Planting black currants and the secrets of caring for them. Black currant: cultivation and care Currant bush

Black currant (lat. Ribes nigrum)– a species of the monotypic genus Currant of the Gooseberry family, which is a deciduous berry shrub. IN wildlife Black currant today grows throughout Europe, in the Urals, in Siberia to the Yenisei and Baikal, in Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China. It is also widespread in North America. It is cultivated throughout the world in amateur gardening and on an industrial scale. IN Kievan Rus it appeared in the 10th century - they began to grow it in monastery gardens, and only then black currants began to conquer Europe.

• Landing: in early autumn or early spring.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• Soil: non-acidic, well-drained and fertilized.
• Watering: on average once every five days, using 20-30 liters of water for every 1 m² of land: the soil should be wet to a depth of 30-35 cm.
• Trimming: in spring - sanitary cleaning, during leaf fall - main pruning.
• Feeding: if fertilizers were applied to the soil before planting currants, fertilizing begins in the third year: nitrogen is added in early spring, three times are applied in June-July foliar feeding, in the fall, the soil is dug up with compost, manure or chicken droppings, as well as phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
• Reproduction: layering, lignified and green cuttings, rooting of two-year-old shoots.
• Pests: shoot, gall and red gall aphid, moths, pale-footed moths, fruit and yellow sawflies, biennial leaf rollers, spider and bud mites, moths, glass beetles, gall midges.
• Diseases: white spot (septoria), gray rot, goblet and columnar rust, anthracnose, terry, necrosis of shoots and branches, powdery mildew, striped mosaic, nectria necrosis.

Read more about growing blackcurrants below.

Blackcurrant - description

The fibrous root system of black currant is located at a depth of 20-30 cm. The height of the black currant bush reaches 1 m. Young shoots of currants are pale and pubescent, adults are brown. Black currant leaves are from 3 to 12 cm long and wide with three to five wide-triangular lobes, the middle of which is often elongated, have serrated edges and golden glands along the veins, which emit a well-known aroma. Top side The leaf blade is dark green, dull, the underside is pubescent along the veins. Drooping racemose inflorescences consisting of 5-10 pinkish-gray or lavender bell-shaped flowers, often densely pubescent outside, bloom in May or June. Blackcurrant fruits are glossy, blue-black, fragrant berries up to 1 cm in diameter.

Black currant is one of the most popular in middle lane garden crops, which are grown by amateurs as often as raspberries, gooseberries and strawberries, and much more often than blackberries, strawberries and blueberries. This culture has earned such popularity not only due to its taste and bright aroma, but also due to the large number of vitamins, acids, micro- and macroelements necessary for humans, which blackcurrant berries contain.

We will tell you about how to plant and care for black currants, in what ways they reproduce, how to prune black currants, what to feed them, we will give a description of the varieties of black currants, the most productive and easy to care for, we will describe what pests and diseases of black currants can complicate its cultivation - you will find answers to all your questions in our article.

Planting black currants

When to plant black currants

Currants bear fruit for 12-15 years, and produce the richest harvests in the sixth or seventh year of growth. Almost all varieties of black currant are self-fertile - they do not need pollinators, but the largest and sweetest black currants are obtained when several varieties of this crop are cross-pollinated in one area.

You can plant black currants throughout the growing season, but it is best to do this in late September or early October - before winter, black currant seedlings will take root well, and in early spring they will begin to grow. If you decide to plant currants in the spring, then try to do this before the sap flows and the buds begin to swell.

Soil for currants there should be a fertile, slightly acidic or neutral reaction - pH 5.0-5.5. The crop likes loam most of all. Black currants are planted on the south or southwest side, in a well-lit area, protected from the wind. Groundwater should lie no higher than 1.5 m.

Planting black currants in spring

The area for blackcurrants should be prepared in the fall: the soil is dug up to the depth of a spade, adding 7-10 kg of humus, 1 liter of wood ash and 80-100 g of superphosphate per m².

The planting density of blackcurrant bushes depends on the crop variety. For example, low-spreading or straight-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 100-130 cm from each other, maintaining row spacing up to one and a half meters wide. A planting hole is dug approximately 50x50x50 cm in size, half a bucket of water is poured into it, the seedling is placed in it at an angle of 45º, 4-6 cm deeper than it grew in the mother liquor - this planting method stimulates the intensive formation of roots and shoots.

The roots of the seedling are carefully straightened, covered with soil, compacted, after which another half a bucket of water is poured under the seedling. In order to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil, the area is mulched with peat, humus, dry soil or sawdust.

Planting black currants in autumn

Pits for autumn planting Blackcurrant seedlings are prepared two to three weeks in advance. The top layer of soil mixed with two tablespoons of double superphosphate, a large handful of ash and 5 kg of rotted compost is poured into them, filling the hole by two-thirds. The soil in the hole must settle and compact before planting. The planting procedure is carried out according to the same rules as in the spring. After planting, all shoots of the seedlings are cut off, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on each.

Blackcurrant care

Caring for black currants in spring

Black currants awaken very early in the spring, so you need to have time to trim broken or diseased branches before the buds swell, and also remove buds damaged by mites. If there are too many buds in which mites have settled, trim the entire bush to the base. In spring, in addition to sanitary ones, formative pruning of bushes is carried out. If you hilled up the bushes for the winter, rake away the soil from them.

The soil around the bush is dug up and mulched with a layer of humus or manure 5-10 cm thick, trying to lay it out at a distance of 20 cm from the branches of the bush. As soon as weeds begin to sprout, remove them immediately.

Since black currants are moisture-loving, do not forget to water them, especially if the winter was without snow and spring without rain. After watering, it is advisable to weed the area, as well as fertilize the blackcurrant with nitrogen fertilizers, followed by loosening the soil and embedding granules to a depth of 6-8 cm. Loosening is carried out on average 2-3 times a week, but if you have mulched the area, you can do this through mulch and much less often.

Since black currants enter the active growth stage very early, their opening buds can be damaged by return frosts, so be prepared to protect the bushes from a sharp cold snap with smoke or plastic wrap.

In May, when the currants begin to bloom, inspect the bushes and cut out branches affected by doubleness (reversion) - those on which the flowers have changed from bell-shaped to separate-petaled. If the currants need supports, install them.

Caring for black currants in summer

In June, blackcurrant bushes are watered, weeded and loosened the area around them, and the currants are also fed at the root with organic fertilizers. The crop also responds well to foliar feeding - spraying microfertilizer solutions on the leaves.

If a moth appears, it is necessary to destroy its nests, and if some berries turn brown and become deformed prematurely, this is a sure sign of sawfly activity, so be prepared to treat black currants as well.

In July and August, red and black currants ripen. Black currant fruits are collected selectively, in individual berries, and not in the same way as red currants - in whole clusters. The best dishes for picking berries are trays, boxes or boxes in which the fruits will not be crushed.

After harvesting, currants require abundant watering, and as soon as the soil dries out, it will be necessary to loosen the soil in the area.

Caring for black currants in autumn

At the end of September or beginning of October, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the currant bushes, after which the area is watered and then dug up to incorporate the fertilizers into the soil.

An important point in caring for black currants in the fall is sanitary pruning of bushes. As a result of removing thickening branches, you may have planting material that is time to root in the fall. Layings dug in the spring for rooting are separated from the mother bushes and planted on permanent place.

If there is no rain in autumn, carry out water-recharging irrigation. That's all for autumn work with black currants.

Processing black currants

Early spring Treatment of black currant bushes begins by scalding the bushes from a garden watering can with water heated to 80 ºC. You can replace a hot shower by pollinating the bushes and the surrounding land with wood ash.

To combat some insects, as well as to feed currants with nitrogen, the bushes are treated with a seven percent urea solution, but this must be done until the buds on the branches begin to bloom.

As soon as the first leaf begins to emerge from the buds, the currants are treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate from diseases such as anthracnose, rust and septoria.

If last season you noticed moths in the butterfly area, treat the blackcurrant before flowering with Karbofos, Agravertin, Fitoverm, Iskra-bio in accordance with the instructions, and in addition to this measure, cover the area with film so that the butterflies cannot get out of the ground. As soon as the currants bloom, the film will need to be removed so that beneficial insects can get to the surface.

At the same time (before flowering), the currant should be sprayed with Karbotsin, Iskra or Inta-CM against gall midges, aphids, sawflies and leaf rollers, but since one treatment will not be enough, you will have to spray the currants with these preparations twice more - immediately after flowering and after harvesting .

After flowering, if you find anthracnose, septoria or powdery mildew on black currants, you need to treat the bushes with Strobi, Vectra or Cumulus, and Topaz, Thiovit Jet or colloidal sulfur will cope with American powdery mildew (provided that the air temperature is the temperature in the garden will not be lower than 18 ºC). After harvesting, it is necessary to re-treat currants against American powdery mildew.

After leaf fall and autumn pruning bushes, it is necessary to collect and destroy plant debris, after which currants should be prevented from diseases with one percent solutions Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Watering black currants

Growing black currants requires maintaining the soil in the currant plant in a loose state, which can be achieved by frequent and abundant watering, provided that it is not excessive. Lack of moisture slows down the growth of branches and shoots, and during the formation and filling of currant berries, poor or irregular soil moisture can cause them to grind and fall off.

Watering black currants is especially important in early June, during the stage of intensive growth of bushes and formation of ovaries; it is also necessary in late June and early July, during the period of fruit filling. At this time, the soil must be moistened to the depth of the entire root layer - approximately 35-45 cm. The approximate water consumption is 20-30 liters per m² of site. Water should be poured into specially made furrows along the row spacing or into grooves 10-15 cm deep, dug around each bush at a distance of 30-40 cm from its base.

After watering, loosen the soil as soon as it dries slightly. If the area is mulched, you will have to water, loosen, and weed the area much less often.

Feeding black currants

In the year of planting, if you applied fertilizer to the hole in accordance with our recommendation, black currants will not need fertilizing. From the second year of life in the spring, it will be enough to distribute 40-50 g of urea under each bush or treat the bushes with a seven percent solution before the sap begins to flow. Bushes older than 4 years are fed with urea in smaller quantities, using only 25-40 g of nitrogen fertilizer per bush, applied in two doses.

In autumn, black currants are fed with organic matter once every two years - compost, manure or bird droppings at the rate of 10-15 kg per bush. And from mineral fertilizers, 10-20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate are added to each plant. If you mulched the area with a thick layer in the spring organic fertilizer, then in the fall you don’t need to add organic matter to the soil, but if you added humus to the soil in the fall, then next spring You can skip fertilizing currants with nitrogen.

Blackcurrant pruning

When to prune blackcurrants

We have already written that it is best to carry out sanitary and formative pruning of black currants in the spring, at the end of March. But the problem is that the crop begins to vegetate very early, and pruning must be done before the buds swell. If you managed to meet the deadline in the spring, then in the fall, before the onset of the dormant period, carry out only sanitary pruning.

Pruning black currants in spring

As we have already written, all branches of newly planted seedlings are shortened, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on each.

On bushes of the second year of life, during spring pruning, 3 to 5 of the most developed zero shoots are left - they will become the first skeletal branches of the currant bush. The remaining shoots are removed. In mid-summer, the skeletal shoots are shortened by pinching them into two buds - this manipulation promotes the intensive formation of fruit branches and the growth of new zero shoots. Thus, the bush is formed correctly and the harvest grows.

In the third and fourth years of life, from the growing zero shoots, from 3 to 6 of the most promising ones are left, and the rest are cut out. The tops of last year's shoots are shortened. On each branch of the skeletal branches, 2-4 buds are left. By the end of the fourth year, the blackcurrant bush can be considered mature.

In the fifth and sixth years, old branches appear on the blackcurrant, and the bush needs rejuvenating pruning, in which five- to six-year-old branches are cut off at the very surface. Otherwise, when pruning, they adhere to the same scheme:

• branches of the second, third and fourth years are shortened along all branches, leaving no more than 4 buds at each end;
• the tops of last year's shoots are shortened;
• from the zero shoots of the current year, from 3 to 5 of the strongest and most developed ones are left, the rest are cut out.

Pruning black currants in autumn

If you managed to carry out full pruning in the spring, in the fall you will only have to cut out dry, broken, diseased and improperly growing branches and shoots, that is, carry out thinning and sanitary pruning. If you didn’t manage to tidy up the bush in the spring, do it in the fall, after all the leaves have fallen from the currants.

Dry branches can be removed from the bush at any time of the year. It is best to pinch the tops in mid-July.

Propagation of black currant

How to propagate black currants

Black currant propagates vegetatively - by layering, green and lignified cuttings, as well as by dividing the bush. Seed propagation black currant is also possible, but the offspring may not completely inherit the characteristics of the variety, and besides, vegetative methods give faster and more reliable results.

Propagation of black currant by cuttings

This is the most common way. Currant cuttings are prepared from annual basal shoots or shoots of the first order of branching. The thickness of the cuttings should be at least 7 mm, and the length should be 15-20 cm. Using a sterile pruning shears or knife, cut the cuttings 1-1.5 above the bud. It is better to do this at the end of September or at the beginning of November, when the bush has already entered the dormant period. That same fall, blackcurrant cuttings are planted in the ground, but if planting is postponed until spring, the ends of the cuttings are dipped in liquid paraffin or garden varnish, after which the planting material is tied and wrapped in wet paper, then in polyethylene and buried in the snow or put in the refrigerator until spring. Before planting, the lower end with paraffin is carefully cut off obliquely.

In spring, cuttings are planted as early as possible, as soon as the ground warms up to 8-9 ºC. They are placed in the ground at an angle of 45º, deep enough so that only 1-2 buds remain above the surface. After planting, the cuttings are watered and the area is mulched with humus, peat or sawdust. Arches up to half a meter high are installed over the bed and polyethylene is thrown over them, which is removed as soon as the first leaves appear. Once the cuttings have taken root and released their first leaves, they begin to be watered regularly, under no circumstances allowing the soil to dry out even briefly.

In the summer, the bed with the cuttings is weeded, fertilized with a solution of mullein with ash and superphosphate, and in the fall, provided that the seedlings grow to a height of 30-50 cm and they develop 1-2 shoots, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

You can also propagate black currants green cuttings, however, this is a more complex method, carried out only if you have a greenhouse or greenhouse with a fogging function.

Reproduction of black currant by layering

This is the simplest and most reliable of the vegetative propagation methods, since it allows you to obtain seedlings with a well-developed root system in one year. In early spring, select a healthy two-year-old branch growing obliquely on the periphery of the bush, bend it to the ground, and place its middle part in a pre-dug groove 10-12 cm deep so that the top 20-30 cm long remains on the surface.

Secure the cuttings in the groove with wire, fill the furrow with soil and water regularly during the growing season. By autumn, the cuttings will develop a powerful root system, produce 2-3 thick branches, and it can be cut off from the mother bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

Propagation of black currant by dividing the bush

You need to divide the currant bush in spring or autumn when replanting. The bush is dug up, carefully releasing the roots from the ground, and divided into several parts with an ax or saw, having previously sterilized the tool. Each division should have well-developed shoots and roots. Cut out old, diseased branches and roots, and shorten young branches to 20-30 cm, then treat the cuts with charcoal and plant parts of the bush in prepared holes in the manner that we described to you earlier.

After planting, seedlings require abundant watering. The division will yield a harvest only after a year, since the root system, injured by division, needs time to recover from the shock.

Blackcurrant diseases

Among the diseases that can affect currants fungal diseases anthracnose, white spot, goblet or columnar rust, powdery mildew, gray mold, shoot dieback and nectar shoot dieback.

But viral diseases for which there is no cure are much more dangerous for black currants. These include black mosaic and terry, or reversion.

Pests of black currant

Pests that can affect blackcurrants include currant glassfly, blackcurrant fruit, palelegged and yellow gooseberry sawflies, biennial leafroller, gooseberry moth, gooseberry shoot and leaf gall aphid, gooseberry moth, spider and currant bud mites and currant gall midges.

As you have probably already noticed, black currants and gooseberries have the same insect pests, and they also have common diseases. That is why we have dedicated a separate article entitled “Diseases and Pests of Gooseberries” to a description of these enemies, as well as ways to get rid of them.

Blackcurrant varieties

Today, more than two hundred varieties of black currant have been cultivated, and among them it is very difficult to find two or three exactly the ones you need. We will try to divide the varieties into groups, in accordance with the requests of our readers, to make it easier for you to make your choice.

Large varieties of black currants

Large-fruited varieties of black currant are those whose berries weigh more than 1.5 g. The most famous varieties of large-fruited currant are:

• Vigorous– black currant of this variety has fruits whose weight reaches 8 g. The skin of the fruit is dense, the flesh is fleshy, sweet, juicy. The ripening period is medium late - in the third ten days of July. The disadvantage of this variety is that it reproduces poorly and is not resistant to powdery mildew, and it needs to be rejuvenated frequently;
• Dobrynya- large black currant, the weight of the berries reaches 7 g. The ripening period is average - the second half of July. Dobrynya is distinguished by its winter hardiness, early fruiting and resistance to powdery mildew;
• Selechenskaya-2– productive, winter-hardy and powdery mildew-resistant variety early maturation with berries weighing up to 6 g of sweet and sour taste.

Sweet varieties of black currants

The sweetest varieties of blackcurrant are:

• Nina– consistently productive, winter-hardy, self-fertile and sweet early ripening black currant, resistant to powdery mildew, with large berries diameter up to 13 mm. Unfortunately, the variety is not resistant to leaf mite and bud mite;
• Bagheera– resistant to change environment, precocious and winter-hardy variety with large sweet berries almost completely without acid, characterized by good gelling. The disadvantage of the variety is its instability to pests and diseases - anthracnose, powdery mildew and bud mite;
• Green haze– early-fruiting, winter-hardy and highly productive variety medium ripening with aromatic sweet berries. The variety is affected by bud mites.

Sweet varieties are also Izyumnaya, Otlichitsa, Perun and Dobrynya.

Early varieties of black currant

Early ripening blackcurrant varieties ripen in early July, and since the harvest from these bushes ends before the heat sets in, they are not afraid of most of the diseases and pests that plague later varieties. Early currants are represented by the following varieties:

• Dove seedling– an extremely early variety with small berries weighing from 1 g to 1.5 g, which crack when overripe;
• The Little Prince– a self-fertile and early-fruiting variety that produces up to 6 kg of juicy, almost black berries with a sweet and sour taste per bush;
• curiosity– a winter-hardy, self-fertile, productive variety that does not tolerate drought well, but is resistant to powdery mildew. The berries are oval, medium in size, with thick skin, sweet and sour.

Medium varieties of black currants

Mid-season blackcurrant produces a harvest from mid-July. Among the most famous varieties of medium ripening are the following:

• Titania- a variety resistant to powdery mildew with berries of different sizes, sweet and sour taste, with durable skin and greenish pulp. The berries do not ripen at the same time, so the harvest may take longer;
• Black pearl– a consistently productive, self-fertile and very frost-resistant variety for universal use with one-dimensional berries weighing up to 1.5 g. The variety is not resistant to powdery mildew;
• Bolero– self-fertile, early-fruiting, productive and frost-resistant variety, resistant to anthracnose and powdery mildew, with large, aromatic oval or round berries weighing up to 2.5 g with a sweet and sour taste.

Late varieties of black currant

Late blackcurrant varieties include those that ripen in August. It is the berries of late-ripening varieties that are best stored frozen and processed. The most famous varieties:

• Vologda– a productive, large-fruited, disease-resistant variety with high self-fertility and winter hardiness, but is damaged during spring frosts. The berries are sweet and sour, large, with a dry detachment, weighing up to 2.2 g;
• Daughter– a productive self-fertile and drought-resistant variety for universal use, resistant to bud mite. Berries with dry detachment, large, sweet and sour taste, weighing up to 2.5 g;
• Lazy– a self-fertile, winter-hardy, blight- and anthracnose-resistant variety with round, large berries and a sweet taste. Disadvantages of the variety include prolonged fruit ripening and unstable yields.

The varieties Venus, Natasha, Rusalka, Katyusha, Kipiana and others are also popular.

The highest scores for taste - above 4.5 points - are given to blackcurrant varieties considered dessert. The best black currants are the varieties Selechenskaya, Selechenskaya-2, Venus, Nadiya, Centaur, Perun, Pygmy, Oryol Waltz, Slastena, Tisel, Nestor Kozin, Black Boomer, Pearl, Legend, Izyumnaya, Lazy, Ben-lomond.

Blackcurrant varieties for the Moscow region

When asked by readers whether black currants can be grown in areas with cold winters, we can answer with a clear conscience: yes! Among the blackcurrant varieties there are many winter-hardy ones that tolerate winter temperatures. Black currants for the Moscow region are represented by the following varieties:

• Paulinka– a mid-season, productive, winter-hardy variety with thin-skinned, small and sour berries. Disadvantage: susceptible to fungal diseases;
• Izmailovskaya– also a mid-season variety, but the berries of Izmailovskaya blackcurrant have a thick aroma, large, sweet and sour taste;
• Belarusian sweet– a variety resistant to cold and disease with medium-sized but very sweet berries. Despite the fact that ripening is extended over time, the berries do not fall off the bushes.

In addition to those described, the varieties Karelskaya, Moskovskaya, Pygmey, Exotika, Selechenskaya-2, Detskoselskaya and others grow well in the Moscow region.

Black currants can also be grown in cooler areas. For example, in the Urals the currant varieties Nina, Kent, Rhapsody, Pamyat Michurina, Dashkovskaya, Sibilla grow well, and in Siberia - Minusinka, Hercules, Lucia, Zagadka and Buraya.

Properties of black currant

Beneficial properties of black currant

Black currant fruits are considered a source of health - so much useful substances For human body is included in their composition. Blackcurrant berries contain vitamins C, B1, B2, B6, B9, D, A, E, K and P, pectin, essential oil, sugars, carotenoids, phosphoric and organic acids, potassium salts, iron and phosphorus. And the leaves, in addition to phytoncides, vitamin C and essential oil, contain sulfur, lead, silver, copper, manganese and magnesium.

The amount of vitamins and other useful substances in black currant is much higher than in any other berries, which is why it is a product healthy eating, helping to strengthen the body, increase immunity and enhance the therapeutic effect in the fight against diseases. Black currant is indicated for Alzheimer's disease, diabetes, malignant tumors, problems with the cardiovascular system and vision. Eating currant berries is beneficial for progressive atherosclerosis, kidney, respiratory tract and liver diseases.

Due to the anthocyanidins they contain, blackcurrant berries have anti-inflammatory and disinfectant properties that help the body cope with sore throat - currant juice, diluted with water, gargles a sore throat.

A decoction of black currant berries is useful for anemia, hypertension, bleeding gums, stomach ulcers, duodenal ulcers and gastritis. A mixture of currant juice and honey is used to treat severe coughs.

By rubbing the pulp of the berries into the skin, you can make freckles and age spots less noticeable, and by rubbing it into the cuticles and nail plates, you will make your nails stronger and more beautiful.

Black currant leaves also have medicinal properties, which many are happy to add to tea, marinades and brines. The leaves contain more vitamin C than the berries, so decoctions, infusions and teas have tonic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, diuretic, cleansing and antirheumatic properties. Preparations from the leaves are used for gastritis, cardiovascular diseases, gout, and externally for dermatitis and exudative diathesis.

Both decoctions and infusions can be prepared from both fresh raw materials and dried blackcurrant leaves. From young leaves in spring you can prepare a vitamin drink that strengthens the body: dilute any sour juice with boiled water, pour this mixture over currant leaves for a day, then strain, add a little honey if you want and drink half a glass a day.

From the leaves you can make wonderful and healthy blackcurrant vinegar, a few drops of which will add taste and aroma to any dish: pour fresh blackcurrant leaves with cold sugar syrup (100g of sugar per 1 liter of water), cover the container with gauze and leave to ferment for 2 months, then strain and bottle it in dark glass bottles.

Black currant - contraindications

Due to the high content of phenolic compounds and vitamin K in black currants, it is contraindicated for thrombophlebitis - long-term consumption of berries can lead to increased blood clotting. Fresh blackcurrant berries and juice from them are not beneficial for high acidity of the stomach, ulcers and hyperacid gastritis. Fresh berries and their juice are not recommended after a stroke, heart attack or with developing thrombosis.

Pure, undiluted blackcurrant juice can cause allergies in children, but when diluted in small quantities it helps increase hemoglobin levels in the blood. It is not advisable to consume blackcurrant juice during pregnancy.

For healthy people, to get the required amount of vitamin C, it is enough to eat only 20 black currants daily.

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After this article they usually read

Black currant is a pearl among fruit bushes. This is one of those crops that are completely unpretentious to external conditions, but at the same time priceless in their properties. In the wild, it grows in Europe, Siberia, the Urals, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China. IN agriculture it is cultivated everywhere, since even with the most minimal care the shrub can produce a good harvest.

Black currant is a perennial shrub whose height varies from 0.5 to 2 meters. Young shoots have a pale green color, which gradually changes to brown. The leaves are jagged, three- and five-lobed with an elongated central part, reminiscent of maple leaves.

Most varieties have bisexual flowers, which means the shrubs are self-pollinating. Flowering and fruiting extends to the entire shoot from bottom to top. The root system is fibrous.

The fruit is a sweet and sour berry, the taste of which depends on the variety. Fruiting begins the next year after planting; about half a kilogram of berries can be collected. Peak yield occurs after 4-5 years, then the weight of the harvested fruits can reach up to 7-8 kg.

The name of the culture came to us with Ancient Rus'. "Currant" - strong smell, aroma. Of all the fruit bushes, only black currant noticeably spreads its fragrance.

Landing Features

Currants are quite unpretentious - it is not difficult to plant and care for them. It is known that on many summer cottages it grows on its own and at the same time gives a very good harvest. But it’s still better to protect the shrub from unfavorable conditions and give it everything it needs. As always, planting activities begin with choosing the most suitable location.

Suitable place

First of all, the area for currants must be well lit so that shading is present for no more than half of the daylight hours. If the terrain of the area is uneven, then you can plant shrubs on southern slopes, taking into account the prevailing winds. It is good if there is wind protection, especially for those varieties that tend to shed berries as they ripen.

Culture grows on different types soils, although it prefers loamy soils. The main thing is that the area is fertile with an acidity closer to neutral. There should be no waterlogging, but good moisture is necessary. Black currants can be planted in the garden among young trees. The bush will grow together with its neighbors and at the same time receive ideal diffused lighting.

In the wild, black currants can be found in floodplains and in gorges among wild fruit bushes. It grows well in mountainous areas.

Time to board

The best time for planting fruit bushes is autumn, around the end of September, mid-October. The soil still retains heat, and there is enough time before frost to take root and prepare for winter.

Spring plantings are also acceptable, but less preferable. It is more difficult to choose the time, since you need to have time to plant the bush after the end of frost, but before the start of the seasonal growing season. In this case, seedlings growing in containers will come to the rescue. Then the rooting process will go faster and without stress for the plant.

Currant vegetation begins at a temperature of 3-6°C. The best temperature for growth is 18-20°C.

Soil preparation

The place where black currants will grow begins to be prepared three to four weeks before planting the bushes. To do this, remove all weeds along with their roots and, if necessary, level the area. Special attention pay attention to the growth of wheatgrass; currants do not like it very much.

The soil is dug up to 30 cm, having previously scattered 5-8 kg/m2 of organic fertilizer (ready-made humus or 3-4 tbsp. phosphorus and 1.5-2 tbsp. potassium fertilizer. Usually they take phosphate or superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ash (40 g/m2). The main thing is the absence of chlorine.

If the land on the site is depleted, the amount of fertilizer is increased by one and a half times; for fertile land, on the contrary, it is reduced by half. Acidic soils(Ph below 5.5) must be limed, adding 400-500 g/m2 of lime during autumn work. Such soil preparation is necessary for both autumn and spring planting of black currant seedlings.

The process of planting black currants

The crop is planted in a pre-dug hole 40-50 cm deep and approximately the same diameter. The hole is filled 2/3 with fertile soil, half a bucket of water is poured out and the seedling is placed in it vertically or at an angle of 45° - this work is best done with an assistant. It is necessary to ensure that the depth of the seedling is 5-7 cm above its root collar.

At what angle to plant is up to the gardener to decide. But inclined planting promotes intensive root growth and the formation of a large number of annual (zero) shoots. The bush becomes more powerful.

When planting, the roots of the plant are carefully straightened and sprinkled with soil, carefully compacting it. Then a furrow is made around the bush, where the remaining water is poured. After this, the area is covered with sawdust or peat.

The planting technology remains the same for spring work, with the only exception: all branches of the seedling are cut off, leaving 2-3 well-developed buds on each shoot.

What should the seedlings be like?

When choosing planting material you need to rely on its appearance and general condition:

• there are no signs of damage to the seedling by pests and diseases;
• the seedling is “fresh”, as indicated by the green, moist texture under the bark;
• the root system is developed, reaching a depth of 30-35 cm;
• The bark of the shoots is smooth, without wrinkled areas.

During transportation, the roots must be wrapped in a damp cloth or cellophane. You need to plant it right away, but if this is not possible, you can temporarily bury the seedling at an angle in the ground and water it. This way he can survive for several weeks.

Blackcurrant care

Trimming Features

ABOUT pruning is carried out every spring before the seasonal sap flow. If this was not done on time, the procedure can be postponed until autumn, when the leaves fall from the bush.

The very first pruning is carried out after planting, when all the shoots are cut off. Subsequently, diseased, damaged branches, as well as damaged buds, are removed with sharp, disinfected pruners. kidney mite. If there are too many of these buds, cut off the entire branch to the base.

In the second year, 4-5 annual shoots are left untouched, which will become the basis of the bush. In mid-July, they are pinched out for a couple of buds, which will increase the growth of the plant.

In the next two years, larger cuttings are carried out, leaving only 4-6 of the strongest branches. All young shoots are removed, and the tops of old ones are shortened. The tops of the side shoots on the branches are also pinched. This contributes correct formation bush.

In the fifth or sixth year of life, anti-aging pruning is already necessary. To do this, cut off all the old branches and leave 4-5 of the strongest young ones. The tops of last year's branches are removed.

Watering and loosening

Black currants need regular watering. Then it will grow well and give excellent harvest. For convenience, you can summarize drip irrigation. If this is not possible, moisten the soil about once a week, pouring 2-3 buckets of water under the bush to moisten the soil to a depth of 35-40 cm.

It is good if watering is carried out with settled rainwater. This should be done in the morning or evening, trying to prevent water from getting on the shoots. To do this, make a furrow around the bush. After the soil dries out a little, it will need to be loosened by 5-6 cm and mulched. If necessary, remove weeds. The shrub requires moisture throughout the growing season, including in autumn.

Top dressing

If the soil is well prepared before planting, then you do not need to feed the currants for the first two years. For the next two years in the spring, apply nitrogen fertilizer in the form of urea or ammonium nitrate at a rate of 40-50 g per bush. In the future, this number is halved.

Dry mineral fertilizers are scattered around the bush at a distance of 15-20 cm from it, after which the ground is loosened and watered. Liquid fertilizers put into the grooves made around the bush.

In the fall, ready-made humus or bird droppings are good feeding - 5-6 kg per bush. Also add 4-5 tbsp. superphosphate and 1-2 tbsp. potassium sulfate. This is a standard set of fertilizers that provides the plant with everything it needs. Autumn feeding can be paid once every two years.

Foliar feeding not only nourishes the plant, but also increases its resistance to diseases and pests. It is carried out 2 times - during the flowering period and the filling of berries. To do this, take any complex fertilizers, which are pre-diluted in water according to the rate indicated on the package. Or use manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8.

Diseases and pests

When choosing a blackcurrant seedling variety, you need to focus on its resistance to diseases and pests. Among the cultural diseases there are the following:

The main fight against the problem is carried out with the help of fungicides, such as Fitosporin-M, Fundazol and others. As a preventative measure, the crop can be irrigated with a 1% solution 4 times per season. It is also necessary to carry out sanitary pruning of currants in the spring, and carefully remove all fallen leaves every autumn. One of the preventive measures is spring watering bush hot water 80°C before active sap flow begins.

Known pests include:

Insecticides are used to control pests, for example Karbofos, Fitoverm, Iskra Bio and others.

Propagation of black currant

Currants are propagated only by the best and, most importantly, healthy varieties. They do this in three ways:

Dividing the bush

To do this, the bush is hilled high in the spring and watered regularly during the summer. If necessary, add soil. In the fall, after shedding its leaves, the bush will be ready for propagation - using a sterilized tool, divide it into two or three parts so that each has well-developed roots and shoots. The separated bushes are immediately planted in a permanent place. They will begin to bear fruit in a year.

By layering

Take the healthiest two-year-old branch growing close to the ground, and dig its middle part to a depth of 10-12 cm in a pre-dug and fertilized area. Add drops so that the tip of the shoot, 30 cm long, remains on the surface. The layer is secured to the ground using a bracket. During the summer, it is actively watered and, if necessary, hilled up and weeds are removed. By autumn, it will develop a root system and 2-3 young shoots will appear. Then it can be separated and planted in a new place.

Cuttings

To propagate by cuttings, a strong young shoot 7-8 cm thick is cut with a sterile instrument into pieces 20 cm long so that the lower cut is oblique and the upper cut is straight. The work is carried out in mid-autumn, when the bush is prepared for winter. The resulting shrubs are left in water overnight, and the next day they are planted in prepared soil using the technology for adult shrubs.

If planting is postponed until spring, you can plant the cuttings in cups with substrate. In the spring they will already have a developed root system, ready to grow in open ground.

Variety of black currants

Crop varieties are divided mainly according to ripening time and quality of berries. In Russia there are about two hundred of them, but no more than 10-15 species are usually offered for sale on the regional market. This is due to the fact that not all shrubs are adapted to local conditions, so sellers offer adapted young seedlings.

Most currant varieties are self-pollinating, but they get along well with each other. Their joint landing significantly increases the yield and quality of fruits.

Early ripening varieties

They bloom in May and produce a ripe harvest within 1.5-2 months. The exact timing depends on the weather conditions of the region, and therefore it would be more correct to say that in early currant varieties the period between flowering and ripening is much shorter than in other types.

For cold climates early ripening varieties fit perfectly - the fruits have time to ripen and gain sweetness.

The most prominent representatives of this group are considered Exotica, Selechinskaya 2, Summer Resident, Little Prince, Blueberry Seedling, Dikovinka, Izyuminka and others.

Mid-season varieties

They harvest around mid to late July. For many gardeners this is the most suitable option for growing in the country.

The harvest time coincides with other crops, which allows for combined home harvesting with currants for the winter.

Mid-season varieties are called Delicatessen, Black Pearl, Dobrynya, Perun, Azhurnaya, Titania, Bolero and others.

Late ripening varieties

The fruits of late varieties ripen in August, and they are best suited for freezing and canning.

In addition, planting late varieties allows you to enjoy this tasty and healthy berry longer.

Late-ripening varieties include Bagira, Lentyay, Yadrenaya, Venus, Katyusha, Vologda, etc.

The best varieties

It is known that the most large currants grows in Siberia, where it was bred - this is the Yadrenaya variety. The size of its fruits in its homeland is up to 8 g. However, when planted in warmer areas, the variety loses its qualities, producing smaller fruits and acquiring a sour taste.

Large-fruited varieties are also called:

• Dobrynya with berries up to 7 g and yield per bush up to 6 kg;
• Selechenskaya 2 with fruits up to 5 g and yield up to 5 kg;
• Lazy, which has fruits of 4-5 g and a yield of up to 2.2 kg.

In terms of taste, the best indicators are for dessert varieties with a score above 4.5 points: Centaur, Perun, Delicatessen, Selechenskaya, Venus, Slastena, Izyumnaya.

By choosing the most successful varieties for your plot, you can not only make preparations for the winter, but also put up for sale their berries, which are always in demand. The main thing is not to forget that, despite its unpretentiousness, black currants, like any other crop, require attention and care.

Oxalis berry is a red currant, a very famous deciduous shrub. Currants are very often grown in summer cottages. With her landing and further cultivation Even novice gardeners can do it. At proper care From one red currant bush you can collect up to ten kilograms of berries. Oxalis bushes are very viable and grow in one place for up to twenty-five years.

Varieties of red currants

The ripening period of sorrel, care and planting in open ground depend on the variety, soil and climate in the cultivation area. A huge variety of plant varieties makes it possible to make a choice to suit every taste.

Although most are considered self-fertile, gardeners recommend growing several varieties to improve yield and cross-pollination. The taste of sorrel depends on the amount of sugar and organic acids in the fruit. Sweet varieties have a pronounced sweetness and a slightly sour taste. These include:

• "early sweet";
• "sugar";
• "Vetch";
• "Dutch pink";
• "viksne";
• "pink pearl"

As a rule, most red currant varieties are cold-resistant. However, among them there are frost-resistant forms suitable for planting in places with harsh winters. Frost-resistant varieties include the following:

• "Natalie";
• "Jonker van Tets";
• “beloved”;
• “red Andreichenko”;
• "Dutch red"

Large-fruited varieties:

• "Ural beauty";
• "ilinka";
• "cascade";
• "roland";
• "alpha".

If you plant bushes of early ripening, mid-ripening and late ripening on the site, then you will feast on the fruits of red currants all summer long.

Planting currants in autumn

Oxalis berries can be planted both in spring and autumn. This plant is not recommended to be grown in areas after gooseberries, as well as after uprooting old sorrel bushes. With the classic method of bush growing, plants are planted at a distance of one meter from each other and with a row spacing of two and a half meters. In the Urals and Siberia, planting is best done at the end of August.

In the southern regions, red currants are planted from mid-September to the first week of October. The main guideline for planting a plant is considered to be a steady cooling. Red currants need to be planted about a month before the cold weather. Bushes are best placed in open, sunny and well-ventilated areas. This will help reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Currants are an unpretentious crop and adapt well to harsh climatic conditions.

Planting currants in spring

In spring, red currants must be planted before active sap flow begins. Planting of seedlings should be done in a hole 40 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter, this will allow the root system to be well placed. As a top dressing, you can use ten liters of compost or manure with the addition of fifty grams of superphosphate, the same amount of potassium chloride and a little wood ash. In the middle part of the country, the soil and climate are excellent for planting and growing red currants. Therefore, the bush will not cause much trouble for gardeners.

Watering

Timely watering is considered the key to a rich harvest. Thanks to its developed root system, sorrel is resistant to drought. Lack of water primarily affects the growth, development and fruiting of the plant.

Therefore, during the period of growth and ripening of berries, regular moistening is necessary, allowing the soil to be saturated with moisture to a depth of 50-60 cm. One bush requires about two buckets of water, which is poured into grooves dug at a distance of about 30 cm from the plant.

Fertilizer application

The first two years after planting the oxalis bush, fertilizing is not required if the planting and application technology is followed. required quantity feeding into the planting hole. At the beginning of the spring, as soon as the shoots begin to grow, twenty grams of urea or thirty grams of ammonium nitrate are added to each bush.

After flowering, it is advisable to feed it with organic matter: an aqueous solution based on bird droppings (1:20) or mullein (1:10). A bucket of this solution is placed under the currant bush. In addition, red currants can be fed with complex mineral fertilizers at the rate of twenty grams per square meter. In late autumn it needs mineral and organic fertilizers.

Pests of red currant:

• The currant borer feeds on the pith of wood sorrel branches. To combat it, it is recommended to cut out and burn the shoots, and it is also necessary to carefully select planting material.
• Spider mites damage red currant leaves. To destroy, immediately after flowering, the bushes are treated with Fitoverm at the rate of two milliliters per liter of water.
• Currant bud moth damages buds and oxalis. When bushes are infected, it is necessary to cut out damaged shoots at the root and burn them.
• The gooseberry moth is a fairly common pest that attacks currant berries. If early colored berries are found, long before ripening, they should be collected and destroyed. It is also recommended to dig up the soil around the bush in the autumn.
• The pale-legged sawfly typically damages wood sorrel leaves. In spring and summer, it is necessary to remove the larvae from the leaves of the bush, and also spray it with a decoction of tobacco and wormwood.
• The gooseberry moth eats the leaf blade, as well as the veins of the bushes. To combat it, you should use a tincture of chamomile, a decoction of shag and tobacco.
• Currant glassberry is one of the most dangerous pests. It damages the core of the branches, as a result of which they dry out and die. To avoid this, it is necessary to prune the bushes in early spring, while the buds are dormant. In addition, the soil and bushes can be treated with Fitoverm.
• Shoot aphids are also very common. To combat this pest, you should spray the bushes with a ten percent solution of Karbofos until the buds open.

Oxalis diseases

Another problem for gardeners is red currant diseases. Both treatment and signs of diseases are described below.

• Powdery mildew is quite rare. When infected, it forms white coating on young leaves and fruits. To combat it, you need to spray red currants with a solution of pharmaceutical iodine. With timely treatment, the disease can be defeated fairly quickly.
• Anthracnose - fungal disease, the development of which is favored by a humid climate. When found dark spots It is recommended to use fungicides.
• White spotting is considered quite common; it causes leaves to fall, bush growth stops and crops die. To treat sorrel berries, it is necessary to treat them with copper sulfate. For preventative purposes, monitor soil moisture and promptly remove fallen leaves, as well as dig up the soil in autumn and early spring.
• Columnar and goblet rust. With these diseases, bright orange growths form. It is treated with fungicides, and the plant can also be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Pruning red currant bushes

When growing shrubs, it is important to know how to prune currants correctly. There is formative and sanitary pruning. Red currants should be pruned at the beginning of the autumn period, as well as after harvesting.

Remove old, broken, diseased branches and unnecessary shoots. In the spring, you can carry out sanitary pruning. You cannot cut off the tops of branches where there are a large number of berry branches. A well-formed plant has approximately twenty branches.

Beneficial properties of red currants

Eating currant fruits helps absorb animal proteins, improves appetite, and also relieves constipation. Oxalis berries contain a special substance - oxycoumarin, which has an excellent effect on blood clotting. In addition, the fruits contain a large amount of iron, which increases hemoglobin, and also regulates water-salt balance and normalizes heart function. Red currant fruits are an excellent remedy for the prevention of cardiovascular diseases.

The pectins contained in sorrel fruits prevent inflammatory processes and remove harmful substances. Red currant strengthens the immune system. Mors or juice from the fruits of sorrel is used for nausea and toxicosis in pregnant women. Red currants are an excellent source of energy, as the fruit contains a complex of B vitamins and sugars. Regular consumption of fruit drink made from sorrel berries normalizes the level of hemoglobin in the blood. Useful properties red currant leaves have a diuretic and bactericidal effect. Oxalis leaves also contain ascorbic acid. The great advantage of red currant is that it can be eaten by allergy sufferers, but if you have poor blood clotting, ulcers, or hemophilia, it is better to avoid it.

In conclusion

Oxalis (currant) has been called the berry of health since ancient times; it is for this reason that the plant has become widespread in summer cottages.

Caring for currants is not difficult, but you need to pay attention to timely watering, fertilizing, pruning and protection from pests. If you follow all the rules, red currants will delight you a bountiful harvest for many years.

Of all the varieties of currants, black currants are considered the most healthy and aromatic. But for the plant to flourish and make you happy good harvest, it is important to follow simple rules of care and know little tricks when planting it. Below we will talk in detail about where, how and when it is best to plant blackcurrant seedlings, as well as about the features of pruning and fertilizing this berry bush.

What to consider when landing?

Planting black currants is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right time and place for planting, as well as prepare the soil. First, let's discuss the features of the soil that is optimal for black currants.

Priming

Loamy soils are ideal for currants. It grows poorly in acidic and swampy areas, so additional preparatory work will be required there. To reduce acidity, you must first add slaked lime or wood ash to the ground when digging in spring or autumn.

Lighting

In order for the bush to bear fruit well and the berries to be ripe and sweet, the plant needs a lot of sun. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, you should give preference to well-lit areas of the garden.

Distance

Currants tend to grow into large and wide bushes, and this is good, because the larger the bush, the more berries it contains. Large bushes, as a rule, have a well-branched root system, which means they need sufficient distance between plants. It is recommended to plant them in rows, with a distance between them of at least 1.8 meters, and between bushes in a row - at least 70 centimeters. Then the plants will have enough space and nutrients.

Pre-fertilizer

Fertilizer can be applied both in the fall, when preparing the site, and immediately before planting currants. In the second case, it is better to do this one to one and a half weeks in advance, so that minerals managed to soak into the soil and did not burn the roots of the plant. In the most urgent case, fertilizer can be applied a couple of days before planting and mixed well with the substrate. It is risky to place fertilizer directly into the holes, as it can seriously damage the roots.

Fertilizers can be either organic (humus, manure, chicken droppings) or mineral - complex or containing one of the necessary minerals, such as phosphorus, potassium or nitrogen.

Disembarkation time

The most favorable time for planting is late autumn, about two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather. Usually, black currants are planted in the fall in late October - early November.

When planting in spring, it is important not to miss the right moment - currants are one of the first to bloom, so they need to be planted as early as possible.

Planting: a step-by-step guide

The first thing we do is form a hole in the selected place in the soil that has been dug up and cleared of weeds. To do this, you need to dig a hole up to half a meter deep and the width corresponding to the size of the root system. If you decide to apply fertilizer to the hole itself, then do it and wait another week. When planting in spring, you need to start preparing the hole in the fall.

Now you can start planting. It is important that the roots of the plant are kept moist before and during planting. It is best to put the roots in water 2-3 hours before planting so that they are saturated with water.

It doesn’t matter whether you plant a thin twig or a small bush, you need to do it at an angle. Place the plant in the hole somewhere at an angle of 60 degrees, so that the three lower buds end up in the ground. This planting will help the bush become wider and produce more shoots.

Having sprinkled the roots with soil, you need to slightly compact (but not compact!) the top layer of soil and water the bush generously. The above-ground part of the shoot must be cut off, leaving only the three lower buds. This pruning will prevent premature aging of the bush.

Above we discussed how blackcurrant seedlings are planted . But there is another way to propagate this plant - by cuttings.

To do this, we will need cuttings with three to four buds, 18-20 cm long. They need to be cut in spring or autumn.

Then they are planted in prepared and weed-free soil, with a distance of 12-15 centimeters between them. Only one bud is left above the ground. Planting blackcurrant cuttings is a common way to propagate the plant.

Currant care

It’s not enough to plant correctly black currant, because without proper care, even the strongest plant can die. That's why it's not only important correct landing, but also care.

Watering

Currants love moisture very much, so timely watering is the basis for the prosperity of the bush on your site. Watering is especially important when the berries are ripening - then they will be large and juicy. Otherwise, even with abundant flowering, you can get wrinkled, small and sour berries.
True, it is also important to observe moderation here - too much watering on loamy soils can lead to rotting of the roots.

Loosening and mulching

Loosening is no less important. By keeping the top layer of soil loose, you ensure that the plant's roots receive enough oxygen. It is also good to remove weeds.

Mulching (covering) the top layer of soil will retain as much moisture as possible and prevent weeds from germinating. You can use hay, newspapers, chopped weed tops, tomatoes, fallen leaves, etc. as mulch. Do not use foliage from walnuts and pine sawdust, as they can worsen the properties of the soil. When using newspapers as mulch, you need to remember that during flowering they need to be removed, because during this period insects beneficial to the plant come to the surface.

Fertilizer

Black currants need to be fed not only in spring, but also in important stages seasonal life of the plant: flowering and formation of berries. You can use chicken manure, ash or ash dissolved in water as a feed. complex fertilizer in granules. When using the latter, it is better to cover the granules with a layer of soil or mulch.

Trimming

It is best to prune bushes in late fall or early spring. This achieves three important goals - thinning the bush, rejuvenation and removal of diseased shoots.

Thinning will allow you to keep the bush not thickened, provide good access to sunlight to all shoots, and therefore better ripening of the berries. To do this, about 20 percent of the shoots are removed from the middle of the bush. The need for thinning can be easily determined visually.

Rejuvenation of the bush is carried out by removing old branches. This frees up space for young shoots and the plant bears fruit longer and more efficiently.

By removing diseased shoots, you prevent infection of nearby healthy ones, and thus improve the health of the bush. Most often, diseased shoots are also easy to identify by their appearance. You can notice them even during flowering and fruiting. If there were almost no flowers and berries on the shoot, then most likely it is sick and you can safely remove it.

Common diseases of black currant:

• Anthracnose. When the disease occurs, small brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow, and then the leaves dry out. The disease can also appear on the stalks, young shoots, and petioles.
• White spotting. There are small brown spots on the leaves. Then they become white, but with a brown border. Black dots appear on the spots. When anthracnose or white leaf spot appears on black currants in April, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution) or 3% nitrafen solution. The treatment is repeated after 10 days. Then in mid-summer the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution). They also collect all the diseased fallen leaves and burn them, dig up the soil near the tree trunk to a depth of 10 cm, do this in spring or autumn.
• Glass rust. When the disease occurs, rusty growths are visible on the leaves. The disease can be transmitted from sedge. Therefore, it is necessary to eliminate all sedge. The leaves are collected and burned. Before the buds bloom, the currants are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
• Columnar rust. These are small rusty spots on the leaves. In the spring, even before the leaves bloom, the bushes are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture. Then the same composition is sprayed after picking the berries. It is recommended to spray the leaves with phytosporin.
• Striped mosaic. When the disease occurs, a grayish-yellow pattern is visible near the veins of the leaves. The disease cannot be treated; the infected bush is destroyed.
• Powdery mildew. There is a coating on the berries and shoots white. Then the color changes to brown, the berries crack. To treat the disease, cut out all diseased branches, spray the currants with a solution of 100 g of copper sulfate in a bucket of water. After 10 days, spraying is repeated. Spraying should be stopped 2 weeks before harvest.
• Terryness. When terry, the outline of the leaves changes; instead of 5, they may have 3 lobes. The leaf darkens and becomes denser, the bush blooms later, the inflorescences have lilac color. To eliminate terry, the diseased bush is destroyed.

Not only people, but also various pests love to eat currants. Therefore, it is necessary to know the “enemy in person” and be able to fight it:

• Currant aphid. To eliminate aphids, spray the branches with a soap solution or wash them. You can replace soap with ash, use 300 g per bucket of water. Make a solution of 3 tbsp. spoons of urea into a bucket of water, add potassium permanganate so that the solution is bright pink and treat the bushes. If there are a lot of aphids, then spray with Actellik, Karbofos, and Vofatox.
• Moth, glass and leaf gall midge. When affected by the moth, the berries are entangled in cobwebs, they become reddish and dry out. If the ground is mulched with a layer of 8 cm, the moth larvae will not be able to get out and will die. To eliminate moth caterpillars, spray currants with Actellik and Metaphos. Glasswort larvae gnaw out the core of the stems, and for the winter they make their way to the roots. Leaf gall midge is detected when wrinkled leaves with small bumps are visible at the top of the branches. In early spring and autumn, to eliminate leaf gall midges and glass midges, cut out old and diseased branches near the surface of the soil and burn them. Before the buds begin to bloom, spray the currants with “Aktara” or “Iskra” and add liquid soap.
• Spider mite. In early May, red-brown or whitish leaves are visible, with cobwebs underneath. To eliminate the pest, burn the leaves affected by the mite and spray the bushes with insecticides.
• Currant bud mite. These are tiny insects that crawl inside the buds and eat them. To control the pest, cut off and burn branches that show swollen buds in early spring. After flowering, treat the currants with a 1% aqueous suspension of colloidal sulfur.
• Shield. They can be detected by formations on the leaves - shields that cover the pests. To eliminate early spring and late autumn, wash the branches with a stiff brush dipped in a soap solution. Sprinkle the currants with Actellik and Fitoverm.
• Blackcurrant berry sawfly. Its larvae make their way inside the fruit. Damaged berries are larger and have a ribbed shape. Collect and burn the affected berries, mulch the ground, and dig up the soil in the fall.

More information can be found in the video: