The article analyzes methods for laying linoleum with practical advice. You will learn about the most popular misconceptions and errors regarding the flooring process, about the differences in laying linoleum using the “dry” and glue method. The price table will give information about availability different types glue.

Linoleum has been the undisputed leader in flooring for the last forty years. Apartment floors and country houses, hospital corridors and school classrooms are lined with this material. It is believed that anyone can lay linoleum on their own, since there is nothing complicated about it. We will examine whether this is so in our article.

Stereotype No. 1. Linoleum can be laid anywhere and everywhere

Sheet PVC material - linoleum, relin, marmoleum - has become a “magic wand” that they are trying to use in all cases.

Reality. The material is demanding on the quality of the base. An unforgivable mistake would be laying it on a dirty surface or an unreliable base that will flake or crumble. The material will respond to such negligence with coating defects within a year.

What should I do? If the base is defective, for example, a floor with old paint, “dusty” or low-quality screed, and there is no way to level it, it is better to abandon linoleum in favor of laminate. Laminated fiberboard panels themselves serve as a leveling layer and “swallow” minor defects in the base.

Stereotype No. 2. Laying linoleum is fast

People even have a sort of “term” for this process: “throw linoleum.” Mentally, the procedure is simple - roll out, trim and press with a plinth.

Reality.“Quick installation” and urgent installation of skirting boards are the culprits in 80% of cases of bubbles, waves and wrinkles appearing on the coating.

What should I do? If you are dealing with a hasty craftsman who is trying to sell you his work, it is unlikely that you will learn from him that the linoleum must be aged. This means that after laying and cutting it to size you need to wait 5-7 days. During this time, the PVC will take its stable shape and react to humidity and temperature changes. Only after this the material will not change its linear dimensions and it can be fixed with a plinth and furniture can be placed.

Stereotype No. 3. “Dry” installation without glue - significant savings time and money

It is logical that you have to spend time and effort on gluing the material. But is it really that significant?

Reality. The process of applying and dispersing the glue is quite simple and you can master it by reading the instructions. After a few square meters you will find that it is not that difficult or heavy. The main advantage of adhesive flooring is that you don’t have to wait for the linoleum to rest.

What should I do? If you have the opportunity to stick linoleum on it, stick it on! Laying through glue strengthens the coating material and makes the entire cake much more resistant to mechanical damage. The most difficult thing here will be the rolling process - you will need a special device in the form of a board wrapped in rags.

Stereotype No. 4. Linoleum laid without glue is easy to replace

You often hear: “I’ll get tired of it and take it off, throw it away, and put in a new one.”

Reality. Floor repairs are done once every 10-15 years, and practice has shown that replacing the coating has nothing to do with the mood or momentary desire of the owner. The result is a situation where the customer has had an inferior coating all these years, which also wears out faster.

What to do? See Stereotype No. 3. In fact, after the stated service life of the adhesive (15-20 years), the glued linoleum is not so difficult to remove. Another thing is that you will have to clean the base for the new material. The craftsmen have special machines in their arsenal that clean linoleum - you can resort to their services.

Stereotype No. 5. Linoleum can be laid on a cement-sand screed

Reality. Yes, you can, only using a leveling mixture - it does not leave pores. And if you apply glue, it will stick well. But from a practical point of view, this is justified only if heating is provided by a “warm floor” system. In other cases, the screed is unpredictable. Because concrete and mortar do not hold heat well, the floor will cool uncontrollably, requiring additional carpeting.

What to do? Ideally, create an additional base layer by securing sheets of plywood or OSB. These are significant expenses, but long term they pay off. The floor will not be cold, even if it is an external vestibule.

At this stage a mistake is often made. Fiberboard with a thickness of 3-4 mm is sometimes laid “dry” on top of the screed in order to make the surface smooth and even. And then they glue the linoleum to the fiberboard. This is the most undesirable combination of actions, because with changes in humidity, which will undoubtedly follow in the off-season, the fiberboard will be deformed along with the linoleum.

How to inexpensively prepare a base for linoleum

As you know, the cheapest layer material for leveling is fiberboard. Price per 1 sq. m - from 1.5 to 2 cu. e. It can be effectively applied in two ways. Each of them provides preparatory stages- removing dust, priming the base with glue and filling the seams with silicone sealant.

Method 1. By screed

Progress:

Glue the sheets onto the screed. Leave for 12 hours.
Glue linoleum onto sheets. Leave for 12 hours.

This way you will not only level, but also insulate the floor. For installation of fiberboard Regular construction adhesive will work on the floor. It is also suitable for flooring, but there are also special adhesives for this work. Consumption - about 0.5 kg per 1 sq. m with a thickness of 1 mm in one layer.

Method 2. On a wooden base

If the base has minor defects - holes, cavities, chips - you can save effort and use fiberboard as a wooden screed.

Progress:

Remove bumps and steps from the old solid base. Fill the cracks with sealant.
Cut the sheets with the smooth part up across the area of the room with a gap of 5 mm. Spread and leave for 12-24 hours.
Apply glue liberally to each sheet separately and place it in the designed position. Then nail 1x10 small (“shoe”) nails from the center of the sheet, gradually pressing, fixing the sheet and dispersing excess glue. After installation, leave for 12 hours.
Fill the seams with sealant.
Cut the linoleum and stick it according to the instructions from the video.

Video - how to glue linoleum

Both methods are suitable not only for any type of PVC coating, but also for piece materials - laminate, parquet board, slab marmoleum, etc.

Table. Prices for construction adhesive for linoleum

Name	Manufacturer	Release form	Unit price, cu. e.	Price 1 kg, cu. e.
Homakoll 248	Russia	Bucket 10 kg	60	6
Homakoll 248	Russia	Bucket 14 kg	70	5
Kiilto UKI	Finland	Bucket 3 kg	21	7
Ceresit Thomsit K 112 (conductive)	Germany	Bucket 12 kg	90	7,5
KS	Russia	Bucket 18 kg	130	7,2
"Hercules"	Russia	Bucket 7 kg	60	8,7
Kiilto PLUS Adhesive for linoleum and carpet	Finland	Bucket 15 kg	75	5
Kiilto PLUS Adhesive for linoleum and carpet	Finland	Bucket 18 kg	85	4,7
PUFAS Bodenkleber 525	Germany	Bucket 7 kg	21	3

If we talk about the price of linoleum itself, then its range is great. The price always depends on two parameters - quality and order volume. For example, IVC Greenline Berlin 506 linoleum 4 mm thick on a felt base retails for 12 USD. e. for 1 sq. m. If you decide to purchase this linoleum in bulk - from 100 sq. m - it will cost you about 10 USD. e. for 1 sq. m. Savings on flooring - almost 20%. You can also save on other materials by purchasing them in bulk. This became possible thanks to the market economy and competition among suppliers.

The two pillars on which all home renovation problems “rest” are the desire for unhealthy savings and philistine misconceptions. Remember that timely consultation with a professional will save your budget and nerves, and whether it’s worth saving extra money is up to you to decide.

Linoleum is the most unpretentious, undemanding and cheap option floor covering. Moreover, it can be laid in rooms with high humidity levels, for example, in the kitchen. This is very often decisive when choosing it. And after the acquisition there are very important questions: is it worth gluing linoleum to the base and how to glue the linoleum so that it forms a single sheet? In this article, we will find out in what cases it is necessary to glue linoleum to the floor and how to do it, and we will also figure out how to make the joints invisible.

“Cold welding” for gluing linoleum - and the joint is almost invisible

Why is it necessary to glue linoleum

When laying linoleum, you want it to look like a whole monolithic layer on the floor, and there are no visible joints. Today, it is not difficult to purchase foreign-made material, which is produced in rolls up to 4 m wide. This size will be quite enough so that in domestically built premises it will occupy the entire area. In this case, there is no need to glue the joints: you can choose linoleum exactly to the size of the room.

Domestic manufacturers produce linoleum 1.5 m wide. When purchasing it, you cannot do without carefully adjusting the canvases and gluing the joints.

Gluing linoleum to the base will create a more durable monolithic coating

Of course, you can lay linoleum without gluing it to the base. But the so-called loosely laid linoleum has a number of disadvantages.

Firstly, during use, potholes and swelling from the legs of the chairs will appear.

Secondly, when moving furniture, a wave will “go”, the linoleum will swell, and it will be difficult to straighten it without removing all the heavy furniture from the room.

Thirdly, the distance between the joints of the canvases may increase over time, they will “spread apart”.

Fourthly, un-glued linoleum is easier to damage with a sharp cutting object.

Gluing linoleum to the base will avoid these problems and create a monolithic coating. Even if you purchased a canvas that is wide enough to cover the entire room, you should still use glue. This will extend the life of the flooring by 40-50%.

There are several types of linoleum glue, different in composition and purpose. When choosing which glue to glue linoleum with, it is necessary to take into account the type and material of linoleum.

Dispersion adhesives

Dispersion adhesive is used for gluing linoleum to the base

Dispersion adhesives are aqueous suspensions and solutions of acrylic or carboxymethylcellulose with various additives. Such adhesives are non-toxic and practically odorless. Disadvantages include susceptibility to moisture and low temperatures. For example, dispersion adhesive that is frozen during transportation or storage loses its properties.

Acrylate glue used for laying heterogeneous and homogeneous linoleum in rooms with moderate and high traffic.

Bustilat used for gluing linoleums with a felt base. It contains carboxymethylcellulose, latex and chalk.

Gumilax Suitable for laying natural linoleum. It is based on latex and rubber.

Conductive glue used in rooms with a lot of electronic equipment. In this case, it is necessary to lay an antistatic coating.

Bitumen mastics fix linoleum on a fabric base.

Dispersion adhesives are used for gluing linoleum to the base. To do this, apply a layer of 0.5-0.6 mm thick to the floor using a notched trowel, after which the coating sheets are laid. Depending on the type, the consumption of linoleum glue ranges from 200 g/m2 to 500 g/m2. The exact quantity will be indicated on the package.

Adhesive for cold welding of linoleum

The second name of this type of adhesive is reactionary. It is dictated by the properties of the glue itself. He enters chemical reaction with the base of linoleum, practically melts it, turning the joints into a strong, rigid intermediate strip. This effect is also called diffusion: the glue connects the linoleum sheets together, dissolving their edges into each other.

Reaction adhesive is ideal when used to install commercial linoleum.

This glue is a complex chemical compound based on polyurethane and epoxy resin. It has a very pungent odor and is also explosive and flammable.

Reaction adhesive is called "cold weld" because it is used as an adhesive for linoleum joints. Gluing two canvases together is very similar to “welding”.

There are several types of glue, each of which is used for laying linoleum of a certain type and age and at different stages of work.

Cold welding A-type adhesive is used for gluing joints of new linoleum

It has the most liquid consistency of all. Can only be used for gluing joints of new, just laid linoleum. To do this, the canvases are tightly glued to the base, the pattern is combined and the joint is coated with type-A cold welding. As a result, the seam will be transparent and durable; it can only be detected by touch. By the way, linoleum should be commercial or household, but hard.

“C-type Cold Welding” adhesive is used for gluing joints with large gaps

It has a thick consistency. Used for gluing “loose” joints of old linoleum. As a rule, the distance between the old linoleum sheets is quite large. This glue not only glues the joints together, but also creates, as it were, a strip of linoleum between them. C-type cold welding is used for gluing gaps 3-4 mm wide.

T-type cold welding

Used for gluing PVC linoleum to a polyester base.

First of all, it should be noted that when using joint adhesive, be sure to wear gloves on your hands. It’s better to also protect your respiratory tract, since the glue has a strong odor and is very toxic.

Important! It is undesirable to allow glue to get on the surface of the linoleum. It will not be possible to completely remove the blot. Even if you follow the advice of experts, wait until the glue dries and pick it off with a sharp knife, a noticeable mark will still remain on the surface. To prevent this from happening, it is convenient to use a rag or rags. When opening, carrying, or using a tube of glue, always hold it over a rag, in which case drops of glue will fall on it. Then the rag must be immediately thrown away in a place where it cannot stick to the linoleum.

Cold welding technology is quite simple:

We clean the gap that we will glue from dust and moisture.
Place single-sided tape along the entire length of the joints.

Apply tape to the joints and cut along the gap

Before applying the glue, carefully cut the tape at the joint.
Squeeze glue from the tube into the gap.

We squeeze A-type cold welding into the gap between the linoleum sheets

After 10-20 minutes, the tape can be removed.
After an hour you can walk on the floor.

Important! The shorter the seam, the stronger and more invisible the connection. Taking into account the fact that it is practically impossible to make the floor perfectly flat, there is always the possibility of differences in heights and bulges on the floor. If you glue linoleum along its entire length at once, at the site of the defect it will begin to bristle and bulge. This can be prevented by gluing the joints in 50-70 cm sections, each time waiting for the glue to dry. In this case, the seam will be smooth and invisible.

Glued linoleum will last much longer than loosely laid linoleum and will not budge or bulge. And joints glued with cold welding will simply be invisible. Try to follow the technology and follow the instructions on the glue package.

Modern assortment finishing materials for the floor can surprise any sophisticated consumer. It is constantly updated with new products that amaze the imagination. However, time-tested linoleum still finds its fans today. It has many advantages, which is what attracts attention. Before purchasing it, you should familiarize yourself with its features and, if necessary, decide whether this coating can be laid on an old, similar one.

Is it possible to lay linoleum over old

If you are thinking about how to glue linoleum to linoleum, then you must have decided for yourself the issue of removing the old coating. Laying new material does not require the creation of a substrate; if you lay the coating in two layers, the floor will be warmer. However, experts still recommend removing the previous layer, only then will you eliminate problems that may arise during operation.

When people decide how to glue linoleum to the floor, they think that they will be able to assess the condition rough coating after removing old materials. This belief is true. The condition of the screed must be checked and repaired if such a need arises. When using flooring material, dirt and dust will certainly accumulate underneath it, and mold and mildew may also occur. If you are deciding how to glue linoleum to the floor, getting rid of the old coating, then this will eliminate the troubles described above, as well as protect new material. Among other things, this approach makes the atmosphere in the house safer and healthier.

If the old coating has holes, swellings and cracks, and all sorts of irregularities, then the new linoleum will quickly become unusable. Although it cannot be called the most demanding material, it still needs clean and Smooth surface. This approach allows you to evenly distribute the load, eliminating possible damage to the coating from the inside.

If you are faced with the question of how to glue linoleum to linoleum, then you must remember that this approach will not only make the floor warmer, but also softer. However, in in this case one should not always expect a positive result, since furniture legs will certainly begin to push through the surface. As practice shows, the material can be glued to a clean base with better quality. How to properly glue linoleum will be described below. But if you decide that the removal of the old layer will not be carried out, then you should consider all the pros and cons, only then can you begin laying a new topcoat on old material. However, this should not be done if the previous layer was severely damaged and covered with waves. This may cause the new coating to repeat these changes and begin to tear.

Method of laying a new coating on an old one

If, thinking about how to glue linoleum to linoleum, you still decide to use this technique, then the advantage of the technology is that you will not raise old dirt and dust. In this case, you can use the old layer as an additional substrate. However, questions arise here about what to use for gluing, whether it is possible to use adhesives at all, or whether it is best to prefer other methods of fixation. If you nevertheless decide to use a non-recommended technology in a room with an area of more than 20 m2, then we recommend considering the FORBO 525 EUROSTAR BASIC universal adhesive. It is produced using a solvent, has increased adhesive properties and is easy to apply using a notched trowel.

Some people believe that fixing new linoleum with furniture and skirting boards is not enough, but you can use the option double sided tape. special purpose will allow you to glue the material between the layers. But when using glue, it is best to let the composition dry for several days; this will take about 4 days.

Alternative options for laying old coating on new

If you are still thinking about the question of how to glue linoleum to linoleum, you can also use the lime composition “Bustilat”. PVC glue for fleecy substrates is also suitable, which is applied using a notched trowel. If you were unable to lay one piece of material over the entire area of the room, then you need to fasten the sheets with transparent

For reference

When deciding to use adhesive, you need to consider the prospects for when you have to replace the floor covering again. In this case, you will spend a lot of money to dismantle the glued pie. If you still don’t want to remove the old layer, then you can do without glue, and on an area of 20 m2 this solution will be the most suitable. For larger areas, you can use pressure skirting boards. With the help of objects you can fix roll material.

on a clean floor

Many home craftsmen have repeatedly thought about replacing the floor covering, what is best to do in this case and how. Should I glue the linoleum or just lay it down, pressing it down with baseboards? If a decision is made in favor of the first option, then a reactive adhesive composition can be used for this. They are a complex chemical compound that is created on the basis epoxy resin and polyurethane. Once the adhesive reacts with the coating, firmly bonding it to the surface, a rigid intermediate layer is obtained that is durable, mechanically resistant and water resistant.

If you are faced with the question of how to glue linoleum to concrete floor, then can be used reaction composition, which is excellent for fabric-based material. Such mixtures are simply irreplaceable for commercial linoleum flooring that will be used in industrial premises.

Work methodology

Reaction adhesive will help lay commercial or bond it at the joints. However, the material must be cut taking into account the alignment of the pattern. As a result, you will be able to obtain an almost imperceptible transparent seam, which will only be detectable by touch.

The composition is applied along the edge with a deviation from it. Afterwards the canvases are laid, rolled with a roller, and then you can begin installing the second half of the canvas. If you are thinking about what you can use to glue linoleum, then as a alternative solution A two-component polyurethane composition is also used, with which you can obtain a rigid and durable bond. Sometimes a water-dispersed composition is used, which is odorless and environmentally friendly.

How to remove linoleum

If you are faced with the task of how to remove glued linoleum, then you can use a technique that involves using mechanical method. The coating should be moistened with a warm soapy solution, which will allow you to quickly get rid of the adhesive layer.

May 31, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Regular readers already know that I specialize in apartment renovation and construction of private houses. Therefore, I know first-hand how to glue wallpaper, lay tiles and lay linoleum. However, such a process as laying commercial linoleum is not new to me. Just yesterday I finished leading this process.

The fact is that my youngest daughter studies at high school. And, accordingly, from time to time we have to provide them with some kind of patronage assistance in the form of services for minor and sometimes major repairs.

This is what happened this time too. The school purchased with fund money commercial linoleum 3mm width. However, its price was somewhat high, so there was no longer enough money for installation. So I had to take on everything with my own hands, enlisting other parents to help me.

Material selection

Despite the fact that in my case the installation material had already been purchased, I will devote a few lines to choosing such a floor covering.

I think everyone has encountered linoleum, so let’s dwell on it operational properties And appearance I won't. It’s better to tell you more about specifications, which are slightly different.

More detailed information is presented in the table.

Important features of commercial polymer flooring are its fire-fighting properties and the ability to withstand heavy mechanical loads and the ingress of aggressive chemicals.

Naturally, the linoleum that we bought for school fully complied with the requirements of the ISO 9001 and ISO 14001 standards.

Regarding the minuses, I can only say that commercial flooring is not very big choice colors and patterns. And, of course, a considerable cost, which, however, is quite consistent with the quality.

Features of laying commercial pavement

Since the material itself differs from household flooring, the technology for laying commercial linoleum also has its own peculiarities.

First of all, this is the width of the material. We had linoleum 2 meters wide (the maximum is 4), so it was impossible to lay it without. Of course, unless you bought commercial linoleum for the kitchen, balcony, pantry or other similar room.

In addition, in my practice I have used two methods of covering:

With a bend on the wall(it turns out to be a kind of plinth). This method is precisely used in public institutions, which include the school. Installing linoleum with a bend allows you to avoid installing skirting boards (and, accordingly, additional expenses).
Without bend. In this case, the flooring is cut close to the walls or existing baseboards (for example, if you do not want to dismantle them).

In any case, a gap of 5-10 mm wide must be left between the linoleum and the wall to compensate thermal expansion material.

An expansion joint is necessary to ensure that waves and bubbles do not form on the flooring during use. Polyvinyl chloride, which is part of linoleum, expands greatly during heating, which should be taken into account during installation.

One more point I want to draw your attention to. Unlike household linoleum, commercial linoleum has increased fragility (which, however, does not affect its strength after installation). Therefore, care should be taken during installation, and during transportation, do not roll the material into rolls that are too tight.

As for styling technologies, there are no innovations here.

There are three main ways:

floating (dry);
on double-sided adhesive tape;
for adhesive for commercial linoleum.

As you understand, the first two installation methods can only be used in small rooms(more often at home in the kitchen or balcony). At school, of course, I used glue, which I advise you to do.

Well, the last feature is the processing of seams. To avoid ruptures, they must be firmly glued to the base or welded. In the latter case, a special soldering iron and a polymer cord are used.

Floor preparation

You understand that without preparing the base it will not be possible to properly lay linoleum. And by spending a few hours on preparation, you will not only improve the quality of installation, but also significantly reduce work time.

So, so that you don’t have to blush in front of other parents later by incorrectly laying commercial linoleum, I recommend adhering to the following recommendations:

During operation there must be constant temperature and humidity. Sudden cooling and heating of the coating should not be allowed until the gluing work is completed.
Before laying linoleum, you need to carefully level the floor surface. Protruding mounds need to be cut off with a grinder, and the recesses should be sealed cement mortar and putty.

To level the subfloor, you can use special mortars, but they cost money.
So it's up to you to decide. Although the result is, in principle, worth it.

Since it is better to glue linoleum, you need to take care to improve the adhesive properties of the floor. Penetrating soil will help to do this. Thanks to this, you will also reduce glue consumption during work.
You also need to additionally make sure that there is no dust, dirt, debris or grease stains on the surface.

If the room where you want to lay linoleum has wooden floors, before laying it you need to lay sheets of plywood, chipboard or OSB on the boards. Then decorative coating will lie flat and without much effort on your part.

Before starting work, you need to check that the linoleum has already been in the room for at least a day. During this time, its humidity and temperature will become equal to the humidity and temperature of the air in the room. You just need to make sure that the roll stands vertically and does not lie on the floor.

After a day, the linoleum needs to be rolled out around the classroom (or wherever you lay it) so that a piece of the covering is located on the walls. It must be left to rest to avoid deformation when gluing.

Laying technology

Well, finally, I’ll tell you how my styling happened. Naturally, if you use my instructions, adapt them to the conditions that you are faced with. I will try to present everything in as much detail as possible.

Stage 1 - Gluing the first sheet

The most important thing is to glue the first strip (like in wallpaper). Let's start work.

Considering that the linoleum had been laid out and sat for a long time, I immediately began to adjust it to the size of the room. In the future, we will install along the walls, so I placed the strip and cut the edges so as not to run onto vertical surfaces.

Having cut everything necessary, I unscrewed two-thirds of the roll from the wall and applied adhesive to the floor. For distribution, I did not have a brush, but a wide spatula with teeth. So acrylic glue smears better.

When using glue, avoid the appearance of puddles and lumps.
Otherwise, all this may freeze, and then bumps will appear on the linoleum.

For reference, I will give the glue consumption depending on the surface:

adsorbent (for example, concrete that absorbs liquid) - you need a liter of composition for about 4 square meters gender;
treated with primer - a liter is enough for 6 square meters.

By the way, depending on whether you treated the floor surface with a primer, the method of gluing linoleum depends:

For absorbent surfaces, you need to immediately apply the linoleum onto the glue that has not yet dried.
For all other cases, linoleum should be laid after the adhesive has set a little.

Having glued one half, we do the same with the other. That is, we roll up the covering and apply glue to the floor. In this case, near the future seam you need to leave an untreated area 10 cm wide.

Having unrolled the entire roll, I leveled the entire linoleum, expelling the accumulated air from the middle to the edges (again, as with wallpaper). As a tool I used a piece of plywood that I found in the utility room. Specialists have a special roller weighing about 50 kg, but I didn’t have such a tool with me.

I can offer several more alignment options that I once used in my practice:

walking on linoleum in shoes with soft soles (I walked in felt boots);
put wide boards on the surface and walk on them too.

I'm done with this, I'll tell you how to glue the following canvases.

Stage 2 - Gluing the remaining canvases

The peculiarity is that when placing the second roll of linoleum, you need to overlap the previous one (this is no longer like with wallpaper that is glued end-to-end). It is important to choose the width of this overlap so that after cutting off the excess, the pattern on adjacent rolls fits together.

I made an overlap of 2 cm, since the linoleum was plain and without a pattern.

laid out the roll;
checked the joints;
folded half of the linoleum (the fold is made along the canvas from the side adjacent to the first piece);
coated the base with glue, leaving a dry place 10 cm wide near the joint;
unfolded the canvas and leveled it on the glue;
repeated this operation for the second half of the roll

I glued the third roll in the same way. Only in the end, as you understand, I had to trim the linoleum at the opposite wall of the classroom.

Gluing and processing of seams is carried out only after several days, when the linoleum has given its final shrinkage.

Having finished gluing all the rolls, I checked everything for air bubbles. I found such defects in several places. No problem: I took a thin awl, pierced the bubble, released the accumulated air and smoothed everything out.

A mallet helps to detect air bubbles. You take it and tap the entire surface of the linoleum. If you hear a characteristic dull sound, it means that air has accumulated under the linoleum and needs to be expelled from there.

Stage 3 - Making seams

As I already mentioned, you need to return to processing seams after at least 48 hours. You need to cut the joints together and weld them so that the flooring will serve your children for a long time.

I did the cutting and gluing of the seams like this:

As a tool I used a flat metal corner and a special sharp knife for cutting linoleum. Although you can take any knife, even a stationery one with replaceable blades.
I placed a homemade ruler on the joint where there was an overlap and immediately cut through two rolls of linoleum to the very base. If the linoleum is thick and it was not possible to cut through two layers, you need to remove the first and cut the second exactly along the mark left by the tip of the knife.
Having finished cutting, I folded back the edges of the linoleum and coated the surface of the subfloor underneath.
After that, I returned the pieces of linoleum and glued them end to end. A little glue always appears on top; it must be removed immediately with a rag so as not to be washed off the floor covering later.

Some perform seam welding. For this purpose it is used special tool with plastic cord. As an option - " cold welding"in tubes. But I succeeded without any additional tricks.

Stage 4 - Installation of skirting boards

Since I was doing the work for my own daughter’s class, I decided to install baseboards rather than stick pieces of linoleum on the walls.

Here, whether at home or at school or other public premises, the work scheme does not change:

Bought plastic skirting boards(they look good with linoleum), as well as dowels and screws with which I was going to fasten them.
I leaned the skirting boards against the wall and drilled required amount holes.
I placed dowels in the recesses, attached skirting boards and tightened the screws. It’s good that you took a screwdriver with you, otherwise you would have been tired of turning them with a screwdriver.
Installed connecting plastics, corners and plugs. Then I inserted a decorative piece to mask the screw heads.

I would like to note this for those who are planning to lay linoleum on a wooden floor. In this case, between the baseboard and floor covering You need to leave a small gap to allow air circulation. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate below, which will sooner or later lead to mold.

Making a gap is easy. Before trying on the baseboard, place a piece of linoleum under it. Remove after installation. That's all.

By the way, they resort to the same technique to avoid deformation of the coating during thermal expansion. The gap will compensate for the change in size.

Conclusion

This is how I helped the school where my daughter studies. It turned out very well and judging by the way the teacher looked at me, this is not yet last time, when I am involved in repairs. By the way, if you are interested in other points regarding the renovation of premises, you can watch the video in this article.

May 31, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Modern building materials stores offer a variety of means by which the coating is securely fixed to the screed. It is important that the material, after fastening, does not wave, does not crack, and is easily dismantled during subsequent repairs. Next, let's look at how to glue linoleum to a concrete floor? When choosing a composition, you need to take into account the type of coating, the area of the room to be covered, and the expected load on the floor.

The covering is attached to concrete base different ways:

No glue required. The material is held only along the perimeter by the baseboard and the fixing strip near the door;
On tape. The decking is attached to double-sided adhesive tape designed for construction work. Laying on tape is quick. During the installation process, you can glue individual strips;
For mastic or adhesive. This method gives the most reliable results. Installation is labor-intensive, but allows you to forget about floor repairs for a long time.

When to glue linoleum

Before gluing linoleum to the floor, you should consider all the pros and cons. Attaching to the base makes sense if the material is spread for a long period of time. Short-term repairs involve installation without glue. When deciding on fixation, you need to consider the size of the room. IN spacious room It is not easy to secure the material without glue. In this case, the use of a binder is a reasonable solution.

Each type of coating is suitable for a specific binder composition. How to glue linoleum to the floor so that it sticks securely? When choosing a composition, you need to take into account the nature of the base, the type of surface, and the amount of further load on the floor. For fixation use:

Dispersion glue. The product does not have a strong odor and is suitable for coating on a fabric, heat-insulating basis;
Reaction composition. The adhesive is moisture-resistant, not afraid of sudden changes in temperature and difficult operating conditions;
Bitumen mastic. The product is suitable for coating on a woven base;
Synthetic adhesive containing artificial resin, rubber. The composition is well suited for material without a base.

Applying glue between joints

Fixing the material to the base is contraindicated if:

The area of the rooms does not exceed 20 square meters. The material is spread in one large piece and secured with a plinth;
The base is loose and unstable. Fixation to an unreliable screed is not recommended;
The floor was painted, but the paint was peeling off in some places. Glue should not be used due to a possible reaction between the glue and the old coating. The floor may become stained;
The basis is a screed, even a modern one;
The floor is shaky, not strong, there are creaking floorboards.

Bonding joints using special equipment

The coating is applied directly to the floor slabs after filling the joints with mortar and applying a leveling layer either to semi-dry or wet screed. How to seal linoleum at home? The choice of binder mixture depends on the coating. The material on a woven base, insulating substrate is fixed on the floor with dispersion compositions (Bustilat, Gumilax, ADM-K, etc.), bitumen mastic. Mixtures containing synthetic rubber and resins are used in the absence of a substrate.

Applying glue to concrete before laying linoleum

How to glue linoleum to a wooden floor

Wooden floorboards can serve as a good base for flooring. What glue should I use to glue linoleum in this case? PVA glue does an excellent job of fixing. Eco-friendly, safe composition It can be easily washed off with water in case of careless application. PVA is especially suitable for finishing floors in rooms with low traffic. Other options adhesive compositions, used for wooden base, - dispersion mixture and cold welding. Each of these compositions has its own characteristics and can be recommended depending on the type of coating.

It often happens that the fixed coating peels off from the floor after some time and requires repair. How to fix the defect? If swelling occurs, you can make a puncture in the fabric using a thin awl. The air is then released and the area is ironed with a hot iron through a thin sheet of white paper. The glue melts and re-bonds the surfaces.

Gluing joints together

How to glue linoleum together if the fabric comes apart at the joints? The separation of the seam indicates a violation of the cold welding technology. The resulting defect can be easily eliminated - the seam is cleaned and degreased with alcohol and gasoline. Then the coating is carefully folded back and an adhesive is applied underneath it. Next, the joints are fastened by cold welding.

Technology for laying linoleum on the floor (general rules)

To reliably glue linoleum and ensure a long service life of the material, you need:

Prepare a rough foundation in advance, use;
Let the purchased material “sit” in the room for 2-3 days, placing it vertically, then unfolding it;
Use large pieces, minimizing the number of joints;
Fasten the skirting boards at finishing only to the walls, which gives the coating the ability to change sizes with temperature changes;
Secure the edge of the flooring at the door with metal strips and self-tapping screws.

For installation at home, the following tools and materials are required:

Sharp knife;
Notched trowel;
A heavy roller or small roller for rolling the coating;
Tape measure or long ruler;
Double-sided tape or glue;
Skirting;
Metal strips;
Linoleum.

Glue is applied, linoleum is rolled out with a roller

If the floor needs to be prepared, self-leveling may be required. concrete mixture, cement composition For cosmetic repairs base, drill with an attachment for preparing a leveling solution. In some cases, to level the subfloor, you need a plywood sheet, an angle grinder with a sanding attachment, a nail puller, or a needle roller.

Before sealing the floor, you need to thoroughly prepare the rough surface. The coating is attached only to a flat, dry base. Existing defects appear after laying the material, especially under heavy load, and reduce its service life. The concrete floor is pre-primed, which gives good adhesion when fixing the coating. Step by step instructions what we did for you. A special compound is used to level the surface. After applying the mixture, the base must dry completely.

Lay plywood, the distance between nails is 10 cm.

The wooden floor is leveled with high-quality plywood with a thickness of 5 mm. If the flooring will be made on laminate or parquet, you need to make sure that the base is reliable and, if necessary, replace loose elements. The same goes for the tile base. Before laying, the floor should be cleared of traces of putty and other construction debris, and the surface should be cleaned with sandpaper.

Self-adhesive

The covering is fixed to the floor in the following order:

Applying glue. The composition is evenly distributed using a notched trowel, first on one side of the material, then on the other;
Accommodation. The material is laid on the floor, smoothed with a roller towards the corners;
Coating adjustment. The flooring is pressed very tightly around the perimeter, the excess is cut off at the base of the wall. The corners are cut diagonally and tucked under the baseboard;
Eliminating air. After processing the corners, the material is smoothed tightly over the entire surface;
Sealing seams. You can glue linoleum at the joints using cold welding - a special glue designed to secure the edges. The product can be colorless or matched to the color of the coating.

Is it necessary to glue linoleum to the floor: how to make the right decision. What to glue linoleum to - choosing glue and working with it What to glue linoleum to