A little-known way to create the simplest wooden gates. Wooden gates: design features Gates made of boards

Making wooden gates with your own hands is not the most difficult process if you know the sequence of operations and their nuances.

First of all, you need to decide on the type of gate, as well as the type of design. This will allow you to prepare necessary materials and get to work.

Types of wooden gates

Like metal gates, wooden ones are divided according to the type of opening into the following groups:

swing,
sliding,
lifting,
folding (accordion).

Moreover, in all types, you can install a gate if the opening is large enough, or install it next to the gate as a separate element of the barrier structure.

Regardless of what type was chosen, the design of wooden gates consists of support posts to which the gate leaves will be attached. The second element is the canvas itself, made from a frame and trimmed wooden planks(less often plywood or OSB).

The main difference between the types is the method of opening, and, accordingly, the method of fastening.

Swinging ones are hinged to the support posts, sliding ones are attached to the guides along which they will move (there are two of them: lower and upper).

For overhead gates you will have to specially purchase a lifting kit, which includes an electric motor, traction in the form of a chain or belt, as well as guides made of metal profiles.

Folding ones are assembled from several vertical sections connected by hinges. But the two outer sections are attached to the support pillars.

All of the above models are installed in the form of fencing openings not only on the street, but also indoors, for example in garages. Therefore, when the task of constructing a wooden garage door with your own hands is set, you can choose any of the types.

As practice shows, most owners of private plots, houses and garages give their preference to swing gates as the simplest, cheapest and most convenient to use. We will talk about them.

Manufacturing and installation of wooden swing gates

First of all, the dimensions of the gate are determined. Usually these are two identical doors, although there are options with different canvases. The width of the opening is determined taking into account the diameter of wooden pillars, which are used as logs or beams, round or rectangular pipes, and other steel profiles. Minimum size cross-section of wooden posts – 30 cm, steel – 10 cm.

Along the edges of the opening on one line, holes are dug with a depth of at least 1 m, with a diameter of 10–20 cm larger than the pillars. Sand 15 cm thick is poured into them with a tamper. Wooden stands are processed bitumen mastic or covered with roofing felt over a 1 m long section. The pillars are installed in holes and filled with concrete mortar.

Manufacturing of sashes

To assemble the frame of the doors, you need boards 50 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide. Instead of boards they also use wooden blocks. The main task is to accurately adjust their dimensions to the dimensions of the structure. Everything will depend on the height of the gate and the width of the opening. Therefore, four boards are prepared with a length equal to the height, and another four with a length equal to half the width.

A rectangular frame is assembled, where the method of attaching the boards to each other matters. Previously, connections with various cuts and additions in the form of dowels were used for this. Today, metal fastening profiles are used, which are screwed to the wood with self-tapping screws. By installing such profiles on both sides of the boards being connected, we obtain a fairly reliable fastening.

For reliability, you can install a jib (at 45°) in each corner from the same boards as the frame itself, and add a crossbar across the entire width of the sash. Often, instead of a crossbar, they are mounted diagonally installed element from the board.

Pay attention! Everything must be done to ensure that wooden gate leaves do not become loose at their fastening points during long-term use.

So, the frames of the canvases are ready, all that remains is to sheathe them. There are a huge number of options here, the easiest one is to install vertical boards 20–25 mm thick, 80–100 mm wide. They can be installed tightly to each other or leave small gaps. As for the length of the board cladding, it should be 20–25 cm greater than the height of the gate and protrude beyond the frame on each side. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws, the length of which must be at least twice the thickness of the cladding boards.

Installation of sashes

First, metal hinges are screwed onto the doors. There are two of them, the installation location is slightly offset to the middle from the lower and upper frame elements. The sequence of actions is as follows:

loops are applied at the fastening site;
marks are made through the mounting holes;
through holes are drilled through them in the frame;
the hinges are installed in place with precise alignment of the holes;
Bolts are inserted into the latter, onto which nuts with a wide washer are screwed on the opposite side.

The second part of the hinges is attached to the support posts. To do this, the doors are installed on bricks near the pillars with their exact location in height. The second parts are applied to the attached loops. Their mounting plate is applied to the racks, to which it is secured with long self-tapping screws. Such installation is possible if the pillars are wooden logs or timber.

If steel profiles are used, then mounting plate They are attached to them by electric welding or bolts. In the latter case, you will have to drill through holes in the racks.

All that remains is to install the ears for padlock and a pin for fixing the sashes in closed position. All these devices are attached to the frame elements with self-tapping screws.

Finishing wooden gates

Since the gates are installed outdoors, they are exposed to the negative effects of natural loads. Therefore, they are processed in several layers protective compounds. The first layer is an antiseptic. Its task is to protect the wood from negative impact microorganisms.

The second layer is drying oil. This paint material consists of 95% vegetable oil. It covers the tree thin layer, which protects against pests, microorganisms and moisture. Today, drying oil is used less and less, because manufacturers offer other modern materials.

The third layer is paint, varnish or stain. There is a huge selection of colors, textures and composition.

Original finishing methods

Wooden gates antique - one of the popular types of decoration. There is a huge variety of options offered, where many people prefer carved gates.

This type of finishing is complicated. To cut even the simplest figures from wood, you need special tools with the skills to work with them, experience and imagination. If neither one nor the other is available, then it is better to order ready-made trim, which you can attach to the frame of the doors yourself. Hand cutting is expensive.

Advice! Sold in stores carved elements from thin boards or thick plywood, which just need to be nailed with small nails to the elements of the wooden gate leaves.

To make it look antique, you can use painting. It also requires imagination and the ability to paint, although you can do without it. You need to buy stencils, since a wide range is sold in art stores. They can even be ordered for a specific design. And already applying painting through a stencil is a simple matter.

Another option for antique fitting is forged elements. This finish is the height of respectability. Even the most inconspicuous wooden gates, lined with forging, become a masterpiece of art. It is impossible to forge iron with your own hands if you are not a specialist in this matter. Fortunately, forged elements are now sold in construction stores. They are attached to wooden gates with nails or self-tapping screws.

Electric wooden gates

The fruits of civilization haunt most owners of private plots, houses, cottages and garages. Moreover, they become more affordable every year. For example, devices for automatic gate opening allow you to operate the gates without leaving the car.

To make wooden gates, it is better to use resinous wood. In this regard, birch is not suitable.

For fastening, use galvanized, brass or stainless steel screws. Preference is given bolted connection rather than using screws.

The antiseptic is applied in 2–3 layers. The next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Important! Install closers, they will reduce dynamic loads on fasteners, especially for hinges.

Taking into account all of the above, taking into account important points, making a wooden gate with or without a door with your own hands is not a problem. The main thing is to accurately measure the opening so that the closing doors do not interfere with each other and close tightly.

If the site is surrounded by a fence made of natural wood, then it is better to equip it with wooden gates. This article will discuss how to build a wooden gate with your own hands.

What will be required at work?

When making gates you will need the following tools:

adjustable wrench;
hammer;
jigsaw;
brush;
electric drill with drills o3 mm and o10 mm;
chisel;
hacksaw;
square;
plane;
roulette;
wood processing machine;
screwdriver

In addition, you will need materials such as:

self-tapping screws (regular and with screw thread);
sandpaper;
protective coating for wood;
acetone;
bars 7x5 cm;
two bars 5x5 cm;
four garage hinges;
board 2.5x10 cm.

Now, after preparing everything you need, you can get to work.

Stage 1. Installation of poles

The gate structure will be attached to the posts. They need to be installed correctly, with the most rigid and reliable fasteners. Even the slightest sagging is unacceptable.

Important! Attention must also be paid to the perpendicularity of the pillars relative to the ground, otherwise geometric shape the gate will be broken. When making calculations, you need to remember that each pillar needs to be lined with half a brick, and this width should also be taken into account during work.

Step 1. First, the installation site is cleared and the locations for the pits are determined. Can be used for digging bayonet shovel or a small drill. The depth of each hole should be at least 1 m, and the diameter should be made 10 cm larger than the diameter of the pillar (this gap will be filled with concrete mortar).

Step 2. Using a grinder, pipes of the appropriate length are cut, which are inserted into the holes made. The gaps are filled with crushed stone, after which the verticality of each pillar is checked using a plumb line. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The crushed stone is compacted.

Step 3. A liquid solution of “three hundredth” cement and sand is mixed in a ratio of 1:3. First, the dry mixture is mixed, then water is added little by little. After the solution is brought to the desired consistency, it is poured over the crushed stone and wait until it dries completely.

Important! You can add a little washing powder into the solution - this will prevent settling and, as a result, will greatly simplify the laying.

When laying, each seam of the bottom row must overlap with the top one so that the order is extremely strong. At the same time, do not forget about the correctness of the angles, for which you can use the same plumb line.

To improve aesthetics and drainage characteristics design, each pillar must end with a cap. These caps can be purchased at finished form or cut from a sheet of galvanized steel.

Step 5. After complete drying, the rows of bricks are embroidered.

Stage 2. Manufacturing of sashes

One of the options for assembling and covering the gate frame
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Step 1. First, the beams are processed. From them you need to make blanks of the required sizes. So, for standard double-leaf gates you will need:

two horizontal bars (lower and upper)
two vertical;
two for the central jumper.

Step 2. After cutting the workpieces, their surface is processed with a plane or a woodworking machine.

Stage 3. Construction of the frame

Assembly is performed with a one-sided tenon “on the mustache”.

Step 1. A pair of holes are drilled at each joint, into which self-tapping screws are screwed or dowels made of dried wood are inserted. The latter can be pre-coated for reliability. epoxy glue.

The use of dowels/screws is necessary to increase the rigidity of the connections.

Step 2. An additional jumper is installed in the center of the frame, to which the cladding of the structure will be attached.

Step 3. A jib is installed in each corner. For this, bars 30-40 cm long are used, the ends of which are cut at an angle of 45?. When attaching the jib to the bars, self-tapping screws are used.

Important! If the gate is, say, 2 m high, then the frame should be calculated in such a way that the boards protrude approximately 20-25 cm. Based on this, you need to make a frame 1.5-1.6 m high.

Stage 4. Sheathing the structure

Step 1. The boards are cut to the required size, after which they are planed on both sides until a thickness of 20 cm is reached. The ends are processed in the same way.

Step 2. The boards are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. You can place the boards end-to-end or in small increments - it all depends on personal preference.

Important! If it was decided to leave small gaps between the boards, then you can use a template for this - wooden slats, the length of which will be equal to the length of the cladding boards. In this case, the thickness of the template will correspond to the step with which it is planned to fasten the boards.

Step 3. After fastening, the upper part of the boards is cut in a straight line, and the cut areas are carefully cleaned with sandpaper.

Stage 5. Gate installation

Step 1. First, hinges are attached to the sashes, and in parallel, “capercaillies” are screwed into the bars with self-tapping screws. The doors are also attached to the pillars with capcacaillie.

Important! Before attaching the capercaillie, you need to drill several centimeters deep in appropriate places. The diameter of the holes should be several less thread"grouse". This simple move will make screwing in the screws much easier.

Step 2. The distance from the bottom edge to the ground should be at least 5 cm. This can be explained by the fact that in the future it is possible to install a new road surface, and with such a gap you won’t have to do any reinstallation.

Step 3. To fix the closed doors, install a metal pin or padlock. The coating is applied after installation.

Stage 6. Covering the structure

The finished gate must be properly treated, which will require varnish and primer.

Important! When buying varnish, you need to make sure that it is intended specifically for outdoor use. In addition, you should inquire about the maximum operating temperature.

Step 1. The surface is sanded with sandpaper or a grinder with a special attachment. All discovered “shells” are sealed with a special wood putty, and after drying the structure is sanded again.

First, coarse-grained sandpaper is used, and after polishing, fine-grained sandpaper is used.

Step 2. The wood is tinted. This will create the texture and desired shade. After the tint has dried, the surface is sanded again (with 100-grit paper).

Important! It is imperative to apply a primer, otherwise some areas of the gate will not be painted and bubbles and waves will form.

Step 3. Following the primer, the first layer of varnish is applied. The instructions should indicate drying time. After this time, a second layer is applied.

Gates are often decorated with iron forging - this gives the product a rich appearance. If you plan to use such forging, then this should be taken care of even before painting and sanding. In this case, the tree is covered with thin tin during work to protect it from damage.

For better tightness, after applying the second layer of varnish, the joints between wood and metal are treated with sealant. Indeed, sometimes it is impossible to achieve a tight fit, and such measures will prevent moisture from penetrating through these holes.

That's it, the wooden gates are ready, all that remains is to equip them with a wooden gate.

Video - Homemade wooden gates

Wooden gate

Before starting work, you need to prepare everything you need, otherwise a lack of one or another material can stop the process, which is extremely undesirable.

So, the work will require:

hammer;
mounting level;
hacksaw;
sandpaper;
pencil;
rope;
plane;
electric drill;
chisel;
screwdriver;
jigsaw;
boards, picket fence;
iron corners;
screws for wood;
accessories - hinges, handle, latch.

Wicket manufacturing technology

Step 1. First, determine the distance between the supports. If you do this correctly, the gate will work smoothly. Supports can be wooden posts or metal pipes(as described above).

The distance between the supports is fixed with a piece of wire placed on the ground and secured with something.

Step 2. Support pillars are installed. The technology is no different from that of wooden gates.

Step 3. Next, the door is made. To do this, four boards are connected at an angle of 90? metal corners. Then hinges are attached to the finished frame, after which it is checked to ensure it fits into the opening. If the result is positive, the frame is covered with a picket fence. The top of the gate is cut with a jigsaw in a straight line (it can also be in the form of waves, zigzags, etc.). The last to be cut is the lock and door handle.

Step 4. At the final stage, the gate is hung on its hinges, after which it is checked whether the door closes/opens freely. To fix the gate in the closed position, you can nail a piece of rubber to the end.

The wooden gate is ready for use.

Video – Beautiful ideas for wooden gates

As a conclusion

As you can see, to make wooden gates or gates, certain knowledge and skills in wood processing will still be required. Therefore, if there is neither one nor the other, it is better not to waste money and contact a specialist. The gate is the face of the house.

But with a firm intention to do everything yourself, all that remains is to wish good luck and masses creative ideas. With one more possible option – sliding gates made of wood - you can find out when watching a thematic video.

Video - Wooden sliding gates

The gate is the calling card of the house as a whole. They are the first thing guests see and they are a reflection of the financial well-being of the home owner. For this reason, any owner wants to make them beautiful, reliable and affordable. A wooden frame is the best solution.

Types of wooden gates

Swing gates are a classic look. It is based on two panels that open inward or outward. A lock is installed on the doors. The disadvantage of this type of design is that it requires space to open and close the doors.

If the area of the site is small, then they will not be suitable. Best option when the gate opens inward. This has positive side for drivers - a clear view of the road, especially when the exit from the site is located there;

Wooden sliding gates - designed for objects with limited space for opening swing gate leaves. The design is based on canvases with rollers that move along guides installed along the wall.

The disadvantage of the product is winter time you need to thoroughly clean them of snow, and in the autumn of leaves. To install the guides, you need space along the fence so that the canvas can open without restrictions. It is important that the fence is level, otherwise installation of the guides will become impossible;

Wooden gates with lifting mechanism. It is based on one canvas. It is raised by a cord. The cord is installed lightly. He secures the sash to hinges. A counterweight is attached to the canvas to close it. Tip: the sash should be made like a picket fence, not as a solid part. Otherwise it will be difficult to get up.

Preparatory stage

First you need to draw a diagram of the proposed frame. This is necessary to draw up an overall picture of the scope of work, draw up estimates, purchase building materials and prepare the necessary tool base.

Gates are often made of a swing type with several leaves. The main material is pine. This tree is light in weight and not affected by environment. When drawing up a diagram, it is necessary to correctly combine all the components of the frame and the structure as a whole. Otherwise, subsidence and distortion may occur in the future.

To make wooden gates you need the following material:

wooden beam 7 X 5 cm and 5 X 5 cm (central crossbar of the sash);
edged board (thickness 2.5 cm, width 1 cm);
wooden beam for racks - 2 pieces, wooden dowels, 4 hinges;
electric jigsaw, plane, hammer, drill bits, drill, screwdriver, tape measure, hacksaw for wood, measuring angle for right angles;
wood varnish, solvent;
level, plumb line, chisel, screws, sandpaper, brush;
building material (crushed stone, sand, cement).

Advice: before purchasing a wooden base, please note that the height of the gate must be at least 1200 mm. For stability wooden support installed in the ground at 1 thousand mm.

Installation of gate supports

Before laying in the ground, wooden supports are pre-treated to protect them from dampness and insects. To do this, use wood impregnation to avoid rotting and damage by insects. Part wooden post placed in the ground, protected from moisture with resin.

Installation in the ground is carried out only for supports on which there will be light canvases. If the soil is heaving, it is better to avoid concreting the supports. The best way– backfilling or additional reinforcement.

The support is lowered to a depth of 1800 mm (depending on the weight of the gate leaves). The stability of the wooden structure depends on the installation depth of the support. The hole is dug with a shovel or drilled with a drill 100 - 200 mm larger than the diameter of the support.

The support is lowered into a hole, previously compacted and filled with crushed stone, and fixed with concrete. The installation site must be clean. The support is installed vertically in level. Further installation and operation of the gate depends on this. For better installation, the support must be raised to distribute the concrete evenly. The remaining work is carried out after the concrete has hardened.

Creating a wood frame

Installation of pickets

The frame for a standard wooden gate is a standard frame with four sides. If the size of the gate opening is 3 X 5, the frame should be 3 X 4. The wood chosen for it is resistant to changes in weather conditions. The frame is made smaller than the gate opening by 20 - 30 mm to take into account the space for the hinges and taking into account that the tree will later become wider when the gate swings.

Tip: the wood for the frame and for the fence should be of the same species. Whatever tree you choose, it is better to buy it with a reserve so that there is enough for everything.

First you need to make blanks from wooden beam. They must be a certain size. For a gate leaf you need one beam for the upper part and one for the bottom, several beams for connecting the middle, several for the side posts. The top of all parts must be treated with a plane and coated with an antiseptic to prevent them from rotting in the future.

The stronger the installation of all parts, the stronger it will become wooden product generally. To attach the frame you will need a wooden dowel. The wooden frame must have holes drilled through in the places where the fasteners are installed. Wooden dowels treated with epoxy glue are placed in them. They are necessary for structural rigidity. The fastening must be strengthened with self-tapping screws. The frame has various corner connections:

installation on the "whisker" - with a through or blind tenon, dowels, flat and open tenon, insert tenons - with a flat blind or open;
cotter pin;
using glue.

A beam is attached to the frame in the center in order to use it to connect the sheathing. In the corner parts of the frame, slopes are installed - beams 30 - 40 cm long, having cuts of 45 0 at the end. The bevels at the ends of the beams are secured with self-tapping screws.

It is important to take into account that when joining the gate leaves, the cladding boards are 150 - 200 mm larger than the frame. The height of the frame is calculated taking into account these nuances. For example, the finished gate has a height of 2 thousand mm, then the side posts should have a height of 1600 - 1700 mm.

Frame cladding and sash installation

For cladding it is necessary to prepare boards. To do this, they are cut according to parameters that were previously calculated, then processed with a plane around the perimeter. They are installed on the gate frame using self-tapping screws.

The boards are placed at a certain distance or close to each other. This is a matter of taste of the owner. When placing in a certain step, it is better to use a template. The length of the template is equal to the length of the cladding boards. The thickness of the template is equal to the distance planned between the boards.

After installing the sheathing, the upper part of the boards is trimmed. They do it according to the profile. Then all cutting parts are sanded. The second half of the gate leaf is done in the same way.

Next, the installation itself is carried out. Self-tapping screws, which have screw-type threads, are screwed into the frame, thereby securing the hinges on the sashes. To make screwing in the screws easier, pre-drill a hole smaller than the head of the screw.

The gate and the ground must have a gap of at least 50 mm between themselves. This will make it easier to install the tiles near the yard in the future.

For long service life, the wooden gate frame is coated with a protective varnish using a brush. The coverage should be uniform. Special attention give to the edges of the planks. They are more susceptible to moisture. If the climate is dry, two hours will be enough to dry. If it is wet, then a day.

Wooden products in our country are especially loved by the population. Despite its external simplicity, wood attracts with its warmth, good quality and reliability. Of course, no one will argue that metal is stronger and more stable, but if metal or profile barriers are found at every step, then wooden gates are a piece of material, almost a design work, even if they are made of unpolished boards. How to make wooden gates with your own hands, what design to choose, how to avoid the main problems when working with wood - all this is in our article.

Design Features

Given the relative density of wood, the gate frame should still be made of metal. This will keep the shape and geometry of the gate unchanged for a long time and will not allow the edges of the wood to dry out, which are usually the first to be damaged during prolonged contact with precipitation.

The doors themselves can be made directly from wood, and then assembled structure secure transverse joists. If the length of the sash is less than 150 cm, then there is no point in the logs; the fixation provided by the holding frame is sufficient.

The length of the gate, excluding the wicket, should be calculated based on the operating conditions. If they are designed for small-sized cars, 250-300 cm is enough; for large-sized or several cars it is worth doing from 300 cm.

Wooden gates can also be sliding. In general, this is a relatively simple system that ensures that the gate leaf moves along a guide. Structurally, the guide is a metal rail welded to the main frame, into which roller carriages are inserted. It is on them that the sash is attached and holds it rigidly. Manage recoil mechanism You can manually or set up an automatic control triggered from the remote control.

What kind of wood is best to make a gate from?

It is easier and cheaper to make wooden gates from pine

Experts advise using wood that grows in a particular region, including conifers. Of course, the most common tree in Russia is pine, and it is the one most often chosen for finishing works, for street and load-bearing structures. There are several reasons for this, but the main two are:

low cost of material compared to hardwood;
pine tolerates natural precipitation well, dries out little due to the high concentration of resins and has an absolutely straight trunk, which is all the more important for large panels, for example, gate leaves.

Larch is denser, therefore more difficult to process and costs more. But this material has a wider range of textures, which means that the fencing structure will look brighter and more original.

Some choose oak to make wooden gates with their own hands, but for just such a structure it is not the most profitable investment. The rich texture and quality of the wood attracts, in general it is visually more advantageous, but in terms of quality and durability in outdoor conditions there is no fundamental difference between larch and oak, which means why pay more?

How to treat wood before going into the ground

Someone will begin to doubt the advisability of such an event, arguing that it is prone to rotting. But if you are planning an authentic gate and gate, that is, completely wooden, then the concrete pillars will look like a foreign body. So, how to properly process:

The part that will be immersed in the ground, plus another 15-25 cm (for the gap between the ground and the frame) is burned on all sides with a burner until it is slightly charred.
The charred part is tarred with melted tar (1.5-2 liters, depending on the number of pillars and the depth of immersion) and, while still hot, is tightly wrapped in roofing material. You can use burlap, but it’s better to take roofing felt.
After complete cooling, such pillars can be buried in the ground - even after 30 years there will not be the slightest trace of rotting on them.

Manufacturing of wooden gates

IN in this case We are talking about a swing structure with a separate section for a gate. A total of 3 support pillars will be needed.

The height of the gate is selected according to personal preference. Recommended - from 180 to 220 cm. This is enough to hide what is happening in the yard from prying eyes, provide high-quality protection, but not recreate the semblance of an impregnable fortress in the yard.

For a gate height of 180 cm, the support pillars are immersed in the ground to a depth of at least 100 cm (taking into account the level of soil freezing) and must be concreted. On average, the solution takes from 7 to 15 days to harden, depending on the ambient temperature.

So, lumber:

picket fence for finishing the gate frame 20 x 40 mm and more;
block 40 x 40 cm for the frame - 4 parts 180, 180, 100, 100 cm;
support beam 100 x 100 cm - 3 pcs. 280 cm each.

For support pillars, you can use larch, oak or pine - the strongest. Treatment with firing, tar and roofing felt is required.

handle and lock for the gate;
locking mechanism - lock, beam or latch;
stops for fixing the gate;
hinges for sashes and gates;
cement M300;
river sand;
crushed stone

Tools:

jigsaw;
to work with unpolished boards you will need a plane and a rasp;
screwdriver;
drill;
drill for preparing holes;
plumb line;

Sample list of tools

Additionally, you will need buckets and other containers where concrete for the pits will be mixed.

How to correctly carry out calculations and draw up a project

Before you start making wood swing gates with your own hands, you need to decide on their dimensions and draw up detailed drawing. Here, the height, size of the doors, opening method, size and location of the gate are taken into account.

Let us give as an example several drawings of wooden gates, from which you can choose the most suitable one for a specific area.

Drawing of a wooden swing gate - with a right-hand gate

Drawing of a wooden swing gate - with a left-hand gate

Drawing of a wooden swing gate - with a separate standing gate

Drawing of a wooden gate - sliding design

Key indicators:

height - 180-300 cm;
the width of each door is 150-220 cm;
wicket width - 100 cm;
the number of transverse bars (lags) is 2-4 depending on the height.

Work order

Site cleaning

Before making a wooden gate, you should clear the area of large stones, stumps and other objects that may interfere with the work and installation of the structure.

Marking the location of supports

In order for the entire structure to be straight along the entire length future design drive pegs into the ground, pull a cord between them and check the horizontal position with a building level

For support pillars, dig 3 holes 100-120 cm deep. The upper level above the ground must be absolutely flat, so try to level them in depth, and if that doesn’t work, then you’ll have to cut off the top.
Sand mixed with crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pit, this will be a conditional cushion, filled with water and compacted with a stick or any other available object. Next, strictly vertically (check by plumb line), a beam or concrete pillar and is filled with a pre-prepared concrete solution of 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.

There is no need for reinforcement, since a meter depth is enough for a strong and reliable fastening of the entire wooden fence structure.

5-10 days after the concrete has completely dried, you can attach the gate frame or hang the doors directly on the hinges.

At the top, the support pillars are fastened with a horizontal cross member, which will work in a similar way to a stiffening rib, giving stability to the entire structure.

Features of sash assembly

It is better to assemble the frame of each sash in a horizontal position. Boards, saw cuts or picket fences are selected according to the size of the frame, which can be conveniently assembled using wooden dowels.

For reference! Wooden dowel - fastener in the form of a large wooden nail. Used to connect boards and beams.

After the canvas is assembled, it is finally fixed with self-tapping screws along the edges of the frame. Additionally, a lintel is installed that strengthens the overall sash. The jumper is usually located in the center and looks either like a “Z” or a cross.

It is better to supplement large sashes with jibs so that over time the edges do not extend beyond the frames and do not loosen the entire structure.

The final step will be to install the latch with a hinge.

Be sure to cover the entire structure with varnish to impart a noble shine and increase service life.

The varnish can be clear or tinted

VIDEO: How to make wooden gates with your own hands

Any private property, whether country house or cottage, needs protection. A good quality product is perfect for these purposes. wooden fence. But what kind of fence would be complete without a gate? The best entrance for such a fence is a wooden swing gate. And a handmade product will decorate even the most simple fence.

Advantages of wooden gates

Almost any type of wood can be used for gates. But service life different types wood is not much different. Many inexpensive breeds are very durable and will serve as gates for many years.

The optimal choice for such a product is larch. Conifers very durable, they have been used in construction for many centuries and are only strengthening their position in this area. Larch wood is resistant to rot and moisture.

Despite the low cost and aesthetic appearance, wood has a number of significant disadvantages:

low strength;
short service life - from 5 years;
low fire resistance.

Important! To improve the performance of wood, you can use various techniques, such as combining wood with metal, treating it with fire retardants, etc.

Often, to increase the strength of the gate, its frame is made of metal. This not only improves the performance of the wood, but also gives the gate a unique look.

Drawing

Before you start marking the material for the gates, you need to measure the space for their installation. Even small discrepancies in size can be fraught with flaws in the operation of the gate. Therefore, all defects in the fence should be eliminated before installing the gate.

Pay attention! When designing a fence, do not forget to leave a distance between the doors and the ground. This is necessary for ease of operation of the gate.

The width of the future gate largely depends on the following factors:

Availability and brand of car. The larger the car, the wider the gate should be. If a garage or parking lot is located inside the site, then the gate should have a margin of 50-100 cm for maneuvers during check-in and parking.
Construction and personal plot. If you have a vegetable garden on your property and it is actively used, then wide gates will be very useful. Large vehicles are used to deliver fertilizers, seedlings or soil. The same applies to import building materials and technology.
Distance from the gate to the road. When building gates, you need to take into account the distance to the road - if it is large, then the size of the gates can be unlimited. Otherwise, when the gate is swinging, it may interfere with the passage of vehicles.

If you don’t know what size structure is needed for your site, use standard size(3-4 meters).

Preparation and calculation of material

When calculating the height of the gate, you should start from the value of 120 cm. The size is considered minimal. It may vary depending on the height of the fence and other conditions. In addition to the leaves, the gates need supports. Their height must be at least 1 meter greater than the height of the gate. This difference sinks into the ground to stabilize the structure.

For construction, you will need square bars with a cross-section of 4 cm or more. They will serve as a frame for future gates. You can use metal for these purposes, but then you will need a drill to make holes. The best material oak is considered to be used for gate supports - it is one of the strongest and most moisture-resistant species.

To cover the gate frame, use a picket fence with a cross-section of 3 by 5 cm. In addition to wood, for the gate you will need:

latch or lock (for a gate, if there is one);
hinges for the lock;
canopies (the number depends on the design);
screws or nails.

It is not necessary to install a lock on the gate, but it will increase the security of the site. To cut the material you will need a jigsaw. In addition to this, to construct the gate you will need the following tools:

drill and screwdriver;
plane;
level and roulette.

Almost everyone has most tools in their home. The missing elements can be easily rented, this will allow you to significantly save on the construction of the gate.

Installation of supports

Before installing gate supports, it is necessary to prepare the soil at the work site. To do this, use a shovel, rake and other garden tools. The soil is dug up to a depth of 20 cm, depending on the soil. When installing gate supports, it is necessary to remove large stones and plant rhizomes. After which the soil is leveled with a rake. At the support sites, landmarks are installed - pegs, between which a thread is pulled.

If you are installing wooden gate supports, they must be impregnated before digging in. antiseptics. The part that is immersed in the ground is treated with mastic or resins. This will protect the wood from rotting and moisture.

For supports, holes are dug from 1 meter deep; the depth is considered minimal for long-term operation. Sand is poured into the bottom of the pits in a layer of 10 cm, then spilled with water and compacted. When the water is slightly absorbed, the support pillars are immersed. They must coincide with each other in height up to 5 mm. The markings of the supports are verified with a water level and a stretched thread. The vertical position of the pillars is checked using a handy plumb line.

When the pillars are inside the pits, crushed stone, 25 cm thick, is poured into it. A concrete solution is poured on top of the crushed stone (1 part cement to 2 parts sand).

It is inconvenient for one person to install the supports. To prevent work from causing you discomfort, enlist the help of a friend or hire an employee. Even supporting the supports while pouring cement requires the help of another person.

Important! If you are using a very massive gate with metal parts of the structure, it is better to use concrete or brick for supports. Such poles will last much longer than wooden ones.

After the solution has dried, you can begin installing the sashes. If you are unsure about the strength of concrete, wait a couple more days. Otherwise, the supports will not support the weight of the sashes and the concrete will crack.

To make the gates and supports stronger, a support beam is attached to the top. It serves as a stiffening rib for the structure and reduces the load from the sashes on the supports.

Gate frame

To create. frame, it is necessary to mark and cut the timber to the size of the opening. The resulting bars are laid out on flat surface in the shape of a rectangle. The evenness of the edges is checked with a level

Pay attention! The gate frame can be made from metal profiles or steel pipe. But for this you will need a welding machine.

If you don’t know what sizes and materials to use for gates and supports, watch a video review of a DIY product:

Holes are made in the corners of the bars with a drill and fastened with dowels, nails or self-tapping screws. For additional strength, steel corners and steel corners are placed in the corners and in the center of the frame. cross bars. At the point of contact, at the corners, the bars are cut at 45 degrees. Beams are placed crosswise at the corners and secured with self-tapping screws.

Frame finishing

The most creative stage of creating a gate is the trim. It can be made solid or lattice - it all depends on your imagination. The most practical is considered to be a monolithic mount. But if you want to lighten the structure and save material, you can make small gaps between the picket fence.

Pay attention! If you attach the slats at a distance from each other, use a template. Another board or small plank will do for this.

The slats are attached to the frame so that they look 15-20 cm beyond the boundaries of the future sashes. When all the elements are attached, you can level all the slats to the same level.

Installation of sashes

The final stage is attaching the sashes to the supports. For this purpose, ready-made loops are used. One side is applied to the support post, the other to the sash. The parts are screwed on with self-tapping screws. It is better to mark the place where the hinges are attached in advance; it should be the same on both sashes. To reduce the immersion time of the self-tapping screw, small holes are first made in the fastening areas with a drill.

By following these detailed instructions, you can easily make and attach swing gates with your own hands. After installation, the finished product can be coated with stain, paint or varnish.