Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and care open ground This wondrous flower will be discussed step by step in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.
Climbing rose - description of the type and planting features
The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, successfully disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure a luxurious climbing rose can decorate with its presence. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.
The color range of this type of rose is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. The bud sizes can range from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:
- Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
- Climbing - 3-5 meters.
- Curly - 5-15 meters.
The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering vary, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once-flowering species and repeat-flowering ones.
Climbing rose, photo:
The buds of certain varieties can emit a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance; some have a barely audible, subtle and gentle scent. This culture will do well in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by soil that is unsuitable for climbing roses, be sure to dilute it with something suitable. Thus, in clay soil sand is added, and clay is added to the sandy one (to a depth of about 30 cm); in addition, humus or humus should be added, as well as phosphorus additives.
All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts had not previously grown. If it doesn’t work out any other way, you need to replace it before planting. top layer ground (50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that in the chosen location groundwater does not pass close to the top layer of soil.
If you decide to “drape” part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold weather, the roots will have time to take root in the new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in magnificent colors. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 °C; catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April/first weeks of May are the most optimal timing For spring planting.
Planting climbing roses in the ground in spring
Let me make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from those in autumn. All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will lag a little behind in development and will require increased attention from you. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.
So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches to about 20 cm in length, and the roots too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the hole should be 60-70 cm. If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, and lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downward and do not bend upward!
Planting a climbing rose in spring involves adding nutritious soil to the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, of peat compost, will please your rose. After planting, trample the soil a little and water it abundantly. It will be very good if you add a drug with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, “Phosphobacterin”, to the water for this first watering. The phytohormone “Heteroauxin” is also perfect.
In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic film - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It’s up to you to do this or not, if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film every day and gradually increase the ventilation time every day. After stable warm weather has established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.
How to plant a climbing rose bought in a store in spring?
Today at flower shops You can purchase climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system.
Representatives with bare roots should be planted in the ground immediately. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.
Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated; if they are light green in color, then it is better to refrain from purchasing.
The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, sickly, and unlikely to survive the winter.
You should also pay close attention to the grafting sites; a correctly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “joint” site that promotes fusion. If the grafting site peels and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.
Planting climbing roses from the store in spring, stages:
- A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots and place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we remove it too; shoots that are too long can be pinched. Don’t forget to powder the cut areas with powdered charcoal or activated carbon.
- The roots should remain in the water for 3-4 hours, thus the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully inspected root system. You can first add the stimulant “Kornevin” to the water (according to the instructions).
- We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. What the pit should be like and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been discussed a little higher. Water the rose thoroughly with water.
- After the water is absorbed, you can add more soil (hill up). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
- If the spring sun shines too brightly, take the time to cover the young bush with a paper bag or cloth light shades- so it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left for 5-7 days.
Climbing roses - care and cultivation
In hot weather and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil away from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day so that the plant does not subsequently experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried approximately 10 cm into the soil.
During the growing season, climbing roses require generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the bush has formed, the plant should be watered every 10 days. In this case, the water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper; 10-12 liters per bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both overmoistening and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so observe golden mean in this matter.
Climbing rose, photo:
How to fertilize climbing roses
Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this type Quite demanding when it comes to feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with complex mineral fertilizer, for example, “Agricola-Rosa” (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - “Ideal” or “Flower” fertilizer. You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting mixture right to the root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of the drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemicals, you can simply ruin it.
Caring for a climbing rose in the first year
How does it differ from standard requirements? Its proper care in the first year of a plant’s life depends on further development and the splendor of flowering. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If the days are sunny, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days have passed after removing the hilling soil, you can begin the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the side branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” into the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on outside, left for later correct formation bush.
Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after these manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.
Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose
Is a climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be hilled, then the climbing variety must be completely covered - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods; in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.
Here you will have to select 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, wrap them with twine and carefully tilt them towards the ground. Using metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend them), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud as described above.
How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care activity should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm, in summer time Faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.
Starting from the second year of the plant’s life, branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.
How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (select 1 or 2) are cut off completely; later they will be successfully replaced by young basal shoots. If these shoots are not present, then approximately 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacement basal branches.
The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where new powerful growth began to form; subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short branches-peduncles are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.
How to prune a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up the pruning shears when the buds on the branches below begin to swell (last weeks of April/early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than expected. If you miss the time for pruning, the plant will devote all its energy to forming new branches and foliage, and flowering will be scanty.
Pruning climbing roses in spring has one significant important point– removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes obvious after the bushes open in the spring. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.
Transplanting a climbing rose to another place
Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and gets sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by replanting. The best time to perform this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to its new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.
However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place in the spring is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of the roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the above-ground part of the plant is removed from its support, the bush itself is carefully dug up (moving in a circle), approximately 50-60 cm are retreated from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, it is better that the hole is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.
When replanting, the same rules are followed as during standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downwards, the free space in the hole is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly compacted and generously watered.
After 3-4 days, you should add more soil (it will settle slightly) and hill up your rose.
There is one interesting nuance associated with replanting roses - they belong to the groups of climbers and ramblers. Let me make a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:
- climbers;
- ramblers.
Varieties of climbing roses are called climbing roses; they produce coarse and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. The shoots of climbers are not very flexible; when replanting, they must be cut to half their entire length!
Ramblers are climbing roses with flexible and soft shoots, lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when replanting, all shoots that are more than two years old are pruned. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch off the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.
How to propagate a climbing rose?
There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation This is only possible if seed material is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, independently collected seeds Climbing roses growing in your dacha or garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.
Growing climbing roses from seeds
Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. This disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in subsequent stages of growing the plant. Afterwards, remove the seeds from the solution and place them on thin layer cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover the top with a similar layer of cotton wool, which is also soaked in peroxide.
Place the resulting “sandwich” in plastic bag and put it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds and replace the cotton layers with new ones (also soaked in hydrogen peroxide).
After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully moved to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.
Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything correctly, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new stock is planted in open ground.
Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings
This is the most easy way reproduction, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, you can use already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.
The cut fragment must have at least two internodes; the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the bud. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.
Next, all the lower leaves of the cutting are cut off, and the upper leaves are cut in half. Place the cutting in a pre-prepared container with sand or a mixture of sand and soil, deepen it by about 1-2 cm, cover the top with a glass jar and put it in a well-lit place.
Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the jars) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.
Reproduction of climbing roses by layering
In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small bed-ditch about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the ditch, and sprinkle it with the same layer of soil on top. Now we carefully bend the shoot, place it in the groove and fix it with metal staples. Then we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top facing outward. Then we take care of the bush as usual, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place where the shoot is buried. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.
Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) onto rose hips
A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. Best time for this operation - the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, rose hips should be generously watered.
An incision is made in the bark in the shape of the letter “T” right on the root collar of the shrub, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. An eye cut from a climbing rose is placed in this kind of “pocket”. The eye needs to be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.
Next, we press the eye tightly to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (available freely in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is hilled up, and so that the soil rises above the grafting site by 5 cm (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring it is removed for good.
The climbing rose does not bloom - why?
This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. 7 factors that influence the absence of flowers in climbing roses were experimentally determined.
Climbing rose - diseases and pests
Rose sawfly caterpillar on a rose 
Rose affected by spider mites At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after wearing gardening gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need help chemicals. Insecticides "Shar Pei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.
If you want to try the so-called traditional methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate the rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.
Spider mites love heat and drought; a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence of an uninvited guest. Old methods of control using thick tobacco infusion or wormwood infusion give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes treating roses twice with this preparation is enough for the mite to lose its position. The bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" has also proven itself in this matter.
According to reviews experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works perfectly against the roseate sawfly. The preparations “Actellik” and “Phosbecid” (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show good results, which apply not only to the sawfly, but also to other “lovers” of climbing roses.
In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about spring and autumn spraying roses with Bordeaux mixture - this is important.
Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, koniothyrium (bark burn).
Powdery mildew 
Bacterial cancer There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but serious attitude to prevention minimizes the risk of disease.
Disinfection of the root system in a three percent solution copper sulfate(before planting), removing suspicious fragments and quickly irrigating wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most commonly recommended preventive measures.
Koniothyrium infection can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (including healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate; the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux mixture or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also be involved in the matter while the buds have not yet blossomed.
In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and then burning them, abundantly irrigating the plant with a solution of iron sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux mixture (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.
Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties
The dream of any gardener is for his favorite flowers to delight the eye with lush buds for as long as possible and to withstand the winter. It is simply unrealistic to mention all the winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them and briefly describe their main qualities.
Climbing rose "Iceberg"
It fully lives up to its name; its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Repeated flowering distinguishing feature this rose, it grows quite quickly and in as soon as possible can braid an arch or wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.
Variety "Iceberg", photo:
Climbing rose "Lavinia"
It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, is low-maintenance, repeat-blooming, and has a scent with light nutmeg notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, and blooms continuously until the first frost.
Variety "Lavinia", photo:
Variety "Polka"
Characterized by wave-like flowering, approximately five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot in color, gradually turning into cream color. It loves sunlit places, has good disease resistance, and can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns and a weak aroma.
Photo of climbing rose variety “Polka”:
Climbing rose "Don Juan"
Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of rich red color. Represents great option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets; they are very fragrant and remain fresh for a long time.
Variety “Don Juan”, photo:
Variety "Flamentanz"
This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of the red color. Its buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petaled. It has increased frost resistance; powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of roses is very delicate, but not very pronounced.
Photo of Flamentanz roses:
Climbing rose "Handel"
The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white and pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, approximately 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. Repeat-blooming rose, average disease resistance, be wary black spot and ashtrays.
Variety "Handel", photo:
Variety "Bobby James"
A small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, is disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (approximately 4.5 cm in diameter), externally reminiscent of cherry blossoms. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that the foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety
Photo of rose variety “Bobby James”:
Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"
A repeat-blooming variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. The large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. The shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with the yellow flowers.
Variety “Golden Perfume”, photo:
Variety "Parade"
One of the most winter-hardy repeat-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. The luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, and is resistant to precipitation.
Roses of the “Parade” variety, photo:
Climbing rose "Schwanensee"
Another variety characterized by increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, sophisticated aroma. The variety is hardy, repeat-blooming, and resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.
Variety "Schwanensee", photo:
Variety "Casino"
This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. Multi-petalled variety, diameter double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.
Climbing rose variety “Casino”, photo:
Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices.” Follow all the above recommendations and carefully choose a place of residence for your rose.
Do not plant it near bushes and trees with strong roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.
Provide her reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.
Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in open ground, the nuances of propagation and replanting, a rough idea of individual varieties - you now know all this and will be able to apply my advice in practice.
The following videos will successfully complement the article:
A climbing rose is a spectacular garden decoration that can disguise even the most unsightly area or high wall. But for her to play the role ornamental plant, it needs to bloom properly. And flowering directly depends on the conditions of maintenance and the characteristics of caring for the shrub. Let's find out how to properly plant a climbing rose in open ground in the spring, and how to care for it so that it takes root and grows healthy.
Climbing roses are usually planted in the fall. This time of year has a lot of advantages: it’s still warm outside, rooting occurs quickly, the pink shoots have already matured and are ready for winter, and next year the bush grows as intensively as everyone else. But autumn planting rarely used in the north, where winter comes early and there is almost no time left for the rose to take root. You also cannot delay planting if you have already prepared a seedling.
The peculiarities of planting a climbing rose in the spring are related to the fact that it needs time to take root and adapt to new conditions. All this inhibits the growth of the above-ground part. As a result, the bush lags behind other shrubs in development by about 2 weeks, and it may happen that by the onset of cold weather the stems do not have time to ripen (wooden). Then in winter they will die. To prevent this from happening, after spring planting the rose must be provided with optimal conditions maintenance and intensive care. Then it will not only quickly adapt, but will also catch up with the rest of the plants in development.
Best time to plant
The timing of planting climbing roses in the spring depends on the local climate and weather, which is impossible to predict. However, experienced flower growers have still determined the approximate time suitable for this:
- In the south of the country, roses are planted in open ground with the onset of April. The deadline is early May.
- IN middle lane The climate in Russia and the Moscow region is harsher, so it is better to plant bushes from late April to late May.
- In the Urals and Siberia with a harsh continental climate, it is advisable to plant from late May to mid-June.
You cannot be guided only by these recommendations. Therefore, monitor the weather and soil conditions. It should have time to warm up to +8...+10 o C. Otherwise, the roses will take root and take root poorly. For planting, you should choose a cloudy and quiet day, when there is no bright sun, precipitation or strong wind.
Selecting a location and necessary conditions
We will tell you what requirements the area where you are going to plant a climbing rose must meet.
Lighting and location
For roses, lighting is very important. They love it when the sun shines on them around the clock. However, choosing a sunny location for a climbing shrub is very difficult: after all, it is usually planted near high fences and walls that cover the space on at least one side. Then you should be guided by the fact that the morning rays of the sun are most important for rose bushes. Therefore, choose an area where sunlight will fall at least from the east, or better yet, from the southeast. Then your beauty will quickly begin to grow.
Important! In the first days after planting the rose in the ground, it will need to be shaded from the scorching rays of the sun. This will help avoid sunburn. When the bush takes root, there will be no need to shade the bush.
Temperature
The rose bush tolerates the warm Russian summer and even heat well, provided that it is watered frequently and abundantly. But in winter it is not very comfortable: most varieties of roses belong to the 5th winter hardiness zone. This means that without shelter they can survive frosts only down to -25...-20 o C. Therefore, they need to be covered for the winter.
Attention! Some varieties may belong to the 4th or even 3rd winter hardiness zone. They can withstand up to -30...-35 o C and -35...-40 o C, respectively. In the first case, the rose will only need a light shelter, and in the second it may not be built at all (with the exception of the Urals and Siberia, where frosts often drop below mark at -40 o C).
Air and humidity
Roses need moderately humid air (40-70%), which is maintained independently in the summer. A corner location (planting near the corner of a wall) is not suitable for climbing shrubs, as it does not tolerate drafts. It is best to plant it at a distance of 0.6 m from the middle of a wall or other support in another area protected from draft winds.
Priming
Rose bushes are best suited to light, fertile loam with good drainage and a neutral reaction. They do not tolerate close proximity groundwater: the roots do not need to reach them, and they can grow up to 2 meters deep. If the waters are located close to the surface, and the area itself is swampy, then when constructing a planting pit, it is necessary to provide for the construction of drainage. To prevent water from stagnating in the soil, it is better to plant the rose on a slightly inclined plane.
When choosing seedlings, pay attention to the following nuances:
- The root system must be well developed, healthy and strong. Do not take seedlings if the roots have become limp; most likely, the bush was dug up a long time ago and it has become very weak.
- The shoots must be healthy and strong. They should not have diseased or weak stems.
- The color of the trunk should be green. If it is gray or brown, we pass by such a seedling.
Before planting, a climbing rose needs to be prepared in order to smooth out the stress it experiences and help it take root faster:
- Soak its roots in water for one day. You can add a little potassium permanganate to make a light pink solution.
- Then soak it for 3-4 hours (maximum 10-12 hours) in a solution of a growth stimulator (Zircon, Kornevin).
- Remove the bush and prune it if necessary. It will be necessary to remove not only shoots up to 20-25 cm, but also damaged roots down to healthy tissue.
- Before planting, cut areas should be treated with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol or another fungicide.
Important! Some nurseries sell seedlings not with an open root system, but with a clod of earth. They are usually packaged in biodegradable material. Such bushes can be planted directly in the package without pre-treatment roots. But this is provided that you plant immediately after purchase.
Planting process
To plant a climbing rose in the spring you will need the following tools, items and materials:
- gloves (to keep your hands clean and protect them from being pierced by spikes);
- shovel (for digging a planting hole);
- drainage material (this can be expanded clay, crushed brick, crushed stone or other coarse stones), as well as sand;
- superphosphate, potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate fertilizers (preferably granulated, as they will nourish the plant throughout the growing season);
- peat and humus (for preparing a light, loose and nutritious soil mixture);
- dolomite flour, wood ash or lime (to deoxidize the soil);
- warm water (for irrigation) and a bucket for it;
- shelter for shading roses.
After preparing the seedling for planting, prepare landing hole:
- Dig a hole about 0.6-0.7 m deep and wide. The optimal distance between holes is 1 m.
- If you plant a bush in a swampy area, then the depth should be greater - about 0.8-0.9 m (for drainage construction). Place a thick layer (15-20 cm) of crushed brick or coarse crushed stone at the bottom of the hole, and pour about 5 cm of coarse river sand on top.
- Prepare a nutritious and loose mixture. To do this, mix peat and humus in equal proportions. If the soil is acidic, then it will be useful to additionally add about 1 kg of wood ash or 500-600 g of lime or dolomite flour. Mix everything thoroughly.
- Fill the hole 30-40% with the nutrient mixture. Add granular fertilizer to it: 2-3 handfuls of superphosphate and 1 handful of potassium sulfate or potassium magnesia.
Plant the roses in the prepared hole:
- Place the seedling in the hole and distribute its roots evenly throughout the entire volume.
- Holding the bush with one hand, fill the empty space between the roots with the other with the nutrient mixture.
- When the roots are covered, pour a bucket into the hole warm water. Pour carefully so as not to wash away the covered soil.
- Fill the hole to the top with the nutrient mixture, the root collar should be buried about 10-12 cm.
- Compact the soil in the hole and build a small earthen rampart around it. It will be needed so that when watering, water does not spill over the entire surface of the soil, but is absorbed directly in the root system zone.
Advice! After planting a climbing rose in open ground, shade it for 10-14 days if the sun is shining outside.
How to tie a climbing rose
The climbing rose needs the construction of a support. Often it is enough just to plant it near it, for example, near the following structures:
- arch;
- wall;
- fence;
- pergola or gazebo;
- dry tree trunk.
But if the support does not have places to cling to, or there is none at all, then the rose needs to be tied up. To do this, use thick garden twine (be sure to carry out the procedure with gloves and an assistant):
- Gather the vines into a compact bush.
- Ask an assistant to hold the rose in this position.
- Wrap the bush around the bush with garden twine and tie it, tying a strong knot.
Now the climbing rose is tied up, but it also needs support. If there is no lattice surface or small ledges on the wall, fence or arbor for the plant to cling to, construct rope or wire mesh. You can simply tie a strong rope to the top of the support, tie a peg to the lower end and stick it near the bush. 3-4 such rope supports are enough for the rose to crawl upward along them.
Another option for support is the construction of a wooden pyramid from thin but strong wooden blocks. In the pictures below, see how you can tie climbing roses to make them look beautiful.
After planting a climbing rose, it needs to be provided with intensive care so that it grows faster and its shoots have time to ripen before winter hibernation. Care includes:
- Watering. Water the rose generously (10-20 liters of warm, settled water) as needed before frost sets in. In hot weather and drought, the frequency of watering should be 4-6 times a week, at other times - 2-3 times. Closer to frost, watering should be reduced to once a week.
- Feeding. If you added ash and granular fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium to the planting hole, then 2 nitrogen fertilizations will be sufficient during the season. Young roses prefer organic matter. To do this, 2-3 weeks after planting the bush in the ground, feed it with mullein (1 part in 10 parts of water, infused for 7 days). You can also use an infusion of chicken manure (1 part to 20 parts water, infused for a week). This fertilizing needs to be repeated in mid-summer, but nitrogen cannot be added to the soil in the second half and autumn.
- Loosening and/or mulching e. When a dense crust forms, it must be broken. But this must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Instead of loosening the soil, it can be covered with a layer of mulch - pieces of bark, sawdust, decorative stones.
- Treatment for diseases. During the rainy season, spray the rose once a week with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. The rest of the time, you can treat it once every 2 weeks with Fitosporin or Zircon to build immunity to fungal infections.
- Pest treatment. If a bush is infested with aphids, treat it with a soap solution. If other pests appear, use insecticides (Aktaru, Actellik, Chlorofos or Karbofos). The second treatment should be carried out 1 week after the first.
- Sanitary pruning. In the fall, when the first frosts arrive, the climbing rose needs to be pruned. For sanitary pruning, it is enough to remove all weak, thin, damaged and diseased shoots, as well as those that did not have time to ripen by winter. They cannot be left, as they will die in severe frosts. The same applies to flowers and leaves, if they themselves have not fallen.
- Formative pruning. It can be carried out both in spring and autumn. The rules for the procedure depend on which pruning group your rose belongs to. If flowers form on this year's shoots, then the old shoots need to be shortened greatly. And if flowering occurs only on last year’s stems, then only the top of them needs to be cut off. At mixed type Neither old nor young shoots should be severely pruned.
- Shelter for the winter. If your rose variety is heat-loving (most likely it is), then it must be covered for the winter. There are two ways to do this. The first is to remove the lashes from the support and cover them spruce paws and a layer of waterproof material. The second is to build a frame around the rose and wrap it with roofing felt or other material. Then the void inside the frame is filled with dry leaves and covered with film on top. In any case, the trunk must be hilled up or covered with peat.
climbing roses they look very elegant. With proper care, they can bloom throughout the summer, forming lush blankets of double and fragrant flowers. With them you can disguise all unsightly areas of the garden and outbuildings. They can become the main accent and create a romantic atmosphere. But for this you need to try and give the bush all your love and care.
If you dream of original transformations on your property, be sure to plant climbing roses: care will not be difficult. Lush flowering These roses, which are also called climbing or climbing roses, and their successful combination with other plants will delight even an avid gardener.
Video: which varieties of climbing roses to choose for vertical gardening
These flowers are the leaders of vertical gardening. Interesting ideas multitude. They help arrange all kinds of arches, columns, pyramids, and garlands. A “living” wall along buildings, gazebos, and balconies will delight you with magnificent blooms and give you coolness. Decorative compositions of several varieties look very unusual.
Subtleties of caring for climbing roses
In order for your climbing rose to develop successfully, planting and care must be carried out according to certain rules.
All landing tricks
The main rule for a gardener who wants to get gorgeous climbing roses: care begins with proper planting. Prepare for it in advance.
Choose best place for rose
These picky plants love light and moderate breezes. Lack of sunlight inhibits the ripening of fresh stems that will bloom next season. But do not plant the bushes in a place that is flooded with sun all day - the stems will get burned and the petals will burn out. Shade is needed for at least a few hours a day, then the flowering will be long. The corners of buildings are absolutely not suitable - capricious roses do not tolerate drafts well. It is best if the sun's rays warm up in the first half of the day - the dew will evaporate quickly, and powdery mildew will not be scary.
Determining the landing time
If you do this in the fall, the fragile beauties will not get stronger for the winter and may not survive the frost. Arrange the purchased bushes in a new place in May-June - they will develop well and have time to prepare for the cold weather.
We comply optimal distance
When planting in a row, the distance between the bushes is half a meter - a meter, and between the rows - one to two meters. Step back 35-50 centimeters from the support near the wall and gazebo.
Planting depth is also important. Cover the root collar with a layer of soil about 10 centimeters.
Properly making a hole for planting
If possible, dig up the soil several weeks in advance and add peat, lime and humus. The size of the plant pits is 50x50 centimeters. Before planting, mix the soil with cow dung and pour into the prepared place. Another option is a composition diluted with water from one part manure and two parts clay. An additional three tablets of phosphorobacterin are added to 10 liters of this solution. For acidic soil Add dolomite flour to the mixture. Don't forget to water the planted flowers thoroughly.
Preparing the bush for planting
Trim shoots and roots to a length of 20-30 centimeters. This trick will allow you to form a powerful root system. To ensure that roses quickly recover from microtrauma and prevent infection, cover fresh sections with garden varnish and dust the roots with ash.
Caring for a planted bush
Feeding is required
The best fertilizer considered manure. You can replace it with any organic fertilizer. Mineral fertilizers can be alternated with organic matter or used together. Only during the period of intensive growth, before flowering, carry out at least five feedings. When the plant blooms, do not feed it with manure or similar products anymore.
Requires infrequent and moderate watering
Roses tolerate drought well and do not like excess moisture. Water them once a week. You don't need a lot of water; overwatering will be bad. appearance and the risk of disease.
Climbing roses along the path are formed by bushes
Protection from diseases is necessary
The most common diseases are powdery mildew and bark cancer. The first disease is active in hot, humid weather. Spots appear on the leaves white, which increase over time. The pet stops growing and blooming, and may later die. Treat it with Bordeaux mixture, spray it twice at intervals.
Climbing rose on the wall of the house
Bark cancer is most often discovered in the spring, when the winter shelter is removed. The bark of the shoots is full of bright brown small spots. If you don’t notice them right away, they will grow, turn black and tightly encircle the entire shoot. The only rescue measure is to remove the diseased part with a small inclusion of the healthy part. Only burn the cut material! A favorable environment for this fungus is humidity and darkness. Therefore, as preventive measures, we can recommend timely covering and its removal, as well as the abolition of nitrogen fertilizing in the fall. It is better to replace it with potassium fertilizers.
Pest protection
The most common ones are spider mite and aphids. Inspect the bush - if there are not many pests, try to save the pet with herbs. Boil nettle or horsetail for 20 minutes. Cooled down to room temperature Spray all the leaves and flowers with the decoction. Don’t be afraid to overdo it - the method is absolutely safe for the rose and will not harm it. If applying this measure twice does not help or almost the entire bush is affected, resort to insecticides.
How to protect climbing roses from frost
Trim the tops of immature shoots in advance and tie the branches. Leave them on the support for now. As soon as the thermometer drops to -5 degrees, the roses need to be covered. You shouldn’t do this before: they won’t have time to harden and during prolonged sheltering they will dry out from lack of air and germinate.
Rose and clematis decorate the fence
Carry out work in dry, windless weather. Carefully remove the shoots from the supports and place them on spruce branches or dry leaves. You can’t lay the stems on bare ground! The first layer of reliable shelter consists of natural materials: leaves, grass, spruce branches. Then wrap your pets in plastic film or other waterproof material. Remember that between the roses and the shelter it is necessary air gap.
Important!
You need to remove the cover on time. Do not leave your pets in their shell for a long time in the spring: without fresh air in a humid environment, they will suffocate and get sick. After removing the cover, place the branches on the support correctly: fasten them not vertically, but horizontally or in a spiral, obliquely. In this case, the fresh forces of the rose will be directed to the formation of flowers.
Pruning climbing roses and the secrets of their propagation
True care is impossible without pruning. In the spring, rid your pets of weak and frozen branches - this will also protect them from diseases. In the summer, remove faded shoots - thanks to this measure, the bush will rejuvenate and begin to form replacement shoots.
With proper care, the rose will delight you with its royal beauty
Secrets of reproduction
Propagated by cuttings and layering. The second method is used in the spring. The selected shoot is pressed to the ground, securely secured and part of the trunk is covered with soil. When watering flowers, do not bypass this place. Next spring cut off the grown baby from the mother plant. You have received a beautiful rooted specimen!
Take cuttings for propagation from the middle of shoots that have at least four buds. Only cut material from a faded plant. Plant the cuttings in well-fertilized soil in the shade. Loosening and regular watering will ensure normal development of the seedling.
Red rose on the pergola
The procedures for caring for wonderful flowers are clear and simple; plant climbing roses, and the garden will amaze you with its splendor and sophistication.
Hello, dear friends!
Let's talk today about climbing roses.
Bright and charming, growing, they can cover the space allocated to them with a lush flowering carpet.
With their abundant flowering they delight the eye, and what a aroma it is - like in the Garden of Eden!
Find out how to plant such a rose, how to choose a support for it and how to care for it in our article.
Supports for climbing roses photo
Which rose support to choose? A great many of them were invented.
It all depends on your imagination and wallet. Look at the photos with supports for roses, maybe they will help you decide.
To scroll through the photos yourself, use the arrows when hovering over the photo or the circles at the bottom.
It should be remembered that each idea has its own types of roses.
If you want to plant flowers on a low fence, wall, or trellis, then large-flowered climbing roses, the so-called climbers, are suitable for you.
They grow up to two meters in height, have large fragrant flowers and fairly flexible shoots.
For all kinds of arches and tall structures Rambler climbing roses are more suitable.
They have much longer lashes than climbers, reaching a length of 4-5 meters. At the same time, their stems are flexible, they are easy to shape and bend to guide them along the same arch.
At the same time, ramblers have smaller flowers and their scent is weaker, although this in no way detracts from their beauty. Run along the support and overgrown, they look great.
Remember that a rose does not have natural “attachments” such as the tendrils of a grape or pea. It does not wrap around the support like some kind of bindweed.
To keep the rose on supporting structure, you will need to attach the shoots yourself.
The flowering time for climbers is 20-35 days (they bloom in the first year), for ramblers - 40-50 days (they bloom on last year's shoots).
Planting a climbing rose
First, let's prepare a support for the rose.
In our case, this is a simple bamboo trellis, which will be used for rose shoots.
The best time to plant roses is May and June. But, if the seedling has a closed root system, then these can be planted throughout the summer.
Choose a well-lit, warm place.
Digging a hole for the plant. It should be slightly larger than its root system.
If you plant a rose in the summer, moisten the soil inside.
Inside the pit we pour nutritious soil: peat + leaf humus + sand in a ratio of 2:2:1.
Remove the plant from the container. We check the roots; any rotten or dry ones will need to be cut off.
A very important point: the place where the rose is grafted needs to be deepened by about 3 fingers.
What is this for? This is necessary so that the rose located on the rosehip can take root on its own. Without them, the plant will slowly but surely begin to die!
Burying also helps stop the growth of the rosehip shoots on which the rose is usually grafted.
How to find a vaccination site? As a rule, it is immediately visible; this is the thickest place on the rose trunk near the roots.
We pour nutritious soil around the earthen ball and compact it with our hands so that there are no gaps.
We shed the tree trunk circle well.
The top needs to be mulched with the remaining soil.
We attach the rosette to the support using garters.
Ready! As it grows, it will be possible to attach the lashes to the side columns, creating the desired composition.
Caring for a climbing rose
Lighting
A well-lit, sunny place is required.
Watering
Regular (every 7-10 days) a bucket of water, more often in hot weather.
Top dressing
The rose can be fed with organic fertilizers: diluted mullein, horse manure, compost.
And also complex mineral fertilizers for roses
In the first year, it is advisable not to get carried away with fertilizing.
Trimming
Different types of roses require different pruning approaches.
Climbers undergo only shaping trimming. Their shoots bloom again the next year, so they do not require pruning after flowering.
Ramblers are the opposite. Firstly, they bloom only on last year's shoots. This means that all young shoots must be preserved so that they bloom next summer.
Secondly, these roses do not bloom repeatedly on the same shoots. That is, a branch that has bloomed this year will need to be cut off, because it will not bloom again.
Reproduction
Climbing roses reproduce well by cuttings and layering.
Using a sharp knife, cut a stalk 10-15 cm long, remove large leaves from it.
We prepare a special place with light soil, with the addition of sand and without direct sunlight.
Place the cutting in the ground, moisten the soil and cover with a jar.
It will take a month to a month and a half for the cutting to take root.
You will see new leaves grow - this means the shoot has taken root safely and can continue to exist without the jar.
Very good method propagation by layering. It is completely non-traumatic for the plant.
It consists in taking flexible side shoots and digging them in with earth.
In this case, the cuttings are not separated from the mother plant.
Due to the fact that it is in contact with the ground, it will take root on its own and form its own bush.
The place for layering must be prepared: dig a small ditch, fertilize it with a nutrient substrate so that the buried shoot takes root more readily.
How to cover a climbing rose for the winter
Thanks to its flexibility, the climbing rose easily bends to the ground, which makes it quite easy to cover it.
At a constant temperature of -5 degrees, the lashes are removed from the support, tied together and bowed to the ground in a single sheaf.
On a “cushion” of peat or sawdust. The plant is fixed in this position with slingshots, preferably wooden ones (metal and plastic freeze very much and can damage the plant).
You can rightfully call it the queen of the garden, and with proper care and planting, it will become the subject of your pride and the envy of your neighbors.
Let's talk about how to properly care for such a beauty so that she will delight you all season long.
Brief description and popular varieties
Climbing roses are ideal for arches or wall decoration in a private home. These are tall, climbing and tenacious plants that definitely need a warm and mild climate and obligatory shelter for the winter. According to the international classification, there are 3 characteristics of roses:
- semi-climbing roses, growing from 1.5 to 3 m in height;
- climbing- reach a height of 5 m;
- curly- reach 15 meters.
1. Climber- resembles a tall, erect one. The flowers are different large size and strong aroma. An excellent decoration for a flat wall or grid. Common varieties:
- PinkCloud
- Paul Scarlet
- Roseanne
2. Rambler It is distinguished by its flexibility and easy bending of shoots. Densely decorated with small weak-scented flowers that grow only on the shoots of the second year:
- Ghistiane de Felidonde
- Bobby James
- Paul Noel
3. Claiming- a non-frost-resistant variety that may not overwinter even under cover. The inflorescences are small and sparse, but the diameter of the flowers can be from 5 to 11 cm, and the plant also has a strong aroma.
- Orange Triumph
- Cecilia Brunner
- City of York
4. Climbing rose Cordesa(Hybrid Kordesii) is unpretentious and winter-hardy, blooms from early summer to late October. It features an ideal flower shape and long flowering. Can winter without shelter:
- Hamburger Phoenix
- Flammentanz
5. Lambert- abundantly flowering shrub with dark foliage, disease resistant:
- Munich
6. - a shrub, the height of which can reach 3 m, abundantly strewn with white or light pink simple flowers 1.5-2 cm in diameter with a mild aroma:
- Snow White
- General Tetar
- Grousse en Zabern
- Melita
- Mosel
7. - creeping and tenacious shrub, native to Japan and China, reaches a height of 6 m, has large curved thorns:
- Excelsa
- Red poppy
- Alberic Barbier
- Glen Dale
- Aelita
8. - from 5 to 12 m tall, small flowers - 1-3 cm. Characterized by early flowering, from April to early July. There are such varieties of Banks rose:
- Alba Plena
- Banksia hybrida
- Lutea Plena
Did you know?In Germany, near the walls of Hildesheim Castle, the most old bush roses in a world that is already about 1000 years old.
Growing conditions
Boarding time
The best time for planting will be the warm days of May, when the earth has warmed up and stable warm weather has established itself. Then you will know exactly what will take root and be ready for the winter. You can plant it in the fall, but it is better to do this in September so that the rose has time to take root before the first frost.
How to plant a climbing rose
Selection and preparation of seedlings
The day before the expected date, the seedlings are soaked in water. It is advisable to dip not only the root system, but the entire seedling. Before planting, we cut off the long tufted shoots of the root system, leaving 15-20 cm on each side. You can disinfect the plant by dipping it in a solution of 3% copper sulfate. We lubricate the cut places on the shoots with garden varnish, and on the roots - to avoid infection by fungus or infection. These simple procedures will contribute to rapid and proper growth and development. 
Pit preparation
Important!The climbing rose is not a plant that will appreciate over-watering. This increases the air humidity around the bush too much, contributing to the appearance and development of fungal diseases.
Fertilizer
Fertilize with complex fertilizer. Repeat feeding every 2-3 weeks. The second feeding can be done with a mixture of ash and ash, diluted with water, for root feeding, as this will contribute to bright and abundant flowering. All fertilizing should be carried out during the growing season and before flowering.
From mid-summer, roses stop fertilizing and switch to potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. This is necessary to gradually prepare the plant for dormancy and wintering.
Trimming
It is one of the most important and responsible procedures for its care, since the quality of flowering and the formation of new strong shoots directly depends on it.
Every spring, regardless of the type of roses, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged and unhealthy shoots. Further pruning directly depends on whether your shrub is a once-blooming or repeat-blooming one. 
In a climbing rose, which blooms once per season, buds appear both on the current year's shoots and on last year's shoots. On old shoots, replacement shoots appear throughout the summer, which will take over the bulk of the flowering next year. Therefore, they leave 3-5 of the strongest two-year shoots, and the same number of one-year ones.
If the rose is re-blooming, then the buds appear on all shoots up to 4 years old, and only weaken in the 5th year. Therefore, the main shoots in this case are removed in the 4th year of growth, leaving space for new ones.
Treatment against pests and diseases
The most dangerous and common diseases of climbing roses are:
1. Its appearance is provoked by high air humidity in the heat and excessive watering. Characterized by white spots on the trunk and leaves. All affected parts are cut out and burned, treating the plant or copper sulfate.
2. . Appears as brown or brown spots on leaves and stems. They cut out the affected areas, including a little of the unaffected ones nearby, and burn them. The plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture.
3. . This is the name for small brown spots that grow over time and affect the entire plant. There are currently no drugs on the market that can combat this disease, so prevention is important. Before purchasing, carefully inspect the plant for stains. Before planting, dip in a solution of copper sulfate. And if the disease has already been identified, then immediately cut out and burn all affected areas. 
The most common lovers of roses are:
