Currant planting care and cultivation. Currants: planting and care, pruning and propagation

Currant is a berry bush from the gooseberry family, medium height(20-40 cm) with characteristic leaves. Currant belongs to fast growing shrubs and begins to bear fruit a year after planting.

Its lifespan is 20 years for red currants and 15 years for black currants, however, the shrub is able to multiply quickly. The main types of currants are black and red, differing in the color of the berries and the characteristic smell inherent in black currants, due to the content of essential oils in it. However, there are also other varieties: yellow currant, bred on the American continent, white currant and many crossed species.

Breeders have bred up to 700 species different varieties berries that are resistant to pests and diseases, resistant to powdery mildew, spotting, resistance to spring frosts and increased productivity, which allows it to be bred in different regions on the territory of the Russian Federation.

Currants have mass useful qualities, which determines the use of the berry itself, its leaves, and twigs for:

1. Improves the elasticity of the vascular system.
2. Decrease in blood sugar concentration.
3. Treatment of dermatitis and eye diseases.
4. Therapy of atherosclerosis, lowering blood pressure; increasing the strength of the capillaries of the circulatory system.
5. Treatment of throat and cough diseases.
6. Therapy of colds and infectious diseases.
7. Treatment of inflammation in the urinary canal area and as a diuretic.

How to properly plant currants in open ground

In general, the shrub is quite unpretentious to its growing conditions, however, to obtain a high yield with the best vitamin and nutritional characteristics, it is necessary to follow a number of rules.

The shrub is sensitive to the water-air growth regime, since the length of its roots, up to 50 cm, is located in the upper layer of soil and cannot consume moisture from the deeper layers of the soil. This must be taken into account when choosing a planting site, since soil that is too wet is dangerous factor, and too dry requires frequent watering.

1. Site selection and soil preparation

The best conditions for growing currants are considered to be a well-lit area of ​​soil, representing a lowland, slope or hill with an average degree of moisture. The degree of illumination is determined by how long during the day the currant is exposed to direct sunlight.

Shrub lighting duration sun rays should be at least half a day for black currants; for red - at least 2/3 of the day.

The measure of site moisture is assessed by the level of groundwater in a nearby well, which should be no higher than 0.5-1 m. The requirements for soil acidity are also clearly regulated; soils of neutral and slightly acidic reactions are selected for it. It is best to place currants in a place of some elevation of the relief, containing up to 0.5 m of fertile layer with protection from both direct impact wind currents and air stagnation.

2. Choosing the landing time

The shrub can be planted in the spring from the onset of warm weather until the buds open using cuttings or grown layering and in the fall in September-October. The autumn planting method is considered the best, since its use creates best conditions the survival rate of the plant and its emergence into the phase of rapid development at the beginning of spring.

3. Soil treatment and preparation

It is better to plant shrubs at a distance of 1 m from neighboring bushes and at a distance of 1.5-2 m and 3-4 m from other shrubs and fruit trees. The required number of shrubs for planting is determined from the condition that when usual care currants yield from 2 to 3 kg per bush.

4. Soil for currants and fertilizer

As planting material It is better to choose seedlings 15-20 cm long with a well-branched root system and no signs of pests and diseases. The dimensions of the planting hole are 40*40*40 cm; it is better to dig the hole either a few weeks before planting or in the fall of the previous year to create the necessary soil settlement.

It is necessary to prepare two layers of soil for planting a bush:

1. The first consists of earth dug out of a hole, mixed with peat, compost or fertilizers with the addition of small doses of mineral additives and has high biological value; serves to feed the roots, located below them in level.
2. The second also consists of fertile soil removed from the pit without fertilizers.

5. The process of planting in open ground

Holding the bush with one hand, place it above the first layer of soil, so that the roots feel free. Next, sprinkle with a second layer of soil, taking into account that the bush should protrude above the surface. The planted bush is watered abundantly, even if planting is done on a rainy day.

A tree trunk circle with a diameter of 40-50 cm is formed around the planted bush, a layer of mulch, peat or sawdust is added without affecting the planting itself.

After planting, the currant bush is pruned to a level of 7 cm above the ground. This measure is necessary to bring the above-ground part of the plant into line with the root system.

Caring for currants 1. Watering

The shrub is characterized by a fairly high moisture consumption, for which it competes, spending the energy necessary to form a crop. For adult bushes, the maximum moisture consumption occurs during the growth of shoots, during the formation of berries (June) and after harvesting to store moisture for the formation of the next harvest (September).

It is important to provide a sufficient amount of moisture during this period, since otherwise the berries will be small and unripe berries will shed.

To reduce the impact of periods of drought on currants, it is necessary to maintain them by watering them with 1.5-2 buckets of water per bush. It is also necessary to take measures to retain moisture in the soil, for which a layer of mulch, up to 10 cm thick, consisting of fallen leaves, weeded weeds, and finely chopped thin twigs, is applied around the circumference under the bush.

2. Feeding

If the shrub is planted correctly, fertilizing in the form of fertilizers is not required for several years. Further nutrition is carried out by adding 4-5 kg ​​of fertilizers or peat and 40 g of complex mineral fertilizers, superphosphate (100-150 g) and calcium chloride (30-40 g) under the bush early spring or in the fall before loosening.

In the absence of plant nutrition, the berries become small over time and contain fewer nutrients.

3. Currant pruning

The best time for pruning shrubs is considered to be late autumn, after leaf fall, when diseased and damaged shoots are clearly visible. Pruning for currant bushes begins with removing old and damaged sprouts at ground level and covering them with a special decoction.

The next stage of pruning is the removal of young, poorly developed or disease-damaged branches. Next, the bush is thinned out by removing from 15 to 30% of shoots of different ages to direct moisture and nutrients not on the growth of young branches, but on the formation of a crop on mature cuttings. Ideally, after pruning, the bush should have 12-15 healthy shoots of various ages.

When pruning, it is necessary to take into account that excessive spreading of the bush is inconvenient and causes contamination of the berries during bad weather. To give the planting a well-groomed and cultivated appearance, supports are made, trellises and stretched twine are used. However, the “selected” bush should not be overly tight to avoid damage to the branches and disruption of sap flow.

4. Transplant

Transplantation is carried out in cases where it is necessary to rejuvenate currants, there is a lack of necessary nutrients for the growth and development of the plantation at the site of previous growth, or the need to plant rooted young shoots, layering or cuttings. The rules for replanting in terms of timing, soil selection, watering and fertilizing do not differ from regular planting.

5. Diseases and pests

1. American powdery mildew, which poses a danger to young leaves and shoots of black currant, manifested in the appearance of plaque on their surface white, the leaves weaken, darken and become deformed. Treatment is carried out by removing and burning the affected leaves and shoots and autumn processing Topaz.
2. Anthracosis and septoriasis are two types of disease caused by the action of a fungus, resulting in the formation of dark and brown spots on the surface of the leaves, which later turn into a brown tint. The affected shrub is more susceptible to frost and is characterized by decreased yield and early leaf fall. Treatment is carried out by removing leaves and embedding them in the soil; it is recommended to treat the plant with copper-based preparations before buds open, before and after flowering.
3. Terry is manifested in the deformation of young leaves, their acquisition of an elongated shape with a further deterioration in the appearance of the flowers, the appearance of terry and the death of the bush. The affected bush must be dug up and burned.
4. The bud mite manifests itself in severe swelling of the buds, which, together with adjacent branches, are removed and burned before the bush enters the budding stage. The remaining bush before and immediately after flowering is sprayed with Actellik; if there is no effect, the bush must be dug up and burned.
5. Currant glass damages currant branches, which is externally manifested in their lethargy, drying out and increased fragility. Damage to a currant by glass can be diagnosed by examining a cross section of a branch. In case of damage, there are quite wide passages-voids of a dark color. After the disease is detected, all affected shoots are removed and burned; after flowering, the bush is treated with Actellik.
6. Gooseberry shoot aphids manifest themselves in the fact that aphid larvae born during the period of swelling of the buds attack young shoots and leaves, sucking the juices out of them. Damage by aphids leads to changes in the shape of leaves, increasing the risk of damage during wintering by cold. To treat the disease, the shrub is treated with Actellik during bud break.
7. Red-headed aphids manifest themselves in the appearance of swollen leaves on the affected areas. The fight against aphids consists of treating currants with Actellik before the formation of buds, after flowering and in August-September.

Seasonal care and planting

Caring for shrubs includes periodically loosening the root area throughout the season. To control weeds, insecticides, manual weeding and mulching are used. Weed control is carried out twice a year in the fall, after harvesting, or in the spring along with the application of fertilizers. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm using a fork, shovel or hoe.

During the growing season, it is necessary to carefully monitor the opening of the buds, where a sign of their damage by the mite will be their swelling, but lack of opening. If more than 3 buds are affected by the pest, the entire branch is removed. Throughout the season, it is necessary to spray the bush 2-3 times with a 1-2% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Reproduction

Using cuttings, which are prepared as follows. A bush shoot with a thickness of more than 7 mm and a length of 20 cm, containing at least 4-6 buds on its body, is cut off on both sides. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45°, the upper one should have a right angle, then the cutting is placed in a container with water overnight.

Then the cuttings are planted in the soil, maintaining a distance of 10-15 cm between them, so that at least 3-4 buds remain above the ground surface. The soil around the planted cuttings is watered, compacted and mulched with peat or compost to a depth of 4-5 cm. This method of propagating shrubs is well suited for the formation of hedges.

Using horizontal layering performed in the spring, during the period of soil ripeness. The soil near the planting should be loose and provided with fertilizers. Young, healthy currant branches are buried in previously prepared furrows 5-7 cm deep.

The young vertical shoots that appear after a while, 6-8 cm high from the ground level, are loosened and hilled with a mixture of earth and humus, every 2-3 weeks. In the fall, the rooted cuttings are transplanted, carefully separated from the planting and replanted.

Answers to frequently asked questions

1. When placing currants in place with a predecessor of vegetable and flower plants, the planting will be provided with nutrients for a sufficiently long time and will bear fruit better, since it will be located on undepleted soils.
2. It is not recommended to plant shrubs in the place where gooseberries or currants were previously grown, since soils can become tired of monoculture within a few years and accumulate toxins.
3. For more active pollination of currants by insects, it is recommended to spray during the flowering period with a solution of 1 liter of water with 1 tbsp. l honey.
4. It is recommended to plant currants in groups of bushes next to each other, rather than individual bushes, since in the first case better pollination of the bushes is ensured, which increases their fertility.

Magnificent blackcurrant harvest thanks to proper planting and care

Currants - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds open; in this case, the soil may not have time to warm up sufficiently and the plant will die.

Choose for currants sunny place, protected from the wind with well-drained, non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5). Fertile, light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the soil, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 square meter. m.

Deoxidation of land for planting currants with dolomite flour

Currants are propagated using cuttings or by dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Growing black currants will be successful if you choose two-year-old seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long; they take root best. Let's look at how to plant currants step by step.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, weed rhizomes are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the area is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm. The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planted in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the hole is filled with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currants

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of root buds and further development powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, the bush will form as a single-stem bush.

Currant seedling planting scheme

Planting currants is completed by watering 5 liters of water per hole and another 5 liters per circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm deep - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

Having completed the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. Cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, watered with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with film or a plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates intensive plant growth.

Scheme for pruning currant seedlings after planting

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called planting or simply breeding. It is performed after fruiting has completed: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Blackcurrant: cultivation and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to ensure proper care of black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currants

Before the buds appear, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut back to a healthy stem, and the wounds are covered with garden varnish. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After fertilizing, the soil is dug up and watered.

Sanitary pruning of currants

At the time of formation of the ovary, until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. Do this in the evening using warm water(10-15 degrees Celsius), at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Watering a young currant bush in spring

To improve soil moisture resistance, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspaper. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Caring for currants in summer

In the first half of June, organic fertilizing should be done: up to 15 kg of humus per bush, or liquid fertilizing (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When for a long time there is no rain, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water per week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from the end of June to mid-July during the ripening of the berries, and is done once every 5 days.

Caring for currants in June also includes pinching the tops of young stems into 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of pinching is also postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During fruit ripening, apply outside root feeding: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of iron sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately and then mix together in a 10 liter bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

Spraying and caring for currants in summer

The berries must be harvested individually and not picked in bunches. This way there is less chance of damaging the plant. Watering and fertilizing are completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Caring for currant bushes in autumn

Having completed the harvest, starting from mid-August and throughout September, watering is done once a week, loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to add organic matter (4-6 kg of bird droppings), or feed with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when applying fertilizer, add 200 g of wood ash. Afterwards, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting next year.

Fertilizing currant bushes with organic matter

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots of different years of life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

Moth caterpillars on a currant leaf

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered hot water temperature plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of bushes to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: ​​Alirin-B, Gamair, Forecast, Topaz, Glycoladine - against rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of bud mites on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of blackcurrants includes preparation for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and fallen leaves are removed.

Scheme for tying a currant bush for the winter

After the first frost, the bush is pulled upward in a spiral with a rope, clamping it at the top with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls, a snow cushion 10 cm high is made at the base of the bush, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Bottom line

Growing currants on the plot will only bring pleasure, since the crop is not demanding and bears excellent fruit. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant so that you always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then black currants, which are cared for according to all the rules, will reward you with a magnificent harvest and large berries.

Species berry bushes, found on summer cottages, a lot. But in the list of preferences of their owners, black currant is in first place: planting it, as well as caring for plants, does not cause difficulties, it is not afraid of harsh winters, begins to bear fruit early and thanks the owner for years of care. generous harvests. It is easy to propagate, and it can be done in different ways. And everyone knows about the benefits of its berries and leaves.

Soil and lighting requirements

Black currant is one of the most viable crops. It can grow almost anywhere. On sand, in dense shade or in flooded lowlands, its bushes will turn out less lush, but even in such conditions they will not die. The plant will be most comfortable in areas exposed to sunlight with moderately moist soil, protected from wind and drafts.

Shrubs are also planted in light partial shade. But in this case, expectations about the harvest should be lowered: the lack of light will make the blackcurrant berries more sour and reduce their quantity. Their appearance will help you understand whether the chosen location is suitable for the plants. In favorable conditions, they branch well, and their leaves are richly colored and look healthy.

Planting currants in fertile, loose soil will be productive. It should freely allow air to pass to the plant roots and retain moisture. The ideal option for shrubs would be light loam. In dense soil, its development will slow down and the yield will decrease. It is important to take into account the soil reaction. It should be slightly alkaline or neutral. Currants do not like acidic soil. Such soil will have to be limed before planting.

The crop is moisture-loving, but grows and bears fruit poorly in marshy soil. It is best to plant shrubs on gentle slopes. It would be unsuccessful to place it in closed lowlands or on sand, as well as on lawns. The distance to groundwater should be at least 0.5-1 m.

Planting dates and scheme

Black currants are planted in spring and autumn. Basically, summer residents prefer the second option. Bushes placed in plots in the spring begin to grow quickly, so it is more difficult for them to take root. There is one trick in which planting black currants at this time will be successful. For this you need to choose plants whose root systems are closed. They take root easier and faster in open ground if they are watered abundantly. They can be placed in summer cottages at almost any time.

Autumn planting in conditions middle zone Usually held in early October, at the latest in the middle of the month. Under the weight of snow, the ground around the currant bushes will naturally compact. In the spring they will wake up early and show rapid growth.

Planting blackcurrants in a row has already become a tradition. This placement makes it easier to care for its bushes and saves space. 1-1.25 m are left between neighboring plants. Some gardeners increase this distance to 2 m. It is important to take into account the proximity of other shrubs and trees when planting. The distance from the former is at least 1.5-2 m, from the latter – 3-4 m. Currants grow quickly. When only 3-4 years have passed, the seemingly bare area will be unrecognizable.

If you want to get the harvest earlier, you can leave it between the bushes less space(70-80 cm). When planted densely, they will begin to bear fruit after 2-3 years, but they produce fewer berries and will age faster.

When deciding to place currants near a fence or walls of buildings, you need to leave enough space for them. Minimum distance to them – 1.2 m. It will not be possible to harvest from branches pressed against the fence.

Selection of seedlings and site preparation

Preparing a place in the country for currant bushes will not take much time. If this area was previously used for growing vegetable or flower crops, they simply dig it up well, going 1 spade deep and removing the roots of perennial weeds from the soil. Deep depressions or holes are filled with soil, carefully leveling the surface.

Planting blackcurrants correctly means taking into account the peculiarities of crop rotation. To ensure that the plants have enough nutrients and are less sick, the crop is returned to its original site only after 3 years. The same recommendation is followed if there were previously gooseberry bushes at the planting site.

For those who don't have time to wait, there are 2 options:

1. find another site;
2. retreat from the old one at least 1 m.

When choosing a seedling, it is carefully examined. A viable plant has woody and branched roots. 3-5 of them should be skeletal and reach a length of at least 15-20 cm. A high-quality seedling has 1-2 (or more) 30-40 cm branches. The plant should look fresh and free of signs of infection and pests.

Pay attention to the specific characteristics of the variety:

• its suitability to the climate of the area;
• presence of immunity to diseases;
• frost resistance.

The harvest will be more abundant and the berries will be larger if you plant several varieties of crops at your dacha. This rule applies even to self-fertile blackcurrant species. Planting plants in areas with different terms flowering. This way, even in a cold spring, it will be possible to get a harvest from at least several bushes.

How to plant currants correctly

Planting currants begins with preparing the hole. It is usually made shallow (35-40 cm) and wide (50-60 cm in diameter). If the soil at the dacha is poor, the size of the hole is increased so that it can be filled with nutritious substrate. Lay it out in 2 layers. Fertile soil is poured onto the bottom, adding the following components to it:

• compost;
• rotted manure (you can use peat instead);
• wood ash or potassium sulfate;
• superphosphate.

This mixture fills approximately ¾ of the pit volume. It should be under the roots of the seedling. The rest of the hole will be occupied by simple fertile soil without fertilizers. Sprinkling it nutrient substrate, start planting the plant.

Its roots are examined. If damaged or dry areas are identified, they are cut back to healthy tissue. If planted correctly, the bush will be 5 cm lower than the mark at which it grew before. The root collar should be underground (at a distance of 6-8 cm from the surface). This will give impetus to the intensive formation of root buds, and the bush will grow lush.

The next step is abundant watering. ½ bucket of water is added into the pit itself and the same amount into the hole, which is made at the planting site. Then the soil under the bushes is mulched without covering the plants themselves.

You can use the following as mulch:

• peat;
• compost;
• straw;
• sawdust.

Recommended thickness of the mulch layer from organic materials– 5-8 cm. If they are not at hand, use dry soil. It is poured over thin layer(1-2 cm). Planting is completed by pruning the plant. All that is left of it is a stump, which should rise 7 cm above the soil surface. Do not spare the seedling. Next year it will turn into a small but branched bush. Without pruning, you will have to wait a season longer for this.

Soil treatment and watering

Legends can be made about the unpretentiousness of black currants. But so that the plantings do not become overgrown and the yield does not fall, you will still have to take care of them. The shrub does not like being around weeds. They are its main competitors in the fight for moisture and nutrients. Currants feel best in soil that is clear of any other plants.

It is impossible to spray herbicides near currant plantations, so there are 2 ways to remove weeds:

1. weeding;
2. mulching.

“General cleaning” of competing plants is carried out twice per season: in the spring, when fertilizers have already been applied, and in the summer, when the last berries are collected.

Black currant responds well to loosening the soil. Any garden tools can be used for it: a hoe, a shovel, a pitchfork. Near the root collar, the soil is cultivated to a depth of 6-8 cm. Under the bushes, loosening is made more intense, affecting a 10-12 cm layer of soil. If the tree trunk circle is mulched, the soil remains moist longer and the frequency of loosening is reduced.

The roots of the shrub are located shallowly - only 50 cm from the soil surface. Therefore, currants cannot go without watering for a long time. Seedlings and young bushes especially suffer from lack of water. Adult plants need regular moisture in June, when their shoots are actively growing and berries are filling, and in late summer and early autumn, when flower buds for the next season are being formed. Drying out the soil during this period will lead to shedding of unripe berries and crushing of the remaining ones. It will also have a negative impact on next year’s harvest.

If the summer turns out to be dry, water the plantings often (every 7-10 days) and abundantly. Each plant spends 1.5-2 buckets of water. It is more convenient to water in grooves. They are dug up around the bush, retreating 20-25 cm from the tips of its shoots. If it rains periodically, 4-5 waterings per season will be enough for adult plants. Loves currants and leaf sprays. On hot days it is better to do them more often.

Feeding

At proper preparation planting holes, growing black currants on the site in the first 2 years does not require fertilizing. When this milestone is passed, the plants will have to be fertilized annually. Some summer residents feed their plantings less often - once every 2 years. Currants respond equally well to mineral and organic compounds. They are introduced mainly in autumn or early spring. Having scattered humus or compost (4-5 kg ​​per plant) and complex mineral fertilizer (about 40 g) under the bushes, loosen the soil.

Towards the end of spring (but before the beginning of summer), when the currant bushes enter the active growth phase, another root feeding is carried out. To do this, it is good to use one of the following tools:

• manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8;
• solution of bird droppings (1 part fertilizer to 10 parts water);
• herbal infusion.

The nutritional composition is poured into the grooves, immediately sprinkled with them. Each plant takes 1.5-2 buckets. Applying complex mineral fertilizer at this stage will be less useful, but you can also use it.

At the beginning of flowering, currant bushes are watered with infused potato peels. The starch it contains will increase plant productivity. Prepare a solution from dried potato peelings. They are added to boiling water (in a ratio of 1:10), covered with a lid and, having wrapped the container well, left to cool completely. For each currant bush, 1 liter of the resulting composition is used.

In September, plantings are fed with phosphorus-potassium preparations. They will help plants survive the winter with minimal damage.

Trimming

Growing black currants in the country requires regular pruning. It is most convenient to carry them out in the fall, when the bush is completely exposed, exposing old and extra branches. Young (under 5 years old) shoots are left on an adult plant. Old branches are cut off strictly at soil level, leaving no stumps. The wound is treated with garden varnish.

Young shoots are disposed of only in extreme cases - if they:

• injured;
• sick;
• poorly developed;
• thicken the bush.

Young plants also need pruning. In the first years of life, the bush is formed in a permanent place by shortening its shoots to 10-15 cm. After the procedure, there should be from 2 to 4 developed buds left on them. Next year they get rid of small shoots, simultaneously removing weak branches. The skeleton of the bush begins to form, leaving a maximum of 4 well-developed shoots of zero order.

After another year, the main attention is paid to first-order branches. Of these, the 5 most powerful ones are kept on the plant, and the rest are removed. By the age of 4-5 years, the currant bush should have 15-20 skeletal branches. In the future, the gardener’s task becomes their sanitary and rejuvenating pruning, which is carried out annually.

Supports and preparation for winter

Many varieties of currant bushes grow spreading. This makes it difficult to care for them and leads to the fact that part of the crop ends up stained in the ground. It is convenient to place supports under such bushes. You can buy ready-made ones in stores or make them yourself. The easiest option is to drive stakes around the plant and tie the branches with twine. But here it is important not to overdo it. Currant shoots should not press against each other. It is correct if there is a lot of free space between them.

After autumn feeding plantings are being spudded. If the soil in the area is heavy, it is better to dig it to a shallow depth without breaking up the lumps. This will retain more moisture in the ground. Light and loose soil in tree trunk circles can simply be well loosened by 5-8 cm. But you can’t do without digging up the row spacing (10-12 cm). Watering is also required at this time, especially if autumn is dry. Apply 20-30 liters of water to each plant.

Before the onset of cold weather, it is advisable to tie the bushes with rope or twine so that the branches do not break or bend to the ground under the weight of the snow. You can build a kind of fence of stakes around them. IN winter period the bushes are covered with a thick layer of snow.

With the arrival of warmer weather, plants need to be carefully inspected. Frost-damaged branches are cut out, and the remaining ones are treated with Bordeaux mixture (1%). It is worth paying attention to swelling buds. They may be affected by ticks. Signs of its presence are a strong enlargement of the kidneys, their inflated round shape. Such shoots cannot be left on the bush; they must be immediately removed and burned.

Blackcurrant agricultural technology is simple, but following it will allow you to obtain rich harvests of tasty and healthy berries. Inexperienced summer residents should begin their experiments by planting this particular shrub on the site. Currants, like no other crop, are tolerant of the owner’s mistakes. Neither overwatering, nor lack of nutrition and moisture, nor frosty winters, nor improper pruning can ruin it.

Reproduction of shrubs will not bring any trouble. 6-year-old plants are the most productive, so professionals in dacha affairs do not allow plantings to become stale. When the currant bush reaches 3 years of age, cuttings are cut from it or a branch is bent to the ground and dug in to form a layer. They are planted in a separate area. By the time the yield of the mother plant decreases, the first berries will already appear on the young bushes.

Currants are good for everyone: they are beautiful, tasty and do not require much care. Know for yourself, remove the weeds and put berries in your mouth. This is why gardeners love it, growing it almost everywhere, from Kuban to Siberia. But, you can significantly increase the yield, provide yourself with berries, and sell the surplus. True, for this it is necessary to select appropriate varieties and strictly follow agricultural practices. Read our article and find out how to surprise yourself and your neighbors with rich currant harvests.

There is a rule: “To fix something, you need to know how it works.” This also applies to the cultivation of currants: in order to achieve high yields, you need to know the biological characteristics of the plant. There are three types of currants:

• black;
• red;
• golden.

The species are similar in principles of agricultural technology and biological features. As part of the article, we will look at black currants, and we will tell you the nuances of growing red currants as needed.

Biological characteristics of currants

Currant is perennial shrub, the height of which does not exceed 1.5-2 m. A feature of the plant is the absence of buds on the roots.

Look at the image. The growth of basal shoots (1) begins from the root collar zone (6). It is in this way that a currant bush is formed, which is why it does not sprout. The next year, after the appearance of shoots of zero order, two-year-old branches appear (2), then three-year-old branches (3).

This feature of currants must be taken into account when planting a bush.

Root collar

should be approximately 10 cm below the soil surface.

In this case, many shoots of zero order appear, the bush is easier to form, and over time it can be rejuvenated without problems. Most gardeners do not know about this, and many online resources do not provide such information. Meanwhile, correct location The root collar of the bush is the key to the strength of the plant and a bountiful harvest.

Features of stem development

Currants differ in the nature of stem development. Conventionally, the plant can be divided into three groups:

1. There are many annual branches, but few perennial branches. In this group of currants, fruitlets live for a year or two, then they die, and new ones form in their place. After 4-5 years, new fruit branches stop forming and the yield decreases. The situation can be corrected by pruning branches older than 4 years into a ring. The most famous blackcurrant variety of this type is September Daniel.
2. There are few basal shoots, but the perennial stems branch well. The fruits on such bushes live a long time, on average 4-5 years, which is why the bush bears fruit for 6-7 years. If the branch is older, the fruits on it become smaller and the yield decreases. The solution to the problem is to annually cut out 2-3 perennial branches. This stimulates the growth and development of root shoots, the bush is renewed in a timely manner, and the yield does not decrease. A variety of this type is Memory Michurin.
3. In this group there are varieties that occupy a middle “position” between the previous ones. In other words, both the number of basal shoots and the degree of their branching have an average value. The duration of fruiting is 5-6 years. It can be increased by shortening the branches to the first strong bud. One of these varieties is Success.

In the picture you can see how fruits are formed on the branches of different ages in black currants.

As for red currants, they have more durable fruits. If agricultural practices are followed, red currants produce a larger harvest than black currants over a period of 8-10 years. Pruning is mainly aimed not at rejuvenating the bush, but at reducing the degree of thickening.

Currant morphogenesis

If you got scared and decided to quickly scroll through this item, we hasten to reassure you. We won’t tell you all the biological subtleties. But knowing the timing of currant morphogenesis and what it affects will help you take the necessary measures in a timely manner to increase productivity.

Scientists have found that the process of laying the crop begins a year before fruiting. This year the yield will depend on how the currants developed last season. And it is morphogenesis (bud differentiation) that is the most important stage. The timing of the process varies, depending on the following factors:

• type and variety of currant;
• air temperature;
• amount of precipitation;
• number of sunny and cloudy days;
• other conditions.

It has been established that in dry and sunny weather morphogenesis proceeds faster than in cloudy and rainy weather. In terms of timing, we can only definitely say that the beginning of bud differentiation is from July 12, and the end is in the spring of next year. In some years, morphogenesis may begin in early August.

Surprisingly, it is during this period that most inexperienced gardeners calm down and limit themselves to weeding and waiting for the harvest. Meanwhile, you need to redouble your efforts and ensure compliance with agricultural practices.

Currant bushes must receive the required amount of nutrients, water, and light. You need to pay attention to the condition of the leaves. Leaves damaged by diseases or underdeveloped do not provide high-quality photosynthesis. The significance of this process for plant life is known from school biology courses.

Varieties of different types of currants

Familiarize yourself with the main modern varieties of different types of currants. The photo can be enlarged by clicking and viewed in more detail. The varieties listed below are approved by VNIISPK and zoned.

Currant variety Smolyaninovskaya

One of the few modern varieties that have white fruits. As a result of selection, scientists obtained a shrub that not only has such unusual berries, but also has high resistance to disease.

The Smolyaninovskaya variety is easy to care for, it is not afraid of frost, the berries are juicy, with a characteristic sourness. At the same time, good yields have been achieved: if you follow agricultural techniques, you will get up to 5 kg of harvest from one bush! This variety can be grown in open ground in the Urals, Volga region and central regions of Russia.

Currant variety Karaidel

The variety is intended for cultivation in the Urals, but is also suitable for other regions of Russia. The bush is compact and easy to care for. Among the amenities are a low degree of fungal diseases and winter hardiness.

The berries are quite large, aromatic, with dense pulp. There are few seeds, so you can safely use them for making jams. The only drawback is that it requires regular pruning due to the strong growth of basal shoots.

Dutch red currant

One of the oldest currant varieties. It is known to have been grown in Europe as early as the 17th century. The currant bush is tall, the crown density is increased, but not very spreading. The fruits are dense, with a characteristic sour taste. The seeds are dense and large, so the main purpose of the variety is processing and preservation.

Dutch red currants have excellent resistance to fungal diseases. The plant is suitable for growing in open ground in the North-Western regions of Russia, but does not take root well in the Urals or Kuban.

Currant Krasa Altai

Are you looking for a currant variety that can be grown in open ground in the Urals and Siberia? Pay attention to the Beauty of Altai. The plant is susceptible to powdery mildew and some pests, but with timely preventative treatments, it will delight you with productivity.

The variety tolerates severe frosts well and self-pollinates. A nice addition is that the berries adhere firmly to the branches and do not fall off after ripening. At the same time, the taste of currants is pleasant, with a slight sourness. Suitable for food both fresh and for preservation.

Currant Ural beauty

Despite the fact that the variety is zoned for Western Siberia, it is successfully grown in the Urals, in the Moscow region and in other regions of Russia. Gardeners are attracted to the variety by its high yield and large, sweet berries. The Ural beauty tolerates severe frosts well, and the medium-sized bush makes the process of caring for the plant easier.

Disadvantages include poor resistance to some pests. You can fight them, and successfully. If you follow the recommended agricultural practices, the variety will delight you with regular and abundant harvests.

We have described for you only a few modern varieties currants If you are interested in earlier selections that were cultivated in the USSR, see the table.

Belarusian sweet	Average	Black, large, weighing 1-1.2 g	High	2.5-3 kg/bush
Grape	Early	Black, large, weight 1.3 g	Excellent	3-6 kg/bush
Leningrad giant	Average	Black, with thin skin, weighing 1.2-2.2 g	good	3-5 kg/bush
Stakhanovka Altai	Average	Black, dull, do not crumble, weight 0.7-0.9 g	High	1.5-3 kg/bush
Chulkovskaya	Early	Red, small, weighing 0.4 g	Average	4-6 kg/bush
Sugar red	Early	Juicy, sweet, weighing up to 1 g	High	4 kg/bush
Versailles white	Average	Yellow, transparent, large, weight up to 1.5 g.	Average	3-4 kg/bush

Rules for planting currants

The yield of any type of currant depends on the conditions in which it grows. The landing site must meet the following requirements:

• the plot is flat or has a slight slope (no more than 50);
• It is not recommended to plant on hillocks or depressions: in the first case, the plant will suffer from cold wind, in the second - from the accumulation of cold air;
• any soil, but its acidity is not lower than 4.5 pH;
• groundwater depth is at least 1 m.

Having picked up suitable place proceed to the next stage. Remove all weeds, apply fertilizer to the soil according to the following scheme:

• manure or compost - a bucket on square meter;
• lime – 2-6 kg/m2 (dosage depends on pH level);
• superphosphate – 500-700 g/10 m2;
• potassium salt – 200 g/10 m2.

After applying fertilizer, dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel. Remember that soil preparation should be carried out approximately 2 months before planting.

The size of the planting holes depends on the quality of the soil. The optimal values ​​are 40x40 cm; if the soil is poor in nutrients, do not be lazy and dig large holes. Currants will thank you with enhanced growth and high productivity.

You can see the layout diagrams in the table.

Single	1	1,8-2
Tape	0,6-0,8	2

The tape scheme has an advantage over the single one: already in the first years, the yield increases significantly. The disadvantage of this method is that fungi and viruses actively develop in a thickened environment, which requires additional care efforts. The choice of currant planting scheme is up to you.

Plants can be planted in the fall, but the best survival rate is obtained when spring planting. The seedlings need to be prepared. How to do this?

The cuttings must be kept in water at a temperature of 460C for 13-15 minutes. The purpose of this procedure is to kill the currant kidney mite. Be careful about the water temperature, lower values ​​will not give the desired result, higher values ​​will spoil the cuttings.

Purchased seedlings need to be pruned if this was not done in the nursery. Leave 3-4 buds on the branches, remove the rest. This event stimulates the development of the bush in the first years of life. See the photo for an example; the branches to be removed are marked in red.

Now you can start planting currants. Make a soil mixture according to the following recipe:

• bucket of soil;
• a bucket of humus;
• 200 g of phosphate fertilizers;
• 40 g of potassium preparations.

Mix well and pour into the bottom of the planting hole. To protect currant roots from being burned by fertilizers, make a small mound of clean soil on top of the mixture. As a result, you should end up with a mound at the bottom of the hole.

Now you can proceed directly to planting:

1. Pour a bucket of water into each hole to create liquid mud.
2. Place the seedlings. Important condition: they should be located at an angle, and the root collar should be 8-10 cm below the soil surface. This planting stimulates the rapid development of root shoots. We wrote about this at the beginning of the article. If your site has loamy soils, then the depth of the root collar should be no more than 5 cm.
3. Straighten the roots, make sure that they do not bend upward, this will worsen the survival rate.
4. Fill in the soil and compact it so that there are no voids around the roots. At this stage it is important not to overdo it, so control yourself. Just tug the seedling lightly: it should not be pulled out, but it should not “sit” firmly in the ground.

Provide the plant with abundant watering in the first 5 days after planting. The norm is 3-5 liters per bush. If the weather continues to rain, there is no need to water.

Caring for currants in open ground

Pay special attention to weed control; they need to be removed regularly. For the development of beneficial soil microorganisms, loosening is necessary. Do this carefully so as not to damage the roots. The depth of loosening at a distance of 30 cm from the bush is 4-6 cm, further than 30 cm – up to 12 cm. This technique, in addition, will prevent weeds from multiplying. In the first years, you can grow lettuce or dill in the rows.

Don't forget about mulching. It will help retain moisture, protect against weeds, and increase productivity. Use humus, peat, leaves or plastic wrap. The width of the mulch circle in the first years of currant life is 50-70 cm, later - 1.25 m. The thickness of the mulch is 4-5 cm.

As for watering, it is necessary during dry periods, during bush growth, and after harvesting. The norm is 30 l/m2. Remember, if it’s a rainy year, you don’t need to water the currants.

Fertilizers and fertilizers for currants

Do you want to increase currant yields by 30%, or even 50%? This is possible if fertilizers and fertilizers are used correctly. In the first year, if you planted the plant according to the rules, the seedlings do not need to be fertilized. It is enough to add urea at a concentration of 0.3% - this will improve the development of the seedling in the growth phase.

Starting from the second year of currant life, begin to fertilize. Remember that at the beginning of summer, to stimulate leaf growth and increase the formation of ovaries, the plant requires nitrogen fertilizers. Towards the end of summer, especially after harvesting, when morphogenesis is most active, currants need potassium fertilizers. See the table for the drugs and their dosage.

Ammonium nitrate is a nitrogen fertilizer, superphosphate is a phosphorus fertilizer. This information will help you decide on the timing of application. These substances can be added either in dry form or in solutions; the method will not affect the effectiveness.

Try not to use potassium salts: currants react poorly to them. For red currants, it is generally better to replace mineral potassium fertilizers by adding wood ash in the same dose.

Organic matter can also be used as root feeding:

• slurry - dilute with water 5-6 times;
• bird droppings - dilute with water 10-12 times.

Not only dosage and timing affect the effectiveness of fertilizer application. What matters is how they are introduced. For example, if you simply dig up the soil along with the preparations, they will remain in the top layer of soil. Roots that are located deep will not receive nutrients. Therefore, this method can be used with a single planting scheme.

More good results gives a method that our grandfathers used. Dig circular holes along the projection of the bush. They should be narrow, but at least 25 cm deep. After fertilizing, fill the holes with soil.

Good results when growing currants in open ground are obtained by foliar feeding, which is carried out by spraying. We recommend using one of two recipes:

1. 1.3 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid per bucket of water - spray plants in the flowering phase.
2. 30 g of ammonium nitrate and 25 g of potassium nitrate, 100 g of superphosphate, 10 liters of water - for spraying the bushes.

Fertilize early in the morning, preferably so that the leaves are wet. You can’t hold such events during lunch: you can burn the foliage.

Mineral fertilizers are good, but don’t forget about organic matter. Adding humus, peat, or compost as top dressing will not only provide the plant with the necessary substances, but will also enrich the soil with beneficial bacteria. This feeding should be done once every two years, in late autumn.

Currant pruning

We already talked partly about the technique at the beginning of the article, now in more detail. The purpose of pruning is sanitary and bush formation. The productivity of the plant largely depends on how correctly the currants were pruned. What should you pay attention to?

1. When planting, you have already trimmed the branches. Now you need to select and leave two or three powerful root shoots every year, and remove the rest. This way you will form a strong bush with high yield.
2. Cut the remaining branches to ¼ of their original length.
3. Cut out branches that are more than 5 years old. It is easy to get ahead of them: the tops of the shoots dry out, the growth is weak.
4. Trim diseased branches in a timely manner.

For red currants, the pruning technique is the same. The exception is that on two-year-old shoots and older, the tops cannot be cut off.

How can currants be propagated?

Have you bought currants, received your first harvest and are thinking about how to propagate the bushes? Use the vegetative method, it is this that allows you to preserve the parental qualities of the plant.

1. Woody cuttings.
2. Green cuttings.
3. Green apical cuttings.
4. By layering.

Each method has its own nuances, we will tell you about them, and you choose the method at your own discretion.

Propagation by woody cuttings

The method captivates with its simplicity and decent results. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology. Read carefully and remember.

1. Select the bottom or middle part of an annual branch. The length of the harvested cuttings should be 15-20 cm, thickness – 6 mm. The number of buds on the cutting is 4-5 pcs. The time for material procurement is the second half of September.
2. Place the cut material in a container with damp sand and put it in the basement. If possible, the cuttings can be kept under the snow; this method of lignification is preferable.
3. Before spring planting, treat the cuttings with root growth stimulants. Use Kornevin - 5g/5l or heteroauxin - 100-150 g per liter of water. Keep the cuttings in the solution for a day, and they should be 2/3 immersed in liquid. The air temperature should not be lower than 230C.
4. Transplant the cuttings into pots with soil. After about 12 days, seals will appear on the lower part, which signal that the cuttings can be planted on permanent place into open ground.
5. While the cuttings are in pots, prepare the soil at the planting site. To do this, add 8 kg of compost, 40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of wood ash for each square meter. Dig and moisten the soil.
6. Cuttings should be planted in early spring at an angle of 450, leaving one bud on the surface. This landing helps rapid growth root system. The distance between cuttings in a row is 10 cm, the row spacing is 25 cm.
7. An important condition is abundant irrigation after planting in the amount of 30 liters of water per square meter.

Planting cuttings under film gives good results. To do this, spread the material over the bed and dig in the edges. The planting pattern for this method is 8x15 cm. To get rid of weeds that can grow under the film, sprinkle the rows with soil in the summer.

With this method of propagation, the bush is obtained with one stem. To get several branches, pinch the top as soon as it grows 8 cm. You will get 2-3 shoots.

Propagation by green cuttings

One of the simple and reliable methods of propagation, which is suitable for both a novice amateur and an experienced gardener. Cuttings are carried out as soon as the desired shoots reach a length of 20 cm. This usually happens by mid-summer, but the timing is different for each region. To have a clear idea of ​​the method, see the schematic image.

1. Choose two-year-old branches with developed second-order shoots (1).
2. Cut the cuttings according to the diagram, lower leaves can be deleted.
3. Remember that there should be a small area of ​​two-year-old wood left on the bottom.
4. Plant in the ground (3), the distance between cuttings is 5 cm, between rows is 15 cm. Planting depth is 3-7 cm, but the longer the cutting, the greater the value.
5. Water thoroughly, about 3-4 times per tap. In hot weather - 5-7 times.

Further care of the cuttings consists of timely weeding, loosening and disease control.

Now you can rest for 15 days. Watering the cuttings is carried out through condensation, and the increased air temperature promotes rapid rooting of the cuttings. A month after planting, remove the film and continue to grow young bushes in the usual way.

Propagation by green apical cuttings

The method is quite complicated and requires special equipment. To implement it, a greenhouse or greenhouse and a fog-forming installation are required. This technology is available to specialized gardens and nurseries, so we’ll talk about it briefly.

The cuttings are planted in a specially prepared substrate consisting of soil and peat in a 1:1 ratio. Then, using the installation, fog is created, the air humidity should be at least 90%. With this method, cuttings take root within 2 weeks.

Reproduction by layering

The method is simple and often used. It is based on the ability of currants to “sprout” roots from shoots. The technology is simple:

1. In early spring, bend annual shoots to the ground and secure them with wooden spikes, as shown in the figure.
2. As soon as the shoots grow 10 cm, make the first hilling 4 cm thick. The soil should be moist.
3. After 20 days, repeat the hilling, layer thickness – 10 cm.
4. In the fall, cut off the shoot from the base of the bush, select the strongest shoots and transplant to a permanent place. Do not touch weak shoots, let them grow.

The survival rate of the cuttings is high; you can easily propagate the variety you like.

Currant diseases and pests

Even modern varieties of currants different types may be damaged by illness or disease.

See the tables for signs and treatment methods.

Currant pests

Currant diseases and their treatment

American powdery mildew	A light white coating appears on the shoots and fruits. Then it thickens and changes color to brown. Leaves and shoots stop growing and die.	Spraying before flowering with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g/10 l). After flowering, treat the bushes 4 times with a solution of soda ash and soap (50 g/10 l each). In case of severe damage, spray with colloidal sulfur 1% (50 g/10 l).
Black currant plumpness	The leaves lengthen, become asymmetrical, and the number of veins decreases. The inflorescences acquire a purple color. The bushes are thickened.	Buy planting material from nurseries. Destroy diseased bushes. There are no effective control measures.
Anthracnose	Appear on leaves and shoots yellow spots, which change color to brown. Over time, the lesions grow and merge. The leaves take on a scorched appearance and fall off. Brown bumps may appear on the berries.	Prevention: timely collection and destruction of fallen leaves. Treatment of planting material with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g/10 l). For treatment, spray the bush with 1% Bordeaux mixture. Treatment is twofold: before flowering and after harvesting.

Red currants are not affected by the described pests and suffer less. But, if suddenly a disease occurs, the control measures are the same.

Conclusion

Now you know not only how to plant currants, but also the basics of proper care to obtain a high yield.

Note that many modern varieties may have slightly different requirements for agricultural technology, so check the nuances of care when purchasing seedlings.

When writing the article, the following literature was used:

1. Shaumyan K.V., Kolesnikov E.V. ‘Yagodniki’ - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1981 - p.64.
2. Glebova E.I., Dankov V.V., Skripchenko M.M. ‘Berry Garden’ - Leningrad: Lenizdat, 1990 - p.205

If you still have any questions, ask in the comments, we will answer them. Did you like the article? Share it with your friends on social networks.

Currant

Currant berries are extremely tasty and healthy. This plant is a long-lived garden crop, the fruits of which appear a year after planting. If you take good care of the bush, you can get fruits from the bush for 15 years.

Currants - optimal timing for planting

The optimal time for planting currants is considered to be the beginning of autumn, although they are occasionally planted in the spring. As a rule, two-year-old seedlings that have three skeletal roots are planted. Before purchasing, seedlings are carefully inspected so as not to purchase diseased or weakened specimens.

The bushes grow and develop well in a place where there is sufficient lighting and protection from the wind; the soil should be non-acidic and sufficiently drained

To get rid of excess soil acidity before planting, up to 800 g of lime is added per square meter of soil, as well as two to four kg of organic fertilizer, 150 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate. After this, the soil is dug up to a depth of 22 cm.

Features of autumn planting currants

The holes for seedlings are formed with dimensions of 55x55 cm, while their depth should reach up to 45 cm, and the distance between holes should be 1.5-2 m. A bucket of humus, 100 g of superphosphate, 45 g of potassium chloride are added to all holes. To prevent fertilizers from burning the roots, fertilizers should be sprinkled with soil to a depth of 7-9 cm. Dig holes and apply fertilizers 14-20 days before planting - the soil will then have time to settle.

The currants are placed in the recesses at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of five centimeters

Planting currant cuttings

The roots are carefully straightened to ensure the growth and development of additional roots and shoots from buds sprinkled with soil - then the bushes will grow powerful with beautiful branches. Besides, root system sprinkle with soil, then it is compacted, each bush is watered with 0.5 buckets of water, the hole is filled with soil. A furrow is formed around the planting and filled with water, and the nearby soil is mulched with humus to prevent the formation of a crust. At the end, it is necessary to trim the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil, so that four to five buds remain. The cuttings are placed in moist soil to allow them to develop roots.

Features of planting in spring

In the spring, currants are planted before the sap flow begins, so that the buds have not yet opened. The disadvantage of planting in spring is that at the beginning of the growing season there is very little time left for planting - currants begin to grow very early, and the soil at that time may not be warm enough for rooting. If you dig a hole in the fall, this will allow the soil to settle, which will make the task much easier.

Caring for a currant bush

Currant care

Spring currant care

Spring currant care involves:

• removing the buds that have been affected by the mite or the entire shoot if there are too many mites;
• digging up the bush and mulching the soil using manure or humus;
• periodic bush;
• removing weeds and loosening the soil two to three times a week. When using mulching, you can loosen the soil less often;
• pruning bushes after wintering;
• processing in early spring;
• When the bushes are flowering, the plants are inspected and if double inflorescences are found, they are removed.

Summer currant care

In summer, watering the bush is very important. It is necessary to keep the soil clean between the bushes and fight. Watering the bushes is combined with organic fertilizing. Treating bushes against pests and diseases should be stopped three weeks before the berries ripen.

Autumn care for currants

When the harvest is harvested, it is necessary to water the bushes and loosen the soil. Feeding the bushes with mineral and organic fertilizers is carried out in the last days of September. planted and propagated. If the autumn turns out to be dry, you need to water the bushes generously and treat them to prevent diseases and pest damage.

Treatment of currant bushes from pests and diseases

How to treat bushes

Even the most beautiful lush bushes currants can suffer from pests and diseases, so the bushes need to be treated preventively before the buds swell. For this purpose, use a 1% solution of karbofos, copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. They and the soil are also treated with nitrafen. When the growing season ends, you need to remove all fallen leaves from the area so that pests do not infest there. Treat the soil and bushes with the indicated preparations.

Watering currants

After a snowy winter in the spring, you will not have to water the bushes often, but after a winter with little snow, you will need to regularly water the currant bushes. When the ovaries are formed and the crop is filling and in dry weather, the soil is watered with warm water once every five days. To penetrate moisture to a depth of 30-40 cm, it is necessary to pour 20-30 liters of water per square meter, pouring it exclusively under the bush, avoiding drops on the leaves and berries. At the end of the growing season during dry autumn, winter watering of the bushes is carried out, providing moisture to the root system of currant bushes until the end of the winter period.

It is worth noting that white and red types of currants are less demanding in terms of constantly maintaining a certain level of moisture in the soil.

Top dressing for currants

When planting, the bushes receive the amount of nutrients that will be sufficient for growth and development for two years, but then the currants need to be fed regularly. Nitrogen fertilizers need to be applied in early spring. For two-year-old bushes, 40-50 g of urea is applied, and for four-year-old bushes, they are fed twice with doses of 15-20 grams. In the autumn season, each bush is fertilized with 4-6 kilograms of organic matter.

Top dressing for currants

To improve the resistance of bushes to various kinds diseases and laying the foundation for the future harvest in the period June-July, three foliar feedings of the bushes are carried out - 3 g of boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate and 35 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in separate containers and combined in 10 liters of water. Bushes are treated with this solution. This is done when the sun has set, or on a cloudy day.

Pruning currant bushes

How to prune bushes in spring

Pruning bushes stimulates their fruiting, since the plant's energy is not wasted on unnecessary shoots - weak and poorly developing. It is necessary to prune branches that are older than six years, as well as dried and diseased branches.

How to prune bushes in autumn

In the first year of life currant bush you need to trim all shoots to a distance of 10-15 cm from the ground. On the second step, cut off the zero shoots, leaving the three strongest ones. At 3-4 years of life, zero shoots are cut off, leaving about six of the most developed ones. You also need to cut off weak shoots from the middle of the bush, the top - on last year's shoots, as well as all branches that are more than six years old.

Red And white currants are pruned in the spring, but the tops of the growths are not pinched, and two- and three-year-old shoots are not shortened. Branches older than seven years, unnecessary young shoots and affected branches are pruned.

The structure of a currant bush

Currant propagation

This is usually done vegetatively - with the help of arcuate layering, cuttings, and rooting two-year-old branches. Red - it is better to propagate by layering.

Propagation by cuttings involves the use of two types - green and lignified

Most in an accessible way will be propagated by lignified cuttings. This can be done at any time, but I make preparations at the beginning of winter. Cuttings are cut from the middle of one-year-old shoots or from three-year-old branches, and their length should be up to 20 cm and thickness about 10 mm. Cuttings for the winter placed in the refrigerator and planted in early spring.

Rooting green cuttings are carried out in greenhouse conditions. They are taken from shoots that have developed well. The length of the cuttings is about 10 cm. The cuttings are placed in water, and two weeks later, after the roots have formed, they are planted in bags of soil, where they grow until May. When planting, the bag is cut and planted together with the cuttings in the soil.

Reproduction of currants by layering

Reproduction by layering is the simplest method in which strong seedlings with a well-developed root system are obtained. A two-year-old branch is bent to the ground, secured with a hook and covered with soil, constantly watered and a seedling is obtained in the fall.

Currant diseases and pests

To prevent and prevent bushes, it is necessary to monitor their health and treat the bushes and the soil around them with solutions of karbofos, nitrafen, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate in the spring (before the buds swell) and in the fall.

In addition, culture is sometimes subjected to negative influence from many, including:

• pale-legged sawfly,
• biennial leaf roller,
• fire,
• moth,
• spider mite and others.

They are fought with chemicals and by treating the bushes in autumn and early spring.

Currants (lat. Ribes) belong to the genus of the Gooseberry family, which has about 200 species of plants. Currant bushes first appeared in the 11th century in the monastery gardens of Rus', and only later they learned about it in Europe, where it gained enormous popularity. In our country, currants are one of the most beloved and widespread berries, which are grown by summer residents and gardeners on their plots. We especially love black currants, which are the healthiest and delicious berry from all other types of currants. It is consumed both fresh and in compotes, jellies, and for future use: it is frozen and made into jam, and also used to make wine, liqueurs, and aromatic liqueurs. In addition to black currants, red and white currants, rich in vitamins and microelements, are no less popular. In addition to the beneficial properties of the berries, the aromatic currant leaves, which are used for preservation and for brewing tea, are also healing. Currant leaves are rich in vitamin C and are used to prevent colds.

The currant bush is a perennial spreading plant with straight, elongated shoots, reaching a height of about 2 meters. Currant root is powerful, strong, up to 60 cm in length. Currant leaves can be elongated or round shape serrated, alternate, consisting of 3-5 lobes. The color of the leaves ranges from light to dark green shades. Currants bloom with white, yellow, red or pink bell-shaped flowers, collected in drooping inflorescences - brushes. One flower brush can contain from 5 to several dozen flowers. The flowering time of the shrub is mid-spring and depending on the region, its flowering time lasts until June. Currant fruits are round or oval berries with a sour or sweet and sour taste and a pleasant aroma. There are types of currants that have a fresh and weakly expressed taste and aroma. The color range of currant berries is varied; they can be white, golden, red, inky black, matte, glossy, or waxy. Types of currants and the most popular varieties There is a huge variety of types of currants, the most common of them are: Black currant (lat. Ribes nigrum) is the most widespread culture throughout Europe, Russia, as well as Kazakhstan and Mongolia. It can be found in almost every garden or personal plot, black currant is also common in wildlife, where it grows in forests, meadows on the banks of reservoirs. The height of the blackcurrant bush is from 1 to 2 meters. Young shoots of the bush are light green in color with an edge, while adults are brown tint. The flowering period of the bush is May-June, the time of fruit ripening is mid-summer. The fruits are black in color, aromatic and sweet and sour in taste. The most famous varieties of black currant: Ariadne. Winter-hardy, high-yielding and resistant to many diseases variety, with medium ripening of berries. Belarusian sweet. Winter-hardy variety with high yield. Gross. An early winter-hardy variety with high yield. Venus. High-yielding early variety with a sweetish taste of berries Gulliver. A variety resistant to drought and frost with an average ripening period. Pearl. An early variety with large spherical fruits with a sweet taste. Sofievskaya. An early variety with oval-shaped berries with a sweet and sour taste, a high-yielding variety. Bagheera. Winter-hardy variety with high yield. Fruits with thin glossy skin, the taste of the berries is sweet. Red currant (common, garden currant) (lat. Ribes rubrum) a fairly common type of currant, growing in Russia, Europe and Asia. The height of the bush is from 1 to 2 meters with shoots of sandy or gray shades. The bush blooms in May, ripens in mid-June. Red currant berries hang from the shoots in large clusters with bright red berries ranging from 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter with a distinct sour taste. The most famous varieties of red currants: Darnitsa. High yielding, medium grade. Its distinctive ability is that the variety tolerates transportation well. Enchantress. High-yielding variety with large berries with a sweet and sour taste. Ural beauty. Large-fruited variety with high yield. Valentinovka. Late variety with large berries. White currant (lat. Ribes niveum) distributed in Europe and Asia, the height of the bush is from 1 to 1.5 meters. It blooms in May, fruiting period is June. Sweet and sour berries of white color with a yellowish tint are collected in clusters. The diameter of the fruit is from 0.6 to 1 cm. The most famous varieties of white currants: White fairy. A variety with sweet and sour berries of a white, transparent color and early ripening. Dessert. Large-fruited cream-colored variety. Belyan. Mid-season variety with sweet-tasting berries, high yield and resistance to various diseases. The fruit size is medium, the color is transparent yellow. Primus. Winter-hardy variety with sweet, juicy yellow berries. The main differences between black, red and white currants The leaves and shoots of black currant, due to the high content of essential oils, have a fragrant aroma. The above-ground parts of white and red currants do not have the same aroma. Red and white currants are more watery and sour in taste than black currants. Black currants contain 4 times more vitamin C than red or white currants Black currants are propagated mainly by cuttings, while red and white currants are propagated by dividing the bush. Red and white currants tolerate drought more easily than black currants. Blackcurrant varieties are more resistant to pests and are less susceptible to diseases. There is no need to replant red and white currants; the bush can bear fruit in one place for 15-20 years. The blackcurrant bush needs to be replanted after 6-7 years, as well as regular pruning to form a bush. Planting currants Choosing a landing site Currants grow well and bear fruit on a flat area or on a small hillock protected from strong wind, dry wind is especially dangerous for currants. Currants grow best in fertile, moist soils that drain water well. Areas with groundwater, as well as swampy places. The shrub is sensitive to soil acidity. The lower it is, the more susceptible the currant is to disease and poor yield. Currants prefer well-lit areas, however, they also grow well in the partial shade of fruit trees. Autumn planting of currants Gardeners recommend planting currants in the fall; this planting allows the seedlings to gain strength for growth and take root before spring. A few weeks before planting, seedlings are prepared planting pits to allow the soil to settle. Holes for planting shrubs are dug approximately 0.5 by 0.5 meters, up to 45 cm deep. It is necessary to maintain a distance between the holes of approximately 1.5-2 meters. Fertilizers are added to the pit: a bucket of humus; 100 grams of superphosphate; 45 grams of potassium chloride. To avoid burns to the roots, sprinkle the fertilizer on top with a small layer of soil (7-9 cm). A special feature of planting currant seedlings is planting at an angle of 45 degrees, so that the root collar is buried 5 cm so that additional shoots begin to grow. The roots must be well straightened, sprinkled with soil, compacted and watered with water (0.5 buckets of water), then fill the hole with soil. After planting the seedling, you need to make a furrow around the bush and pour water into it, and then mulch it with humus. Seedlings should be shortened, leaving 3-5 buds on each shoot. Spring planting of currants Seedlings can be planted in pre-prepared holes in the fall in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. Shrub planting is carried out according to the same scheme as autumn planting. Currant propagation Currant bushes can be propagated in the following ways: dividing the bush; cuttings; layering. Currants: propagation by dividing the bush The method of propagating currants by dividing the bush is practically not used by gardeners. Dividing the bush is used when there is a shortage of planting material, forced transplantation of the bush to a new location, or for breeding valuable varieties of currants. The main advantage this method reproduction is the rapid rooting of the transplanted shrub. Stages of work: Transplantation is carried out in autumn or early spring. The currant bush is carefully dug out of the ground, trying not to damage the root. Young shoots are shortened with pruning shears to a height of 25-30 cm, and dry branches are cut out. Using a sharp ax, it is necessary to divide the bush into several parts so that the divided parts of the bush have a healthy branched root and formed buds on the shoots. For transplantation, it is necessary to prepare in advance holes 60-80 cm deep, fertilized with manure, into which the divided currant bush is transplanted. The roots should be carefully straightened and covered with soil. The soil around the bush is thoroughly compacted and watered, at least 1-1.5 buckets for each bush. Propagation of currants by cuttings Propagation of currants by cuttings is the most common and productive method for propagating the required currant variety, which allows you to preserve all the valuable characteristics of the variety. Cuttings can be done at any time of the year: in spring, autumn, when woody shoots are used, and also in summer - with green currant cuttings. The cuttings are planted in a previously prepared place; compost and organic matter - rotted manure - must be added to the soil. Currant cuttings in spring or autumn Healthy woody shoots are selected for cuttings. The shoot is trimmed from 16 to 25 cm long. The upper cut of the cutting is made above the bud, 1-1.5 cm away from the top, and the lower cut is made at an angle under the bud. Before planting the cuttings, the soil must be mulched with humus or peat and watered well. The cuttings must be buried in the ground at an angle, leaving 2-3 buds on the surface for the growth of young shoots. When planted in spring, the cuttings take root very quickly, and in the fall the bush can be transplanted to the designated place. If propagation by cuttings was carried out in the fall, then before the onset of the first frost the cuttings must be covered with straw, leaves or spruce branches. It is worth considering that autumn planting of black currants is carried out in September-October, when the plant enters the dormant phase, and the red currant bush - at the end of August. Summer cuttings of currants Currants can be propagated by green cuttings. Suitable for cutting are flexible green branches that become lignified and do not break when bent. The height of the cutting should be 10-12 cm with 3-5 pairs of leaves, the lower leaves are shortened by half or removed, leaving the petioles. The lower end of the cutting must be immersed in a solution of a growth stimulator for a day, and then planted in the ground, deepening it 2-3 cm, creating a greenhouse for it. The main factor for successful rooting of cuttings is the high humidity of the greenhouse for 3 weeks, so green cuttings must be regularly watered and sprayed. Within a month, when the cutting takes root, it needs to be fed with fertilizer containing nitrogen and watering reduced. In spring, rooted bushes can be transplanted to a permanent location. Reproduction of currants by layering A simple and effective way to propagate currants is propagation by layering, which is done in the spring, before the bush begins to flower. This propagation method is especially suitable for red currants. Near the bush, grooves with a depth of 5 to 7 cm are prepared into which the lower healthy shoots of an adult bush are placed; they must be shortened by a third. The shoots are pinned to the ground with wire; the shoots are not covered with earth. As soon as the selected shoots take root and produce several young shoots 12-15 cm long, they are carefully sprinkled with moistened soil mixed with peat, leaving green tops above the ground. By autumn, the cuttings are ready to be transplanted to a permanent place; they are dug up and cut off from the mother branch. Currant care Caring for a currant bush involves pruning and regularly loosening and removing weeds near the bush, as well as watering, especially in dry weather. Trimming The currant bush needs rejuvenation, which is carried out by removing old, poorly fruiting or damaged shoots. Pruning is done in early spring after the shrub has overwintered or in the fall. Fertilizing currants with fertilizers Shrubs need fertilizing with fertilizer. When planting currants in fertilized soil, additional fertilizing does not need to be done in the first 2-3 years; it is enough to just mulch the bush in the fall. After 2-3 years, mineral fertilizers are applied in dry form in the fall, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used for feeding (30 grams per bush), and in the spring, Urea and ammonium nitrate are applied in diluted form (20-25 grams per bush). During currant flowering, the bush is fertilized organic fertilizer: mullein or bird droppings. To improve productivity, spray the bush with “Ovary” or a solution of zinc sulfate. Currant bushes require certain care at different times of the season. How to care for currants in spring: trim old, damaged branches after wintering; carry out preventive treatment of shrubs against pests or diseases in early spring; It is necessary to remove the buds that are affected by the mite. If a large number of buds on a branch are damaged, it should be removed; the bush needs mulching with manure or humus; currants require abundant watering during the period of active growth and flowering; it is necessary to regularly remove weeds and loosen the soil under the bushes; feed the bush with nitrogen fertilizer. In dry summers, currants need abundant watering, which is combined with organic fertilizers during flowering. The soil around the bush should be clean and loose, so periodically it needs to be hilled up and weeds removed. Loosening and watering of currants continues after harvesting. At the end of September, the bush must be fed with organic and mineral fertilizers and pruned. At this time, the currants are transplanted or propagated. Harvesting is a labor-intensive and important moment in caring for currants. Harvesting should not be delayed, as ripe berries may fall off and their taste may deteriorate. Black currant berries are collected selectively as they ripen, and red and white ones are harvested with brushes. Currant diseases and pests Currant anthracnose - this disease affects leaves that begin to turn brown and dry out. Leaves affected by the fungus must be removed and burned, and the bush should be treated with beard liquid at the rate of 100 grams per 10 liters of water, or copper sulfate(per 10 liters of water – 40 grams). Currant terryness (reversion). Black currants are susceptible to this disease; it is transmitted by aphids and mites during the formation of clusters. Currant flowers become double, become small, and the leaves become deformed. To prevent the disease, the bushes must be treated with insecticides and fungicides, protecting the currants from pests. Striped mosaic – viral disease, transmitted by mites and aphids, in which currant leaves acquire a bright pattern yellow in the form of large veins. The disease cannot be treated; it can only be prevented by treating the bushes with insecticides and fungicides. Powdery mildew affects leaves and stems, which become covered with a white powdery coating. The affected areas should be removed and the bush should be treated with Topaz and copper sulfate (300 grams per 10 liters of water). White spot (septoria) when the disease causes the leaves to become covered with spots brown, which over time acquire a white tint, the leaves are treated with beard liquid. Among the main pests of currants are: Aphid. It appears on the leaves and stems of the plant; to remove it, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of karbofos. Currant glassworm, a butterfly caterpillar, feeds on currant branches from the inside, as a result the shoots dry out and die. To prevent glass from glass, a mixture is added under the currant bush, which includes ash, tobacco, mustard and hot pepper(0.5 cups each). The shrub can be treated with Intavir, Iskra or Fitoferm. Currant leaf gall midge eats young leaves; currant branches need a solution of chlorophos (20 grams) and karbofos (30 grams) per 10 liters of water. Thanks to proper care, the currant bush gives high yield and is most resistant to pests and diseases. The very next year after planting the bush, it begins to bear fruit and delight the eye with beautiful clusters of appetizing, aromatic berries of black, red or white color. Currants, photo

Of all the varieties of currants, black currants are considered the most healthy and aromatic. But for the plant to flourish and make you happy good harvest, it is important to follow simple rules of care and know little tricks when planting it. Below we will talk in detail about where, how and when it is best to plant blackcurrant seedlings, as well as about the features of pruning and fertilizing this berry bush.

What to consider when landing?

Planting black currants is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right time and place for planting, as well as prepare the soil. First, let's discuss the features of the soil that is optimal for black currants.

Priming

Loamy soils are ideal for currants. It grows poorly in acidic and swampy areas, so additional preparatory work. To reduce acidity, you must first add slaked lime or wood ash to the ground when digging in spring or autumn.

Lighting

In order for the bush to bear fruit well and the berries to be ripe and sweet, the plant needs a lot of sun. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, you should give preference to well-lit areas of the garden.

Distance

Currants tend to grow into large and wide bushes, and this is good, because the larger the bush, the more berries it contains. Large bushes, as a rule, have a well-branched root system, which means they need sufficient distance between plants. It is recommended to plant them in rows, with a distance between them of at least 1.8 meters, and between bushes in a row - at least 70 centimeters. Then the plants will have enough space and nutrients.

Pre-fertilizer

Fertilizer can be applied both in the fall, when preparing the site, and immediately before planting currants. In the second case, it is better to do this one to one and a half weeks in advance, so that the minerals have time to be absorbed into the soil and do not burn the roots of the plant. In the most urgent case, fertilizer can be applied a couple of days before planting and mixed well with the substrate. It is risky to place fertilizer directly into the holes, as it can seriously damage the roots.

Fertilizers can be either organic (humus, manure, chicken droppings) or mineral - complex or containing one of the necessary minerals, such as phosphorus, potassium or nitrogen.

Disembarkation time

Most favorable time for planting - late autumn, about two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather. Usually, black currants are planted in the fall in late October - early November.

When planting in the spring, it is important not to miss the right moment - currants are one of the first to bloom, so they need to be planted as early as possible.

Planting: a step-by-step guide

The first thing we do is form a hole in the selected place in the soil that has been dug up and cleared of weeds. To do this, you need to dig a hole up to half a meter deep and the width corresponding to the size of the root system. If you decide to apply fertilizer to the hole itself, then do it and wait another week. When planting in spring, you need to start preparing the hole in the fall.

Now you can start planting. It is important that the roots of the plant are kept moist before and during planting. It is best to put the roots in water 2-3 hours before planting so that they are saturated with water.

It doesn’t matter whether you plant a thin twig or a small bush, you need to do it at an angle. Place the plant in the hole somewhere at an angle of 60 degrees, so that the three lower buds end up in the ground. This planting will help the bush become wider and produce more shoots.

Having sprinkled the roots with soil, you need to lightly compact them (but not compact them!) top layer soil and water the bush generously. The above-ground part of the shoot must be cut off, leaving only the three lower buds. This pruning will prevent premature aging of the bush.

Above we discussed how blackcurrant seedlings are planted . But there is another way to propagate this plant - by cuttings.

To do this, we will need cuttings with three to four buds, 18-20 cm long. They need to be cut in spring or autumn.

Then they are planted in prepared and weed-free soil, with a distance of 12-15 centimeters between them. Only one bud is left above the ground. Planting blackcurrant cuttings is a common way to propagate the plant.

Currant care

It’s not enough to plant correctly black currant, because without proper care, even the strongest plant can die. That’s why not only proper fit is important, but also care.

Watering

Currants love moisture very much, so timely watering is the basis for the prosperity of the bush on your site. Watering is especially important when the berries are ripening - then they will be large and juicy. Otherwise, even if abundant flowering you can get shriveled, small and sour berries.
True, it is also important to observe moderation here - too much watering on loamy soils can lead to rotting of the roots.

Loosening and mulching

Loosening is no less important. By keeping the top layer of soil loose, you ensure that the plant's roots receive enough oxygen. It is also good to remove weeds.

Mulching (covering) the top layer of soil will retain as much moisture as possible and prevent weeds from germinating. You can use hay, newspapers, chopped weed tops, tomatoes, fallen leaves, etc. as mulch. You should not use walnut leaves or pine sawdust, as they can worsen the properties of the soil. When using newspapers as mulch, you need to remember that during flowering they need to be removed, because during this period insects beneficial to the plant come to the surface.

Fertilizer

Black currants need to be fed not only in spring, but also in important stages seasonal life of the plant: flowering and formation of berries. You can use chicken manure, ash or ash dissolved in water as a feed. complex fertilizer in granules. When using the latter, it is better to cover the granules with a layer of soil or mulch.

Trimming

It is best to prune bushes in late fall or early spring. This achieves three important goals - thinning the bush, rejuvenation and removal of diseased shoots.

Thinning will allow you to keep the bush not thickened, provide good access to sunlight to all shoots, and therefore better ripening of the berries. To do this, about 20 percent of the shoots are removed from the middle of the bush. The need for thinning can be easily determined visually.

Rejuvenation of the bush is carried out by removing old branches. This frees up space for young shoots and the plant bears fruit longer and more efficiently.

By removing diseased shoots, you prevent infection of nearby healthy ones, and thus improve the health of the bush. Most often, diseased shoots are also easy to identify by their appearance. You can notice them even during flowering and fruiting. If there were almost no flowers and berries on the shoot, then most likely it is sick and you can safely remove it.

Oxalis berry is a red currant, a very famous deciduous shrub. Currants are very often grown in summer cottages. With her landing and further cultivation Even novice gardeners can do it. At proper care from one red currant bush you can collect up to ten kilograms of berries. Oxalis bushes are very viable and grow in one place for up to twenty-five years.

Red currant varieties

The ripening period of sorrel, care and planting in open ground depend on the variety, soil and climate in the cultivation area. A huge variety of plant varieties makes it possible to make a choice to suit every taste.

Although most are considered self-fertile, gardeners recommend growing several varieties to improve yield and cross-pollination. The taste of sorrel depends on the amount of sugar and organic acids in the fruit. Sweet varieties have a pronounced sweetness and a slightly sour taste. These include:

• "early sweet";
• "sugar";
• "Vetch";
• "Dutch pink";
• "viksne";
• "pink pearl"

As a rule, most red currant varieties are cold-resistant. However, among them there are frost-resistant forms suitable for planting in places with harsh winters. TO frost-resistant varieties may include the following:

• "Natalie";
• "Jonker van Tets";
• “beloved”;
• “red Andreichenko”;
• "Dutch red"

Large-fruited varieties:

• "Ural beauty";
• "ilinka";
• "cascade";
• "roland";
• "alpha".

If you plant bushes of early ripening, mid-ripening and late ripening on your site, then you will feast on the fruits of red currants all summer long.

Planting currants in autumn

Oxalis berries can be planted both in spring and autumn. This plant is not recommended for growing in areas after gooseberries, or after uprooting old sorrel bushes. With the classic method of bush growing, plants are planted at a distance of one meter from each other and with a row spacing of two and a half meters. In the Urals and Siberia, planting is best done at the end of August.

IN southern regions Red currants are planted from mid-September to the first week of October. The main guideline for planting a plant is considered to be a steady cooling. Red currants need to be planted about a month before the cold weather. Bushes are best placed in open, sunny and well-ventilated areas. This will help reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Currants are an unpretentious crop and adapt well to harsh climatic conditions.

Planting currants in spring

In spring, red currants must be planted before active sap flow begins. Planting of seedlings should be done in a hole 40 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter, this will allow the root system to be well placed. As a top dressing, you can use ten liters of compost or manure with the addition of fifty grams of superphosphate, the same amount of potassium chloride and a little wood ash. In the middle part of the country, the soil and climate are excellent for planting and growing red currants. Therefore the bush will not deliver special troubles gardeners.

Watering

Timely watering is considered the key to a rich harvest. Thanks to its developed root system, sorrel is resistant to drought. Lack of water primarily affects the growth, development and fruiting of the plant.

Therefore, during the period of growth and ripening of berries, regular moistening is necessary, allowing the soil to be saturated with moisture to a depth of 50-60 cm. One bush requires about two buckets of water, which is poured into grooves dug at a distance of about 30 cm from the plant.

Fertilizer application

For the first two years after planting an oxalis bush, fertilizing is not required if the planting technology is followed and the required amount of fertilizing is applied to the planting hole. At the beginning of the spring, as soon as the shoots begin to grow, twenty grams of urea or thirty grams of ammonium nitrate are added to each bush.

After flowering, it is advisable to feed it with organic matter: an aqueous solution based on bird droppings (1:20) or mullein (1:10). A bucket of this solution is placed under the currant bush. In addition, red currants can be fed with complex mineral fertilizers at the rate of twenty grams per square meter. In late autumn it needs mineral and organic fertilizers.

Pests of red currant:

• The currant borer feeds on the pith of wood sorrel branches. To combat it, it is recommended to cut out and burn the shoots, and it is also necessary to carefully select planting material.
• Spider mites damage red currant leaves. To destroy, immediately after flowering, the bushes are treated with Fitoverm at the rate of two milliliters per liter of water.
• Currant bud moth damages buds and oxalis. When bushes are infected, it is necessary to cut out damaged shoots at the root and burn them.
• The gooseberry moth is a fairly common pest that attacks currant berries. If early colored berries are found, long before ripening, they should be collected and destroyed. It is also recommended to dig up the soil around the bush in the autumn.
• The pale-legged sawfly typically damages wood sorrel leaves. In spring and summer, it is necessary to remove the larvae from the leaves of the bush, and also spray it with a decoction of tobacco and wormwood.
• The gooseberry moth eats the leaf blade, as well as the veins of the bushes. To combat it, you should use a tincture of chamomile, a decoction of shag and tobacco.
• Currant glassberry is one of the most dangerous pests. It damages the core of the branches, as a result of which they dry out and die. To avoid this, it is necessary to prune the bushes in early spring, while the buds are dormant. In addition, the soil and bushes can be treated with Fitoverm.
• Shoot aphids are also very common. To combat this pest, you should spray the bushes with a ten percent solution of Karbofos until the buds open.

Oxalis diseases

Another problem for gardeners is red currant diseases. Both treatment and signs of diseases are described below.

• Powdery mildew is quite rare. When infected, a white coating forms on young leaves and fruits. To combat it, you need to spray red currants with a solution of pharmaceutical iodine. With timely treatment, the disease can be defeated fairly quickly.
• Anthracnose is a fungal disease, the development of which is favored by a humid climate. When found dark spots It is recommended to use fungicides.
• White spotting is considered quite common; it causes leaves to fall, bush growth stops and crops die. To treat sorrel berries, it is necessary to treat them with copper sulfate. For preventative purposes, monitor soil moisture and promptly remove fallen leaves, as well as dig up the soil in autumn and early spring.
• Columnar and goblet rust. With these diseases, bright orange growths form. It is treated with fungicides, and the plant can also be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Pruning red currant bushes

When growing shrubs, it is important to know how to prune currants correctly. There is formative and sanitary pruning. Red currants should be pruned at the beginning of the autumn period, as well as after harvesting.

Remove old, broken, diseased branches and extra null shoots. In the spring, you can carry out sanitary pruning. You cannot cut off the tops of branches where there are a large number of berry branches. A well-formed plant has approximately twenty branches.

Beneficial properties of red currants

Eating currant fruits helps absorb animal proteins, improves appetite, and also relieves constipation. Oxalis berries contain a special substance - oxycoumarin, which has an excellent effect on blood clotting. In addition, the fruits contain a large amount of iron, which increases hemoglobin, and also regulates water-salt balance and normalizes heart function. Red currant fruits are an excellent remedy for the prevention of cardiovascular diseases.

The pectins contained in sorrel fruits prevent inflammatory processes and remove harmful substances. Red currant strengthens the immune system. Fruit drink or juice from sorrel fruits is used for nausea and toxicosis in pregnant women. Red currants are an excellent source of energy, as the fruit contains a complex of B vitamins and sugars. Regular consumption of fruit drink made from sorrel berries normalizes the level of hemoglobin in the blood. The beneficial properties of red currant leaves are diuretic and bactericidal. Oxalis leaves also contain ascorbic acid. The great advantage of red currant is that it can be eaten by allergy sufferers, but if you have poor blood clotting, ulcers, or hemophilia, it is better to avoid it.

In conclusion

Oxalis (currant) has been called the berry of health since ancient times; it is for this reason that the plant has become widespread in summer cottages.

Caring for currants is not difficult, but you need to pay attention to timely watering, fertilizing, pruning and protection from pests. If you follow all the rules, red currants will delight you a bountiful harvest for many years.