have a well. Aquifers usually extend over several square kilometers and the risk of making a mistake in this case is minimal. But when choosing a place for a well “in an open field,” it is still better to drill an exploration well first.

But when choosing a location for a well, it is also important to take into account sanitary rules. The well on your site should be located as far as possible from potential sources of pollution, such as a landfill or cesspool.

Aquifers

Aquifers in the ground can be located at different depths and, depending on this, the water extracted from them can be called topwater, soil, groundwater and artesian.

If you intend to use water from the well exclusively for domestic use, for example for irrigation, it is enough to take water from a depth of up to 20 meters. The construction of a well of greater depth is considered impractical - in this case, with a large depth of the aquifer, it is better to drill a well and install a water pump. At the same time, the well should not be too shallow, otherwise the high water penetrating into it from horizons up to 5 meters will spoil the soil and ground water and make it unsuitable for drinking.


well digging

When choosing between a well and a well, the budget of your structure plays a decisive role. A well made from ready-made reinforced concrete rings will cost you less. In addition, high-quality rings will last in your well for at least half a century. Maintenance of a well also looks simpler compared to a well. In any case, removing sludge from the bottom of the well and replacing the filter bed is less labor-intensive than drilling a new well.

Digging a well correctly

In principle, you can start building a well at any time of the year. But it is best to do this in late autumn, when the ground has not yet frozen and is easy to dig, and the water in the ground has gone to a considerable depth. This will make your work easier and you will be able to get to a deeper, and therefore cleaner, more saturated aquifer. During the year, the groundwater level can rise and fall by up to two meters. Thus, the construction of a well at the maximum groundwater level can lead to the fact that in the hot summer there will simply be no water in it.

Well construction rules

There are no engineering-verified rules for the construction of wells. This is such an ancient art that it has remained outside the strict building regulations.


concrete ring well

Practice developed over centuries shows that digging a well is best done by a team of three people. In this case, no mechanization is usually used. One person is constantly at the bottom, deepening the well shaft and filling buckets with selected soil. The second person uses a rope and a winch to pull out the selected soil in buckets and drag it to the dump. The third person is in reserve, and then there is a round-robin replacement. Working in the face at the bottom of the well is quite difficult - the temperature in this area does not exceed 10 degrees, and the atmosphere is not ventilated in any way.

To make it easier for workers to pull out buckets filled with earth, trestles are built above the well mouth and a gate is installed. However, with the modern level of mechanization, the head of the well shaft can also be equipped with an electric winch.

The simplest way to protect the walls of a well shaft is to use reinforced concrete rings. To do this, a finished ring is installed at the selected location. The soil is sampled inside the ring and it gradually enters the ground under the influence of gravity.

Soil is also selected around the ring to approximately half the height. Firstly, this will allow the rings to be connected to each other, and secondly, it will then serve as a foundation pit for the formation of a hydraulic lock and blind area.

It is best to connect reinforced concrete rings together using transport eyes with steel wire. In order to achieve rigid fixation, the wire is twisted with a strong metal object.

Please note that the well rings must be exactly on top of each other. Their horizontal displacement can lead to the formation of cracks through which untreated groundwater will flow into the well.

The proximity of an aquifer can be determined by the cooling in the well shaft and by the appearance of fontanelles and dew on the walls.

The walls of the shaft are built up from rings up to the selected aquifer. Usually in one working diagram 2-3 rings 90 centimeters high are installed in the well.

At the bottom of the well, when the aquifer is reached, a filter pad is formed. For it, it is best to use river pebbles and quartz sand.

Protecting the well from surface water

Water in the well should come exclusively from below, through the filter pad. In order to prevent the ingress of untreated groundwater, the joints between the concrete rings are waterproofed. For this purpose, liquid waterproofing can be used, applied with a brush or roller.

The ring ditch near the well head must be filled with a mixture of sand and gravel, and then a hydraulic lock made of a layer of waterproof clay must be installed there.

After the well is first filled with water, all liquid must be pumped out. The easiest way to do this is with electric pump. This procedure can be repeated several times - this way the well “swings”.

We design the well head

A lid or roof must be installed at the top of the well, which protects it from atmospheric moisture. The choice of design style for the headband of the well depends solely on the aesthetic preferences of the owner. You can form a wooden frame and install a classic gate with a chain or cable. Or you can make a well in a high-tech style by equipping the well with an electric pump.

well with a crane

It is better to design a well some time after its construction is completed, when the soil around its head has settled. In this place it is necessary to make a blind area. It can either be cast from concrete on a sand and gravel bed, or laid out using paving slabs.

village well

What to choose: well or borehole

From the point of view of water purity, a well is not at all an ideal structure. Water intake into wells does not come from a very great depth and the degree of its purification leaves much to be desired. Well water cannot be compared to clean water from an artesian well. After rains and during periods of high groundwater, the well may become cloudy. One of the decisive factors determining the purity of water in village public wells was intensive water intake, as a result of which the water constantly passed through the filter pad and was purified. When used individually, keeping the well clean is quite problematic.

well drilling

Well maintenance

In order for the well on your site to serve you faithfully, it must be cleaned regularly. If any object gets into the well that can cause water contamination, measures must be taken immediately to remove it.

Well maintenance involves regularly checking its condition, cleaning and, if necessary, disinfection. It is better to clean a regularly used well at least once a year.

To carry out cleaning work, all water is removed from the well. This is best done with an electric pump. After this, a worker descends into the well and, using a protected lamp, examines the condition of the inner surface of the well shaft.

Then the surface of the shaft is cleared of debris. Special attention should pay attention to any cracks or crevices that appear. It is urgent to take measures to seal them. For this, a cement-sand mortar with the addition of liquid glass or a special waterproofing additive is used. Also, the cracks in the well can be sealed special solutions. If there is a large gap, it is better to place crushed and soaked clay in its depth, forming a hydraulic lock, and then concrete the gap.

If you find that the filter pad is heavily soiled, it can also be replaced using the same materials.

In emergency cases, the well can be disinfected. After complete pumping out of water, all of it inner surface treated with a bleach solution. Then the water that enters the well is pumped out several times.

How to dig a well: video

well diagram

How to dig a well correctly

aquifer

well digging

concrete ring well

well with a crane

village well

well drilling

kanalizaciyaseptik.ru

How to dig a well with rings?

The process of creating a well based on rings can be divided into three stages: planning, preparation and digging. Moreover, each of the steps is important and serious in its own way.

Installation of concrete rings when digging a well

The correct execution of all stages of work is the key to the durability and tightness of the structure. If installed correctly, such a source can operate without problems for more than ten years without needing major repairs.

Choosing a place for a well

To select the optimal area for a well, it is worth performing a geological survey of the area for the location of groundwater. This will determine the location where the aquifer is closest to the surface.

Having this information, you can save time and money, since you will not have to dig a shaft deeper than required, and this, when digging a hole with your own hands, is very important factor.

When choosing a location, you must be guided by the following basic rules.

  • It is recommended to dig a well only in soils with an undisturbed structure. Otherwise, the digging process will be very difficult due to constant ground collapses.
  • It is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 4-5 meters from the well to the nearest building. If the soil is sandy, behind the walls of the well there will be a gradual decrease in soil density, which can negatively affect the stability of buildings.
  • The well should not interfere with the passage and performance of possible repair work on other structures or buildings.
  • It is worth digging a well as far as possible from an external toilet, sewer pit or sewer well.

You can dig a well at any time of the year (even in winter), except spring. It is not recommended to dig it in the spring due to the fact that at this time the aquifer is at its most high level(due to the melting of a large amount of snow).

Installed well ring

This threatens that a well made during the spring flood will simply stop filling with water after a couple of weeks of operation, since the aquifer will drop below the bottom of the mine. to menu

Selection of ring material

First of all, you need to decide what materials you want to build the column from: reinforced concrete rings or plastic rings. There are also more exotic options for making well shafts: made of stone or brick.

But constructing such structures with your own hands is not justified, due to the high labor and financial costs, so we recommend that you use concrete or plastic rings when creating a well.

Reinforced concrete rings have been and remain the most popular option for constructing wells. When purchasing such rings, make sure that they comply with GOST 8020.

Since there is now a “price war” between manufacturers, each of which is trying to reduce the price of their products as much as possible, and this is done mainly to the detriment of quality, only compliance of products with GOST 8020 can guarantee their reliability.

If you want to dig a well with your own hands, you need to acquire the following tools:

  • Bayonet shovels with short handles (digging in a hole with a long shovel is simply impossible);
  • Containers for lifting earth (buckets);
  • A device for lifting buckets (you can do this with your own hands, using a regular rope with a hook);
  • A winch for lowering rings into a well (a concrete ring according to GOST 8020 weighs approximately 500 kg);
  • Staircase to the entire depth of the mine.

Prepared rings for creating a well on the site

Wall and additional rings (their number is calculated depending on the depth of the well) are the main material.

Additional rings are necessary if you plan to dig a well of non-standard height. The only difference between additional and wall rings is size.

It is recommended to use rings with a diameter of 100-150 cm (this optimal size, as it allows a person to be freely inside the column, which facilitates both installation and future repair robots), which comply with GOST 8020.

In addition to the rings, you will also need:

  • Ingredients for cement mortar;
  • Design for the construction of necks (the presence of closed necks prevents external pollutants from entering the well). Compliance with the same GOST 8020 is desirable.

If you plan to equip a well with a bottom filter, then it is worth purchasing boards for the shield, fine gravel, river pebbles, and quartz sand. When determining how many kilograms of backfill to buy, focus on the size of the well - each layer must be at least 15 cm. to the menu

Stages of digging a well

Directly digging a well with your own hands is performed according to the following algorithm:

Digging a hole for a well

  1. Markings are made at the location that you have identified for the well. The size of the shaft should be 10-15 centimeters larger than the diameter of the wall rings.
  2. Initially, you need to dig a hole 10 centimeters deep than the height of one ring.
  3. The ring is installed in the hole (it should rise 10 cm above its surface). Attention should be paid to ensuring that the rings are in a perfectly even horizontal position, since even slight distortions during the process of building up the column will lead to curvature of the structure.

Since due to the large weight (concrete rings according to GOST 8020 weigh at least 500 kg), moving the ring with your own hands is quite problematic even for several adult men, it is necessary to take care of auxiliary lever mechanisms and a trolley for transporting them.

  1. After the first ring is lowered, it is necessary to dig a hole 80 cm deep inside the ring, after which it is worth digging the earth along its outer side until the ring sinks down under its own weight.
  2. As soon as this happens, you need to clean the crumbled soil.
  3. After this, the next ring is lowered onto the first ring using a winch.
  4. Their joints are connected with cement mortar. You can do high-quality sealing with your own hands using tarred hemp rope.
  5. The same method is used to gradually build up the column in rings until an aquifer is discovered.
  6. Once you have managed to dig a shaft to the required depth, you need to clean its bottom from loose rocks and leave the well to fill with water for 12 hours.
  7. After the time has passed, you need to remove the water and clean the bottom again.
  8. Then you need to dig up another small layer of earth. This operation must be repeated until the water veins become visible, after which the well is left alone for a day (preferably with the necks blocked so that nothing gets into the shaft)
  9. After this, the well is finally cleaned with complete pumping out of water, and a bottom filter is installed.

The process of manually installing a well ring

The above-ground part, which continues the wall and additional rings, is the neck of the well. The neck is a structural element that increases ease of use and, if necessary, blocks access to the well to prevent rainwater and foreign objects from entering it.

Neck production can be one of the most different materials: brick, wooden frame, sometimes they even use external additional rings, which are covered with a special shield with a hole of the required diameter.

If concrete wall and additional rings (GOST 8020) were used during the construction of the necks and the columns themselves, then in the future such a well will require periodic maintenance.

We are talking about checking the seams for depressurization and cracks, to eliminate which it is necessary to carry out simple repair work, which consists of covering the parts of the column that have lost their tightness with a solution.

Read also: features of repairing wells made of concrete rings.

Repair work should not be ignored, since if the integrity of the well is compromised, the quality of the water will be greatly affected, into which all kinds of contaminants will enter from the ground. Dirt can fall from the necks and the rings themselves - if concrete breaks off or crumbles from them. to menu

Stages of digging a well with rings (video)

Home page » Drilling a well

byreniepro.ru

Do-it-yourself well in the country: wooden version + well made of rings

The well is quite rightly recognized as the optimal source for the organization autonomous water supply. Its most attractive quality is rightfully considered to be its flow rate, which exceeds all available options. The well does not silt and does not require regular use like a well. Owners of country property may not visit their property for a long time, but the water supply will not decrease and the quality will not suffer at all. It can be cleaned without any problems. A home “digger” can even dig a well with his own hands if he has patience, at least one assistant and information about the rules for constructing a water supply source.

Starting preparation questions

It is advisable to start any work, including digging a well, with planning and thinking through the upcoming actions. A balanced assessment and preparation will eliminate unnecessary costs. In order for money and effort to be invested profitably, the future owner personal well need to solve a series important issues.

The first question: to dig or not to dig?

It is advisable to begin the activity of constructing an individual water intake facility with self-study hydrogeological conditions. Naturally, we are not talking about drilling a “grid” of three to five exploration wells on a personal plot. What, in principle, can be done with a rented prefabricated drilling rig. Let's simply walk around the neighbors' properties and ask the owners:

  • what water source they use;
  • at what depth does the water “stand” in their wells or boreholes;
  • whether their water intake structures have sufficient flow rate.

At the same time, we will find out how much money was invested in the construction and arrangement of a well or borehole. And after collecting information, we will carefully consider the upcoming independent enterprise.

We can unconditionally rely on survey data only if all areas in the studied area are at approximately the same altitude level. If a dacha/cottage community is built in a hilly area or on a slope of a river bank, information about the hydrogeological conditions in neighboring areas will not allow you to get a real picture. In the best case, the depth of the aquifer will differ from the verbally explored figure; in the worst case, there may be no water at a depth suitable for digging a well.

Before figuring out where and how to dig a well, you should decide on the rationality of its construction. It is reasonable to dig it if the expected depth of the well shaft is within 10-15 m. In general, SNiP number 2.04.02-84 allows the depth of a mine well in loose layers to be up to 30 m. It’s just not worth investing your own efforts into digging such a deep excavation. It will be too difficult to lift the blade to the surface. It is cheaper and safer to order drillers with a drilling rig.

If not very clean water is suitable for supplying water to the bathhouse, the depth of the well can be only 5-7 m. By the way, it is not a fact that the water obtained even from an artesian well, when the excavation is deepened to 35 meters or more, will necessarily be of drinking grade. In any case, the quality and composition of groundwater must be checked by the SES. However, the upper aquifer, fed by the so-called perched water, is acceptable only for use for technical purposes. In addition, it is usually clogged with wastewater, fertilizers introduced into the upper soil layers along with precipitation, and technical fluids.

The second question: if you dig, where?

If we still prefer a well for the water supply of the bathhouse, we should decide on the location for its construction. It should be taken into account that the water intake facility:

  • should be removed from probable sources of pollution at a distance exceeding 25 m that is relatively safe for water quality. But optimal distance are 50m. Sources of pollution include cesspools, landfills, latrines, etc.;
  • should be at least 8 m away from the foundation, preferably more. Otherwise, the flow of soil rushing into the well will gradually wash away the loose rock and weaken the soil under the foundation;
  • should be placed in a clean, dry, slightly elevated area.

It is advisable to locate the well at the highest possible point in the direction of groundwater flow. It is impossible to determine it by eye. You just need to get your bearings on the terrain: if the ground surface of the site has some slope, then it is better to choose a place for the well in the most high zone.

It is possible that 2-3 neighboring estates experience a similar need for a water intake structure. Then it makes sense to join forces and share financial costs. However, you need to take into account that for water supply from a well remote from the bathhouse, inspection analogues will be required. They are a narrow pit, with a depth just below the water supply branch. The bottom needs to be concreted, the walls should preferably be sheathed with boards or covered with bricks. Inspection wells are installed at every turn of the autonomous water supply system, as well as every 15 m of a straight water supply line. You can simply close them with a banal lid and decorate them with a bush climbing roses or an interesting garden figurine.

In general, according to the beliefs of hydrogeologists, you can dig a well anywhere. There will still be water. The question is at what depth it will appear.

Third question: when to dig?

Definitely: digging a well should be done in late autumn. During the period when precipitation falls minimal amount. At this time, the water level is close to lowest values. In winter, of course, it is even lower, but the upper 0.5 -1.2 m of soil captured by frost will be difficult to break even with a hoe. The ground frozen to the depth of seasonal freezing will prevent the natural immersion and shrinkage of the well elements in the mine shaft. And it’s a little cold to work outside in freezing temperatures.

Summer and spring should initially be excluded from possible periods for digging. The water level reaches its peak in summer and rainy spring. You can “miss” and not dig to the required depth, calming down by receiving a sufficient volume of water. Such a well will become shallow in the autumn-winter season and will not cover the needs of the owners. In addition, if the groundwater level is as high as possible, it will be necessary to constantly pump out in order to ensure normal conditions for carrying out earthworks in the well shaft.

Well construction technology

In a simplified way, digging technology can be described as deepening a mine opening into the ground with the simultaneous construction of walls. The walls of the well can be wooden, representing an ordinary log house, cut into a paw. Concrete rings provide a technological alternative to a log house. The construction of a well from them is much simpler and much faster, but to install the rings you will need a lift. For a shallow source of water intake, a concrete pipe is suitable, which can simply be lowered into a pre-dug pit, or a plastic corrugated analogue.

Most often, wells are now built from concrete rings. However, there are still many fans of environmentally friendly wooden water intakes. Let's look at the most popular methods and find out how to properly dig reliable well with durable, non-permeable surface runoff walls.

Option #1 - wooden well

A wooden well frame is traditionally assembled from crowns using standard methods felling of log houses without any residue, i.e. without angular bypasses extending beyond the outer outline. The part of the log house that is immersed in the ground and in contact with water is made from whole or split along alder, willow, and birch logs, because they do not affect, but even improve the quality of the produced water. Pine or oak timber is used to construct the above-water part because these types of wood can introduce a bitter taste. Oak is initially able to change the color of water, saturating it with tannins. But this fact can only be perceived as an initial obstacle to reception bath procedures.

To construct a log house, logs are taken with a diameter of 18 to 22 cm, the same size of plates chopped from logs is from 14 to 20 cm. It is difficult to calculate the number of crowns in advance, but you can “estimate” approximately. It depends on the depth of the planned excavation and the thickness of the material. The cracks between the rims of a well frame are not caulked, because the caulk quickly rots in water. But the underwater part of the log house does not deteriorate for 20 to 50 years, depending on the type of wood, because There is not enough oxygen under water for the development of putrefactive microorganisms. But the surface part, which is constantly in a moistened state, will need to be changed periodically during the long years of service of the wooden well.

Step-by-step instructions describing how to dig a wooden well for a bathhouse in a country house or on the territory of a personal plot:

  • we chop into the paw and assemble on the surface a part of the well frame from 3-7 crowns, taking into account that a rather heavy structure will need to be moved and lowered into the pit;
  • digging a pit approximately 1.5-2 m deep. The dimensions of the pit in plan should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the log house, so that there are no problems with its installation;
  • We install the finished part of the well frame into the pit, and check its horizontalness by installing a construction spirit level on the upper crown. If there is no horizontal position, we adjust the position of the structure by digging up the ground from below in the required place with a sapper shovel;
  • To lift the blade, we install a lifting tripod over the excavation. You can rent it or make it yourself from three logs, attaching a pulley block, gate or winch to the structure. The choice of lifting device must take into account that it will be necessary to lift not only the selected soil, but also the excavator;
  • We select the soil from inside the log house, first in the center of the shaft, then under the central parts of the logs. The corners of the structure at this time rest on the unselected ground;
  • We place pre-prepared supports-chocks under the walls, which should be equal in height;
  • While we are going deeper, our assistant chops and adds another 1 or 2 crowns on top. The number of crowns to be built up is determined after the fact;
  • We temporarily sew the frame together on the outside with a board, fasten the corners with staples or nailing down timber so that there are no distortions when lowering. We hammer nails into each crown;
  • Having dug the corners, we remove the supports so that the frame settles spontaneously;
  • We stimulate the “tight movement” of the log house in the body of the shaft by hitting the upper crown with a sledgehammer, having first placed cuttings of boards on its logs. If the structure rests against dense rock or “sits” at an angle on a boulder, we build up the crowns from below. We undermine the ground to the thickness of one log and sequentially install the elements of the crowns;
  • We repeat all the steps, following the given algorithm, until we “bring” the well frame to the aquifer. Digging a well most often stops in the sand. If the thickness, or thickness, of the aquifer is more than 3 meters, the base of the well should not rest against the underlying water-resistant layer so that water can freely penetrate into the water intake;
  • We pump out the water that appears in the well and continue to work on the front of increasing depth, without reaching the lower aquitard - clay, loam, rock;
  • We level the bottom of the well shaft and form a simple bottom filter by backfilling coarse sand, then gravel, crushed stone or pebbles on top. The total backfill thickness is 40-50 cm. The bottom filter will prevent the water from becoming turbid;

It is impossible to predict in advance the flow rate and thickness of a water-saturated reservoir. If water flows in abundance, then the technology for constructing a wooden well will have to be changed somewhat. The well frame is then strengthened with collaterals - logs, the length of which is at least 50 cm longer than that of ordinary logs. Because The logs are longer than ordinary logs; stoves need to be dug in the walls of the shaft - depressions in the ground for their installation. You will need to go deeper using a box made of thick boards on the surface of the earth. The soil from the mine is removed until the work can be carried out.

According to the requirements of the above-mentioned SNiP, the above-ground part of the well should rise 80 cm above the ground. A clay castle is installed around the excavation, which will prevent surface runoff and atmospheric water from penetrating into the well. The depth of the castle, created from compacted clay or loam, is 1.5 m, width 0.5 -1.0 m.

Option #2 - a well made of concrete rings

Fundamental differences There are no wood and concrete well construction methods. Construction is carried out in a similar lowering manner with a gradual build-up. The difference is that there is no need to cut down the log house. The work will go significantly faster and more fun. You just need to purchase the rings in advance, preferably with a tongue-and-groove type lock on the end circles. The diameter of suitable concrete rings ranges from 1m to 1.5m. The amount depends on the depth of the water intake. The lower water intake ring must have a factory filter in the wall.

Brief step-by-step instructions for those who decided to arrange a water supply for a bathhouse with water supplied from a concrete well:

  • we dig a mine without going deeper than 3m;
  • We install 2-3 rings at the bottom of the excavation, the first of which should have a filter. It is strongly recommended to treat the outer side of the concrete well shaft with a sealing compound;
  • For reliability, we connect the rings together with staples, bolts or pins. True, fastening rings is used mainly in cases where rings without a locking chamfer were purchased for construction. However, for your own peace of mind, you can strengthen it;
  • under the base of the lower ring we dig out 4 recesses into which we place bricks or lumps;
  • We dig in the space under the ring and lift the blade up. The concrete “pyramid” at this time rests on chocks;
  • we remove the supports so that the well trunk settles on its own;
  • We continue to go deeper in the same sequence and build up rings from above;
  • Finally, a filter is placed at the bottom, and a clay castle is placed around the ground part.

The described method is acceptable for the construction of shallow water intake up to 6 m. There is a seamless technology for constructing a deeper concrete well. To do this, a shoe with a cutting edge is installed on the leveled bottom of the pit, and formwork is then mounted on it for pouring the concrete mixture. Do not forget that poisonous gas can accumulate in the well shaft! Check the air in the mine with a gas analyzer every day before work. Do not work alone, wear a safety harness and a hard hat.

stroy-banya.com

Well-digging technologies: how to dig a well at your dacha with your own hands

It is impossible to live in a country house or dacha without water supply. It’s good when there is a river or lake nearby, then the water issue is resolved by itself. Well, if there are no natural water sources around the building, then the owner himself must take care of extracting it from underground. And then the question arises: what is better to build - a well or a well? If the water level in your area is at a depth of 5 to 15 meters, it is better to dig a well, but if it is deeper, then you will have to build a well. Today we will talk about how and where wells are dug, the main nuances of construction, and safety measures.

Choosing a location for a well

It is impossible to independently determine where it is better to make a well so that the water is closer and its quality is satisfactory. It is better to consult a specialist on this issue. But there are other guidelines when choosing a location for a future well:

  • you can find out from your neighbors who already have wells what their depth is, what the soil is like on the site, what problems arose during construction and place your well not far from the neighbor’s (preferably in higher places on the site’s terrain);
  • the well must be located at a distance of at least 30 m from toilets, garbage pits, places where animals are kept and other sources of groundwater pollution;
  • it is necessary to take into account not only the type of site at the present time, but also the buildings planned in the future (barn, bathhouse, gazebo, etc.), since the location of the well can no longer be changed;
  • for ease of use, the distance from the intended location of the well to the house should be optimal.

Digging wells should be planned for the driest period (late summer - early autumn), when groundwater is at its lowest level.

It is best to start constructing a well in late summer and autumn, when the groundwater level is at its lowest.

Preparatory work

To know how to dig a well with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with a certain technology and follow safety rules.

Deciding on the design of the building

Any well is a wide shaft (round or square) that reaches underground water suitable for human consumption. Its depth is, as a rule, about 10 m, but there are cases when the bottom of the well is at a depth of 30-35 m. The design of the well includes:

  • head – upper (aboveground) part;
  • shaft - well trunk;
  • water inlet - the lower section of a well shaft where water collects.

At the bottom of the mine, a bottom filter must be installed to purify the water. It usually consists of 3 layers of gravel or crushed stone: the bottom layer (fine fraction) is 10 cm thick, the middle layer (the fraction is 5-7 times larger) is 15 cm, and the top layer (the fraction is even larger) is also 15 cm.

Sometimes it happens that the soil at the bottom is very viscous - then you should build a plank floor with holes for water, and only add layers of bottom filter on top.

The simplest and convenient option making a well with your own hands - using special concrete rings when building a well shaft

The well shaft can be made of stone, brick, wood, concrete. The most common and simplest option is to use ready-made concrete rings. We will look at it in more detail.

How to calculate the cost of digging?

To estimate how much it will cost to dig a well, you need to calculate the cost necessary materials. For work you will need: small and large crushed stone or gravel (for installing a filter), concrete rings, staples for fastening them together, sand and cement for filling the seams between the rings.

Obviously, carrying out the work independently, of course, not without the help of several comrades or neighbors, will cost less for the owner of the site, otherwise he will need to spend money on a team of hired workers. Of course, there are special companies that drill wells and, if desired and have a decent amount of money, will make a turnkey well. But if it’s too expensive for you and you want to save money, then you can do everything yourself.

What tools are needed?

Since all work will be carried out manually, it is necessary to ensure the availability of the following tools: shovels (large and small), buckets, chain, tripod and lifting device, rope-ladder. It will be necessary to build a wooden cart from boards to move the concrete rings, which are quite heavy (up to 600 kg).

Safety regulations

The process of digging a well involves increased danger for life and health, so you need to follow a few simple safety rules:

  1. To prevent possible falling of stones and earth on a person’s head when they are pulled out of the mine, it is imperative to wear a protective helmet.
  2. During work, the strength of the ropes used should be checked daily by hanging a heavy load on them.
  3. It is imperative to check the fastening strength of all parts of the containers for pulling out soil.
  4. Since dampness and cold are detrimental to health, you should not stay in the mine all day.

The procedure for performing digging work

Let's move directly to the work algorithm:

  • Markings are made on the site where the well will be located: the diameter of the shaft should be 10 cm larger than the diameter of the concrete rings used. They dig a hole to such a depth that the first ring is not completely immersed - 8-10 cm above ground level.
  • Using a cart (which also has a height of 8-10 cm), the first ring is delivered to the pit and installed, carefully checking its verticality, since even a slight distortion affects the quality of the well as a whole. A second ring is installed on top and connected to the first using staples (at least 3 pieces).
  • Next, deepen the hole 80 cm in the center, then dig it in a circle so that the first ring sinks deep under its own weight. If the soil is soft, it is removed first from the middle of the ring, and if it is hard, the soil is removed first under the ring so that there are no obstacles to its immersion, and only after it settles, the middle is removed. The joints of the strung rings are sealed by laying tarred hemp rope and sealing their cement-sand mortar.
  • The wall of rings should be built up until water begins to appear at the bottom of the well shaft. The water along with the washed sand is removed and the well is left for 12 hours to fill with water.
  • On the second day, the bottom needs to be cleaned again. This operation is repeated until water veins are visible at the bottom of the shaft. Cover the well with a lid and leave it untouched for 24 hours.
  • Again, pump out the collected water and sand and place a filter on the bottom: 10-15 cm of fine gravel, then 30-40 cm of coarse gravel (crushed stone can be used). A 1.5-meter water level in a well (about one and a half rings) is considered sufficient.

It is important to note that on the outer sides of the rings (in the space between the edges of the pit and the walls of the well) a gravel-sand mixture is poured, and at ground level it is compacted with clay and sprinkled with sand. The resulting clay castle will prevent rain and melt water from entering the well.

The first stage of constructing a well: in the selected area, a hole is dug with a diameter 10 cm larger than the diameter of special concrete rings for the well. The joints between the strung well rings are carefully sealed by laying tarred hemp rope in them and sealing them with cement-sand mortar. The sides of the concrete wall from the rings are compacted with clay. at ground level and sprinkled with sand, which will protect the well from precipitation getting into it

The upper (ground) part of the well can be built from wood in the form of a house or from concrete. In the second case, it is necessary to install another upper ring. The well is covered with a lid to protect it from precipitation and debris.

The above-ground upper part of the well (the so-called head) can be built from wood in the form of a house: it is aesthetically pleasing, hygienic, and safe. The well must be covered with a lid to protect the water from debris, rainwater, and also for safety reasons

Another visual master class on digging a well at your dacha can be seen in this video. Take a look and see that doing all the work yourself is quite possible. There are such craftsmen!

The need for specialists in digging water sources is constantly growing. However, you can do this work yourself. This article will reveal the main secrets of how to dig a well at home.

According to the Law of the Russian Federation dated February 21, 1992 N 2395-01 “On Subsoil”, Article 19 allows for drilling wells for one’s own purposes without any permits, provided that no more than 100 cubic meters of liquid from the aquifer rise to the surface per day, and that the source is not centralized.

That is, if you want to obtain water from a source solely for watering your garden, agricultural or household needs, drinking, etc., you do not need to obtain any permits for either a summer house or a private home.

How to find a place?

First you should search for water. The easiest way is to ask your neighbors. If they don't have a source, have they looked for it? If neighbors' attempts are unsuccessful, it will be impossible to find the liquid. You can determine the place where to dig yourself. If a source is present, then before looking for water personal plot, you should start from the following factors:

  1. Terrain.
  2. Soil type.
  3. Climatic conditions.
  4. Nature and plants.

How to determine where is the best place to dig?

Most The best way Finding liquid on a site is geological exploration. Having discovered a source or supposed place with water, you should not rush to dig, it is better to check its quality.

Does it have any aftertaste, is it cloudy or dirty, etc.

Advice: If you are digging a source for drinking water, it is recommended that you first send it to a laboratory for analysis. The test will be for: microbiology, inorganics, organics, herbicides, radionuclides and pesticides. You can check for fertilizers and petroleum products, iron and manganese.

  • landfills;
  • car washes;
  • swamps;
  • farms and pigsties;
  • tanks with sewage and the like.

If the soil in your area is rocky and there are large blocks, then setting up a mine will cause serious difficulties. For this purpose, geological exploration is carried out. This includes:

  • studying the nature of the soil and the characteristics of the local rock;
  • determining the depth of the source.


Finding water on your own property can make it easier to study the flora. For example, sedge, sedge, and coltsfoot grow mainly in damp areas. If the groundwater is high, then you will see the following trees: spruce, birch, alder. This may be the optimal location.

Important: The search should not be carried out in ravines, river banks, or gutters. In such places, fluid drainage is carried out artificially.

There is another popular way to search for water on your own site. For this, a slingshot made of willow branches is used. It is held in a vertical position, where the aquifer is close, and the tension of the slingshot barrel is felt in your hands. Instead of willow twigs, metal wire is also used, from which 2 equal L-shaped frames are made. If you hold them horizontally with your elbow bent, the frames begin to move and cross where there is liquid.

Shaft depth


Conventionally, aquifers can be divided into several horizons. For a full-fledged well, it is enough to dig into the first one. Typically the depth ranges from 5 to 30 meters. Depending on how wells enter the aquifer, dacha wells are divided into 3 types (diagram below):

  1. Perfect with sump (B).
  2. Perfect (B).
  3. Imperfect (A).

In the third case, water inflow is possible through the bottom and side walls. In the second case, exclusively through the walls, and as for the sump, the shaft will be located in the rock. Due to this, the fluid supply increases significantly.

Based on the characteristics of the soil in your area, you need to choose the most affordable technology method.

What time of year should you dig?

Is there a difference when it's better to dig? Yes. The ideal time of year is late summer and January. To cut a spring in winter, there must be frost for at least three weeks.

Digging during this period has its advantages:

  • The groundwater level is very low.
  • There is practically no perched water.
  • It is easy to calculate the debit, since at this time of year it is minimal.

If you plan to dig yourself, with your own hands, then you need to start in early August in order to be in time before the rainy season.

Important: the chosen time of year should be as dry and dry as possible.

Digging technique

Drilling is performed using several technologies:

  • open;
  • closed;
  • mine;
  • tubular.

Let's take a closer look at these types of wells.

Open


You can dig a mine in an open way. To do this, dig a hole of the required depth. The diameter of the shaft should be 20 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. After lowering the concrete products, they must be connected to each other. The joints are also sealed. The resulting space between the walls of the shaft and the ground is filled with earth.

Closed

A summer source can be made in a closed way. Before digging a well, it is necessary to prepare a hole in the ground up to 2 m deep. A reinforced concrete ring is carefully inserted into it.

As it deepens, the installed co-construction will gradually sink down. The second, third rings and so on are carefully mounted on top. The latter should rise above the soil level.

Important! As new rings are installed, all joints must be sealed.

Construction using this method requires certain skills.

Shakhtny


A shaft that should be strengthened to prevent soil from collapsing. Previously this was done using logs. Currently, the shaft or shaft is reinforced with concrete round rings. As a result, the source is protected from wastewater and pollution.

Tubular

Digging a well yourself using tubular technology is difficult. This method is suitable when the aquifer is located fairly close. Moreover, it is used for digging special equipment, which costs a lot of money.

Features of digging technologies

Each of these digging techniques has its pros and cons. Also required are different financial investments. When digging openly, special equipment is required, which already increases the price of the entire project. In the case of closed technology, the cost of work will be cheap, since only the costs are required for the delivery of reinforced concrete rings. You can install them yourself as you go deeper.

As for the tubular method, it is the most expensive and technologically advanced. Well, the mining method is labor-intensive and requires special skills. Therefore, you may have to hire a specialist.

pros

Tools

The set of tools and materials may differ depending on what types of wells will be built.

Tools:

  • cable;
  • homemade winch;
  • buckets;
  • shovels with short handles;
  • ropes;
  • wheelbarrow;
  • hammer/drill;
  • carpentry tools (when working with wood);
  • jackhammer;
  • flashlight;
  • pump;
  • insurance;
  • level;
  • helmet.

Materials:

  • reinforced concrete rings;
  • cement;
  • sand.

Safety precautions

To build a well with your own hands, it is extremely important to follow certain precautions:

  1. When digging, the head is protected by a helmet.
  2. Bucket handles must be strong and reliable.
  3. The rope for lifting the bucket must be strong.
  4. The carabiner must be reliable.
  5. From time to time you should check the carabiner, rope and handle on the bucket.
  6. Digging is done one by one.
  7. It is necessary to make sure that the ladder is reliable and durable.
  8. Work should be carried out in strong, high and leak-proof shoes and overalls.
  9. Reinforced concrete products must be installed very carefully.
  10. The harness with the stone should be lifted slowly and carefully.
  11. Insurance required.
  12. If there is a gas leak, go upstairs immediately.
  13. Keep children away from the work area.
  14. Do not dump the raised soil closer than 3 meters from the hole.
  15. Warn the digger about lifting and lowering objects.
  • Get multiple confirmations of water availability.
  • Pre-study the geology of the area.
  • It is best to start digging in winter after frost for about three weeks, or even more.
  • Take a deep dive into the aquifer.
  • Make a hole one ring deeper than the neighbors.
  • It is best to connect the rings with staples.
  • At the bottom, install an aspen shield made of stones, sand.

Common Mistakes

  • A small number of rings.
  • If it is necessary to deepen the mine, then you should not dig in one ring from the outside, but rather clean the source.
  • If it is necessary to deepen, then the shaft is completely dug.
  • Avoid superficial restoration of joints. The seams should be completely cleaned of mortar.
  • If the old source is running, it is better to spend money on digging a new one.
  • Do not leave seams through which water can leak.
  • Do not abandon a dug mine without cover.

How to make a mine from concrete rings?

The process of making and installing rings with your own hands is a labor-intensive stage of work. Reinforced concrete wells are manufactured in the following sequence:

  1. Marking is being carried out on the site.
  2. The bottom is leveling out. A diameter of up to 1.5 m is enough.
  3. The concrete well is immersed after excavation to the height of the ring using a tripod or winch.
  4. The first ring is mounted, measurements are taken all the time.
  5. As you go deeper, a second one is installed, and so on. Using a crowbar we level it.
  6. The well can be sealed from the inside using a rubber band, which is placed in the gap between the rings. If there are loops, they bend inward.
  7. A filter is installed at the bottom of the source.
  8. Groundwater protection is carried out. Waterproofing is done using special mastics.
  9. Before caulking the seams between the rings, you need to connect them with anchors.

Before you dig a well by hand, you need to have an accurate diameter. The pit for reinforced concrete wells should be 200 mm wider in width. While digging a hole, be sure to check the level; the shaft must be vertically level. As the hole under the reinforced concrete rings is dug independently, the soil gradually rises upward. Everything happens in stages, the bucket goes down and goes up the winch.

Advice: knowing how to dig a mine in a country house, you can handle all the work yourself. It is mandatory to protect the source from the penetration of groundwater.

If a boulder is encountered, it is removed if possible. Although in some cases the mine is filled up and equipped in another place.

How to seal seams: mine waterproofing

When the well is completely drilled and the rings are all in place, they need to be waterproofed from the inside. If it will be carried out in wet soils, then coating compounds are recommended.

For example, you can use bitumen mastic. She must treat the outside of the rings. This will significantly extend their service life. The joints are additionally coated from the inside.


Concrete shafts are often wrapped with roll insulation, such as dense polyethylene, as waterproofing. Film is much cheaper. However, it is used exclusively from the outside. You need to quickly dig around the rings in a circle and wrap them with film.

Important! The film will last for several years if you buy a durable one with reinforcement. But it is better to allocate a budget for coating insulation.

Some summer residents resort to additional waterproofing by making. This is especially true if clay rises to the surface when digging. It can be used by filling the well from the outside.

Useful video

Videos from professionals:

Conclusion

We looked at all the features of how to properly make a well. You found out when it is better to dig it with concrete rings. Different digging techniques were considered, you choose the most accessible one for yourself. Now, knowing how to build a well, you can get to work. We hope that this material was useful to you. In addition, we recommend watching a video about how many home craftsmen dig them.

Digging a well at your dacha with your own hands may seem like a simple task. In fact, this process has many subtleties, without knowledge of which it is simply impossible to obtain high-quality water suitable for drinking. We will describe in detail not only the process of its construction, but also methods of searching for aquifers, as well as installation plumbing systems for supplying water to the house.

Types of wells

The choice of well type depends on the depth of the aquifer and soil type:

  • key: used infrequently when underground sources (springs) come close to the surface; a hole sunk 10-20 cm into the ground is filled with crushed stone, then a log house is prepared with a hole to drain excess water
  • mine: the most common, used when aquifers occur at a depth of 5-25 m; consists of a trunk, a water intake in the lower part, located under water, and a head (above-ground part)
  • Abyssinian (tubular): unlike a well, it is less deep and has a smaller casing diameter; plus the pumps it uses are not submersible, but above-ground (often manual); such a structure is inexpensive, but its service life is short; plus in winter, when groundwater goes deeper, its extraction can be difficult

Log shaft wells, based on the type of lower (water intake) part, are in turn divided into three more groups:

  • with an imperfect (incomplete) water intake: its lower part does not reach the bottom of the water layer, so liquid seeps through the bottom or walls; This is the option that is most often chosen when building a well with your own hands; the volume of water in it is quite enough for irrigation and meeting the needs of the family
  • with perfect water intake: it is located at the very bottom of the aquifer; Such structures for private houses are rarely used, because if water supplies exceed the family’s normal expenses, the water in it will quickly deteriorate and silt up
  • with a perfect water intake, complemented by a sump– deepening in the underlying rock to create a water reserve

Selecting a location

For some reason, some people think that water should be present everywhere. It is enough to make the hole deeper - and the well is ready. As a result, a wasted mine, wasted time and nerves. Moreover, the vein can pass just a couple of meters from the dug well, which remains dry.

To this day, the dowsing method is successfully used to search for a nearby water layer. Once upon a time, branches of viburnum, hazel or willow served as natural biolocators. Today, even experienced drillers often replace them with pieces of copper or aluminum wire with ends bent at 90 degrees. They are inserted into hollow tubes and, holding them in their hands, they walk through the area meter by meter. Where water passes close, the wires begin to cross in the direction of the flow. To be sure, the area is examined in this way several times.

When looking for a place for a well in your country house, you should also pay attention to the color of the greenery growing on the site. Near the water it is more juicy. Willows, meadowsweet, ivy and crabgrass are very fond of such places - where they have chosen a place to grow, there will definitely be a vein. Nettle, horse sorrel, cinquefoil, naked licorice, coltsfoot, and horsetail also grow here. But apple and plum trees, on the contrary, take root worse and often die.

Alder, willow, birch, willow and maple will always tend towards the aquifer. Single oak trees are also a sign of high standing waters. They grow exactly where they intersect.

It has long been noticed that cats love to bask in such places. Dogs avoid such areas. Red ants are also worth watching. They try to place anthills away from water. A large number of mosquitoes and midges always hover near it in the evening. In the mornings there is also always more dew and fog swirling here.

After finding the probable location of the aquifer, exploratory drilling is carried out before digging a well at the dacha. For these purposes, it is allowed to use a regular garden auger. Since you will have to go deeper by 6-10 m, its length will have to be increased. If moisture appears after digging a well, then the location of the water layer has been determined correctly.

If you don't trust the old proven methods, contact a nearby geological surveyor. Such organizations always have special geophysical instruments in their arsenal that can accurately determine the proximity of an aquifer.

When the layers are below 10-15 m, the idea of ​​digging a well should be abandoned. In this case, drilling a well will be necessary.

How deep should you dig a well?

How to make a “correct” well so that there is always water in it? Its depth depends only on natural factors. Therefore, it is very difficult to determine in advance how many rings will be needed. Structures located nearby, for example, near neighbors, can provide an approximate guide, but these data will also be inaccurate. Unfortunately, a method that can accurately tell about the future depth does not yet exist.

To calculate the required number of concrete rings and the depth of the shaft, test drilling is carried out. It is used to determine the density of the soil, its composition, as well as the presence of limestone slabs nearby. But it cannot give an accurate result either.

In the diagrams, aquifers look like strips running underground horizontally or at a slight slope. The drainage part of the well can only be located at its upper boundary (the roof of the formation), in the center or at the very bottom (the bottom of the formation).

To obtain clean water, the mine must reach the second or even third aquifer. The first of these is perched water - water that accumulates near the surface. Its level is always unstable, plus it gets dirty easily. It is used only for watering. When digging a drinking well, you need to go through this layer and go deeper down.

Excavation continues until the veins are clearly visible and water begins to flow into the pit in sufficient quantities. It must be left for a day, and its arrival must be checked on the second day. If the height of the water layer is at least 1.5 m, you can stop digging and begin shaking (cleaning) from suspended soil.

Digging wells on your own on light sandy soils is dangerous due to the possibility of collapse and rubble. If there are several places on the site with the passage of aquifers, you should choose a place with the most dense soil. It is advisable that it be elevated to avoid rainwater flowing into it.

In order not to take risks, it is better in this case to use the services of specialists. The price of constructing a turnkey well in different areas may vary, so it is better to check with a specific organization.

What is a bottom filter?

Do you need a filter for a well? If it contains quicksand without a bottom filter - a layer of sand, crushed stone, gravel or pebbles that serves to purify incoming moisture from suspended earth - it is a necessity. Of course, it will be problematic to get rid of them completely, but it will be able to settle most of the small particles of soil. This filter works on the principle of a conventional sieve.

But among well owners (and many experts) there is often an opinion that such cleaning is necessary even in the absence of quicksand. Supposedly, only it can provide perfectly clean water. Indeed, at first, a small film of special algae and bacteria forms in the sand layer, eating microorganisms dissolved in the water. But the service life of such a biological filter is short. Over time, the biofilm layer increases, the filtration rate decreases, and the well quickly silts up.

A properly constructed well should only be filled through the bottom. In practice, it is not always possible to ensure only bottom inflow. Water often begins to seep through the walls. In this case, its cleaning through the bottom filter simply does not occur.

Plus, a significant layer of backfill (and it should be at least half a meter) reduces the volume of water. Its inflow is also decreasing. It becomes difficult to carry out high-quality cleaning of a silted well in the presence of a layer of sand and crushed stone.

In villages, large stones are sometimes placed at the bottom. But this is only required to avoid muddying the water when scooping during seasonal shallowing. If the well is deep enough and its level does not drop too low, this is not particularly necessary.

If quicksand is detected, in addition to the bottom filter, you will also need to construct a special shield made of wood or steel with holes that can contain the flow of soil mixed with liquid.

What to choose, concrete rings or a wooden frame?

Just digging a well is not enough. It requires reliable protection from collapse. Concrete rings or wood can be used for this. Brick shafts are rarely used - laying them out is too labor-intensive. Plus, a metal frame is required to strengthen the brick, otherwise the walls will quickly begin to crumble. It is made from profiles, reinforcement or durable wood.

Concrete rings will last longer. Choosing log houses made of wood makes sense if access and delivery of rings to the selected site is impossible. The price of a well made of wood is unlikely to be lower than a structure made of concrete rings, and construction will take more time. And such mines silt up faster and will have to be cleaned more often.

The use of concrete rings greatly simplifies and speeds up the work. They are installed end to end. To avoid displacement, such rings are fastened together with steel staples. To prevent chipping along the edges, you can make 40-60 mm steel overlay strips.

The joints of the rings are coated with concrete mortar and additionally sealed with tarred hemp or liquid glass. On loose soils, it is better to place strong boards at the bottom of the shaft so that the rings stand evenly.

Monolithic concrete wells are prepared using formwork. If the depth is significant, concrete is first poured to a shallow depth. Next, they continue to dig a hole, making a tunnel under a layer of concrete and installing supports for it. After passing another 2 meters, a new formwork is prepared. In order for the walls to become stronger, a period of 7-10 days is maintained between each filling.

For wooden log houses, you will need a log made of moisture-resistant ash or oak with a diameter of 15 cm. Thicker logs with a thickness of 22 cm or more are cut in half. Conifers It is not recommended to take them - they will add a slight bitterness to drinking water.

The log house is assembled with locks “in the paw”, that is, several tenons are prepared at one end of the log, and grooves at the other. This is done first on the surface, marking the number of each crown, and then reassembled in the shaft. The crowns are fastened with dowels (metal pins) vertically. The upper crowns are additionally reinforced with steel brackets.

To avoid the penetration of wastewater, it is prohibited to locate a drinking well at a distance closer than 30 m from sewer and cesspool pits. To avoid weakening of the soil under the foundations, it must be removed at least 8 m from the nearest buildings.

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Construction of a well from concrete rings in stages

Let us describe in detail the process of constructing a well at a turnkey dacha. This task is quite labor-intensive, and it can take a lot of time.

Digging a well

  1. Work must begin in March (the best time) or August-September, when groundwater drops to its minimum level. In the southern and northern regions of Russia, this period may shift.
  2. Don't forget basic safety rules. Work should be carried out only by two people (alternately) using a safety rope.
  3. Since wells are often dug by hand, its width is determined by the dimensions of the human body. The optimal diameter is 0.8-1.5 m. Although, of course, these dimensions are approximate. There is simply no point in making it wider - the amount of incoming moisture will not increase.
  4. When using concrete rings, the width of the pit is equal to the width of the ring plus an allowance of 30-50 cm.
  5. Please note that during the digging process the pit can fill up quite quickly, so you will have to periodically pump out the water.
  6. To prevent the rings from accidentally moving, it is advisable to purchase products with tongue-and-groove locks. Their connection to each other will be more reliable.
  7. The lowest ring (water inlet) must be equipped with a bottom and perforations on the walls.
  8. Removal of soil continues to a depth equal to the height of the first (perforated) ring. It is installed so that it protrudes 10 cm above the ground.
  9. Under the first ring, 4 recesses are prepared, into which strong wooden supports or a row of bricks are installed.
  10. We continue to dig a shaft under the ring standing on supports. It must be dug slightly under the cone so that the first ring can easily fall down under the influence of its own weight.
  11. We remove the supports by lowering the ring lower. Install a new ring on top.
  12. We continue to go deeper into the ground in the same order, while simultaneously increasing the rings.
  13. When reaching the aquifer, digging continues until a layer of water of 40-50 cm is formed at the bottom.
  14. Next, it must be completely scooped out so that aquifers were clearly visible. The well is covered with a thick film or tarpaulin.
  15. Subsequent work is carried out after 12-14 hours.
  16. To filter suspended soil and prevent it from agitating, a layer of coarse crushed stone 25 cm thick can be poured onto the bottom.
  17. The well is again left for a day to allow the water to rise. Its layer should be 1.5 m.
  18. If the water supply in the reservoir is insufficient due to the small height of the formation, side holes can be made in the walls to collect it.
  19. The gap formed between the log house and the ground is filled with crushed stone or gravel.

Underground gas may enter the well shaft! Although such cases are infrequent, at the slightest suspicion (hissing, gurgling, the appearance of a foreign smell), lower a bucket with a burning candle into it or throw a bunch of lit straw into it. To avoid a strong explosion (if there is methane in the mine), move away from it. In the presence of carbon dioxide a candle or straw, on the contrary, will quickly go out. If the gas does not go away for a long time, in order to figure out the problem, you will need to call specialists and the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Clay castle and blind area

The “clay castle” serves as a natural barrier, protecting against the penetration of rainwater and domestic wastewater. To create it, soil is selected around the well to a depth of 50 cm. The width of such a ditch is 30-45 cm. We place wet clay in it. To prevent the formation of voids and cracks, it must be thoroughly trampled. The top is compacted and smoothed using a wide board. For ease of walking, you can lay a row of bricks, large stones, or make a blind area of ​​concrete.

In the first years, wells built on clay soil, fill up more slowly. They may require periodic pumping to flush the springs. Subsequently, the influx increases.

Construction of the head

Decorative well with brick cap

Its purpose is to prevent water pollution on land. After all, the external insulation of a structure is no less important. Without it, tree leaves, insects and wind-blown debris will constantly fall into the well.

The head should rise above the surface at a height of 60-90 cm. It is equipped with a lid and a device for raising water. Even if you have a pumping system, you shouldn’t abandon the bucket gate. After all, the electricity may be turned off for a while.

The best finishing materials are wood or brick. It’s definitely not worth protecting the head with metal tiles. Its angles are so sharp that they can cut your skin like a knife. There is no need to make the lid too tight - in order to avoid the appearance of mustiness, the well must “breathe”.

There is no point in insulating the head. Reliable thermal insulation must be located at the level of the top pair of rings so that the water in the well does not freeze.

The height of the frame or concrete rings should be 0.8-1 m, so that when removing a bucket, a person can safely reach it without bending too much down.

Well rocking

The water in the dug well is still cloudy and can only be used for irrigation. It is not yet suitable for drinking. Water, as well as the bottom and walls of the pit, are cleaned from loose soil using a small submersible mud pump:

  • remember the rule: the first few pumpings are carried out in small portions with a intake of no more than 3/4 of the water column; otherwise, with an intensive supply of new portions of moisture, the bottom will be washed away, and such cleaning will be of no use
  • The very first cleaning is done manually; to do this you need to go down into the well with an ordinary shovel and bucket; The pump cannot handle so much dirt yet
  • the pump is hooked onto a strong cable and installed closer to the bottom, at the gravel filter to prevent the sludge from settling
  • pumping is carried out until water begins to flow intensively; the number of pump starts per day is at least four; and this must be done in different modes
  • drain contaminated water
  • From time to time the pump must be flushed by running clean water, otherwise it will quickly fail due to overload
  • a well dug in clay soil requires lengthy cleaning; some owners believe that cloudy liquid in this case is inevitable, but this is far from the case; its mine can and should be pumped

In a similar way, periodic purification of water from a well is carried out. Otherwise, it will silt and become shallow. This is done as it gets dirty.

In the absence of a mud pump, the mixture of liquid and soil is removed from the well using an ordinary bucket with a rope tied to it. But this process is very labor-intensive - cleaning must be done until the water becomes absolutely clean, without impurities.

If the well is located on quicksand - soil mixed with a large amount of water - it is impossible to clean it. In this case, special drainage systems (bottom filters) are used.

To ensure uninterrupted supply of water to the garden house, a pipe insert is prepared in advance in one of the concrete rings. They should be laid 30 cm below the soil freezing level. Otherwise, at the end of winter, burst pipes will have to be replaced. This indicator is different in each area, so it should be clarified.

To lay a water pipeline at the dacha from the well to the house, a trench is laid to it. When calculating its depth, the height of the sand and gravel cushion is taken into account (up to 10-15 cm). For laying the water supply, HDPE polyethylene pipes made of plastic are used low pressure. The optimal diameter is 32 mm. You will also need connecting fittings (tees, reducers, bends, etc.).

Since the cost of pipes is minimal, experts advise laying two lines to the well at once. In this case, if a leak occurs, you can use the second one as a backup option.

For mechanical protection against soil pressure, pipes are ironed into corrugations or pipes of larger diameter. It is better to lay a layer of insulation between them. When lifting pipes closer to the surface near a base or unheated basement, they may freeze, so additional thermal insulation is required in these places.

For an uninterrupted supply of water from a well in the utility room, it is better to provide a storage tank. After laying the pipes, they are connected to a pump, which is lowered into the water at a distance of 30 cm from the bottom (more on its selection below).

Selection of pumping equipment

As you know, all types of pumps are divided into two types:

1 Superficial: they only have a suction pipe in the water; such units are capable of lifting it only from a depth of up to 10.3 m; it is to this height that water can rise through the tube, pushed by atmospheric pressure into the tube; in practice, due to friction losses and fluctuations in atmospheric pressure, this parameter decreases and equals 5-7 m; mechanisms with ejectors (water flow accelerators) can lift water from greater depths, but their efficiency is too low.

2 Submersible: the entire mechanism is completely lowered into the liquid, which allows water to be delivered from great depths; since such units do not expend power on suction, there is no loss of power; their efficiency is much higher than surface efficiency.

Thus, it is advisable to pump water for the dacha from deep wells pumping stations equipped with submersible pumps. All that remains is to determine their power and performance. It is necessary to take into account not only the needs of the family, but also the flow of water in the well itself. Otherwise, it may turn out that an overly powerful unit will run idle.

Please also note that the general System efficiency will depend not only on the power of the unit, but also on the number of turns and narrowings of the water supply. If there is a small influx of water, it makes sense to purchase a low-power pump and install a storage tank from which water will be supplied to the taps in the house.

Another important parameter for the pump is the pressure force, that is, the ability to transfer (move) the pumped water further through the pipes. This parameter is directly related to the operating pressure. That is, per 10 m of vertical pipe there is a pressure of 1 atmosphere.

The water has left the well. What to do?

The aquifer is depleted over time, so the amount of moisture in the well decreases, and then it becomes completely shallow. But this can happen no earlier than after 10-25 years of operation. Moreover, the operating time does not depend on the depth of the mine, but on the thickness of the aquifer.

Please note that the well is always subject to seasonal shallowing. During prolonged drought, its level always decreases. When the rainy season arrives, moisture rises again to its usual level. Sometimes it goes away completely due to serious geological developments taking place in the area, or changes in seismological activity, but such cases are very rare.

In most cases, the cause of shallowing is siltation. Over time, the debris that settles to the bottom turns into silt, which clogs the vein and the inflow decreases. For uninterrupted water supply to the dacha from the well, it requires periodic cleaning (boosting). We described it in detail above.

If cleaning hardly helped, but moisture still began to flow in a little, this means that the ducts themselves have silted up. They are washed with water from the tank. Moisture seeping into the aquifer will clean the springs well.

When extracting part of the aquifer, the well can be dug, that is, the water intake can be lowered a little lower. Teach that such deepening must be done wisely. Don't throw it away at the first trickle of water. But lowering to too great a depth is undesirable. Otherwise, you will cover possible fontanelles with concrete rings. Excavation is carried out more often on 3-4 rings.

It is not worth deepening wells with quicksand - in this case it is unlikely to achieve an increase in inflow.

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