A bedside table on wheels with several drawers will find a place in both the office and the children's room. It can always be removed under desk, roll it up to the bed or chair, using it as a bedside table or an additional shelf for books and papers.
The manufacture of the drawers themselves was discussed in detail earlier in another article. Now you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the cabinet itself, but you will have to start by preparing for the installation of decorative furniture facades, which will give the finished cabinet a beautiful and neat appearance. appearance.
As a rule, we evaluate the quality and appearance of a piece of furniture by its front parts, that is, furniture facades. Proper preparation and installation of facades is the key to creating truly beautiful furniture, which will serve its owners for a long time.
To install furniture facades with your own hands, you will need increased care and attention. In the case, for example, with a drawer cover, you need to make preliminary preparation, quite painstaking and accurate. It is enough to make a mistake of a millimeter or two when marking and the furniture façade can be irrevocably damaged. It is also worth paying attention to the order and cleanliness of the workbench - metal shavings, nails and screws scattered in disarray can lead to scratches on the front part furniture facade, which can significantly spoil the appearance of the drawer lining and the finished product as a whole.
DIY furniture facades: materials and tools
- drawer cover;
- pen;
- drill with drills;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- screwdriver.
Installing a Handle on a Drawer Trim
We select a handle for installation and measure the center-to-center distance of its fastenings. It can vary, but the most common sizes are 96 mm and 128 mm. The center distance is transferred to the pad so that the handle is located in the middle.
The calculation can be done as follows. For example, the width of the drawer lining is 396 mm, and the center distance at the handle is 96 mm. Therefore, the parts need to be set aside from the edges - 396-96/2 = 150 mm. A distance is set from the top of the overlay that is most suitable for the design of the future furniture.
After marking, be sure to check the correctness of your calculations. This can be done most accurately by applying the pen itself to the marking. If the holes on the handle match the markings, everything is correct. If not, then the procedure will have to be repeated.
If everything is correct and the markings coincide with the center distance of the handle, be sure to make a notch on the trim with a core before you start drilling holes. This is necessary to ensure that the drill does not move from the marking point.
For work, choose a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. The drill must be held strictly perpendicular to the part. If this condition is not met, the hole will move and the mounting bolt will go through with a bias.
On the back side of the drawer lining, it is necessary to make a recess in the part so that the head of the fastening bolt disappears into the body of the part and does not interfere with the installation of the drawer lining. The diameter of the drill or carpenter's pen used for this is 12 mm.
Screw on the handle. If the length of the fastening bolt is longer than necessary for reliable fastening (this may arise during the previous operation), the bolt must be carefully trimmed by 4 - 5 mm, and then secure the handle to the drawer cover.
This is what the drawer cover with the handle attached should look like (top view).
Making a mobile bedside table
If all the facades have got comfortable handles, it’s time to make the retractable cabinet itself.
Structurally, the cabinet itself consists of 5 parts: two sidewalls (left and right), a bottom, a lid and a back wall. The optimal ergonomic dimensions of a mobile stationery bedside table are 400 mm in depth and width and 600 mm in height (without the height of the rollers). This cabinet is guaranteed to fit under a standard height desk.
It is better to make the width of the part 380 mm, in order to assembled form, the roof of the nightstand overlapped the drawer linings. The dimensions of the bottom, respectively, will be 380x400 mm. The back wall of the mobile cabinet is made of chipboard and its size, in our case, is 568 mm in height and 400-32 = 368 mm in width.
The dimensions of the drawer linings are calculated separately. Taking into account the technological gaps, the linings are made 4 mm smaller than the opening (in our case, 400-4 = 396 mm).
The height of the overlays is calculated as follows. The height of the total opening (600-16=584 mm), minus technological gaps, is divided by the number of drawers. Our cabinet has 3 drawers, the technological gap for each of them will be 4 mm. Thus, the height of the overlay is 584-12/3=190 mm (in in this case rounding down was applied, since this millimeter can be painlessly added to the technological gap between the trim and the roof).
We mark the sidewalls. Using a tape measure and a pencil, we draw stripes for fastening the guides. For the first guide - at a height of 2 mm from the bottom of the sidewall. For the second - 190 mm (overlay height), for the third - 190+190=380 mm.
We fasten the drawer guides with 3.5×16 or 4×16 mm self-tapping screws. When attaching the guide, you should retreat 1-2 mm inward from the front part.
To further secure the lid, we screw furniture plastic corners into the upper part of the sides.
We screw the rollers to the bottom of the bedside table, having previously marked them so that they are at the same distance from the front parts of the part, but do not protrude beyond its edges. It is better to use rubber rollers, swivel, with bearings that can withstand loads of up to 40 kg. Each roller is secured with 4 self-tapping screws.
The bottom of the cabinet prepared in this way is attached to the sides and to the back wall of the cabinet using confirmations. Alternately, a hole is drilled with a confirmat drill, and the confirmat is screwed into them.
We insert the first box and apply it to it decorative overlay. The lining, set taking into account all the required clearances and tolerances, is tightly pulled to the box with clamps.
The cover is attached from the inside of the drawer with 4 screws 3.5x30 mm.
For simplicity, the next overlay is installed through spacers (I use fiberboard scraps). The fastening algorithm is similar to fastening the first pad. The last overlay is installed in the same way. It must be fastened carefully, so that the screw head is completely hidden inside the chipboard panel.
The final stage - fasten with plastic corners the roof of the nightstand. The mobile stationery bedside table with drawers is ready.
Making any furniture, either , hallway– always begins with creation drawing, sketch or project. Call it whatever you want, the main essence still remains the same. Draw a blueprint for the future can anyone, even the most novice master, who has basic knowledge of descriptive geometry and arithmetic and has the ability to hand blank paper, a simple pencil, a ruler and an eraser.
Professional furniture designers approach this matter, more seriously armed with a computer and special software. The advantages of this method are obvious:
- minimizing the likelihood of possible errors.
- a complete representation of the appearance of future furniture in 3D.
- accurate calculation of the amount of consumable materials and project estimates.
- obtaining all drawings for future assembly
But if you are not going to engage in the production of cabinet furniture professionally, but, say, you want to assemble a wardrobe, kitchen or hallway with your own hands, for yourself or your relatives, then you have absolutely no need to buy expensive programs, spend weeks and nerves on to master them and, ultimately, get the long-awaited drawing.
To do this, we will need all the items listed at the beginning of the article. Let's add another calculator for those who are bad at arithmetic and, of course, be patient.
Let's look at how to create your own furniture projects using a simple bedside table as an example. If, after thoughtfully reading this article, you can calculate the bedside table yourself, then, I dare to assure you, you will be able to design any cabinet furniture, be it a kitchen, a wardrobe or a hallway (You just have to order.). By the word project we mean not just a sketch or drawing, but also the detailing of the product, without which it is absolutely impossible. So, let's draw a nightstand:
Let's set conditional dimensions and show them in the drawing. Let the height of our bedside table be 800 mm; width 400 mm and depth 500 mm.
In order to calculate the detailing of this product, you need to know several basic dimensions, namely: the thickness of the chipboard panels, the thickness of the countertop and the distance required to attach the drawer pull-out system. Depending on what materials will be used, these dimensions may vary. For example, the thickness of a chipboard board can be 16 mm, 18 mm and 22 mm.
In our bedside table we will use traditional chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm, a traditional tabletop with a thickness of 28 mm and traditional roller guides that add 13 mm to the width of the drawer on each side (therefore, 26 mm on both sides). By the way, if you use telescopic drawer systems, the size of 26 mm remains valid. Take my word for it - these three sizes are fundamental when creating ANY furniture project, so I recommend just keeping them in your head.
To simplify the calculations, it would be better to draw the product without facades, drawers and tabletops, so that all frame elements are clearly visible, as shown in the figure below. It is worth noting that it is better to show the product in isometry and draw the thickness of the panels and the principle of their joining as shown in the drawing.
Please note that now the height of the bedside table is no longer 800 mm, but 772 mm because we took the thickness of the tabletop equal to 28 mm.
Now we need to calculate the dimensions of all the frame parts, which in our case will be made of 16 mm thick chipboard. Let's start with the side pillars. Their dimensions are visible in the drawing 772*500-2 pcs. I think you guessed that 2 pcs. this is the number of parts. I would like to note that if you are dealing with a textured material (simulating wood texture), then the sequence in specifying the dimensions is important. The first size is ALWAYS indicated along the texture, the second is ALWAYS across the texture. If the material has no texture, then the sequence is not important. So far everything is clear, so let’s move on.
Let's calculate the base of the bedside table. To do this, we will set the height of the bottom from the bottom edge of the product, as well as the distance of the middle shelf from the top bar. Let our first size be 100 mm, and the second 150 mm. Like all the dimensions of our bedside table, we also set these arbitrarily. Now let's show these dimensions in our drawing:
The height of the base of the bedside table, as can now be seen from the drawing, is 100 mm, and we find the width by subtracting the thickness of the two racks from 400, i.e. 32 mm (16+16=32). We get 368 mm. So, our base is 100*368-1 piece.
Next, let's calculate the shelf and bottom. The length of the shelves is the same as the width of the base 368 mm, and the depth is equal to the depth of the entire structure, i.e. 500 mm. We get - shelf and bottom: 368 * 500 - 2 pcs. It is worth noting that when calculating the shelves of the cabinet with MDF facade Under glass, the depth of the shelves must be made 10–15 mm smaller than the body, so that when the door is closed, the overlay glass does not rest against the shelf.
And finally, the last details of the frame of our bedside table are the top strips, to which the tabletop will be attached through holes with screws. Of course, it was possible to put a whole panel in place of the slats, but in order to save material, we will not allow ourselves this.
The length of the strip is calculated in the same way as the length of the shelf, bottom and width of the base and is equal in our case to 368 mm. We will set the width of the bar ourselves. We will have it 80 mm (this is quite enough). We get 368*80 - 2 pcs.
Next we will calculate the details of the box. To do this, it is not at all necessary to draw a box on the drawing, but in our case I will do this for clarity (for more details on how drawers are calculated for telescopic guides, see).
The length of the side of the drawer is ALWAYS equal to the length of the guide and equal to or less than the depth of the body of the entire structure. In our case, 450 mm. To calculate the drawers, you need to know that the guides come in lengths of 250 mm, 300 mm, 350 mm. etc. up to 600 mm. Telescopic guides can also be 700 mm and 800 mm. As you can see, all the numbers are round, which greatly simplifies the calculations. The height of the side of the drawer is ALWAYS equal to the height of the back and front walls and is calculated based on the specified size between top bar and a shelf. In our case it is 150 mm. If we want our box to be as deep as possible, we need to set minimum distances between the bottom of the drawer and the shelf it is 10 mm and between the top edge of the drawer and the top bar it is 30 mm. Only 40 mm. We get the height of the side, rear and front walls of the box to be 150-40 = 110 mm.
Next, we calculate the length of the back and front walls of the box. To do this, subtract the thickness of the two side posts by 32 mm from 400 mm, and we get 368 mm. Now from 368 mm we subtract 26 mm (we have kept this size in mind since the beginning of the article) to the guides we get 342 mm. Let's subtract another 32 mm (the thickness of the two sides of the box) and in the end we get 310 mm. So, the dimensions of the parts of our box. Sidewall: 450*110 – 2 pcs; back and front walls of the box: 310*110 – 2 pcs.
Now that we have calculated all the details of the bedside table body, we can begin to calculate the facades. Our product has only two fronts: the front of the drawer and the door of the bedside table. Determining the width of the facades is not at all difficult. To do this, it is necessary to subtract 2 mm from each side from the total width of the structure (and for us it is 400 mm), for a total of 4 mm. We get the width of the facades 400-4=396.
Next, we calculate the height of our door and drawer front. Let's start with the door. Before calculating its height, you need to find out the distance between the bottom and the shelf. We look at the drawing and see that if from the entire height of the structure (772 mm) we subtract three chipboard thicknesses (48 mm), the height of the base (100 mm) and the distance between the shelf and the top strip (150 mm) then we get 772-48-100-150 =474 mm. Let's show this size in our drawing.
Now to this value it is necessary to add 14 mm to the façade overlap at the bottom and 6 mm to the shelf. Please note that whips are different. Why? Our door fits completely to the bottom of the facade, so we retreat from the edge only 2 mm (16-2 = 14), but the door fits only halfway to the shelf, now we retreat 2 mm from the middle of the shelf thickness, i.e. 16:2 =8; 8-2=6. It turns out that the amount of whips on the bottom and shelf is 14+6=20. Now we add these 20 mm to the previously obtained distance of 474 mm between the bottom and the shelf, then we get the height of our door: 474 + 20 = 494 mm. The height of the drawer is calculated in exactly the same way: to the distance between the shelf and the top (bar 150 mm) we add the amount of overlaps (20 mm) and we get the height of the drawer facade: 150 + 20 = 170. So the dimensions of our facades: door 494 * 396 - 1 piece; box 170*396-1 pc.
To make it easier to calculate the width and height of facades, you need to remember three CONSTANT amounts for the lashes.
1) when the façade overlaps on both sides over the entire body wall thickness of 28 mm.
2) when the façade overlaps on one side for the entire thickness, and on the other for half the thickness of the body wall, 20 mm (as in our case).
3) when the facade overlaps on both sides by half the thickness of the body wall of 12 mm.
All three amounts are relevant only for a chipboard thickness of 16 mm.
And the last thing we need to calculate is the size of the back wall, the bottom of the fiberboard box, and the width of the tabletop. Let's look at our drawing again. To calculate the height of the rear wall, subtract the height of the base (100mm) from the height of the case (772mm). And stepping back 2mm on each side, we get: 772-100-2-2=688mm. The width of the rear wall is the width of the entire structure (400mm) with 2mm indentations on each side. We get 400-2-2=396mm. So, the size of the back wall of our bedside table: 688*396-1 piece. The bottom of the box is calculated based on the dimensions of the perimeter of the box. The length of the bottom is equal to the length of the side wall of the box, i.e. 450mm, and the width is equal to the length of the front wall plus the double thickness of the side of the box, namely 310+16+16=342mm. We received the size of the box bottom part: 450*342-1 piece.
And finally, the width of the tabletop is equal to the width of the entire structure, namely 400 mm. You can set the tabletop depth yourself or use the standard 600mm.
As a result, we received a drawing of a bedside table with detailed details:
- 772*500-2 pcs. racks
- 100*368 - 1 pc. plinth
- 368*500-2 pcs. shelf and bottom
- 368* 80-2 pcs. top bars
- 450*110-2 pcs. drawer side
- 310*110-2 pcs. front and back walls of the box
- 494*396-1 pc. door
- 170*396-1 pc. box
- 688*396-1 pc. back wall
- 450*342-1 pc. bottom of the drawer
table top
- 400*600-1 pc.
Now all you have to do is choose and order it. Remember, high-quality cutting of chipboard will help you avoid problems when assembling the product you designed.
Successful work!
Source – http://mebel-id.com
Today we will show you how to use MDF boards and mosaics to make an attractive vanity unit that can be installed in the bathroom or kitchen.
For this you will need the following materials:
- universal glue (latex based), it is moisture resistant;
First you need to make a template from a piece of paper. To make it easier, place the shell on paper and trace its outline.
Using a paper sample on the plate the right size apply markings. Then, using a drill, drill four holes. They are necessary in order to cut an opening under the sink with a jigsaw.
For reliability, it is better to use two MDF boards.
Before installing them together with the sink in place, it is necessary to make a hole in the cabinet for communications. Now you can install the finished surface using corner fastenings and self-tapping screws. This part of the work can be entrusted to men, but the next stage can be done by women.
All that remains is to glue the surface mosaic tiles. Apply it in small sections, as the glue hardens quickly (10-15 minutes).
A few more touches.
And this is what the mosaic looks like after grouting.
Reference
MDF boards are made from finely dispersed wood shavings by dry pressing at high temperature and pressure. They are distinguished by the fact that during the production process they are given special properties, such as water resistance, biostability and fire resistance.
Fiberboards began to be produced in America in 1966. In 1997, the production process was established in Russia. But the main global producer at present is, of course, China.
MDF boards are an inexpensive and easily processed material. They have a homogeneous structure that lends itself well to processing, which is why they are recommended to be used in the manufacture of elements for bathrooms and kitchens.
- Advice from furniture makers on making a sink cabinet with your own hands
- How to make a sink cabinet with your own hands
Usually sold in stores ready-made kits– a sink and a cabinet underneath. However, not everyone has the money for such a kit. Some people buy a used sink, but in very good condition and at a low price. In this case, choosing a cabinet in the store that is suitable for the sink is very difficult - and often impossible. Therefore, the only way out of the situation is to make a cabinet under the sink with your own hands. And we will help with this.
Advice from furniture makers on making a sink cabinet with your own hands
Tip #1
The vanity cabinet can be made from furniture panels. They are good because they have already been treated with a protective agent, so they will not deteriorate from moisture, provided that they are not watered generously. In addition, if you don’t have a sawing tool at home, you can order cutting at the same place where you bought the panels. It's inexpensive and often free if you buy a lot of material.
You can also make a cabinet under the sink from plasterboard. Subsequently, it will need to be covered with tiles. Usually such cabinets are made in the bathroom.
However, it is difficult to make a plasterboard cabinet with your own hands.
How to make a vanity cabinet with your own hands?
Or rather, even an inexperienced person can assemble it, but to cover it with tiles... here you have to be a real ace, since you will have to join a lot external corners, do figured cut under the sink, etc.
If you decide to make a cabinet from plasterboard, you must first attach the profiles to the wall and floor, and then tie them together. At the same time, do not forget to first calculate the dimensions and decide on the shape of the finished product. After this, cut the drywall to size and attach it to the profile. Then cover it with tiles.
Tip #2
The sink cabinet can be made from any material. The main thing is that it is moisture resistant and looks good existing finishing. For example, let's take a plasterboard cabinet.
In this case:
- if the walls are tiled, then the cabinet should be tiled
- if the walls are finished with plastic, then the cabinet can be sheathed with the same
The frame for the cabinet can be made from metal profiles or wooden beam. In the second case, after attaching the beam, treat it with a hydrophobic coating so that it does not deteriorate from moisture.
How to make a sink cabinet with your own hands
You will need
- Furniture board
- Screwdriver
- Jigsaw
- Hammer
- Drill
- Self-tapping screws
- Wood glue
- Clamps
- Varnish or paint
The process of making a washbasin cabinet with your own hands
You can also additionally make shelves from the same furniture board and attach them. As a result, it will turn out not only beautiful (the plumbing communications will be hidden), but also useful (you can store it there). detergents or something else).
That's all. See you soon.
What and how to make a sink cabinet with your own hands
If you want to make a vanity cabinet for your bathroom yourself, you need to know what criteria it must meet. It is one of the main attributes of the room; it should fit as many things as possible, and its appearance is compact and beautiful. A DIY sink cabinet is an opportunity to stand out among the thousands of options offered by various retail chains.
And today we will help you do this.
How to make a vanity cabinet with your own hands from scrap materials
Types of products
Before proceeding to the main part, we must decide on the type of our future design. The cabinet can be:
- An excellent option when you need to save space, suitable for almost any apartment old layout bathrooms.
- The design frees up floor space and allows for quick cleaning.
- The solution is combined with many styles, including minimalism, hi-tech and eco-design.
- The cabinet creates a practical and comfortable interior. The cost of the project is small.
- One of the most common options.
- The bathroom design simultaneously performs several tasks:
- hides engineering communications;
- is a tabletop;
- place for a sink;
- a closet for a lot of necessary things.
- The cabinet can be used for ergonomic installation of large washing machines.
- Standard dimensions are not suitable for a small bathroom or the dimensions must correspond to the area of the room.
- They have proven themselves well in the bathrooms of houses built in the 50s-80s.
- An ideal option for saving space in a room is corner hanging bedside tables. You can free up space on the floor by placing a laundry basket there.
Do-it-yourself floor-mounted bathroom vanity cabinet
Necessary preparatory work
Before you go to a retail chain for building materials, you should resolve a number of issues. One of them is what will you make? Do you need a spacious, functional under-sink cabinet that can be placed under the sink? household chemicals and other bathroom accessories or is it more decorative decoration premises, for example, to hide unsightly pipes.
DIY kitchen sink cabinet - diagram-drawing
What you need to do before making a drawing diagram of a bathroom cabinet:
- Consider a combination with the interior of the room - for example, for a room in light blue tones with smooth curves and a “soft” design, angular bright orange furniture is not suitable, even if you like this color. Therefore, you should not turn the bedside table into a “spot” on the overall interior.
- Pick up the right materials and accessories. We recommend purchasing the latter from chromed metal, as it will often come into contact with moisture.
- Understand the layout of the bathroom - decide on the placement of furniture, as well as technical issues.
Tip: There is no need to design a bedside table with a plinth if you have heated floors.
- The functionality of the furniture should be entirely determined by your needs. For a large room, it is not necessary to make a small cabinet with a large number of drawers and shelves, although this is also a matter of taste.
Tip: A corner vanity works great in most bathrooms.
- Pay attention to the design of the future furniture; it is advisable that it appeals to you; you will have to meet with your work several times a day.
Do-it-yourself vanity table for the bathroom sink according to individual parameters
Choosing material
Properly selected building materials will be the first step towards durable and reliable design. Don't know what to choose? Conduct an analysis of similar bathroom products in stores.
This can be a starting point for inspiration and interesting design solutions.
Wood
Wooden cabinets are not as popular as, for example, MDF, since the price of natural quality material many times more expensive. If the wood is properly treated, it can last quite a long time. for a long time. The material is resistant to moisture and allows you to create an atmosphere of comfort and coziness in the room.
MDF boards
The most commonly used material for making nightstands for the bathroom or kitchen. It can withstand constant exposure to moisture and lasts quite a long time.
MDF board – pressed under high pressure wood fibers. A special binder added to the structure provides strength and protection from moisture. The material can easily be processed at home.
Plastic
An analogue to natural building materials, suitable for those who decide to save a significant amount. But such products will not have the same luxurious and high-quality appearance as wooden ones, despite a very successful finish.
Plastic is resistant to moisture and can last a long time. Choose it if you decide to focus on practicality. Otherwise, an alternative should be found.
In the photo - choosing the placement of the sink in the bathroom
Glass
Such a cabinet in the bathroom will most likely become a source of pride for you. Although it is not easy to do, it is still possible. You will need strong and thick glass that can withstand the load from the sink, things and shelves inside.
The cost of the material is high and working with it at home will be difficult.
Combined option
You don’t have to limit your idea to just one material, why not combine several of them?
For example, make the side walls from cheap products and install them on top MDF board, completing the structure with glass doors.
You can also do stained glass, wood painting or mosaic. Look for options.
Making a cabinet under the sink
When choosing options for how to make a cabinet under the sink with your own hands, we will focus on a simple, but practical and beautiful - floor design.
Prepare materials and tools for work:
- MDF boards, which will go on the tabletop and back wall, sides, shelves and bottom;
- mosaic tiles;
- electric drill;
- electric jigsaw;
- fasteners - screws, corners;
- paper, you can use old wallpaper;
- moisture-resistant latex glue;
- spatula (notched);
- grout for tiles.
- Make a box without a tabletop by installing fasteners for shelves, also hang the doors on hinges or replace them drawers. In the latter case, you need to take into account that utility lines will run inside the cabinet.
What and how to make a sink cabinet with your own hands
Box without table top
- Drill holes in the back wall or bottom for the pipes.
- Place the structure on its legs. Hanging option will differ only in the method of fixation (to the wall).
- Transfer the dimensions of the sink onto paper on a 1:1 scale. Attach it to the tabletop, trace and cut along the contour.
Place under the sink on the countertop
Place the stove on the cabinet and secure it from the inside using corner fasteners.
- Fill the gap between the sink and the stove with silicone. Connect communications.
- Cover the cabinet with mosaic tiles.
Conclusion
As you understand, the work itself on making a cabinet for a sink is not that difficult; most of all, you will have to spend the most time preparing and choosing the design itself. Try not to deviate from our recommendations, then the result will not disappoint you.
http://gidroguru.com
From steel pipes you can make a durable stand for the washbasin, which will last longer than a wooden one. This stand is especially suitable for a garden.
You can also buy a stand for the washbasin in the store. However, steel structures are practically never found there. Wooden and ceramic sinks are not suitable in some cases. Steel structure can be easily used on summer cottage, in utility rooms and in production.
Advantages and disadvantages of steel sinks
Steel stands for washbasins, being well protected from moisture, can last for a very long time. They endure high temperatures and unfavorable external conditions. For example, such sinks are not subject to destruction under the influence of chemicals. The stand can be made from old pipes, especially if the craftsman does not have any special requirements for the aesthetic component.
You can put equipment under the sink made of steel pipes. During plumbing repairs, this design will not cause any difficulties. Dismantling of such a product is very easy.
The disadvantage of a steel sink is that it most often does not look as beautiful as a ceramic or wooden one. Certainly, skilled craftsman can give it an attractive appearance with additional finishing. Wood, as well as plywood and chipboard, are suitable for finishing the frame. If necessary, steel sheets can also be used.
Inventory and materials
In order to make a sink from steel pipes, you will need:
- pipes cut to the dimensions specified in the drawing;
— welding;
— pipe bender;
- paint and other protective compounds.
Sink installation
The sink is assembled in several stages. First you need to make preliminary measurements according to which you will buy required amount pipes The height of the frame is measured, as well as its dimensions. In order to determine exactly the volume of the stand, the master must have a washbasin on hand that will be installed on the frame.
The height of the frame is determined individually. Usually it is 70 - 85 cm. This optimal height for an adult. If you make the frame lower or higher, then using the washbasin will be inconvenient. The master must also focus on the position of the mixer. It is necessary to take into account that water does not fall on the floor, and the flow from the tap does not create splashes.
After the measurements have been made, it's time to go get the pipes. Pipes can be purchased already cut to the specified dimensions. Suitable for work stainless steel pipes. It is better to make the upper part of the sink solid. That is, the pipe is not cut, but bent using a pipe bender. This will make the frame look much better. After purchasing the pipes, you must first bend the upper part of the frame and weld the legs of the stand to this part.
If you simply weld the legs, but do not connect their lower ends, the stand will be unstable. It may even break from an accidental fall. Therefore, the lower parts of the frame also need to be connected using pipes. Now the roughest work is finished, and you can begin the cosmetic finishing. The seams need to be processed and the stand itself needs to be painted.
If necessary, additional finishing of the structure can be carried out. For example, a master can weld elements for attaching wood sheets to a steel frame. The most economical material there will be chipboard. These sheets are inexpensive and durable.
DIY bath cabinet
Drywall will not work in this case because it is too susceptible to moisture. Steel sheets can be welded to the sink directly onto the frame. We must not forget to make a door and take into account the possibility of access to the pipes.
In production, washbasin stands are usually not given any special finishing, other than painting. In workshop conditions decorative finishing doesn't last long. You can come up with a more attractive washing option for your home.
Box in the bathroom made of plasterboard - necessary 
a need that cannot be avoided.
This is explained by the ability to hide passing sewer risers and tee.
This optimal solution to hide pipes. Pipes can be sewn to match the interior of the room.
Advantages and disadvantages:
- Sufficient rigidity compared to plastic to attach something with low weight to it;
- Variety of box finishes;
- Reducing the noise level by laying sound insulation in the form of mineral wool between the screen and the riser;
- Pipes cause condensation, which can lead to mold and mildew;
- Deformation plasterboard sheets when they interact with moisture. In this regard, plastic is better;
- Lack of access to communications in the event of a possible accident. Therefore, before closing the pipes, they are checked and threaded connections, which are set to a minimum. To access meters or taps, an inspection door must be equipped;
- Unused usable area.
Plastic panels
When installing a modern acrylic bathtub installation of the box is often not required due to the presence of an attractive interior and exterior coating.
If you have a cast iron or steel option, whose appearance is not very pleasant, you can hide the space under the bathtub, solving at the same time the problem of storing various hygiene items.
It is absolutely inexpensive to build a frame for a water-repellent curtain that requires constant washing. 
It will not require large expenses to purchase a ready-made panel, the choice of which varies huge assortment. Therefore, it will be easy to match its color to the bathtub or tile itself.
The disadvantage of this solution is the sale of panels for certain sizes of standard models.
For older cast iron models and sitz baths, purchasing a screen will be impossible.
Decorative box
By creating a structure for the space under the bathroom from plasterboard sheets or chipboard, you can improve it yourself.
But first, a frame is made, which is covered with chipboard, plasterboard or plywood panels. Drywall is most often used. 
Due to the unattractive appearance of its front surface, it is finished with wallpaper or tiles. Sliding design is created using guides with which its frame is equipped.
Basically, they create different-sized screen niches to serve as shelves, which are left either open or covered with glass or plastic.
Plumbing cabinet
A plumbing box in a bathroom or outhouse made of plasterboard is constructed with a separate bathroom. In this way, it is possible to arrange all the plumbing fixtures, and even install them under a wall-hung toilet.
If you have a shared bathroom, it is possible to create a cabinet to hide the water heater, equipping it with additional internal or external shelves. 
For convenient operation It is desirable to construct a wide door, as an inspection hatch, made of metal or plastic, from a wooden sheathing, like roller shutters and an invisible hatch under tiles.
The last option is the most common.
Beautiful and original wooden cabinet under the sink will allow you not only to make your interior design more stylish and colorful, but also to add functionality to the design of the room.
After all, on such a cabinet you can install:
- dishwashing detergents;
- sponge stand;
- if it is large enough, then use it as an additional table for dishes.
However, it is not at all necessary to spend a lot of money on such products, because in the store the price of such models is quite high, but you can easily make them yourself. This article, illustrated with a photo, provides instructions that allow you to understand how to make a cabinet under the sink with your own hands.
Stage one. Preparatory
First of all, before starting work, you should prepare certain materials:
- plasterboard or chipboard;
- fittings, including corners, screws, hinges, door handles;
- surface coating materials– primer, varnish, putty.
The tools you will need are the following:
- ruler or tape measure;
- pencil for marking the surface;
- wood hacksaw or jigsaw, preferably electric;
- screwdrivers different types, depending on screws and other fasteners;
- drill and drill bits of different diameters;
- sandpaper;
- soft brush;
- putty knife.
Determining the dimensions
Once you have prepared everything you need, you can start determining the sizes. It all depends on the dimensions of the sink itself, because you will not use the sink with or without it. The dimensions of the kitchen are also taken into account.
The optimal height of a sink cabinet ranges from 70 cm to 100 cm. But the width can be different. For example, the minimum is 45 cm, exactly the size of the sink, but it can reach 120 cm, which will provide additional space next to it, which will serve as an excellent stand for dishes, food, etc.
After this, sketch out at least a schematic sketch, taking into account that in any case, you will most likely have a wall-mounted sink:
- it is attached with bolts or other fasteners to the wall;
- the cabinet is subsequently placed under it.
Advice. If you want to make something like this design, then consider an option such as a roll-out cabinet, which will allow you to pull it out at any opportunity, and also, if necessary, for example, for cleaning or for access to communications.
If you are making a product from drywall, then draw marks on it in accordance with your drawing, and then cut them out. Twist the individual parts using self-tapping screws. Naturally, you will need spacers.
They can be made from ordinary metal profiles used during installation of this material on the walls. However, a wooden beam, from which the frame is made, will be more reliable and durable. For more reliable installation of drywall, it is recommended to use furniture corners.
We increase aesthetic properties
To do this you will need the materials that have already been mentioned above, or rather:
- sandpaper;
- putty;
- brush.
Advice. In addition, it is necessary to achieve ideal flat surface, and when installing drywall, joints will remain in any case.
They should be sealed with putty, and then, when it dries, do the same procedure with it as with all the drywall.
Sand the entire surface well with sandpaper, using first coarse-grained and then fine-grained sandpaper.
After this, we move on to priming the surface:
- the first layer is made thin;
- wait until it dries and is absorbed;
- after this, apply any tint varnish, the color of which will harmoniously combine with other kitchen furniture;
- for painting with varnish, it is recommended to use a brush with thin, always natural and durable bristles;
- The varnish should be applied in three to four layers, each subsequent one is applied only after the previous one has dried.
Advice. Be sure to make a door.
This will allow you to use the space under the cabinet with maximum benefit, and will also provide access to communications.
Making a door is not difficult if you mark the material correctly.
Secure it on secure hinges.
We briefly described how you can quickly and inexpensively make a sink cabinet.
However, to help you work really well and efficiently, here are some more practical tips.
- When making a bedside table, you can use not only drywall, but also the following materials:
- Thick board;
- Thick, dense plywood;
Advice. When making a bathroom cabinet, professionals recommend using LSDP - this is a special material, the surface of which is protected by a special coating that is resistant to high level humidity.
- To secure the material to a frame made of wooden beams, you can use several types of fasteners:
- galvanized nails;
- screws;
- self-tapping screws
- To cover the surface of a finished cabinet, you can use not only tint varnish, but also paint. As interior experts advise, you should choose calm colors and shades.
To apply paint use:
- brush;
- or a spray bottle.
What if you choose a ready-made bathroom cabinet?
Let's say you decide not to waste time on self-production cabinets under the washbasin in the bathroom, and buy it in the store.
- Dimensions are one of the main parameters:
- First, decide on the place where you will install the bedside table;
- measure the installation location;
- With the data received, go to the store and select a cabinet.
Advice. The best option– order a bedside table in a furniture workshop, where it will be made exactly according to the required parameters.
This will allow you to get a product that exactly meets all your requirements.
- The second indicator by which bathroom cabinets are chosen is the material from which they are made.
The material must be:
- moisture resistant;
- resistant to temperature changes;
- resistant to chemical detergents.
- The third indicator that you should pay attention to is the ease of use of the product.
The optimal cabinet is one that has:
- additional shelves;
- drawers;
- space for a laundry basket.
- The last point you should pay attention to when choosing a bathroom vanity is its appearance.
We are talking about the following:
- the sink and the cabinet itself should be harmoniously combined;
- the entire “ensemble” must fit harmoniously into overall design interior, so you should carefully choose glass or earthenware models, as well as bright, unusual products.
In conclusion
As you can see, a sink cabinet is not such an ordinary product. It is essential not only to increase the level of comfort in the bathroom or kitchen, but also provides a more stylish, harmonious design interior
There is no need to buy a bedside table; you can make one yourself. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
So simple and common object furniture, like a wooden bedside table, is easy to make with your own hands, at home. Even if you do not have the opportunity to saw and plane boards, you can assemble the product from ready-made carpentry panels. Such shields are now sold in specialized stores and construction markets.
Here all the parts are glued together in the workshop, only the fittings are from the store.
The width and depth dimensions are selected for a specific location. The bedroom for which it was made is small. For easy access during cleaning, the cabinet is placed on casters.
According to the design, the sides and tabletop are made of 30 mm thick board. .
More massive parts look more serious. Although 20 mm thick shields can be used in the same way. , or even 16 mm. . True, the appearance will be somewhat different in the end. The product is larger, but of the same type, in the article.
Dimensions of cabinet parts.
Tabletop - width 560 mm. , depth 350 mm. , thickness 30 mm. .
Sidewalls - height 470 mm. , width 340 mm. , thickness 30 mm. , two pieces.
The bottom of the bedside table is 520 mm wide. , depth 340 mm. , thickness 20 mm. .
Rear wall 470/500 mm. , 4 mm thick. , fiberboard material, plywood or MDF.
Dimensions of the finished bedside table: Height 540 mm. , body width 540 mm. ,
depth 340 mm. . Overhangs of the tabletop, from the body along the sides and facade, are 10 mm. ,flush on the back.
Usually for such products the bottom is installed between the sidewalls. Or as for large heavy cabinets under the sides. Here the option is slightly different, the bottom is installed in quarters made at the lower ends of the sidewalls.
Quarters size 20/20 mm. , are being done manual router, or even simpler, on a circular saw with variable saw height. The bottom in the quarter increases the strength of the body; you can sit on such a cabinet calmly. And at the same time, the quarter covers the ends of the lower shelf, which improves the appearance of the product.
We collect the details of the bedside table.
When assembling, we install the bottom in the quarters and tighten it with screws from below.
We place the lid of the bedside table on the upper ends of the sides, with overhangs of 10/10/10 mm. and attract it to the sides using furniture corners. You will need at least 4 corners, maximum six, but this is only if the purchased tabletop is well-maintained.
Since the cabinet is roll-out, the back wall is also placed in a quarter.
After assembling the body, we use a hand router to cut a quarter 4 mm deep along the rear edges. and 10 mm wide. , the depth depends on the thickness of the back wall sheet. We fasten with small nails or self-tapping screws; nails are better here, as they are less noticeable.
We turn the cabinet over and install four rollers on it. The height of the rollers in the photo is 40 mm. , but that's not that important. Any one you choose will do.
Together with the rollers, the total height of the bedside table is 540-545 mm. .
If there is only one bedside table, then a slight change in height does not matter. If there are two bedside tables, then you need to ensure that they are the same size.
Drawers for bedside tables.
The cabinet can accommodate two or three drawers. There are two of them, but they are more spacious and deep. The goal is simple, so that different jars, tubes and bottles can be placed vertically inside the box, standing upright.
The free opening of the cabinet turned out to be 450 mm high. , width 480 mm. .
The height of the walls of the boxes should not be higher than 200 mm. , otherwise it will be difficult to put them in place. Here the height is even less, 190 mm. . The thickness of all parts is 16-20 mm. , bottom made of plywood 4 mm thick.
To install drawers on roller guides, they must be 24-25 mm smaller than the width of the internal opening. .
As a result, we need to assemble boxes with a width of 455 mm. , depth 310 mm. and height 190 mm. .
It is better to install the bottom of the box in the grooves, but if this is not possible, then the bottom part is attached from below with nails or self-tapping screws. A front strip is installed on the front ends of the drawers. In this case, a planed board 20 mm thick is used. , size 447/223 mm. . The facade is attached with self-tapping screws from inside the box frame.
Photos from the site krasno-tal.ru
The color chosen is contrasting, the tabletop and body are dark, wenge-like.
The fronts and frames of the drawers are light, with the natural texture of wood highlighted.
After assembly, we install the drawers on roller guides. About this in the article, assembling and painting a bedside table.
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