Rose is a plant belonging to the Rosehip family. In the wild, these flowers mainly grow in temperate climate Northern Hemisphere, but in ours middle lane In Russia, roses are grown when planting and caring for open ground, as well as at home.
General information
Roses are very attractive and are used not only as ordinary ones. garden plants or houseplants. They are used in garden construction, they make jam from rose petals, as well as rose oil.
Growing up, roses form bushes with their shoots, the height of which differs depending on the type of plant. Some types of roses reach 30 cm in height, while others grow more than two and a half meters.
The branches of the plant are divided into uterine and annual stems. The leaf shape differs depending on the type of flower.
The size of the peduncle also varies among different species. It can be short, or it can grow almost a meter. Rose flowers come in various shapes and colors, the size varies from a couple of centimeters in diameter to 15-20 cm. The number of petals in flowers also varies, from 5 to 120 pieces.
Roses come in all colors possible colors– pink, black, white, even blue roses have been bred. And the pinnacle of breeders’ achievements are varieties that change color during flowering.
It is impossible to describe the huge variety of roses. Among cultivated roses, park and garden roses are distinguished; it is also worth remembering indoor varieties. The most commonly grown roses are bush roses, climbing roses, miniature roses, floribunda roses and grandiflora roses.
Rose planting and care in open ground
Roses are quite demanding plants, so planting and caring for them requires knowledge of the characteristics of this flower.
It is best to plant roses in the fall, but not later than mid-season. It is also recommended to purchase material for planting in the autumn, since in the spring they often sell leftovers from last year.
Rose hips are light-loving and you should choose an unshaded place for growing them, but if you have climbing roses, it is better that the midday sun does not burn them. Drafts and north wind have a bad effect on plants, and do not plant flowers in places where groundwater approach high to the surface.
To plant roses, you need to drain the soil, which should be slightly acidic (about 6 pH), fertility is not so important, but it affects the beauty of flowering, so fertile substrates are welcome.
Before planting roses, the seedlings are shortened to 20 cm and placed in water for a couple of hours. A hole for the rose is dug approximately 50 cm in depth, and the depth is made 10 cm deeper than its roots.
The soil from the pit must be mixed with compost. For three shares of soil, one share of compost is taken. It is also worth mixing a little ash into the substrate, and pouring a bucket of water with a heteroauxin tablet into the hole.
The rose is planted so that the grafting site drops four centimeters into the soil, and for climbing roses- by ten.
The flower must be placed in the hole and carefully filled with substrate, trampling it down as the hole is filled. Young plants need to be hilled up to 15 cm and provided with shading for 15 days. Climbing roses spud up to 20 cm.
A distance of at least a meter must be maintained between landing sites.
Not far from the bushes, you need to heat up a small shaft of soil so that the water does not spread when watering.
If the groundwater is too high on your site, then you need to make an elevated flower bed for the roses, otherwise the roots will often rot.
Also, if the soil where you want to plant plants is very clayey, then you need to dig it up with sand.
Planting roses in open ground in spring
Young roses may not withstand very cold winters, so if you live in very frosty regions, plant flowers in the spring. The best period at this time is mid-April and almost all of May.
The planting process in spring is almost no different from autumn. Right before planting, the seedlings should be dipped in clay mash, and after planting, the area should be covered with mulch.
If there is a threat of frost, then the stems must be covered with film, which must be removed for a while every day for ventilation. The time without film should be gradually increased, since the plants are hardened in this way. The film is completely removed when the frost is probably gone.
During the first year after planting, roses go through a period of formation. At this time, the main thing is to pinch the stems to improve bushiness. It is also important in the first half of the summer to remove flower buds as soon as they begin to appear. In the second period of summer, the buds are also removed, but after formation. If you have a climbing rose, then it needs to be supported.
Watering roses
You don’t need to water the flowers often, but only as needed, when the soil dries out. Only first-year plants need regular watering, which should be watered every couple of days.
During the growing season, watering is carried out a little more often to green mass developed better. And at the end of summer, on the contrary, watering is reduced. It is preferable to carry out the procedure in the morning. Cold water should not be used.
You need to water the bushes carefully, because water can erode the soil; it is best to use drip irrigation.
Fertilizers for roses
As far as fertilizer goes, the first yearlings do not need to be fed at all. Next, fertilizers must be applied in this way.
In the spring, during the active growth stage, a double dose of fertilizer is applied, then fertilizing is carried out during the appearance of buds, at the end of flowering and before the stems begin to wooden.
In the spring, 20 grams of ammonium sulfate per square meter of soil is used for fertilizer. After a couple of weeks, this fertilizer is repeated. During the formation of buds, fertilizing is carried out using 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per square meter.
At the end of flowering, the plant is fed with complex fertilizer, and in the fall with potassium salt with superphosphate, approximately 30 grams per square meter. Among organic fertilizers, chicken droppings, ashes, and manure are excellent. Fertilizers are not applied during the flowering period.
For adult roses, it is possible to fertilize only with organic matter, but do not overdo it, otherwise the plant may produce dense foliage but not bloom.
When to replant roses
Over time, roses grow and lose their beauty and when this happens they need to be replanted. Transplantation is best done in April or October, but spring is still preferred.
Before replanting, the bush is cut to 20 cm, and all leaves are torn off. The bush must be removed from the soil along with the earthen lump. To make it easier to move, the roots are placed on a piece of cloth. You can plant a rose with this fabric; it will rot over time.
Climbing roses are transplanted much less frequently, usually this happens only if chosen bad place for growing and if the plant dies in its old place. When transplanting this variety of roses, you need to be more careful, since their roots are more sensitive than others.
Pruning roses
Bushes need to be pruned in spring, summer and autumn. Spring pruning It is carried out to form the shape of the bush; in summer it is carried out to clean the bushes from excess buds, withered flowers, and fruits. In autumn, bad stems are removed from the plant.
Pruning is carried out until the buds swell. Only strong branches should be left, of which young ones are preferred.
Old plants need to be pruned more carefully, as they restore the crown worse, and the same applies to flowers planted on poor soil. After the operation, the cut areas must be treated with garden varnish.
In the fall, these rose hips do not require watering or special care other than weeding and loosening the soil.
Preparing roses for the winter
Before winter, they need to be covered with a mixture of peat and sand. Hilling is carried out with the onset of the first frost, and the area is covered with film to prevent precipitation from falling on them.
Before wintering, the leaves are torn off the plants and burned. It is also advisable to treat the bushes with a one percent solution of copper sulfate. When the night temperature drops to -6ºC, roses are insulated with spruce branches.
To prevent rodents from disturbing your plants in winter, you need to scatter poisonous baits throughout the flowerbed.
If you have covered the area with insulation and oilcloth, then from time to time it will need to be ventilated so that the bushes do not get stuck.
Climbing roses should be removed from their supports and lowered to the ground before winter. Old roses do not lie well and therefore, you will need to bend them to the ground gradually. This procedure must be carried out at above-zero temperatures, otherwise the bushes will break. Before wintering, the climbing rose is pinned in the soil and insulated in the same way as a regular one.
Rose home care at home
If you want to get an indoor rose, then remember that they don’t like cold water and too hot temperatures in the summer.
When buying a plant, you should not rush to replant it; first you need to wait for the rose to get used to the new conditions.
During the period of growing green mass, you need to water the rose well, and other times, watering is carried out a little less frequently, but make sure that the water does not stagnate in the pot.
Rose transplantation is carried out by transshipment during the waxing moon phase. It is necessary to carry out an operation if the plant has filled the entire pot, if the soil in the container with the plant is depleted, or if the plant is old and needs to be rejuvenated.
Good for summer indoor rose will move her to the balcony. You can start putting out the flower after the night temperature becomes warm. At first, the rose needs to be kept in the shade so that it adapts, and then it is moved to diffused light.
For winter, the stems need to be cut so that there are 4 buds on each branch. Pruning can also be done in the spring, before the plant begins to develop. In winter, the flower is watered once every three days and sprayed.
Roses are very sensitive to drafts and protecting the plants with a paper cylinder will be a good solution to this problem (the height of the cylinder is about half the flower).
Propagation of roses by seeds
Roses are propagated by seeds and vegetative methods. Seed propagation usually used only for wild roses, and not all of them can produce full seeds.
The material is taken at the stage when the fruits become red. This usually happens in August or a little earlier.
Next, stratification is carried out in wet sand at a temperature of about 3 ºC. With the onset of spring, the seeds are treated with stimulants for better root formation and sown to a depth of two centimeters, and then covered with humus mulch.
When the sprouted roses have a pair of true leaves, they are replanted so that the seedlings are 7 cm apart and the gap between the rows is 20 cm. In summer, the area with young roses must be fertilized with mineral fertilizer.
Until next August you need to take care of the bushes, and then they are taken as a rootstock.
Rose propagation by cuttings in summer
Usually the most best result obtained by propagation by cuttings, which can be done in different ways.
For simple natural way During summer rooting of shoots, you need to cut off the stems in the evening or early morning. Slightly woody shoots or those that will soon begin to bloom or have recently faded are preferred.
You can find out that the stem is ready for propagation by breaking off the thorn on it. If it breaks off easily, then you can use the shoot as a cutting.
The length of the cuttings should be approximately 14 cm, and each of them should have a pair of leaves and buds without flowers. Excess leaves are torn off.
The incision is treated with a means to stimulate root growth and placed in water, to which pieces of a rose leaf are added.
The cuttings are planted directly into the ground, having previously treated the planting holes with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The branches need to be covered with jars that will serve as greenhouses for them. Young cuttings are very sensitive and the daytime temperature should not drop below 25 ºC and the night temperature 19ºC until rooting takes place.
Propagation of roses by cuttings in potatoes
An interesting way is to root cuttings in potatoes. To do this in the spring, you need to dig a shallow trench, about 15 cm, and fill it 5 cm with sand.
Twenty-centimeter cuttings are stuck into potatoes, from which all the eyes need to be cut out, and then they are simply placed in your small moat with sand. At first, seedlings can be kept under glass jars.
It is important to constantly water the cuttings, and once every 5 days, water with sweetened water (2 teaspoons of sugar per glass of water).
How to propagate a rose from cuttings from a bouquet
If you were given a bouquet of domestic roses, then they can be used for propagation. Imported flowers are not suitable as they are treated with preservatives.
All flowers, thorns, buds are removed from the cuttings, and the leaves from below are removed and shortened from above. The stem itself is cut to 20 cm. Next, it is simply placed in distilled water, which is changed until roots appear.
Further procedures do not differ from those described above for conventional cuttings.
Propagation of roses by cuttings in a bag
The finished cuttings are placed in a bag with moist soil, inflated and tied well, and then placed on the windowsill. In about a month, roots should form and the cuttings can be planted.
Replanting cuttings is done before winter, if you want to plant cuttings in the spring or if you received the desired cutting late and it seems difficult to preserve it.
Just dig the shoot into the soil and arrange a dry shelter for it so that the cold does not reach it, and in the spring, plant the cutting.
Propagation of roses using the Burito method
The Burito method is completely unreliable, since root formation does not occur even in 50% of cases. But sometimes it still happens.
The cuttings should be treated with a means to stimulate root growth, and then placed in damp newspaper in a dark, warm place (about 17ºC). You will have a chance that after 15 days the cuttings will form roots, but let's be honest - this chance is scanty.
Rose propagation using the Trannois method
To propagate by this type, you need to cut off the top of the shoot with a flaccid flower and several small leaves. Then it is monitored until the buds from below begin to swell. This indicates that the stem is ready for growing season.
At this time, the cuttings need to be cut to 20 cm, all leaves except the top two should be removed and planted in a well-lit area, several copies at once in one hole. The cuttings need to be covered with a large plastic container, which is not removed until the cold weather. The seedlings will need to be watered occasionally and the soil next to them loosened.
This method is also quite unreliable, but still better than the previous one.
Propagation of roses by grafting
They need to be grafted onto young rose hips. The dog rose and its varieties are considered the best for this, but others can also be used. The vaccination is usually done in mid-summer.
To do this, the side stems are removed from the rootstock and its root neck is cleared of soil. A T-shaped incision is made on it into which the cutting is placed. After 20 days, check the condition of the kidney. If it swells, then everything is fine, but if it turns black, then the grafting failed. Before wintering, grafted roses are planted 5 cm above the grafting level.
In the spring, the ground is raked, and the plant on which the grafting was carried out is cut off a centimeter above the grafting site. When the flower begins to grow, it will need to be pinched above the third leaf.
Reproduction of roses by dividing the bush is possible only for ungrafted species
For such propagation, you need to dig up the rose in the spring, even before the buds begin to bloom, and cut it so that each section contains a part of the root and a shoot. The cut areas are powdered with charcoal and then parts of the bush are simply planted like ordinary roses.
To propagate a rose by layering, you need in early spring make a circular cut on the stem that grows from the root collar, and then bend it into the hole, secure it and sprinkle it with moist soil. Next, the soil will need to be moistened until the fall, when the cuttings take root. It will be possible to separate the cub from the mother next spring.
Diseases and pests
The most dangerous pests for roses are aphids and spider mites . In the early stages, you can fight aphids by simply cutting off the leaves or crushing the aphids, you can also wash the leaves with soap, but if this does not help, you need to buy an insecticide “for roses and grapes” in a specialized store.
WITH spider mite You can fight with an infusion of wormwood or tobacco, but if the pest has spread too much, it is better to buy a means to combat it. This pest attacks the rose if it grows in dry conditions and lacks moisture.
The rose can also be attacked thrips , cicadas , rose sawfly , but if you properly care for the plant, they will not appear.
Rose diseases
One of the diseases dangerous to roses is bacterial cancer , which can be recognized by growths that gradually harden. This disease cannot be cured and the plant will die.
Inspect the material before purchasing, and also disinfest it before planting with three percent Bordeaux mixture. If you notice growths on the plant, try removing the leaves and processing the cuts copper sulfate, but there is no guarantee that you will have time to help the flower.
Koniothirium This is a disease that affects the bark of plants. It appears in the form brown spots, which darken over time and “ring” the stem. These shoots must be cut off and burned immediately. Also, if this disease is detected, before winter you need to stop fertilizing the rose with nitrogen and replace it with potassium fertilizers.
powdery rose appears as white spots. Diseased areas should be immediately removed and burned, and the plant should be treated with iron (3%) or copper (2%) sulfate.
Brown spots on the leaves and the falling of the latter indicate black spot . To prevent the development of the disease, you need to fertilize the rose with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the fall, and also treat the plant and the area where it is grown with Bordeaux mixture (3%).
Also the rose can get sick gray mold , after which the plant is most often burned. But, if the fungus has not taken hold, then you can try to cure it with Bordeaux solution diluted in water (100 grams per bucket). Process this way sick plant it will be necessary 3-4 times every seven days.
Possible difficulties:
- If your rose doesn't bloom , then perhaps you simply purchased a weak plant or a variety that rarely blooms. This also happens if the flower lacks light or nutrients. The lack of flowering can be caused by freezing in winter. But the most dangerous reason for the lack of flowering, in which the rose loses its varietal properties, is the wildness of the plant.
- If you notice shoots with small leaves and an abundance of thorns , then cut them off immediately (usually such stems appear from the very bottom of the bush). If you don’t fight them, then over time these shoots take over the entire bush and it runs wild.
- The leaves of the roses are falling they can if they are affected by pests or disease, and besides this, the cause is often hidden in the roots of the plant. The root can rot, and there are also cases of damage by mole crickets or chafer larvae, mice and moles.
- Rose leaves turn yellow , in addition to diseases, may be from a basic lack of useful substances such as: nitrogen, iron and manganese, as well as potassium.
With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn yellow alternately. First, this happens to the bottom layer, which falls off after yellowing. Next, the same fate awaits the middle leaves, and then the entire bush. With a lack of potassium, the leaves begin to turn yellow at the edges, and then dry out. If there is a lack of microelements, the veins on the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow. Another cause of yellowness is excess moisture in the soil.
Actually the best site our garden, but not everything is so simple.
Our queen is not only beautiful, but also very capricious, strict and whimsical, however, like all real queens, she requires constant attention.
She may not forgive even our small mistakes. Therefore, it is very important for us to also know what the queen of the garden loves and cannot stand, how to monitor her appearance, how to feed and water her, how she reproduces and how to prepare her for winter so that her ladyship does not freeze.
How care for roses? This question is asked by all beginning gardeners.
Many of them are guided by the advice of friends and make many mistakes.
Competent must take place taking into account the recommendations experienced gardeners- only in this case your beauties will delight you with their fragrance and exquisite appearance for up to 10 years (that’s how long a rose grows in one place).
Events calendar
|
Spring work |
|
| March | Start of removing winter shelters (from the end of March). If it’s a little cold in March, move it to April. |
| April | Removal of winter shelters (complete removal by April 30). Prevention of bushes, sanitary and anti-aging pruning of roses in spring, weed removal, loosening and mulching. Installation of supports and garter. Formative pruning of freshly planted seedlings. |
| May | Pruning for flowering, loosening, removing weeds, applying fertilizers, preventive treatment of soil and bushes against diseases. |
|
Summer care |
|
| June | Time of first flowering. The second preventive treatment for diseases. Removing faded flowers, watering, loosening, weeding. Applying fertilizers after flowering. |
| July | A month of abundant flowering. Removing faded flowers, watering, loosening. Application of fertilizers (in the second half of the month). |
| August | Summer preventative pruning (removal of diseased shoots and wilted flowers), watering, loosening, weeding. |
|
Autumn rose care |
|
| September | Application of fertilizers (beginning of the month). Start preparing plants for winter. Stop any feeding and remove up to 1/3 of all leaves, starting from the bottom of the bush (at the end of the month). |
| October | Sanitary pruning (after setting the temperature to -5-7° C), final watering and hilling. At the end of the month, insulate the plants and construct winter shelters. |
| November | Complete removal of all remaining leaves and debris. When snow falls, it is good to compact it near the bushes (to prevent rodents from entering the roses). |
Rose care After winter, it begins with cleaning winter shelters. They need to be removed gradually, from the ends, starting when the threat of frost below -10° C has passed.
At night (and during the day in cold winds), the ends of the shelters must be closed again.
When should roses be fully opened in spring? As soon as stable warm weather sets in, all covering material can be removed.
Watering the beauties
Rose – extremely moisture-loving plant, but watering care for roses depends on the phase of plant development. It needs the most abundant watering during the growing season (when the buds stretch, the growth of leaves and shoots and the first blooming of flowers begin).
At this time, the plant especially needs nutrients. And without water, fertilizers will not be absorbed; if there is little moisture, all fertilizing will be ineffective.
- For irrigation, use settled water heated under natural conditions. Cold water from a hose or well will not work - cool watering can make the roses sick. Water your beauties once a week (twice in hot weather). Water consumption is 5-10 l (for ground-blooded plants), 10-15 l (for climbing plants) per bush.
After watering, loosen the soil well. Otherwise, a dense crust will form on the ground. It will not allow the roots of our roses to breathe.
But you can get rid of constant loosening by mulching (leaf humus, chopped straw, rotted manure, tree bark or peat are ideal for mulch).
Autumn watering of roses. Roses' need for water decreases at this time. If the autumn turns out to be rainy, we stop watering in September.
In warm, dry weather, water the roses once weekly, but reduce the volume of water by 3-5 liters.
Very important stage– pre-winter watering. Before the onset of cold weather, we need to water the roses very generously - at least 30 liters per bush.
Caring for roses - fertilizing
All fertilizers can be divided into natural (organic) and mineral (obtained artificially). Mineral supplements must be combined with organic matter.
And don't overdo it with fertilization. Their excess can weaken the plant.
Mineral supplements
The most important elements for proper care of roses: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and a number of other microelements.
♦ Nitrogen. Thanks to him, roses have leaves and shoots that grow well. Roses especially need it at the beginning of the growing season (spring), after pruning and before new flowering. Nitrogen application: early May-early August.
♦ Potassium. Responsible for general state plants. It is especially necessary for roses during flowering, budding and in preparation for winter. Application of potassium: June-October.
♦ Phosphorus. It helps the rose grow strong shoots, develop strong root system and ensures flowering quality. Application of phosphorus: June-September. Please note that phosphorus can only be absorbed by roses in combination with potassium.
Proper feeding of roses requires the addition of other microelements: magnesium (responsible for the rich color of flowers), iron, boron and manganese (increase the plant’s resistance to diseases).
Before applying any fertilizer, do not forget to water the plants - fertilizers in dry soil will not be effective in caring for roses.
- First feeding. It is done in the spring during the swelling and growth of the buds. Fertilizers (nitrophoska, ammophos or diammophos) are applied into the groove at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bush (consumption 30 g per bush).
- Second feeding. It is carried out in the first phase of budding. You can use the same fertilizers or make a mixture of saltpeter (15 g), superphosphate (30 g) and potassium salt (20 g).
- Third feeding. It is carried out after the first flowering. In the second half of summer, choose complex fertilizers marked "autumn". Superphosphate, azophoska, potassium magnesium and potassium nitrate are good. Do this feeding once every 14-20 days until the end of August.
- Fourth feeding. It must be done in mid-September. It is best to use potassium magnesium.
Fertilizers for roses in the first year of life. If you did it correctly planting pits(with the addition of a nutrient mixture) - caring for roses in the first year of development will not require additional feeding.
And if the disembarkation took place at normal garden soil– in the first year of life, feed the beauty organic matter, mineral fertilizers not required yet.
For a young rose, watering with a growth stimulator (sodium humate) will be useful.
Foliar fertilizer for roses. Roses can also receive nutrition through the aerial part. Spraying nutrients carried out in case of weakening of the plant.
In order not to burn the leaves, the nutrient solution is prepared two times weaker than regular feeding. The procedure is carried out in the evening or early morning.
Organic fertilizers
In the spring and early summer, it would be ideal to use a liquid infusion of mullein.
In the second decade of summer and autumn, wood ash is perfect for caring for roses.
You can also use these two components: add manure (2 kg) and ash (1 kg) to a bucket of water. Let it sit for several days and water the roses at the rate of ½ bucket per bush.
To eliminate the smell, sprinkle the flooded soil with wood ash or chalk and loosen it to a depth of 5 cm.
- It is strictly forbidden to introduce fresh bird droppings or cow dung(especially after spring planting). For young seedlings, such fertilizer is destructive. To obtain good remedy, should be diluted with 1 liter of mushy manure (litter) in 10 liters of water. The infusion is fermented for about 10 days.
Calcium is also very important for roses. It is found in chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash, slaked lime and organic matter.
Calcium neutralizes acidified soils and creates a favorable environment for the activity of bacteria that decompose nutritional supplements.
Created on the basis of calcium organic fertilizer for caring for roses "Deoxidizer".
Forming and pruning roses
How to prune roses. Roses undergo several types of pruning, depending on the age of the seedling, plant variety and period.
◊ Sanitary pruning. First, we cut off all rotten, broken and diseased branches. Pruning is carried out from the side of the outer bud so that there are fewer branches growing deeper into the bush.
- Pay attention to the cut! At strong shoots he white, if the branches are frozen, the cut will be brown, in this case we cut it to a healthy place.
Then we cut back weak, unproductive and thin shoots.
Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring after removing the covers, in the summer if necessary, and in the fall before the roses go to winter rest.
◊ Formative pruning of roses. With this operation we will give the bush a beautiful, symmetrical and lush look. It is especially important to carry out the formation in the first year of a flower’s life after planting.
Seedlings are usually sold already trimmed - they just need to remove unusable shoots. If the branches are long, we shorten them, preserving several buds on each.
In summer, we pinch young roses at 3-4 leaves (this is especially important when caring for hybrid tea roses). The first buds also need to be removed.
In August we stop the formation - the young rose can be given the opportunity to bloom in order to prevent the development of young branches - the young shoots will not have time to get stronger before the cold weather.
◊ Anti-aging pruning. In all roses, the main shoots weaken their flowering as they age. And every year fresh, young branches grow.
To provide roses abundant flowering and long life, anti-aging pruning is carried out.
Old shoots are pruned before the young branch begins to grow. You can remove all shoots older than 4 years (it is not advisable to leave them).
There are some differences in pruning different types of roses:
- Hybrid tea. Mandatory circumcision. All old shoots are removed, the middle branches are cut in half, and the young ones are cut to 3-5 buds.
- Floribunda. This species requires combined pruning. In the first year of life, shoots are left with 3-5 buds; in subsequent years they are cut to one third of their length; three-year-old branches must be cut completely.
- Climbing large-flowered. When caring for roses of climbing varieties, only five-year-old branches are removed.
- Ramblers. These species bloom once on mature, overwintered shoots. They should be pruned only after flowering has ended.
◊ Pruning for flowering. This procedure is aimed at ensuring good flowering. It is done taking into account the age of the escape.
Rose buds differ in their degree of maturity and ability to bloom. The upper ones produce early, but not large flowers.
And with strong pruning, short shoots awaken the lower buds to life, from which large, beautiful flowers bloom, suitable for cutting.
- There are types of roses (for example, Ramblers), for which it is important to preserve the entire length of the branches. They bloom only on old shoots from last year.
Pruning for flowering can be of three types:
- Strong. With this method, one third of the shoot height is left. This pruning is necessary to stimulate the growth of branches from the base of the bush. But you cannot do heavy pruning every year - it weakens the plant.
- Moderate. This pruning leaves almost half of the shoot.
- Weak. Cuts branches to 1/3 of the shoot height.
Roses must be pruned using sharp pruning shears. The cut is made at an angle of 45º 5-6 cm above the intended bud.
The ideal cut is smooth, without cracks or burrs. Sometimes, after pruning, strong bushes begin to grow 2-3 shoots from one bud at once. We leave the central one and remove the side ones.
Treat the cuts with garden varnish. This will protect open wounds from flies and rot. Garden varnish can be prepared in several ways:
- Mix crushed rosin (3 parts) into melted paraffin (6 parts). Bring the mixture to a boil and pour in vegetable oil(2 parts). Boil the resulting mass for about 10 minutes.
- Separately heat rosin, nigrol and paraffin (1 kg each). Then mix the mixtures into one and mix well.
- Add natural drying oil (230 ml) and liquid hot paraffin (5 kg) to melted rosin (1 kg).
Care of roses for winter holidays
There is no need to rush with this procedure when caring for roses. With a gradual decrease in temperature in the plant, a concentration of internal forces occurs. Roses harden themselves.
But, if you miss the time of covering (this means the temperature drops below -5° C), the rose shoots will freeze from the inside, and in the spring they will rot.
- Optimal times for covering roses for the winter: late October - early November (for the middle zone).
Not all roses need to be protected from frost. Ancient garden varieties (with the exception of Bourbon, Chinese and tea varieties), even in very harsh winters do not need shelter.
Such species bloom once and quickly finish growing. Their wood manages to prepare itself for the cold.
And almost everything needs to be covered modern views(except for wrinkled rose hybrids).
Plant preparation
Our roses need to remove the entire lower part of the leaves and dry shoots. Trim the stems. This must be done in advance so that the wounds heal.
First we will add root-strengthening fertilizer:
- In August. Nutrient solution: per 10 liters of water superphosphate (25 g), potassium sulfate (10 g), borax (3.5 g), boric acid (2.5 g) per 4 sq. m.
- In the first half of September. Nutrient solution: for 10 liters of water, monophosphate or potassium sulfate (16 g) and superphosphate (15 g).
In September, soil loosening and plant formation stop (so that young shoots do not develop). If they grow, they should be pinched.
All autumn buds must be carefully bent at the base (so that the rose does not exhaust its strength before wintering).
Caring for roses during this period consists of hilling with loose soil or leaf humus 10 cm high.
Additionally, you can insulate the roots of plants with a mixture of organic matter and fallen leaves with the addition of coniferous spruce branches.
The main shelter is made by the end of October-beginning of November.
Covering methods
The most optimal method is air-dry. To do this, shields made of boards in the form of pitched roof. The shields are covered with a film on top, creating a greenhouse effect.
If the winter is not expected to be particularly snowy, but cold, a layer of snow is poured onto the shields.
- The total height of the entire canopy will be about half a meter (so that trimmed rose bushes can be freely placed under it).
In a similar way, you can create a shelter in the form small greenhouse based on a wire frame. In this case, the roses need to be additionally insulated with covering material (on top of the film).
Many varieties of roses require additional insulation measures. Especially young seedlings.
♦ Hybrid tea. For these roses, temperatures from -10°C are destructive. In the pre-winter care of roses, the bushes are additionally covered with light frames made of slats, which are lined with corrugated cardboard, burlap or polypropylene.
♦ Floribunda. They are more resistant to cold than tea leaves. Mature, healthy bushes can do without additional shelters. Young seedlings are placed in cardboard boxes without a bottom. The inside of the bush is lined with crumpled newspapers, old bark or wood chips.
♦ Climbing. Such varieties require covering of shoots along the entire length. In young bushes, the lashes are removed from the supports in advance (while they remain flexible).
It is better to do this during the October hilling period. The removed lashes are placed between coniferous spruce branches and covered non-woven material.
If the lashes have grown very large, they are not removed from the supports. Right along with the trellises, they are covered with burlap or wrapped in thick paper for 2/3 of the length.
Our roses are ready for the winter holidays. While they are sleeping and gaining strength, let's get acquainted with our beauties.
This will be discussed in the next article.
See you soon, dear readers!
- Type: Rosaceae
- Flowering period: June July August September
- Height: 30-300cm
- Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, burgundy
- perennial
- Winters
- Sun-loving
- Moisture-loving
If the lion is the king of beasts, then the rose is the undisputed queen of the garden. Since ancient times, this plant has been considered an object of admiration and worship. It’s not for nothing that she was chosen as a symbol of love. The first mentions of roses can be found in the legends of the ancient Hindus. Legends of beautiful flower are also found in chronicles Ancient Iran. According to legend, Allah himself created a charming white Rose with very sharp thorns. She was supposed to become the mistress of flowers instead of the magnificent, but very lazy Lotus. Today this plant can become a real decoration for your garden, but to do this you need to learn how to choose and plant a seedling, what proper care for roses.
Planting and caring for roses is not as difficult as it seems. It's important to follow simple rules, and your garden will be filled with magnificent fragrant bushes.
Selecting and saving seedlings
To initially ensure success in growing roses, you need to purchase high-quality planting material. It is better to choose plants whose root system will be closed. When planting such a seedling, the soil around the root must be preserved.
It is best to choose rose seedlings with a closed root system: they take root more easily at the planting site and are less susceptible to illness.
Often in modern supermarkets you can see imported roses with a closed root system, which are sold in advance. Several seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf at a temperature of 0 to +5°C. During storage, you will have to regularly monitor the condition of the substrate around the rhizome. It should not dry out completely, but too much moisture is also harmful for it.
Advice! A solution of root or heteroauxin promotes root growth, so you can water the seedlings with it several times.
When should you plant roses?
Most roses are recommended for autumn planting. The preferred period of work begins in mid-September and ends in mid-October. An earlier planting time is undesirable due to the fact that the rose can produce fresh shoots in the warmth, which will not have time to grow stronger and will freeze in winter. Late boarding is also dangerous, because the plant must take root before frost.
Most roses are planted in the fall. This is also convenient because when purchasing planting material at the market, you can see the flower itself
Planting flowers in May. Useful tips for gardeners and the May planting calendar:
Determining a landing site
The place for planting roses should be sunny. In the shade, roses can get bored, they stop flowering, dark spots appear on the leaves of plants, and blind shoots form. The plant may infect powdery mildew. Choose an area that is ventilated but has protection from strong northern winds.
Roses decorate the garden, regardless of their location, but the plants themselves need conditions for successful growth and flowering
Roses have no special preferences in terms of soil. They are not as capricious as they might seem. Any soil is suitable for them, except heavy clay and light sandy loam. The planting site should not be located where groundwater comes close to the surface of the earth.
Rose planting process
Planting holes need to be dug so deep and wide that there is room for the plant’s roots. If the soil is fertile, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be sufficient. For clay soil with the same width of the hole, you need to dig 60-70 cm deep.
It is necessary to prepare a nutrient mixture for filling into the hole. It contains humus or compost, rotted manure and soil. Fertilizers should not come into contact with the roots of the plant, so sprinkle them with a layer of soil.
The soil or substrate that covers the roots of the plant must be preserved: the rose quickly adapts to new living conditions
Before planting the seedling, you need to pour water into the hole so that it is absorbed. If the root system of a rose is closed, there is no need to free the root from the ground. If the root is free, it needs to be cut to a third of its length and soaked in plain water or a root growth stimulator for two hours.
Shoots should also be pruned:
- for polyanthus and hybrid tea roses so that 2-3 buds remain on each shoot;
- For floribunda roses, leave 3-4 buds;
- at park roses shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm;
- Only root sections are trimmed (renewed, not shortened).
The seedling should be covered with earth so that the grafting site is approximately 5 cm underground. Wax, if any, should be removed from the buried area. The soil should be compacted and watered again. In this way, air that could remain around the roots is removed, and the closest contact between the plant and the soil is achieved. You can hill up the seedling by about 10-15 cm. The resulting hill should be removed after two weeks - the time during which the seedling should take root.
Reproduction of the Queen of the Garden
There are not many ways to propagate roses. But the desire to have as many of these undeniably beautiful and diverse plants on the site as possible is so great that gardeners strive to master them all to the maximum extent. Here is a list of ways to propagate roses:
- Budding. A T-shaped cut is made on the bark of the plant trunk close to the ground level, into which a bud of a cultivated variety is inserted, after which it is secured with film. The scion can use the developed root system of the rootstock. This operation is simple, but requires some experience.
- Seeds. This method is used extremely rarely due to the fact that you have to wait a long time for the result, and there is no confidence that it will be positive. And the germination of rose seeds leaves much to be desired.
- Layerings. Shrub and climbing roses are propagated this way because they have long and strong stems. The shoot of the plant in the lower part is cut for 8 cm, and a sliver or match is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in the ground and fixed, and its free tip is tied to a peg. The rooted shoot is cut off from the parent bush.
- Cuttings. The good thing about this method is that roses rooted this way will not produce wild shoots. The cutting is part of a strong shoot. It is cut off next to the leaf bud and germinated using root formation stimulants. After the root appears, the rose can be planted in the ground.
The layering method is good to use only for propagating plants with long stems, which are used to create a new rose bush
Rules for caring for a garden rose
In order for a rose to bloom and delight its owners for many years, you should pay attention to it, do not forget to feed it and protect it from viral diseases. Don't be afraid of difficulties: growing in a garden is not as difficult as it seems.
Plant nutrition
Manure is a natural fertilizer and, of course, preference should be given to it. Horse manure that is at least six months old is considered the best. Chicken and pig manure, especially when fresh, can seriously harm the plant: it is sour and can simply burn young shoots. Fresh manure also has a bad effect on the soil because it blocks nitrogen.
Manure is a natural fertilizer, and therefore the most acceptable. When choosing fertilizing, preference should be given to rotted horse manure or mullein
During the period of bud formation, you need to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate at the rate of 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water. During the period of active growth and development of the plant, it should be watered once every 10-15 days with herbal infusion, a solution of mineral fertilizers, chicken droppings or infused mullein. In order for fertilizing to be better accepted by the plant, it is better to apply the same mineral fertilizers in dissolved form and after the next watering. When the first half of summer is already over, that is, in the second part of July, feeding the rose stops. The plant begins to prepare for winter.
Plants can also survive stress. It is in this state that they remain during periods of extreme heat, cold or prolonged rain. To make roses more easily overcome difficult times in their lives, you need to spray them with zircon, epin, ecosil or sodium humate. Overfed roses produce abundant greenery, but bloom very sparingly.
The procedure for watering the plant
Roses should be watered no more than once a week. If the summer is hot, then the frequency of watering can be doubled. Watering norm is a bucket of warm water for each bush. It is necessary to pour water at the root, being careful not to get on the foliage. Water must penetrate the soil to a depth of at least 20-30cm. If you water roses shallowly, shallow roots may form that are easily damaged.
A rose in dew is a magnificent sight, but nature decreed that the dew disappears with the first rays of the sun, otherwise its drops, like magnifying glasses, would enhance the energy of the sun and burn the petals: you need to water roses at the root
If there is no one to water the roses during long term(more than a week), the soil at the base of the plant should be covered with humus, mown grass or tree bark. This measure will not only retain moisture at the roots, but will also prevent the growth of weeds.
If there is a lack of moisture, the flowers of the plant may become small, but you should not overwater the roses: this can lead to a reduction in the supply of oxygen to the roots. As a result, the plant's leaves will turn yellow. To prevent this from happening, do not forget to loosen the soil after watering.
Certainly, proper feeding and watering are important, but the process of caring for a garden rose is not limited to this. One of the most unpleasant diseases for garden roses is powdery mildew. They will help you take care of your plant’s health in advance. preventive measures. The rose must be sprayed directly over the leaves with a solution of ordinary baking soda at the rate of 40 grams of soda per liter of water. This must be done 2-3 times a week in the spring, as well as at the beginning of summer.
Plants, like all living things on earth, can get sick. These are not random stains or traces of fertilizers. This is powdery mildew, which is easier to prevent than to treat.
Aphids are a big nuisance for roses. But you can overcome it. To do this, boil a bucket of water, put a piece of grated laundry soap and a couple of wormwood branches into it, then cook for 10-15 minutes. The cooled and strained solution is sprayed onto the roses. After a week, the procedure should be repeated. If the aphid stubbornly refuses to leave the plant, you will have to use a systemic poison, for example, Aktara.
Aphids will not appear on roses at all if you plant lavender or nasturtium under them. And calendula and marigolds will help get rid of beetles. By the way, onions and garlic will add health to roses, just like people. In their environment, plants become more fragrant and suffer less.
Spots on the leaves, cracks on the stems and cessation of bud development indicate a disease. Affected branches should be removed. Prepare an infusion of horsetail, wormwood and nettle, with which you spray the rose.
A few words about pruning roses
Shoots of the plant growing inward should be trimmed. This stimulates the emergence of young shoots and active flowering. Fading flowers need to be removed, then the plant will use the saved energy for a new wave of flowering, which will be more abundant.
Just look how beautiful it is! But all this splendor can be grown with your own hands. If someone can do it, it will definitely work for you too.
There are many pruning rules and this topic is undoubtedly worth being devoted to.
Later, new, stronger shoots will appear. If weak shoots appear in the fall, they are not pruned, as the plant will weaken and new branches will not have time to ripen before the cold weather.
The rose is susceptible to various diseases and attacks. They fight with chemicals. Folk remedies in the form of soap-oil emulsion are also used. To prepare it, use washing powder, diesel fuel or machine oil (5-6 spoons each), which are mixed in one liter of hot water. This mixture is diluted with ten liters of cold water and sprayed on the plants, which is carried out in the evening in calm weather.
Aphids, ticks and thrips are effectively destroyed by garlic or onion tincture.
Rose bushes are often affected. An aqueous solution of soda ash and laundry soap is prepared against this infection. For prevention, dry leaves should be removed and burned in the fall.
The most common diseases and pests of roses:
- powdery mildew
- red spider mite
- leaf bee
- caterpillars, snails and slugs
- bacterial cancer
- gray rot
- leaf spot
- viral diseases
- foam bib ("cuckoo's saliva")
When propagating roses, vegetative and generative (seed) methods are used. Vegetative methods include: dividing the bush, cuttings, propagation by children, branching and grafting.
Growing from seeds:
- This method is used to breed new varieties and hybrids and is practiced exclusively for wild roses.
- Seeds are collected from reddened seed pods in late summer. They need to be cleaned and placed in damp sand for four months.
- With the arrival of spring, the seeds are soaked in a root former solution for several hours.
- Sow seeds to a depth of 1-3 cm. Soil on top.
- After 2-3 leaves grow, it should be thinned out, leaving an interval between plants of about 10 cm, and between rows up to 20 cm.
In summer they add mineral fertilizing. Aftercare is standard. At the end of summer, the grown seedlings are used as rootstock.
Cuttings:
- For rooting, lignified and semi-lignified cuttings are used. Planting material is collected during flowering.
- The length must be at least 8 centimeters and the upper cut is made 5 mm above the kidney, and the lower cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees.
- All thorns and leaves are removed from the cutting, leaving only the top two, which are shortened in half.
- The lower cut is treated with phytohormone before rooting.
- The cuttings are planted at intervals of 20-30 cm in a shaded place in a trench with sand, which is compacted around the cutting, watered and covered with polyethylene.
The film is periodically removed to ensure oxygen access to the plants. Subsequent care consists of watering and removing weeds and loosening. The emerging buds are removed, and for the winter the cuttings are covered with two-layer insulation and film. In the spring, the insulation is removed, and the film cover is left. The film is periodically opened slightly to harden the plant. So roses are grown for 2 years, and on the third year they are transplanted into a rose garden.
Vaccination - rules:
- Clear the root collars from the soil and remove the lateral shoots.
- Make a T-shaped cut on the neck and carefully push the edges of the bark apart.
- Select the desired cutting, remove the foliage and top part from it.
- Cut off the peephole along with the wood (the movement should be directed from bottom to top) and remove excess bark.
- The cut eye needs to be inserted into the cut and secured with a tight bandage, and wrapped with film on top.
- After three weeks, the kidney is checked for survival - it should be swollen, but not blackened.
- For the winter, the plant is hilled up. And in the spring, the rootstock is cut 1 cm above the scion.
- The regrown sprout is pinched.
- In autumn the plant can be grown.
There are about 40 species and 300 varieties of roses. Garden roses combine polyantha and floribunda. They are characterized by bouquet flowering, formed from several inflorescences. Polyantha roses have small flowers, while floribunda (a hybrid of polyanthus and hybrid tea) have large ones. Garden roses are distinguished by a variety of shades and the degree of terryness of the inflorescences. Plant height reaches 80 cm.
The most common varieties of garden roses include:
- Stuttgardia or Cordes 2012 - Is immune to foliage. It has an erect, branched bush. It blooms profusely and for a long time with double rich yellow flowers that do not fade from the sun.
- Westzeit or Noack 2004 - has an unusual color of semi-double flowers in orange, apricot and pink shades. It has a light aroma. The height of the bush reaches 70 cm.
- Erfordia or Matthews 2002 - dark red double flowers with long flowering until frost. Reaches a height of 1.3 meters.
- Sinea - has burgundy color inflorescences. Young shoots with a red tint. After flowering, fruits similar to rose hips are formed. Resistant to diseases.
- Hermann-Hesse-Rose - large flowers, glossy foliage. Not afraid unfavorable conditions environment. The colors are whitish with cream or pinkish hues.
- Marie Curie - has semi-double flowers of yellow and brown shades. Can be grown in containers. Reaches a height of 60 cm.
There are many options for creating a beautiful rose garden. For example:
- East style. To create a rosary in oriental style It is enough to equip a small pool in the middle with a jug from which water flows. Dark red and crimson varieties are suitable for such a rose garden. Of the climbing roses, it is better to select light and white varieties.
- Romantic style. It is small in size and cozy layout. Suitable roses of ancient fragrant varieties with unusual shape inflorescences and delicate colors: white, pink, light shades of red. The contour of such a rose garden is well emphasized by climbing varieties of cream, pale yellow and pale pink colors.
Pink compositions are elegantly combined with various flowering plants. The main thing is to combine color and contrast. Group plantings of the same tone and similar shades look beautiful.
More information can be found in the video:
