Columnar currant planting and care. White currant: planting, care, pruning and propagation

Common diseases of black currant:

Anthracnose. When the disease occurs, small brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow, and then the leaves dry out. The disease can also appear on the stalks, young shoots, and petioles.
White spotting. There are small brown spots on the leaves. Then they become white, but with a brown border. Black dots appear on the spots. When anthracnose or white leaf spot appears on black currants in April, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution) or 3% nitrafen solution. The treatment is repeated after 10 days. Then in mid-summer the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution). They also collect all the diseased fallen leaves and burn them, dig up the soil near the tree trunk to a depth of 10 cm, do this in spring or autumn.
Glass rust. When the disease occurs, rusty growths are visible on the leaves. The disease can be transmitted from sedge. Therefore, it is necessary to eliminate all sedge. The leaves are collected and burned. Before the buds bloom, the currants are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Columnar rust. These are small rust spots on leaves. In the spring, even before the leaves bloom, the bushes are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture. Then the same composition is sprayed after picking the berries. It is recommended to spray the leaves with phytosporin.
Striped mosaic. When the disease occurs, a grayish pattern is visible near the veins of the leaves. yellow. The disease cannot be treated; the infected bush is destroyed.
Powdery mildew. There is a coating on the berries and shoots white. Then the color changes to brown, the berries crack. To treat the disease, cut out all diseased branches, spray the currants with a solution of 100 g of copper sulfate in a bucket of water. After 10 days, spraying is repeated. Spraying should be stopped 2 weeks before harvest.
Terryness. When terry, the outline of the leaves changes; instead of 5, they may have 3 lobes. The leaf darkens and becomes denser, the bush blooms later, the inflorescences have lilac color. To eliminate terry, the diseased bush is destroyed.

Not only people, but also various pests love to eat currants. Therefore, it is necessary to know the “enemy in person” and be able to fight it:

Currant aphid. To eliminate aphids, spray the branches with a soap solution or wash them. You can replace soap with ash, use 300 g per bucket of water. Make a solution of 3 tbsp. spoons of urea into a bucket of water, add potassium permanganate so that the solution is bright pink and treat the bushes. If there are a lot of aphids, then spray with Actellik, Karbofos, and Vofatox.
Moth, glass and leaf gall midge. When affected by the moth, the berries are entangled in cobwebs, they become reddish and dry out. If the ground is mulched with a layer of 8 cm, the moth larvae will not be able to get out and will die. To eliminate moth caterpillars, spray currants with Actellik and Metaphos. Glasswort larvae gnaw out the core of the stems, and for the winter they make their way to the roots. Leaf gall midge is detected when wrinkled leaves with small bumps are visible at the top of the branches. In early spring and autumn, to eliminate leaf gall midges and glass midges, cut out old and diseased branches near the surface of the soil and burn them. Before the buds begin to bloom, spray the currants with “Aktara” or “Iskra” and add liquid soap.
Spider mite. In early May, red-brown or whitish leaves are visible, with cobwebs underneath. To eliminate the pest, burn the leaves affected by the mite and spray the bushes with insecticides.
Currant bud mite. These are tiny insects that crawl inside the buds and eat them. To control the pest, cut off and burn branches that show swollen buds in early spring. After flowering, treat the currants with a 1% aqueous suspension of colloidal sulfur.
Shield. They can be detected by formations on the leaves - shields that cover the pests. To eliminate early spring and late autumn, wash the branches with a stiff brush dipped in a soap solution. Sprinkle the currants with Actellik and Fitoverm.
Blackcurrant berry sawfly. Its larvae make their way inside the fruit. Damaged berries are larger and have a ribbed shape. Collect and burn the affected berries, mulch the ground, and dig up the soil in the fall.

More information can be found in the video:

Currants belong to the gooseberry family, in which there are up to two hundred species, and about fifty are common in the Northern Hemisphere. It first appeared in Rus' in monastery gardens, then it spread throughout the country. The currant berry is popular in the gardening circle in Russia. Today, there are also white and golden currants, but still the black one is considered the most delicious and healthy. You can make jam, compotes, wines, and liqueurs from currants. Currants are also popular in medicine; they are used in the pharmaceutical industry.

All about currant bushes

Currant is a shrub plant that lives for many years. The bush can be small or voluminous, reaching a height of one to two meters. The shoots are pale green, but become brown over time. Every year new shoots appear from dormant buds. The root of the bush is powerful.

The diameter of the leaves is from 3 to 12 cm, they are green on top, and have fluff along the veins on the underside. Bell-shaped flowers are collected in hanging inflorescences.

The fruit is a delicious berry. The size and color of the berry are determined by the currant variety.

May-June is the flowering time, and the fruits can be collected in July-August.

It begins to bear fruit the next year after it was planted.

Red and black currants: planting and care

If you care for the currant bush correctly, it will bear fruit for a long time. healthy berries, more than fifteen years. Let's look at the main points on how to plant and care for currants so that they smell fragrant for as long as possible. It is better to plant currants at the very beginning of autumn, but sometimes it is possible in the spring. Seedlings for planting need two years old, with three branched roots. When purchasing, you need to carefully consider them so as not to purchase a diseased bush.

The best place for planting is where there is more sun and less wind, and the soil is not acidic and drained. If the soil is acidic, then you need to add lime from 300 to 800 g per square meter. You will also need several kilograms of organic fertilizer. When digging, you need a depth of 20 cm.

When planting currants in autumn, the pits should be 50 by 50 cm and the depth should be 45 cm. The distance between the pits is 1.5-2 meters. Humus is poured into the hole - one bucket, superphosphate 100 g and potassium chloride 45 g. All this is sprinkled with earth on top so as not to burn the root. The holes can be made and fertilized several weeks before planting. The seedlings are lowered into the hole at an angle of 45 degrees, but so that the neck of the root is 5 cm underground. In order for additional roots to form and the bush to be strong and lush, the roots must be carefully straightened. Then you need to sprinkle it with earth, press it down, water it and fill the hole completely. Then a furrow is made around the bush and water is poured into it. At the end of planting, the shoots of the seedling are cut off 10-15 cm from the ground, but it is necessary that there are 4-5 buds on the short remains.

It is necessary to plant currants in the spring until the buds on the seedlings are still closed. The disadvantage of planting in the spring is that the currants begin to grow quickly, and the ground may not yet have the temperature required for the seedling. It’s good if the hole was dug and fertilized in the fall.

How to care

Caring for currants in spring is quite simple:

If the buds were affected by the mite, then they are removed, but if a larger number of buds were affected, then the shoots are removed.
Be sure to dig up the soil around the bush and fertilize it with manure.
Currants, planting and caring for which begins in the spring, need abundant watering.
You should regularly loosen the ground under the bush and remove all weeds.
Caring for currants after harvesting for health purposes consists of spraying the bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture. The treatment should be repeated again after two weeks.
Caring for currants includes pruning all excess after winter.
In spring, plants must be treated against pests and diseases.
In May, red and black currants, the planting and care of which are discussed in this article, need to inspect the bushes for the presence of double blooms. If there are any, cut them out; if the terry growth is abundant, uproot the bush, otherwise all plants will be affected.
Caring for currants involves feeding the plant with fertilizers that contain nitrogen.

In summer, watering is especially important. At this time of year, caring for black currants also includes adding organic fertilizers to the soil. You need to monitor the condition of the bushes. Under no circumstances should the bush be treated with chemicals less than three weeks before harvest. Berries should be picked as they ripen.

In autumn, careful watering of the plant and loosening of the soil is also necessary. By the end of September, the currants are fed with fertilizers and unnecessary branches are removed. Also during this period you can plant bushes.

To this fruit crop I was able to please you with a very tasty and healthy a bountiful harvest, it should be properly looked after. Processing and caring for currants after harvesting is a very important stage in this process.

Currant pruning

Currants, planting and caring for which are not at all difficult, need pruning. If you remove everything unnecessary from the bush in time, then it will delight you with berries for many years. It is necessary to cut off diseased, damaged, and dried branches.

The most important removal occurs in the fall, when all the leaves have fallen. In the spring, shoots that were damaged during the winter, as well as dry, broken branches, are shortened. Currants, for which care after harvest is very important, are pruned in the summer to give the bush fullness. Broken, blackened stems, as well as thickening branches, are removed.

Reproduction

Propagation by cuttings.

This method of propagation is carried out from two types of cuttings - green and lignified. Lignified cuttings are the easiest and affordable way. It can be used both in autumn and spring. Cuttings must be collected before frost to preserve the buds. To preserve them until the planting season, you need to seal the ends with paraffin or varnish so that they retain moisture. Store this preparation in the cold. Such prepared cuttings are planted in early spring at an angle of 45 degrees, and there should be a distance of 15 cm between them, and 20 between the rows. The lower end of the cutting is cut obliquely and stuck into the ground so that there are two buds above the ground. The beds are watered and fertilized. The top of the cuttings is covered with polyethylene until the first leaves appear. The soil must not be allowed to dry out; it must be watered regularly. With proper care, 30-50 cm seedlings are formed by autumn. Stronger ones can be planted on permanent place, the rest should be left to grow for another year.

Propagation by green cuttings.

Such cuttings can only be grown in a greenhouse. But there is such a method. Cuttings are taken from well-developed shoots, the length of which is 5-10 cm, they are placed in water, then a root is formed. Afterwards they are planted in bags with soil. You need to water the cuttings every 2-3 days so that the soil has the consistency of cream. After a week they don't water anymore. It is necessary for the soil to become normal density. In May, cuttings are planted. The bag is cut, and the cuttings are buried in the ground, deeper than they were in the bag.

Reproduction by layering.

The simplest and reliable way. In this way, you can get healthy and strong seedlings within a year. The cutting is a healthy, obliquely growing two-year-old branch that can be easily bent to the ground. Under such a branch you need to dig a furrow about 10 cm, bend it down and put the branch in the furrow so that it protrudes 20-30 cm. The middle part needs to be fixed in the ground. Fill the furrow and water it. And in the fall, you can dig up and plant in a permanent place a seedling that will be obtained in this way. Moreover, the seedling will already have excellent roots and several branches.

Diseases

Black and red currants that are not cared for correctly (or if the bush has poor heredity) may have the following diseases:

the leaves dry out and fall off, this is due to the fact that brown spots with tubercles have appeared on them;
spots on the leaves, round or angular, brown, lighten in the process, and the berries may become infected;
pillows with fungal spores, yellowish in color;
currants do not bear fruit, lose their aroma, double flowers appear;
Brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes the wood suffers and mold appears;
Small yellow spots appear on the top of the leaf, and growths with spores in the form of yellow-orange hairs appear on the bottom;
the bark cracks, the branches dry out, elasticity is lost;
a pattern around the yellow veins is visible;
a velvet-like coating appears, then a film forms brown;
branches and shoots dry out.

Diseases cannot always be cured. Especially if they are running. It is better to avoid them and take full care of currants.

Pests

Currants have many pests. You can fight them only when they appear on the bush. There are a lot of resources for this. You can also use recipes from the people. It is quite possible to avoid the appearance of pests on the bush. Simply carry out preventative measures and treat the bushes in the fall, spring and before the onset of cold weather. And then, perhaps, pests will bypass you.

Varieties

Currant varieties are divided into early, middle and late; they differ in the color of the berries and the time of their ripening.

Increasingly, gardeners are attracted new look, such as golden currant. Its attractiveness lies in its decorativeness and unusualness.

Currants (lat. Ribes) belong to the genus of the Gooseberry family, which has about 200 species of plants. Currant bushes first appeared in the 11th century in the monastery gardens of Rus', and only later they learned about it in Europe, where it gained enormous popularity. In our country, currants are one of the most beloved and widespread berries, which are grown by summer residents and gardeners on their plots. We especially love black currants, which are the healthiest and delicious berry from all other types of currants. It is consumed both fresh and in compotes, jellies, and for future use: it is frozen and made into jam, and also used to make wine, liqueurs, and aromatic liqueurs. In addition to black currants, red and white currants, rich in vitamins and microelements, are no less popular. Except beneficial properties berries, the aromatic leaves of currants, which are used for preservation and for brewing tea, are also healing. Currant leaves are rich in vitamin C and are used to prevent colds.

The currant bush is a perennial spreading plant with straight, elongated shoots, reaching a height of about 2 meters. Currant root is powerful, strong, up to 60 cm in length. Currant leaves can be elongated or round shape serrated, alternate, consisting of 3-5 lobes. The color of the leaves ranges from light to dark green shades. Currants bloom with white, yellow, red or pink bell-shaped flowers, collected in drooping inflorescences - brushes. One flower brush can contain from 5 to several dozen flowers. The flowering time of the shrub is mid-spring and depending on the region, its flowering time lasts until June.

Currant fruits are round or oval-shaped berries with a sour or sweet-sour taste and pleasant aroma. There are types of currants that have a fresh and weak taste and aroma. The color range of currant berries is varied; they can be white, golden, red, inky black, matte, glossy, or waxy.

Types of currants and the most popular varieties

There is a huge variety of types of currants, the most common of them are:

Black currant (lat. Ribes nigrum) is the most widespread culture throughout Europe, Russia, as well as Kazakhstan and Mongolia. It can be found in almost every garden or personal plot, black currant is also common in wildlife, where it grows in forests, meadows on the banks of reservoirs. The height of the black currant bush is from 1 to 2 meters. Young shoots of the bush are light green in color with an edge, while adults are brown tint. The flowering period of the bush is May-June, the time of fruit ripening is mid-summer. The fruits are black in color, aromatic and sweet and sour in taste.

The most famous varieties of black currant:

Ariadne. Winter-hardy, high-yielding and resistant to many diseases variety, with medium ripening of berries.
Belarusian sweet. Winter-hardy variety with high yield.
Gross. An early winter-hardy variety with high yield.
Venus. High-yielding early variety with a sweetish taste of berries
Gulliver. A variety resistant to drought and frost with an average ripening period.
Pearl.Early variety with large spherical fruits with a sweet taste.
Sofievskaya. An early variety with oval-shaped berries with a sweet and sour taste, a high-yielding variety.
Bagheera. Winter-hardy variety with high yield. Fruits with thin glossy skin, the taste of the berries is sweet.

Red currant (common, garden currant) (lat. Ribes rubrum) a fairly common type of currant, growing in Russia, Europe and Asia. The height of the bush is from 1 to 2 meters with shoots of sandy or gray shades. The bush blooms in May, ripens in mid-June. Red currant berries hang from the shoots in large clusters with bright red berries ranging from 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter with a distinct sour taste.

The most famous varieties of red currants:

Darnitsa. High yielding, medium grade. Its distinctive ability is that the variety tolerates transportation well.
Enchantress. A high-yielding variety with large berries with a sweet and sour taste.
Ural beauty. Large-fruited variety with high yield.
Valentinovka. Late variety with large berries.

White currant(lat. Ribes niveum) distributed in Europe and Asia, the height of the bush is from 1 to 1.5 meters. It blooms in May, fruiting period is June. Sweet and sour berries of white color with a yellowish tint are collected in clusters. The diameter of the fruit is from 0.6 to 1 cm.

The most famous varieties of white currants:

White fairy. A variety with sweet and sour berries of a white, transparent color and early ripening.
Dessert. Large-fruited cream-colored variety.
Belyan. Mid-season variety with sweet-tasting berries, high yield and resistance to various diseases. The fruit size is medium, the color is transparent yellow.
Primus. Winter-hardy variety with sweet, juicy yellow berries.

The main differences between black, red and white currants

Blackcurrant leaves and shoots, due to their high content essential oils, have a fragrant aroma. The above-ground parts of white and red currants do not have the same aroma.
Red and white currants are more watery and sour in taste than black currants.
Black currants contain 4 times more vitamin C than red or white currants
Black currants are propagated mainly by cuttings, while red and white currants are propagated by dividing the bush.
Red and white currants tolerate drought more easily than black currants.
Blackcurrant varieties are more resistant to pests and are less susceptible to diseases.
There is no need to replant red and white currants; the bush can bear fruit in one place for 15-20 years. The blackcurrant bush needs to be replanted after 6-7 years, as well as regular pruning to form a bush.

Planting currants

Choosing a landing site

Currants grow well and bear fruit on a flat area or on a small hillock protected from strong wind, dry wind is especially dangerous for currants. Currants grow best in fertile, moist soils that drain water well. Areas with groundwater, as well as swampy places. The shrub is sensitive to soil acidity. The lower it is, the more susceptible the currant is to diseases and poor yields. Currants prefer well-lit areas, however, they also grow well in the partial shade of fruit trees.

Autumn planting of currants

Gardeners recommend planting currants in the fall; this planting allows the seedlings to gain strength for growth and take root before spring. A few weeks before planting, seedlings are prepared planting pits to allow the soil to settle. Holes for planting shrubs are dug approximately 0.5 by 0.5 meters, up to 45 cm deep. It is necessary to maintain a distance between the holes of approximately 1.5-2 meters. Fertilizers are added to the pit:

a bucket of humus;
100 grams of superphosphate;
45 grams of potassium chloride.

To avoid burns to the roots, sprinkle the fertilizer on top with a small layer of soil (7-9 cm). A special feature of planting currant seedlings is planting at an angle of 45 degrees, so that the root collar is buried 5 cm so that additional shoots begin to grow. The roots must be well straightened, sprinkled with soil, compacted and watered with water (0.5 buckets of water), then fill the hole with soil. After planting the seedling, you need to make a furrow around the bush and pour water into it, and then mulch it with humus. Seedlings should be shortened, leaving 3-5 buds on each shoot.

Spring planting of currants

Seedlings can be planted in pre-prepared holes in the fall. early spring as soon as the snow melts. Planting shrubs is carried out according to the same scheme as autumn planting.

Currant propagation

Currant bushes can be propagated in the following ways:

dividing the bush;
cuttings;
layering.

Currants: propagation by dividing the bush

The method of propagating currants by dividing the bush is practically not used by gardeners. Dividing the bush is used when there is a shortage planting material, forced transplantation of a bush to a new place or for breeding valuable varieties of currants. The main advantage this method reproduction is the rapid rooting of the transplanted shrub.

Stages of work:

Transplantation is carried out in autumn or early spring. The currant bush is carefully dug out of the ground, trying not to damage the root. Young shoots are shortened with pruning shears to a height of 25-30 cm, and dry branches are cut out.
Using a sharp ax, it is necessary to divide the bush into several parts so that the divided parts of the bush have a healthy branched root and formed buds on the shoots.
For transplantation, it is necessary to prepare in advance holes 60-80 cm deep, fertilized with manure, into which the divided currant bush is transplanted. The roots should be carefully straightened and covered with soil. The soil around the bush is thoroughly compacted and watered, at least 1-1.5 buckets for each bush.

Propagation of currants by cuttings

Propagation of currants by cuttings is the most common and productive method for propagating the required currant variety, which allows you to preserve all the valuable characteristics of the variety. Cuttings can be done at any time of the year: in spring, autumn, when woody shoots are used, and also in summer - with green currant cuttings. The cuttings are planted in a previously prepared place; compost and organic matter - rotted manure - must be added to the soil.

Currant cuttings in spring or autumn

Healthy woody shoots are selected for cuttings. The shoot is trimmed from 16 to 25 cm long. The upper cut of the cutting is made above the bud, 1-1.5 cm away from the top, and the lower cut is made at an angle under the bud. Before planting the cuttings, the soil must be mulched with humus or peat and watered well. The cuttings must be buried in the ground at an angle, leaving 2-3 buds on the surface for the growth of young shoots. At spring planting, the cuttings take root very quickly, and in the fall the bush can be transplanted to the designated place. If propagation by cuttings was carried out in the fall, then before the onset of the first frost the cuttings must be covered with straw, leaves or spruce branches. It is worth considering that autumn planting of black currants is carried out in September-October, when the plant enters the dormant phase, and the red currant bush - at the end of August.

Summer cuttings of currants

Currants can be propagated by green cuttings. Suitable for cutting are flexible green branches that become lignified and do not break when bent. The cutting height should be 10-12 cm with 3-5 pairs of leaves, lower leaves shortened by half or removed, leaving the petioles. The lower end of the cutting must be immersed in a solution of a growth stimulator for a day, and then planted in the ground, deepening it 2-3 cm, creating a greenhouse for it. The main factor for successful rooting of cuttings is the high humidity of the greenhouse for 3 weeks, so green cuttings must be regularly watered and sprayed. Within a month, when the cutting takes root, it needs to be fed with fertilizer containing nitrogen and watering reduced. In spring, rooted bushes can be transplanted to a permanent location.

Reproduction of currants by layering

Simple and in an efficient way Reproduction of currants is propagation by layering, which is carried out in the spring, before the bush begins to flower. This propagation method is especially suitable for red currants. Near the bush, grooves with a depth of 5 to 7 cm are prepared into which the lower healthy shoots of an adult bush are placed; they must be shortened by a third. The shoots are pinned to the ground with wire; the shoots are not covered with earth. As soon as the selected shoots take root and produce several young shoots 12-15 cm long, they are carefully sprinkled with moistened soil mixed with peat, leaving green tops above the ground. By autumn, the cuttings are ready to be transplanted to a permanent place; they are dug up and cut off from the mother branch.

Currant care

Caring for a currant bush involves pruning and regularly loosening and removing weeds near the bush, as well as watering, especially in dry weather.

Trimming

The currant bush needs rejuvenation, which is carried out by removing old, poorly fruiting or damaged shoots. Pruning is done in early spring after the bush has overwintered or in the fall.

Fertilizing currants with fertilizers

Shrubs need fertilizing with fertilizer. When planting currants in fertilized soil, additional fertilizing does not need to be done in the first 2-3 years; it is enough to just mulch the bush in the fall. After 2-3 years, mineral fertilizers are applied in dry form in the fall, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used for feeding (30 grams per bush), and in the spring, Urea and ammonium nitrate are added in diluted form (20-25 grams per bush).
During currant flowering, the bush is fertilized organic fertilizer: mullein or bird droppings. To improve productivity, spray the bush with “Ovary” or a solution of zinc sulfate.

Currant bushes require some care different periods season.

How to care for currants in spring:

trim old, damaged branches after wintering;
carry out preventive treatment of shrubs against pests or diseases in early spring;
It is necessary to remove the buds that are affected by the mite. If a large number of buds on a branch are damaged, it should be removed;
the bush needs mulching with manure or humus;
currants require abundant watering during the period of active growth and flowering;
it is necessary to regularly remove weeds and loosen the soil under the bushes;
feed the bush with nitrogen fertilizer.

In dry summers, currants need abundant watering, which is combined with organic fertilizers during flowering.

The soil around the bush should be clean and loose, so periodically it needs to be hilled up and weeds removed. Loosening and watering of currants continues after harvesting. At the end of September, the bush needs to be fed with organic and mineral fertilizers and make trimming. At this time, the currants are transplanted or propagated.

Harvesting is a labor-intensive and important moment in caring for currants. Harvesting should not be delayed, as ripe berries may fall off and their taste may deteriorate. Black currant berries are collected selectively as they ripen, and red and white ones are harvested with brushes.

Currant diseases and pests

Currant anthracnose - this disease affects leaves that begin to turn brown and dry out. Leaves affected by the fungus must be removed and burned, and the bush should be treated with beard liquid at the rate of 10 liters of water - 100 grams, or copper sulfate(per 10 liters of water – 40 grams).

Currant terry (reversion). Black currants are susceptible to this disease; it is transmitted by aphids and mites during the formation of clusters. Currant flowers become double, become small, and the leaves become deformed. To prevent the disease, the bushes must be treated with insecticides and fungicides, protecting the currants from pests.
Striped mosaic – viral disease, transmitted by mites and aphids, in which currant leaves acquire a bright yellow pattern in the form of large veins. The disease cannot be treated; it can only be prevented by treating the bushes with insecticides and fungicides.
Powdery mildew affects leaves and stems, which become covered with a white powdery coating. The affected areas should be removed and the bush should be treated with Topaz and copper sulfate (300 grams per 10 liters of water).

White spot (septoria) when the disease occurs, the leaves become covered with brown spots, which over time acquire a white tint; the leaves are treated with beard liquid.

Among the main pests of currants are:

Aphid. It appears on the leaves and stems of the plant; to remove it, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of karbofos.

The currant glass beetle, a butterfly caterpillar, feeds on currant branches from the inside, as a result the shoots dry out and die. To prevent the spread of glass, a mixture is added under the currant bush, which includes ash, tobacco, mustard and hot pepper (0.5 cups each). The shrub can be treated with Intavir, Iskra or Fitoferm.

Currant leaf gall midge eats young leaves; currant branches need a solution of chlorophos (20 grams) and karbofos (30 grams) per 10 liters of water.

Thanks to proper care The currant bush produces high yields and is most resistant to pests and diseases. The very next year after planting the bush, it begins to bear fruit and delight the eye with beautiful clusters of appetizing, aromatic berries in black, red or white.

Currants, photo

Of all the varieties of currants, black currants are considered the most healthy and aromatic. But in order for the plant to flourish and delight you with a good harvest, it is important to follow simple rules of care and know little tricks when planting it. Below we will talk in detail about where, how and when it is best to plant blackcurrant seedlings, as well as about the features of pruning and fertilizing this berry bush.

What to consider when landing?

Planting black currants is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right time and place for planting, as well as prepare the soil. First, let's discuss the features of the soil that is optimal for black currants.

Priming

Loamy soils are ideal for currants. It grows poorly in acidic and swampy areas, so additional ones will be required there. preparatory work. To reduce acidity, you must first add slaked lime or wood ash to the ground when digging in spring or autumn.

Lighting

In order for the bush to bear fruit well and the berries to be ripe and sweet, the plant needs a lot of sun. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, you should give preference to well-lit areas of the garden.

Distance

Currants tend to grow into large and wide bushes, and this is good, because the larger the bush, the more berries it contains. Large bushes usually have a well-branched root system, which means they need sufficient distance between plants. It is recommended to plant them in rows, with a distance between them of at least 1.8 meters, and between bushes in a row - at least 70 centimeters. Then the plants will have enough space and nutrients.

Pre-fertilizer

Fertilizer can be applied both in the fall, when preparing the site, and immediately before planting currants. In the second case, it is better to do this one to one and a half weeks in advance, so that minerals managed to soak into the soil and did not burn the roots of the plant. In the most urgent case, fertilizer can be applied a couple of days before planting and mixed well with the substrate. It is risky to place fertilizer directly into the holes, as it can seriously damage the roots.

Fertilizers can be either organic (humus, manure, chicken droppings) or mineral - complex or containing one of the necessary minerals, such as phosphorus, potassium or nitrogen.

Disembarkation time

Most favorable time for planting - late autumn, about two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather. Usually, black currants are planted in the fall in late October - early November.

When planting in spring, it is important not to miss the right moment - currants are one of the first to bloom, so they need to be planted as early as possible.

Planting: a step-by-step guide

The first thing we do is form a hole in the selected place in the soil that has been dug up and cleared of weeds. To do this, you need to dig a hole up to half a meter deep and the width corresponding to the size of the root system. If you decide to apply fertilizer to the hole itself, then do it and wait another week. When planting in spring, you need to start preparing the hole in the fall.

Now you can start planting. It is important that the roots of the plant are kept moist before and during planting. It is best to put the roots in water 2-3 hours before planting so that they are saturated with water.

It doesn’t matter whether you plant a thin twig or a small bush, you need to do it at an angle. Place the plant in the hole somewhere at an angle of 60 degrees, so that the three lower buds end up in the ground. This planting will help the bush become wider and produce more shoots.

Having sprinkled the roots with soil, you need to lightly compact them (but not compact them!) top layer soil and water the bush generously. The above-ground part of the shoot must be cut off, leaving only the three lower buds. This pruning will prevent premature aging of the bush.

Above we discussed how blackcurrant seedlings are planted . But there is another way to propagate this plant - by cuttings.

To do this, we will need cuttings with three to four buds, 18-20 cm long. They need to be cut in spring or autumn.

Then they are planted in prepared and weed-free soil, with a distance of 12-15 centimeters between them. Only one bud is left above the ground. Planting blackcurrant cuttings is a common way to propagate the plant.

Currant care

It’s not enough to plant correctly black currant, because without proper care, even the strongest plant can die. That's why it's not only important correct landing, but also care.

Watering

Currants love moisture, so timely watering is the basis for the prosperity of the bush on your site. Watering is especially important when the berries are ripening - then they will be large and juicy. Otherwise, even if abundant flowering you can get shriveled, small and sour berries.
True, it is also important to observe moderation here - too much watering on loamy soils can lead to rotting of the roots.

Loosening and mulching

Loosening is no less important. By keeping the top layer of soil loose, you ensure that the plant's roots receive enough oxygen. It is also good to remove weeds.

Mulching (covering) the top layer of soil will retain as much moisture as possible and prevent weeds from germinating. You can use hay, newspapers, chopped weed tops, tomatoes, fallen leaves, etc. as mulch. Do not use foliage with walnut And pine sawdust, as they can worsen the properties of the soil. When using newspapers as mulch, you need to remember that during flowering they need to be removed, because during this period insects beneficial to the plant come to the surface.

Fertilizer

Black currants need to be fed not only in spring, but also in important stages seasonal life of the plant: flowering and formation of berries. You can use chicken manure, ash or ash dissolved in water as a feed. complex fertilizer in granules. When using the latter, it is better to cover the granules with a layer of soil or mulch.

Trimming

It is best to prune bushes in late fall or early spring. This achieves three important goals - thinning the bush, rejuvenation and removal of diseased shoots.

Thinning will allow you to keep the bush not thickened, provide good access to sunlight to all shoots, and therefore better ripening of the berries. To do this, about 20 percent of the shoots are removed from the middle of the bush. The need for thinning can be easily determined visually.

Rejuvenation of the bush is carried out by removing old branches. This frees up space for young shoots and the plant bears fruit longer and more efficiently.

By removing diseased shoots, you prevent infection of nearby healthy ones, and thus improve the health of the bush. Most often, diseased shoots are also easy to identify by their appearance. You can notice them even during flowering and fruiting. If there were almost no flowers and berries on the shoot, then most likely it is sick and you can safely remove it.