The optimal comfortable temperature for adenium is +25 +35 °C. At room temperature below +15 °C, the plant will shed its leaves.
Watering: moderate in summer, with the substrate drying for 2-3 days, in winter – minimal. During the holiday period, adenium is removed from the sun in a brightly lit place with diffused light.
In general, since light, temperature and watering are interrelated in plant care, watering should be reduced when light and temperature decrease and increased when they increase.
Adenium transplantation. Main reasons for transplantation
In what cases is a transplant necessary?
Firstly, replanting is necessary if the plant is planted in a cramped pot.
Why can’t a seedling be planted immediately? big pot?
A substrate that does not dry out can cause the roots of the plant to begin to rot.
It is better if you replant the seedling during the growth period every 2-3 months, and the pot should have a small supply. Only under these conditions will the plant develop well.
Young adeniums need to be replanted during active growth once a year, older plants - less often - once every 2-3 years.
The roots of an adult plant are so powerful that the pot often cannot withstand their pressure, as a result of which it is not uncommon for the pot to burst.
Secondly, replanting is necessary as a result of rotting of the roots and caudex. In this case, the adenium must be dug up, the affected areas cut back to healthy tissue, treated with a fungicide, thoroughly dried and planted in a new mixture.
In this case, replanting can save your plant from disease.
Third, a transplant is needed if you initially received a flower planted in an unsuitable soil mixture.
During the dormant period, it is better not to take risks; it is better to start before the start of the growing season.
Fourth, if initially, for example, the adenium was planted in a pot that was too large. Then the plant must be planted in a pot of a suitable size.
As soon as the conditions for replanting meet all the requirements, water the plant about 2 days before replanting. A flower saturated with moisture will easily tolerate transplantation.
If it happens that during transplantation you damage the roots or caudex, sprinkle the damaged areas with charcoal powder, or sulfur, or Teovit Jet. Around day 2-3, when the wounds have dried, a transplant is possible.
Young adenium's roots grow wider. With each transplant, the planting line is lowered by 2-3 cm, leaving part of the roots above the ground. This way you will get a plant grown using the bansai technique.
When transplanting young adenium, it is recommended to disturb the earthen ball as little as possible so as not to harm the roots.
When transplanting an adult plant, the roots of the plant are washed, checked to see if they are damaged, and dried.
If you were planting a plant in universal soil, then the recommendation would come down to the following: take a handful of the mixture, squeeze and unclench your palm. If a slightly compressed lump of soil has formed on your palm, touch it with your finger; if it falls apart, it means the soil has the required moisture content. Only in this case should a transplant be done.
But specifically for planting mixture for adenium, this method is not entirely suitable, since there are a lot of rippers in the soil, which can lead to the collapse of even moderately moist soil.
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After transplantation, the plant should not be watered. Watering adult adenium should be resumed a week after transplantation.
A young plant is watered after 3-4 days, seedlings - somewhere on the 2nd day. To prevent the top layer of soil from drying out, you can lightly moisten it with a spray bottle once a day if the caudex is not damaged.
The plant does not need spraying.
Pot
Pot shape– another subtlety associated with growing adenium.
Since the root of adenium is long in the first year of life, it is advisable to plant seedlings in deep dishes, for example, you can use a plastic cup. The roots of a young plant, while in the ground, grow in breadth, and they are also thick and fleshy. Then use a regular standard pot of normal size. When growing bonsai, a bonsai bowl is used.
The size of the seedling pot suggests that the distance from the wide part of the caudex to the wall of the pot should be 2-3 cm.
The diameter of the pot should be such that it matches the diameter of the root caudex at its widest part.
For a young plant, it is enough to choose a pot with a diameter of 3-4 cm, for an adult - 4-7.
Material for the pot
It is better if it is plastic or clay without glaze.
A clay pot without glaze has water and breathability, which is very important, as it reduces the likelihood of the plant flooding. In addition, harmful salts are released through the walls, and plus, such a pot is stable.
However, over time, air permeability decreases, which leads to a deterioration in the growing conditions of the plant. In addition, if the plant is on a cold windowsill, then clay, as a natural conductor of cold, can contribute to hypothermia of the roots. And in summer, summer overheating is possible, since clay is a good conductor of both heat and cold.
Release of salts what plants need, does not enhance the aesthetic appearance of the pot.
A plastic pot is a poor conductor of both heat and cold, so a plant in a plastic pot is not exposed to temperature changes. The roots are easily removed during transplantation, since they do not stick to the walls. Calcium salts are washed out through the drainage hole, so the appearance of the pot does not deteriorate. The price of a plastic pot is much lower than a clay pot.
However, plastic pots do not release moisture as well as clay pots, so you need to be careful with watering.
On a south window, brown plastic can get very hot, so it should not be placed there.
A plastic pot is more suitable for an adult plant than for a young one, whose caudex is not very developed and as a result the pot may be unstable.
Using this or that pot, you need to Special attention pay attention to watering, light and take into account the thickness of the plant’s caudex and the diameter of the pot.
Substrate
Whatever mixtures are used for planting, the main thing is that they are breathable, loose and dry quickly.
In percentage composition, baking powder can be placed in the following order: about 50% should be perlite; 20% - vermiculite; up to 20% fine expanded clay; about 25% - expanded clay chips; 20% brick chips; 25%- foam balls; coarse sand – 20%; clay granulate – 20%; small pieces of charcoal up to 20%.
The pot plays an important role when composing the mixture. Plastic pots retain moisture longer than clay ones, so in this case you shouldn’t get carried away with vermiculite, but for clay pots vermiculite will come in handy.
The same must be taken into account for specific climatic conditions. Where the climate is cool, you should not get carried away when composing the mixture with components that retain moisture, but in hot climates the situation is the opposite.
The mixture must be safe.
The drainage should be a few centimeters deep. Brick chips, expanded clay, and pieces of foam plastic are suitable for this purpose. Since pebbles are cold-conducting materials, they cannot be used as drainage, since the roots may rot.
An example of one of the best mixtures for growing adenium:
- for cool climates:
50% coconut fiber, 30% perlite, 10% expanded clay, 10% coal; - for hot climates:
50% coconut fiber, 20% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 10% charcoal
Soil sterilization
What is it for?
Because young plants are very sensitive to all kinds of diseases and pests that may be contained in the substrate intended for planting, and sterilize the soil.
At home, this procedure can be done using microwave oven, by heating in the oven, disinfect over steam, in a saucepan, with chemicals, by freezing.
In a microwave oven, the substrate is disinfected either in a glass container or in a plastic pot. It is better not to put the original package in the microwave.
With this processing method, you need to make sure that the average power is set; the processing time should be 10-20 minutes. Since moisture disappears when heated, you need to pour a little water into the container before the procedure, and also cover the container with a lid.
When heating in the oven, the substrate is laid out on a baking sheet, do not forget to moisten it, cover it with foil, and heat for 1 hour to 1.5 hours at a temperature of 150 degrees.
If you want to heat the substrate over steam, you will need a colander or iron sieve. To prevent soil from spilling through the holes, cover it with cloth. Heat the substrate over steam for at least 1 hour, and do not forget to add water to the pan as it evaporates.
A fairly simple method is heating in a saucepan. The substrate is poured into a pan into which a small amount of water is poured. The pan is placed on the stove with gas. After the lid of the pan begins to “bounce”, reduce the gas a little and steam for 30 minutes. Do not remove the lid until the pan has cooled completely.
As chemicals use fungicides (Maxim and Fitosporin) and insecticides/acaricides (for example, Intavir). It is advisable to repeat the procedure after a week.
Freezing the substrate involves leaving the soil on the balcony for the winter, or placing it in the freezer. However, we must remember that frost does not affect all pests, so the substrate is also treated with chemicals.
Sterilization of rippers and drainage
Since drainage and rippers are used for transplantation in addition to the substrate, they should also be sterilized. The best way there will be a method of sterilization in a microwave oven. The ripper needs to be thoroughly wet, use ceramics or glass for dishes, set the temperature to the maximum, depending on the volume, the heating time should range from 5 to 10 minutes. Sand and brick chips can be calcined in a frying pan without a Teflon coating, and to sterilize drainage, use all the other methods as for soil.
Crown formation
Starting from 2-3 months, a young seedling should be pinched - it is necessary to remove from 0.5 to 2 centimeters from the top of the central conductor or side branches, and at the age of 12-18 months, pruning can be done, i.e. partially or completely remove shoots, branches, roots.
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Pruning is done in the spring 2-4 months after transplantation. During the dormant period, neither pinching nor pruning is performed.
2 days before the crown begins to form, adenium should be watered so that the plant does not experience water deficiency.
The cut is made either with a paper cutter, a blade or a stainless steel knife.
The cut is made 3-4 mm above the dormant bud.
Wipe the blade with alcohol after each cut.
Wipe the juice secreted by the plant with a napkin.
As soon as the adenium stops secreting juice, treat the cut area with garden balsam or RanNet garden paste.
Water should not get into the wounds after cutting, which can lead to tissue rotting.
If 2-3 weeks after pruning you are not satisfied with the number of replacement shoots, the procedure can be repeated, but remember that the maximum pruning depth should be above the buds of the first pair of true leaves.
When forming the crown, do not forget that the plant produces poisonous juice and therefore hands must be washed with soap. And if you have wounds or abrasions on your hands, use gloves.
What soil should I choose for planting adenium? How good is the finished mail? Is there a universal or recommended composition? Maybe it would be better to buy coconut soil for adenium or prepare the soil at home? Similar questions are asked by all flower growers who want to diversify their collection. indoor plants adeniums. So, let’s turn to the opinion of experts and figure out what soil to choose for planting adenium at home. Let’s decide on the optimal soil composition for adenium. Is it possible to buy ready-made soil mixtures for this plant?
Characteristics of soil for adenium
What should be the composition of soil for adenium? Experts from Taiwan, Thailand, and India unanimously claim that there is no universal composition of the soil mixture for growing adenium. The composition of the soil depends on many factors: humidity and average air temperature in the area where adeniums will be grown. Also taken into account are the soil components available in a given region, their pH, nutritional value, fractional composition, and percentage of salt content.
In modern stores you can find ready-made soil for adenium. This is soil for succulents. But, in most cases, it has an “average” composition, that is, the components here, their percentage content is reduced to general indicators humidity and air temperature. The finished soil will never correspond exactly to the microclimate in which adenium is planned to be grown. That is why experts do not recommend buying ready-made soil for adenium, but preparing it yourself, taking into account all the factors environment.
It is recommended to prepare the soil for adenium yourself, taking into account the characteristics of the microclimate (room, greenhouse). where the plant is planned to be grown. Can buy ready soil for succulents, but it will never be ideal for successful cultivation adenium.
More details, how to prepare soil for adenium at home. Examples of two soil mixtures
Rules for compiling a soil mixture for adenium
When composing the soil for adenium at home, it is imperative to take into account the climate characteristics of the area where the plant is planned to be grown. These are humidity and average air temperature, intensity of sunlight and daylight hours. The moisture capacity of the soil, its air permeability, fractional composition, pH and salt composition are also taken into account.
Soil moisture capacity (WHC). This is the ability of the soil mixture to retain moisture between waterings. The higher the moisture capacity of the composed soil substrate, the less often it needs to be watered. But here it is also necessary to take into account the climate characteristics of the area where adeniums grow. So, if it is dry and hot outside or indoors (air temperature above +25...+27 degrees, humidity below 75%), then a soil mixture with greater moisture capacity will be relevant. And vice versa, if it is cold or there is high air humidity (air temperature below +25 degrees, air humidity above 80%), then it is better to give preference to light soils with low moisture holding capacity.
The moisture capacity will depend on the age of the plant and the size of the pot in which it is placed. So, if the plant is large and has well-developed root system, and the pot is small (the roots are close to the walls of the pot), then the soil in such a system will dry out very quickly, and therefore you will need soil with a high moisture capacity. On the contrary, the plant was recently transplanted into a larger pot than the previous one. In such a system, moisture will leave the soil slowly, so you need to choose a soil mixture with low moisture capacity.
The photo shows black soil. This is heavy soil. It is highly not recommended to use it in its pure form for planting adenium, as it contains a lot of nitrogen. When watered, it behaves similarly to clay. Its structural particles, interacting with water, form a dense structure. The latter does not allow air to reach the roots of the plant.
The photo above shows coconut crumbs. Although it is capable of retaining moisture within itself, it is added to the soil to improve aeration.
The following can increase the moisture capacity of the soil: peat, coconut fiber, clay, chernozem. Coarse-grained or washed river sand is designed to reduce moisture holding capacity.
Aeration or air permeability of the soil. This concept refers to the ability of the soil to pass air to the roots of the plant. Air permeability is inversely proportional to soil moisture capacity. That is, as air permeability increases, moisture capacity decreases and vice versa. If we consider the cultivation of adenium, then the indicator of air permeability is more important here than moisture capacity. It is better when more air passes to the roots of the plant. This prevents the development of rot and nematodes. In wet and heavy soil, the root system develops very slowly. It is more susceptible to rotting. What negatively affects health and appearance flower.
Agroperlite is intended for growing indoor plants, does not contain heavy metals, increases soil aeration, is able to retain moisture inside itself and release water to the soil as it dries.
Coarse-grained sand is designed to improve soil aeration. But it has very little moisture capacity and contains virtually no nutrients.
What can increase the breathability of soil for adenium? These are coarse-grained sand, coconut fiber, vermiculite (non-toxic, enriches the soil with potassium and magnesium), perlite (you can buy special perlite for gardening. Industrial perlite contains toxic elements), expanded clay.
It is also worth considering the structure of the soil. Only structured soil will allow air to pass to the roots of adenium. What is structured soil? These look like small lumps of soil, the smaller particles of which are connected by a binding component. Let's look at it with an example.
Separately, clay soil and humus are small particles. When watering, a dense crust forms on the surface of the soil, where clay or humus predominates, and the soil itself turns into one large lump that will never let air through to the roots of the plant. If you mix clay and humus together, and then add water to this system, lumps will form before your eyes. They can then be called complete structured soil. However, such a structure is short-lived and is destroyed if excess nitrogen fertilizers are added to the soil. Therefore, it is better to maintain the soil structure using components such as expanded clay, vermiculite, and a commensurate ratio of peat or coconut fiber in the system.
In addition to the structure of the soil, its texture is also important. Texture refers to the size of interacting particles. For example, ordinary (construction) sand is not added to the soil for adenium, since it has a poor texture. It's very small. Instead, it is recommended to use coarse-grained (river) sand. It is larger, that is, it has a good texture. Such sand will allow air to pass well to the roots of the plant.
Next important point- you cannot mix small and very large particles with each other (two latest photos). For example, you cannot mix expanded clay with a particle size of 1 cm, sand and humus. Smaller particles of humus and sand will densely fill the space between larger particles of expanded clay. The soil structure will suffer, and so will the breathability. It is better to take expanded clay for making a soil mixture with a particle size of up to 0.5 cm. It is recommended to use vermiculite instead.
Soil acidity (pH), percentage of salt content. The optimal soil acidity for adeniums lies in the range of 5 - 6. It is in such an environment that the plant grows and develops well, consuming everything from the soil nutrients. If the pH range shifts up or down, problems with the plant begin. These are diseases - rot, chlorosis, as well as general developmental delay. Why is this happening? In a strongly acidic or, conversely, alkaline environment, adenium is not able to absorb nutrients and microelements from the soil, which negatively affects the condition of the flower.
How to avoid the problem? Initially, do not add a large percentage to the soil mixture. organic fertilizers. This applies to bird droppings and unrotted large droppings cattle. Otherwise, the pH will shift closer to 0, that is, the environment will be acidic. Plus, nitrites and nitrates will predominate in the soil. Of course, nitrogen, like other nutrients, is necessary for adeniums, but manufacturers from Thailand and India recommend adding them less, but more often.
The next problem is alkalization of the soil. This happens if you water the soil for adenium with hard water. Before watering, it is better to boil the water or neutralize the alkaline environment with a few drops of lemon juice.
The soil for Adeniums is one of the most important components of health, good growth and abundant early flowering of your plant. Therefore, there is so much controversy, debate and disagreement around this topic.
Remember the main characteristics of the soil for Adenium:
1. Neutral acidity (PH value 5.8-7.0).
2. Air and water permeability.
3. Sterility.
I will not give examples of the soil composition of foreign breeders, since the choice of “ingredients” depends on climatic conditions and market characteristics.
Now let's look at each point in detail.
Let me note right away that when proper watering your adenium will not die even in simple soil for cacti, but in this case you have practically no right to make a mistake when watering, otherwise there is a very high probability of rotting of the root system and having your own experience and, reinforcing your conclusions with the experience of Thai breeders, it is still soil for cacti without additives it is too dense for Adenium.
When choosing a substrate, it is very important to find the optimal balance of soil and inert disintegrants (up to 50%). If there are a lot of rippers, then the plant will not receive required quantity moisture and nutrition, since when watering the moisture will directly come out through the drainage holes of the pot; if it is not enough, the substrate will turn out to be dense, and this contributes to rotting and slow growth.
1. The degree of acidity or alkalinity of the soil has a great influence on the development of roots and the supply of nutrition to the plant. Soil is considered neutral if its pH is in the range of 5.8-7.0. If the coefficient is lower, the soil is considered acidic, if higher - alkaline. The PH level of purchased soils is always indicated on the packaging; if you are going to use garden or other soil, then there are special strips for measuring.
2. The earthen mixture for Adeniums is based on peat soil and coconut substrate and should contain up to 50% of inert disintegrants, such as perlite, vermiculite, river or quartz sand spilled with potassium permanganate (construction fine sand is not suitable!), fine charcoal (not to be confused with activated), fine expanded clay, zeolite, coconut chips, coconut fiber, in extreme cases you can use pine nut shells, broken brick, foam balls. There are also other leavening agents such as sphagnum moss and pine bark, but they are not suitable for adenium, as they have big disadvantages: acidic PH and excessive moisture holding capacity.
There are such concepts as permeable and moisture-absorbing soil; these two terms should not be combined or confused, usually they are mutually exclusive. Water permeability is the ability of soil to pass water; the degree of moisture permeability depends on the quantity and properties of the components that make up the soil.
Moisture capacity is the ability of the soil to absorb and retain moisture, giving it to the plant in portions; the degree of moisture capacity also depends on the components included in the composition.
Detailed description each of these components can be read in the article “Soil and inert disintegrants”.
3. Perlite, vermiculite, charcoal, zeolite, coconut chips, coconut fiber, peat and coconut substrate are sterile substances. The sand and soil will need to be disinfected; if you are a supporter of calcination, steaming, or spilling the soil with a bright red solution of potassium permanganate, then you need to prepare the soil in advance, at least 2 weeks before replanting, to restore the microflora. There is also a sterilization method - freezing the soil, but this method does not give 100% effect.
So, before giving examples of soil mixtures for adeniums, I would like to quote the sensible words of one Indian owner of the Adenium plantation, Mr. Haysoti: “The compounds in the substrate themselves do not mean much. They must be tied to the environmental, climatic and cultural conditions of your residence and then , together you can give a good result." I fully agree with these words.
Substrate options for Adenium:
1. 30% coconut substrate + 30% cactus soil + 15% vermiculite + 15% perlite + 10% river sand and/or charcoal. This is a universal earthen mixture, suitable for most climatic conditions in Russia.
2. 50% soil for cacti and succulents or universal flower soil + 15% vermiculite + 25% perlite + 10% river sand and/or charcoal. Also a popular compound substrate.
3. 50% coconut soil + 30% perlite + 10% vermiculite + 10% charcoal, sand and other leavening agents. Suitable for cool summers and cool conditions, as well as for “irrigators”.
4. 30% soil for cacti or Universal flower soil + 30% high peat + 20% perlite + 20% vermiculite. Suitable for hot dry summers and for dryers.
Another important note:
When composing the soil mixture for adenium, take into account the peculiarity of the planting container; if you are a lover of ceramics, then the peculiarity of this material is that it is a good heat insulator, this means that it takes a long time to heat up, but also takes longer to cool down than plastic, the walls of the ceramic pot absorb soil moisture and the soil in it dries out longer, so you should not get carried away with moisture-intensive additives, such as vermiculite. With plastic pots, things are a little different; in plastic, the soil quickly takes on the ambient temperature, the soil dries out quickly, which means additives such as vermiculite, which retain moisture, will only be beneficial. And the cooler the conditions, the longer it takes to dry the soil, so be guided by this factor as well.
You can use the advice, or you can choose your own soil composition based on the capabilities and availability in stores. Don’t be afraid to experiment with making an earthen mixture yourself, the main thing is that the mixture meets the above requirements and conditions, and then the choice is yours.
Outwardly, adenium, of course, does not look like a rose, but it fully justifies its second name - it is one of the most beautiful flowers of the desert. Natural habitat Oman, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, as well as Central and Southern Africa. However, the “desert rose” is also very successfully cultivated in the humid tropics - Thailand, India, Malaysia, and the Philippines. It is there that enterprising producers experiment, crossbreed, develop new varieties and distribute adeniums to other countries and even to other continents.
Adenium is a slow-growing bush or small tree with a fleshy trunk that has a thickening at the base, the so-called caudex. Under natural conditions, adeniums grow up to 1.5-2 meters in height. On our window sills, of course, they cannot reach such a height - only 50-60 centimeters, if you believe the books.
The color and shape of the leaves varies depending on the type or variety of the plant. By the way, the question of systematization of Adenium remains open, since it is not clear whether to consider the genus monotypic or to distinguish regional forms in independent species. In the literature you may come across the following names: Adenium obesum, Adenium swazicum, Adenium arabicum, Adenium oleifolium, Adenium somalense, Adenium socotranum and Adenium multiflorum. They differ in their habitat and the characteristics of their cultivation, as well as the timing of the beginning of flowering.
The most common type on our window sills is Adenium obesum. It is also the earliest flowering and unpretentious. The leaves are most often green (oblong, round or slightly pointed at the ends), but they are also variegated, yellow, white and even red. At the same time, they can be shiny and glossy, or they can be dull or slightly pubescent. And the coloring of flowers through the efforts of breeders is simply amazing - from pure white to dark red and even burgundy with blue, while different varieties There may be all kinds of borders, strokes, stripes, etc. on the petals. However, keep in mind the following: the more extraordinary the “coloring” of the leaf, the more capricious the plant itself. Adeniums with variegated and colored leaves require maximum sun, grow more slowly, and often bloom reluctantly. There are, however, pleasant exceptions to the rules - for example, the variegated adenium Daang Nab Anant, which has already been tested on Russian window sills. It grows without problems and blooms readily. Thai manufacturers themselves praise it.
The size of flowers in Adenium obesum is on average 6-7 cm in diameter, but it can be smaller or larger. Flowering usually begins at the age of 1.5-2 years, and its duration ranges from 2-3 months to a year. Of course, a lot depends not only on the variety, but also on the conditions of detention.
We should not forget that adenium is a kutra plant, which means that all parts of the plant are poisonous. Some articles warn that “the juice is especially poisonous, which, penetrating through the skin, can cause intoxication. Signs of poisoning appear after 12-36 hours: malaise, dizziness, nausea, vomiting. To avoid poisoning, carry out all work with gloves, do not smoke, do not eat, etc.” After such serious warnings, questions often arise on forums: “I want to buy adenium, but how poisonous is it?” Poisonous, no doubt. But the same milkweed (euphorbia), for example, is poisonous to a greater extent. By the way, in Africa, some species of animals safely feed on the leaves and even branches of adeniums (I don’t recommend trying them - it’s bitter, so “a piece won’t go down your throat”). But seriously, I myself don’t use gloves when working with adeniums - it’s so uncomfortable for me. It also doesn’t even occur to me to snack on them. I just wash my hands thoroughly after work. If you have a wound on your hand or just feel safer with gloves, then no one is stopping you from using them.
What to plant adenium in
Adeniums need sufficient space for the root system. If the plant is young, it is advisable to replant more often, sometimes even twice a year, until the plants reach the desired size.
The material of the pot does not matter, the shape is much more important. It is better to use shallow, wide, round pots for planting, with plenty of drainage holes. For small plants, the pot can be taken deeper - the root system of adeniums develops quickly. But the color of the container matters. Since your adenium will always be in the sun, do not choose dark pots - they get very hot, which is not at all good for the roots.
Planned replanting is carried out at the beginning of the growing season, so that by autumn the substrate is completely absorbed by the roots. We don’t really need the extra risk of rotting from waterlogging. For the same reasons, if you bought a plant in the fall, choose a new pot that is the same or just a little larger.
If the roots of your adenium were damaged during transplantation, you should not water it for at least a week. If the weather is rainy, humid and cloudy, you can also not water after planting (or just a little). But if the plants are quite healthy and the weather is sunny and hot, start watering immediately, otherwise your pet will be offended and decide that he has entered a period of rest.
Soil for adenium
What soil mixture should I plant in? When this question came to me, I read a lot of recommendations, often advising the exact opposite. For example, some people allow the use of peat as a base, while others categorically do not recommend peat. The same applies to the use of sand in the mixture, even coarse sand (there is no talk about fine sand), although sand is a native element for succulents. We will not talk about such exotic ingredients as pieces of coconut peel, rice husks, lava stones, tree fern fibers, etc., added by manufacturers in Southeast Asia. Therefore, first about general requirements as soil for adeniums.
- It should be nutritious, loose and permeable.
- Acidity - from slightly acidic to neutral.
- The addition of crushed charcoal (or small pieces of it) and some fungicidal agent is very welcome (the easiest way to find Trichodermin in our stores).
Now in more detail point by point. Ideally, to please opponents of peat and sand, the earthen mixture for adenium should look like this: coconut fiber - 50%; deciduous humus soil - 20-30%; perlite 10-20%; small, up to 3 mm expanded clay 10-20%; charcoal.
However, it is not always possible to find coconut fiber; sometimes you don’t have perlite at hand; there is no time to get out for leaf soil under linden, birch or hazel trees... What to do? Buy a package of soil for succulents in the store and add to it what you need that you have on hand.
When we buy ready-made soil in a store, we, of course, automatically get both peat and sand in the soil mixture (adeniums, apparently, do not know that they do not like peat and sand, so they grow well and even bloom). But we simply have to improve the purchased mixture as much as possible. I consider charcoal and inert leavening agents - perlite and vermiculite - to be mandatory additives. Be careful with vermiculite, do not overdo it, because it is very moisture-intensive (perlite is preferable in this case). Instead of fine expanded clay, you can add broken bricks (you will have to work hard, the fractions must be small). By the way, the older the adenium, the more it is recommended to add to soil mixture expanded clay (or brick) - up to 70%.
What, you don’t even have a brick? Then the simplest, cheapest and most effective baking powder is fine polystyrene foam chips. You break off two pieces from some packaging container, rub them against each other and get a wonderful and completely free baking powder (it’s better to choose one with small fractions - it rubs better and is less electrified).
Lighting and watering
Adeniums need the maximum possible lighting in our conditions. The more sun the better. Of course, if the plant came to you in a parcel or was standing in a dark corner in the store, you should not immediately put it in the sun - gradually accustom it to good things. But always remember that in conditions middle zone In Russia there is never too much sun for adeniums. Even if the leaves burn out of habit after a cloudy winter, the plant will grow new foliage. But only in bright sun does the plant gain strength to bloom.
Some experts advise not to change the position of adeniums during the growth period, so that areas of the stem that were previously in the shade do not get burned. It is also recommended that in young specimens (less than 7-8 cm in thickness) in spring and autumn, when the sun is low, to protect the base of the stem, which is sensitive to burns. I in no way refute these tips, but I have never used them myself: I twist the plants around their axis and do not shade the stems of the seedlings with anything. Perhaps, if you live on a high floor and the sun persistently shines through your window from early morning until late evening, these tips will be relevant for you. Observe and draw your own conclusions.
The question “how often to water” depends, naturally, on the conditions and time of year. In general, it is recommended to water adeniums by completely soaking the earthen ball, and then allowing the substrate to dry thoroughly. But in the summer, during the active growing season, you can water more often - complete drying of the earthen clod during this period is not necessary or even undesirable, since the plant may stop growing. Of course, if the soil is constantly wet, adeniums can rot even in the warm season, so be vigilant and do not overdo it.
Feeding
Adeniums have a very positive attitude towards fertilizers. You can add slowly soluble, “long-lasting” fertilizers to the substrate or regularly feed it with a solution of organomineral fertilizer with an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Fertilizing is carried out during the growing season and flowering once or twice a month. If you want your pet to increase its vegetative mass, occasionally at the beginning of the season you can treat it to a “cocktail” with a high nitrogen content. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers promote flowering and strengthen the plant.
In spring and autumn, it is advisable to apply microfertilizers.
Wintering adeniums
Exactly this difficult time for our ward. Theoretically, a dormant period begins when the leaves completely or partially fall off, and watering should be greatly reduced. Why theoretically? Because the conditions on our windowsills are far from natural. In addition, some believe that for normal growth and abundant flowering of adeniums it is necessary to observe a period of rest, some say that this is desirable, and some say that it is not at all necessary. Let's figure it out.
The dormant period in some species of adenium can be complete (A. boehmianum and A. multiflorum) or partial, when shoot growth only stops (A. somalense), but the leaves are preserved. Some species bloom for the first time during dormancy (A. somalense, A. multiflorum), and if there is not enough light (and in our country in the fall and winter, of course, it is not enough), then flowering will not happen.
In nature, the resting period of adenium obesum (A. obesum) lasts several months. If you can keep it dry and cool, then so be it. But it’s often warm on our window sills (except for extreme winter days), therefore the dormant period in the culture will be very short, and the leaves may fall only partially or not at all. And if you also provide lighting, the plant can even bloom, although the usual flowering time for adeniums in our latitudes is summer and early autumn.
This is what the “change of seasons” looks like in practice for adeniums on window sills. In spring and summer, the temperature ranges from 22 to 35°C (adeniums like it best around 30°C). With decreasing daylight hours and a drop in temperature to 16-20°C, growth slows down. In this case, some of the foliage may turn yellow and fall off (adenium itself tells you that it wants to rest). At this time, you should significantly reduce watering and stop fertilizing. At temperatures below 15°C, adeniums begin a dormant period. IN winter time It is recommended to keep it at a temperature of 10-15°C. Please note that the temperature should not fall below 10°C. Adult adeniums can withstand a temperature drop of up to + 4°C with an absolutely dry earthen coma, but it is better not to risk it. If the apartment is warm even in winter, do not stop watering. Of course, you need to water less than in summer, but how much less - only you can determine for yourself, focusing on the temperature on your windowsill. Take into account the age of your adenium - an adult plant will withstand at 10-15°C for a long time without watering at all, but hardly a seedling.
And another important point. The first watering after a long dry period can be very dangerous - the plant has completely fallen asleep, all processes have slowed down, and here we are with our “care”. Even a small amount of water can be fatal for an unawakened adenium. I ruined two strong seedlings in this way: I didn’t water for a long time because it was very cold, and then I “regretted it.” The result was disastrous. The conclusion regarding winter maintenance was as follows:
- seedlings should be watered moderately but regularly in winter;
- large plants should also be watered (even adenium that has lost all its leaves can be watered about once a month);
- if the conditions were 10-15°C and no watering at all, then it is important to determine the end of the dormant period. To do this, in the spring you need to move the plant to a bright place and carefully monitor the awakening of the buds. Start watering after 2-3 weeks, when the plant wakes up, and increase it gradually when active growth begins.
Attention: sometimes adenium leaves turn yellow and fall off after flowering, errors in care or a sudden change in weather. If the plant continues to produce new leaves, then do not confuse this with the onset of a dormant period and continue to water.
Pests and diseases
It is very interesting to read in some sources that “adeniums have practically no pests, maybe only a random scale insect will attack the leaves...” So, is the scale insect not a pest? And somehow I missed a tick on the adeniums I received from Thailand (they were practically without leaves, well, where can I place the tick, especially since adeniums have “virtually no pests?”). I hatched it for almost six months!
So keep in mind: despite their toxicity, adeniums are damaged by insects (mealybugs, mites, etc.). Control measures are generally accepted. My adeniums were quite loyal to such common drugs as Fitoverm and Actellik. If you have to fight pests with some new means, it is better to try it first on one, least valuable specimen.
But the main enemy of adeniums is. We do not allow flooding or stagnation of water! We correctly compose the earthen mixture with the obligatory layer of drainage in the pot! When the temperature drops below 20°C and insufficient lighting We significantly reduce watering!
Reproduction
Adeniums reproduce in almost all possible ways in plants, and each method has its pros and cons.
Adenium from seeds
If it is useless to look for adenium in your stores, the easiest way is to order seeds online. Pros: exactly when seed propagation the plant quickly forms a “butt”, that is, a caudex. Cons: varietal characteristics may not be preserved, that is, there is no guarantee that you will receive exactly the color and size that you saw in the photo.
Naturally sow better in spring or at the beginning of summer, so that the seedlings have time to grow before winter, although practice has shown that even in January the seeds germinate quite successfully. Please note that adenium seeds lose their viability quite quickly, so it is better not to delay sowing. As a last resort, in autumn and winter you can provide additional lighting for your seedlings.
The substrate must be breathable and only slightly damp, never wet! It can be made from sand, perlite and crushed charcoal. You can also germinate in vermiculite, but then you need to be even more careful with moisture. The mixture should be neutral (an acidic substrate prevents germination, so peat is not used).
Before sowing, it is recommended to soak the seeds for two hours (no longer necessary!) in a warm, humid environment. Some people advise treating the seeds with a fungicide, others say that adeniums don’t like this... I soaked the seeds in a solution (more correctly, “suspension”) of crushed coal - I took ordinary settled water, added coal to it with a generous hand, and stirred , threw seeds into it - and into a warm place.
Then we slightly deepen the seeds into the prepared substrate (we place them horizontally so as not to mix up the top and bottom), cover them and place them in a warm, bright place. Don't forget to ventilate our greenhouse regularly!
Seeds should be germinated at a temperature not lower than 24° (and preferably 28-35°C). If you like the seeds, they will germinate in 3-15 days. But if kept cool below 22-24°C and (or) the substrate is too wet, alas, they can rot.
At first, the seedlings are protected from direct sun rays, drafts and temperature drops below 18°C. When real leaves are formed (1st pair), we gradually begin to accustom them to the sun, and with the appearance of the second pair, we plant them in separate containers. Pots with a diameter of 5-6 cm are suitable for two to three month old adeniums.
Reproduction by air layering, cuttings
This is one of the most effective ways(can be applied to shoots at least 2 cm in diameter). It is better to make layering during the active growing season. The technique is usual for such events - clean sharp knife make a circular incision, dry the wound, treat it with a root formation stimulator, cover the incision with damp sphagnum and wrap in opaque cellophane or other suitable material (secure with wire or elastic tape). Moisten the moss regularly. After a month, roots form on the shoot - now you can finally separate the cuttings and plant them.
But cuttings of adeniums are not always successful, since the cuttings easily rot. The cutting should be at least 10 cm long; the cut should be well dried and treated with crushed charcoal. Substrate for rooting - any permeable one.
The disadvantages of layering and cuttings include the fact that the caudex is either completely absent or is formed much later than in plants obtained from seeds.
Adenium grafting
Adeniums can be grafted onto oleander and onto adenium itself. The second option has become widespread - it is very convenient if you want to get a plant with a large caudex and specific varietal flowers or leaves. You can buy adenium with three or even five different vaccinations - a whole white-pink-red bouquet on one “butt”.
The grafting technique is standard, as is the care of the grafted plant (it should be protected from direct sunlight until the scion begins to actively grow, and sprouts emerging from the rootstock should be removed in a timely manner).
Formation of the crown and caudex
Adeniums sometimes begin to branch at a young age, but more often this occurs after flowering or when the caudex is large enough. However, adenium growers do not wait for “mercy from nature” and pinch their seedlings to get a well-branched plant. This should be done before intensive growth begins, that is, at the end of winter or in early spring. And don’t overdo it - if you cut the main trunk too low, a lot of thin branches (“broom”) will creep up, which is considered unsightly for adenium. In mature plants, branches can also be pruned or removed.
The caudex forms itself with age. If the simple bottle shape is not to your taste, you can try forming a caudex unusual shapes. Each time you replant, lift the plant a few centimeters above the soil level, exposing some of the roots - underground they are very intricately intertwined. You can lay your seedling on its side, fixing it in this position - the branches will still stretch upward, and the caudex will gradually get used to it, and you will get an unusual “fallen tree”. You can generally study the bonsai technique and apply some of its techniques to form an interesting trunk.
Photographs of Mila and
Planting substrate
The second rule of adenium grower is to use a loose, breathable and sterile substrate.
There are a lot of recipes for mixtures for planting adeniums (not to be confused with sowing, we read about the sowing substrate). Basically, they differ in certain “fossils” that can be mined in the grower’s place of residence. But no matter how different the components are, in the end all mixtures must meet the following properties in terms of properties: breathability, friability and, as a result, quick drying.
1. There are many leavening agents; there is no need to use all of them in one mixture. Therefore, next to each name the approximate maximum addition to the mixture is indicated:
Perlite 50% (5)
- vermiculite 20% (preferably large (6))
- 10-20% (4)
- expanded clay chips 25%
- brick chips 20% (3)
- foam balls 25%
- 20% (river(1)
, quartz(2)
, but not construction)
- small pieces of charcoal 10-15%, maximum 20%
- 30%
2. When composing the mixture, consider the properties of the pot. If it is plastic or glazed ceramics, then it is better not to get carried away with adding vermiculite - in such pots the moisture is retained longer, and this is also aggravated by vermiculite. Conversely, if you use air- and water-permeable clay pots, then the content of vermiculite will be quite justified. Read more in the topic “Choosing a pot”.
3. The same applies to climatic conditions. The cooler the conditions, the slower the soil dries out, which means it is better not to add moisture-retaining components to it. In hot climates the situation is the opposite. So focus on the properties of the components and try them on for your climatic conditions.
4. Make sure the mixture is safe.Used as a natural antiseptic . There is a separate topic on disinfection methods"Disinfection of substrate and drainage".
5. When planting adenium, drainage of several centimeters is required. Suitable examples include pieces of polystyrene foam, brick chips, pieces of charcoal (permissible for seedlings, but not recommended for young and especially adult plants). Do not use pebbles or other cold-conducting materials - cold causes rotting of the roots.
6. When researching information for articles, I noticed that some people confuse soil looseness with moisture capacity. This is probably why some beginners try to mix soil-based substrate for epiphytes. Such a choice can result in nothing less than death for adenium, especially if moss is present in the mixture. And it's not even that it decomposes. Firstly, moss is too moisture-absorbing (some types absorb 20 times their own weight in moisture!), and secondly, it is acidic.
Adenium is not an epiphyte. He's a succulent. And epiphytes and succulents stand on opposite sides of the floral galaxy. Adeniums need loose soil. Moisture-intensive absorbs water and retains it, but the substrate needs to dry out in 2-3 days.
I won’t tell you about the delights of overseas adenium growers; it’s better to go straight to the mixtures whose ingredients are available in our area.
PLANTING MIXTURE.
1. Based on shredded coconut fiber(, coconut disc, cocopit, cocopet and coco-peat).
Compound:
60% coconut fiber + 40% rippers or 50% to 50%.
One of best mixtures for growing adeniums, so it makes sense to give a few sample recipes.
50% coconut fiber, 30% perlite, 10% expanded clay, 10% charcoal - suitable for cool climates and for pourers.
50% coir, 20% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 10% charcoal (or other leavening agent) - suitable for hot climates and dryers.
60% coconut fiber, 15% vermiculite, 15% charcoal, 10% sand (or other baking powder) - if there is no perlite.
50% coconut fiber, 20% perlite, 10% vermiculite, 10% sand, 10% charcoal, (or other baking powder) - a multi-component mixture.
2. Based on peat soil.
Compound:
60% peat soil + 40% rippers or 50% to 50%. In very extreme cases, you can use 100% peat soil, but then mistakes in watering are unacceptable. Still, try to add some baking powder.
Blend option:
by analogy with the previous one.
Peat soil is suitable for “For cacti and succulents”, “Universal”. The acidity is neutral, which excludes the use of soils with high acidity, for example, for azaleas or low acidity.
3. Peat-based (not recommended option).
Compound:
50% peat + 50% rippers. If there is no other way out, then as a last resort you can use peat as a base. The main disadvantage of high-moor peat is increased acidity, while low-lying peat is low.
4. Gravel mixture.
This mixture does not contain soil and therefore gives a special specificity for growing adenium, which is not suitable for everyone. As part of such a mixture, it is highly recommended to use it, which is capable of retaining moisture and nutrients.
I will only note that seedlings, as a rule, are not grown in a gravel mixture (this is due to the growth of the root mass in the first year of growth), only at the age of a young plant do they begin a gradual transition to soilless maintenance.
These were universal tips on soil composition. You can use them, or you can make changes to the mixture, adapting it to your specific conditions. To do this, you need to know why this or that ingredient is needed in the mixture.
Let's take a closer look at them. Afterwards, you can independently vary their percentage or find a replacement for them, based on the availability of fillers.
SUBSTRATES.
1.
- These are coconut shell fibers. It is crushed and pressed into briquettes.
The content in the mixture is 50-70%.
I was very fond of flower growers who tried it, and I join their number. Soft, airy, one might say, fluffy coconut substrate is great for flower mixtures generally. And if we talk about adenium, then the mixture based on it is one of the best.
Externally, coconut fiber is similar to peat, but only in appearance. Coco-peat, unlike peat, is pH neutral. Another advantage is that it easily absorbs water after drying.
Advantages:
It has good, but not excessive water-holding capacity.
Does not have “diseases” of the earth, because there is no pathogenic environment.
In dry form it can be used as mulch.
When it dries out and then waters, it quickly and evenly restores moisture, which compares favorably with peat, which is difficult to moisturize after drying out.
The porous structure has a beneficial effect on the roots of the plant, which promotes intensive root formation.
Can be used repeatedly.
pH neutral.
Flaws:one is the absence in most flower shops.
There are several types of coconut briquettes with different fiber lengths. We are interested in the one that, when swelling, vaguely resembles finely chopped tea leaves or cigarette tobacco.
I use “Grow Up” coconut briquettes, made in India, but in our own packaging.
I saw briquettes online that looked like large compressed sawdust as in the photo. I’m not sure that these are suitable as the main component, especially for seeds and seedlings, but as a cultivator they are quite suitable. There are also long-fiber briquettes that make coconut sponge. Like these ones unsuitable exactly.
2. Peat soil- a mixture of peat (usually high-moor, sometimes high-moor and low-lying) and plant soil (the upper part of the fertile soil layer).
Advantages: light, fluffy, contains nutrients. If the planting is not crowded, young seedlings do not need to be replanted for a long time.
Flaws: purchased soils are non-sterile. It is imperative to disinfect the mixture, since there is a possibility of developing a pathogenic environment.
Common brands include “Terra vita” (+50% rippers), “Garden of Miracles” (+50% rippers), “GreenWorld” (you can get by with 40% rippers).
Where to get it: V flower shops.
3. Peat- distinguish between upland and lowland.
Contents in the mixture: up to 50%.
High peat
- remains of mosses, wild rosemary, cotton grass.
Properties: air and water permeability, moisture capacity up to 1200%, high acidity, high thermal capacity.
Advantages: does not contain weed seeds, pests or pathogens. Cheap.
The main disadvantages for adenium farming: increased acidity and moisture capacity.
Lowland peat
- rotted plant and wood residues.
Properties: low thermal capacity. It is more fertile than upland and has low acidity, which, like high acidity, negatively affects the growth of adenium.
Where to get it: in flower shops.
